Wine Country Living
May 2004
Novel cuisine
Sonoma’s Wolf House Restaurant offers adventurous cooking
Story
Erika Lenkert
The name Wolf House may first conjure visions of wild beasts with gnashing teeth. But
the moniker of Glen Ellen’s newest restaurant actually refers to one-time resident author
Jack London’s dream house, the ruins of which stand in the nearby state park. Nowadays
it’s also references one of Sonoma’s most scenic places to sample adventurous and
reasonably priced regional cuisine in a quintessential wine country setting.
Previously the site of the Bistro at Glen Ellen, the creekside restaurant unveiled its
beautiful new interior and creative menu last May. Inside – by the fireplace or
overlooking the patio and Sonoma Creek – sponged-gold walls, burgundy tasseled
window treatments, and custom furnishings evoke a theatrical setting. Diners seated on
the back patio are shaded by umbrellas and towering alders and serenaded by babbling
waters below.
Chef Jean-Claude Balek’s “Sonoma Valley” cuisine though sometimes too adventurous,
is satisfying – especially considering the generous portions and reasonable prices. Balek
focuses on local, seasonal ingredients and puts a sophisticated spin on familiar dishes.
Two items – soggy sparkling wine-battered prawns and seared foie gras with too many
contradictory accompaniments – prove that creativity doesn’t always equal success. But
his risks pay off with the grilled double-cut pork chop with smoky vegetables, pecans,
braised wintergreens and tangy cider reduction, and the flatiron steak with a sidekick
bushel of truffle and parmesan-flavored French fries in a fat onion ring.
Results usually vary with experimental chefs. Fortunately Balek is on more than he is
off. And even when a dish is a base or two short of a home run, Wolf House’s relaxed
setting, extremely well praised Sonoma-centric wine list, and huge, rich chocolate bread
pudding make it worthy of a turn into Jack London’s old stomping grounds.
Wolf House Restaurant, 3740 Arnold Drive (near Jack London State Historic Park,) Glen
Ellen. 707.996.4401. Dinner Monday, Tuesday, Thursday through Sunday; lunch
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday; brunch Saturday and Sunday. Reservations and
credit cards accepted.