Wolf House shows
promise despite slips
With some polish, food, service can match lovely setting
- Erika Lenkert, Special to The Chronicle
Friday, January 2, 2004
While young locals swill beer and play pool in the 1905 saloon
through the open doorway, diners at Wolf House in Glen Ellen are a
world away, with views overlooking Sonoma Creek as they feast on
huge portions of reasonably priced cuisine.
In its previous stint as the Bistro at Glen Ellen, the restaurant was
leased to outside operators by owner Linda Richards. But this goround she took a more active role, renovating and reopening the
place herself last May, in partnership with sister Elaine Nealley and
executive chef Jean-Claude Balek. In winter, a fireplace, votives
and soft overhead lights warm the polished honey-colored maple
floors, sponged-gold walls, comfy custom furnishings and burgundy
tasseled window treatments, and lively recorded jazz adds to the
comfortable surroundings. In summer, it's a dash for the back patio
where umbrellas and alder trees provide idyllic shaded creek views.
The acoustics are as attractive as the environs. They're so good
that even when the place was packed, my dining companion caught
every word of my whispered comments -- and there was a lot to
chat about.
As the chef, the 33-year-old Balek is well-seasoned. He's worked
under Gary Danko, Jeremiah Tower and Los Angeles chef
Suzanne Goin, and his creative use of local ingredients shows his
pedigree.
The king-size grilled double-cut pork chop ($17.50) arrives tender,
bone in the air, and balanced atop delicious cubed smoked
vegetable and pecans, braised winter greens and tangy cider
reduction. A bundle of crisp truffle- and Parmesan-flavored french
fries juts up from a fat onion ring alongside prime flatiron steak
($18.50). Their only flaws: After we requested medium rare for
both, the pork came slightly overcooked and the steak arrived
practically mooing -- even after returning it to the kitchen.
Sparkling wine-battered prawns ($10) and seared Sonoma foie
gras ($15) also needed more cooking time. The prawns were puffy
and golden on the outside, but soggy within -- and their dual
ramekins of watery thyme puree and bland, pasty pureed salsify
didn't help. A beautiful port-poached pear, half fanned beneath the
foie gras and half standing next to a tuft of frisee and a brioche
triangle, couldn't mask the liver's slightly undercooked state or
warm up next to the chilly pear sorbet. However, the homey crispy
local rock cod ($20) with creme fraiche smashed potatoes, chayote
squash and orange-cilantro essence was light, flaky and mammoth
in proportion.
Other dishes are much better. Baby beet salad ($8.50) with Laura
Chenel crotin, mache and apple balsamic vinaigrette is pristine.
Point Reyes blue cheese, apples and spiced walnuts ornament a
large, leafy pile of Sonoma greens ($6.50) tossed in a light shallot
vinaigrette. Moist, grilled strips of chicken breast saddle crunchy
romaine leaves on the well-dressed chicken Caesar ($9). Rich and
cheesy wild mushroom risotto ($15) piques the palate with a hint of
truffle and crowning dollop of arugula pesto.
Though Sonoma-centric, the wine list compiled by Nealley also
defies the wine country norm. Prices are uncommonly low, with 13
by-the-glass options from $5 to $9, and a reasonable markup on
bottles, with the most expensive offerings at $85 for 1996 Silver
Oak Cabernet Sauvignon and $88 for 1996 Hanzel Sonoma Pinot
Noir.
Desserts (all $7) are also very good. A huge block of chocolate
bread pudding oozes with melted Scharffen Berger chunks and is
slathered in creme anglaise and chocolate sauce. Apple strudel -- a
thick log of Fuji apples, golden raisins, and pine nuts rolled in thin,
moist pastry -- is something to behold, but I yearned for more of the
flaky crust.
There was nothing unusual about a buttery lemon tart -- except for
its genius accompaniment of pomegranate molasses.
Service is consistently friendly and attentive, although it can be
sloppy. "I don't know" was a frequent answer to questions about
ingredients, and one waiter's cell phone rang from his pocket while
he was serving our table.
But when my party was forgotten after being told to wait in the bar
for 5 minutes, the staff redeemed itself with free desserts.
While not all dishes work, many do, and even those that miss the
mark show potential. With some refining in the kitchen and
polishing of the wait staff, Wolf House's food and service can match
its lovely setting.
Wolf House
13740 Arnold Drive (near Jack London State Park), Glen Ellen; (707) 9964401.
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Tuesday, Thursday-Friday; 5:30-9 p.m.
Monday-Tuesday, Thursday-Sunday; brunch 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. SaturdaySunday.
Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Free parking lot.
OVERALL:
TWO STARS
Food:
TWO STARS
Service:
TWO STARS
Atmosphere: TWO AND A HALF STARS.
PRICES:
$$$
NOISE RATING: TWO BELLS
E-mail comments to nbayfriday@sfchronicle.com.
Pluses: Beautiful indoor and outdoor seating, inventive cuisine, value
pricing, friendly service.
Minuses: Inconsistent preparations; creative sauces sometimes flop; staff
could use more instruction in the menu.
RATINGS KEY
FOUR STARS:
Extraordinary
THREE STARS:
Excellent
TWO STARS:
Good
ONE STAR:
(box):
Fair
Poor.
$
Inexpensive:
entrees under $10
$$
Moderate:
$10-$17
$$$ Expensive:
$18-$24
$$$$ Very Expensive: more than $25
Prices based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories,
the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings..
ONE BELL:
Pleasantly quiet (under 65 decibels)
TWO BELLS:
Can talk easily (65-70)
THREE BELLS:
Talking normally gets difficult (70-75)
FOUR BELLS:
Can only talk in raised voices (75-80)
BOMB:
Too noisy for normal conversation (80+).
Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous.
All meals are paid for by the Chronicle.
Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits.
Ratings are updated continually based on a least one revisit.