A Voyage to and around the Faroes From The Log of “Conspiracy” 24th June to 14 July 2015 The Faroes are situated about halfway between the Scottish Mainland and Iceland about 215 miles a little bit west of due North from Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides. There are 18 island in total and only one of them Litla Dimun is not inhabited. The islands cover an area 8o miles long by about 40 miles wide and are notorious for their vicious and ferocious tides. Why do I want to go there? Because very few people go there, even fewer sailors go there and to most of us it’s an unknown “where is it” land. We set sail from Arisaig to Stornoway and then on to The Faroes. This log covers the part of the trip from Stornoway back to Stornoway. There were 5 of us on board, all SCYC members. If you recall in March, Jude put out an email inviting people to join me. Myself Mike Crummy, the owner of Conspiracy a 38’ Westerly Oceanranger and who’s idea this was in the first place, Richard Hoppins, who’s crossed “the pond” and had his own 37’ Moody, 2 dinghy sailors Gordon Haycock and Joe Helm who have chartered keelboats and Rick Atkin who had no experience of keelboats apart from 2 days 3 years ago, during keelboat week where I showed off my handling skills by trying to drive Conspiracy onto the Lighthouse Island (St. Tudwal’s West) sailing too close to avoid having to put in a tack. When we did tack, the genoa came over too quickly, stalled the turn and we drifted extremely close to the island. (We didn’t hit it, the boat behind us thought we had, and I had to put on the engine into hard reverse get us clear of the island cliff face. If someone had been leaning against the pulpit they would have touched the cliff face!). In spite of this Rick still wanted to join us. Some people just can’t take a hint! The first sighting of the Faroes A few jagged rocks with a fog bank behind them were the first indications that we were approaching land. These were the Sumbiarsteinur Rocks of Munken and Flesjarner directly on line from the Butt of Lewis to the Faroes. It came after the wind had died at 4 in the morning. We suffered the flogging foresail for another 2 hours till the SOG – speed over the ground – dropped to 2.8 knots so we motored from then on in. It had got cold the night before and whilst it was a lovely evening the south wind was cold. We decided to erect the full cockpit canopy to eat our evening meal in the cockpit and it got left up. It made a tremendous difference to the overall warmth of the boat and standing the night watches to say nothing of keeping us dry. At about 15.00 Torshavn Radio contacted us for a progress report as we were running late. We gave them a new eta and our destination of Tvørory on the island of Sudaroy, the most southerly of the Faroe Islands. Using a free GRIB website we learnt that a F7 was forecast midway across. Rick realised that by delaying our departure from Stornoway by 2 hours it would pass ahead of us. So instead of leaving at 20.00 we left on the dot of 22.00, all of us eager to get started. Because of work commitments Gordon and Joe could only join us and leave us from Stornoway via the Ullapool to Stornoway ferry. I’ve always been jealous of logs which start “We left the Solent at midday on Tuesday and arrived in Rio two weeks later.” However there’s very little to report on either passage. We saw very little on the passage north, a couple of fishing vessels on AIS, and pod of dolphins played with us for a while. A few seabirds and the islands of Sula Sgeir and North Rona in the distance. We missed the strong winds and in fact had no wind at all on the second day! Akraberg, the most southerly tip of Sudaroy the southern most of the Faroese Islands was hidden in fog and the foghorn welcomed us with a mournful note, but after 200 miles without seeing land, it was very welcome to us. As we were about 5 miles off the coast we were still in hazy sunshine and got to see the impressive off lying islands of Litla Dimun and Stora Dimun in impressive towering grandeur. Once we got abreast of Akraberg we felt the effect of the tides that the Faroes are noted for, by being 2 knots against us. In spite of there only being at the most a 2 metre range of tide there are places where the tide flows at 20 knots and commonly there are 12 knot overfalls through the island archipelagos. See page 24 for a graphic drawing of how bad they are. There are 2 places, one at the north of Suduroy and the other between the islands of Koltur and Hestor and the main island of Stremoy where it is positively dangerous for any boats to enter in wind over tide conditions. We motored in to Tvørory (I never learnt to pronounce this correctly, something like tuv grory) and called up the Harbour Master on VHF 16 then 12 to no avail so I then tried good old mobile and got through immediately. “Always use that” he says, “we rarely use the VHF”. He directed us to a wooden pier at the bottom of the fjord and met us in person, taking our lines and showed us the free electricity, water hose and rubbish bins and welcomed us. He then took Rick back to the HM’s office showing him all the eating, drinking, bakery and supermarket shops on the way. There he gave him their keys to their showers which also had a washing machine and dryer in them. The controls were all in Faroese but a bit of intelligence soon worked out what was what. These were all without charge too. We cleared a very informal customs who came on board to greet us and then we were off to the showers and something to eat. The approach to Tvðrory The rain poured down! We visited a lovely pub/café near the HM’s office with the most laidback blond giant who did everything to dissuade us from staying there and then cooked us up a most delicious kedgeree with a Thai sauce. He also had a good selection of beers at a reasonable price. Being strangers we felt that it would be discourteous of us not to sample them all. They also had the best wifi connection we had all trip. We then returned back to the boat to chat and relax till well after midnight remarking on how light it was; we were around 62°N; had a very peaceful night and we all slept well. I’d operated a 1½ hours on 6 hours off night watch system for the 2 nights sailing up and a 1 hour on 4 hours off day watch system for the 5 of us and this worked very well. None of us were overtired. I slept in the navigators berth immediately behind the chart table and 2 everyone had strict instructions to wake me if anything at all troubled them. As it was I slept fitfully but slept very deeply between the wakeful periods. Tuesday morning, we woke about 8.45 to wall to wall liquid sunshine! Cloud down to 50’ and rain. Lots of it. We all felt refreshed and so decided to move on to Torshavn, the capital of the Faroes on Stremoy. Rick’s elbow was still troubling him and full medical facilities would be there. He’d come on board at Arisaig with a niggling elbow which he thought was a horsefly bite. It got worse and worse and very angry looking so I found a chemist in Stornoway and took him to it. They sent him straight away to a local doctor who despite just closing for the weekend drained Rick’s elbow and gave him a course of antibiotics. Rick took the shower keys back to the HM, got a weather forecast – a front coming through just behind us with winds F4-5 and got instructions for us to head for Torshavn. Leave 1 hour before low water, head east for 3 to 4 miles then go north and the tide will help you all the way. It wasn’t quite what I thought so rang him to check on +1 hour for summer time. No need he says. So we cast off from the pier, motored out of the fjord and put up genoa once in open water. The wind was right behind us again. We followed the HM’s instructions to the letter and had 1½ knots against us nearly all the way. We saw NOTHING in the thick fog! Big islands, little islands, fishing boats, tankers and freighters, all of which passed us by but we did see the large Irish Sea type inter island ferry pass us ½ a mile away going both ways. We had our radar on and the Echomax radar enhancer on which makes us look like an aircraft carrier. It wasn’t till we passed the island of Sandoy did the tide start to go with us. We called up the Torshavn HM about a mile out but couldn’t see it and he advised that there was no traffic in our way but that visibility was very poor and to take care – we hadn’t noticed! Once inside the harbour walls we had a slight dice with a ferry boat trying to come out, he insisting on the Rules of the Road, and me insisting on the “Conspiracy” way of doing things but we missed each other and moored up in Torshavn’s very safe and pleasant marina, 40 miles from Sudaroy. Electricity was supplied using a credit card bit of plastic and I’m not sure we really worked out how to make full use it. I also think that we could have used it at other ports around the islands as they had card operated supplies but no card machine that we could see. We ended up staying 3 nights in Torshavn and our wives were able to keep track on us via a webcam mounted on the roof of Hotel Torshavn facing us. It was funny phoning my wife on the mobile and her being able to see me on the foredeck of Conspiracy chatting to her. The next day (Tuesday) we spent pottering about. Joe, Gordon and Rick went for a long walk to see the old Viking settlement at Kirkjubour over the hills looking over Torshavn. Richard joined them for part of the way In the meantime I messed about on “Conspiracy” doing odd jobs. The steaming light stopped working – inside the deck plug was a congealed coagulating oxidised mass, so a new plug was needed, the forward loo pump was squeaking loudly – a bit of ptfe grease, and a couple of other minor things which I’ve forgotten just now, all needing attention. It was a lovely warm sunny day and a lot of people were out and about enjoying the very rare sunshine. They’ve had a worse summer this year than we have. In the afternoon I wandered behind the blue house beside us taking photographs. 3 On Thursday we took a bus to Miðvágur on the island of Vágur, SW of Torshavn. The only island with land flat enough to have a runway and the island’s airport. This was to see the estuary of Sørvágsvaten (literally means South Vágur Lake!) a long sausage shaped lake which empties via the worlds shortest river 30m long then by a 146m vertical plummet into the sea. It was here that Vikings used to throw slaves that weren’t useful anymore off the cliff. A lot of the slaves came from Britain and it’s a sobering thought that at the age of 68 I would have been at the bottom of the cliffs many years ago! Very spectacular with stunning views of the southern islands and with the added excitement that every now and again a rogue wave will pluck you off the cliff top, so the guide book said! We just got wet with spray! We left Torshavn in glorious sunshine and arrived in Miðvágur in thick mist. So thick in fact that we didn’t see the lake until we were about 50 feet from it. And as for the views, forget it! However it was a good 3 hour walk there and back and got us out of a rut. That evening Joe and I worked out a sail plan to see the rest of the islands. Rick’s elbow by now was giving him problems again and starting to look very angry once more so Friday morning we went our separate ways exploring and Rick went up to the hospital. It ended up with him staying all day and having a general anaesthetic and them taking out a damaged little sack that lives between the elbow joints. This cured the problem and apart from dressing changes didn’t give any further problems during the rest of the trip. Richard and I stayed by the boat and wandered round the harbour area. Joe and Gordon went off on the free red buses that service Torshavn. Friday’s delay meant a re-working of the itinery. Moving around the islands is very much dependent on the tides and the delay meant leaving an hour later which took us into the leaving at 4 am or 4pm bracket. So after a bit of thinking and planning I decided that we could still do the route but by going anticlockwise instead of clockwise and on Saturday morning we set off at 8 in the morning for Klaksvik, the Faroes’ second largest city 19 sea miles away once again in thick fog! Have a quick look around Klaksvig, wait for the tide and then move on north and westwards to Eiði a further 22 miles away. Two points of note on this passage were being followed and watched by a Danish warship which appeared out of the fog on our port side, stayed with us for a couple of minutes or so then accelerated away. Perhaps they couldn’t believe or radar return. The second point was at a narrows just short of Klaksvik where we found 4 knots of tide against us when it should have been with us. This threw me considerably and cast into doubt my understanding and knowledge of the tides. After calling up the HM at Klaksvik, and being told to moor next to a blue fishing boat I misunderstood his directions and very nearly ran us aground……Over the VHF came very urgently , “Conspiracy, turn around you are heading into shallow water. Not that old blue fishing boat, the one to your starboard!!!” Murphy of Murphy’s Law was my apprentice, I taught him everything I knew. We moored up safely around midday and fortunately weren’t far from the HM’s office. Totally unsettled by the tides I went up to see him whilst the others had lunch and explored the town. The HM’s English wasn’t very good but it was a lot better than my non-existent Faroese and between the two of us he explained the tides to me and gave me photocopies of the local “almanaki”. However it was nothing that I hadn’t worked out but it just happened that at the narrows 3 fjords merge and the tidal stream at that point is in it’s own time zone. He also showed to me the best way to get to Eiði and the best time to leave. We left at 15.00, the best time but took the wrong turning and went up the eastern fjord where the tides changed 2 hours later and so had the tide against us once more! 4 Unless you are very lucky you’ll find that sailing in the islands is virtually impossible with katabatic winds, downdrafts and funnelling. For example leaving Klaksvik we had 32 knots behind us and within 6 minutes there was 8 knots on the nose. So, there we were going in the right direction but not necessarily in the right fjord motoring through a long narrow passageway with impressive green cliffs rising up into the clouds. The size of it all was beyond us to fully understand and it wasn’t until you suddenly noticed just above the shoreline a homestead that we could appreciate just how massive these mountains were and brought it all into scale. And although we were in the wrong fjord, between the islands of Kunoy and Kalsoy, being able to see both sides relatively close was more awe inspiring. Coming out of the fjord was our most northerly point of the trip 62°22.78’N. Just off the Kallur Peninsular. Looking behind us about 5 miles away was the most northerly point of the Faroes, occasionally revealing itself amongst very dark low clouds. Now we joined the tide hitting in places 9 knots SOG with a boat speed of 5 knots, flashing past the most northerly point of Eysturoy, the second largest island in the group, and round past Risin og Kellin the two giant stacks of the giant and the witch and into the small fishing harbour of Eiði by 19.10 hrs. Risin og Kellin are said to be an Icelandic giant and his wife who was a witch. The giant used to raid the Faroes so he decided to move it closer to his home. He and his wife came one night, threw a chain round the islands and tried to tow them back to Iceland. They struggled all night and didn’t notice the time passing. Suddenly it was daylight and being a giant and witch who only go out at night, they turned to stone and have been there ever since. We had a lazy start in the morning with the tides not allowing us to leave till 14.00 Gordon went off looking for rare mosses and the rest of us walked back along the headland towards the stacks. It was Sunday and we didn’t see a sole. Everything closed and the Hotel on the hillside shut 3 years ago. A café opposite the shop offered free wifi but there was no sign of life there either. However it is a well sheltered harbour with loos. No electric and a water tap much further away than anyone’s hose. It was a nice sunny clear day for once and we set off for the bird cliffs and down to Vestmannan. Something we were all looking forward to as one of the highlights of the trip. For once the tides behaved themselves and once again we were showing the SOG at over 9 knots. The bird cliffs were majestic towering above us but not a lot of birds and very little guano which seemed to indicate not a lot of birds. Halfway down the mist came rolling in and it all disappeared much to our disappointment so it was on with the radar, on with the steaming lights, on with the Echomax, up with the canopy, one of the rare times, if not the only time we had had it stowed and onwards into the Vestmannan Fjord. Notorious for it’s overfalls at the western entrance they were quite benign but still in evidence and it was here we reached our most westerly point of 7°15.8’W. We motored on round into the fjord and into the harbour of Vestmannan. Tried to call up the HM but as it was Sunday there was no reply and we moored clear of other boats in the NW corner of the large harbour. With it being Sunday it was very quiet and few people about. We did find a café but it closes at 6 o’clock! That was at the far eastern side of the harbour a fair walk from the boat. Also here was the Tourist Information Office and wifi, a convenience store garage, and a bit further on a supermarket. 5 Once again we ate on board with one of Joe’s tasty creations and I worked out the route and departure time for the Island of Sandoy at 13.00 an hour before HW. We’re starting to head back south now. In the morning Rick and I went to see the HM to try and get a wifi connection and weather forecasts. The pilot book also said that showers, water and wifi were available from the HM. This is not the case but I was allowed to use his computer to get weather reports. It was too complex for me to work out tomorrows weather but it didn’t look too good but the first indications for the journey back looked promising with northerly winds forecast. I was getting concerned about our water usage as we hadn’t filled up since Torshavn. The HM got a length of hose and lifted up a manhole cover and handed me the other end. Let it run he says and a great jet of dark brown rusty water shot out, slowly getting lighter and I was just about to put it in our tanks when it then turned green, back to brown and then eventually to water coloured. I got him to reduce the pressure but it was still high and we filled the tanks in record time! I wandered back to the Tourist Office to get free wifi and to download the weather and worked out that Wednesday was the best day to set off for Stornoway. Joe and Gordon had to be back for the 07.00 ferry from Stornoway on Saturday. The heavens opened once again and I got soaked going back to the boat. In the meantime, Joe and Gordon went up to explore above and beyond the hydro-electric dam which overlooks the town, and Rick and Richard wandered off separately to explore the town. Whilst it was quite a nice place it is very much a small fishing port and I’d say there was nothing much to excite me about the place. Especially when everything was shut and viewed from a cold and soaking wet body! We cast off from Vestmannan at 13.30 and had probably one of the more scenic and spectacular motor/sails of the trip. Down through the narrow Vestmannan Fjord across to the west side of Koltor Island which looks remarkably like a thick slice of cheese and then down the west coast of Sandoy. Lovely scenic views, but heavily overcast and a cold but light N. wind. The wind veered slowly to the south, we were heading south, and started to increase. So for a change the canopy was up. Turned into the channel between Sandoy and Skuvoy and were met by rain, wind and a 3 knot tide all against us. We kept close inshore and went north into the bay rather than a direct eastward route and freed ourselves of the tide. At 17.30 we moored up in the cosy inner harbour of Sandur on Sandoy. Just off the entrance is, as far as I’m aware, the only sandy beach in the Faroes. Then the wind really got up and whistled and howled in the rigging all night long. This is a really lovely village, clean with multicoloured houses, friendly people, a few shops say about 4, and a country feel about the place. Free showers beneath the HM’s office and what looked like a fishermen’s rest room. Here I topped up the fuel tank from our spare cans taking 80 litres since leaving Arisaig. With the wind still fresh and the clouds still dark and heavily overcast we had breakfast and I spotted some fishermen close by. Grabbing the chart I chased after them and chatted to a fisherman about to depart. By chance he was leaving for Sudaroy but was heading further south than us to a small port called Vagur. In chatting he told me he’d spent a year in Isle Ornsay on the Isle of Skye about 15 miles north of Arisaig where Conspiracy is currently based and where we’d started from! He told me he was leaving now (09.00) because of very strong winds this afternoon instead of the ideal time of 11.00. He then spent the next 15 mins with me telling me in great detail and showing me on the chart the ideal route. Straight across to Skuvoy, keep very close to the island until past the southernmost point, straight across to Stora Dimun, keep very close in to Stora Dimun, then head due south to Sudaroy 6 and the tide will take you into the Tvørory fjord entrance. After hastily rounding up my wandering crew who had gone off expecting to depart around 11 0’clock by 9.30 we’d departed and ran immediately into a heavy rain shower which blotted out everything. We headed south to Skuvoy and saw the fishing boat ahead of us. He then slowed down and let us catch him up and we motored in convoy with him leading all the way to Tvørory. Opposite the entrance I called him on the VHF and thanked him. This was typical of the help and friendship we met from the Faroese. The trip was a bit rocky at times and land disappeared in thick rain showers at times but we got there safely and comfortably before the wind really got up in the afternoon. We arrived in the fjord at 13.00 and were moored up on the same pier as before at 13.20. And the heavens opened once more. Rick went off and got the keys for the showers again and then met the rest of us at the museum near the pub and HM’s office. They especially opened the museum for us and we spent the rest of the afternoon chatting with the curator, who as a small boy remembered Charles Lindberg landing in the fjord in a seaplane on his way across the Atlantic. We spent the early evening in the pub served by the same blond giant whose welcoming comment was “God, it’s the Brits!” At least he remembered us. Gave us the usual abuse and turned up Led Zeplin he was playing. Had a very enjoyable last night there and met some French people on their way to Greenland who totally ignored us – they were on the next berth to us on the pier too! However at our request the waitress played Abba’s Waterloo on the sound system! I checked the tide tables for the last time and came to the conclusion that leaving 3 hours after high water would give us 7 hours of tide heading south and this meant leaving at 4pm. Gordon wandered off for a final walk up to the top of the hills behind us collecting his moss samples, Rick and Richard went into town and I went to the pub/café for a final check on the weather forecasts to find that a deep low was going to pass the west side of the Hebrides on Friday afternoon with F7 steady winds brushing the coastline…..and this is summer I thought! If we maintained an average of 5 knots then we would be in Stornoway by 08.00 on Friday and would hopefully miss the worst of it. The sail back was uneventful. We left on the dot of 16.00, with the wind directly behind us so we flew just the genoa, left the canopy/orangery up and sailed east for an hour then turned south with 2 to 3 knots of tide with us for around the 7 hours. I kept the same watch system and at 09.40 the next morning the wind had died to around 6 knots and SOG had dropped to 3.8 knots so it was back on with the engine till 01.50 on Friday morning. By this time we were passed the Butt of Lewis and were heading S.W for Stornoway and had a lovely sail up to Arnish Point at the entrance to Stornoway harbour and were moored up by 06.50. We all then went back to bed and surfaced around 10.30. Once again the wildlife on the passage was poor. We had some porpoises opposite Broad Bay near Stornoway, no dolphins this time and no whale sighting. A few fulmars mid way, some gannets nearish to land, and a few puffins. There were other birds too, kittiwakes, razorbills, guillemots, and black guillemots but not a lot of them. We saw more deep sea fishing boats and on the AIS saw a couple of yachts heading northwards. But most of the time we were on our own. Statistics Arisaig to Stornoway was 90 miles via Sound of Sleat and the Inner Sound. 7 Stornoway to Sudaroy was 214 miles Sudaroy to Stornoway was 211 miles Total miles from Stornoway was 564.7 26 gallons of fuel used Engine was on 51% of the time Average Speed was 4.86kts Average Speed was 5.45kts Total miles from Arisaig was 780.9 34 gallons Arisaig to Arisaig 53% From Arisaig to Arisaig Useful Pilot Notes. Knowledge of the tides in the Faroe Islands is vital. They are fierce and can be extremely dangerous. You must arrive with the tide tables for Sudaroy Fjord as all the ports on the Faroes refer to the tide changes here. Rather than High Water and Low Water they refer to West Going and East Going. Tidal range is only 2 metres at springs. Put simply if you are going eastwards then leave at local low water. If you are going west leave at local high water. There are very few rocks about so going close inshore to avoid strong currents and work the eddys is always an option if you get timings wrong. All moorings and harbour fees were free. In some cases electricity was free too. Wifi is difficult to find. Everywhere outside Torshavn shuts down on Sundays and not a lot happens in Torshavn. Cafes and Pubs are very few and far between. We ate onboard most of the time with Joe and Gordon doing all the cooking and the two Richards doing the washing up. We found that whilst eating out was more expensive than the UK it wasn’t that much more and beer was around £4 a pint against £3 in the UK. (In Kyle of Lochalsh near Skye we were charged £5 a pint on the way back to Arisaig!) Wine was horrendous starting about £30 a bottle. Spirits weren’t even thought about there! We stocked up in Stornoway Tesco’s. There are plenty of ATMs and you do not need to take currency with you. Notes are Danish, but coins are Faroese so can’t be used elsewhere. Stornoway is a great launching off port with full marina facilities, very helpful staff who’ll always find room for you and large Tesco and Co-op superstores (closed on Sundays). Airport and Ferry port close by to pick up or change crew. Tuðrory on Sudaroy is a lovely port to make your port of entry and to clear customs. Re check any of the HMs suggestions for leaving. I’ve read one or two logs since and they all have experienced the tides against them. It has a good pub with good wifi and good food. Torshavn is a lovely harbour and city. An ideal place to make your base to explore the rest of the islands and they are nearly all interlinked with road tunnels. Klaksvik is more of a fishing port and doesn’t hold a lot of interest in the harbour area. Eiði has a very sheltered harbour and would make a good launching port for onward travel to Iceland and Greenland. The hotel referred to in pilot books shut in 2013. 8 Vestmannan. Contrary to the pilot books, showers and wifi are not available from the H.M. Water is delivered at high pressure, too much for yacht tanks. The only café closes at 18.00. Shops and good wifi at Tourist Information are a long 2 mile walk from the harbour. Sandur on Sandoy is a lovely place and well worth a visit (It tends to be bypassed). Expect fog, mist, low cloud and rain. However if it’s misty in the east it’ll be clear in the west and vica versa. It’s also quite cool about 12°C in summer. If you can afford it, a full working cockpit canopy is an absolute boon. It kept us dry and warm both whilst in port and on passage and we had somewhere to hang damp waterproofs instead of having them down below. Whilst I wouldn’t advocate it for coastal sailing, on long trips the canopy didn’t interfere with sail handling but you are aware of the lack of wind sense. Lastly you are made very welcome in the Faroes. If you’re stuck or want advice everybody we met from the HMs to people in the street to local fishermen and they were all more than helpful. It is a lovely place and well worth the effort of getting there. When I stepped onto the pontoon at Stornoway, there was a lovely 45’Rival Bowman ketch opposite to us and after exchanging pleasantries I asked where they were off to, “Grimsey Island” came the reply……… Grimsey Island ?…Oh! Grimsey Island! Hmmmm! Now, there’s a thought! (I’ll leave it up to you dear reader to “Google” Grimsey Island) Written by Mike Crummy with photographs from Rick Atkin, Gordon Haycock and Joe Helm 9