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Exmoor
THE RIVER EXE
This great river, which gave Exmoor its name, rises at Exe Head east of the Chains. It flows
east across the former Exmoor forest to Exford where it turns south-east to join the Quarme
and then south to the Devon county boundary and on to the sea. From its small beginnings on
the high moors to the great estuary between the old port of Topsham and Dawlish Warren the
river travels 55 miles.
It gave its name not only to Exmoor and Exford but also to Exton, Somerset, and Exebridge in
Brushford, Up Exe, Nether Exe, Exwick, Exeter, Exminster, Exwell, Exton, Devon, and
Exmouth.
It has many important tributaries, not only the Quarme, which enters it near Exton, but also
the Haddeo, which joins it opposite Pixton Park. The Haddeo has been now dammed a few
miles upstream to create Wimbleball Lake reservoir. About a mile south of Pixton Park, at a
place known as Blackpool, a favourite spot for fishermen, the river Barle joins the Exe. The
greatly enlarged river leaves Exmoor under Exebridge. Further South the river receives the
waters of the Batherm south of Bampton, the Lowman at Tiverton, the Culm at Stoke Canon,
and the Creedy, from Crediton, near Exeter.
The river drove water mills and supplied water for local people and animals. At Exford, where
the ford has long been replaced by a bridge, the Sparcombe, Allcombe, Greenland and
Edgecott waters join the river. Further south-west Lyncombe packhorse bridge formerly
linked with an abandoned track over Staddon Hill. It dates from the 17th or 18th centuries but
may be on the site of an earlier bridge. It is a fine example of a single span, humpbacked
Exmoor bridge. It does not seem to have been altered during the last two hundred years
presumably because it is no longer on a through route.
At Winsford a medieval two-arched packhorse bridge crosses the river. It was badly damaged
in the 1952 flood but has been restored. Edbrooke, below Winsford, is the site of another
ancient packhorse bridge on a former route from the Quarme valley up to Winsford Hill. It
was rebuilt in the 18th century and carried the road to Winsford until the new turnpike road
was made in 1824.
At Exton the hamlet of Bridgetown takes its name from the river crossings. There are two
bridges both made of reinforced concrete to the designs of Edward Stead, County Surveyor of
Somerset. Coppleham bridge was built in 1926 and Week Bridge in 1927. The latter has a
single arch and a 28-foot span. Below Bridgetown the river forms the eastern boundary of the
southern Exmoor study area and runs though a narrow winding valley with steep, wellwooded sides. The road from Brompton Regis crosses the Exe at Chilly Bridge. This dates
from the 17th or 18th century and was restored in the late 19th century. It is a single arch,
humpbacked bridge. Below Chilly Bridge the Exe passes the site of Barlynch priory.
The valley then opens out slightly as it approaches Hele Bridge, another ancient crossing
carrying the old route from Bridgwater into Dulverton on its way to Barnstaple. Hele Bridge
is of medieval origin, repaired in 1628 and 1866, and widened on the south side in 1892 by G
B Fisher for Somerset County Council. It has a three arch span; four-centred on the north side
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with pointed cutwaters, and semi-circular headed on the south. The parapet has recesses
similar to those on medieval packhorse bridges.
Near Hele Bridge a long leat runs along the side of Pixton Hill. This formerly drove a
waterwheel, which powered the Pixton estate sawmills. At Blackpool the Barle flows into the
Exe and the enlarged river rushes under the Exe Bridge at Exebridge. There was formerly a
large trout hatchery business beside the river just above the bridge. The village of Exebridge
lies either side of the river in Somerset and Devon and was recorded in 1327. On the Somerset
side lay the mill and the post office and there were formerly smithies, wheelwrights, and inns
on both sides of the river. The Exe Bridge was rebuilt in the 18th century and altered in 1853
and 1929. The parapets were extended in the late 20th century. The span consists of three
semi-circular headed arches.
Once into Devon the river is once more confined in a narrow valley, which twists and turns
before broadening out as it enters Tiverton. Here the river formerly powered many woollen
mills no doubt utilising much Exmoor wool. In 1816 one mill was taken over for a lace
manufactury producing bobbin net lace. Several royal wedding veils have been made of
Tiverton lace. The old mill has been rebuilt and the industry no longer depends on waterpower.
In the Middle Ages the river was navigable at least as far as Exeter but the building of
Countess Weir moved trade downriver to Topsham from whose quays large quantities of
woollen cloth were exported. Despite the building of the Exeter Canal in 1563, Topsham
remained the chief port on the Exe and its beautiful Dutch-gabled houses were built through
wealth acquired in exporting Devon serge, much of it containing wool from southern Exmoor.
The Exe here occupies a broad and marshy valley and the river widens out as it passes below
Powderham castle into the estuarial waters, which lie between Dawlish Warren and Exmouth.
After its journey of 55 miles the Exe finally meets the sea.
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