TUSCANY
Renowned for its art, history, and evocative landscape, Tuscany is a region where the
past and present merge in pleasant harmony. Hill-towns gaze across the countryside from
on high, many encircled by Etruscan walls and slender cypress trees. Handsome palaces
testify to the region’s wealth, and medieval town halls indicate a long-standing tradition
of democracy and self-government.
NORTHERN TUSCANY
Of all the regions of Tuscany, this one offers something for everyone. The historic towns
are rich in art, architecture and music festivals, while many sporting activities can be
enjoyed along the coast or in the mountains. A vast range of features, from marble
quarries to market gardens, and from mountain ranges and nature reserves to beaches,
too, marks the landscape.
Lucca - The beautiful town of Lucca is a favorite base for exploring. Northwards,
industrial suburbs give way to the olive groves, chestnut woods and bare mountains of
the Alpe Apuane and the Garfagnana region, a popular area for outdoor sports, from
trekking and canoeing to skiing.
Lucca became a colony of ancient Rome in 180 BC, and the town’s Roman legacy is still
evident in the regular grid pattern of its streets. The remarkable elliptical shape of the
Piazza del Mercato is a survival of the amphitheatre. The name of the church of San
Michele in Foro indicates that it stands beside the Roman forum, laid out as the city’s
main squyare in San Michele is just one of Lucca’s many churches built in the 12 th and
13th centuries in the elaborate Pisan-Romananesque style.
Massive red brick walls that help to give the city its special character by shutting out
traffic and the modern world enclose Lucca. Built in 1504 – 1645, the walls are among
the best-preserved Renaissance defenses in Europe. Within these walls, Lucca is a
peaceful city of narrow lanes, preserving intact its original ancient Roman street plan.
Unlike several of Tuscany’s hilltop cities, Lucca is flat: many locals use bicycles, which
lends the city added charm.
The “essential” Lucca:
Anfiteatro Romano - Almost none of the ancient Roman amphitheatre survives; the
stone was gradually stolen for use elsewhere, leaving the atmospheric arena-shaped
Piazza del Mercato of today. The piazza is enclosed by medieval house that were built
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up against the walls of the amphitheatre. Its shape, perfectly preserved, is a striking
reminder that the Romans founded Lucca around 180 BC. Low archways at north, south,
east and west mark the gates through which beasts and gladiators would once have
entered the arena.
Casa di Puccini - The 15th century house in which Giacomo Puccini (1858-1924)
was born contains portraits of the great composer, costumes designs for his operas and
the piano he used when composing his last opera, Turandot.
Ramparts - A promenade runs along the top of the city walls, guilt in 1504-1645.
Made into a public park in the early 19th century, with a double avenue of trees. It makes
a delightful walk with fine views of Lucca.
Lucca’s extraordinary cathedral, with its façade abutting
incongruously on to the campanile, is dedicated to St. Martin. He is the Roman soldier
depicted on the façade dividing his cloak with a sword to share with a needy beggar.
This and other scenes from the life of the saint form part of the complex decorations
covering the 13th century façade. The campanile was built in 1060 as a defensive tower.
The upper two tiers were added in 1261 when the tower was joined to the cathedral.
San Martino
Montecatini Terme - Of all Tuscany’s many spa towns, Montecatini Terme is the
most interesting. It has beautiful formal gardens and the architecture of its spas is
particularly distinguished. Tereme Leopoldine (1926), built in the style of a Classical
temple, is named after Grand Duke Leopoldo I, who first encouraged the development of
Montecatini Terme in the 18th century. The most splendid is the Neo-Classical Terme
Tettuccio (1925-1928) with its circular, marble-lined pools, fountains and Art Nouveau
tiles depicting languorous nymphs.
A popular excursion from Montecatini Terme is to take the funicular railways up to the
ancient fortified village of Montecatini Alto. In the quiet main piazza, there antique
shops and well-regarded restaurants with outdoor tables. From the Rocca (castle) you
can take in sweeping views over the mountainous countryside.
Barga – Barga is the most attractive of the towns that line the Serchio valley leading
northwards from Lucca, and it makes an excellent base for touring the Garfangana area.
The little walled town with its steep streets paved with stone is the setting for a highly
regarded opera festival held in July and August in the 18th century Teatro
dell’Accademia dei Differenti. The festival is always well attended.
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EASTERN TUSCANY
The ancient city of Arezzo and the hilltop town of Cortona, with its steep streets, narrow
ladder-like alleys and ancient houses, will amply satisfy visitors in search of culture, art
and architecture. The region will also appeal to those who love nature. The woodlands,
meadows and streams are ideal for exploring on foot. There are plenty of well-marked
paths and picnic areas to encourage you, especially within the beautiful ancient forests
surrounding the monasteries at Vallombrosa and Camaldoli
Arezzo – One of the wealthiest cities in Tuscany, Arezzo produces gold jewellery for
shops all over Europe. It is famous for Piero della Francesca’s frescoes and for its
antiques market. Following World War II, there was much rebuilding – broad avenues
have replaced many of the medieval alleys. The Chimera fountain near the station is a
reminder of the city’s past. It is a copy of an Etruscan bronze cast here in 380 BC.
Cortona – Cortona is one of the oldest cities in Tuscany. It was founded by the
Etruscans, whose work can still be seen in the foundations of the town’s massive stone
walls. The city was a major seat of power during the medieval period, able to hold its
own against larger towns like Siena and Arezzo; its decline followed defeat by Naples in
1409, after which its was sold to Florence and lost its autonomy. The main street, Via
Nazionale, is remarkably flat in comparison with the rest of Cortona. The numerous
ladder-like alleys leading off it, for instance, the Vicolo del Precipizio (Precipice Alley),
are far more typical.
CENTRAL TUSCANY
With Siena at its heart, this is an agricultural area of great scenic beauty, noted for its
historic wall towns. To the north of Siena is the Chianti Classico region, where some of
Italy’s best wines are produced; to the south is the Crete, with landscapes characterized
by round clay hillocks, eroded of topsoil by heavy rain over the centuries.
The history of the region is of a long feud between the two city-states of Florence and
Siena. Siena’s finest hour was its victory in the Battle of Montaperti in 1260, but when
Siena finally succumbed to the Black Death, and subsequently to a crushing defeat by
Florence in the siege of 1554-5, the city went into decline.
As several other Central Tuscan cities experienced the same fate, this lovely region
became a forgotten backwater, frozen in time. But after centuries of neglect, the graceful
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late medieval buildings in many of the towns are now being well restored, making this
the most architecturally rewarding part of Tuscany to explore.
Siena -
Siena is a city of steep medieval alleys surrounding the Piazza del Campo.
The buildings around the square symbolize the golden age of the city between 1260 and
1348, when wealthy citizens contributed to a major program of civic building. Siena’s
decline began in 1348 when the Black Death hit the city, killing a third of the population;
200 years later many more died in an 18-month siege ending in defeat by the Florentines.
The victors repressed all further development and building in Siena, which remained
frozen in time, crammed with medieval buildings, which have recently been renovated.
The principal sights of Siena are found in the network of narrow streets and alleys around
the fan-shaped Piazza del Campo. Scarcely any street is level, as Siena, like Rome, is
build on seven hills. This adds to the pleasure of exploring: one minute the city is laid
out to view before you and the next you are in a warren of medieval houses.
The “essential” Siena:
Piazza del Campo - The shell-shapped 12th-century Piazza del Campo is borded by
elegant palazzi. It has an elaborate fountain as its focal point, the Fonte Gaia, a
rectangular marble basin decorated by statues. The fountain now seen in the square is a
19th century copy of the original. The original was removed to preserve it from the
ravages of the weather. The reliefs on the fountain depict Adam and Eve, the Madonna
and Child, and the Virtues. Water is fed into it by a 25-km (15 mile) aqueduct, which has
brought fresh water into the city from the hills since the 14th century.
Torre del Mangia - The belltower to the left of the Palazzo Pubblico is the second
highest in Italy, at 102 m (330 ft). Built by two brothers in 1338-48 is named after the
first bell ringer. It was the bell ringer’s responsibility to tool the nightly curfew and warn
the citizens of impending danger. There are 505 steps to the top of the tower, which has
views across Tuscany.
Palazzo Pubblico - The Palazzo Pubblico still serves as the town hall, but the
medieval state rooms are open to the public. The main council chamber is called the Sala
del Mappamondo, named after a map of the world painted by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the
early 14th century.
Siena Duomo - Siena’s Duomo (1136 – 1382) is one of the most spectacular in Italy,
and one of the few to have been built south of the Alps in full Gothic style. Many
ordinary citizens helped to cart the black and white stone used in its construction from
quarries on the outskirts of the city. In 1339, the Sienese decided to build a new nave to
the south with the aim of making it the biggest church in Christendom. This plan came to
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nothing when plague hit the city soon afterwards, killing off much of the population. The
uncompleted nave now contains a museum of Gothic sculpture.
The Palio - The Palio is Tuscany’s most celebrated festival and takes place on July 2
and August 16 each year in the Piazza del Campo. It is a bareback horse race and was
first recorded in 1283, but may have had its origins in Roman military training. The
jockeys represent the 17 contrade or districts; the horses are chosen by the drawing of
straws and are then blessed at the local contrada churches. The races are preceded by
heavy betting and pageantry, but only last about 90 seconds each. The winner is awarded
a palio (banner).
San Gimignano –
The distinctive skyline of San Gimignano must have been a
welcome sight to the faithful in medieval times, for the town to lay on the main pilgrim
route from northern Europe to Rome. This gave rise to its great prosperity at that time,
when its population was twice what it is today. The plague of 1348, and later the
diversion of the pilgrim route, led to its economic decline. However, since World War II
it has been recovering rapidly thanks, to tourism and local wine production. For a small
town, San Gimignano is rich in works of art, and good shops and restaurants.
The “essential” San Gimignano:
Palazzo Vecchio del Podesta - The Palazzo Vecchio de Podesta (the old mayor’s
palace) is in a group of public buildings clustered around the central Piazza del Duomo. It
has a vaulted loggia and the 51 meter (160 ft) Torre della Rognosa, one of the oldest
towers in San Gimignano. A law was passed in 1255 forbidding any citizen to build a
higher tower, but the rule was often broken by rival families.
Museo Civico - The Museo is on the south side of the Piazza del Duomo, in the
Palazzo del Popolo (touwn hall). Its tower, finished in 1311, is the tallest in the city, at
54 m ( 175 ft). This is open to the public and the views from the top are quite stunning.
Warn frescoes in the courtyard feature the coats of arms of city mayors and magistrates,
as well as a 14th-century Virgin and Child by Taddeo di Bartolo. The first public room is
the Sala di Dante, where inscription records the poet’s plea to the city cound89l in 1300
to suppor ………….
Pisa – For much of the middle ages, Pisa’s powerful navy ensured its dominance of the
western Mediterranean. Trading links with Spain and North Africa in the 12th century
brought vast mercantile wealth and formed the basis of a scientific and cultural revolution
that is still reflected in Pisa’s splendid buildings – especially the Duomo, baptistery, and
campaniele (Leaning Tower). Pisa’s decline began in 1284, with its defeat to Genoa, and
was hastened by the silting up of the harbor. The city fell to the Florentines in 1406, but
suffered its worst crisis in 1944 when it fell victim to Allied bombing.
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SOUTHERN TUSCANY
Away from the coastal resorts, this region remains relatively undiscovered; quiet roads
and a lack of tourists only add to the pleasure of exploring rock-cut tombs in Sovana,
bathing in hot sulphurous springs at Saturnia or wandering through the Maremma
spotting the wildlife.
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