John M. Boyle Himalayan Library

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John M. Boyle Himalayan Library
Box: Everest 1912-1933, Folder: 1922 Postcards and Pictures, 1922 Expedition.
Title:
John M. Boyle Himalayan Library
Dates:
1900s-2000s
Abstract:
This collection contains nearly 3000 items including books, ephemera,
video/film and photographic materials relating to mountaineering expeditions to the Himalayan
Mountain Range in Central Asia and 2500 expedition reports and books. It contains all reports on
all expeditions to the Greater Ranges which occurred during the collections’ bulk dates. This
includes the Himalaya, Karakoram, Tien Shan, Pamirs and Hindu Kush. The primary emphasis is
on the 14 8,000 meter peaks, regions of climbing interest since the beginning of the 20th century.
Languages:
36 languages are represented
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Africaans
Bengali
Bulgarian
Catalan
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Repository:
Czech
Danish
Dutch
English
Finnish
Flemmish
French
German
Greenlandish
Greek
Hebrew
Hindi
Hungarian
Icelandic
Italian
Japanese
Korean
Latvian
Lithuanian
Malaysian
Mandarin – Taiwan
Nepalese
Norwegian
Polish
Portuguese
Russian
Senegalese
Serbo-Croatian
Slovakian
Spanish
Swedish
Welsh
American Alpine Club Library
Provenance:
The beginnings of the Himalayan Library are traced back to the efforts of
Professor E.O. Dyrenfurth, the task then passed down to Anders Bolinder, and finally the
collection cultivated and expanded by John M. Boyle. In the years spanning 1987-1997, Boyle
further developed the collection with specific emphasis put on unique items and signatures of
expedition members. In 1997, Boyle donated the Himalayan Library to the American Alpine Club
Library.
st
Box: Manaslu, Folder: 1956 Manaslu 1 Ascent – Summit Photos.
Scope and Contents
In 1997, the American Alpine Club Library received a generous donation from John M. Boyle: the
Himalayan Library. This collection contains 2500 books in 28 different languages/dialects
(approximately half of these autographed by expedition members), 400 expedition reports, and
100 videos/films and 35 boxes of ephemera.
The Himalayan Library has the only autographed collection of first ascent books on all fourteen
8,000 meter and seven summit peaks. Other unique items include first ascent books by John
Hunt, Maurice Herzog and Karl Herrligkoffer; book by Hasagawa on his illegal solo ascent of
Nanga Parbat; book with autographs of 1924 British expedition members; 1982 ABC aerial photo
footage of the East Face of Everest; slide images of a 1994 aerial fly-by; and one of only five
known surviving copies of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India.
The impetus for the creation of the Himalayan Library came to Boyle while in preparation for a
1983 Everest East Face Expedition. As assigned expedition engineer, the task of getting 12
climbers and 3,000 lbs of equipment and supplies safely up the East Face required detailed
research information and documentation on past expeditions and routes. In researching, Boyle
could find no continuous record of expedition logs. Also found lacking were photographic
material and bibliographies of recommended books and resources.
In Boyle’s words, “The Himalayan Library genesis was the task to find a way up the East Face of
Everest”; a task which was in the end successful when on October 8th and 9th of 1983, six team
members stood atop the summit. Upon the return from Everest, Boyle began gathering and
compiling a complete library on Himalayan Expeditions.
The first incarnation of the Himalayan Library began in pre-WWII Austria by Professor E.O.
Dyrenfurth. These early expeditions were largely organized by national clubs and due to the
publicity and interest in the unknowns of high altitude exploration, the expeditions were well
documented, written about and reported on. Professor Dyrenfurth collected detailed records of
these early expeditions. In 1969, upon Professor Dyrenfurth’s retirement, the library and
collection responsibilities fell to Anders Bolinder of Switzerland.
Bolinder became European Honorary Secretary of the Himalayan Mountain Club and provided
extensive reporting on European Himalayan expeditions; this included his interviews of all
expedition teams. He was noted as the “reporter of record” on European Himalayan expeditions.
Bolinder’s death in 1986 resulted in the move of the library once again. In 1987, Boyle purchased
Bolinder’s collection of around 300 books from his estate.
The collection has been compiled primarily by John Boyle himself, with the exception of three
primary purchases: the acquisition of the Anders Bolinder archival collection, the acquisition of a
collection of books from Eugen Gippenreitter and finally the acquisition of a collection of books
from Leonid Zmatnin. These collections were coalesced by Boyle, into what is today the
Himalayan Library.
The completeness and thorough scope of this assemblage are part of the uniqueness of this
collection. A primary focus has been documentation of every expedition to the Great Peaks and
collection of the expedition report in the original language. Another unique aspect of this
collection lies in autographed material. Each of the first ascents of the fourteen 8000 meter
peaks is documented in a book. The Himalayan Library holds books from each expedition,
autographed by expedition team members.
Box: Everest 1986-1987, Folder: Peter Weber – Book of Sketches.
Box: Everest 1986-1987, Folder: Peter Weber – Book of Sketches.
Box: Everest 1986-1987, Folder: Peter Weber – Book of Sketches.
Subjects:
Asia, Central--Description and travel.
Himalaya Mountains.
Himalaya Mountains Region--Guidebooks.
Himalaya Mountains--Pictorial works.
Himalaya Mountains Region--Description and travel.
Hinduism.
Hindu Kush Mountains (Afghanistan and Pakistan).
India--Description and travel.
India--Social life and customs.
Karakoram Range.
Karakoram Range--Pictorial works.
Mountaineering.
Mountaineering--Asia, Central.
Mountaineering--Himalaya Mountains.
Mountaineering--History.
Nanga Parbat (Pakistan).
Natural history--Himalaya Mountains.
Nepal--Description and travel.
Box: Everest Misc., Folder: Mt. Everest - Photos – Collection A. Bolinder.
Box: Everest 1912-1933, Folder: 1922 Postcards and Pictures, 1922 Expedition.
People:
Allison, Stacy
Anders Bolinder, -1987
Batard, Marc
Beghin, Pierre
Berg, Wally
Boardman, Peter, 1950
Bonington, Chris, 1934Boyle, John M.
Breashears, David
Burgess, Adrian, 1949Cassell, Jay
Chouinard, Yvon, 1938Clinch, Nicholas, 1930Deckon, Claude
Dickinson, Leo
Diemberger, Kurt
Durrance, Jack
Elliott, C.A.
Escoffier, Eric
Everest, George, Sir, 1790-1866
Fischer, Scott, 1955-1996
Flynn, Adrian
Hall, Henry Jr.
Hall, Rob, 1961-1996
Hargreaves, Allison 1963-1995
Hawley, Liz
Hebeler, Peter
Herbert, E.S.
Herzog, Maurice, 1919Hillary, Edmund, Sir, 1919-2008
Hill-Pittmann, Sandy
Houston, Charles
Irvine, Andrew, 1902-1924
Kammerlander, Hans, 1956
Krakauer, Jon
Larson, Dan
Long, Peter
Longland, J.L.
Loretan, Erhard
Lowe, George, 1924Luce, Peggy
Mallory, George, 1886-1924
Mallory, John
Marshall, Roger
Messner, Reinhold, 1944Molenaar, Dee
Noel, John
Norgay, Tenzing, 1914-1986
Pratt, Jonathan
Reichardt, Lou
Rutkiewicz, Wanda
Schell, Hans
Scott, Doug
Stammberger, Fritz, 1940Stevens, Rebecca
Swenson, Steve
Tasker, Joe
Troillet, Jean
Unsoeld, Terres
Unsoeld, William Francis, 1926Viesturs, Ed
Ward, Mike
Weber, Peter
Whitaker, Lou
Wurzer, Rudolf
Box: Everest Misc., Folder: Mt. Everest - Photos – Collection A. Bolinder.
Physical Location:
Annapurna
Broad Peak
Cho Oyu
Chogori
Dhaulagiri
Everest
Gasherbrum
Hidden Peak
K2
Kangchenjunga
Kangshung Face
Karakorum
Lhotse
Lhotse Shar
Makalu
Manaslu
Nanga Parbat
North Col
Sagarmantha
Shishapangma
South Col
Arrangement:
The collection has not been kept in its original order. The book collection
is classified under the standards set out by the Library of Congress
Subject Headings and AACR2 cataloging rules. The ephemera box
collection is organized by peak, and then by date.
Box: Everest 1912-1933, Folder: Everest – Scrapbook – 1933.
Restrictions
Access:
Usage:
No restrictions.
Housed in the Rare Books room, the John M. Boyle Himalayan Library is
not a circulating collection. Items may be requested and viewed under
supervision of staff in the AAC Reading Room during regular Library
hours or by appointment.
Box: Everest Misc., Folder: Mt. Everest - Photos – Collection A. Bolinder.
Detailed Description of the Collection:
Box
Annapurna
Folder
Date
Contents
Paris Match
Aug. 1950
Point de Vue
Images du Monde
Jul. 27, 1950
Victoire sur L'Himalaya (French).
1st Ascent of Annapurna.
Autographed by Herzog.
L'Himalaya a pris a Herzog et a
Lachenel, p.5. Autographed by
Herzog
Jul. 9, 1950
"Trial by Ice." French climb of
Annapurna by Ulman. Signed by
Herzog. P.84-95
Life Magazine
Life Magazine
Dec. 21, 1953
La Vie
Feb. 1953
"Tragic Study in Blue and
Green." French movie of
Herzog. Signed by Herzog.
Louis Lachenal. Cover of
L'Annapurna.
Life International
Geographical
Magazine
Army
Mountaineering
Association
Expeditcion
Espanola al
Annapurna
Navarra en
himalaya
Shisha Pangma
Nov. 18, 1963
"Great Families of Europe"
signed by Herzog.
Sept. 1970
North Face Route to the Summit
of Annapurna. P.900-912. Niven
and Day. British.
1970
British/Nepal Expedition.
1974
Spanish expedition to
Annapurna.
1979
Spanish brochure.
Deutsche ski-expedition zue
Annapurna.
Luigi Rampini, scientific report.
Amateurs de polemigues
(french).
Swedish Himalayan Expedition.
Folder with clippings and
correspondence.
Japanese expedition unsuccessful (in English).
Brochure.
Annapurna I
Annapurna II
1980
1981
Annapurna
1979
Annapurna
1981
Expedition Report
Catalan Expedition
1983/1984
1984
French Expedition
Report
1984
Swiss Expedition
1984
South Korean
Expedition
1984/1985
Annapurna IV
1987
The Sun Living
Bulgarian Expedition
Report
1988
Italian
Slovene
1990
1992
Slovene
1995
Shisha Pangma
1964
China's Sports
1964
Chinese Alpinismus Journal.
"The Conquest of Mount Shisha
Pangma," p.4-23, #4.
1964
"Chinese Team Scales Highest
Unconquered Peak," p.30-33,
vol.XIII #8.
China Reconstructs
1989/1990
Expedition report (English and
French).
Brochures and photographs
(German).
Winter expedition, report in
English, from French on
mountian disputing claim of
ascent.
First American ascent.
Newspaper clippings from
Oranage County News.
"Above and Beyond" - attempt
by Steve Untch.
Unsuccessful winter attempt on
South Face.
Letter from expedition leader to
John Boyle.
Expedition report, South Face.
Expedition report, first ski
descent.
China im Bild
1964
China im Bild
1964
Der Bergsteiger
Feb. 1965
Der Bergsteiger
Apr. 1965
China Reconstructs
Mar. 1965
Der Bergsteiger
1973
Der Natur Freund
1981
British
1982
Doug Scott - Shisha
Pangma
Swiss Himalayan
Expedition
1985
Aichigakuin
University Alipine
Club
"Die Besteigung Des Shisha
Pangma," p.374-381 (German),
Chinese expedition 1964.
"Wissenschaftliche
Untersuchungen am Sisha
Pangma," p.576-581 (German).
"Scientists Study Mount Shisha
Pangma," p.18-23.
"Ist der Shisha Pangma
erterstiegen?" p.54-55.
Shisha Pangma erfulg und
dramatik. Hans Hunter. 1981
expedition.
Envelope with correspondence
and photographs by Doug Scott.
Collection of correspondence,
historical data of climbs in
Shisha Pangma area. A Bolinder
collection.
Shisha Pangma brochure.
Shishapangma
Expeditions
Osterr Expedition
1994
1974
Kvety
1976
Collection A.
Bollinder
1973/1976
Book: "Faraway Tibet; The
Ascent of Shisha Pangma."
1989 ascent, (Japanese).
"Along the Himalayan
Footpaths," p.142-149. First
Soviet expedition to Shisha
Pangma.
1991 Fall Japanese attempt of
Shisha Pangma. Booklet
(Japanese).
Bericht sachsisehe xixabangma.
Slides. 1982 manuscript of book
with slides. 30 black and white
prints. Scott/Bolinder
correspondence.
Expedition postcard.
"Nasi horolezci na Makalu,"
Kruty Pahrhek Snehu, p.15-17.
Magazine article.
Collection of Czechoslovakian
climbs of Makalu 1973 and
1976. Clippings in English and
Czachoslovakian. Magazine
articles.
Makalu
1976
Expedicion Espanola Himalaya brochure.
Sputnik
Nagano
Mountaineer
Association
Makalu
"Die Bezwingung des Schischa
Pangma," p.26-29 (German).
"Der Schischa Pangma gibt
seine Geheimnisse preis," p.1822 (German).
1990
Jul. 1992
1992
US/International
Expedition
Japanese
Expedition
Makalu International
Expedition
Korean
1982
French Expedition
1981/1982
Expedition brochure and report.
British Expedition
1984
Climbing Magazine
Basque
1996
1984
Photographs and report, Doug
Scott.
Correspondence with editor of
Climbing Magazine regarding
inaccuracy in SE ridge attempts.
Expedition report.
American-Canadian
Expedition
Dutch Expedition
1984
1985
Expedition report, Carlos Buhler.
Expedition report, Makalu II.
1986
1988
1989
Expedition report.
Expedition report.
Expedition report.
1990
Spanish brochure.
"L'Epopee de Beghin," Pierre
Gebhin, p.27-32, South Face
Makalu.
Expedition brochure.
"La Montagne du Bonheur,"
p.84-94 (French).
Makalu I - 3 copies, Makalu II - 3
copies.
"Makalu Ein Pole am Makalu,"
1981.
Makalu - Austrian expedition
report.
City of Trento report and
Cordoba Spanish expedition
report.
Club Alpino Italiano. "Everest e
Lhotse," p.11-26, Fritz
Luchsinger.
Book Jacket: "Lhotse 75," Club
Alpino Italiano.
Alpi Rando
Magazine
Spanish Expedition
Montagnes
Magazine
1977
Abandon attempts, newspaper
clippings.
Newspaper clippings.
Correspondence German/Bolinder.
Letter from Shin Sewng Mo,
Christmas card to John Boyle.
Regarding 1982 Makalu.
Photograph.
Tyrol Expedition
Expedicio Makalu
Catalan Expedition
Makalu 8481
Penedes
Lhotse
1977
1978
Dec. 1989
1990
Jan. 1990
Makalu Himal
Jerzykutuczka der
Bersteiger
1988
Austrian Expedition
1981
Italian and Spanish
Expeditions
1984
Rivista Mensile
1957
Lhotse 75
Apr. 1982
Austrian Expedition
1979
The American
Alpine News
1990
The American
Alpine News
1994
Adventure
Consultants News
Hall and Viesturs Climb Lhotse.
Swabian Expedition
1977
Basque
Catalan Mataro
Expedition
American Expedition
1981
1984
1984
Lhotse Shar
Gasherbrum II
(in Lhotse Box)
30 Jahr Osterreichische
Himalaya OHG, p.14-18 (p.9
Dhaulagiri expedition).
American Alpine News, v.7
#191, 1990. American EverestLhotse expedition 1990, two
climbers made first American
ascent, Scott Fisher and Wally
Berg. Article on Americans on
K1 and Makalu. Clippings of
Lhotse climb by Fisher and
Berg.
American Alpine News, v.7
#207, p.17-20. Everest/Lhotse Rob Hall and Ed Viesturs.
Swabian expedition report and
clippings.
Expedition report.
Lhotse shar - Catalan Matado
expedition report.
Expedition report.
Tomo Cesen
1990
Lhotse Shar Cingles
1990
South Korean expedition report.
"Sweetheart of the Himalayas"
by David Roberts. Lhotse South
Face. Outside Magazine, p.68
Expedition mataro al himalaya (2
copies).
Lhotse
South Korean
Expedition
Yugoslavian
Expedition
1990
"Katedrala Lotse."
1989
GII, S. Korean expedition report.
1977
Hidden Peak.
Mazama Expedition
1985
Swiss Expedition
1986
Polish Expedition
1985
Hidden Peak.
Hidden Peak, GI, Swiss
expedition report.
Hidden Peak, GI, Polish
expedition.
Broad Peak
Cho Oyu
Polish Expedition
1975
Chilean Expedition
1979
Catalan Expedition
1980
Interview
Spanish Expedition
1981
1992
British Expedition
1983
American Expedition
1988
Japanese
Expedition
1986
Broad Peak
1986
Polish Expedition
1975
American Expedition
1988
Karakorum Pakistan
Cho Oyu
1989
Match Magazine
1959
Bunte Illustrierte
Jul.1964
Bunte Illustrierte
Jul.1964
Ascent of Cho Oyu
1979
Austrian Expedition
1978
Iranian/German
1979
Bunte Magazine
1983
Expedition report, Karakorum,
GII, photos, (in English).
Expedition report, Karakorum,
GII (in English).
Expedition report (in English).
"Il tieno nel Gotha Degli 8000,"
GII interview with Romulo
Nottaris (2 copies).
Expedition report.
Expedition report, Broad Peak,
K2.
Brochure of American
Expedition to Broad Peak.
First Japanese ascent, report of
Masherbrum/Broad Peak
expedition.
Card - Broad Peak/K2.
Reports in German and English.
"Victory and Tragedy on Broad
Peak," photographs.
American Broad Peak and K2
expedition. 1988 Karakorum
challenge. Letter to Adrian
Burgess to John Boyle.
Karakorum - Pakistan, K2/Broad
Peak, card to John Boyle.
Maps and photographs.
"La Tragigne Expedition de
Kogan," p.36-52, Oct. 1959,
#551. French-Belgium
expedition.
"Triumph and Tragik im
Himalaja," p.32-41, #30.
"Triumph and Tragik im
Himalaja," p.14-17, #29.
Correspondence between
Bolinder and Frits Stenberger
regarding claimed ascent of Cho
Oyu and subsequent
disappearance.
Expedition report with
photographs.
Correspondence with lawyers
over Seleki film and book.
"Auf dem Gipfel der
Gluckseligskeit," p.16-27, #38,
Tyrol/Cho Oyu.
1987
Correspondence between
Bolinder and Eliz Hawley
regarding Messner's route on
Cho Oyu.
1983
Expedition report (in English).
Bunte Magazine
Slovene Impol
Expedition
1983
"Warum ich noch lebe," p.10-15,
#4. Reinhold Messner.
1984
Expedition report.
Yugoslav Expedition
1984
Expedition report.
British Expedition
Italian/Nepal
Expedition
Catalan Expedition
Polish/Canadian
Expedition
Japanese
Expedition
1984
Expedition report.
1983
1984
1984/1985
Expedition report.
Expedition report.
Expedition report. First winter
ascent.
1985
Expedition report.
Basque Expedition
Polish/American
Expedition
1985
Expedition report.
1985
Bergwelt Magazine
Feb.1986
Expedition report.
"Ae Gnode der Gottin in Turkis,"
p.72-81.
Bergwelt
Jun. 1986
China Sports
Spanish Expedition
Sept. 1985
1992/1993
Cho Oyu
1989
Cho Oyu - Norman
Crouchers
El Cho Oyu Hablo
1995
1987
Cho Oyu Messner's Route
Japanese
Expedition
Dhaulagiri
Osterreichische
Polish Expedition
Cho Oyu
Guidebook.
1982
1986
Sierra Club
1952
1988
"Allein zum Cho Oyu," p.45-47.
Conquering the World's Sixth
Highest Peak, p.26-31, #9 (in
English).
Winter ascent.
Correspondence with Magda
King.
Newspaper clippings regarding
Norman Crouchers climb of Cho
Oyu in 1995 as a double
amputee.
Mauricio Parto A (2 copies).
Expedition postcard.
Expedition report.
Cho Oyu Himal Guidebook 1
and 2.
"To Dhaulagiri - World's Fifth
Highest." 8 pamphlets, Sierra
Club Bulletin, May 1952.
Californian Himalayan
Expedition, 1952.
Dhaulagiri
1954
Boletin Caba Argentines al
Himalaya.
Dhaulagiri
1969
Dhaulagiri
1970
American Expedition
1973
Proposed expedition. Letters
between Bolinder and Colonel
Roberts.
Collection of A. Bolinder.
Papers, newspapers and
clippings.
American Dhaulagiri expedition
brochure.
Der Spiegel
1977
Dhaulagiri clippings, p.200-209.
Dhaulagiri
1977
Dhaulagiri
Austrian Expedition
1979
1981
Dhaulagiri
Czechoslovakian
Expedition
Czechoslovakian
Expedition
1983
Polish Expedition
Czechoslovakian
Expedition
1984/1985
Expedition report.
Expedition report and brochure
(autographed).
Winter expedition to Ahaulagiri I,
report. 1981 Slovenian
expedition to Dhaulagiri. 1985
Dhaulagiri Swiss winter
expedition report. 1986
Dhaulagiri I, West German and
Austrian expedition report.
1984
Dhaulagiri, Feb. 1985, p.20-24
1984
Dhaulagiri and Lhotse Shar.
Station, 1985, p.16-17.
1984/1985
Svet Patrinam, 1987, p.66
1984
Dhaulagiri. Station, 1986, p.16.
Czech-Italian
1988
Dhaulagiri
1989
Dhaulagiri
1992
Dhaulagiri
1992
Leben, p.12-13.
Club Montanyene du Terrassa.
Expedition report.
"Il Monte Bianco." Montagna,
Sept. 1992, p.24-33.
Postcard to Boyle regarding
Romanian women/Wanda
Rutkiewicz.
Czechoslovakian
Expedition
Czechoslovakian
Expedition
Czechoslovakian
Expedition
1984
1984
Stern Magazine, Sept. 1977,
p.43.
Nararra en Himalaya, Spanish
brochure.
Expedition report.
Letter from Claude Deckon
regarding illegal ascent.
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat
Austrian Nature
Magazine
1934
Map.
1978
Austrian Expedition
1978
Magazine article.
Karakorum/Nanga Parbat
expedition report
Nanga Parbat
Photograph.
Nanga Parbat
Austrian Nature
Magazine
Austrian
Photograph.
Rudolf Wurzer
Himalayan Club of
Switzerland
Austrian Karakorum
Expedition.
1978
Karakorum expedition list.
Letter and postage from Rudolf
Wurzer in Linz.
Letter regarding the Nanga
Parbat expedition.
Alpinismus Magazine. Story on
Austrian Karakorum expedition.
Czech Expedition
1971
Postcard from expedition.
Czech Expedition
1971
Czech Expedition
1971
Czech Expedition
German-Austrian
Expedition
1971
1975
Report in English of the 1971
Czech Nanga Parbat expedition.
Report in German of the 1971
Czech Nanga Parbat expedition.
36 black and white photographs
from expedition.
Correspondence and expedition
report.
Czech Expedition
1969
Expedition report (in Czech).
Czech Expedition
Czech Expedition
Czech Expedition
Tatra Climbers
Expedition
1969
1969
1969
Expedition report (in German).
Expedition report (in English).
Correspondence in German.
1969
Austrian Expedition
1976
Reports in German and English.
Vieram Nanga Parbat
Osterreicher Alpine Verein, p.39. Hans Schell.
Polish Expedition
1985
Expedition brochure.
Scottish Expedition
Spanish Expedition
1992
1980
Dutch Expedition
Polish Expedition
1981
1985
Expedition report.
Expedition report.
Dutch Sports Magazine. Soty on
Dutch Nanga Parbat expedition.
Expedition brochure.
Korean
Polish Expedition
British-Scottish
1989
1992
1992
Korean tragedy and GII attempt.
Postcards and expedition report.
Expedition presentation. Copy
Kangchenjunga
and Yalun Kang
British
1993
British Expedition
1956
Alpine Club of Kyoto
1973
Barcelona, Spanish
Expedition
1978
Perspektywy
Magazine
1978
Sportowiec
1978
British Expedition
1979
Japanese
Expedition
1981
French Climb
1983
Polish-Spanish
Expedition
1984
Spanish Magazine
1986
from leader, Peter Long.
Postcard and photograph.
"Kanchenjunga Climbed" by
George Band, The Geographical
Magazine, Jan. 1956, p.422.
Yalung Kang. Academie Alpine
Club of Kyoto.
Expedicio Himalaia. Yalung
Kang 8438 meters. Club
Muntanyene Barlcelona
Terrassa. Brochure and
correspondence.
"Polacy na Szczyeie" and
"Kangezendzonga" p.17-21 (2
copies, Polish climb).
"Piec Skarbrie WielKieso
Sniegu" Kangezendzonga, p.15.
Expedition report - Peter
Boardman, Georges
Bettembourg, Doug Scott, Joe
Tasker.
Kangchenjunga and Yalung
Kang, Japanese expedition
brochure.
"Le Kanchenjunga en solo"
Montagnes Magazine, #58, p.43.
1983 French solo climb.
Polish-Spanish Yalung Kang,
expedition trip report and
Slovene-Yugoslav expedition
report.
"Ho Hem Aconsegut!" Expedicio
gioronina al Kanchenjunga
Estiu-Tardor, Juan Cudola.
Supplement (Spanish).
Kangchenjunga "The Last
200m" Michael Groom. Letter
and report.
Australian Report
Basque and French
Expedition
1988
International
Expedition
1988
American Expedition
1989
Yaling Kang, expedition
brochure.
Kangchenjunga, International
Expedition report, brochure and
clippings. Carlos Buhler.
Submitted Buhler, Hohler,
Zabaleta.
American Kangchenjunga
Expedition (successful).
AAVM Expedition
Manaslu
Nicholas Clinch
Academie Alpine
Club of Kyoto
New Zealand
Expedition
Kangchenjunga
Himal
Ascent of Manaslu
First Ascent
Schwabian
Expedition
1984
Kangchenjunga expedition,
Norwand-German.
Letter to John Boyle from
Nicholas Clinch.
Yalung Kang. Academie Alpine
Club of Kyoto.
Kangchenjunga expedition
report.
1988
1956
1956
Mainichi Newspaper article.
Folder with summit photographs.
1992
1973
1973
Iranian/Japanese
Expedition
1976
German Expedition
1977
Czech Expedition
1980
British
Bolinder/Keenland
Joint Expedition
1983
German Expedition
1984
German Expedition
1983
Austrian Expedition
International
Himalayan
Expedition
American Expedition
1985
1983
1981
1990
Manaslu Nord
Manaslu Nord
1961
British
Heidelberg and
Yugoslavian
Expeditions
1984
1984
Expedition brochure.
Expedition brochure in Arabic,
report and correspondence in
German.
German expedition
(unsuccessful). Clippings (in
English).
Women's ascent.
Report on Joint Services East
Nepal expedition to Manaslu.
Correspondence between
Bolinder and Keenland.
Expedition report, Manaslu
North, unsuccessful.
Report (in German).
Expedition report and
correspondence.
Book of Sketches by Peter
Weber.
Expedition brochure.
Collection A. Bolinder, Extensive
correspondence on dispute of
summit by Schriebel and heights
of I and II.
First day of issue Manaslu
stamp, Feb. 26, 1961.
Manaslu North. Letter from
Bolinder to Mike Cheney.
Manaslu Heidelberg expedition
West German report. Manaslu
Yugoslavian expedition report.
Japanese and
Argentine
Expeditions
West GermanAustrian and
Heidelberg
Expeditions
Everest: 19121933
Badminton
Magazine
1985
1986
Jan. 1912
1921-1936
Manaslu Japanese North East
Face winter expedition report.
Manaslu Argentine East Ridge
expedition report.
Manaslu West German and
Austrian expedition report. 1984
Manaslu Heidelberg West
German-Swiss expedition report.
"Can Mount Everest be
Climbed?" by George D.
Abraham.
Everest Bestigningarna au Mt.
Everest. Jorden Runt. May
1937.
Barcelona
1922
Captain Finch
Lecture
1922
"Les Exploracions Del Mont
Everest" (2 copies).
"Climbing Mount Everest," flyer
for lecture by Captain Finch.
Expedition
1922
Postcards and pictures.
British Newspaper
1924
British Expedition
1924
British Expedition
1924
British Expedition
1924
Expedition newspaper clippings.
"Climbing Mount Everest,"
program with John Noel.
Philharmonic Hall.
Photographs of 1924 expedition.
General Bruce's account of
1922 climb. Scientific American
Aug. 1924.
"These Men Fought Everest and
Lost," p.31, Sept. 1969 The
Sunday Times Magazine.
Assault on Mount
Everest
1924
British Expedition
1924
British Expeditions
1922/1924/1933
Player's Cigarettes
1924
1933 Expedition
1934
Hugh Ruttledge
Sept. 6, 1933
London Lancet
Nov. 17, 1934
"The Everest Enigma" by Peter
Gillman. Newspaper article,
weekend FT, Nov. 15, 1986
(new developments).
Newspaper clippings of British
routes.
Party to Storm Top of the World.
NY Tribune, Feb. 24, 1924.
"Mount Everest-The Full Story"
by Frank Smythe. Kodak
Magazine, p.17-25.
"Future Attack on Everest,"
newspaper clipping.
"The Everest Oxygen Apparatus
1933" by Raymond Greene.
London Lancent, p.1122-1124.
Everest: 19341953
Everest: 1953-
A; Asalto de la Cumbre del
Mundo. Las Expediciones al
Herrclay Ediciones Populares
Iberia. Kangchenjunga 1929,
Dyhrenforth Everest 1930,
Everest 1921, Everest 1922,
1924, 1933. Flight over EverestHistorical.
"Caught in an Everest Blizzard."
Spanish Expedition
1933
J.L. Longland
1933
Scrapbook
1933
Album
Cambridge
Mountaineering
Journal
1936
Charles Houston
1952
"Why Climb Everest?" by J.L.
Longland.
"Venture into Forbidden Nepal"
by Dr. Charles Houston. Look
Magazine, Jan. 1952.
Exploration of Everest, Nepal
side. Letter from Houston to
John Boyle, Oct. 29, 1986.
Nepalese
Exploration
1950
Clippings and articles in Look
Magazine. 1950 Nepalese
exploration. Charles Houston.
"Wekelijkse
studrereeks stichting
ivio actuele
onderwerpen"
1951
Booklet.
Reconnaissance
Expedition
1951
Geographical
Journal
1951
Barcelona
1954
Everest reconnaissance
expedition. Times supplement.
Everest cartographic and
photographic evidence of a new
route from Nepal. Michael Ward,
Geographical Journal, v.158,
March 1992, p.47-56.
Everest Expedicion de
Reconocimiento Al Everest
(Spanish). Photographs. Copy
from Mike Ward.
Bolinder Story
1952
Clippings. Anders Bolinder story,
"Did Russia Try to Climb Everest
in 1952?"
Ascent of Everest
1953
British Climbs
Colliers
1951/1953
1953
1938
Scrapbook, Westland Aircraft,
Everest Expedition.
Volume of newspaper clippings,
British.
British climbs on Everest.
Scrapbook and clippings.
"Will They Climb Everest Now?"
1959
Swiss Expedition
1952/1953
The Sphere
Apr. 1952
Swiss Expedition
1952/1953
Everest
Correspondence
1953
British Ascent
1953
Spanish Account
1953
Colliers, Apr. 4, 1953. "Mount
Everest Mystery" Holiday, May
1953, p.187.
Swiss expedition to Everest.
Newspaper clippings.
Some Previous Himalayan
Assaults, Shiptons Previous
Expedition to Cho Oyu, Swiss
Expedition Heading for Everest.
P.63
Der Bergsteiger, Jan/Nov 1953,
p.33.
Henry Hall Jr., C.A. Elliott, E.S.
Herbert, John de la Montague.
British ascent of Mount Everest.
Mike Ward. British Medical
Journal, May 29, 1953, p.14551458 (reprint).
"La Conquista del fabuloso
Everest La Vanguardia
Espanola" (clipping in Spanish).
British Conquest
1953
Life Magazine
1953
"The Crowded Lonely Road to
Everest." The NY Times Book
Review "Conquest of Everest."
"Victory Over Everest." Life, #34,
no. 26, June 29, 1953. "Everest
Conquerors Came Back, " Life,
July 13, 1953.
Life Magazine
1953
"Step by Step to the Top of
Everest with Hillary & Tensing."
Life Magazine, July 13, 1953.
The Times
1953
Everest-Color Supplement.
News Chronicles
Noyce and Taylor
article
1953
L'Expedition 1953
1953
Tensing on Everest
1953
Picture Post
Jul. 4,1953
Times Supplement
1953
1953
"The Crowning Glory-Everest is
Climbed." News chronicle
clippings.
"Everest is Climbed" by Wilfred
Noyce and Richard Taylor.
L'Expedition 1953 a l'Everest per
John Hunt. Alpinisme Autumne
1953, p.243-259.
Photograph. "A Haestra Tindi
Jardar."
"Victory Over Everest." Picture
Post, p.9-13.
Everest-Color Supplement. The
Times.
Everest: 19601971
The Times
Everest/Hillary
1953
1953
The Mountaineers
Howard Sommervell
1954
1957
"Challenge to Mount Everest"
supplement, May 5, 1953. "The
First Ascent of Mount Everest,"
July 1953.
Various newspaper clippings.
"The Conquest of Mount
Everest." The Mountaineers,
Illustrated Lecture. Seattle,
March 1954.
"Heights After Everest."
Russian Expedition
Miscellaneous
Everest
1952/1958
Russian Geographical Journal.
1920-1950
Swiss Article
1956
Magazine Article
Aug. 1960
German Magazine
Article
Apr. 1961
Postcards and photographs.
2nd Ascent of Everest. SwissLife Magazine. July 1, 1957.
"We Conquered the World's
Highest Peak" by Shih Chan
Chun. China Reconstructs, v.IX
#8. Ascent of Everest from the
North side.
"Chinesen nicht auf dem
Everest" Der Bergkamered,
p.463.
Odell/Bolinder
Correspondence
Jul. 1960
Kina nr.8
Aug. 1960
China Pictoral
Visions of Asia
1960
1961
American Expedition
German Account
American Alpine
Club News
1963
Mount Everest
1965
Life Magazine
Sept. 20, 1963
Tom Hornbein
Alpinismus
1965
Letter regarding Chinese claim
of climbing Everest.
Chinese Climb Everest
(German).
Chinese Climb Everest, p.8 (2
copies in English). Chinese
Pictoral no.13.
American expedition to climb
Everest. May 1963.
Norman G. Dyhrenfurth, Mount
Everest.
AAC News #75, May 31, 1963.
Alpinismus #2, 1965. Geschichte
p.7-20. Mount Everest 1963
p.21-41.
"Mass Conquest of Mighty
Everest" by James Ramsey
Ullman.
Everest the West Ridge. Color
lithographed plates (2copies).
Handwritten notes by Bolinder
for inclusion in Alpinismus (in
Swedish).
Indian Expedition
1965
Ascent, May 1965.
Correspondence from Col.
Jimmy Roberts.
Himalayan Chronik
1966
G.O. Dyhrenfurth (in German).
Himalayan Chronik
Himalayan Chronik
Liz Hawley
"Kina stoppoate
ryskt topplag"
Proposed
Expedition
Japanese
Expedition
1967
1968
1967
G.O. Dyhrenfurth (in German).
G.O. Dyhrenfurth (in German).
Everest correspondence.
1967
May 6, 1967 (in Swedish).
Proposed expedition to South
Face of Everest.
Slides of first Japanese ascent
of Everest.
"Abenteuer Everest" and "Berg
der Schicksals Everest" p.24 by
Norman Dyhrenfurth.
Expedicion Argentina en los
Himalayas. La Montana v.15.
Schweizer
Illustrierte
Expedicion
Argentina
1970
1970
Aug. 2, 1971
Dec. 1971
International
Expedition
Everest: 19721977
Bunte Illustrierte
1972
International
Expedition
1972
Lord Hunt
L'Everest le Toit du
Monde
1972
Newspaper clippings. Sunday
Telegram and Times. "Shambles
on Everest."
"Sturm auf den Moort Everest,"
p.54-63, May 18, 1972.
Newspaper clippings, "British
Leave Climb Early." May 18,
1972, p.54-63.
"Return to the Himalayas." Lord
Hunt. Record and diagram of
assaults.
1972
Japanese
Expedition
1973
Everest 8848, The Japanese
Expedition to Mount Everest,
preliminary report.
Basque Expedition
1974
Expedition report.
German Article
Sept. 1975
Chinese Expedition
Sept. 1975
Peking Rundscau
Jun. 10, 1975
La Chine en Construction.
"Chinese Expedition Again
Ascends World's Highest Peak."
China Reconstructs, p.26-39 (in
English).
"Siegreiche Bezwingung des
Tscholmolungma," p.11-15.
1975
Correspondence between
Bolinder and C.M.A. regarding
the Chinese ascent of Everest.
"Di Ritamo sulla piu alta cima del
mundo," p.2-7, no.8.
Chinese Ascent
La Cina
Everest: 19781981
Chinese Ascent
Basque Expedition
1974
Dec. 1975
British Expedition
1975
Japanese
Expedition
1975
"Chinese on Everest," p.36
Alpinismus (in German).
Pyrenaica Federation VoscoNavarra de Montanismo #4.
El Everest Conquistado por su
Cara mas Dificil. Suroeste Fare.
1975 British Expedition (in
Spanish).
Photo book of Japanese 1975
Ascent. "Everest the Way of
Women" Junko Tabei, p.128.
New Zealand
Expedition
1977
Expedition reports.
British-Nepalese
Army Expedition
1976
Ascent. Newsletter and official
report.
Korean Expedition
1977
Clippings and book.
Korean Expedition
New Zealand
Expedition
1977
2 clippings and 1 book.
1977
Bolinder Collection
1978
China Sports
Magazine
1978
Austrian Expedition
1978
Expedition reports.
Bolinder collection regarding
Messner and Hebeler climb
without oxygen
"Mt. Julmolungma Welcomes
Guests from Afar," p.14. Article
about climbing group from Iran.
Bolinder correspondence with
Messner "Everest-Chronik" (in
German).
Himalayan Chronik
1953-1958
Leica Fotografie
1979
Everest '79
1979
Yugoslavian
Expedition
1979
Alpinismus
Alpinismus
Jan. 1979
Feb. 1979
Preliminary report.
Magnificent panorama from top
of Everest - Nepalese view.
P.27-34 (2 copies).
Panorama.
Expedition
1979
Erfolg und Tragik on Mt.
Everest.
1975
Mount Everest-records of
climbs.
"I am Standing on Mount
Everest." Swiss. Robert
Allenbach. P.22-27, 47 (English
edition).
Signatures of climbers
(Yugoslavian?).
Sagarmatha
Chronology
Austrian Expedition
Everest: 19821983
1978
1978
"The Rising Nepal." 25th
anniversary special supplement,
May 29, 1978.
First ascent - clippings.
Newspaper clippings, 25th
anniversary.
Austrian Expedition
Japanese
Expedition
1978
1980
Basque Expedition
1980
1980
Ascent from North - clippings.
Letters and articles on Mallory
and Irvine. Confirmation of
Chinese climb.
"Cimas" (2 copies).
Basque Expedition
Everest '80
Italian-Czech
Czech Magazine
Article
British Expedition
New Zealand
Expedition
1980
1980
1980
Expedition Vasca Everest.
Italian brochure.
Svet V. Obrazech 7, 1981.
1980
1980
"D'Loucha Cesta" by Jiri Novak.
Winter expedition brochure.
1981
American Expedition
1981
American Medical
Expedition
1981
Expedition report.
American expedition to East
Face. Correspondence between
Bolinder and George Lowe.
American Medical Research
Expedition to Everest.
Expedition report.
Japanese
Expedition
Everest the Hard
Way
1980
1981
1982
Catalana Expedition
1982
La Vanguardian
Japanese
Expedition
1982/1983
1982/1983
British Expedition to
China
1982
Catalan Expedition
1982
Soviet Climb of
Everest
French Expedition to
China
Meij University. West Ridge.
A recording of "Everest the Hard
Way."
Spanish newspaper clippings
and brochure.
Everest Climbs, Nov. 1982.
Conquest of Everest, Jul. 1983
Kato winter expedition brochure.
British Mount Everest expedition
to China. Chris Bonington.
Brochure and report.
Expedicio Catalan a l'Everest brochure.
1983
Gymnastics and Sports
Magazine. Russian.
French Alpine Style Expedition
to China, report (in French).
Expedicion Catalana
1983
Clippings. Qomolangma '83.
Catalan Expedition
1983
Clippings.
1982
Barcelona
Muntanya
Everest: 19841985
1983
1983
Caixa de Barcelona A l'Everest,
Vessant Tibes (English and
Spanish). Group picture.
#726 v.89
American Expedition
1983
San Francisco
Sunday Examiner
1983
American men and women on
Everest, West Ridge in Spring.
Expedition brochure.
"Two More Yanks Scale
Everest." May 15, 1983. Gary
Neptune and Jim States.
Everest Article
1983
"Wilderness Experience."
Canadian
Expedition
1983
American Expedition
Nov. 14, 1983
Book Manuscript
American Honda
Magazine
1983
Main Street
Dec. 1983
Swiss Expedition
Norwegian
Expeditions
Nepalese American
Cleaning Expedition
Apr. 4, 1983
1983
1983/1984/1985
"Everest East Face" Andrew
Harvard manuscript (1990).
"Honda Winch on Everest," p.89, March 1994.
St. Francis Yacht Club
Magazine. Two Members on
Everest: John Boyle and Jay
Cassell.
Illustrazione Tieinese, p.9.
Eight Norwegian Magazines,
various articles.
1984
Nepal Police Report.
Winds of Everest, PAL
Production. China/Everest,
North Wall. Lou Whitaker.
Everest trip members. Lou
Whitaker.
Bulgarian Expedition
1984
Revue 5/1984.
Bulgarian Expedition
Dutch Expedition
Czechoslovakian
Expedition
22nd Special Air
Service Regiment
Expedition
1984
1984
Expedition report.
Expedition report, South Col.
1984
Russian route, expedition report.
Ultima Thule
1984
Article about Everest 1984
American attempt.
Aug. 1984
"Terrors and Joys of Climbing
Qomolungma," p.47-49. Review
of Chinese Climbs.
American-Chinese
Expedition
Chinese-American
Expedition
China Reconstructs
1984
Everest -Canadian expedition.
Travel Times-souvenier edition.
"Mount Everest Pure and
Simple" by Galen Rowell. Sports
Illustrated, p.88.
1984
1984
Cumbrian
Expedition
Paris Adventure
Magazine
Everest: 19861987
South Korean
Expedition
Japanese and
Polish Expedition
North Face
Research
Expedition
1984
1985
1984/1985/1986
1986
1986
British clippings, Cumbrian
Everest expedition.
French North Col. Paris
Adventure, May 1985, p.38.
Henry Winston.
Winter expedition report. 19851986 Everest Korean winter,
South Face expedition report.
1984/1985 Everest Korean
winter expedition report.
Japanese-South Col. PolishExpedition report, west ridge.
Search for Mallory and Irvine,
expedition brochure.
North Col-newspaper clippings,
signed postcard.
American Expedition
Canadian Solo
Expedition
1986
British Expedition
1986
Spanish Expedition
1986
Newspaper clippings.
NE Ridge attempt, newspaper
clipping and letter from Paul
Nunn.
Spanish Spring North
Expedition. "Un laboratorio en el
Everest" Nature Magazine, Oct.
1986, p.6-13.
Spanish Expedition
1986
Expedition brochure.
Swiss Expedition
Expedition Espanola
de Alpinismo
1986
U.S. Expedition
1986
Jean Troillet and Loretan. North
Face in 40 hours (autographed).
Expedition brochure (expedition
did not go).
U.S. Everest North Face
Expedition (attempt). Joe
Murphy , letter and expedition
report.
Peter Weber
1986
Book of sketches.
American Expedition
1986
Sharon Wood - First
North American
Woman on Top
1986
French Expedition
1986
Northeast ridge expedition
report.
"First North American Woman
on Top." Vancouver Magazine.
March 1986, p.99-105. Sharon
Wood.
Various articles and newspaper
clippings.
Swedish Expedition
1987
Collection of A. Bolinder.
1986
1986
Everest: 19871988
American Expedition
1987
Chinese-American
Expedition
1987
American Way
Magazine
Basque Expedition
1987/1988
1987
American North Face expedition
report, Scott Fischer.
China Everest-1987 American
North expedition, brochure and
expedition report.
"Gathering Before Everest" by
Eliz Kaufmann. American Way
Magazine, Nov. 1988, p.108.
Expedition brochure.
Roger Marshall
1987
EU. K2-CNR
1987
"Solo Challenging the World's
Highest Peaks" by Roger
Marshall (manuscript copy).
"Which is the Highest Mountain
in the World?" Professor Ardito
Desio. Report of expedition
(autographed).
Kaiku Expedition
1987
"Kaiku expedition espedizioa
Everest" expedition brochure.
American Expedition
1987
American Expedition
Spanish Expedition
1987
1987
Epson Expedition
1988
Outside Magazine
1988
Outside Magazine
1988
Expedition report.
Everest American Snowbird
Expedition.
Expedition report.
Epson Everest expedition.
Barcelona Travel & Ski. Nov.
1988, p.60-73.
"The Summit of Hype: Race to
Put American Woman on Top"
by David Roberts. Outside
Magazine, Oct. 1988, p.41-47,
98-102.
"First American Woman on
Everest." Outside Magazine,
Jan. 1989, p.32. Stacy Allison
and Peggy Luce.
1988
"The Allure of Everest." World
Magazine, March 1988, p.28-35.
1986 American North Face
Expedition, Mark Jenkins.
Outside Magazine
1988
American Women on Everest Summit of Hype. Outside
Magazine, May 1988.
Kanshung Face
1988
British Expedition
Northwest American
1988
1988
World Magazine
Kanshung Face, Stephen
Venables.
British Services Everest
Expedition, brochure and
correspondence.
Stacy Allison.
University of
Georgia
Epson Expedition
1988
1988
Barcelona
1988
Everest 88 Epson
1988
Catelan Expedition
1988
Sports Illustrated
1988
Montagnes
Magazine
1988
Expedition Everest '88, "Arita
Oeste."
"Un Somni fet realitat." Travel &
Ski Magazine, Nov. 1989, p.6273.
South Col ascent, newspaper
clippings.
"Cold Courage," Sports
Illustrated, Jan. 16, 1989, p.6274. 1988 East Face. Ed
Webster.
"En Direct de l'Everest,"
Montagnes #109, Nov. 1988,
p.58-63. Marc Batard le
Solitaire.
1988
"Les Folies de l'Everest" Alpi
Rando Magazine #116, Dec.
1988 p.44.
Alpi Rando
Magazine
Everest 19881990
British Expedition
Tri National
Expedition
Multinational
Ascents
1988
1988
1988
Marc Batard
East Face expedition.
Everest '88-The North East
Ridge, "The Last Best
Challenge."
Objectives of Tri National
Expedition to Sagarmatha.
Newspaper clippings.
"Le Sprinter de l'Everest" by
Marc Batard.
Wyoming Centennial Everest
Expedition.
Wyoming Expedition
1988
Cowboys of Everest
1988
The Tab
Expedition Espanol
1988
1988
Korean Expedition
On Top of Everest
1988
1989
Belgium
1989
French-Belgium
1989
Grupo Militar
1989
American Expedition
1989
Polish Expedition
1989
Winter expedition.
Article.
"Weer pech voor Huyberects op
de Mount Everest."
Montagne #121, p.46-60. Tott de
Monde.
Article, "Grupo Militar de Alta
Montana" Verano 1989.
Correspondence from the
American fall expedition.
Newspaper clippings about the
West Ridge Polish tragedy.
Polish Expedition
1989
Burial mission.
Brochures and files.
Climbing Mount Everest. The
Tab v.1, no.21, Dec. 1988.
Expedition Espanol al Everest.
Chile Expedition
Alpi Rendo
Magazine
Expedition
Aragonesa
1989
1989
Soviet Expedition
Everest
1989
1989
Adventure Magazine
1985
International Peace
Climb
Mount Everest
Foundation
1990
1990
VMA, Dec. 1989
Everest "Tragedie Polaraise,"
Alpi Rendo magazine, Oct.
1989.
Clippings.
Soviet expedition to LhotseEverest.
Everest la Prima Diretta.
French North Col, p.38. Pierre
Beghin.
Mount Everest Fourth Day 20
International Peace climb,
brochures and clippings.
Royal Geographic
Society
1990
Annual Report - 1989/1990
Sir George Everest Bicentenary.
"10 Everest Heros Relive
Highlights of their
Achievements" Nov. 1990.
Nepalese Army
1990
Arg Retas 6th ascent.
1990
1990
Newspaper clippings.
Expedition brochure.
1990
1990
Post expedition report.
Signed postcard.
Nepalese Army
New Zealand
Expedition
Basque Expedition
1990
American Expedition
Basque Expedition
Japanese
Expedition
1991
1991
Newspaper clippings.
Spring expedition, North Face.
Newspaper clippings.
Expedition brochure.
American North Face attempt.
Brochure and clippings,
Expedition brochure.
Belgian Expedition
1991
Australian
Geographic
1991
Expedition
Valenciana
1991
Brussels
Newspapers
Basque Expedition
Everest
Environmental
Expedition
Slovenia Expedition
Everest: 19911992
1989
1991
1991
1991
Photos fron the top of Everest.
"Impossible - Well Do It" Belgian
brochure.
"From the Sea to the Top of the
World." Tim McCartney-Snope.
5 Feb. 1990. Solo Climb.
Australian Geographic #23,
Sept. 1991.
Expedition Valenciana al
Himalaya - Everest 1991,
Spanish brochure.
Everest: 1993
Japanese
Expedition
1991/1992
Chile Expedition
1992
Washingtonian
Magazine
1992
Japan Gunma winter expedition,
Sagarmatta, SW face.
El Desafio de on Sueno. Chile
Expedition Everest 1992. "The
Challenge of a Dream."
"Climbing Everest"
Washingtonian Magazine, Nov.
1992, p.70.
North Rdige
Expedition
1992
Spring North Ridge expedition,
report, Dan Larson
(autographed).
Chile Expedition
1992
Spanish Expedition
1992/1993
Outside Magazine
1992
Everest Expedition
1992
American-Lithuanian
Expedition
Spanish Expedition
1992
1992
CAI-Everest
Jonathan Pratt
1992
1992
International
Expedition
1993
The Sunday Review
1994
Taiwan Expedition
1992
London BBC
Lithuanian
Expedition
1993
International Expedition. North
East College Magazine.
"The Odd Man and the
Mountain" by Peter Gillman. 5
June, 1994, p.4. (Article about
Jonathan Pratt.)
Taiwan Chomolungmaexpedition 1992 (in Taiwanese).
"We Will Stamp to the Top of the
World with the Wind in our
Teeth." by Graham Hayland.
London BBC, Radio play script,
Summit 1993.
1993
Magazine articles and clippings.
1993
Women's expedition report.
Indian-Nepalese
Women's Expedition
Kangshung Face. "El Desafriode
un Sueno."
Winter ascent - solo without
oxygen. Report and
correspondence.
"Sitting Down on Everest" by
Pierees Tardivel. Outside
Magazine, February 1993, p.1516.
Measuring altitude, Baume and
Mercier.
Expedition brochure.
Expedition brochure.
Scienze e Alpinismo-Everest
1992, measurement. CAI La
Revista, March 1993, p.29-39.
French Military
Expedition
Basque-Arabako
Expedition
Everest: 19941996
1993
Report.
1993
Expedition brochure.
Spanish Expedition
1993
Newspaper clippings.
Everest-40th
Anniversary
1993
Irish Ascent
1993
Articles.
First Irish ascent-expedition
report.
Basque Expedition
1993
El Rincon
1993
Irish Mountain Log
1993
British Expedition
1993/1994
American Expedition
Canadian
Expedition
British Medical
Expedition
1994
Spanish Expedition
British-International
Expedition
British Medical
Expedition
"Everest Without
Mercy"
Anniversaries of
Climbs
1994
Basque fall expedition brochure.
"El Techno del Mundo" El
Rincon, Mayo 1993, expedition
report.
North Col Ascent-Irish Mountain
Log #28, Autumn 1993.
40th Anniversary, British
Expedition brochure and report.
London Boardman Magazine,
June issue (autographed).
Rebecca Stevens, first British
woman.
Spring East Face attempt-David
Breashears. Brochure and
clippings.
Spring Canadian Expedition brochure and clippings.
1994
Brochure.
1994
Cara Norte-brochure.
1994
Brochure and postcard.
1994
Expedition report.
"Everest Without Mercy" by
Broughton Coburn.
Advertisement for Breashears
film.
Various clippings and cards on
anniversaries of climbs.
1994
no year
Spanish Expedition
1995
American Expedition
1995
Mallory
1995
Prospectus and clippings and
report of death.
"Measuring the Roof of the
World" Explorer's Journal, v.73
#4, p.18-23.
Aspen Times article on George
Mallory. John Mallory visit to
Mount Everest base camp
(autographed).
Allison Hargreaves
1995
Beck WeathersPeople Magazine
1996
Sandy PittmanVanity Fair
1996
British woman climbs Everest newspaper articles.
"Dead Man Climbing" by Peter
Carlin. People Magazine, June
17, 1996, p.48-51. Article about
Beck Weathers.
"Snow Blind Ambition" Vanity
Fair, August 1996, p.80-85.
Article about Sandy Pittman.
1996
"The Story on Everest" by Jon
Krakauer. Outside Magazine,
Sept. 1996,
American TragedyOutside Magazine
1996
"American Tragedy at the Top of
the World" Outside Magazine,
p.20-22.
Everest Disaster
1996
Everest climbing disaster.
Life Magazine
1996
Time Magazine
1996
"What Really Happened on
Everest." Life Magazine, 1996.
"Death Storm on Everest" Time
Magazine, May 27, 1996, p.3638.
Spanish Expedition
South African
Expedition
1996
Expedition report and brochure.
1996
Everest Climb
Hong Kong
Expedition
1996
Assorted
1996
Time Magazine
1997
Outside Magazine
1997
Spring ascent.
1996 Everest climb-assorted
cards and clippings.
Two person Hong Kong ascent,
letter and clippings.
Newspaper clippings, emails
and articles.
"The Gods Must be Angry" by
Rod Norland, Time Magazine,
May 26, 1997, p.44-45.
"False Summit: A Year Later."
Outside Magazine, May 1997,
p.57-62/147-149.
Jon KrakauerOutside Magazine
Everest: 1996
1997
Life Magazine
1996
Newsweek
Magazine
1996
"Death on the Mountain" by
Claudia Gelnn Dowling. Life
Magazine, Aug. 1996, p.32-46.
"Trapped on Everest" p.50-57.
"A Case of Altitude Chicness?"
by David Gates and Susan
Miller, p.58. May 27, 1996.
1996
"The Death Zone" by Petper
Wilkinson. Men's Journal, Aug.
1996, p.36-46.
1996
"Into Thin Air" by Jon Krakauer.
Outside Magazine, Sept. 1996,
p.46-66/158-163.
Men's Journal
Outside Magazine
Misc.
Men's Journal
1997
Vanity Fair
1996
Time Magazine
1996
Vogue Magazine
1996
Japanese
Various Mountains
Play
List of Expeditions
A. Bolinder
Collection
Articles of
Famous
Mountaineers
K2-Chogori
1968
"Everest the Aftermath" by Peter
Wilkinson. Men's Journal, May
1997, p.40-46/101-106.
"Snow Blind Ambition" Vanity
Fair, Aug. 1996, p.80-85/143147.
"Death Storm on Everest" by
David van Biema. Time
Magazine, May 27, 1996, p.3637.
"Cliffhanger" by Sandy Hill
Pittman, Vogue Magazine, Aug.
1996, p.226-231/284-285.
Magazines and publications
regarding mountaineering.
Photo of Haruo Kato-various
mountains.
Stage play regarding Everest.
List of Himalayan expeditions.
Mount Everest photographs.
Terres Unsoeld
Eric Escoffier
Yvon Chouinard
Reinhold Messner
Willi Unsoeld
Lou Reichardt
Chris Bonington
Hari Ahluwalia
Hans Kammerlander
Fritz Stammberger
Doug Scott
Austrian Climbers
Toits du Monde
Erhard Loretan
1991
1993
1995
American Expedition
1938
5280 Denver Mile
High Magazine
Nov./Dec. 1993
14-8000m.
14-8000m.
"One Last Mountain to Climb by
Edie Clark. Yankee Magazine,
May 1997, p.50. Story of
American 1938 expedition with
House, Bates and Houston.
"Tragedy on K2" p.32-39. "K2's
Twin Tragedies" (Jack Durrance
and the 1939 expedition) by
Mike McPhee.
American Expedition
1978
Reports in English and German,
clippings (Reichardt, Wickwire,
Ridgeway and Roskelley).
Alpinismus
Magazine
Oct. 1981
"Kein Lohn fur Angst K2" by
Reinhard Karl, p.46-53.
British Expedition
American-Australian
Expedition
1986
Reader's Digest
Feb. 1994
Catalan Expedition
1993
American-Polish
Expedition
1994
Reebok Expedition
1994
1990
Spanish Climb
Spanish Climb
1995
Tragedy on K2
1995
American Northwest
Ridge Expedition
1995
"Savage Mountain-Savage
Summer" by John Barry (jacket
cover for book).
K2 the North Ridge. Three
copies of expedition brochure.
"Quest for K2" by Peter
Potterfield, p.104. (Ed Vieturs,
Scott Fisher, Cherky Mare-1992
expedition).
Expedition brochure-"Expedicio
de Terrassa A1 K2."
K2 the Unclimbed Face. 1994
International Expedition
(American-Polish). Kutyka,
Wieliki and Carlos Buhler - letter
to John Boyle.
The North Ridge of K2, Adrian
Burgess, leader-brochures and
correspondence.
Jordi Angles, climb K2-Makalu
(in Spanish).
4 Esquinas la Revista de
Huesca #91, Sept. 1995. "La
Cima Del K2 Recuerdos Para
Siempre."
The American Alpine News, v.7
#211, Oct. 1995, p.18. Tragedy
on K2, 7 climbers die on K2.
K2 The Savage Mountain.
American Northwest ridge
expedition (unsuccessful).
Envelopes with brochures,
postcard and letters.
John Boyle-Dee
Molenaar
Correspondence regarding
parka found on K2. Whose
jacket? Gilkey?
Club Alpino Italiano
1954
Revista Mensile-Club Alpino
Italiano- vol.LXXIII 1954,
Numero Speciale Dedicato A1
K2.
Rivista Mensile
1955
Rivista Mensile
Rivista Mensile
1956
1956
Club Alpino Italiano
Magazines:
Everest
Newspapers Articles
1995
Polish Expedition
1976
Everest 25th
Anniversary
1960
Explorer's Journal
1984
Outdoors Illustrated
Jun./Jul. 1992
Balloons & Airships
Winter
1991/1992
Ballonos & Airships
Jan. 1993
Montagnes
Jun.1992
3-4.
9-10.
Museo Naztionale Della
Montagna. Club Alpino Italiano.
Envelope with historical reords
and clippings.
Eseven newspapers with articles
of Allison Hargreaves death on
K2, 1995 (English).
Clippings and correspondence
on 1976 Polish expedition to K2.
Everest 25th Anniversary 19531978, first day of issue stamps,
June 30, 1960.
"Measuring Mount Everest" by
Peter V. Angus-Leppan.
Explorer's Journal, n.62, no.1.
Mar/Apr/May 1984, p.37-43.
"Pushing Out the EnvelopeBallooning Over Mount Everest"
Outdoors Illustrated, v.2 no.9,
p.66-71.
"The Conquest of Everest"
(Balloon). Interview with Andy
Elson-pilot. Balloons & Airships
#6, p.41-45.
"Of Cabbages and Kings." Leo
Dickinson - daredevil
cameraman, flight over Everest.
Balloons & Airships #11, p.4245.
"8 Minutes sur l'Everest"
(French). Balloon flight over
Everest-Leo Dickinson.
Montagnes #149, p.34-41.
"Gros plan sur un pole
l'Everest." (French).
Vertical
Montagnes
Nov.1985
Aerostat
Feb.1992
Amateur
Photographer
14 Mar.1992
National Geographic
Nov.1988
"La Trop Grande Neige"
(French). Pierre and Annie
Geghin. Montagnes, p.70-73.
"Over Everest" (Balloon). Leo
Dickinson. Aerostat, v.23 no.1,
p.27-29.
"On Top of the World" (Balloon).
Leo Dickinson-flight over
Everest. p.28-29.
"Exploring Cradle Earth"-aerial
photos of Everest by William
Everest Misc.
K2: 1939-1956
Aerostat
Feb.1993
Himalaya Fuhrer
A.Bolinder
Collection
1986-1988
List of Expeditions
1968
Adrian Flynn
1993
American Expedition
1997
American Expedition
1938-1953
K2
1939
Thompson. "The Mighty
Himalaya" by Barry Bishop.
"Heavy Hands on the Land" by
Larry kohl and Galen Rowell.
"Mapping Mount Everest" by
Bradford Washington.
"Ballooning Over Everest" Leo
Dickinson. Aerostat, v.24 #1,
p.39.
Mount Everest Guidebooks
(1,2,3,4).
Mount Everest photographs.
5280 Denver Mile
High Magazine
1993
Outside Magazine
Oct.1984
List of Himalayan Expeditions.
"Burning Everest" by Adrian
Flynn. Stage play manuscripts.
11 Nov.-4 Dec. 1993.
Story of 1938 American
Expedition with House-BatesHouston. Yankee Magazine,
May 1997, p.50.
Expedition correspondence,
planning, finances, and letters.
Charles Houston.
"Tragedy on K2" by Jack
Durrance. The 1939 expedition.
5280 Denver Mile High
Magazine, nov./Dec. 1993, p.3239. "K2 Twin Tragedies" by Mike
McPhee. 5280 Denver Mile High
Magazine.
"The K2 Mystery" by David
Roberts. Outside Magazine.
Saturday Evening
Post
1940
Saturday Evening
Post
1953
1939 K2 American Expedition.
"Lost Behind the Ranges"
Saturday Evening Post, 1940,
p.9-128.
"We Met Death on K2" by
Robert Bates. Saturday Evening
Post. Photos of climbers, Pan
American Airlines.
Feb.1984
Italian Preliminary Expedition to
K2, Revista Mensile by Ardito
Desio.
1954
Special on K2, Revista Mensile,
Club Alpino Italiano, v.LXXIII
1954.
Italian Preliminary
Expedition
Club Alpino Italiano
K2: 1957-1987
Life Magazine
1954
Revista Mensile
1956
Club Alpino Italiano
Polish Expedition
1956
1976
Polish Expedition
1976
National Geographic
1978
Life Magazine
1954
"Italians Conquer K2" Life
Magazine, v.37 #5, p.29-35.
La Spedizione al K2 by Prof.
Ardito Desio. Revista Mensile,
v.LXXV no.5-6 1956.
Revista Mensile, Club Alpino
Italiano. V.LXXV p.79#3-4,
v.LXXV p.293 #9-10.
Clippings and correspondence.
Expedition photos, clippings,
report and magazine article.
"Americans Climb K2" National
Geographic Magazine, May
1979, p.623-649.
"Italians Conquer the
Unclimbable Peak" Life
Magazine, Oct.11, 1954.
American Expedition
1978
American K2 expedition, "Happy
New Year", signed photos of
team.
American Expedition
1978
Karakorum in winter
Swiss-International
Expedition
1981
Karakorum in winter. Alpinismus
Magazine, Oct.1981. "Kein Lohn
fur Angst K2" p.46-53.
1985
Expedition report.
French Expedition
1985
Savage Mountain
1986
International
Expedition
1986
French expedition to K2.
Vertical, Oct.1985, p.34-35. Eric
Escoffier.
"Savage Mountain" (jacket cover
for book) by John Barry. British
expedition.
K2 International expedition -Kurt
Diemberger. Montagna, April
1988, p.24-31.
American Expedition
1986
South Pillar Expedition.
American Expedition
1986
American Expedition
American Expedition
1978
1986
Expedition clippings.
Reichardt-Wickwire-RidgewayRuskelley. Reports in English
and German, clippings and
photographs.
Expedition brochure and report.
Bunte Magazine
Bunte Magazine
Patrick Meyers
K2-GasherbrumEverest
Sept.1986
1986
1986
1987
"Der K2" Bunte Magazine #36,
p.10-16.
Willi Bauer.
"K2" a play by Patrick Meyers.
K2-Gasherbrum-Everest. Kroky,
Zpatky. Stadion, 1987, p.21-25.
K2:1988-1995
American-Australian
Expedition
1990
Reader's Digest
Feb.1994
Catalan Expedition
1993
American-Polish
International
Expedition
1994
Reebok Expedition
1994
Letter to John Boyle. "K2 the
Unclimbed Face." "What's a
Dream Worth."
K2 The North Ridge-Reebok K2
Expedition. Brochures and
correspondence. Adrian
Burgess, leader.
Jordi Angles
1995
Climbs K2/Makalu (Spanish).
La Cima del K2
1995
American Alpine
News
Oct.1995
American Expedition
1995
John Boyle/Dee
Molenaar
1998
4 Esquinas la Revista de
Huesea #91, Sept.1995. La
Cima del K2 (Spanish).
"Tragedy on K2" - 7 climbers
die. American Alpine News #7,
211, p.18.
American Northwest Ridge
Expedition (unsuccessful). K2
the Savage Mountain.
Brochures, postcards and
letters.
Correspondence between John
Boyle and Dee Molenaar
regarding a parka found on K2.
Possibly belonging to Art Gilkey
1955
La Spedizione del K2. Revista
Mensile-Club Alpino Italiano
LXXIV, p.278.
Club Alpino Italiano
Museo Nazionale
della Montagna
1994
Allison Hargreaves
1995
John Boyle/Steve
Swenson
Russian,
Correspondence,
Postcards.
"K2: The North Ridge"-brochure
and correspondence.
"Quest for K2" (article about
1992 expedition-Ed Viesturs,
Scott Fisher-Charley Mace) by
Peter Potterfield. Reader's
Digest, p.104.
"Expedicio de Terrassa A1 K2"expedition brochures.
Kurt Diemberger
John Boyle
Correspondence with John
Boyle. Historical records and
clippings.
Newspaper articles regarding
Allison Hargreaves' death on K2.
Postcard to John Boyle from
Steve Swenson regarding a
"hopeful attempt."
Postcards to John Boyle.
Correspondence miscellaneous articles.
Seven Summits
John Boyle
Collection John
Boyle
Russian
Seven Summits
Seven Summits
1993
Postcards and correspondence.
Material from Russia via Charles
Clark from E. Gippenreitter.
Articles.
Correspondence to John Boyle.
General
Vinson Massif
Mt. Aconcagua
Mt. Kosciusko
Mt. Kilamanjaro
Mt. Elbrus
Mt. McKinley
Mt. Everest
Everest:
Oversize
Climbers
IMAX
"Geography of China", "Edward
Bekker Programme", "Frank
(cartoon of Mount Everest)",
"Cooperative TrekkingSherpa/Nepal", "Exploring the
Himalaya by R.C. Sharma",
"Parbat-Nepal Mountain
Association News Bulletin vol.1,
no.1 1994", "Himal Magazine,
Nov./Dec. 1992", "Adventures of
Tintin in Tibet (comic book)".
Ballooning Over Everest - IMAX
script.
Washington Post
Magazine
Everest
2004
1993
Himalaya/Everest, the
Washington Post Magazine,
Nov.28, 2004.
Newspaper articles.
Everest
1936
Everest
1924
Pamphlets on
Himalayas
Chris Bonington
Lou Reichardt
Willi Unsoeld
1991
London News - articles.
Photographs, correspondence,
negatives.
Book jackets for "The Everest
Years: A Climber's Life" and
"Ultime Defi" (Spanish).
Magazine articles.
"Willi - An Evening of Wilderness
and Spirit" (play manuscript).
Magazine articles and
correspondence.
Reinhold Messner
Eric Escoffier
Terres Unsoeld
Fritz Stammberger
1991
Doug Scott
Pierre & Annie
Beghin
1994
Nov.1985
Articles and letter to John Boyle.
"Making My Way in the Dark"
(play manuscript).
Newspaper articles.
American Alpine News, no.204,
p.11.
"La Trop Grande Neige"
(French). Montagnes, p.70-73.
This finding aid was compiled by Erin Peach, University of Denver Graduate Student, 2009, AAC Library intern under the
supervision of Gary Landeck, Library Director, and Beth Heller, Preservation Librarian
st
Box: Manaslu, Folder: 1956 Manaslu 1 Ascent – Summit Photos.
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