A Trip to the Pacific Coast
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On Tuesday May 4th 1897 my husband + myself with a special party left for an overland trip
from ocean to ocean. We left New Haven at 12 noon + arrived in New York City at 2 pm + were
guests of the Conductor’s club of North America at their rooms East 34th St. We left at 7 pm +
took the ferry to Hoboken NJ where the Pullman car “Shone” with bright lights + elaborate
decorations awaited us, we departed amid cheers + singing by the Glee Club, we went over the
Delaware, Lackawanna + Western RR to Buffalo where we arrived in time for breakfast at the
Mansion House we took trolley cars + got a glimpse of the city. We left at noon on the Lake
Shore + Michigan Southern for Cleveland O. for supper, we arrived in Chicago the 6th. We were
treated to a tally ho ride all over the city in the same Tally coaches as were used during the
World’s Fair. We rode through Jackson Park + saw the remnants of the grand Exhibition
buildings + where once the “Midway” was a blaze of glory nothing remained but a well kept + a
bicycle path. We visited the Stock Yards which cover an immense ground +d saw them kill the
earth, first they are led in by a trained steer + there a man is in waiting with a large sledge
hammer he strikes the animal in the head knocks it senseless + then a large slide is opened it is
hauled out, its legs chained + hung up and the butcher stabs it + the fresh warm blood flows out
then it is cut in two its carcass cleaned + skinned + all is done so quickly one can scarcely
believe the innocent dumb creature they looked at coming into
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Slaughter is the splendid beef they see in the large icehouse 5 minutes later ready to be shipped
to any part of the country. They slaughter on an average of 150 an hour or 1500 a day. We
visited the Wason’s Building 26 stories high + had a magnificent tour of the city of Chicago +
Lake Michigan. We left in the evening over the Atchinson Topeka + Santa Fe RR across the
Mississippi River to Kansas City, MO. + Topeka, Kan for dinner then through the state of
Kansas, a fertile country with its extensive fields + cattle grazing in its plains. We arrived at
Hutchinson Kan. for supper; we were given samples of the fine table salt taken out of the
immense salt rocks here. We had to stop over on account of a wreck 40 miles ahead caused by a
washout, we proceeded slowly after they had constructed a temporary track around the wreck. It
was a fearful sight nothing remained but a mass of tarnished iron + splintered wood. We arrived
in Colorado Sunday morning + at Trinidad, the little church bell was ringing + the people were
winding their way to worship + in fact everywhere we went our glad eyes were greeted by the
sight of the little church surmounted by a plain wooden cross no matter how barren the country
or how far the inhabitants that one little sentinel shone out like a beacon light + coming over the
immense prairie was the faithful priest on his way to say the mass + preach the word of God.
One would almost wonder looking at him mounted on his burro
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How a priest could isolate himself in such a forsaken country, but he has souls to save on the
lonely prairies even as our priests have in crowded cities + that is his aim as he rides over the
burning sands neath the scorching rays of the Western Sun. On, on we go + then commence our
ascent of the Rocky Mts none can imagine the grandeur of these huge giants and we are grim
help from 2 extra engines one before and one in the rear to help us over these barricades we
climb up slowly + surely each puff of black smoke tells of the labor of out iron horse + thru
curve + ravine we crawl along + go over the slopes like a huge snake then down we go + into the
valley beyond into New Mexico a vast country for miles + miles, nothing but sands + stubby
undergrowth here + there like dots in our dresses is houses made of mud or (adobe) as they are
called + all are equipped with cyclone cellars where the people take refuge when the fierce winds
sweep the prairies. Immense herd of cattle are seen + the cowboy corralling their horses - one
word in behalf of the cowboys – I have always been under false impression that as a rule
cowboys were a reckless, lawless set of rough uncultured men, but I was mistaken for all we saw
with few exceptions were gentlemanly fellows, well mannered + polite and such expert
horsemen, they would gallop along near our train + they presented a fine sight as they work like
the wind on their fine horses with their tanned faces neath huge sombreros + their spurs sparkling
in the sunlight – we saw bands
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Of Indians wrapped in their blankets + beaded moccasins on their feet + some had little wares to
sell, one feels a pity when they think of the glory the redskins once enjoyed but the pity almost
changes to hatred when we recall some awful tale of massacre in the days of our Pioneers. We
saw bands of Mexicans with their swarthy faces + bead like eyes they are a cowardly looking set
with no spark of kindness in any line of their features. I admire the Indians far more than the
Mexicans that is if there is any admiration for either. We had supper at Raton, NM. We stopped
at Winslow Arizona + had dinner in a Chinese restaurant the food + cooking was excellent. We
visited a modern Monte Carlo at Wallace NM where many foolish miners spend their last dollar
in a vain desire to enrich themselves. We crossed the Diabola Canyon we had a tiresome journey
through Arizona over it. Deserts, miles + miles as far as the eye could reach nothing but sand +
here + there the bones of man + beast, bleaching under the hot rays of the sun, not a drop of
water in sight. The alkali covering the ground like lime and the sagebrush growing + the cactus
blooming in all its glory and washing its sweetness in the desert air. We saw a sand storm the
wind caught up the sand + whirled into a cone shaped figure + when it cleared away all that was
left was a little mound.
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We were glad when we had crossed the hot Mojave Desert + the Needles Cal. We reached
Barstow for breakfast + then we commenced to enjoy the glories of California. We passed over
miles where they had commenced to irrigate + thousands of tiny trees were planted, we arrived at
San Bernardino + from there on we were treated to the beauties of God’s own country. The wild
flowers covered every available spot + some of them were beautiful enough to grace the finish
conservatories, there were immense groves of orange + lemon trees, almond, fig, apricot +
banana plants. It was a sight beautiful to behold + the fragrance was enjoyable, the palms grow
to a great height along the streets just as our elms + maples do at home. The roses climb +
clamber all over the houses + are loaded with flowers they bloom the whole year around the
geraniums grow + cover a large trellis. The Calla lilies grow in hedges along the drives + the
evergreen hedges are trimmed in artistic shapes + almost hide the little cottages from view.
Verbenas + small flowers grow almost wild along the streets + overhanging the curb are myrtle +
ivy + the sun always shines on California beautiful art thou, none can describe there neither
tongue nor few can portray thy beauties one must go + see + enjoy to believe its grandeur. I think
Passadena the prettiest place I ever saw. We arrived in Los Angeles (the city of angels) +
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Were met by the Catalina Band we went all over the beautiful city + visited San Gabriel Mission
built in the 1700s. We took a trip to Mount Lowe where the famous Lowe Observatory is located
we went up the incline railroad 3500 ft high + had dinner at the Echo Mt. House there we took a
ride to the summit. It is 5500 ft above sea level. We visited the Alpine Tavern built “a la
Shakespeare” + the logs were burning brightly in the old fashioned fireplace while outside the
snowflakes would appear now + then + the wind would moan sadly through the stately pines
while at the foot of this same mountain roses bloomed + berries ripened. We descended again to
Echo Mt House + awaited the sunset, it was beautiful beyond description. Then at dusk the
searchlight was lit, this is the largest searchlight in the world. It shone out 125 miles on the
Pacific + shone on the vessels sailing as if it were daylight. We left Los Angeles on the South
Pacific + got to Fresno for dinner we passed through 22 successive tunnels. We arrived in
Oakland at 530 pm + took the ferry to San Francisco, we visited the famous Cliff House + saw
the seal rocks where hundreds of seals live the year around. We visited Sutro Heights Park + the
Sutro Baths. Then we took a sail down the Bay and through Golden Gate, the entrance for all
vessels to Frisco the passed the ship “Australia” bound for Honolulu. We had a guide + the entire
party went on a
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“Trip to Chinatown” we visited the Jass House opium den restaurants, barbershop + in fact every
place of interest. It was amusing as we went along they would imagine themselves in far off
China, not a face greeted you but those yellow skinned pig tailed Chinese, there are 35000 in that
colony. We went up the road 71 miles + came to the Big Trees + in the hollowed trunk of the
Gen’l Fremont 22 of us sat down to lunch and on the trunk of one we formed 4 sets of the
Lancius one can imagine their greatness. We left Frisco + got to Sacramento at midnight then we
crossed the river on the large ferry boat in the world, we saw Mt Shasta in the distance with its
snow capped peak + we stopped at Mt Shasta springs where geysers spurted from the rocks 50 ft
high in the air. We arrived at Salem, Oregon + the Governor came to our car + we arrived in
Portland Oregon + went to the Portland Hotel, the finest in the Northwest, I could see Mt Hood
from my window. We had a sail down the Columbia River to Astoria, we saw the large fish
wheels which catch the salmon at Astoria. We saw the large carving factory where they can the
world famous Columbia River Salmon. We left Tacoma Wash. + we had a clam bake in Puget
Sound, we had a ride back to the city on freight cars fitted up with seats for our accommodation
it was enjoyable
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We saw the dead body of Jack Case the notorious train robber who was killed the day previous
while holding up a train, we all looked at him + I could not help but feel after all “he was
somebody’s boy” but of course he was a dangerous character. We left for Seattle, a bustling city
where immense shipping business is carried on + one old native informed us that with a serious
look that “Seetle’s” bound to be the New York of the Norwes’ if she keep on. I smiled as I
thought of the Metropolis far away. Then we went to Spokane + saw the famous Spokane Falls
they were grand indeed, we took the train + crossed to Idaho + came to Montana + here is a
likeness to the deserts on our southern trip miles of barren lands + the bad lands are huge mounds
of rocks + sand+ looks like the ruins of some ancient castles we passed the little town of Custer +
near Little Big Horn where Custer + his brave lads rode into the Valley of Death + Custer fought
his last battle. We arrived in Helena Mount for dinner + took the street car to the Hot Spring
Baths, the water dashed down with great force + the steam arose in volumes from its seething
waters, we got to Bismarck N. Dakota + had supper. We passed over miles of waste lands at
Jamestown I saw a prairie fire it lighted the sky with a fierce glare + by its light we could see the
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Cattle dashing wildly + the cowboys trying to keep them in advance of the heat + blaze. We got
back to Minneapolis next morning + saw the immense mill of Washburn Crosby + Co. We saw
Minehaha Falls + St. Anthony Falls. We arrived in St Paul + spent Decoration Day in their fine
city. We took the train + arrived in Chicago Sunday morning, we left over the Grand Trunk + got
to Detroit, Michigan. We passed into a tunnel 8 miles under the lake + built entirely of steel, we
got to the Suspension Bridge next morning + then we saw the wonderful Niagara Falls, I shall
never forget my first glimpse + my thoughts as I stood amazed at their wonderful grandeur and I
said “After all we have seen + admired we had to come back near out New England homes to see
the grandest sight of all (Niagara Falls) we went over the bridge to the Canadian side also we left
Buffalo at 11:50 P.M + came down the beautiful Genesee Valley we arrived in New York tired
but not footsore rather eager to get on “terra firma” + let Shanks mare do what the Steam Horse
had been doing for the past month, we left the Grand Central depot for home and as in we were
meaning the City of Elms, I heard the Brakeman shout next stop will be New Haven + I think
that I was happier at that moment than during
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my whole trip for I was nearing home + my little ones with their innocent faces were at the depot
waiting for Mama + Papa who had been “far away off”. Whereas we may be, no matter what
beauties we see, though it be ever so humble there is no place like home + when I was thousands
of miles away in that sunny land of California these thoughts flitted through my mind
As I sit neath the fair Southern skies
With the Pacific singing at my feet
The sun shines as bright in old New England’s hills
And the roses perfume is as sweet
Though we enjoy the beauties of foreign lands
Wherever we may wish to roam
But deep in our hearts there lingers a longing
For the dear ones + “Home Sweet Home”
“The End”
Louise B Gaffney-Flannigan
272 Portsea New Haven Ct