Ball Python Care Sheet - Avian Exotic Animal Clinic

advertisement
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP- Avian
(317) 879-8633
Ball Python Care Sheet
(Python Regius)
Introduction:
Ball pythons come from West-Central Africa. They are semi-arboreal
which means they climb trees and hide in bushes. Their diet in the wild includes
various African rodents including gerbils and spiny mice. They tend to be most
active at night.
Ball pythons are one of the most popular snakes bought in pet stores.
They are relatively inexpensive, are beautifully marked, have a relatively friendly
disposition, and generally do not get more than four feet in length. They can be
easily identified from other snakes due to their brown, black and tan markings.
Captivity Requirements:
Correct caging for a snake includes providing correct heat/light cycles
within an enclosure that is of adequate size to prevent escape. Small Ball
Pythons (16-28 inches) will do well in a ten gallon size enclosure (20x10x12
inches). An adult Ball Python (30-48 inches) should be housed in a thirty gallon
enclosure (36x12x18 inches). Newspaper or indoor/outdoor carpeting are
substrates that are affordable, readily available, and easy to clean. All ball
pythons require a secure place to hide, which can be hand made or purchased
from a pet store. A water dish that is big enough for the entire snake to fit into is
necessary to help maintain cage humidity and to aid in the shedding process.
Heat can safely be achieved by providing a heat mat underneath the cage,
a clip type UV light with an aluminum reflector during the day and a ceramic bulb,
which gives off heat and no light, in the evening to maintain heat. AVOID "Hot
Rocks." Hot rocks will only provide a centralized heat that will not adequately
heat the enclosure. “Hot Rocks” can cause thermal burns, a commonly seen
problem in pet snakes. It is not advisable to allow your snakes to come into
direct contact with any heat source. Daytime temperatures should range about
82-85˚F with a basking spot around 90˚F. Nighttime temperatures should not
drop below 75˚F. It is important to monitor the humidity levels in the enclosure.
The recommended humidity level for ball pythons is around 60%. This can be
monitored by a hygrometer, which can usually be purchased at pet stores or a
local hardware store.
Diet:
Ball pythons can be finicky eaters. Wild caught adults are generally
difficult to feed and maintain as a pet, which is why captive hatched and bred
snakes are preferable. Younger snakes (16-30 inches) that are still growing fast
will need more food. Older snakes (30-48 inches) won't need to feed as often. It
is recommended that younger snakes are fed every 7-10 days; older snakes can
be fed every 2-3 weeks. Since snakes eat whole animals vitamin supplements
are not required. We recommend feeding killed prey for the safety of the snake.
Scratches and bite wounds are frequently seen on snakes fed live prey. If your
Ball Python resists eating traditional white mice sold by pet stores, gerbils or
spiny mice may be substituted since these are natural prey items.
Diseases:
Dysecdisis— Problems shedding skin, commonly caused by low humidity.
Mites- Appear as small, red or black specks. Infected snakes may spend long
periods of time soaking, or rubbing. To visualize, rub a clean white paper towel
down the entire length of the snake’s body.
Stomatitis- Also known as Mouth Rot. Inflammation of the mouth commonly
caused by poor husbandry, which weakens the immune system and allows
bacteria to rapidly reproduce.
Respiratory infections- Can be caused by viral, bacterial, fungal, or parasitic
pathogens. Symptoms may include wheezing or bubbles from nostrils.
Intestinal parasites- A variety of parasites commonly afflict snakes. To prevent
exposure keep snake’s enclosure clean and disinfect frequently. Do not feed
snakes wild prey.
Dermatitis- Inflammation of the skin often due to bacterial infections caused by
poor husbandry or contact with harsh chemicals.
Ballard, B.,Cheek, R. (2003). Exotic Animal Medicine, 81-126. Photo courtesy of Mark Lucas at
markmlucas.compythongallery.htm
Download