QING IMPERIAL ROBES & ACCESSORIES !"#$%& Compiled by Lisa Claypool Historical 18th – early 20th-century sources Alexander, William. “A Group of Chinese, Habited for the Rainy Weather.” The Costume of China Illustrated in Forty-eight Coloured Engravings. London: Miller, 1805. Ball, L. Dyer. Things Chinese: Being Notes on Various Things Connected with China. London: Low, 1900; 5th ed. Shanghai: Kelly & Walsh, 1925; repr. Hong Kong: Oxford University Press, 1982. Breton de la Martinere [Jean-Baptiste-Joseph]. China: Its Costume, Arts, Manufactures, &c. 4 vols. London: J. J. Stockdale, 1812. Cunningham, Alfred. The Chinese Solider and Other Sketches With a Description of the Capture of Manila. Hong Kong: Daily Press Office, 1902. Doolittle, Rev. Justus. Social Life of the Chinese: A Daguerreotype of Daily Life in China. 2 vols. London: Sampson Low, 1868. Dudgeon, John. Diet, Dress and Dwellings of the Chinese in Relation to Health. Published for the International Health Exhibition, 1884. Graves, Rev. R. H. Forty years in China, or China in Transition. Baltimore: R. H. Woodward Co., 1895. Huangchao liqi tushi '(!)"* [Regulations for the Ceremonial Paraphernalia of the (Qing) Dynasty]. 1766. Repr. Yangzhou: Guangling shushe, 2003. Jisi guanfu tu +,!"# [Official dress for rites and ceremonies, illustrated]. 1914. Little, Archibald (Mrs.). The Land of the Blue Gown. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1902. Morse, Edward S. Glimpses of China and Chinese Homes. Boston: Little Brown, 1902. Moule, Arthur Evans. The Chinese People: A Handbook on China. London: Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, 1914. Smith, Arthur H. Chinese Characteristics. New York: Fleming H. Revell Company, 1894. Wade, Thomas. The Army of the Chinese Empire. Canton: The Chinese Repository, 1851; rep. Tokyo: Maruzen, n.d. Secondary Sources Berger, Patricia. “Ritual.” In China: The Three Emperors, 1662-1795. Eds. Evelyn Rawski and Jessica Rawson, 118-21. London: Royal Academy of Arts, 2005. Bray, Francesca. Technology and Gender: Fabrics of Power in Late Imperial China. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1997. HQ 1768 B72 1997 Brown, Claudia. Weaving China’s Past: The Amy S. Clague Collection of Chinese Textiles. Hong Kong: Phoenix Art Museum, 2000. Cammann, Schuyler. “Birds and Animals as Ming and Ch’ing Badges of Rank.” Arts of Asia (May–June 1991): _____. “Chinese Mandarin Squares: A brief catalog of the Letcher Collection. University Museum Bulletin 17, no. 3 (1953). _____. “Costume in China, 1644-1911.” Philadelphia Museum of Art Bulletin 75, no. 326 (Autumn 1979): 3-19. _____. “Development of the Mandarin Square.” Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies 8, no. 2 (1944): 71-130. _____. “Embroidery Techniques in Old China.” Archives of the Chinese Art Society of America Vol. 16 (1962): 6-40. Claypool “Imperial Robes Bibliography,” page 1 _____. “The Making of Dragon Robes.” T'oung Pao, Second Series, Vol. 40, Livr. 4/5 (1951): 297-321. _____. “A Robe of the Ch’ien-lung Emperor.” The Journal of the Walters Art Gallery Vol. 10 (1947): 8-19. Chung, Young Yang. The Art of Oriental Embroidery. New York: Scribner, 1980. NK 9272 C48 2005. _____. Silken Threads: A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 2005. NK9272 C48 2005 Dickinson, Gary, and Linda Wifflesworth. Imperial Wardrobe. Rev. Ed. Berkeley, Toronto: Ten Speed Press, 1990. GT 1755 C6 D53 2000 folio Finnane, Antonia. Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation. New York: Columbia University Press, 2008. GT 1555 F56 2008 _____. Dress, Sex and Text in Chinese Culture. Clayton, Australia : Monash Asia Institute, 1999. HQ 1767 D74 1999 Garrett, Valery. Chinese Clothing: An Illustrated Guide. Hong Kong: Oxford University Press, 1994. _____. Chinese Dragon Robes. Hong Kong: Oxford University Press, 1998. _____. A Collector’s Guide to Chinese Dress Accessories. Singapore: Times Editions, 1997. _____. “From Court to Cradle: Jewelry of the Qing Dynasty.” Hong Kong Oriental Ceramics Society Bulletin no. 12 (Feb 2002). _____. “The Importance of Accessories in Qing Dynasty Dress Regulations.” Arts of Asia (Nov/Dec 1997). _____. Mandarin Squares: Mandarins and Their Insignia. Hong Kong: Oxford University Press, 1990. Harada Yoshito !"-#. Zhongguo fuzhuangshi yanjiu ./%0123 [Research on Chinese Dress]. Tr. Chang Renxia, Guo Shufen, Su Zhaoxiang. Hefei: Huangshan shushe, 1988. GT1555.H25 1988 Hua Mei $%! Zhongguo fushi &'"(. Beijing: Wuzhou chuanbo chubanshe, 2004. Hua, Mei. Chinese Clothing. Tr. Yu Hong and Zhang Lei. Beijing: China Intercontinental Press, 2004. GT 1555.H8313 2004 Jacobsen, Robert D. Imperial Silks: Ch’ing Dynasty Textiles in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts. 2 vols. Hong Kong: Pressroom Printer, 2000. Jiang Bing 45. Zhonghua fushi wenhua .6%&78 [Dress culture in China] [Taiyuan shi] : Shanxi ren min chu ban she, [1991]. GT1555 J53 1991 Kuhn, Dieter. “Textile Technology: Spinning and Reeling.” In Science and Civilization in China. Vol 5, part IV. Ed. Joseph Needham. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1988. DS 721 N37 v.5 pt.4 Kwan, Winnie, et. al. Heaven’s Embroidered Cloths: One Thousand Years of Chinese Textiles. Hong Kong: Urban Council of Hong Kong, 1995. Li, Lillian M. China’s Silk Trade: Traditional Industry in the Modern World, 1842-1937. Cambridge, MA and London: Harvard University Press, 1981. HD9926 C62.L69 1981 Lin Shuxin 9-:. Yijin xing – Zhongguo fushishi xiangguan zhi yanjiu ;<=>./%&1? @A23 [The History of Chinese Textiles, Costumes, and Accessories]. Taipei: Guoli lishi bowuguan, 1995. GT1555.L55 1995 Mailey, Jean. Embroidery of Imperial China. New York: China Institute in America, 1978. NK 9283 A1 M22 1978 Claypool “Imperial Robes Bibliography,” page 2 Medley, Margaret. 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Chinese Costume in Transition. Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Tokyo: Donald Moore, 1958. GT1555.S42 Shan Guoqiang )'*, ed. Gugong bowuyuan cang wenwu zhenpin quanji 52: Zhishi shuhua B# CDEF7DGHIJ52KLMNO [The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace 52: Embroidered calligraphy and pictures]. Hong Kong: The Commercial Press, 2005. Shen Congwen PQ7. Zhongguo gudai fushi yanjiu ./R"%&23 [A Study of Premodern Chinese Dress]. Hong Kong: Shangwu yinshu guan, 1992. Shih, Minhsiung. The Silk Industry in Ch’ing China. Tr. Sun Eduzen. Michigan Abstracts of Chinese and Japanese Works on Chinese History, no. 5. Ann Arbor, 1976. HD 9926 C62 S55 E5 1976 Steele, Valerie, and John S. Major, eds. China Chic: East Meets West. New Haven, Conn. : Yale University Press, c1999. GT 1555 S8 1999 Sun Ji #S. Zhongguo gu yufu luncong ./RT%UV [Collection of Essays on Ancient Chinese Dress and Carriages]. Beijing: Wenwu chubanshe, 2001. Sung Ying-hsing. Tiangong kaiwu WXYDKChinese Technology in the Seventeenth Century. Tr. Etu Sun and Shiou-chuan Sun. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications, 1966. Vainker, S.J. Chinese Silk: A Cultural History. New Jersey: Rutgers University Press, 2004. TS 1655 C6 V35 2004 Vollmer, John. Celebrating virtue : prestige costume and fabrics of late imperial China. Toronto: Textile Museum of Canada, 2000. NK 4783 A1 V637 2000 _____. Decoding Dragons, Status Garments in Ch’ing Dynasty China. Eugene: University of Oregon Museum of Art, 1983. GT 1555 V917 1983 _____. Dressed to Rule: 18th-Century Court Attire in the Mactaggart Art Collection. Edmonton: University of Alberta Museums, 2007. GT 1755 C5 M32 2007 _____. “An Evening with Sandy and Cécile Mactaggart, Discussing their Chinese Textile Collection.” Orientations 36, no. 8 (2005): 84-7. _____. Five Colours of the Universe: Clothes and Fabrics from the Ch’ing Dynasty. Edmonton: Edmonton Art Gallery, 1980. NK 4783 A1 E24 1980 _____. In the Presence of the Dragon Throne: Ch’ing Dynasty Costume in the Royal Ontario Museum. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1977. GT 1555 V92 1977 Claypool “Imperial Robes Bibliography,” page 3 _____. Silks for thrones and altars : Chinese costumes and textiles : from the Liao through the Qing dynasty. Paris : Myrna Myers, [2003]. NK 8883 A1 V65 2003 _____, ed. Textiles as primary sources : proceedings of the first Symposium of the Textile Society of America, Minneapolis Institute of Art, September 16-18 1988. St. Paul, Minn.: Textile Society of America, 1988. TS 1760 T355 1988 Vollmer, John, and Jacqueline Simcox. Emblems of Empire: Selections from the Mactaggart Art Collection. Edmonton: University of Alberta Art Museums, 2009. N 7343.5 V89 2009 Watt, James CY, ed. When Silk was Gold. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1997. Wilson, Verity. Chinese Dress. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1986. GT 1555 L847 1990 _____. Chinese Textiles. London : V & A ; New York : Distributed in North America by Harry N. Abrams, 2005. NK 8884 A1 W44 2005 Wong, Hwei Lian and San Tan, eds. Power Dressing: Textiles for Rulers and Priests from the Chris Hall Collection. Singapore: Asian Civilizations Museum, 2006. Yan Yong, Fang Hongjun, $Z, [\] eds. Tianchao yiguan: Gugong Bowuyuan cang Qingdai gongting fushi jingpinzhan W(;^KB#CDEF!"#$%&_H` [The Splendors of Imperial Costume: Qing Court Attire from the Palace Museum]. Beijing: Palace Museum, 2008. Zang, Yingchun. Chinese Traditional Costumes and Ornaments. Tr. Li Zhurun, Wang Dehua, and Gu Yingchen. Beijing: China Intercontinental Press, 2003. Zhang Qiong a% ed. Gugong bowuyuan cang wenwu zhenpin quanji 51: Qingdai gongting fushi B# CDEF7DGHIJ51K!"#$%& [The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace 51: Costumes and Accessories of Emperors and Empresses of the Qing Dynasty]. Hong Kong: The Commercial Press, 2005. Zhao Feng &b. Zhongguo sichou tongshi ./cde1 [A General History of Chinese Silk]. Suzhou: Suzhou daxue chubanshe, 2005. HD 9926 C62 Z62 2005 folio Zhao, Feng, and Yu Zhiyong, eds. Treasures in Silk: An Illustrated History of Chinese Textiles. Hong Kong: ISAT/Costume Squad, Ltd., 1999. Zhao Xiuzhen &fG, ed. Beijing wenwu jingcui daxi: Zhixiu juan gh7D_ijk: '(l [Gems of Beijing cultural relics series: Textiles and embroidery]. Beijing: Beijing chubanshe, 2001. Zhou Xun and Gao Chuming mnopqr. Zhongguo fushi wuqian nian ./%&stu [Five Thousand Years of Chinese Costume]. Shanghai: Xuelin chubanshe, 1984. GT 1555 F565 1987 _____. Zhongguo lidai funü zhuang shi ./v" wx0&. Xianggang: Sanlian shudian (Xianggang) youxian gong si ; [Shanghai]: Shanghai xuelin chubanshe, 1988. GT 1555 C54 1988 folio _____. Zhongguo lidai fushi. .)*"%+z [Shanghai]: Xuelin chubanshe, [1983 or 1984]z GT 1555 C55 1984 folio Zong Fengying {|} ed. Gugong bowuyuan cang wenwu zhenpin quanji 50: Ming Qing zhixiu B #CDEF7DGHIJ50Kr!LM [The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace 50: Textiles and Embroideries of the Ming and Qing Dynasties]. Hong Kong: The Commercial Press, 2005. Zong, Fengying. Heavenly Splendour: The Edrina Collection of Ming and Qing Imperial Costumes. Hong Kong: University of Hong Kong Art Museum, 2009. yy Claypool “Imperial Robes Bibliography,” page 4 Theoretical and comparative sources: Appadurai, Arjun, ed. The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. New York: Cambridge University Press, 1998. Aple, Chris. Objects: reluctant witnesses to the past. London; New York : Routledge, 2006. Barthes, Roland. The Fashion System. Trans. Matthew Ward and Richard Howard. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1990. Barnes, Ruth and Joanne B. Eicher, eds. Dress and Gender: Making Meaning in Cultural Contexts. New York: St Martin’s Press, 1992. Bourdieu, Pierre. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1984. Braudel, Fernand. Civiliztion and Capitalism, 15th – 18th Centuries. Vol 1: The Structures of Everyday Life. Trans Sian Reynolds. London: Collins, 1981. Craik, Jennifer. The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion. New York: Routledge, 1994. Hollander, Anne. Seeing Through Clothes. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1993. Multhesius, Anna. Studies in Silk in Byzantium. London: Pinar Press, 2004. Schiffer, Michael B. Anthropological Perspectives on Technology. Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 2001. GN 406 A72 2001 Simmel, Georg. “Fashion.” American Journal of Sociology. 66, no. 6 (May 1957): 541-58. Veblen, Thorstein. “The Economic Theory of Women’s Dress.” In Essays in Our Changing Order. Ed. L. Ardzrooni, 65-77. New York: Augustus M. Kelley, 1964. Weiner, Annette B. and Jane Schneider, eds. Cloth and Human Experience. Washington: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1989. Claypool “Imperial Robes Bibliography,” page 5