Introduction to Wire Wrapping Lesson Plan: Two Basic Projects.
Presenter: Joseph R. McFaul joseph.mcfaul@gmail.com
Grade Level: Middle School and High School (math and fine motor skills)
Content Standards:
Learning Objectives: To create wearable art considering elements of shape, color,
and design; to develop attention to detail, and use basic math skills and knowledge of
science, to produce a visually appealing work of art.
Vocabulary: Gauge, bezel, prong, bail, cabochon, wire, circumference
History of Wire Wrapping Jewelry Art:
Wire wrapped jewelry has been created for at least 3000 years. Wire wrapping
techniques were used by the ancient Egyptians and Sumerians. Although the ancient
Egyptians were master craftsmen, artists and jewelers, they had not yet developed the
techniques for soldering gold and silver. In the absence of soldering, many beautiful
and creative wire wrapping designs were developed over the centuries. Even after
soldering had been introduced, wire wrapping continued through the present day in
many cultures throughout the world. Wire wrapping is appealing because home jewelers
without access to torches and soldering equipment can make beautiful, visually striking
jewelry. This lesson is an introduction to this fascinating art.
(Examples of Sumerian jewelry)
Our Projects: Egyptian Ring and Pendant
Wire Basics.
Wire can be comprised of precious metals including platinum gold and silver and alloys.
Wire can also be made from base metals such as copper and brass and aluminum.
There are different types of gold wire including gold, gold filled and gold plated wire.
Gold wire is generally too costly. Gold filled wire is made by surrounding a brass core
with gold so that the resulting wire is is 60% gold and 40% brass by weight . Because
gold is substantially heavier than brass, most of the material in the wire by volume is
brass. Gold plated wire is brass surrounded by gold only a few atoms thick. The gold
wears off quickly and is easy to scratch, exposing the brass. The main allure of gold is
its malleability and its resistance to corrosion. Gold filled wire is easy to work, does not
corrode and is a reasonable balance between expense and final appearance.
Silver wire: Sterling wire is 92.5 % silver, 7.5% copper. Fine silver is 99% silver.
In this project, we will work with brass. It is widely available and inexpensive.
Gauges: Wire diameter is measured in Gauges from Gauge 1 to Gauge 36. Gauge 1
wire is the thickest. Gauge 36 is the thinnest. The high the number the thinner the wire.
Gauge 22 wire is thinner than 18 gauge.
Hardness. Wire comes in three hardnesses--dead soft, half hard and spring hard.
Dead soft is the easiest to work with. Spring hard is only used in specialty items.
We will use dead soft wire in these projects.
Shapes. Wire comes in three basic shapes: round, square and half round. These
shapes describe the “cross section” view of the wire. The square wire is used in wire
wrapping because it has an edge that keeps the wires tightly aligned and grips the
setting stone. Many advanced setting and rings employ round wire. Half round wire is
typically used for the binding wire. It also has an edge allowing a grip but has a smooth
outer appearance.
Tools:
The basic tools for wire wrapping are simple wire cutters, a pair of chain nose pliers and
a pair of flat nose pliers. Round nose pliers may also be used. The pliers must not
have serrated jaws. We want o marks on the wires during fabrication. We will also
need a strip of plain white paper, a sharpie marker and masking tape. We will also use
a round ring mandrel or thick pen and a thin pencil for shaping rings and bails. Pilers
can be purchased for $3.00 or so from various outlets such as hardware stores,
Michaels, JoAnne’s or from online jewelry making sites (a resources selection is listed
below).
Project 1-- Egyptian Ring.
Materials:
18 inches 21 gauge square dead soft brass wire
Tools:
Ruler in in 1/8 inch increments
wire cutters
chain nose pliers
flat note pliers
Ring mandrel or substitute dowel or pen.
masking tape/blue painter’s tape
pin vise
Sharpie marker.
Step 1. Cut 4 pieces of wire 3 1/2 inches in length and 2 2 inch pieces to be used for
binding. Set aside the two shorter wires for use as binding wires. Lay 4 pieces next to
each other and tightly tape with tape about in the center of the wires. The tape will be
used as a temporary hold until the binding wires are placed.
Step 2. measure 3/4 inch from each end and mark with a line. The binding wires will be
placed here. Take one 2 inch binding wire and make a “V” bend about 3/8 inch from one
end. The bend should be the width of a wire. When done, the bend will resemble a
hook. Place this over the four wires at the mark so that the hook is snug against the
outside edge of the 4 wires. Bend the wire over the top of the 4 wires so that it is
perpendicular to the 4 wires and parallel to the 3/8 end of the binding wire. Press flat
with pliers. Continue bending around the 4 wires to the other sider, press flat with pliers
on each turn. After 3 complete turns are completed cut off the ends of the wire about
half way across the 4 wires. Cut all binding wires on the same side. This side will be
the inside of the ring.
(Figure 1.)
Step. 3.
Bend out
at a 45
degree
angle one
outside
wires of
the 4
wires. Cut
3/8 inch off
this wire.
Make a
loop and
rotate the wire into the binding wires. Bend the next wire and cut off 1/4 inch. Bend and
curl so that the wire lays next to the first wire. Bend out the third wire and cut 1/8 inch.
Curl and bend placing this wire next to the first two. The final wire is left uncut. Use the
pin vise or pliers to put a decorative spiral into the wire between the end and the binding
wires. Curl and place this wire in the same manner as the others.
Figure 1 shows what it should look like.
Step 4. You will repeat step 3 at the other end but you must be careful to create a
“mirror image” of the first end. T do that, the other end of the uncut wire #4 will now be
the first wire cut 3/8 inch from the end and curled into place first. Repeat all other wires
in order as done on the first end.
Your ring should now resemble the ring in Figure 2.
(Figure 2.)
Step 5. The
completed wire
assembly is ready to
be curved into a ring.
This can be done on
a mandrel, dowel or
even a pen. The
pressure during
forming should be
uniform and no part
of the ring should
be forced. There
should be no flat
spots during this
process. The
process itself will
work harden the wire
so that it will retain its
shape when completed. Form so the ring diameter is about 1/2 inch or to size. The ring
should be finished as in Figure 3., below.
This ring is a “one size fits all.” It can be adjusted for smaller ring sizes by reducing the
length by 1/4 inch if needed.
Figure 3 (below):
Project 2. Pendant
Materials:
10 inches 21 gauge square dead soft wire
8 inches 22 gauge half round half hard gold fill wire
square nose pliers
chain nose pliers
masking or painter’s tape
sharpie marker
cabochon
ruler
plain white paper strip.
Step 1.
Cut four pieces of 21 gauge square copper dead soft wire each 9 inches in length.
Tape the four at one end to hold them together. Locate the center of the wire and mark
with a pen. Find the circumference of cabochon with piece of paper.
Mark two locations from the center that correspond with the top of the sides where the
cabochon will sit in the frame. Make two marks on the paper about a quarter inch apart
but centered on the circumference mark. See Figure 4.
Figure 4:
Step 2. Wire wrap 8 turns (approximately)
of half round wire across bottom of frame.
This is the delicate and difficult part. Start
the wrap by making a sharp bend in the
wire, making a slightly offset hook. Place
the hook over the wires and then being
wrapping. Make one wrap at a time and then
press into place with pliers. Figure 5 shows
the hook with one wrap in place.
Figure 5.
Step 3: Using the same method, wire wrap 3
turns at the two high points marked on your
wires. See progress in Figure 6.
Figure 6.
Form bezel around cabochon center carefully
shaping to the cabochon. a snug fit along the
bottom and sides improves the look and the holding
power of the bezel. Bring the wires up along the
sides and tape wires at the top together. See
progress in Figure 7.
Figure 7.
Step 4: secure the bail with a strip of half
round wire about 4 turns. Bend excess
wires over the top of the bail clip excess
and press with flat nose pliers. Check
cabochon fit.
Step 5: Insert Cabochon. Use finger to
slide a single wire “long prong” on front.
On each back use a flat nose plier to
turn out one wire. Cabochon should be
locked into the pendant.
Step 6: Form bail around a pencil or
round nose pliers with remaining two
wires. Bring wires to front of piece and
then bind with 3 turns of half round wire.
Adjust and straighten all wires as
necessary for the finished project. The pendant should like the pendant in Figure 8.
Figure 8.
Variations: Wire gauge, number of
wires, twisted wire, embellishments,
beads.
Sources for materials:
Rio Grande Jeweler’s Supplies: http://www.riogrande.com/Home
Wire Sculpture.com: http://www.wiresculpture.com/?gclid=CKrxmv_u9cECFaLtMgodTToAqw