95 Queens Park Parade
Kingsthorpe
NN2 6LR
Tel: 01604 712070
Royal Python (Python Regius) Care Sheet
Royal Pythons are large bodied snakes, which come in a range of colour variations and morphs.
Generally, normal Royals are earthy colours like brown, beige and black with gold and white
markings. They can grow up to 6 ft (180cm) in length though 4-5 ft (120-150cm) is more usual.
Females tend to grow larger than males. 20 - 30 years is average for a Royal Python in captivity, but
it is not inheard of for them to reach 40 years with appropriate care. They can be found across
Western, Eastern and Central Africa and are a terrestrial species that are active at night and hide
away during the day. They prefer life on the ground and frequent forest floors and grassy savannas
in their natural habitat.
They are very popular as a first reptile pet as they have a very docile temperament, as they are more
likely to curl up in a ball to protect themselves than strike at a potential threat, hence their common
other name ‘Ball python’, meaning they are easy and safe to handle. Regular handling is important
to allow them to get used to human contact but as they are quite a timid species this should not be
done for long periods of time.
HABITAT: The aim is to provide as far as possible a recreated wild habitat. This should be to
encourage natural behaviour, maintain good health and minimise any stress associated with
captivity.
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Vivarium For an adult royal python a 36 x 18 x 18 inches (90 x 45 x 45cm) wooden vivarium
with glass sliding front doors with adequate ventilation is sufficient. With hatchlings it is
better to house them in a smaller container around 12 x 5 x 6 inches (30 x 12 x 15 cm) until
they start to feed on a regular basis, then they can be moved into a bigger vivarium.
Heating: To reduce stress caused by the bright lights and the light being left on all the time it
is advised to use a ceramic heater in conjunction to a thermostat. If you would like a bulb in
the enclosure to be able to see your snake then use a low wattage energy bulb, this should
be on a 12 hour/day light cycle. Heat mats are not advisable as they can cause burns
especially with the heavy weight of an adult snake, though can be used with juvenilles in
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conjunction with a thermostat. Wire mesh guards should be fitted over all heat sources
used within the vivarium to prevent thermal burns.
The vivarium temperature should be 25-32°C (77-88°F) during the day, with a night-time
drop of a few degrees. This drop may naturally occur with your thermostat at the same
settings with a change in room temperature. Night-time temperatures should not drop
below 23°C (75°F). There should be a temperature gradient from the basking site at one end
of the enclosure to the other cooler end, enabling the snake to regulate its own temperature
by moving around.
Permanently position a thermometer at the basking area and at the cold end to be able to
regularly monitor this temperature. Never assume the temperature on the thermostat is
accurate.
Vivarium Humidity 50 – 60%. Occasional misting will assist with maintaining this humidity, as
will the provision of a water bowl. Providing a humidity chamber (plastic box containing
damp sphagnum moss), bathing or misting the snake daily just before it sheds will help it to
shed successfully.
Furniture: Hide provisions in the vivarium are essential for these shy snakes. Rocks/plastic
plants for interest/climbing.
Substrate: The most hygienic and safe option is newspaper or paper towel. Other substrates
can be used such as beech chips or orchid bark but be aware there is a small risk of
accidental ingestion and gastrointestinal blockage. Feeding snakes in a separate container
will help to avoid accidental substrate ingestion.
Water: Fresh clean water should be available at all times, and changed daily. Provide in the
cooler end of the vivarium away from the heat mat to help keep the vivarium humidity
down. Often Royals like it to be big enough to climb in and bathe, so provide something that
will not tip over easily.
U.V. LIGHT PROVISION: Royal pythons are nocturnal and don't require UVB as they will get
their calcium from the bones in their food.
CLEANING & DISINFECTION:
Cleaning is not a replacement for disinfection. Many reptile bacteria can become opportunistic
pathogens i.e. cause disease and being in a closed environment a build of parasites can occur.
Disinfection is much more effective after thorough cleaning to remove dried organic debris. A
reputable disinfectant (such as F10) should then be used as per instructions. Spot clean every time a
motion is passed, with the vivarium fully cleaned and disinfected once a month.
DIET:
Royal pythons can be problematic feeders in captivity, when choosing your snake it is always best to
go for a good feeding captive bred python.
Royal Pythons feed on mice or rats appropriate to the size of their mouth but some specimens will
only take gerbils and day old chicks. If this is the case it is better to try and gradually introduce mice
and rats over time. Hatchlings start on fluffy mice, one every 5-6 days and graduate up to an adult
mouse every 7-10 days as they grow. Juvenile snakes should be fed every 7-10 days for the first 2-3
years. Feed adults every 2-3 weeks. Very large snakes may require 2 adult mice per feed or even the
introduction of larger prey items such as rats. Some snakes may be reluctant to feed, this may be
due to unsuitable environmental conditions, seasonal changes (males may not eat during the
breeding season; females will not eat while gravid or incubating eggs), stress (e.g. due to lack of a
hide box, bright lights), because it is about to shed, or to medical problems. Try warming the food
slightly before feeding, ‘braining’ the food by exposing brain tissue of the prey to improve smell or
offering brown rodents such as gerbils or chicks. If using a chip substrate feeding snakes in a
separate container will help to avoid accidental substrate ingestion.
Do not handle your snake for a couple of days after feeding as this can cause regurgitation.
No specific supplementation is required. The quality of the food offered will have an effect upon
the snakes nutrition so get from a reputable source. NEVER feed live prey, this is illegal in the UK and
is dangerous to your snake.
COMMON DISEASES:
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By far the most common problem seen in this species is not feeding and can be due to a
number of causes, see diet section above, especially stress.
Respiratory disease; noise whilst breathing, elevated head position, mucus from
mouth/nose, which can be fatal.
Shedding problems; especially over the eyes, important to ensure adequate
misting/hydration around times of shedding.
Mites; often black (snake mite) or dark red (lizard mite) in colour. These can be very
difficult to eradicate and there is a risk they can spread fatal untreatable viruses such as
Inclusion Boid Disease .
PREVENTATIVE CARE AND DISEASE MANAGEMENT:
Quarantine all new snakes for at least 6 months in order to reduce the chance of transmitting
diseases such as Inclusion Body Disease and Ophidian Paramyxovirus infection (two untreatable
and fatal viral diseases which pythons are susceptible to).
During this period record normal patterns of eating, defaecating, weight gain and behaviour for
each animal.
We recommend a faecal parasite screen is undertaken at the vets as a routine measure and for all
new additions. If your snake becomes unwell, for example any regurgitation, abnormal body
position, decreased appetite or abnormal respiration, we would advise you seek prompt veterinary
advice.