Etymology and Ethics terms for sustainability in textiles Dr. Belinda von Mengersen, Australian Catholic University Ethical Fashion? No it’s not an oxymoron… ‘Ethical Fashion? ‘The term sounds like an oxymoron for an industry that sometimes seems to wallow in indulgence and hedonistic nihilism’ O Quote from an article by Matthew Drummond, The Financial Review, 22nd August 2013 Sustainability - how? SLOW + FASHION-an Oxymoron-or a Promise for the Future…? (Clark, 2008) Eco-Chic: The Fashion Paradox (Black, 2011) What is Sustainability? (Farrer, 2011) What are Textile Technology students’ attitudes towards Sustainability? Two contextual questions: ① What does sustainability mean for the Textiles & Fashion Industry? o To consider an industry perspective, roles and initiatives and, then; ① What does sustainability mean for Textiles Technology students? o To consider textile educator’s perspectives and initiatives. Etymology and Ethics There are two significant problems which influence student and societal attitudes towards sustainability in Textiles & Fashion: ① The diversity of Textiles as a field etymology ① The fast-fashion phenomenon and a false value-system for textiles ethics Considering students attitudes towards ‘Sustainability’ in Textiles Technology O Engaging students with the breadth of sustainability issues within Textiles & Fashion o Sub-themes or areas that can be enriched within Textiles Technology programs o Education initiatives (practical projects) o Ethics (empathy) o Domestic or lifestyle choices (owning the problem) What are student attitudes towards ‘Sustainability’ in Textiles? O Sustainable Fashion Education: The Student Perspective http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyBhU2Re LcU#t=0m49s Published on Sep 25, 2013 The video is a dynamic documentary that is continually changed to add new perspectives from around the globe. The project was begun by Dr. Cosette M. Armstrong from Oklahoma State University and Dr. Kirsi Niinimäki in the Spring of 2013. If you have students in a textile and clothing undergraduate program who would like to contribute, please find the contact information at the end of the video. The first key points identified were… What we want to learn… Ubiquity? Sustainability is also a ubiquitous term in Textiles and Fashion… ‘Green Wash’ terms… 'green wash’ terms (Fraser & Farrer, 2012) ‘Green-Wash’ terms… ‘Green wash’ Terms Slow Fashion Ethical Fashion Green Fashion Eco Chic Eco Friendly Textiles Eco Sewing Up Cycling Sustainable Design Green Textiles Re Cycling Eco Design Organic Textiles 'green wash’ terms (Fraser & Farrer, 2012) Etymology ‘…any ‘shift’ in meaning must be explored’ Fraser and Farrer observe that this ambiguity or term misappropriation has led to general misunderstanding within the industry. They propose that consumers are becoming tired of “the cynical smokescreen of fair trade, ethical production and [the proliferation of] ‘greenwash’ [terms]” (Fraser & Farrer, 2012, p. 25). Ethics and Empathy O “In the wake of the tragic Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh, there has been an increasing desire for Australian consumers to know more about how our clothes are produced and how the workers that make them are treated.” (The Australian Fashion Report: the truth behind the barcode, 2013) O “Now, however, economics and environment are being shadowed by the new Zeitgeist of ethics and empathy” (Fraser & Farrer, 2012, p. 32). Recent news reports in Australia of unethical fashion industry practices… O Bangladesh factory disasters ask questions of Australian companies (7.30 Report) O Bangladesh Clothing Disaster – What Can Be Done? (The Wire, Independent News Radio) http://www.2ser.com/component/k2/item/3378bangladesh-clothing-disaster-what-can-be-done O Profits made on the back of child labour: report (SMH) ‘Sustainability’ in Textiles & Fashion: implications and applications Implications Applications O Ecological O Fibre Production O Economic O Yarn Production O Ethical O Fabric Production O Fabric Finishing O Garment Manufacture O The entire Textile Supply Chain The ‘Sustainability’ conversation in Textile & Fashion needs to consider the ‘cradle-to-grave’ model… Textiles & Fashion Waste Disposal Design Supply Chain Management Fibre, Yarn & Fabric Production Apparel & NonApparel Manufacturing Dyeing & Finishing Joan Farrer proposes a model of ‘Remediation’ that must consider three key factors: O Planet O People O Profit Sustainability sub-themes for Textiles Technology: Theoretical Practical Philosophical •Design Theory •Conceptual Design •Sustainable Design •Design for Recylcing (DFR) and disassembly (DFD) •Ecological •Economic •Industry-based •Supply Chain Managent •Domestic skills repair •Transparent sourcing, labelling •Ethics •Empathy •Education •Social / Political awareness •Value/Worth of textiles Waste Patterns O 2.35 million tonnes in the UK total O Approx 40kg per person per year O = 30 kg per person per year of textile landfill O Fletcher, K. (2008) in relation to the UK. O New legislation in Europe in response this excessive waste: “most waste textiles are considered recyclable and fall under the European Union’s Landfill Directive. Recently revised targets mean that all textiles will be banned from landfill by 2015 and will have to be collected separately from other rubbish” (Fletcher, 2008, p. 99). Waste Management Strategies O Design for Recylcing O Reuse, Re-cycling (DFR) and disassembly (DFD) and Zero Waste Re-use of goods Repair and reconditioning of goods Industry Standards Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) practices, including: O Traceability & Transparency O Monitoring & Training O Worker Rights O Labelling O No internationally agreed standards exist O Traceability O ‘Shades of Green’ Conclusion Empower Textiles Technology students to make their own decisions and apply their own knowledge: O provide them with more detailed information and a wider range of resources including case-studies O integrate ethics into the discussion of these casestudies O broaden the range and focus of projects that address aspects of sustainability in the curriculum O encourage them to integrate domestic measures and lifestyle choices based on this knowledge Resources: O Well Dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the United Kingdom O The Australian Fashion Report (The Truth Behind the Barcode) O Evaluating Sustainability of Textiles in Europe – Relevance to the Australian Textile Industry http://baptistworldaid.org.au/assets/Be-FairSection/FashionReport.pdf