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THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA
February 1995
Volume 23 Issue
Vancouver lsland Section
,Repont from the
Pnesident
Ian Brown
It
for me in the mountains
and I hope it was as good for you. My chiefpoint ofpride
in the executive is that you again had a full schedule of
trips. We all owe our thanks to Dave Tansley and the
dozens ofvolunteer leaders. I would like to remind you
that your leaders are to be treated as mere trrp organizers. Club members are expected to be self-contained
and self-reliant in the hills. Members and leaders on a
trip might help with skills and information that you do
not know, but they are not mountain guides and will do
so only out of the kindness of their hearts. Teaching
has been a great year
skills and ensuring safety are not an obligation ofa leader
in the Alpine Club.
We have had our usual complement of lree instructional sessions for members: avalanche awareness
and avalanche safety, ski tuning, rock climbing, and
glacier travel and crevasse rescue. Many thanks to the
instructors who volunteered their time and took a
weekend away from their own mountaineering.
Your executive, with the help ofthe Federation of
Mountain Clubs, settled a problem with the Ministry of
Forests about our right to build trails. It seemed as ifthe
Ministry was going to make it very difficult for us to
clear hiking trails via a complicated permit system
enforced by the new Forest Practices Code. We now
have their assurances that the regulations to the Code
will be written so that the mere clearing of brush and
windfalls to make a path will not be considered "trail
building" for the purposes of the Code
The Federation of Mountain Clubs of 8.C., our
voice for lobbying and environmental issues with the
government, has been going through some upheavals
this year. As a result, there will be a meeting at the end
of February to decide what the member clubs want the
The lsland Bushwhacker Update
I
Federation to be doing and what we want the executive
director to be doing with her time. fue there issues of
access or conservation you want the Federation to get
behind? Do you want something different in the way of
instructional schooling? If so, contact Sandy Brigs, our
representative, before the meeting.
The club is proud ofits record ofmountaineering
without accidents. Let's keep it that way Borrow the
club's gear: ropes,harnesses, helmets, pieps, shovels,
probes, etc. or get your own and come out to an
instructional trip to learn how to use them.
See
you in the hills this year. Good climbingl
EWNTS
SELF RESCUE COURSE
March 11-12
(on
it v,as inedvertently printed a,s
Februarl' I I-12)
Phone Kris Holm (177-8596) or Slipstream Adventures (388-0633) soon if you wish to register as
course is filling up
the schedule
Vancouver Section Ski Camp
March 11-18
March 18-25
The ACC Vancouver section has organized a ski camp
and has several slots available. The camp is over a twoweek period: March I 1-18 and 18-25. Participants can
go for one or two weeks. It' s at McGllivray Pass which
is northeast of Whistler The cost will be about $450
which includes helicopter (fly irVfly out) and cabin fees
February 1995
Page
1
,994-gIE NXNCUTIVN
Chair:
......
Secretary:
Treasurer:
Editors:....
Ian Brown
Reinhard Illner
Julie Thomson
Kayla Stevenson
Russ Moir
Martin Davis
(388-4s84)
(477-007A)
(36r-e622)
Judy Holm
(477-8se6)
(727-2480)
(271-3783)
(6s2-t3e7)
Memhership:
Editorial:
FMCBC:
Sandy Briggs
Main Club: Claire Ebendinger
Climbing: .. Dave Tansley
and participants are responsible for their own food.
Contact person is Calvin Osborne, home telephone
number (604) 877-2258.
ACC Annual Banquet
7 April
(6s2-rsoe)
(382-8s74)
Members at Large:
Maija Finvers Dennis Manke
Doug Goodman Gerta Smythe
Greg
1330 Burleith Crescent, Victoria B.C.
at a very nice private cabin. This is a self guided camp
(se2-4e7e)
VgA 484
Gordon
Anne Webster
lssN
0822-9473
100 members, many of them active climbers.
Successful club trips, most of them full throughout
the summer. Winter and Summer '95 trips are
getting booked fast. Call early to reserve a space.
A balanced budget and financial plan to 1 999.
Focus on communication between sections and with
the National Club.
The Annual Banquet this year will be held on Friday,
April 7 at Norway House on Hillside Avenue. Cocktails
at 6:00 p.m., dinner at 7'.00 p.m., followed by a slide
presentation by Sandy Briggs on his trip across Baffin
Island. Cost: $22. Call Gerta Smythe to reserve your
seat.478-7369
Safety: there have been a few accidents this year
involving club members, resulting in death and injuries. Please remember to put safety at the top ofyour
list when you are out on trips.
lhtional
User fees in the Rocky Mountain parks is still under
negotiation with the Parks Branch.
CIub hltews
Claire Ebendinger
The main items of the October meeting of the
Board of Directors are:
Have an enjoyable and safe winter in the mountainsl
Additions b theSeefron Librany
IVew
Expansion of the Alpine Centre in Lake Louise.
It
has been fully booked from June to October (105
beds). The ACC has a30Yo share in this facility with
the Hostelling Association holding the rest of the
shares, It is a great place to stay in, or visit, ifyou are
in the area.
Judrth Holm
The followingbooks have been kindly donated by
Mrs. M. Mitchell ftomthe collection ofherlatehusband,
Dr W.E.M. Mitchell:
The addition of a new section, Saskatchewan, with
The lsland Bushwhacker Update
February 1995
Page 2
Round Mystery Mountain
Sir Norman Watson and E.J. King
Memoirs of a
S. Chapman
Mountaineer
Peter Graham, Mountain Guide an autobiography
Nanga Parbat
M
Karl
Herrligkoffer
Romance of the National Parks Harlean James
Wilderness
Rockwell Kent
Tenzing of Everest
Yves Malartic
Mqnual of Ski Mountaineering
National Ski Association of America
On the Old Trail
Morley Roberts
Eric Shipton
Upon that Mountain
CIimhs in the C.anadian Rockies
Kamet Conquered
Kangchen jwtga Advenhtre
The Spirit of the Hills
Frank S Smythe
After Everest
T.Howard Somervell
Walhng in the AIp.s
J. Hubert Walker
0n High Hills
Momftain Craft
Mountains u,ith a Dffirence
Geoffrey Winthrop Young
Round Mystery Mountain, published in 1935, is the
account of the first crossing of the Coast Range of
British Columbia. Sir Norman Watson and his party
achieved this in a l93l spring ski mountaineering
expedition from the Homathko River to the Pacific
Ocean. This is a book to treasure
These are fascinating books and we thank both
Mrs. Mitchell and Gil Parker, who made this gift
possible
Thank you Nigel Matthews, for donating Love
and Wqr in the Apennines, by Eric Newby.
Thank you Peter Holloway, for donating the
1989 Sierra Club Ascent
NEW BOOKS
The Canadian Mountcri nee ri ng Anthology
Bruce Fairley, 1994
Sttmmits and lcefields - Alpine Ski Tours in the Rockies
and C.olumbia Mowfiains
Chic Scott, 1994
The lsland Bushwhacker Update
Performance Rock C lim bi ng
Dale Goddard and Udo Neumann,,1993
Climbing in North America
Chris Jones, published for the American Alpine
Club
Tin Tin in Tibet
Herge (for children of all ages)
Cascade Alpine Guide, VoL., 2nd edition
Fred Beckey (vol. 1 is apparently out of print,
we are trying to get a copy.)
History of the trlancouver Island Sectiotr of the Alpine
Chft of C.atnda, I9l2 - I9S2,acopyofthethickbinder
CLAIRE EBENDINGER compiled for our 70th Anniversary.
1994 newsletters from other Alpine Club of Canada
Sections
X** SPECIAL FEATUREIX
Our section's first video of five of our climbs: Because
It was There (2 copies). Produced and donated by Greg
Gordon
C;anadian Summits
Book
Claire Ebendinger has aiready ordered and sold 20
books to our section members The section receives a
40% discount when she orders l0 books or more, which
will be used to expand our section library. Let Claire
know if you want to buy a copy ($25 for members) and
she may order another set of 10 if there is enough
demand. Telephone: 652-15A9
Thanks to Volunteere
As coordinator ofthe 1994 BanffFilms, I thank all
who
helped organize and run the event this year.
those
Rex Andrew was my front man, contacting and doing
liaison with the shops that sold tickets for us and
donated door prizes. Ryan and Julie Thomson made the
tickets. Greg Gordon looked after ticket distribution,
and collection of our $$. Tom and Pam Hall took care
ofposter distribution. Club member and marketer Allen
Agopsowicz of Big City Marketing did the advertising
and poster production, donating much ofhis time. They
all did a great, enthusiastic job.
February 1995
Page 3
Thanks also to those members who helped out on
the nights: Ian Brown, Margaret Brown, Sandy Briggs,
Claire Ebendinger, Judy Holm, Jack Fisher, Kate Darling, Catharine Ascah, Brad Hagen, Colin Wood, Albert
Hestler, Julie Henderson, Rob MacDonald, SylviaMoser,
Russ Moir, Chris Einarson, Mike Kuzyk.
Cheers to you
all, Doug Goodman
Wilderness nit'st Aid
Kit
Workshop
11 January, 1995
rudith Holm
Brooks Hogya of Slipstream Adventures shared
his expertise in a low-key, well-received presentation to
23 ofus. Thank you, Brooks!
He focused on the importance of first acquiring
knowledge ofwilderness first aid in orderto understand
priorities and make sound, life-saving decisions Then
we can decide what we would like to have in a kit.
He said that the most common cause of evacuation on extended wilderness trip s is small wound injuries
which, because of inadequate care and added stresses,
have led to systemic infection. He advised that a small
wound be flushed thoroughly with clean water, then
covered with a sterile material (e.g.. opsite, jelonet - any
questions: call Brooks at Slipstream) that will neither
stick to the wound nor allow a scab to form. The sterile
can be then covered with clean, absorbent material to
keep the wound protected and clean. It was a complicated topic as situation are so varied.
Brooks warned about the dangers of administering any drugs, particularly to another person. He
recommended Medicine for Mountaineering & other
Wilderness Activities, 4th Ed published by the Mountaineers, ISBN 0-89886-331-7) as an excellent source
of information As well, back up the knowledge with
your own research with the C.P.S. (Compendium of
Pharmaceuticals and Specialties) available from your
doctor or any pharmacist.
Brooks showed us scissors strong enough to cut
offaring or aboot. He also had a short kutt pocket chain
link saw which is durable and fast to use. The sliver
gripper is better than most tweezers, (My note: These,
The lsland Bushwhacker Update
and many other, products are made by Wilderness
Alert
Safety Products Ltd. Ocean River Sports is one outlet
which carries their products. They sell them for the
same price as the W.A.S.P. mail order service.)
His first aid kit was packaged in zipJocs taped
together. This enables a person to organize the contents, have them clearly visible and only open the
relevant bag. Sadly we noted none ofthe bags contained
that small flask of brandy.
Brooks offered to do another free workshop for
us. People suggested the topic be "prevention/care of
blisters" There could be a number of other free topics
if the interest is there.
We asked Brooks about Slipstream's 40 hour
course on Wilderness First Aid. Several Alpine Club
members have already benefited from this excellent
course. Brooks said that ifwe would like him to do one
for the Alpine Club specifically related to mountaineering, he would be able to give us a reduced price.
If you would be interested in attending a future:
( 1 ) B li st er Workshop and/ or (2) Mount aineering St andard Wilderness First Aid Course (3) have another idea
for a topic
Please call the Holm family at 477-8596, or call
Slipstream - 388-0633 for a brochure on Wilderness
First Aid.
Note: On Alpine Club trips, each person is responsible
for his/her own first aid supplies and safety. We go on
trips as peers who enjoy mountaineering together.
Editor's Note'. See the notice about the Self-Resuce
Course in the Events section
iTlount Non-WhJrmper
Ian Brown
Try this delightful one-day ski trip in the southern Island
Alps. Mount Non-Whymper is marked on all but the
newest topo maps as "Mount Whymper." We have to
assume the "Non-" was removed from the label by
some arrogant type-setter, since the erudite and careful
fellows who make for all but the owners of the newest
maps, Wh_vmper is spelt on your map by a triangle with
a dot in the centre, undoubtedly a spelling lifted from
some ancient and arcane language. This symbol is
smack on the summit of Whymper so it must be pro-
February 1995
Page 4
nounced like the English word "Whymper.
"
To arrive at the Non-Whymper ski trip, choose either
the Chemainus River Bridge on the Island Highway as
your landmark or the famous Fuller Lake Recreational
Centre and start counting stoplights. When you get to
two, turn left onto the Copper Canyon Road which goes
up the Chemainus River to its infinite reaches. At 36.5
kmup this road, turnright to Reinhart Lake (plowed last
winter.) If you turn 0.6 km too soon you will have the
most interesting drive ofyour life. Half a km before the
gate you see a cut basin on your left. Ski up the basin
to its apex, through the forest, across a couple oflogging
roads and up to the top of the ridge to emerge into the
giant clearcut on the southwest side of the ridge.
Contour around this basin into the trees on its northwest
side and go through the trees to the next clearcut basin.
Thepeak you see oppositeyou isMountNon-Whymper.
Descend the basin a bit to reach the peak and climb it by
going up and around the right hand ridge, using gullies
and ledges ofthe peak wherever you find them. In good
snow conditions the descent ofthe peak is a hoot and the
view from the summit is grand (believe me, Pat, when
it's clear ) Except for the peak the whole trip is an easy
ski Enjoy!
Topo: Cowichan Lake, 92 Cl16. Peak at 167228.
BUSITWIIACKDR
BACK.TSSWS
August, 1975
Unnamed Peak in the Sutton Range (5700')
July 5-6, 1975
Participants: John Gibson, reporter, Syd Waus
That trip to the unnamed unclimbed peak in the
Sutton Range, which was postponed from the July 1st
weekend, was successful the following weekend. Syd
Watts and John Gbson climbed the mountain on July
5th. We drove to the end of the White River logging
road on the Friday evening. The logging road goes
about half a mile further up the valley than it did a year
ago and is currently being pushed on along the north
bank ofthe White River, in spite ofthe moratorium. We
The lsland Bushwhacker UPdate
picked our way through the mess offallen trees and then
hiked along the valley flat, using old elk trails, to camp
at the foot ofthe southeast ridge of our mountain. It is
the 5700'summit about 3 miles south of Mount Adam,
and is distinguished by a well defined summit ridge
about half a mile long, with spectacular cliffs falling
sheer from the ridge on the east side to the valley of the
north fork of the White River.
We left camp at 60 a. m. on the Saturday morning,
and the going was easy through timber to about 3500',
then up a broad snow covered ridge to a small col at
4100'. Heretheridge narrowed and steepened and took
on the appearance of an impressive tower looming
ahead, clean and sheer to the right and slightly less steep
with bushy ledges and scree and little rock pitches on the
left. We chose the left side and roped for some of the
way, as there was some exposure, though the climbing
was not hard (grade 2 perhaps). We worked our wayup
by zig-zagging ledges until we emerged on the top of our
tower, which is actually the southern end ofthe summit
ridge olthe mountain. We traversed the ridge, over a
number of minor summits, with impressive views over
the cliffs on our right, and reached the summit soon after
1 p.m., where we basked in really hot sunshine for an
hour, ate our lunch, built a small cairn, and admired the
view, from Mt. Waddinglon away in the distance to the
east, Mt. Schoen to the north, the serrated ridge of
Rugged Mountain across the Nimpkish valley to the
west, the peaks of Strathcona Park to the south, and
dominating the nearer scene a few miles southeast ofus,
the twin peaks of Victoria and Warden. Immediately
south of us was Sutton Peak and an interesting looking
alpine area of lakes and ridges and unnamed summits,
which would certainly justify a visit.
The descent took nearly as long as the climb,
including a pause to cool offin a little pool in a hollow
on the ridge and a delay on the steep part while I went
back in a fruitless search for my watch, which had quietly
unbuckled itself from my wrist, probably when some
gnarled and spiky bush, or perhapsthe coils ofropel was
carrying, brushed against it once too often. So there it
remains, and until the mountain gets an ofiicial name I
shall think of it as the Watchtower.
We got back to our camp at 9.15 p.m. and spent
a second night there, hiking out to the road at dawn the
next day.
February 1995
(Addendum. If you should find John's watch,
Page 5
notify J. H. and I will try to arrange a suitable reward.)
From Eric sanford's article, "Roughing lt on Denali" in the sierra Cluh's
Ascent:
"
'By the way,' I asked my host, "is that fellow with your party?' 'Ya, that's
George. He just went up (on the glacier) to have a look around. ' 'Alone?' I queried. 'No
one else wanted to go.' 'Isn't that a bit dangerous?' I continued, 'Dangerous? why?'
'Well, what ifhe should fall into a crevasse?' 'Oh, that's no problem. He's wearing his
beeper.' 'His beeper?' 'Ya, you know, one of these.' He reached into his pocket and
pulled out a Skadie Avalanche Transceiver. ' Haven't you ever used one of these
before?' 'well, yes, I've used it before, but not in crevasses.' with a bored look he
continued to explain. 'It's simple. If anyone falls into a crevasse, we know just where
to look for him. See, you simply turn this dial and put this earplug in and listen for the
beeps from his
unit They'll
lead you right to the crevasse. Using the Skadie means you
don'tneedropesanymore."oh. NowIunderstand...Yes.. Agoodidea...Iwonderwhy
no one else thought ofthat before?' "
Denali - the mountain where rescue costs are so high - where groups fly in - where
they are now charging climbers $150 each to cover rescue expenses.
The lsland Bushwhacker Update
February 1995
Page 6