Interdisciplinary Journal of Research in Business
Vol. 1, Issue. 4, April 2011(pp.94-100)
A review of influencing factors and constructs on the Iranian women’s Islamic
fashion market
Kambiz Heidarzadeh Hanzaee 1 and Shahrzad Chitsaz 2
Department of Business Management, Science and Research Branch,
Islamic Azad University, Tehran, Iran
ABSTRACT
The purpose of this paper is to clarify factors and constructs influencing the women’s fashion market at legal,
societal, and individual levels in Iran. A clear understanding of legal and societal factors helps fashion marketers to
touch the main roots, social reality and philosophy of hijab dress in this country. On the other hand, individual
variables and constructs can be studied to recognize different generations, classes of society and orders of
religiosity among Iranian women, which will explain their fashion-buying behavior. This conceptual study is based
on some academic papers and professionals’ practical viewpoints about Islamic marketing. In addition, the paper
utilizes necessary religion sources and legal documents. In some parts, authors present their real experiences about
the societal context of Iran. Five legal and societal factors influencing the women’s fashion market have been
presented. These are Shariah, Fatwa and Ijma, the Islamic penal code of Iran, governmental policies, and national
culture. Three individual variables and constructs affecting women’s buying behavior have also been identified.
These are demographic and lifestyle variables and personal religious constructs. The characteristics, importance
and applications of these factors and variables are discussed. Iran is an Islamic country that has adopted the policy
of necessary hejab (veil) by setting standards of modest dress for women. For this reason, more endeavors are
needed to understand factors affecting the women’s fashion market in this country. In addition, there is a lack of
social, psychological, and women’s studies from the perspective of Islamic fashion about Iranian women. This paper
attempts to clarify some aspects of the subject to direct some propositions for future research.
Keywords- Fashion marketing, women, hijab, Islam, Iran
1. INTRODUCTION
The global Muslim population comprises one of the fastest-growing consumer markets in the world, hence
representing a major growth opportunity for businesses around the globe, including in the fashion sector (Rosmah
Mansor, 2010). Targeting this market and providing consumers with halal product alternatives could bring
significant benefits to the fashion industries as well as food and beverage manufacturers (Bird, 2008). Islamic
dressing is a style of its own, and today it is beginning to attract more and more attention, as mainstream trends
become increasingly bold and provocative. This recent interest in Muslim fashion also signals the changing
dynamics of the ever-increasing interaction among Eastern and Western cultures. Nowadays Muslims, especially
1 Kambiz heidarzadeh Hanzaee is an Associate Professor of Marketing, Department of Business Management, School of Management and
Economics, Science and Research Branch, Islamic Azad University, Tehran, Iran. He can be conducted at: heidarzadeh@srbiau.ac.ir
2 Shahrzad Chitsaz is a PhD Student of Marketing, Department of Business Management, School of Management and Economics, Science and
Research Branch, Islamic Azad University, Tehran, Iran. She is the corresponding author and can be contacted at: sh_chitsaz@yahoo.com
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Muslim women, can choose from a broad selection of designs to create a look that matches their values, traditions
and tastes without compromising any of the three (Rosmah Mansor, 2010). Some global marketers seek to enter the
Muslim fashion markets for the first time or increase relevance in their existing Muslim markets. On the other hand,
regional marketers seeking to expand their horizons to whole Muslim markets or existing Islamic brands are looking
for deeper understanding of their current consumer base. For Western brands, the challenges are more daunting.
While Islamic audiences love the Western big brands, they want their own – for two reasons. Firstly, many brands
are not yet compliant with Islamic values, and secondly, Islamic countries want to create their own global brands
that they see as strategic business assets and national brand ambassadors. Western brands have the marketing and
branding expertise but often lack the cultural awareness and local knowledge to penetrate Islamic markets
successfully (Tempora, 2010).
In addition, Muslim countries should not be treated as a homogenous fashion market. They are quite different in
cultural values, consumer behaviours, and marketing practices. The absence of a core country in the Muslim fashion
world makes Islam values harder for outsiders to understand (Shuayto, 2010). Each Muslim country tends to have its
unique version of Islamic law incorporated into their legal system (Muhamad Hashim & Mizerski, 2010). Some
Islamic countries tend to adopt a more comprehensive version of Islamic law than others. For example, Iran is an
Islamic country that has adopted the policy of necessary hejab (veil) by setting standards of modest dress for
women. For this reason, more endeavors are needed to understand factors affecting the women’s fashion market in
this country. This paper attempts to clarify factors and constructs influencing the women’s fashion market at legal,
societal, and individual levels in Iran. The first part is an opening concerning the Halal market and industry and the
position of Halal fashion in the context. The next discussion is related to the meaning of Islamic hejab (veil) in
general and its special condition in Iran. The third part presents legal and societal factors influencing the women’s
fashion market, and the last part pertains to individual variables and constructs affecting women’s buying behavior
in the fashion market.
2. Halal market and fashion products’ position
Study of consumer behaviour is vital when it comes to marketing of Halal products. The fact of the matter is Muslim
consumers are very much similar to any other consumer segments, demanding healthy and quality products, which
must also conform to Shariah (Islamic system of life) requirements (Harran & Low, 2008). Halal is an Arabic word
meaning permissible in Islam, and the Halal market, i.e. products that are Shariah-compliant, represents a significant
portion of Islamic countries’ economies. The Halal industry includes three main categories: food, lifestyle, and
services. (Alserhan, 2010). Halal fashion is one of the Halal lifestyle areas. Halal lifestyle can include other subjects
such as beauty, jewelry and luxury goods, automotive, interiors, arts, and cultural products.
3. Islamic hejab (veil) and its condition in Iran
Veiling, for Islam, is usually understood as a Quranic injunction requiring women's modest dress (Gökarıksel &
Secor, 2009). The hijab dress code stipulates that women should cover their entire body, except their face and palms,
with clothing in public. One of the common misconceptions is that Islamic women’s clothes are based on obsolete
and old-fashioned principles dominated by monotonous black and oversized dresses. But the truth is that Islamic
clothing, while necessarily modest, does not necessarily sacrifice the basic elements of style, fashion, elegance and
dignity (Mulali, 2009). Beauty is a characteristic of a person and is perceived also from a religious perspective,
interpreted within the context of Shariah. Islam does not scorn or debase physical and visual beauty (Muhammad,
2008). A Muslim woman can actually meet Islamic law and at the same time enjoy Hijab fashion beauties (Mulali,
2009). Iran is an Islamic country that has adopted the policy of necessary hejab (veil) by setting standards of modest
dress for women, and women have no choice to veil or not. They can choose their public clothing from some
combinations of manteaus, trousers or long skirts to cover their entire body and headscarves, maqneas (a kind of
headscarf) or chadors to veil their head and hair. Necessary official dress is a combination of manteaus, trousers and
maqneas in modest and plain colors.
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4. Influencing legal and societal factors on the women’s fashion market
There are some main legal and societal factors influencing the women’s fashion market in Iran. A clear
understanding of these factors helps fashion marketers to touch the main roots, social reality and philosophy of hijab
dress in this country.
4.1 Shariah, Quran and Hadith
In Islam, the source of power is Allah, or God, and all the creation obeys his laws. The Islamic system of life is
called Shariah (Rehman & Shabbir, 2010). There are two primary sources of normative ethics in Shariah. The first
and most important source is the Quran. Muslims accept the Quran as the verbatim word of Allah, revealed to the
Prophet Muhammad (P). The second primary source is called Sunnah or Hadith, which means the words, actions,
and approvals of the Prophet Muhammad (P). Both primary sources offer broad principles and guidelines for
conducting Islamic life (Beekun & Badawi, 2005). The hijab dress code could be seen from three Quranic verses as
follows:
O prophet, tell your wives, your daughters and the believing women to draw their veils close to them, so it
is likelier they will be known, and not hurt. Allah is the forgiver, the most merciful. (Al-Quran 33:59)
Or
…Do not display your finery as pagan women used to do in the olden days of ignorance… (Al-Quran
33:33)
Also
…Do not reveal their adornment except that which is outward (face and hands); and let them draw their
veils over their neck… (Al-Quran 24:33)
Furthermore, there are some authentic Hadithes that directly point to the necessity of hijab for women.
4.2 Fatwa and Ijma
After the Prophet Muhammad (P) died, the majority of Muslim scholars established a new source of Shariah rulings
to adapt the law to new issues that may arise through time and across cultures. This source is known as fatwa
(Muhamad Hashim & Mizerski, 2010). In Shia Islam, followed by the majority of Iran’s population, the Muslim
scholar is named Mujtahid. It is necessary for the Mujtahid to be male, mature, sane, Shia Ithna Ashari, of legitimate
birth, living and just (Adil). A Muslim should follow a Mujtahid in the branches of religion, i.e. practical laws or
codes of practice (Makarem Shirazi, 2010). Ijma refers ideally to the consensus of the scholars of Islam (Wikipedia,
2010). Iranian Mujtahids have similar Fatwas about hijab subjects, which means they have consensus (Ijma) on
necessity of hijab dress. In addition, most of them have similar viewpoints about suitable and modest colours and
models in dress designing.
4.3 Islamic penal code of Iran
According to the Islamic penal code of Iran, note of article 638, some penalties are enacted about disobeying Islamic
hijab.
4.4 Governmental policies
Government’s (Dowlat) and parliament’s (Majlis) ruling parties have a very prominent affect on hijab policies. Not
all of parties have the strict viewpoints about hijab, and more fashionable and stylish models are acceptable based on
their cultural policies.
4.5 National culture
There is some historical evidence revealing hijab culture’s roots in ancient Iran. In addition, Iranians adopted Islam
14 centuries ago. Consequently, there is a spirit of hejab culture in national and traditional Iranian costume.
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Therefore, designers may have Iranian and Islamic references for more inspiration or to cater to the market, which
will eventually increase sales. Influencing legal and societal factors are illustrated in figure 1.
5. Affecting individual variables and constructs on women’s fashion-buying behavior
Individual variables and constructs can be divided into demographic and lifestyle variables and personal religious
constructs affecting Iranian women’s fashion-buying behavior. These variables and constructs can be studied to
recognize different generations, classes of society and orders of religiosity among Iranian women that will explain
their fashion-buying behavior.
5.1 Demographic variables
Age: Iran has one of the youngest populations in the world. According to the Iran National Statistics web site,
around 70% of Iran’s citizens are under the age of 30. Most young Iranian women, as many other young women in
the world, like eye-catching models in their dress. They certainly do not want to purchase plain and simple clothes.
They prefer bright colors, modern patterns and cuts, and more fitted dresses. Sometimes challenges occur between
their wants and existing hijab policies. The winner will be a marketer who can create a fashion approach complying
with both legal and societal factors and meeting the desires of the young generation.
Education level: In Iran, women's education levels are rising at a much faster rate than men’s are. The growth and
expansion of the well-educated female population and their awareness of global society makes them more dress and
fashion conscious. They want a veiling fashion satisfying their subjectivity and presenting their position as urban,
educated, and tasteful women who are Muslim and modern.
Employment and income: The increasing employment rate among women is very noticeable in recent years. In
addition, Iranian women are attempting to attain a more equal share in the high-ranking official positions of the
executive. They are not only seeking a fashion style demonstrating their job position but also are willing to pay high
prices for fashion dresses. In fact, they are able and willing to spend an appropriate share of their income for their
own appearance.
5.2 An important lifestyle
Intellectual women and social activist: Islamic teaching greatly emphasizes the importance of education and
encourages women’s participation in all public spheres (Hamdan, 2006). Women have been one of the most
important social groups in the Iranian social movement in recent decades. Iranian female university members,
intellectuals, journalists and social activists have raised the standards of thinking and living in Iran. They are one of
the most sophisticated buyer groups. Although they believe that men and women have the same and equal social,
religious and moral duties and responsibilities, they are completely aware of their femininity and respect their own
womanhood. They have different ideas in their mind and attempt to reproduce a new and modern reading of Islam,
especially about women. They want a fashion style reflecting their intellectuality, equal position with men,
femininity, and great ambitions.
5.3 Personal religious construct
Understanding the influence of religion on human behavior is complicated. According to Muhamad and Mizerski
(2010), based on religious psychology literature and marketing studies, the influence of religion on consumer
behavior is found to be mediated through five factors. These factors include an individual’s religious affiliation, his
or her commitment to religious beliefs and practices, the extent of his or her religious knowledge in his or her views
and perceptions on societal issues, and his or her motivation in following his or her religion. Religious affiliation is a
categorical measure of the religion to which one is affiliated. Consumers affiliated with different religions tend to
show different shopping styles. Nonetheless, other factors such as culture, ethnicity, or lifestyle could have
contributed to the differences between consumers from different religious affiliations. In fact, religious affiliation
did not have a significant effect in several areas of buyer behaviors. Religious commitment is widely termed
“religiosity” and is said to represent an individual’s adherence to his or her religion’s beliefs and practices.
Consumers’ commitment in performing religious activities, rather than their beliefs in religious doctrines, has an
effect in their responses in regards to their behaviors in the marketplace. Religious orientation refers to one’s
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approach in following their religion, and usually is based on the intrinsic and extrinsic perspectives of motivation.
Individuals who are intrinsically motivated toward their religion are characterized as having a greater tendency to
fully integrate their religion into their life, as well as adhere to the religion because it is perceived to be their prime
objective in their life.
The extrinsically religious individual tends to selectively adopt religious teachings to suit their goals in life. This
concept is reported to be the most useful approach in understanding the influence of a religion’s influences on
human behavior (Muhamad & Mizerski, 2010). Religious orientation and motivation appears to be the most credible
factor in describing religious influences on women’s fashion-buying behavior in Iran’s marketplace. It will be very
useful to analyze Iranian women’s religious orientation and motivation to find relations between this construct and
other demographic variables and lifestyle characteristics. Since Iran is governed by an Islamic system most women,
especially educated ones, have relatively deep knowledge about Islamic teachings and are aware of their societal
consequences. Affecting individual variables and constructs are illustrated in figure 2.
6. CHALLENGES AHEAD AND CONCLUSION
Iran has been recognized as a country with a complicated culture and history. Some parts of this intricacy can be
sought in historical relations between Iran and Islam, Iran and the West, and the history of intellectuality in Iran.
Hijab and Islamic fashion may be considered as a coincidence of these four subjects (Iran, Islam, West and
intellectuality). On the other hand, Iran suffers from some lack of social, psychological, and women’s studies. Such
challenges confront marketers and may dissuade them from planning to enter Iran’s women’s fashion market.
Although we could introduce some of the influencing societal factors and individual variables, we believe that
studies that will be developed on these factors and variables can shed light on the main dark areas. They will help
marketers to set hijab fashion programs targeting different segments based on age categories, education levels, job
positions and income, elite groups, and religious orders with different orientation and sources of motivation. The
challenge will be to follow current Iranian trends without disregarding the legal and societal stipulations for Iranian
Muslim women’s clothing.
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Figure 1
Influencing legal and societal factors
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Figure 2
Affecting individual variables and constructs
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