WWDMAGIC
A SUPPLEMENT TO WWD
AGRARIAN
SOCIETY
Straight off the farm, denim-on-denim,
slouchy layers and heavy-duty outerwear
work in the concrete jungle, too, for fall at
WWDMAGIC and MAGIC International.
KEY
TRENDS
ACROSS ALL CATEGORIES
MEN’S ON
THE MOVE
Shows converge at Mandalay Bay
INNOVATIONS
IN JUNIORS
0202MAGa001a;14.indd 1
ON HER: Coat from Latte by Coffeeshop, Wow
Couture’s sweater and Mine’s dress. Carolina Amato
scarf; ck socks; boots from Bed:Stü.
ON HIM: Woolrich’s jacket, Dickies’ shirt,
Redsand’s T-shirt and Levi’s jeans. Trafalgar belt;
boots from Red Wing Shoes.
1/25/10 4:30:30 PM
Las Vegas Convention Center
Booth 73708
www.desigual.com
OVERVIEW
shaking things up
MAGIC’s show family is spreading out around town. By Rachel Brown
LAS VEGAS TRADE SHOWS ARE ON
wear show maintain its individual aesthetic identity.
the move.
WWDMAGIC’s floor has been divided into three
This season, MAGIC is raising the curtain on its
areas: Loft for youth-oriented brands such as Junk Food,
two-campus layout for the Feb. 16 to 18 program. The Levi’s, Trinity and XOXO; Studio, with an eclectic
men’s wear venue, setting up shop in The Mandalay
mix of lines that includes Free People, Mac & Jac,
Bay Convention Center, comprises MAGIC
Desigual and Hobo International, and Plaza, an open
Menswear, Project, Premium, Street and S.L.A.T.E.,
square to allow mingling with brands such as Karen
a venue dedicated to an edited mix of street, surf and
Kane, 172 Grams, Fabrizio Gianni and Silk Culture.
skate brands. An expanded WWD MAGIC will
“In the North Hall, there were booths in every
constitute the women’s wear arena at the central hall
single inch of space. We wanted to give a little bit
of the Las Vegas Convention Center, which also will
more room to breathe,” said DeMoulin of the WWD
house the Pool Trade Show, Sourcing at MAGIC and MAGIC design improvements. “We will have more
the premiere of the footwear expo FN Platform.
brands than we have ever had, but there is going to
“What people are going to see in February is the
be a little more space and a little more focus on the
culmination of plans we have been working on for
fashion aspect of the industry in the space.”
years,” said Chris DeMoulin,
The debut FN Platform,
MAGIC International
a joint venture between
president and executive vice
MAGIC and WWD sister
president of MAGIC owner
publication Footwear News,
Advanstar. “The buyers have
will include more than 500
been asking us to make the
brands in women’s, men’s,
shows more convenient.…
kids’, athletic and comfort
They are encouraged about
categories. (For more on FN
bringing all the men’s shows
Platform, see adjacent story.)
next to Project. They can
DeMoulin predicts FN
focus on spending their time
Platform will spur a “huge
with brands rather than in
increase” in footwear-only
cab lines.”
buyer registration. He added,
The response to the
however, that ready-to-wear
changes has been positive so
buyers are also enthusiastic
far, according to DeMoulin.
about attending FN
In its survey research, he
Platform and, in market
For the show calendar, see WWD.com.
noted MAGIC has found
surveys conducted by
that 90 percent of buyers
MAGIC, about 70 percent
intended to visit exhibitors at
of rtw buyers indicated they
both The Mandalay Bay and
wanted to see an enlarged
LVCC. And MAGIC expects
footwear presence at the
that buyer traffic will climb
shows. For buyers across the
overall during the three-day
spectrum, DeMoulin said
series of shows. More than
FN Platform would be a
2,000 brands have signed on,
showcase “to really see the
including Current Elliott,
dynamics of what is going on
Magic’s two campuses are at the Mandalay Bay (top) and
AG Adriano Goldschmied,
in footwear in the context of
Las Vegas Convention Center (above).
Vince, Adrienne Vittadini,
the ready-to-wear business.”
Stuart Weitzman, Nine West, DKNY, Trina Turk,
Regardless of location or fashion category,
Ella Moss, Stüssy, Obey, 10 Deep, Famous Stars &
trade show participants and organizers embark
Straps and Perry Ellis.
to Las Vegas with confidence that retailers will be
“It is really giving all the buyers [access] to the
in a buying mood. “Everybody was looking at last
fashions, the trends and brands across the entire
year in terms of trying to find out what the new
fashion landscape,” said DeMoulin of the updated
[consumption] level was,” observed DeMoulin.
layout. “We are looking forward to what we believe will “The feedback that we hear from vendors and
be one of the most successful shows we have ever had.” buyers is that they have found that footing a little bit,
MAGIC has paid attention to the look and
and everybody is coming into this show [positively],
feel of its men’s and women’s exhibitions. It hired
to see which brands, trends and partners they will
architectural firm Cleanroom Inc. to help each men’s
choose to grow their business going forward.”
COVER PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO. MODELS: ELLIZABETH WHITE/NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT AND BOBBY/FORD;
HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI FOR KATE RYAN INC. USING TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY WILLIAM MURPHY USING MAC;
FASHION ASSISTANT: BRITTANY ROBINSON; STYLED BY COURT WILLIAMS (WOMEN’S) AND LUIS CAMPUZANO (MEN’S)
4
Stuart Weitzman
will show at FN
Platform.
KICKING INTO HIGH GEAR
A NEW FOOTWEAR SHOW IS
stepping out in Las Vegas this month.
FN Platform — a joint venture
between MAGIC and Footwear News
— will include more than 500
brands spanning roughly 60,000
square feet of exhibition space at
the Las Vegas Convention Center.
The dedicated footwear show,
running concurrently with the
MAGIC marketplace Feb. 16 to 18,
will be divided into five distinctly
themed sections to service different
categories of the shoe market.
“Each of the areas of the show
has its own neighborhood and is
anchored by its own lounge,” said
MAGIC president Chris DeMoulin.
The Cosmo women’s section will
include brands such as Aquatalia
by Marvin K., Stuart Weitzman,
Steve Madden and Ralph Lauren.
Camp features fashion athletic and
lifestyle merchandise like Sperry
Top-Sider, Auri, Palladium and
G.H. Bass & Co. Bond showcases
men’s dress brands such as
Donald J Pliner, Mezlan, Bacco
Bucci and Cole Haan. Comfort
brands in the Zen area will include
Easy Spirit, Naturalizer and
Aetrex. Finally, InPlay features
juniors’ and kids’ labels like Stride
Rite, Poetic License, Lelli Kelly
and XOXO.
An additional 200 shoe brands
will be exhibited elsewhere in
the MAGIC family of shows, but
DeMoulin said eventually they
would likely move into FN Platform.
Several events also are
scheduled during the show.
On opening night, FN Platform
will team with YP for 210, a
networking group of young footwear
professionals organized by the
Two Ten Footwear Foundation, the
industry’s main footwear charity,
to host a fund-raiser bowling party
at the Orleans Bowling Center at
The Orleans hotel. FN Platform
will also honor a number of brands
celebrating milestone anniversaries,
including Sperry Top-Sider’s
75th, and 20 years each for Steve
Madden and Donald J Pliner.
— Wayne Niemi
WWDMAGIC
0202MAGa004b;11.indd 1
1/25/10 3:32:20 PM
Sleek looks bolster the contemporary market. By Marc Karimzadeh
THE CONTEMPORARY SCENE, LONG A
but we refined the look with an elegant
haven for cool T-shirts and jeans, is growing up.
glamour and a more wearable approach.”
Chalk it up to the seriousness of these
She said that in Yummie Tummie’s
sinister economic times, or just to the increasing
fall collection, “you will find softer
sophistication of runway trends that trickle
interpretations of color, luxurious fabrics,
down to the category, but many makers of
cleaner finishing and refined detailing. More
contemporary and young contemporary clothing
sophistication and less shock value.”
are tipping their hat to the more polished girl —
Jennifer Ashley, owner, founder, designer
even if she isn’t completely ready to abandon her
and creator of Hippie Ink by Jennifer Ashley,
alter-ego rock chick quite yet.
said graphics will play a key role for fall. She
Lilla P., New York, is best known for its
also finds much inspiration in the music scene,
Pima cotton tops with novelty details, but for
particularly in rock ’n’ roll, though she has also
this edition of WWDMAGIC, it is adding
been incorporating more Asian influences.
sophisticated draping, tucking and pleating in
“My shirts started off with peace signs and
the fall designs.
love [themes], and five years on, it’s still in that
“For me, the sophistication and the seriousness
vein, but I do a lot of interesting graphics,”
of the pleating and draping, really, are a result of
the Los Angeles-based designer said. “It’s all
people taking everything a little bit more seriously
original artwork. It’s still faces, Asia-inspired
now and looking at things in the way customers
designs, animal prints and Mod. Everyone is
are living and dressing,” said Pauline Nakios,
wearing big oversize shirts with leggings.”
owner and creative director at Lilla P.
For inspiration, she cited several impulses,
Color, she added, will be key in
but increasingly, Ashley said social awareness
underscoring the new mood. “Coming off a
plays a key role for designers, and for their
Jack by BB Dakota’s polyester, viscose and elastane
jacket; BCBGeneration’s polyester top, and Blue
difficult economic period, people are willing
customers. This show, Ashley will offer a shirt
Tassel’s embroidered cotton skirt. Hunter boots.
to inject a little color into their wardrobe,”
printed with the phrase “Love Is the Answer.”
Nakios said. “This season, it’s a very modern
A portion of sales is designated to Millennium
color palette. It’s fall but, particularly in our
Promise, a nonprofit organization that hopes
category, there are a lot of sun colors, and a lot
to halve the extreme poverty in Africa by 2015,
of fuchsias, teals and celadon.”
and worldwide poverty by 2025. It works with
Heather Thomson, creator and founder of
communities to implement programs in those
New York-based Yummie Tummie, said today’s
regions, and builds Millennium Villages across
customer wants “style, trend-right fashion, and
sub-Saharan Africa.
quality,” but “she still wants it at a great price.”
“People are more conscious of helping one
At Yummie Tummie, key trend inspirations
another,” Ashley said. “That’s the direction
include Glam Rock with an undertone of
our country is going, and people in fashion
Eighties and today’s pop culture — “Be it ‘Mad
have the ability to help, too.”
Men,’ Lady Gaga or ‘Avatar’-inspired,” Thomson
At Spanish label Desigual, “happy” is a key
said. “At Yummie Tummie, our focus is always
theme with a collection that draws from “wellon the architecture of the garment. The Eighties
being, color, joy and sincerity,” according to
design inspiration resulted in a collection of
a company statement. Details will include
soft, superstretch fabrics, refined detailing,
handmade concepts, like denim patches. The
strong shoulders, sophisticated construction and
looks are inspired by a search for well-being
asymmetric prospects for fall.”
and positive energy — suitable at a time when
Thomson noted that runways
customers are looking to spend more time
and subsequent cyclical
with family and friends.
fashions continue to dictate
Charlotte Tarantola, founder and designer
trends at her label.
of the namesake line and the Laquette label,
“Our broad
said she will continue to focus on novelty
appeal and broad
knitwear, with an emphasis on prints,
demographic do not CC Couture’s wool and elastane coat, Chaudry’s cotton top and David Kahn
embellishments and, for fall, horizontal stripes.
Jeanswear’s cotton and polyester denim jeans. Girlprops earrings.
allow us to focus
“My print business is totally out of control,”
on only one target, one defined customer,” she
Los Angeles-based Tarantola said. “For fall, for example, I’ll still have print
said. “As much as the Eighties inspiration is
cardigans, and will be showing floral prints, some modern takes on animal
clearly evident in our
prints, and a lot of looks accentuated with ruffles. For me, [customers] are
collection, we honor the
looking for cheerful, surprising, out-of-the-ordinary product and things that
Nic + Zoe’s cotton,
silk and Modal sweater. history of the Eighties
are really signature,” she said.
0202MAGa006(7)a;22.indd 1
PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODELS: BETTINE AND DIANA PENTY, BOTH AT MUSE; HAIR BY JOEL GUNDERSON FOR CUTLER/REDKEN AT ATELIER MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY WILLIAM MURPHY USING MAC; FASHION ASSISTANT: ASHLEY JOHNSON;
STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY; LOCATION: HOMESTEAD INN – THOMAS HENKELMANN, HOMESTEADINN.COM
CONTEMPORARY/YOUNG CONTEMPORARY
modern polish
1/25/10 4:45:14 PM
PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; MODELS: ELIZABETH WHITE/NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT (JUNIORS) AND MARIA SHUMAKH/Q (SWIM); HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI FOR KATE RYAN INC. USING TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY WILLIAM MURPHY USING MAC;
FASHION ASSISTANT: BRITTANY ROBINSON; STYLED BY COURT WILLIAMS; LOCATION: GRACE, A ROOMMATE HOTEL
Junior firms try creative tactics. By Khanh T.L. Tran
WHILE THE FASHION INDUSTRY HAS
been buzzing about value for the past few seasons,
a new mantra is echoing across juniors companies
exhibiting at WWDMAGIC: Innovation.
As businesses stabilize after trimming costs and
managing inventory tightly in the direst fiscal crisis since
the Great Depression, designers and manufacturers
are strategizing how to entice fickle teenage girls
to return to stores and shop. Some companies are
playing it safe by tweaking past bestsellers, while
others are forging ahead to push extreme styling as
seen on the runways and streets of Europe and Asia.
“It’s not good to be as good,” said Deke Jamieson,
executive vice president of marketing and licensing
at Los Angeles-based YMI Jeanswear. “You need to
come up with new products and concepts — anything
that entices retailers to take a look at your brand.”
That means an expanded array of outerwear
— triple the number of styles from last year — for
YMI. Among the cover-ups are puffer jackets, lined
hoodies, faux leather jackets and plaid wool coats,
all retailing from $49 to $115. The company also
plans to capitalize on the trend for denim leggings
with a crinkled version at $38 retail. “We suggest
to consumers that they tie it up and throw it in the
washing machine and dry it that way,” Jamieson
said. “When they put it on, it feels like second skin.”
Los Angeles’ Z Cavaricci is also promoting denim
leggings made of blue and black 8.5-ounce denim
with 40 percent stretch. Having taken a six-month
hiatus from shipping, the brand is in the midst of
a revamp with better-priced denim. Wholesale
prices now run from $18 to $28, compared with its
previous price range of $12 to $16. The styles veer
toward ultratrendy, such as motorcycle-style jeans
and a skinny leg in an ombré wash that is drenched
in a vibrant color before fading to white.
“The key to this whole thing is getting quality
product at a low price,” said Martin Barrack, Z
Cavaricci’s sales director. “The fabric, the denim,
everything is equivalent to, say, a premium Guess
item but the prices are half as much.”
At XOXO, the juniors brand owned by
Kellwood, lightweight fabric that feels like nothing
on the skin is key to the spring collection — for
more immediate deliveries — it will present. Voile,
gauze and the color white will emerge as key trends
for the line, which wholesales from $17 to $27.
Rompers and skirts will be the new silhouettes.
XOXO isn’t the only exhibitor highlighting
spring and summer looks at the February trade
show, which traditionally focuses on fall. Madison
Brands Inc., New York, said since retailers are
buying closer to the season, it’s showing pieces that
will ship between March and June. It’s also bringing
casual looks, like tunics to wear with leggings,
chambray, ditsy prints and big floral patterns.
“In the past, we did button-down shirts that fit
at the waist, that you can wear to work with black
pants,” said Chasen Mintz, account executive at
Madison Brands. “Seventy percent of the line will
be casual. It’s what’s been retailing for us.”
New Breed Girl is also chasing the casualloving teen with the launch of hoodies, ranging
from heavy-duty basics to fashion fleece. It’s
also introducing backpacks, totes, wallets and
beanies. “We are continuing with street trends that
influence our demographic,” said Patrick Wood,
BRIGHT OUTLOOK FOR SWIM
THINGS ARE HOLDING STEADY ON THE SWIMWEAR FRONT FOR
spring. Much like last season, swim vendors expect retailers’ eyes to
be on color and cost for the coming market.
“Color is the first thing people look toward,” said David Burnett,
vice president of merchandising for In Gear.
“Fluorescents look right on. They look happy and
there’s a lot of energy with them.” This is particularly
true in the active swim category, which Burnett
sees as a prime market for bright tones. “It’s a new
approach to active, which we haven’t seen in a long
time,” he said.
Within that vibrant spectrum, several firms cited
tie-dye as a key look. “All of the tie-dye and the ombré
prints that are really color driven still seem to be carrying
the same weight,” said Natalie Wierzba, national sales
manager and merchandiser at Beach Rays, a division
of Southern California swimwear manufacturer J.Y.
Rays. “Better specialty stores are looking for product
that’s well merchandised, so they literally see visual that
Nylon and
spandex
makes an impact.” That includes embellishments such
bikini from
as hardware, crystals and beading.
Trina Turk
“Swimwear has become a fashion statement,”
at Apparel
said Rosie Kendall, designer and an owner of
Ventures.
JUNIORS/SWIM
inventive ideas
YMI’s polyester
and cotton vest
and cotton,
polyester and
spandex jeans
with cotton
T-shirt from
Rockware at
Freeze Clothing.
AV Max sequin
bracelet;
Bed:Stü boots.
vice president at the Los Angeles-based maker.
In light of the still-weakened economy, Salt &
Pepper Clothing in Vernon, Calif., is continuing
silhouettes that have done well in the past but
sprucing them up with new fabrics and prints.
For instance, it’s updating the kimono top with
allover prints in an abstract floral or in solid colors
accented with embroidery.
“We want to be safe but not too safe, because
we don’t want our customers to think we’re
boring,” said Warren Hong, sales representative at
Salt & Pepper, where the average wholesale price is
$15. “It’s a fine line we’re walking.”
See-through styles are also big for Wow
Couture, a Los Angeles-based firm that counts
Arden B., Forever 21 and Charlotte Russe among
its retail accounts. Instead of lace, it’s knitting
cardigans out of rayon. Black and white are the
colors for its summer palette of items at $10 to $18
wholesale. Mike Guimm, general manager for
Wow, said, “We’re adding variety with lightweight
yarn so people can wear them all year.”
Las Vegas-based Unleashed Swimwear, which is launching at
WWDMAGIC. “In Vegas, I see a lot of trends. It’s really important
to look hot and sexy, and bring your personality out. Retailers want
something that will draw attention to their customers.”
According to Burnett, such decorative effects “give a sense of
perceived value,” or bang for the buck, which helps
justify price. In Gear’s stable of labels retails from
$10 for junior sets to $29.99, $49.99 and $79.99
tiers before hitting the highest mark, $122, for the
Plunge line. “Everything is price-driven,” he added.
“They’re value-oriented with embellishments and
we’re seeing the payoff. People are buying for looks
first, but at an enticing price.”
In terms of silhouette, while bikinis still reign
supreme for most labels, monokinis and one-pieces
are edging in. “One-pieces are incredibly important
across [all of our lines],” said Wierzba.
Meanwhile, Kendall was sure to include a
range of monokinis and cutout styles in her debut
collection. “They’re sexy and really flirty,” she said.
As for the bikini market, Burnett said In Gear’s
sales indicate Seventies-style bandeau “sunworshipper” silhouettes will continue to be hot.
— Jessica Iredale
WWDMAGIC
0202MAGa006(7)a;22.indd 2
7
1/25/10 4:45:43 PM
ACCESSORIES DELIVER
COMING OFF A BETTER-THAN-EXPECTED
holiday after a long period of bone-dry
consumer spending, accessories vendors are
upping their game with differentiated product
and price, aiming to prod customers to open
their wallets once again.
“The consumer is looking for more value
and for more novelty, more artisanal detailing,
more embroidery, beading. There’s no interest
in classic. This trend started over a year ago,”
said Carolina Amato, designer and president
of Carolina Amato, a New York-based company
specializing in cold weather accessories.
Amato is bringing summer and cold
weather accessories to the show, including
gloves, hats and scarves in polkadot and
leopard intarsia patterns in gray, brown or
8
Clockwise from left: Old Gringo’s leather boots; Berek’s leather jacket, Silk Culture’s beaded silk tank
top and Not Your Daughter’s Jeans’ cotton and spandex denim jeans; JSong’s wool and viscose coat,
Barbara Lesser’s cotton T-shirt and Silk Culture’s silk skirt with a J. Jansen necklace.
Coast stores “are starting to feel like business is coming around,” but
the rebound is a little slower in the South, according to Girard. “Jeggings” — jean-type leggings — should be “a huge trend for fall,” she said.
Stores like the fact that Fabrizio Gianni has American factories, which allows them to reorder in a timely fashion. “They know they can buy a little and get
back into it easily,” Girard said. “We make everything in L.A. so we don’t have to
deal with holidays in other countries or having things get held up in Customs.”
Girard started selling Puli, a Canadian label of blouses and jackets, in the
U.S. about 18 months ago. She said it has also become more popular in recent
months. Several better specialty stores have picked up the collection because
the prices are appealing and the design looks more expensive. Blouses wholesale from $35 to $55 and jackets are in the $45 to $75 range.
black with orange or turquoise contrasting
patterns. The designer, whose accessories
sell in boutiques and better department
stores, is also bringing men’s and women’s
leather gloves with detailing like buckles.
Business has been good for Amato, whose
price points are in the better to upper-better
range. “The volume of product that retailers
were able to sell has dropped off, but the
cold weather really helped a lot,” she said.
Alexia Crawford, president of her namesake
firm and a 10-year veteran of WWDMAGIC,
is focusing on hair accessories, scarves,
handbags and jewelry, all retailing for between
$3 and $38. “We’re more fashion-oriented,
so our stuff seems to be bigger,” she said,
noting her best performers are stretch cocktail
rings with large glass stones, as well as long,
layered industrial chains and leather and
suede bracelets. Her accessories are tied to
jewelry in some way, and usually have some
embellishments — even the scarves.
“Scarves are not as good as last year, so
we have added more novelty-driven scarves,”
with details like lace, she said.
Patti McKillop, chief executive officer of
Potluck Paris, a Seattle-based company that
imports jewelry from mostly French designers,
also stressed the importance of unique product.
McKillop said she will bring new styles of
bracelets, necklaces, earrings and rings, all
made of mixed metal with an “antique finish,
yet a modern look.” They retail between $30
and $300.
“I think the biggest focus from this season
is all the types of chains,” she said, adding
PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: DIANA PENTY/MUSE; HAIR BY JOEL GUNDERSON FOR CUTLER/REDKEN AT ATELIER MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY WILLIAM MURPHY USING MAC;
FASHION ASSISTANT: ASHLEY JOHNSON; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY; LOCATION: HOMESTEAD INN – THOMAS HENKELMANN, HOMESTEADINN.COM
WITH THE RECESSION STILL INHIBITING SOME SHOPPERS FROM
spending, sportswear makers are trying to encourage them to loosen up their
purse strings by offering a greater assortment of interchangeable items.
Today’s thrifty shoppers might be more inclined to buy something new that
can update pieces they already own. Domestically made products are also offering another reason to buy, as some consumers have become more conscientious
about supporting local businesses.
Len Shemin, owner of Nomadic Traders, a Berkeley, Calif.-based company,
said more stores are placing orders for the company’s domestically made
NTCO sportswear label. Aside from meriting a Made in the USA label, the collection has allowed Shemin to develop more lasting relationships with factories
in the Bay Area. “We feel particularly good about that, and it helps to be closer
to the production source,” he said.
In addition to its Nomadic Traders label, which consists of sweaters and
sportswear, the firm is branching out with Apropos, an updated sportswear line
that will bow this fall. Sweaters, soft dressing, coats, jackets and multicolored wraps
are part of the mix. Many of the firm’s 900 store accounts had requested another
label to build on its success while introducing something new, he said. Apropos will
wholesale from $22 for a top to $82 for a coat. It should account for 40 percent of
the overall fall business and will be sold in about 350 stores, he added.
Neve Designs, a Boulder, Colo.-based company, is extending its
ski sweater assortment with coordinated separates that will launch in
the fall. Dresses, pants and tops will be among the offerings. The aim
is to sell more head-to-toe outfits, said design director Carol Gantos.
There is also a Prima Belle group made of a silk, merino wool
and Lycra spandex blend that should help boost fall sales, she
added. Those crewneck and zip-front tops, leggings and
other separates have ski-inspired graphics and coordinate
with the brand’s ski sweaters.
Neve has made a concerted effort to improve fit for its athletically
inclined customers. The company also just hired a European sales rep
who will initially focus on opening accounts in Italy, Germany, France
and the U.K. Another recent initiative was the overhaul of its catalogue to make the
photography and marketing more sophisticated, Gantos said.
Lynn Girard, who owns a signature showroom in Los Angles, said she
has seen retailers’ interest in Fabrizio Gianni sportswear accelerate in recent
months. A five-pocket jean in cotton twill, which is available in 25 colors including neons and other bright hues, is particularly popular, she said. Matching
tops and scarves are also in demand, especially in Dallas and Los Angeles. West
PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO
WOMEN’S DRESSES/SPORTSWEAR/ACCESSORIES
mix and match
Sportswear houses are playing the versatility card. By Rosemary Feitelberg
WWDMAGIC
0202MAGa008(9)a;18.indd 1
1/25/10 4:24:06 PM
PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: DIANA PENTY/MUSE; HAIR BY JOEL GUNDERSON FOR CUTLER/REDKEN AT ATELIER MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY WILLIAM MURPHY USING MAC; FASHION ASSISTANT: ASHLEY JOHNSON;
STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY; LOCATION: HOMESTEAD INN – THOMAS HENKELMANN, HOMESTEADINN.COM
Makers hope unique details will entice retailers. By Ross Tucker
VENDORS EXHIBITING IN WWDMAGIC’S
premium segment, a recent addition to the show, are
entering with the knowledge that they’ll need to attract
retailers with a balance of proven sales winners and
unique products.
While the worst of the recession might have passed,
vendors realize that retailers are still waiting for their
customers to return in force. As a result, it’s likely that
those retailers will opt to chase business rather than
burdening themselves with excess inventory. That said,
the mood has greatly improved and retail buyers aren’t
necessarily looking to play it safe when it comes to style.
Rick Guido, owner and designer of Noblita, launched his
business four years ago with what he dubs “nondenim jeans.”
“It looks like denim, but it feels like french terry, which
is a knit,” said Guido. The Los Angeles-based label sells
to Fred Segal, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s, among
others, with price points ranging from $100 to $120.
Noblita has also expanded into tops and motorcycle
jackets to match its nondenim jeans looks.
Guido said he’s added a lot of extra detail work to the
collection ahead of the show, including studs, patches and
hand-painting work.
“We’re adding things like studding on the waistband,
belt loops and pocket treatments,” said Guido. “We’re
adding 200 to 300 studs around the waistband. We’re
also adding patches — we believe patches are going to be
very hot.”
Guido said he’s seen the business environment improve
even from the beginning of the year. Retailers, he said, now
have a clear picture of where their businesses stand and the
direction in which they are going to head. They also want
to bring in goods within four to six weeks.
“They’re looking [for] much closer [deliveries],”
he said. “I think they’re looking for anything new and
different. I think they have enough jeans lines.”
Jared Langleben, owner and designer of New York-based
Jared Lang, which specializes in men’s and women’s woven
shirts, said his collection will focus on prints. Like Guido,
that another big trend is rings with a metal
elastic band.
In fact, her strongest seller is the
elastic ring, most of which are
adorned with rhinestones
and Crystallized-Swarovski
Elements crystals. The
rings, which are available
in a variety of shapes, such
as a flower shape, retail
Wool and rayon
from $65 to $100.
Differentiation is also hat from Peter
Grimm Headwear.
a theme in handbags,
according to Adrienne Vittadini
Handbags design director Elena Humphreys.
While the styles in handbags are “all over
the map,” Humphreys said the one trend that
has emerged is “ladylike and embellished”
Langleben has also added more details to the line, including
double buttons and stitching on collars and cuffs.
“Detail work is strong and for next season, we believe
prints is the up-and-coming trend,” said Langleben.
Langleben says retailers are still reluctant to buy new
lines unless they have a unique perspective.
“They’ll only buy what sells — unless there’s something
eye-catching,” he said. “The new guys are going to have to
be really strong and powerful and have something unique
in the industry.”
Marguerite Moye, designer for Erge Designs and new
brand Eyelid, said retailers aren’t limiting themselves to
one or two trends, so Erge is playing with several. Moye has
seen a return of oversize Eighties looks combined with the
return of leggings. “We’re trying to do a bit of both,” she
said, adding that she’d even used small shoulder pads in
a few items. The line will also incorporate tie-dye effects.
Moye said she’s working with a lot of burnouts this season.
“We try and put a little bit of everything out there,”
she said. “From us, people love color. They don’t want
to see drab.”
Like Moye, Alex Vedder, brand manager for juniors label
Closet Romantic, sees an opportunity for mixing trends.
“We’re seeing a lot of grunge coming through,” said Vedder.
Closet Romantic launched in July and is one of the new
labels aiming to appeal to retailers with an edgy look at a
good price.
“We’re focusing on bringing in that grunge trend
but mixing with a little more girly,” she said. “Our line is
feminine-meets-edgy.”
Vedder believes retailers will be looking for looks that
are easy to wear and comfortable. “A lot of our burnout
stuff has done great, as well as our looser styles,” she said.
She also feels the pressure from retailers to offer more
for the money.
“Like they have been doing for the last year or so,
retailers are looking for lines that stick out and are at a
great price point,” said Vedder. “They want more value for
the money they’re spending.”
bags at attainable prices.
“Adrienne Vittadini is doing a luxury
collection for an affordable price,”
she said, explaining that the bags
feature jewelry-like hardware.
Through “smarter design” and
“great sourcing,” the New Yorkbased company is able to offer the
bags in the $200-to-$400 price
range, Humphreys said, adding
that the bags look like they cost
$700 but they will sell for $300.
“With the economy still soft,
people are buying investment
pieces,” she observed. “I’m sure
low-end apparel is doing better than low-end
accessories. I think people would rather have
20 cheap sweaters than 20 cheap handbags.”
Designer Michelle Cravens, owner of
Michelle Monroe Studios, a Yorba Linda,
Calif.-based luxury handbag firm, concurred
with Humphreys.
“If people are going to spend money, it’s
going to be on jewelry or handbags versus
apparel,” she said. The bags, which are
higher-end, retailing from $300 to $670 and
often “on the same shelves as Gucci and
Prada,” have been featured in magazines for
their unique look, mixing feathers, leather
and detailing like studs and gold hardware.
Cravens will bring six to seven of her
signature feather bags to the show. “I have
seen a feather trend but not much on bags,”
she said. “I did a few pieces last year and got
a lot of encouraging feedback.”
— Alexandra Steigrad
WWDMAGIC
0202MAGa008(9)a;18.indd 2
WOMEN’S PREMIUM/ACCESSORIES
Knitmania UK’s Modal jersey dress.
Stuart Weitzman shoe boots.
novel approach
9
1/25/10 4:24:25 PM
MEN’S PREMIIUM
Triple Fat Goose.
Right: Tokyo
Five.
spare parts
High-end and contemporary brands focus on cleaner designs and lower prices for fall. By David Lipke
A PARED-DOWN, LESS-EMBELLISHED DESIGN AESTHETIC
and value pricing are the watchwords in the premium market for fall, as
vendors strike a cautious stance in the face of an unpredictable retail climate.
“Consumers have gotten pickier, purchases are less frequent and fashion
has become less disposable,” said Michael Silver, president of Winnipeg,
Canada-based Silver Jeans.
Despite the down economy, Silver Jeans enjoyed a 20 percent increase in men’s
sales last year on the strength of its value pricing. The brand’s jeans mostly retail
for between $80 and $105 and sell best in the Midwest, at retailers such as The
Buckle, Von Maur, Dillard’s and Nordstrom. “I think we found ourself at a very
effective price point,” said Silver. “We’ve found a lot of new customers that were
looking for a great value, and we have the right jean at the right price.”
In denim, slim legs and stretch fabrics continue to grow in popularity among
men, even in the heartland, added Silver. The company will introduce its first
collection of women’s tops at the show, with men’s tops to come next season.
Also sporting accessible price tags is new denim and sportswear brand
Tokyo Five, which was launched last year by New York-based Brand Resource.
The collection features a classic Americana workwear aesthetic mixed with
Japanese-inspired graphics and type treatments. “We use a lot of thick,
chunky zippers, heavy cast-iron buttons and hand-sewn bar tacks,” said
Charles Jebara, president of Brand Resource. “It’s a masculine brand. We’re
steering away from the overembellished look — the last thing we need is
another guy in a thick-stitched jean.”
Tokyo Five jeans retail from $89 to $110, panel-printed jersey T-shirts
from $40 to $60 and track jackets from $68 to $88. “We’ve seen tremendous
downward pressure on prices and this brand is aspirational without being
overpriced,” said Jebara.
Outerwear maker Triple Fat Goose is adding denim and wovens to its
assortments this year in an effort to create a year-round business. “We’re going
for a clean look with nice details,” said James Chung, an owner of New Jerseybased Turbo Holdings, which owns the Triple Fat Goose and First Down
brands. Preppy-tinged patches and appliqués adorn the line’s polos, wovens
and cardigans. Jeans retail from $60 to $80, and tops from $60 to $90.
Buyers may be in for a shock at Ed Hardy, as the brand long known for its
aggressive, gaudy aesthetic is cleaning up its designs this year. The company is
pushing a core basics line that features solid Ts with a simple chest embroidery
10
that retails for $40, hoodies from $70 to $80 and lounge bottoms from $50 to $60.
“We want to cater to a larger demographic,” said Caleb Westbay, vice
president of sales at Ed Hardy. “This is a much cleaner commodity product,
with lower prices than our fashion collection — but it still retains the
excitement and personality of the brand. It’s everyday casualwear.”
Ed Hardy will also introduce a new line under the True Vintage sublabel,
which is inspired by motorcycle culture. “It has a grungier-type feel, with slub
cottons, mineral washes and stitching details,” said Westbay.
The centerpiece of the Ed Hardy installation at MAGIC — which including
licensees covers about 100,000 square feet — will be a fully loaded Ed Hardy
retail store, including windows and cash wraps. “We plan on expanding our
retail network very aggressively in 2010 and we want to showcase our entire
lifestyle story,” said Westbay. The company operates 23 full-price stores in the
U.S., as well as a handful of outlets. Worldwide there are 73 Ed Hardy stores.
The Ed Hardy brand is owned 50/50 by Iconix Brand Group Inc. and
Ed Hardy, the pioneering tattoo artist whose work is the basis for the brand.
Culver City, Calif.-based Nervous Tattoo Inc., which is owned by Christian
Audigier, is the master licensee for Ed Hardy and produces the sportswear
and headwear lines, which are a $165 million business at wholesale. The
company also sublicenses the brand in about 70 other categories, ranging
from fragrance and candles to beverages and car floor mats. In total, the Ed
Hardy brand rings up about $600 million at retail.
Another major footprint at MAGIC will be the Defiance USA booth,
which will show its English Laundry, Fender, Da Vinci and John Lennon
collections. The company will introduce new licensed product in shoes,
eyewear, underwear and home categories.
Value pricing is a key component of all the company’s brands, and over
the past 18 months those prices have decreased 33 percent. “We are trying to
offer as competitive a price point as possible. Those reductions have all come
out of our own margins, but we’ve made up for it with greater volume,” said
Christopher Wicks, chief executive officer and creative director of Defiance
USA, noting the company posted a 30 percent sales increase in 2009.
“I think people who survived this very chaotic financial arena are thinking
more nimbly. It’s a stripped-down environment, and people aren’t paying
ridiculous amounts of money for things anymore,” added Wicks. “This
shakeout has left the players who know how to dance.”
WWDMAGIC
0202MAGa010(11)a;10.indd 1
1/25/10 3:05:17 PM
Gray and plaid dominate the fashion trends for fall, with a hint of brown to come. By Vicki M. Young
MEN’S SPORTSWEAR WILL BE DECIDEDLY CONSERVATIVE IN
anymore. The season starts with rich autumnal colors in tactile fabrics, and
tone for fall, as slimmer silhouettes in shades of gray, a brown color palette
newness in all classifications. A breath of new plaids, and iconic graphic
and subdued plaids permeate the market.
applications are important parts of the mix. Deeper into the season the
This return to basics is expected to connect with consumers who are
palette evolves into saturated jewel tones based off of black and charcoal. The
embracing classics as the next big trend.
revival of the shirt jacket, slim-fit jeans and nautical military details are key
Tim Bess, men’s fashion-trend analyst at The Doneger Group, is
elements of the season.”
predicting a “great season.”
At Christopher Lena Shirt Co., Leonard Kang, vice president for
“I’ve been walking the [men’s shows at market week] and the buzz has
operations, said the “basic shirt is conservative, with a slimmer cut.” He
been about how they’ve all been good shows,” Bess said. “There’s a lot of
said color is fairly basic, although “one can have a wild color and still be
optimism out there, with everyone very upbeat about the business.”
conservative depending on trimming and how it is worn.”
In terms of trends, “plaid is still big this season,” according to Bess.
Following the conservatism in trends, “Fabrics tend to be more Brooks
“While young men’s will see more of the explosive plaid designs, men’s will
Brothers, but with toned-down trimming, [such as] slightly smaller
be more mid-scale. You’ll also see more colorblocking, such as
collars,” Kang said.
a sweater with the upper body a solid gray and the rest of the
He’s noticed people are less willing to take risks with fashion
body in blue.”
given the economic backdrop, resulting in conservative
He expects a “season of gray — all shades of gray.”
trends, as consumers want the items they purchase to
He noted gray denim bottoms did well last season,
last several seasons.
and that continues to be the color palette of choice.
Ron Rheingold, president of the men’s sportswear
New neutrals being introduced include brown,
division at Weatherproof, said consumers are
featuring shades such as sienna and camel that
looking for value and will buy if they perceive value
are also worked into a variety of patterns, such
in the offerings.
as “brown plaid wool coats.” Shades of blue
In addition to the core classic Weatherproof
and red are also showing up as subdued accent
brand, the firm also offers Vintage by Weatherproof,
colors in plaids.
a more fashion-forward line. “You’ll see different
Also big this year is the outdoor category, with
patterns in the fabrications and more vintage looks
patterns reminiscent of Western wear found in
in sportswear.” He said a key item this fall will be the
Woolrich and Pendleton, said Bess. He noted
puffer vest featuring matted ciré on the outside. It’s
the ubiquitous denim jacket is being updated
the American version of the European-style puffer
to offer a slimmer fit, and denim shirts will be
jacket showcasing a shinier fabric.
available in a variety of shades ranging from
He noted Vintage by Weatherproof also
dark indigo to a lighter bleached-out tone.
offers corded polar fleece as its fashion item,
According to Stephen Hooper, vice
allowing the company to obtain a slightly higher
president of design for DKNY Men’s
price. “It has a corded texture and it costs a few
sportswear, “We were inspired by the effortless
dollars more, but the [fabric is] different from our
mix of sport and active with updated men’s wear
competitors,” Rheingold said.
patterns — sporty nylon and waxed cotton
Lori Medici, vice president of marketing at
in sleek urban silhouettes mixed with more
Perry Ellis International, noted a variety of
traditional men’s wear patterns and prints. That
brands under the Perry Ellis umbrella will be
dichotomy represents the classic DKNY DNA.”
showcased at MAGIC.
Hooper said the color palette for fall
The namesake Perry Ellis line will showcase
starts with grays and blues, and moves toward
“color statements, coat-front knits, peak lapels and
rich burgundy, olive and brown shades as the
double-breasted sport coats, microstripe wovens
Christopher Lena shirts.
season progresses.
and wrinkle-free shirts. We concentrate on expanding
He said DKNY Men’s has focused much attention on wear-now fabrics
our ‘fits’ to cover both the city and classic looks combining mainstream and
for fall, such as resin-coated cottons and nylons in outerwear; cotton and
aspirational styles. Focus will be on crafting assortments down to the door
cotton-cashmere-blend sweaters; mercerized cotton, pima cottons and slub
level specified by region and climate,” she explained.
jerseys for the base fabrics in knits, and shirting patterns in checks, plaids and
The company will also be launching Pierre Cardin sportswear with casual
stripes in high-count cotton.
bottoms, denim, outerwear, leisure and warm-up suits, knits and sweaters.
Another key feature in the offerings for fall centers on versatility, such as
According to Medici, the line will feature Cardin’s iconoclastic “use of design
button-out or zip-out liners in hybrid blazers and outerwear. “These can be
and color such as geometric shapes and patterns” that fuses French savoir
worn in early fall to holiday, making them great two-for-one pieces at a price
faire and metropolitan style to resonate with a cross-generational consumer.
point of under $200 retail,” Hooper said.
Perry Ellis’ Hispanic brands — Cubavera, the Havanera Co. and Centro
Nautica is also placing emphasis on wear-now pieces, according to Chris
— continue to evolve as the landscape of America becomes more diverse,
Cox, creative director. “For fall, we are focused on ‘buy now, wear now’ in
Medici said. An example of an essential timeless look is the “guayabera,” the
both sportswear and jeanswear offerings. It is still critical and important now four-pocket pleated tropical shirt within the Latin culture and which serves as
to have these types of items for our consumers. No one is buying and holding
the foundation and inspiration for the firm’s Hispanic lifestyle brands.
WWDMAGIC
0202MAGa010(11)b;11.indd 2
MEN’S SPORTSWEAR
conservative party
11
1/25/10 3:51:44 PM
Men’s Accessories/Tailored
american heritage
Manufacturers turn their eyes to the past for inspiration. By Brenner Thomas
“We upgraded the leather, linings and created new
When MAGIC takes over Mandalay
Bay Convention Center on Feb. 16, Tandy Brands
packaging for the line,” said Hilda McDuff, chief
will unveil a booth designed around the company’s
merchandising officer for Tandy Brands.
These vintage designs shadow a growing trend in
recently revamped logo and branding campaign.
But as far as the leather goods and belt markets go, sportswear toward classic American looks, but also
that’s likely all that will be new at MAGIC. Vendors
reflect retailer demand for styles that are tested and
this season are otherwise looking to the past, where
familiar. The exception appears to be the young men’s
market, where belts and small leather goods continue
vintage and heritage styles will dominate in the fall.
“Two years ago, this market was much more
to be driven by fashion. Tandy Brand’s Surplus line
driven by trend,” said Laura Drnek, vice president
is showing innovative screen prints on its belts. Marc
of merchandising at Randa Accessories. “Now it’s all
Ecko Cut & Sew, a Randa license, is moving toward
about brand authenticity.”
jean-friendly but playful styles with exaggerated
For many, that means focusing on vintage-inspired
hardware, like studding and mixed metals, used on
product. Levi’s, which Randa produces under license,
worn leathers with raw edges.
is showing belts in burnished leather with lots of highs
The price-value equation, that buzz phrase of 2009,
and lows and smoked, antiqued hardware. “These belts
will continue to drive business in the fall
look like your grandfather wore them 20
as well. “The value component has
years ago,” Drnek explained.
obviously never been more critical,”
“Black is still important but
said Rick Luft, president of Swank
Inc. His company is highlighting
brown is really trending here.”
Dickies is also looking
value by increasing descriptive
to its roots, with a belt and
language on packaging for the
wallet line that evokes the
company’s small leather goods and
company’s workwear heritage.
belts, which it makes under license
A Marc Ecko belt.
for the likes of Kenneth Cole, Tumi and Guess,
“It’s cleaner with polished finishes like
among others. For instance, it’s promoting slim wallets
antique nickel that reflects the literal nuts and bolts
that a lot of Dickies consumers use in their jobs,”
with tags that call out the product’s comfort.
said Wava Junior, senior merchandiser at Randa
Durability and comfort are also mandates at
Accessories, where she oversees the Dickies license.
Tandy, according to McDuff. “You have to offer
Heritage is also a watchword at Wrangler, as well
more for the price right now,” she said, adding that
as Dockers, which is showing a range of less dressy
the company is also scouring its suppliers for better
belts that feature milled and burnished leathers with deals. “We’ve committed ourselves to leveraging our
sourcing. The competitive landscape demands it.”
unfinished edges and larger widths.
Tandy is also relaunching one of its proprietary
In such a market, it’s no surprise that reversible
small leather goods brands, Rolfs, which will revolve
belts — always a hit in the men’s market — have
around a concept of heritage and craftsmanship.
been trending across the market.
Nuance and Nostalgia
Tailored clothing vendors
at MAGIC are hoping to jump-start
suit sales by swapping basics for
detail-rich sport coats and patterned
suits with a distinctly old-school feel.
“This is about newness and
innovation at a price,” said Larry
Drew, vice president of sales for
the Trybus Group, which will be
showing its Cesarani and Steve
Harvey lines at the show.
The Texas-based resource will
highlight jackets with lots of talking
points: leather under collars, hybrid
sport coats with zip-out bibs, fauxsuede buttonholes. “If you don’t
make it visually stimulating, it
won’t sell,” Drew said, adding that
vested suit separates and doublebreasted models will lead the
silhouettes in his suit presentation.
The other major current in
tailored clothing are modern twists
of traditional haberdashery classics
such as tweed, flannel, Prince of
Wales, subtle plaids and fancies cut
in slimmer silhouettes for a younger
guy who is discovering dressing up.
“Everybody has their black suit
by now. People want something
new,” said Ed Gurdak, executive
vice president of Marcraft Apparel,
which is showing the trend in both
its Tommy Bahama and Jones New
York licenses. “Everything nostalgic
is strong again. It’s a look that
appears modern, but is not a loud
fashion statement. It’s accessible.”
— B.T.
We See Opportunities
Where Others See Issues
Successful companies take advantage of the opportunities that changing times present.
But growing companies often face financial issues in times of change. It takes a knowledgeable
eye to see beyond fixed formulas or capital ratios to fully comprehend the complex financial
needs of businesses. For over 70 years, mid-size and large businesses have relied on Rosenthal
& Rosenthal to manage their accounts receivable and to provide timely financing for growth.
Business owners and managers have access to the key decision makers at Rosenthal, which
enables them to obtain quick and informed responses to their most pressing business needs.
Domestic & International Factoring—Letters of Credit
Working Capital Loans—Term Loans—Collateral Management Services
NEW YORK
LOS ANGELES
For a conf idential consultation, please contact Michael Stanley:
212 356 -1497 or mstanley@rosenthalinc.com
ROSENTHALINC.COM
0202MAGa012(13)a;11.indd 1
1/25/10 4:43:24 PM
KIDS’
youth movement
Innovations and value pace children’s wear. By Anne Riley-Katz
THE CHILDREN’S SECTOR HASN’T BEEN HIT AS HARD OVERALL AS HAS
the rest of the apparel world, but trade-show business has suffered with foot traffic way
down, as buyers continue to cut buying and travel budgets.
As such, with economic pressures high and inventories still tight, exhibitors of
children’s apparel have tempered their sales expectations.
Sea & Sun LLC holds licenses for Marvel Comics, True Religion and Ed Hardy swim
and beach apparel for kids and adults and is exploring fabrics that change color when
exposed to UV light or temperature changes, UV-resistant garments for kids with sensitive
skin and 3-D swim goggles to differentiate its lines.
“We used to project our sales and make a lot of everything. Now we do it the other way
around, we see what the interest is first,” said Fawn Arthur, creative director for Sea &
Sun. “People want more than just the clothing, they want more bang for their buck, so you
have to be innovative. I think buyers are looking for things, especially in swim, that can be
double-use and are street-ready.”
“The kids apparel sector is a little less subject to pullback because parents will cut out
their kids last,” said Eric Beder, a retail analyst for Brean Murray, Carret & Co. “But, as is
true across the entire apparel world, there is an overall reduction in volume, higher-priced
lines are faring worse, and there’s a lot of flight to value.”
American Apparel Inc.’s new children’s line will be shown with the rest of the company’s
wares. Founder Dov Charney said the youth line is a projected growth
area for the company in 2010, despite the fact that American Apparel
doesn’t sell to many outside retailers, relying on its own stores and
private label accounts, like one with Levi’s, to sell clothing.
“We’ve had a lot of velocity in our adult styles so making those for
kids wasn’t a hard decision,” Charney said. “If Daddy likes the shirt,
then he’ll buy it for the little ones, because it’s cute in their size.”
The show is drawing some new children’s wear resources, like Bot
Tots, a brightly colored organic cotton line of onesies, hoodies and
T-shirts featuring printed drawings of robots. It’s geared primarily
toward infants and toddlers, wholesaling from $5 to $12 with retail
between $20 and $30.
“I definitely thought twice before going into WWDMAGIC
because of the relatively higher cost, but for my first show I wanted
to invest in something I knew was big and worthwhile,” said Erin
Saelans, who launched Bot Tots in October. “As a new business, just
getting leads and writing an order would be success enough for me.
I think I’m in an appealing spot as far as pricing. And obviously, my
bigger goal is to make enough money to cover the costs of going to
the show.”
Jeph Hemmer, who co-founded Santa Cruz-based Avatar
Imports in 1991 and has been exhibiting kids’ wear at
WWDMAGIC for nearly 15 years, said buyers are pensive and
waiting until later to write orders.
“It’s a smaller part of our business than it used to be,” Hemmer
said. “The [sales] numbers outside are getting bigger and there are
just far fewer people at the shows, which, combined with buyers being
more conservative, drives that decrease in share of sales.”
Hemmer said Avatar actually saw better volume last show than
the previous one, an increase he attributed to the company’s low- to
midrange price points.
“People are trading down from higher price to mid- and lower
price but still looking for quality, and that’s where we’ve picked up
market share,” Hemmer said. “For us, the show is still a good return
on our investment. Hopefully, the good times will come back. Those
days were fun.”
0202MAGa012(13)b;13.indd 2
Marvel swim trunks by Sea & Sun.
1/25/10 5:27:02 PM
Fashion finds eco-friendly lines. By Matthew Lynch
FIVE YEARS AGO, AN ANONYMOUS THIEF MADE OFF WITH ELI
Nilsson uses recycled nylon zippers inside her bags. She said the closures
Reich’s messenger bag. Instead of buying new, Reich crafted a new pack out of don’t tend to break or get caught as easily as metal, which can add to a
necessity and used bike tubes.
product’s sustainability in the long run.
“I thought it would be funny and ironic to make a messenger bag out
“The eco movement probably doesn’t think fashion is a good thing,
of inner tubes,” the owner of Seattle-based Alchemy Goods said of his
because they think it’s one season and it’s gone, but there is such a thing as
company’s earliest days.
sustainable fashion,” Nilsson said.
In the intervening years, Reich’s
Elizabeth Searle, designer for Earth Co.
operations have grown to a staff of eight and
b. organic, said the basics maker launched
dovetailed with a developing public interest
several years ago in largely earth and neutral
in eco-friendly goods. Now in its third year,
tones, but that demand has changed.
MAGIC’s Ecollection focuses on exhibitors
“Our customers were asking us, ‘What
crafting apparel and accessories out of such
about some bright colors?,’” Searle said.
sustainable materials and with socially
“The customer is looking for fashion. Our
conscious philosophies. Alchemy, for example,
colors for spring are really bright.”
will show for the second year. Taking Reich’s
She said the company is meeting demand
early ingenuity to a mass scale, the company
by using low-impact dyes for colors such
harvests bike inner tubes for its bags from
as cornflower blue, coral, sea blue and
a nationwide network of bike shops and
butter yellow. The company, which sources
cyclists. Reused car seat belts also figure into
cotton for its goods from locally owned
Alchemy’s production. Its newest addition
organic farms in Africa, also uses wooden
is a line of handbags and totes made of vinyl
beads and water-based screen prints for
repurposed from old billboards.
embellishments.
“Just because it’s recycled doesn’t mean it
Dallas-based Walleska Ecochicc creates
has to look recycled,” Reich said.
its lines out of materials like recycled
Other Ecollection vendors echoed Reich’s
aluminum and glass. Owner Walleska
Earth Co. b.organic’s organic cotton
pullover and organic cotton and spandex
sentiment. While it can be tough to spot trends
Tepping said she’s also been responding to
jersey pants at Z-Ply Corporation.
in a category where sourcing materials range
customer demand for color and design.
Converse Jack Purcell sneakers.
from organic cotton to the pull tabs from
“The product can be recycled and at the
aluminum soda cans, Ecollection exhibitors
same time look fancy or chic,” Tepping said.
almost all agreed vendors in the category are
“It doesn’t have to look rough.”
starting to put more emphasis on fashion. A few
She used her bags and tops crafted from
years ago, eco-apparel might have attracted an
soda can pull tabs as an example.
audience on novelty alone, but that consumer is
“They’re show pieces,” she said. “You put
now demanding more from such brands.
[one] on and people are going to notice you.”
Arlene Nilsson, an owner of new exhibitor Hemptress, said eco lines
Tepping’s designs are realized through a fair trade arrangement with a
have tended to lean more toward the misses’ end of the spectrum, but are
community in her native Brazil. In fact, many Ecollection exhibitors said they
starting to have more of a fashion edge. Based in Los Angeles, Nilsson crafts
adhere to fair trade practices.
her handbags largely from hemp, which she calls “the strongest fiber on the
Chicago-based Mata Traders Ltd.’s products are manufactured at co-ops
planet.” She’s started using finished bonded leather, made from recycled
in India using materials like recycled denim and saris. Co-owner Michelle
scraps, for trim. The company uses a hemp/RPET lining for bags in its vegan
King said the women who work in the co-ops are afforded paid sick and
collection. RPET, made from recycled plastic, is biodegradable.
maternity leave and have a “huge” chance for upward mobility.
“I just love it; it wears so much more like real leather,” she said of the
“We make sure that the people are being treated fairly,” King said, but added
recycled product, which she compared with other faux leather materials. “If
that the company’s fashions typically attract customers before its principles.
you make a bag out of PVC, it’s still there in 10,000 years. That’s the kind of
“It sells well on its own,” she said. “Our products are really well made.
sustainability we don’t want.”
[They’re] not mass produced. It’s a different production model.”
PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: BETTINE/MUSE; HAIR BY JOEL GUNDERSON FOR CUTLER/REDKEN AT ATELIER MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY WILLIAM MURPHY USING MAC; FASHION ASSISTANT: ASHLEY JOHNSON; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY;
LOCATION: HOMESTEAD INN – THOMAS HENKELMANN, HOMESTEADINN.COM
ECOLLECTION
green scene
by Tricia Kesten
Reading glasses
& accessoRies
800.435.5747
www.icueyewear.com
0202MAGa014a;9.indd 1
1/25/10 4:13:47 PM
S I LV E R J E A N S . C O M
COVER
YOUR
RACK
WITH SILVER JEANS
TOPS THIS FALL
g INTRODUCING SILVER JEANS TOPS
A new collection of knit and woven tops for women
launching for Fall 2010
Premium at Magic booth # PR 22353
USA CORPORATE SHOWROOM 212-354-1603
VP NATIONAL ACCOUNTS, USA 201-321-2259
NORTH EAST / MID ATLANTIC 212-354-1603
MID WEST 773-645-8980 / SOUTH WEST 214-634-9083
PACIFIC NORTH WEST 213-439-0900
CANADA 416-598-2545
AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND 61-3-9636320
GERMANY, AUSTRIA, SWITZERLAND, SCANDINAVIA +49 7763 7021
UK 440-207-428-5800 / JAPAN 81-35-774-2172