May Day 2013 Costumes Your May Day assignment is to design and wear a medieval or Renaissance costume. Your costume will be graded and may win you a prize. You can use costumes from your semester one project if it is from the Renaissance or the Middle Ages. The requirement is to create a costume spending little to no money. However, if you would like to create an expensive costume, you may do so with your parents’ permission. PREMADE OR BOUGHT COSTUMES WILL RECEIVE NO CREDIT. Below are some helpful tips and examples to help you dress successfully as a Renaissance/Middle Ages character! While creating your costume, keep in mind that it has to be historically accurate but you may wear whatever underneath your costume for comfort as long as it does not show. If materials are not available for the class you had in mind, you may create the illusion of the fabric (silk, velvet, etc.) by the way you accessorize and/or design it. When accessorizing, make sure that any handheld items can be put on you clothing (in your belt, or a pocket, or in a basket). For most of the hour, your hands WILL be busy. Also, NO weapons-even fake ones-allowed, security will not be pleased if you are seen with it. Sumptuary Laws/Clothing Laws during the Renaissance circa 1400-1600 “Due to laws prohibiting who was allowed to wear what, and the cost of materials, there was a vast difference in attire between the classes. Not only did materials vary, but styles as well, as the lower classes opted for practicality in their clothing by necessity. Lower classes, such as laborers and apprentices would wear linen, a light, cool fabric derived from the flax plant, wool, or sheepskin. Fabrics available to those in the upper classes included silk, satin, velvet, and brocade. As this was prior to the industrial revolution, all harvesting, weaving, and production of fabrics and clothing was done by hand, thus greatly influencing price. As with fabric choices, the lower classes were limited in the amount of clothing they could afford, and may only have one set of clothing. Liveries, uniforms worn by servants with their master's colors or emblems on them, were provided by the master to the servant. Liveries were exempt from many of the sumptuary restrictions, as they represented the upper class master, not the servant. Women wore gowns comprised of a tight-fitting bodice and a fuller skirt that would hang down to the ankles. Dresses cut to expose much of the neckline were acceptable and fashionable. Clothing of the upper classes was heavy and cumbersome, and restricted movement for the wearer. Women of the lower classes wore much less restrictive styles, both for freedom of movement, and because they did not have servants to help them dress. In dressing, a lower class women would wear a much looser corset, or none at all, and would possibly eschew other underpinnings such as bum rolls (crescent-shaped cushions worn around the hips) or farthingales (hoop skirts used to hold the skirts out) for added comfort. All women's outfits started with a shift (a loose, linen smock worn to protect the gown), and stockings, which were normally knee-high. Petticoats were added both to fill out a gown and to keep the wearer warm. A man's outfit would start with a shirt, similar to today's dress shirt, but lacking the collar and cuffs we are familiar with and it would be more loose and blousy, instead sometimes utilizing lace collars and cuffs. Over this would go a doublet, or fitted top, and finally over that a jerkin, a close-fitting jacket. Men of the working class like their female counterparts dressed for utility and might simply wear the shirt alone. Instead of trousers as we are used to them today, men would wear hose on their legs. The upper hose were (often poufy) knee-length trousers which were met by the nether hose, or stockings, on the lower leg. In the reign of Henry VIII, doublets became shorter, creating a space between the upper hose and the doublet. In order to preserve modesty, the cod piece became popular again, having been around since the middle ages. The cod piece was originally a cloth or animal skin pocket in the hose or trouser, but were now made from various materials, and often padded or used for storage. *May Day 2013: NO cod pieces allowed; they will not be approved* Purple silk and sable fur: Reserved strictly for the Queen, King, and their family members. Velvet: The colors crimson and scarlet being reserved for only the highest nobility: dukes, marquises, and earls. Tinseled cloth: Cloth that was woven with strands of gold and silver, that is, tinsel, was reserved for the nobility including viscounts and barons. Gold, silver, or pearl embroidery: Reserved for dukes, marquises, earls (including the children of all three), viscounts, barons, and Knights of the Garter. Lynx and civet cat fur: Restricted to the above ranks, and including the wives of men who can dispend 100 by the year. Enameled buttons, chains, etc.: Restricted to the above nobility, and including wives of barons' sons, and wives of knights. Silk, satin, and damask: Reserved for the above, and including knights' daughters.” (Paige L. Hanson) Women Hair worn up usually signified married women while hair worn down signified unmarried. Fake flowers can be woven into your hair if you choose to do your hair in a bun or in a braid. If you would like to have your hair down, flower wreaths can be used to accessorize your outfit. Headpieces, such as, conical hats, veils, wreaths, woven flowers, or Tudor hats can be made by folded poster board, tulle, or fake flowers. REMEMBER: use fake flowers instead of real ones; real ones will dies/wilt. Make up was very simple and delicate. Noblewomen often used berry juice to color their cheeks and lips. During the Italian Renaissance, perfume was heavily used, by those who could afford it, to cover up body smell as they did not shower regularly. Applies to all classes Shoes: Leather sandals, clogs, plain flats, or boots. Noblewomen shoes were more elaborate and tailored. Accessories: feathered/paper/faux fans. Noblewoman had more detailed jewelry, middle class had some jewelry and peasants usually did not have any. Peasants also had baskets and cooking tools but any items that you have to carry are not recommended. Aprons, scarves, and belts were also used Noblewoman Dress: Floor-length and billowing, full skirt Square neckline and V-shaped corset bodice Slips that add volume to skirt underneath Colors like blue, green, purple, and red Materials like silk and soft linen Hair: Large headpieces: conical hats, veils, or Tudor hoods Middleclass Women Dress: Decline in elaborateness More A-line dresses- the fullness of the dress is not as much as a noblewomen Bruegel-The Wedding Dance Peasant Dress: Peasant top or plain white button-down shirt (fold collar in) Ankle-length plain skirt Apron over skirt Not detailed or ornate Stiff, rough linen Drab colors such as white and cream, not necessarily only black Hair: Linen veils (you can use a thin cotton towel with bobby pins) Flowers (put fake flowers in your hair, a wreath, or a headband. Real flowers not recommended; they will wilt!) Gypsy Gold, colored jewelry such as hoop earrings and bangles Flowing and layered skirts Bright colors Blouses with ruffles or lace Colored scarfs Pirate Large shirt with collar tucked in or peasant blouse Corset or vest Peasant skirt or simple, long dress Apron on top Tears, rips, and rugged material and colors Men During the Renaissance, long pants were expensive and were not common. All men in all classes wore tights with breach pants. Buttons were also an issue during the Renaissance. They were usually made from wilted wood or animal bones; this was a status symbol. For your costume, you may want to use an old button up oversized shirt with the buttons cut off. Add holes to the other side of the shirt and add ribbon (peasants), lace (wealthy), or cover it with tin as that was also common during that time. Applicable to all classes: Shoes: Leather or faux leather/wooden boots, sandals, clogs. The wealthy/monarchs also had buckles for decoration but that was for formal occasions only. Accessories: Hats made of felt, wool, leather, or twill and decorated with ribbons or feather-wealthy (decorate berets with ribbons or make it out of paper). Straw hats, slope hats made of wool, or cloth hats-peasant. Rope/belt to hold together cloths. Nobleman Torso: Layers of oversized clothing (i.e. a shirt with a vest over it) Short cloaks with high collars Silk, velvet, and lace fabrics Belt Legs: Short, puffy pants (Take sweatpants or loose shorts and bunch them at the knee using rubber bands) Tights Van SomerKing James I of England Peasant Man Torso: Oversized shirt White or off-white, green, dull blue Not many layers Overtunic with an undershirt (rectangular cloth with holes for your head and arms with a rope to hold the tunic in place) for warmth Vest, cloak, cape (optional) Legs: Short, bunched-up pants (Take sweatpants or loose shorts and stuff with material, put a rubber band around the excess material and tuck it underneath) Scrap cloth tied around calves/bottom portion of the legs with rope/leather for warmth and protection (use long socks) Cardinal Long, dark-colored robe, preferably with a hood (Take a large piece of cloth and cut holes for the head and arms. Wear a hoodie underneath and pull out the hood, borrow a graduation gown or borrow an abaya (long robe) from a Muslim friend) Large wooden cross necklace (Glue two pieces of wood together and attach to a long piece of leather or rope) Jester Jester hats Bells Bright colors Puppets, things to juggle, etc. (Make sure they attach to your costume or are easy to set down somewhere or in a basket. You will need your hands!) Pirate Large, over-sized, long-sleeved shirt V-necks Vest Long, plain and dark pants tucked into boots or long socks Velvet cloth tied like a bandana Leather boots jewelry Knight In between peasant and noblemen Outfits were more tailored, better quality fabric Vest Tights or long socks Armor can be made out of tinfoil, duct tape, cardboard Plain dark shorts or pants hidden with boots Boots Arquebusier/Forester Short, bunched-up pants (Take sweatpants or loose shorts and stuff with material, put a rubber band around the excess material and tuck it underneath) A colorful t-shirt with bottom cut to waist Long sleeved white shirt inside Beret-style hat Flat sandals Work Cited: Jackson, Sheila. Costumes for the Stage: A Complete Handbook for Every Kind of Play. New York: Dutton, 1978. Print. Gorsline, Douglas W. What People Wore: A Visual History of Dress from Ancient times to Twentieth-century America. New York: Viking, 1952. Print. Yarwood, Doreen. European Costume: 4000 Years of Fashion. London: Batsford, 1975 Real Life Examples Shirt with long skirt on top, accessorize Make a knight’s costume out of card board and duct tape Mike W5 Ruby B6 Buy a dress and add ribbons, a skirt, and lace to it Krista L5 Samidha L5 A shirt underneath a skirt (bed sheet sewn or duct taped) and a belt and knit scarf Wrap scarves around your head to make the headdress, jewelry, and ribbon to your dress