Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Special Issue
on
Environmental Issues: Technology Options for Textile Industry
VOLUME 26
NUMBERS 1 & 2
MARCH-JUNE 2001
CONTENTS
Foreword
9
Indian textile industry — Environmental issues
R B Chavan
11
Eco-regulations with respective Indian scene
Ram Asrey Lal
22
Environmental management systems for the textile industry : A case study
Mangala Joshi
33
Environmental and health hazards in spinning industry and their control
C D Kane
39
Noise pollution and its control in textile industry
M K Talukdar
44
Non-ecofriendly textile chemicals and their probable substitutes — An
overview
V A Shenai
50
Azo ban, eco-norms and testing
G S Nadiger
55
Ecofriendly textile production
H T Deo
61
Chemical processing on small scale — Entrepreneur’s viewpoint
Anil Kumar Mehra
74
Developments in grey preparatory processes of cotton textile materials
J Venkata Rao
78
Environment-friendly dyeing processes for cotton
R B Chavan
93
Ecofriendly processing of sulphur and vat dyes — An overview
M D Teli, Roshan Paul, Sachin M Landage & Arnab Aich
101
Cationization of cotton for low-salt or salt-free dyeing
D P Chattopadhyay
108
Environment-friendly processing of protein fibres
S R Shukla
116
Chemical processing of synthetics and blends — Impact on environment and
solutions
R S Gandhi
125
Ecofriendly dyeing of synthetic fibres
S D Deshpande
136
Developments in acrylic-based thickeners as substitute of emulsion thickeners
for pigment printing
M Jassal & P Bajaj
143
Inkjet printing — A revolutionary ecofriendly technique for textile printing
Sanjay Gupta
156
Ecofriendly finishes for textiles
P Bajaj
162
Developments in textile machinery for ecofriendly chemical processing
M D Dixit
187
Present status of natural dyes
M L Gulrajani
191
Enzymes in textile industry — An environment-friendly approach
Rashesh Doshi & Vinod Shelke
202
Biotechnology applications in textile industry
Deepti Gupta
206
Development of textile products for protection and enhancement of
environment
P K Banerjee
214
Recycling of textile waste for environment protection — An overview of some
practical cases in the textile industry
A D Sule & M K Bardhan
223
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 11-21
Indian textile industry—Environmental issues
R B Chavana
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz Khas, New Delhi 110 016, India
Indian textile industry occupies a unique position in the Indian economy. Over the period, it has gone through several
changes. In the present paper, an attempt has been made to present an overview of Indian textile industry in terms of its structure,
associated problems, its impact on environment, pollution control strategies, German ban on azo dyes, response of textile
ministry to cope with the implementation of German ban, and other environmental issues.
Keywords: Azo dyes, Eco label, Eco norm, German ban, Pollution control strategies
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 22-32
Eco-regulations with respective Indian scene
Ram Asrey Lala
Office of the Textile Commissioner , Ministry of Textiles, New C.G.O. Building, 48 New Marine Lines, Mumbai 400 020, India
As any other industrial activity, the textile industry is also responsible for environmental pollution during the manufacturing
of textiles from fibres to finished products. It may not be possible to totally prevent the environmental pollution during
manufacturing, but attempts could be made to minimize it to the possible extent. Some of the tools available to control
environmental pollution are legislation, waste minimization, adoption of cleaner technologies and appropriate end-of-pipe
treatment. In the present paper, the environment-related regulations in the national context are critically reviewed.
Keywords: Clean technology, Eco-regulations, End-of-pipe treatment, Legislation, Pollution abatement, Waste minimization
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 33-38
Environmental management systems for the textile industry : A case study
Mangala Joshia
Department of Textile Technology Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz Khas, New Delhi 110 016, India
Increasing Environmental responsibilities on part of the management to comply with environment protection and pollution
control legislations and escalating environmental compliance and remediation costs, has created a need for effective
Environmental Management System (EMS).The focus of EMS is to conserve input resources and to protect the environment.
This paper describes the ISO 14000 series as an effective tool for environment management systems applied to textile industries.
A case study based on actual implementation of ISO 14001 in an upcoming textile unit based in North India has been illustrated.
Keywords: Eco-labelling, Environmental management system, ISO 14001, Waste management
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 39-43
Environmental and health hazards in spinning industry and their control
C D Kanea
Textile & Engineering Institute, Rajwada, Ichalkaranji 416 115, India
Various aspects of environmental and health hazards in cotton spinning industries have been discussed and the measures to
reduce the risk of health hazards, to a great extent, in cotton textile mills are suggested.
Keywords: Byssinosis, Cotton, Environmental hazard, Health hazard, Noise, Spinning
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 44-49
Noise pollution and its control in textile industry
M K Talukdara
Kusumgar Corporates, Mumbai 400 056, India
High noise level causes psychological effects and physical damage, including irritability, loss of concentration, anxiety and
increased pulse rate. A one minute exposure to a sound level over 100dBA can cause permanent hearing loss. The studies show
that a large number of textile workers, especially weavers, suffer from occupational hearing loss. The machinery manufacturers
made considerable efforts in keeping the noise emission as low as possible while improving the speed of their machines, but the
measures are not adequate to protect the textile workers from occupational hearing loss.
Keywords: A-weighted scale, Active noise control, Air-jet weaving machine, Projectile weaving machine, Rapier weaving
machine, Water-jet weaving machine
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 50-54
Non-ecofriendly textile chemicals and their probable
substitutes—An overview
V A Shenaia
13 Sunder Mansion, 91 Govandi Road, Chembur, Mumbai 400 071, India
Textile auxiliaries/chemicals/speciality chemicals are scanned for their ecofriendliness or otherwise. Polyester dyeing
carriers are taken as an example to illustrate this point. Observations of a German working group on this aspect of carriers are
quoted. Important non-ecofriendly chemicals are cited based on the requirements of Eco-Tex Consortium of Europe. Probable
substitutes for the existing non-ecofriendly chemicals are suggested. A method to examine the claims of textile auxiliary
manufacturers about ecofriendliness of their products is suggested for the benefit of users. A German example of combating the
ecological problem is given for the possible implementation by Indian manufacturers.
Keywords: Carcinogenicity, Dyeing carriers, Ecology, Sensitizers, Textile auxiliaries
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 55-60
Azo ban, eco-norms and testing
G S Nadigera
Textiles Committee, 79 Crystal, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai 400 018, India
Ecological aspects including azo ban enforced by Germany, Holland, Turkey, France and India; ban on certain chemicals
employed in textile processing under eco-norms and containing with the pollution control; different eco-labelling schemes, like
Okotex 100, MST, Clean Fashion, Steillmann and Indian Eco-label; and procedures currently employed to test the eco
characteristics are discussed.
Keywords: Azo ban, Azo dyes, Arylamines, Eco-label, Eco-norms, Ecofriendly textiles
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 61-73
Ecofriendly textile production
H T Deoa
18 Safalya, 19-20 Nath Pai Nagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400 077, India
It is no longer adequate to have a finished product to be safe only to human beings, but the product has to be environmentally
safe during its entire life cycle and even beyond. This paper discusses the aspects of ecofriendly textile production in terms of
use of ecofriendly chemicals, generation of lighter pollution load, effluent and gases, and drastic reduction in the use of resources
like water, oxygen, land, energy, manpower, etc. Futuristic eco-scenarios, leading to the total eco-revolution philosophy, have
also been discussed.
Keywords: Eco-revolution, Waste water treatment, Green textiles, Natural dyes
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp.74-77
Chemical processing on small scale—Entrepreneur’s viewpoint
Anil Kumar Mehraa
Chamundi Prints, B 21, Sector 3, Noida 201 301, India
The viewpoint of a small-scale entrepreneur for achieving environment-friendly chemical processing of cotton is discussed
briefly. It is emphasized that setting up of a laboratory, computer colour matching system, careful study of the literature on
products introduced by dyestuff and auxiliary manufacturers and the selective product use help in achieving the right-first-time
production, which, in turn, helps in waste minimization and thus in environment protection and value realization. The viewpoint
is illustrated with the help of typical practical examples of the use of sequestering agents, non-silicate based peroxide stabilizers,
peroxide killer enzyme and effective reactive dye washing after fixation. It is suggested that the investment in research and
development would help the small-scale entrepreneurs in achieving the desired goals of environment protection and value
realization.
Keywords : Cotton, Ecofriendly chemical processing
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 78-92
Developments in grey preparatory processes of cotton textile materials
J Venkata Raoa
Department of Textile Technology, Anna University, Chennai 600 025, India
Among all the chemical processes of textile materials, the grey preparatory process has been the most neglected area for
research till mid sixties. The escalating energy and labour costs, stringent pollution control regulations, scarcity of water and
greater demand for quality textiles have compelled the textile chemists to consider the preparatory processes more seriously. The
R&D work carried out over the last four decades to overcome these problems in desizing, scouring and bleaching of cotton is
reported. The developments that have taken place in the designing of preparatory processing machinery, including singeing, are
also reported.
Keywords: Bleaching, Cotton, Desizing, Scouring
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol 26, March-June 2001, pp. 93-100
Environment-friendly dyeing processes for cotton
R B Chavana
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz Khas, New Delhi 110 016, India
Environment-friendly dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes has been critically reviewed. Major developments are in terms of
innovations in dyes and dyeing processes for high dye bath exhaustion and fixation with a view to reduce the total quantity of
colour in the effluent. The use of bifunctional reactive dyes having high exhaustion and fixation properties, use of low-salt
reactive dyes, machinery developments for dyeing at low liquor ratio, pad troughs with reduced volumes, replacement of urea
with dicyandiamide, econtrol process, etc are some of the approaches for ecofriendly colouration of cotton with reactive dyes.
The uses of environment-friendly reducing systems for dyeing of cotton with vat and sulphur dyes are also briefly discussed.
Keywords: Bifunctional reactive dye, Cotton, Sulpur dye, Vat dye, Waste minimization
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 101-107
Ecofriendly processing of sulphur and vat dyes—An overview
M D Telia, Roshan Paul, Sachin M Landage & Arnab Aich
Division of Technology of Fibres and Textile Processing, Department of Chemical Technology,
University of Mumbai, Matunga, Mumbai 400 019, India
Various developments that have taken place in the ecofriendly dyeing of sulphur and vat dyes have been briefly discussed.
A good degree of progress in this direction has been made by the successful use of products like hydrol in sulphur dyeing and
zinc sulphoxylate formaldehyde in vat dyeing. However, the efforts to improve the dyeing technology of sulphur and vat dyes on
cotton are still required.
Keywords: Cotton, Dyeing, Ecofriendly processing, Sulphur dye, Vat dye
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 108-115
Cationization of cotton for low-salt or salt-free dyeing
D P Chattopadhyaya
Department of Textile Chemistry, The Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, Bhiwani 127 021, India
Cotton acquires negative charge in aqueous medium and thus repels negatively charged dye anion during dyeing. Such
repulsion between fibre and dye is offset by using large quantity of salt in dye bath, particularly for reactive dyes. A low dye bath
exhaustion also leads to low dye fixation of reactive dyes on cotton. Thus, the use of high salt concentration and low reactive dye
fixation lead to environmental problems related to highly coloured effluent with high salt content. These problems can be
overcome by improving the dye substantivity of cotton in the absence of salt or with low salt additions. One such approach is
cationization of cotton which is critically reviewed in the present paper. Majority of the chemicals used for introducing cationic
sites in cotton are themselves not safe environmentally. Therefore, there is a need to explore the potentiality of the cationization
route using ecofriendly chemicals. The use of chitosan, a polymer derived from chitin, is a step forward in this direction.
Keywords: Cationization, Cotton, Dyeing, Reactive dyes
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol.26, March-June 2001, pp.116-124
Environment-friendly processing of protein fibres
S R Shuklaa
Division of Technology of Fibres and Textile Processing, Department of Chemical Technology,
University of Mumbai, Matunga, Mumbai 400 019, India
The various practical and theoretical approaches adopted during the last decade towards the environment-friendly chemical
processing of wool and silk are highlighted. The ways and means are available at the disposal of a chemical processor to evolve
an ecofriendly wool/silk product, even with desired value addition. However, certain processes like ultrasound and plasma
treatment need to be explored at the bulk processing level.
Keywords: Ecofriendly processing, Protein fibre , Silk, Wool
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 125-135
Chemical processing of synthetics and blends  Impact on environment
and solutions
R S Gandhia
Ishavasya, 4 Anand Nagar Society, Sagrampura, Surat 395 002, India
Chemical processing of synthetic textiles and blends generates significant air/water pollution. Through judicious selection
and optimum usage of inputs (energy, water and substances) in processing, it is possible to minimize waste/pollution
substantially. This will reduce the pollution load of an effluent to such a level at which it would be feasible to effectively operate
the effluent treatment plant (ETP) and satisfy the norms of Pollution Control Boards (PCBs). Judicious selection of inputs will
also take care of ecofriendliness of finished textiles to meet the eco-label requirement and tackle environmental problems. Waste
minimization is achieved by pre-care and care during processing. Unavoidable minimum waste generated is then treated in
after-care step to remove colour, toxicity and heavy metal ions to reduce the levels of total dissolved solids (TDS), COD/BOD,
etc by primary/secondary/tertiary treatments before recycling the treated water. Sludge (solid waste) is disposed off by either
land-filling or incineration depending on the extent of toxicity. The solutions offered aim at decreasing the hazardous character
of sludge by eliminating the use of banned, red-listed chemicals/dyestuffs which have carcinogenic, allergenic and toxic
characteristics.
Keywords: Environment protection, Pollution control, Waste minimization
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol 26, March-June 2001, pp. 136-142
Ecofriendly dyeing of synthetic fibres
S D Deshpandea
Sasmira’s Institute of Man-made Textiles, Mumbai 400 025, India
Synthetic fibres, including polyester, nylon and acrylic fibres, account for nearly 46% of the total world-wide fibre
consumption. Ecological consideration led to the significant developments in fibre production and their colouration techniques.
Several new dyes and chemicals have been introduced to reduce the pollution load in the effluent. Recent developments in ironbased dyes and use of vinylsulphone dyes for nylon are reviewed.
Keywords : Acrylic, Banned dyes, Dyeing, Ecofriendly dyeing, Iron-based dyes, Nylon, Polyester, Vinylsulphone dyes
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 143-155
Developments in acrylic - based thickeners as substitute of emulsion thickeners
for pigment printing
M Jassala & P Bajaj
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz Khas, New Delhi 110 016, India
Pigment printing is confronted with growing demands, which, in turn, pose both environmental and technological
challenges to the system. This paper presents a comprehensive review of developments in synthetic thickeners as substitute of
emulsion thickeners for pigment printing.
Keywords: Acrylic thickener, Emulsion thickener, Kerosene emulsion, Pigment printing, Synthetic thickener
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 156-161
Inkjet printing—A revolutionary ecofriendly technique for textile printing
Sanjay Guptaa
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hauz Khas, New Delhi 110 016, India
Some of the aspects of inkjet or digital printing, such as comparison between conventional and digital printing, digital
printing systems, suitable inks based on dyes and pigments, colour management software, application and future scope of digital
printing, are briefly discussed in view of the demand-activated manufacturing architect to satisfy the changing fashion trends and
new market requirements.
Keywords: Inkjet printing, Rotary screen printing, Textile printing
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 162-186
Ecofriendly finishes for textiles
P Bajaja
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi 110 016, India
The challenges facing the textile finishing industry have intensified during the last decade. Current awareness of the
negative environmental impact of chemical processing of textiles, combined with increased strict legislation on industrial
effluents, has led to the search for advanced, non-polluting processes for treating natural and manufactured fibre fabrics. In this
paper, an overview of ecofriendly finishing treatments, which include formaldehyde- free finishes, enzymatic softening, use of
silicones, low-temperature plasma and antimicrobial /antibacterial finishes, has been given. Application of breathable coatings
has also been demonstrated.
Keywords: Antibacterial finishing , Enzymatic softening, Glyoxal, Moisture vapour permeable coatings, Plasma treatment,
Polycarboxylic acids, Silicones
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 187-190
Developments in textile machinery for ecofriendly chemical processing
M D Dixita
2, Shri Siddhi-Vinayak Co-operative Housing Society, Swatantrya Veer Savarkar Marg, Prabhadevi, Mumbai 400 028, India
Textile machinery play an important role in indirectly controlling the pollution load for environment protection. Energy
saving, reduced liquor-to-material ratio, counter current liquor flow for washing and use of microprocessor controls are some of
the features incorporated in the present generation machines. These features help in reducing the generation of flue gases in
boiler, allow to use reduced quantities of chemicals, produce reduced volumes of effluents and give better performance of
machinery, resulting in reduced re-processing. Some of the developments in textile machinery covering these aspects are briefly
highlighted.
Keywords : Ecofriendly chemical processing, Textile machinery
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 191-201
Present status of natural dyes
M L Gulrajania
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi 110 016, India
The present status of natural dyes with reference to the stake holders of natural dyes, estimates of dye requirements,
availability of natural dyes, technology for production, and some important natural dyes and mordants is critically discussed.
Application techniques and fastness properties of natural dyes are also briefly discussed. It is suggested that the natural dyes are
not substitutes of synthetic dyes. Some of the limitations of natural dyes such as use of banned metal salts as mordants, poor
fastness properties and use of agricultural land for growing natural dye plants can be overcome through research and
development.
Keywords: Environment protection, Mordants, Natural dyes
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26 March-June 2001, pp. 202-205
Enzymes in textile industryAn environment-friendly approach
Rashesh Doshia & Vinod Shelke
Zytex (India) Pvt Ltd , Mumbai 400 012, India
Environment–friendly uses of various enzymes in different textile processing steps have been discussed. It is observed that
enzymes can replace harsh chemicals, catalyze reaction and operate under mild conditions. These are safe to use, easy to control
and biodegradable.
Keywords: Bio-polishing, Bio-preparation, Cotton, Enzyme, Hydrolases, Wool
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 206-213
Biotechnology applications in textile industry
Deepti Guptaa
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz Khas, New Delhi 110 016, India
The applications of biotechnology to textiles are discussed with reference to improvements in natural fibres, novel new
biodegradable fibres and polymers, biofabrics, intermediates and dyes from micro-organisms, and treatment of textile waste
water. Majority of the techniques are not yet commercialized. However, wherever a clear economic justification and market for a
particular product or process exists, progress has been rapid. It is thus expected that in future, many of the biotechnological
processes would help in solving the environmental problems posed by textile industry.
Keywords: Biodegradable fibre, Biofabric, Biotechnology, Dye, Natural fibres
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp. 214-222
Development of textile products for protection and enhancement of
environment
P K Banerjeea
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz Khas, New Delhi 110 016, India
Pre-seeded erosion control blanket, Coirsorb and Brecodrain, aimed respectively at arresting erosion, enhancing moisture
retention capacity of soil and recovering useful land from marshy areas, have been developed from ecofriendly and
biodegradable jute and coir fibres. The production processes of these three materials and their relevant properties have been
discussed briefly and the scope of their application highlighted.
Keywords: Brecodrain, Coir, Coirsorb, Jute, Prefabricated vertical drain, Pre-seeded erosion control blanket, Superabsorbent
mat
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, March-June 2001, pp 223-232
Recycling of textile waste for environment protection — An overview
of some practical cases in the textile industry
A D Sulea & M K Bardhan
Synthetic and Art Silk Mills’ Research Association, Worli, Mumbai 400 025, India
Environment protection could be achieved by adopting state-of-the-art technologies to minimize waste generation, effective
treatment of effluent so that the effluent discharge conforms to the expected norms, and recycling the waste several times before
discharge. The present paper, with the help of typical case studies, such as wool scour liquor disposal, utilization of leftover
yarn in spinning and weaving departments, recycling of size, conservation of heat and water in disperse dyeing, recovery and
utilization of salt in reactive dyeing, recycling of rags and used garments, and recycling of water in chemical processing,
illustrates that the effective way for environment protection is to recycle waste as many times as may be practically feasible.
However, the recycling methodology adopted must be economical.
Keywords: Environment protection, Textile waste, Waste recycling