The Good Earth
Dubuque County Master Gardener’s
Publisher Mary Ann Emery
Extension Master Gardener
Volume No. 10
Issue No. 10
Date October, 2011
Dubuque County Extension
14858 West Ridge Lane, Suite 2
Dubuque, IA 52003-8466
563-583-6496; Fax 563-583-4844
www.extension.iastate.edu/dubuque
Items of Interest!
1) Message from Marv
2) Call Center
3) Annual Recognition Dinner
4) Reporting Hours On-Line
5) Ask the Experts
6) Plant and Insect Clinic
7) Forcing Spring-Flowering Bulbs
8) Mosquito Activity Report
9) Cyclamen Mite Damage to Green Peppers
10) Forestry Field Day
11) Gardening Tip
11) Youth Programming
Hello everyone!!!
Can you believe that the date on this newsletter is
already October. Where has 2011 gone to?
We are all hoping for a beautiful Indian Summer. I don’t
think any of us is ready for the SNOW that will be
coming here in the next few months (at least I hope we
still won’t be getting snow soon). Some of the maple
trees are turning and the squirrels are very busy over
here in my yard burying hickory nuts and walnuts. It is a
fun day to watch them play and how busy they are.
I spent many hours in my garage cracking walnuts. It
was a fun way to spend a day, sitting in the sunshine and
watching the birds in the feeders and the squirrels
running around. A person almost feels guilty spending a
day that way - - but I got over it very quickly. Several
people asked me though if I wasn’t bored to death.
Master Gardener News Items
Please mark your calendars with these important dates.
Thanks Everyone!
a) Master Gardener Advisory Committee Meeting; 2 nd
Monday of each month, 6:00 pm at the Extension
Office. These meetings are open to all Master
Gardener’s, Trainees (interns) and invited guests.
Please come and support your Extension programs.
M.G. Advisory Committee Meeting: Monday, October
10, 2011 at 6:00 pm at the Dubuque County
Extension Office.
b) Master Gardener Recognition Dinner, Monday,
November 7, 2011 at 6:30 p.m. in the Sacred Heart
Church Community Room.
Hope you all have a wonderful Fall.
-- Mary Ann Emery
Mission Statement
The mission of the Master Gardener Program is to
provide current, research-based, home horticulture
information and education to the citizens of Iowa through
ISU Extension programs and projects. Through their
participation in educational activities, Master Gardeners also
increase their own personal knowledge in horticulture.
Master Gardeners extend Iowa State University Extension’s
consumer horticulture education programs through volunteer
activity.
NOTE: These events have been approved for volunteer
hours toward gaining or maintaining your Master
Gardener certification. Please contact Marv Stoffel at
(563)582-4764 or by email at stoffel19@mchsi.com if you
want to be a volunteer at any of these events. Watch this
area for more exciting events to come.
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From Marv Stoffel, President
Please Note: Date Change for
Recognition Dinner
Please note that the Master Gardener Recognition
Master Gardener Advisory Committee
Fall is officially here on Friday, September 23rd. It’s hard
to believe that there are only 3 months left of this year. The
weather in September was unusually dry. We normally get a
lot of rain.
There’s still some time this fall to over seed our lawns.
September and early October is the ideal time of year to
aerate, fertilize, and over seed our lawns.
This Saturday, September 24th, we are having our
Annual Fall Plant Sale. Frank Kalnes and Joe Timmerman
are chairing this event. The weather sounds like it’s going to
be real nice and sunny. This Plant Sale will be held in the
Pet Med parking lot again, which is generously donated by
Dr. John and Carolyn Haupert. It’s always a lot of fun to be a
part of the Farmers Market, and see all the great people that
support our Plant Sale. I hope to see a lot of you there!
Our next and final event of this year is our Annual
Recognition Banquet, which will be held on Monday,
November 7th at 6:30 pm. in the Sacred Heart Community
Room. LeAnn Keller is chairing this event. We will have
more details in the next newsletter.
Just a reminder to everyone, this year we will be required
to report our volunteer and education hours on line. So,
make sure you get your hours reported as soon as possible.
Please have your hours reported by November 1 st so, that
we can get them recorded for recognition at our Banquet.
I know that this year has been a very busy and trying year
for many of you. This is a time of year to take a walk and
reflect and see what the wonders Mother Nature has
provided us. Fall is a beautiful time when the trees show
their wonderful colors. I’m always amazed at what Mother
Nature does for us.
Have a wonderful and happy Fall everyone!!
Dinner will be held on the first Monday in November and not
the second as it usually is. The dinner will be held in the
Sacred Heart Church basement on Monday, November 7 at
6:30. It was decided at the last Advisory Committee Meeting
to change the date so that our members who serve on the
Extension Council can attend the entire meeting. Don’t
forget to let Trish or Lee Ann Keller know that you will be
attending. It will be here before you know it!!! Thanks in
Advance!!
Reporting Hours On-Line
Submitted by Cathy Darrah,
Secretary of Dubuque Master Gardeners
Iowa State is now requiring education and volunteer hours
to be reported on-line. For those who would like to register
and do this on their own, the following will help you get
started. For those who cannot report hours on-line, continue
sending in your hours to the Extension office as you have
previously done and the hours will be put into the computer
for you.
To begin reporting your hours on-line you first must
register:
Registration is found at:
www.mastergardener.iastate.edu
In the center of the Master Gardener home page is a
link titled Report Your Hours Online. Click on this link.
A new page will open with an ENROLL link in the center
of the page, click on that link.
You will be asked to type in your email address and then
to retype it.
You will need to type in a password and then retype the
password again.
Fill out your name, address, city, county, zip, phone and
year that you became a Master Gardener.
After you have completed the fields, click enroll.
A detailed How-to presentation on enrollment and to
input hours is provided by ISU on the home page:
www.mastergardener.iastate.edu
directly under the link Report Your Hours Online.
Or Cathy Darrah will be happy to assist any one in
registering and general questions on how to use the on-line
reporting. Best time to reach Cathy is in the evening at
563-588-0743 or email her at jdarrah7@mchsi.com
Call Center: We Need Your Help
Our Call Center will be staffed through October. There
are many openings on the schedule for October. Please call
Trish at the Extension Office or Marv Stoffel if you can help
out in the Call Center on either Mondays (6-8pm) or
Thursdays (1-4pm). They will make sure that your name
gets on the schedule.
If you are scheduled to work in the Call Center and
cannot make it, please find someone to fill in for you. Please
feel free to go into the Call Center to work if your name is
not on the schedule. There is usually always something to
do and anyone who stops in or calls with questions are truly
grateful for our help. We all can learn so much from each
other and trying to help solve other gardening problems.
This is another great opportunity to get your volunteer hours
in, be of service to our community, and have a good time
doing this at the same time.
Thanks to all who have volunteered for this so far. You’re
Great! The Call Center cannot be a success without you.
Thank you.
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When properly cured and stored, the storage lives of acorn,
butternut and Hubbard squash are approximately five to
eight weeks, two to three months, and five to six months,
respectively.
Ask the ISU Extension
Gardening Experts
When should I harvest my pumpkins?
Pumpkins can be harvested when they have developed
a deep, uniform orange color and the rind is hard. Mature
pumpkins can also be left in the garden/field until the vines
are killed by a frost or light freeze.
When harvesting pumpkins, handle them carefully to
avoid cuts and bruises. Cut the pumpkins from the vines
with a sharp knife or pair of lopping shears. Leave several
inches of stem attached to each fruit. A pumpkin with a 3 to
5 inch stem or handle is more attractive. Also, pumpkins
with stems are less likely to rot. Do not carry pumpkins by
their stems. The stems may not be able to support the
weight of the pumpkins and may break off.
After harvesting the pumpkins, cure them at a
temperature of 80 to 85 F and 80 percent relative humidity
for 10 days. Curing helps to harden their skins and heal any
cuts and scratches.
After curing, store pumpkins in a cool, dry place. Storage
temperatures should be 50 to 55 F. When storing pumpkins,
place them in a single layer where they don’t touch one
another. Good air circulation helps to prevent moisture from
forming on the surfaces of the fruit and retards the growth of
decay fungi and bacteria. Placing pumpkins in piles
generates unwanted heat, which may result in the rotting of
some fruit. Promptly remove and discard any pumpkins that
show signs of decay.
Harvesting vegetables at the right stage of maturity
results in nutritious, high quality products. This article
provides information for harvesting and storing winter
squash, pumpkins and gourds. Growers with more
questions can contact the Iowa State University Extension
horticulturists at hortline@iastate.edu or call 515-294-3108.
What is the proper way to harvest and
store winter squash?
Harvest winter squash when the fruit are fully mature.
Mature winter squash have very hard skins that can’t be
punctured with your thumbnail. Additionally, mature winter
squash have dull-looking surfaces.
When harvesting winter squash, handle them carefully to
avoid cuts and bruises. These injuries are not only unsightly,
they provide entrances for various rot-producing organisms.
Cut the fruit off the vine with a pruning shears. Leave a 1
inch stem on each fruit.
When should I harvest gourds?
Harvest gourds when the stem attached to the fruit
begins to dry and turn brown. Since the rind or skin is
susceptible to bruising or scratching, handle the gourds
carefully. Cut the gourds from the vines with a hand shears,
leaving a few inches of the stem attached to the fruit. After
harvesting, gently wash the gourds in warm, soapy water to
remove any dirt. Then wipe the gourds with a soft cloth
dampened in a household disinfectant. The disinfectant
should destroy decay organisms which could lead to fruit rot.
Finally, dry each gourd with a soft cloth.
Dry or cure the gourds by placing them in a warm, dry,
well-ventilated location, such as a garage or shed. Place the
gourds in a single layer on clean newspapers or shelves.
Space them so they don’t touch one another. Turn the
gourds frequently and promptly remove any which show
signs of decay. Large gourds also can be dried by hanging
them from beams or rafters. Drying or curing will take
several weeks. Approximately one to two weeks will be
required for the outer skin to dry and harden. Internal drying
will take several additional weeks. The gourds have been
adequately dried when the seeds rattle inside.
PHOTO: Harvest bounty, photo credit to Kelly Norris.
After harvesting, cure winter squash (except for the acorn
types) at a temperature of 80 to 85 F and a relative humidity
of 80 to 85 percent. Curing helps to harden their skins and
heal any cuts and scratches. Do not cure acorn squash. The
high temperature and relative humidity during the curing
process actually reduce the quality and storage life of acorn
squash.
After curing, store winter squash in a cool, dry, wellventilated location. Storage temperatures should be 50 to 55
F. Do not store squash near apples, pears or other ripening
fruit. Ripening fruit release ethylene gas, which shortens the
storage life of squash.
Storing apples at home is convenient and, if done
properly, can be economical. Important keys to a long
storage life for home-grown apples are picking at the proper
time and storing correctly. To have additional questions
answered, contact the Iowa State University Extension
horticulturists at hortline@iastate.edu or call 515-294-3108.
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If control measures fail, sooty blotch and flyspeck can be
removed with vigorous rubbing.
When should I harvest pears?
Pears should not be allowed to ripen on the tree. If the
fruit are left on the tree to ripen, stone cells develop in the
fruit giving the pear a gritty texture. Tree-ripened fruit are
also poorly flavored. Harvest pears when the color of the
fruit changes from a deep green to a light green. Also, the
small spots (lenticels) on the fruit surface change from white
to brown. At the time of harvest, the fruit will still be firm, not
soft.
How do I ripen pears?
Pears should be ripened indoors at a temperature of 60
to 70 F. The ripening process should take seven to ten days.
To hasten ripening, place the fruit in a sealed plastic bag.
Pears give off ethylene gas which accumulates in the bag
and promotes ripening.
When should I harvest apples?
A taste test is the best way to determine when to
harvest apples. Mature apples are firm, crisp, juicy, wellcolored and have developed the characteristic flavor of the
variety. Color alone is not a reliable indicator of maturity.
Red Delicious apples, for example, often turn red before the
fruit are mature. Fruit harvested too early are astringent,
sour, starchy and poorly flavored. Apples harvested too late
are soft and mushy.
What are the proper storage conditions
for pears?
Store unripened pears at a temperature of 30 to 32 F
and a relative humidity of 90 percent. Pears can be stored
for approximately one to three months. Remove stored fruit
about one week prior to use.
There are tan-colored, rough spots on the
surface of my pears. Is it possible to
prevent this from occurring?
What are the proper storage conditions
for apples?
The temperature and relative humidity during storage
Russeting is probably responsible for the tan-colored
spots on your pears. Russeting also develops on the surface
of apples. While affected fruit are not attractive, russeting
doesn’t affect the eating quality of the fruit.
Several factors may be responsible for russeting. High
humidity, rainfall or heavy dew, cold temperatures and use
of certain fungicides may induce russeting. Genetics also
play a role in russeting. Some pear varieties are more likely
to develop russeting than others. Since most factors
responsible for russeting are beyond our control, little can be
done to prevent its occurrence.
are critical for maximum storage life. Optimum storage
conditions for apples are a temperature of 30 to 32 degrees
Fahrenheit and a relative humidity between 90 and 95
percent. When provided with optimum storage conditions,
‘Jonathan’ and ‘Red Delicious’ apples can be stored up to
three to six months. Apples stored at a temperature of 50 F
will spoil two to three times faster than those stored at 32 F.
Apples will shrivel during storage if the relative humidity is
low.
What are the black spots or blotches on
my apples?
The overall appearance of a lawn is directly related to
the maintenance provided. September is an ideal time for
many lawn maintenance practices—such as weed control.
To have additional questions answered, contact the
horticulturists at hortline@iastate.edu or call 515-294-3108.
The problem may be sooty blotch and flyspeck. Sooty
blotch and flyspeck are two different fungal diseases that
often occur together on apples. Sooty blotch appears as
dark brown to black, ½ inch or larger smudges on the
surface of the apple. Flyspeck produces clusters of shiny,
round, black dots. Individual dots are about the size of a
pinhead. Environmental conditions that favor disease
development are moderate temperatures and extended wet
periods in late summer/early fall.
Sooty blotch and flyspeck live on the surface of the fruit.
Damage is mainly cosmetic. The apples are still safe to eat.
They’re just not very attractive.
Cultural practices and fungicides can help control sooty
blotch and flyspeck. Proper pruning of apples trees and
thinning of fruit promote drying and help reduce disease
severity. Fungicides may also be necessary.
When is the best time to apply a herbicide
to the lawn to control dandelions and
other broadleaf weeds?
Fall (mid-September through October) is the best time to
control perennial broadleaf weeds in the lawn with broadleaf
herbicides. In fall, perennial broadleaf weeds are
transporting food (carbohydrates) from their foliage to their
roots in preparation for winter. Broadleaf herbicides applied
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off the plant’s foliage, apply these materials when no rain is
forecast for 24 hours. Also, don’t irrigate treated lawns within
24 hours of the application.
How do I control creeping Charlie in my
lawn?
Ground ivy (“creeping Charlie”) in lawns can be
controlled with broadleaf herbicides. Products that contain
2,4-D or triclopyr are most effective. 2,4-D is an active
ingredient in many broadleaf herbicide products. Triclopyr
can be found in Ortho Weed-B-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and
Oxalis Killer for Lawns and a few other products. In Iowa,
herbicide applications should be made between midSeptember and Nov. 1. Two applications are necessary to
effectively control ground ivy. The first application should be
made in mid to late September, the second a month later.
How do I control violets in my lawn?
Violets are very difficult to control. Digging up the plants
is an option for home gardeners with a small infestation of
violets. Broadleaf herbicides are the most practical solution
when dealing with large numbers of violets. Broadleaf
herbicides containing triclopyr usually provide good control
of violets. Applications can be made in spring (during bloom)
or fall. Two applications, two to three weeks apart, are
usually necessary to achieve good control.
in fall will be absorbed by the broadleaf weed’s foliage and
transported to the roots along with the carbohydrates,
resulting in the destruction of the broadleaf weeds.
Broadleaf herbicides can be applied as liquids or
granules. Before applying any herbicide, carefully read and
follow label directions.
To enjoy tulips, daffodils and other spring-flowering
bulbs, gardeners must plant them in the fall. The reward for
proper planting, once varieties have been selected (there
are several thousand daffodil varieties) and bulbs
purchased, will be beautiful spring gardens. To have
additional questions answered, contact the Iowa State
University Extension horticulturists at hortline@iastate.edu
or call 515-294-3108.
What is the proper way to apply broadleaf
herbicides to the lawn?
Broadleaf herbicides can be applied as liquids or
granules. Before applying any herbicide, carefully read and
follow label directions. When applying liquid formulations,
potential spray drift problems can be avoided by following
simple precautions. Don’t spray when winds exceed five
miles per hour. Also, don’t spray when temperatures are
forecast to exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit within 24 hours of
the application. Since coarse droplets are less likely to drift
than fine sprays, select nozzles that produce coarse
droplets and use low sprayer pressure when applying liquid
broadleaf herbicides. When spraying, keep the nozzle close
to the ground. If only a few areas in the lawn have broadleaf
weed problems, spot treat these areas rather than spraying
the entire lawn. Apply just enough material to wet the leaf
surfaces.
Granular broadleaf herbicides are often combined with
fertilizers. Apply granular broadleaf herbicides and
fertilizer/broadleaf herbicide combinations when the weed
foliage is wet. Broadleaf herbicides are absorbed by the
weed’s foliage, not its roots. To be effective, the granules
must stick to the weeds and the herbicide must be absorbed
by the weed’s foliage. Apply granular products in the early
morning when the foliage is wet with dew or irrigate the lawn
prior to the application.
To ensure adequate leaf surface and herbicide
absorption, don’t mow the lawn two to three days before
treatment. After treatment, allow three or four days to pass
before mowing. This allows sufficient time for the broadleaf
weeds to absorb the herbicide and translocate it to their
roots. To prevent the broadleaf herbicide from being washed
When is the best time to plant tulips and
daffodils?
October is the ideal time to plant tulips, daffodils and
other spring-flowering bulbs in Iowa. When planted in
October, spring-flowering bulbs have sufficient time to
develop a good root system before the ground freezes in
winter. If weather permits, bulbs can be planted as late as
mid to late November.
How deep should I plant tulips and
daffodils?
Plant spring-flowering bulbs at a depth equal to three to
four times their maximum bulb diameter. Accordingly, tulips
and daffodils should be planted 6 to 8 inches deep,
crocuses and grape hyacinths only 3 to 4 inches deep.
Large bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils, should be spaced
4 to 6 inches apart. A 3-inch-spacing is adequate for
crocuses, grape hyacinths and other small bulbs.
Plant spring-flowering bulbs in clusters or groups to
achieve the greatest visual impact in the garden. When
planting daffodils and tulips, plant 10 or more bulbs of the
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same variety in an area. Smaller growing plants, such as
grape hyacinths and crocuses, should be planted in clusters
of 50 or more bulbs.
recognized disease in Iowa and nearby states that is a
problem mainly for older Bur oaks that are on upland sights.
For more information on bur oak blight please see this
HHPN article.
We also received a sample of gray leaf spot on turf. It
is a sporadic disease that we cannot recall seeing in the
past decade. Please see this information from Purdue
University for more information.
What are suitable planting sites for tulips,
daffodils and other spring-flowering
bulbs?
Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, grape hyacinths and
crocuses perform best in locations that receive at least six
hours of direct sun per day. Siberian squill, snowdrops and
snowflakes prefer sites in partial to heavy shade.
Tulips, daffodils and most other spring-flowering bulbs
require well-drained soils. Bulb rot may be a problem in
poorly drained soils. In poorly drained sites, planting in
raised beds is a good option.
Insects
Baldfaced hornet nests become noticeable in the fall
because they have reached their maximum size in the fall,
and because the camouflage provided by the summer
foliage is falling away. See our online article for information
about collecting and preserving a hornet's nest.
The common fruit flies become increasingly annoying in
the fall of the year. The occasional fruit fly is likely an
accidental invader carried in with produce from the garden.
But a large, consistent problem indicates the fruit flies are
breeding indoors and fruit on the countertop is never the
source. Look for a slow-moving or seldom-used drain as
described in our online article.
You gotta love the praying mantis. For reasons we
can't explain, this has been another good year for spotting
this unique, easily-recognized insect in central and northcentral Iowa. Read more online at the ISU Extension News
website for November 16, 2007.
How can I keep squirrels from digging up
newly planted tulip bulbs?
Several things can be done to make it difficult for
squirrels to dig up tulip bulbs. When planting tulips and other
spring-flowering bulbs, make sure they are planted at the
proper depth. Plant tulips, daffodils and hyacinths 6 to 8
inches deep. Smaller bulbs, such as crocuses and grape
hyacinths, should be planted 3 to 4 inches deep. As you
place soil over the bulbs, carefully tamp down the soil with
your hands or foot. Then water the planting area. Planting
the bulbs at the proper depth and firming the soil should
make it more difficult for the squirrels to dig up the bulbs.
While the aforementioned measures should help, the best
way to prevent squirrels from digging up tulips and other
bulbs is to cover the planting area with a piece of chicken
wire or hardware cloth. Bricks or other heavy objects can be
placed on the fencing material to keep it in place. It should
be safe to remove the fencing material in winter when the
ground freezes.
Forcing Spring-Flowering Bulbs
Indoors
By Richard Jauron, Department of Horticulture
Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocuses are a welcome
sight in spring. Gardeners can also enjoy these springflowering bulbs during the winter months by forcing them
indoors.
To enjoy spring-flowering bulbs in winter, gardeners
must begin the forcing process in late summer or early
fall. Gardeners need good quality bulbs, a well-drained
potting mix, and containers with drainage holes in the
bottom.
Begin by partially filling the container (pot) with potting
soil. Then place the bulbs on the soil surface. Adjust the soil
level until the tops of the bulbs are even with or slightly
below the rim of the container. The number of bulbs to plant
per pot depends on the size of the bulb and container.
Generally, 3 hyacinths, 3 to 5 daffodils, 5 to 7 tulips, and
10 to 12 crocuses can be planted in a 6-inch-diameter
pot. After arranging the bulbs in the pot, place additional
potting soil around the bulbs. However, don't cover the bulbs
completely. Allow the tops (noses) of the bulbs to stick
above the potting soil. After potting, water each container
thoroughly.
In order to bloom, spring-flowering bulbs must be
exposed to temperatures of 40 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit for
12 to 16 weeks. Possible storage sites include the
refrigerator, root cellar, or an outdoor trench. When using
the refrigerator for cold storage, place the potted bulbs in a
plastic bag if the refrigerator contains apples or other
ripening fruit. Ripening fruit give off ethylene gas that may
impair flower development. During cold storage, water the
Are there any spring-flowering bulbs that
rabbits and deer won’t eat?
Rabbits and deer are quite fond of tulips and crocuses.
However, rabbits and deer seldom bother daffodils,
hyacinths, grape hyacinths, Siberian squill and ornamental
onions.
About the Authors: Richard Jauron
Horticulture, 515-294-1871 , rjauron@iastate.edu, Willy
Klein, Extension Communications and External Relations,
515-294-0662, wklein@iastate.edu
Plant and Insect Diagnostic Clinic
Update - September 14, 2011
By Laura Jesse and Erika Saalau, Plant & Insect Diagnostic
Clinic
The following are highlights and updates about samples
and questions recently received in the Plant & Insect
Diagnostic Clinic:
Diseases
The past few weeks we have received a lot of Bur oak
blight samples. Bur oak blight is a relatively newly
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bulbs regularly and keep them in complete darkness.
Once the cold requirement has been met, begin to
remove the potted bulbs from cold storage. Place the bulbs
in a cool (50 to 60 degree Fahrenheit) location that receives
low to medium light. When the bulbs begin to grow, move
the plants to a slightly warmer area that receives bright
light. Keep the potting soil evenly moist during the forcing
period. Flowering should occur in 3 to 4 weeks. For a
succession of bloom, remove pots from cold storage at 10 to
14 day intervals.
plants, so keeping ornamentals away from peppers can
reduce the chance of damage. In a field situation
strawberries can serve as a source of cyclamen mites that
infest nearby peppers.
The damage is only skin deep with the inner tissue
appearing normal. I suspect the peppers could still be eaten
but I think the skin would be a bit too chewy! Luckily
cyclamen mites are only an odd occasional pest of peppers
and this is not something that most gardeners will ever
encounter.
Mosquito Activity Report,
September 11, 2011
By Brendan Dunphy, Department of Entomlogy
The following is the summary of mosquito activity in
Iowa from the ISU Medical Entomology Laboratory;
September 11, 2011.
The mosquito story is the same as it has been for
weeks. Mosquitoes are sparse throughout the Iowa
landscape and overall activity has declined steadily since
early July. The exception remains the flooded western Iowa
counties, where very intense CDC trap yields in July and
August were enough to warrant concern for residents in
proximity to the water; mosquitoes of all types (including
both floodwater and vector species) were very abundant.
Due to the current chills in the late summer air, even
rainstorms like the one we had in Ames this past week are
not expected to cause any mosquito resurgence. It seems
that we may indeed be coasting to that comfortable pestfree finish line.
Visit the Iowa Mosquito Surveillance website
http://mosquito.ent.iastate.edu/ to see the updated,
mosquito collection data for the year. The statewide
averages of mosquito counts by week (including a
comparison to last year's mosquito activity) are shown.
Click on "County" on the left side of the page to see
individual county data. Click "Year" to see historical data
comparing yearly mosquito population trends.
Severe russeting of high-tunnel-grown peppers apparently
caused by cyclamen mites.
Cyclamen Mite Damage to Green
Peppers
By Laura Jesse, Plant & Insect Diagnostic Clinic
One of my favorite ‘oddball’ samples is peppers damaged
by mites. The peppers look like potatoes growing on the
plant the way they are scabby and misshapened. Cyclamen
mites are the most likely culprit for these dramatic
symptoms. The mite feeding causes the peppers to russet;
the russeting is brown and rough to the touch and appears
over large portions of the pepper. If you look closely the
russeting has a crackled or net-like appearance.
Cyclamen mites cause this impressive damage by
feeding on the young developing fruit. They inject auxins
(growth regulators) as they feed which cause the fruit to
form the russeted appearance. It does not take very many
mites to cause damage. Once the damage is apparent the
mites are long gone and curative treatment is not possible.
Controls focus on cultural methods that prevent
cyclamen mites from getting to the peppers. Problems with
peppers in greenhouses are often from cyclamen mites
moving onto the pepper plants from nearby ornamental
Severe russeting of high-tunnel-grown peppers apparently
caused by cyclamen mites.
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Gardening Tip:
To protect flowers from your garden hose, take old
croquet mallets, coat them with wood preservative, and
then push them into the ground and let your hose slide
around the mallet and not your plant. If you need to, drive
a metal rod into the ground to make the mallet go into the
ground easier. If you have any tips that will help other
gardeners, please email them to me at
gordycat24@aol.com. Please put the words Gardening
Tip in the subject line and I will put them in upcoming
newsletters. Thanks for sharing your tips. Mary Ann
Emery
Russeted green pepper showing the superficial nature of
damage.
Forestry Field Day
ISU Forestry Extension
Allamakee County
Yellow River State Forest
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Program Time 9:00 Registration Coffee and Donuts
9:30 Introduction to the Yellow River State Forest. The
Forest Reserve Program in Iowa . History behind the
program. (Comments will be shared with legislators).
Mini-topics over lunch: Forestry cast share opportunities.
After lunch – What does a defect in a log really mean to
quality and price; scaling hardwood logs; savings logs.
Youth Programming
As you all know part of being a Master Gardener
involves service hours. Some people have a very easy time
finding ways to serve, while others may struggle to meet
their 9 volunteer hours required each year. Dubuque County
Extension Youth Program Specialist, Katie Peterson, has
some opportunities for you to fulfill those hours if you have a
desire to work with youth. She has multiple opportunities
available ranging from short term commitments to long term
commitments. Some examples of work include: leading a
garden club, teaching youth how to plant, helping youth
maintain a raised bed garden, beautifying parks, etc. If you
would like more information on earning your volunteer hours
while working with youth, please contact Katie Peterson at
katiejp@iastate.edu or (563)583-6496.
(Yellow River sawmill will be in operation)
How well do you really know the trees in your forest?
District foresters will conduct small group tours in the forest
to help participants learn or sharpen their tree ID skills.
4:00 p.m. Adjourn
Instructors: Bob Honeywell, Forester, Yellow River
State Forest, Iowa DNR; Bruce Blair, District Forester, Iowa
DNR; Dave Asche, District Director, Iowa DNR; Greg
Heidebrink, District Forester, Iowa DNR, Charles City; Jason
Walker, District Forester, Iowa DNR, Charles City; Paul
Tauke, DNR Forestry Bureau Chief; Aaron Lumley, DNR
Private Lands Section Leader Allamakee County Extension;
Jesse Randall, ISU Extension Forester.
Directions: From 5 miles SE of Rossville on Hwy. 76 to
B25; 4 miles NE on B25 to the Headquarters.
Cost: Free Noon Meal!!! BUT you must RSVP to Jesse
Randall (515-294-1168 or email randallj@iastate.edu) by
October 1 to guarantee your meal.
Iowa State University and U.S. Department of
Agriculture Cooperating Extension programs are
available to all without regard to race, color,
national origin, religion, sex, age, or disability.
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