St Andrews Cross – Plans

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St Andrews Cross – Plans
Materials List
Timber
3 ½” x 1 ½” x 8’
4’ x 4’ x ¾”
3 off
1 off
Hardware
Carriage Bolt 5” x ½” 1 off
Washer ½”
1 off
Nut ½”
1 off
Eye Bolt 3/8” x 5”
Flat washer 3/8”
Loose Pin Hinge 3”
Paint
Grey Primer
Black Gloss Enamel
8 off
8 off
3 off
196563
63307
196341
Method
Firstly the 2 uprights need to be
aiming for a 3’ spread but my
angle, so using this I actually got
mitered together, originally I was
miter block gave me a 22 ½ o cut
just over a 3’ spread.
The easiest way to do this is to
wood to the center line then
leave the waste slightly high you
for a perfect fit. When fitted
the carriage bolt (seen here).
saw another 3 cuts through the
chisel out the waste wood, if you
can sand or plane out the miters
together drill the center hole for
Next lay a straight edge corner to
uprights and mark a straight line
uprights
(seen here bottom left corner of
to measure the correct angle (I
long straight edge).
corner of the lower half of the 2
to saw the lower edges of the 2
Next drill the holes for the top eye
½” (to allow for
washers) and
the legs the first
other 2 are a
The ‘eye’ part
draw nicely into
prevent the bolt
line when the
bolts, these are ¾” to a depth of
the nuts and
then 3/8” through
one is at 2” then the
further 6” apart.
of the eyebolt will
the wood and
from turning out of
nuts are tightened.
picture). This is easier than trying
used the 3rd piece of wood as a
The lower eye bolts are 4” on the
inside legs from the base.
You will need to cut a square hole
the cross to allow the head of the
the method I used was to tighten
wood and gave me the pattern to
need to cut is only about ¼” as the
requires. Once cut assemble the
bolt. (this will keep the cross
on the front side of the center of
carriage bolt to recess correctly,
the bolt slightly, this marked the
cut to using a chisel, the depth you
bolt will form exactly the hole it
basic cross and tighten the center
rigid).
You will now need to cut the rear support strut. The foot angle is 60o and top is 30o, the outside length is
then 4’ 7 1/8” and the inside length is 3’ 11 7/8”, this gives a near vertical Cross, however if you want
the cross to lean back then adjust these dimensions.
Next remove the pins from 2 of the
as they are very tight) and screw
of the 2 uprights. Mark a line 30”
hinges (I had to use ‘Mole Grips’
one half of the hinge to the bottom
from the rear edge of the base
plate, the other half of the hinge
Do the same for the rear support
be chiseled out slightly to allow for
done offer up the Cross and refit
for the rear support strut. These
nicely.
A ½” hole will need to be drilled
4” from the top of the support
tap the carriage bolt through to
drilled you will need to recess the
large washer and nut (I simply
chiseled it out).
will be screwed to the base plate.
bracket. The base plate will need to
the hinges to lay flat. When this is
the hinge pins loosely, do the same
should now touch each other
through this support strut (approx
strut, however you may want to
mark the exact position), once
rear of the strut to allow for the
drew round the washer and
Reassemble the entire unit when
completed, you will have noticed
that the hinge pins will not be able
to be fully reinserted, you will
have to file a flat across the head of each pin so that they lay flat on the baseboard.
I gave the uprights and the support 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of Black Enamel gloss, the base board
required 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of gloss. Total Cost around $50.
Copyright 2005 R J ROOK ( [email protected] )
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