NEW! “Stakes and Professions in Perfumery” A limited Edition (2007 Publication) under the direction of François Berthoud (former CEO of Givaudan France) All the professionals agree that the perfumery has undergone a significant and decisive change in the past years: globalization, reduction of the number of key players on the market, changing distribution, numerous launches, legal constraints and incredible technical changes... “Stakes and Professions in Perfumery” is a writers’ understanding of the Fragrance industry today - and in the future. The chairman of “Le Comité Français du Parfum”, collective, which is a major contribution for a better Gérard Delcour, kindly wrote the introduction and Michael Edwards delivered a very interesting foreword. The first and second sections written by about thirty key players in the industry give a global overview of the main markets in the world and the stakes for the years to come. Sometimes, their analysis is tough, without concessions, underlying the contradictions and difficulties, but also talking about openings and growth on the markets. It was essential that they should say what they felt in their own words and in their own style. This is probably what makes the work so rich. The third section is made up of about fifty interviews which were carried out in the months preceding the publication. Interviews were spontaneous with professionals all active in jobs of interest to anyone working in this profession or wanting to go into it. Everybody was proud to talk about an industry which brings happiness and beauty to those it touches. “STAKES AND PROFESSIONS IN PERFUMERY” A limited Edition is only available on request at the following contact: Sophie d’Auber - +33(0)6 60 63 68 80 - sdauber@akeonet.com 80 signatures, 256 pages, about 100 illustrations, size 21 x 23 cm Retail Price : € 42.65 tax excluded, € 45 tax included (VAT 5.5%) For quantities > 5 issues, please contact us for the price For a delivery in France, the price includes transport for orders up to 10 books. For higher quantities, transport costs will be charged on the invoice. Transport costs outside of France will be invoiced. STAKES AND PROFESSIONS IN PERFUMERY Editions d’Assalit 1st Section: The Perfume Planet A Success Model which has run out of breath? Barbara Le Portz Introduction to the Perfume Market Martine Ringwald Great myths of perfume Annick Le Guérer Perfumes of brands or… brands of perfumes Georges Lewi Focus on The USA: freeze frame on the market Michèle Meyer The label “Made in France”, a successful globalization Nathalie Charon The UK Premium Fine Fragrance Market John Ayres, Sumit Bhasin Japan: Empire of cosmetics Pascale Elmalan China: The Asian Eldorado Pascale Elmalan Latin America: Emergences Luiz Seabra An olfactive voyage in South India Patty Canac Middle East: real opportunities Benoît Rouquayrol de Boisse Russia: a market with an exceptional growth Patrice le Lann The economic pole of perfumery development in France Jean-Luc Ansel What future for Grasse? Han-Paul Bodifee The WPC (World Perfumery Congress), a major event in perfumery Jean-Pierre Subrenat FRANÇOIS BERTHOUD – FREDDY GHOZLAND SOPHIE D’AUBER Introduction Gérard Delcour President of the French Committee of Perfume Foreword Michael Edwards 2nd Section: Stakes For Tomorrow The creation of a perfume Perfumes and olfactory research André Holley The sense of smell and its language Barbara Le Portz, Claudine Drai, Jean de Kervasdoué The Nature and Chemistry of Synthesis. An inescapable association Francis Thibaudeau Creative Processes in Perfumery Christophe Laudamiel The Electronic nose Marion Bonnefille Youth-like Perfume Jean-Pierre Forestier Constraints and Hopes French Federation of Selective Perfumery François Forget Legal constraints for the distribution of perfumes Jean-Jacques Le Pen Perfumes under strong supervision, Perfumes & Ecology Nathalie Charon European and global regulations. How can they be harmonized? Véronique Epstein REACH – Preparation of the Perfumery Industry Robert Fellous The role and the action of IFRA-RIFM Jean-Pierre Houri Creative stakes within the “Perfumery Profession” Karine Lebret The Perfume: a Work of Art? Property and Copy Jean-Jacques Le Pen The Creation of Brand Names in the field of Perfumery Marcel Botton 3rd Section: Professions in Perfumery Brands Marketing Director: development of a brief Virginie Balleys Creation, a source of revelation Serge Lutens Quality and innovation at a gentle price Ulric Viellard Frédéric Malle Editions: a successful example of “Niche” perfumes Frédéric Malle Launch of a brand: parfums Jovoy François Hénin Wholesale-Distributor Perfumes : another view Sophie Thiolas Marketing Group Manager Sophie Delatte 20 years of International Export Experience Benoît Rouquayrol de Boisse Press Relations Elisabeth Sirot Master-Distributor in the Middle East Julien Sprecher - Axel Berrier Subsidiary Manager in Germany Stéphane Seidel New Projects Manager Constance Deroubaix Artistic Direction, the Guerlain spirit Sylvaine Delacourte Duty-Free Sales Michel Mignot Fragrance Companies Perfumery plantations in South Africa Jean-Daniel Dor Perfume Markets: an exploratory passion Patrick Saint-Yves Marketing, Global Management at IFF Judith Gross An Independent Perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï A “Fine Fragrance” Perfumer Thierry Wasser “Consumer goods” Sales Management Bruno Truchon Bartes “Selective Perfumery” Sales Management Yvan Bagnis A “Toiletries” Perfumer Dominique Hazael-Massieux Evaluation, a métier behind the scenes Emeline Benech Production, Control, Quality Jacques Vaillant Partners Independent perfumery, a specific model Violette Oumansky, Cyril Maurus Perfume purchaser for department stores Soffia Meharbi Freelance Beauty Consultant Laurence Goodman Natural Raw Materials Sourcing Dominique Roques A creator of legend Pierre Dinand Designer, the art of the container Thierry de Baschmakoff Market Research: the NPD Panel Martine Ringwald Design and product conception, graphic creation Bruno Lablaine A look at the profession, Cosmetic Mag Véronique Viaud “abc-luxe” Web site Kathy O’Meny “osMoz” Web site Julien Levy Pictures from an Independent Photographer Dominique Silberstein Creation of an event: les Places d’Or Richard Zaoui Exhibitions, Luxe Pack Nathalie Grosdidier Strategic recommendation and search for new concepts Catherine Disdet Independent Consultant Rebecca Narewski Beautiful shops for selling better Didier Clermont, Georges Olivereau The indispensable sample Dominique Lourel POS, display units, windows Jean-Pierre Pignot Logistics of production and distribution, the supply chain François Conin The French Society of Perfumers (SFP) Sylvie Jourdet Training Initial Training, Hélène Boucher High School in Toulouse Denis Akriche Initial Training, University of Le Havre Catherine Malhiac The ASFO & Grasse Institute of Perfumery Alain Ferro Professional training, EDC and Sup Retail Florence de Finance, Thibaut de la Rivière ISIPCA, Training perfumers Evelyne Robert Training beauty consultants, Nocibé Isabelle Mory Training beauty consultants, Douglas Gisèle Beauce International Training, Coty Prestige Régine Pasquet DENIS AKRICHE (Professeur, Lycée Hélène Boucher Toulouse), JEAN-LUC ANSEL (Directeur Général, Cosmetic Valley), JOHN AYRES (President FIFI, GrandeBretagne), YVAN BAGNIS (Directeur Commercial, Firmenich), VIRGINIE BALLEYS (Directrice Marketing, Parfums Lalique), THIERRY DE BASCHMAKOFF (Président Aesthete), SUMIT BHASIN (Director of Global Fragrance Development, P&G Prestige), GISELE BEAUCE (Directrice Formation, Douglas France), EMELINE BENECH (Evaluatrice), HAN-PAUL BODIFEE (Président, PRODAROM), MARION BONNEFILLE (Directrice communication, Alpha-Mos), MARCEL BOTTON (Président, Nomen), PATTY CANAC (Ateliers Thierry Mugler), NATHALIE CHARON (Journaliste), DIDIER CLERMONT (Directeur général, Dragon Rouge Archi), FRANÇOIS CONIN (Directeur, 4 Pole), SYLVAINE DELACOURTE (Direction artistique et création, Parfums Guerlain), SOPHIE DELATTE (Chef de groupe marketing, Chanel), GERARD DELCOUR (Président du Comité Français du Parfum), CONSTANCE DEROUBAIX (Directrice nouveaux projets, Thierry Mugler), PIERRE DINAND (Designer), CATHERINE DISDET (CDC, Catherine Disdet Conseil), JEAN-DANIEL DOR (Directeur adjoint arômes, Robertet), CLAUDINE DRAI (sculpteur sur papier), MICHAEL EDWARDS (Fragrances of the World), PASCALE ELMALAN (Marketing & market research Director, Takasago), VERONIQUE EPSTEIN (Directeur affaires réglementaires et sécurité produits EAME, Givaudan), ROBERT FELLOUS (Vice-Président Global Regulatory Affairs, Symrise), ALAIN FERRO (ASFOGrasse, Grasse Institute of Perfumery), FLORENCE DE FINANCE (Directrice générale, EDC Paris), JEAN-PIERRE FORESTIER (Maître de Conférences, Université Paul Sabatier, Toulouse, Biophysicien), FRANÇOIS FORGET (Président, Fédération française de la parfumerie sélective), LAURENCE GOODMAN (Conseillère beauté freelance), NATHALIE GROSDIDIER (Luxe Pack, Groupe ETAI), JUDITH GROSS (Directrice Marketing Int’l IFF), DOMINIQUE HAZAEL-MASSIEUX (Parfumeur, Givaudan), FRANÇOIS HENIN (Directeur pôle cosmétiques, Parfétique), ANDRE HOLLEY (Centre Européen des Sciences du Goût), JEAN-PIERRE HOURI (Directeur Général, IFRA-RIFM), SYLVIE JOURDET (Présidente de la Société française des parfumeurs, Créassence), JEAN DE KERVASDOUE (Professeur titulaire, Conservatoire national des arts et métiers), BRUNO LABLAINE (Président, ABN Concept), THIBAULT DE LA RIVIERE (EDC Paris), CHRISTOPHE LAUDAMIEL (Senior Perfumer, IFF), KARINE LEBRET (L'Oréal produits de luxe, Directrice création et développement parfums), ANNICK LE GUERER (Historienne), PATRICE LE LANN (Associé, ITEC), JEAN JACQUES LE PEN (Avocat, LPLG Avocats), BARBARA LE PORTZ (Directrice Général, Fragrance Intelligence), JULIEN LEVY (Directeur osMoz, Firmenich), GEORGES LEWI (Directeur, BEC-Institute), DOMINIQUE LOUREL (Directrice Générale, Cofatech), SERGE LUTENS (Parfumeur), FREDERIC MALLE (PDG, Les Editions de Parfum Frédéric Malle), CATHERINE MALHIAC (Maître de Conférence, Université du Havre), SOFFIA MEHARBI (Senior Brand Manager, Selective Beauty), MICHELE MEYER (Michèle Meyer Connections), MICHEL MIGNOT (Directeur Export, Chanel), ISABELLE MORY (Directrice du Centre de formation Nocibé), REBECCA NAREWSKI (Directrice Générale, FindinG), PATRICIA DE NICOLAÏ (Parfumeur), GEORGES OLIVEREAU (Directeur de création, Dragon Rouge Archi), CATHERINE O’MENY (Rédactrice en chef, ABC-Luxe), VIOLETTE OUMANSKY et CYRIL MAURUS (Parfumeries Carla), REGINE PASQUET (International Training Director, Coty Prestige), JEAN-PIERRE PIGNOT (Président, ACP), MARTINE RINGWALD (Vice President Beauty, The NPD Group), EVELYNE ROBERT (Coordonnatrice pédagogique parfumerie, Isipca), DOMINIQUE ROQUES (Directeur achats, Biolandes), BENOIT ROUQUAYROL DE BOISSE (Dir. général, Comptoir Sud Pacifique), PATRICK SAINT-YVES (Directeur ventes et communication, Takasago), LUIZ SEABRA (President, Natura), STEPHANE SEIDEL (Filiale Clarins, Allemagne), DOMINIQUE SILBERSTEIN (Photographe), ELISABETH SIROT (Directrice des Relations Presse, Parfums Guerlain), JULIEN SPRECHER, AXEL BERRIER (Sprecher Berrier International), JEAN-PIERRE SUBRENAT (Président WPC France), FRANCIS THIBAUDEAU (Directeur Parfumerie, Robertet), SOPHIE THIOLAS (Directrice Marketing, Parfum d’Image Group), BRUNO TRUCHON BARTES (Fragrance Director French area, Givaudan), JACQUES VAILLANT (Directeur Qualité, Quest Intern. France), VERONIQUE VIAUD (Rédactrice en chef, Cosmétique Magazine), ULRIC VIELLARD (Parfums Ulric de Varens), THIERRY WASSER (Parfumeur, Firmenich), RICHARD ZAOUI (Directeur commercial, Ch. Wauters & Fils). STAKES AND PROFESSIONS IN PERFUMERY Editions d’Assalit Order Form THIS BOOK IS SOLD THROUGH MAIL ORDER , IT WILL NOT BE AVAILABLE IN BOOKSTORES Company ……………………………………………………...... ............. Name…………..…………………………................... Profession……………………………………...............................................Address………………………................................ ……………………………………............................................................................................................................................. ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………................... 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