Gondar: Ethiopia’s Medieval Royal Capital
The Royal Compound
As one of the world’s oldest and richest civilizations, Ethiopia is filled with history; a
history that is still very much alive in its numerous towns, such as Gondar, which lies in
north-western Ethiopia. Founded by Emperor Fasiladas in 1636, Gondar, situated 2300
metres above sea level, was the royal capital of this country for about 250 years. It is
particularly known for its many medieval castles and the designs and decorations of its
churches, many of which are enclosed in the Royal Compound which is found in its city
centre. After speaking with some of the local people of Gondar, I learned about why
Gondar was selected as the royal capital. According to legend, it is believed that an
archangel prophesized that an Ethiopian capital would be built at a place with a name that
began with a letter G. This legend led to a number of sixteenth and seventeenth century
cities: Guzara, Gorgora and finally Gondar. Another legend claims that the city was built
in a place chosen by God. Apparently, God pointed out the city to Fasiladas while he was
on a hunting expedition. Fasiladas then followed a buffalo to this particular city, which
retains an atmosphere of antique charm. Gondar’s rise to prominence under Emperor
Fasiladas occurred less than a century after Ethiopian Christendom had come close to a
total destruction in the hands of the Islamic warlord, Ahmed Gragn. His forces created a
national catastrophe for Ethiopia between 1528 and 1543. Hundreds of churches in the
Christian highlands, from Axum in the north to the shores of Lake Tana in the west, were
looted and burnt. Gondar rose from ashes of this smoldering backdrop of such a traumatic
history. Emperor Fasiladas and his successors tried to rebuild their national heritage in
Gondar, a city that allowed for the renaissance of the golden days of Axum and Lalibela.
Making my way to the Royal Compound, I could feel my excitement rising; I was about
to see some very unique castles. Nowhere in Africa can anyone find such beautiful and
historic castles. Although many parts of Africa have castles, their castles served a
different function. West Africa, for instance, is filled with fortresses that were built
during the slave trade era for the purpose of keeping slaves enclosed. These castles here
in Gondar, and in Ethiopia in general, were built for specific kings and queens. Gondar’s
Royal Compound is 70,000 sq. metres, encompassing six castles and other kinds of
buildings such as the royal archive, house of musicians, the lion’s cage, the horse zoo, the
sauna bath and many others. I spent the morning at this compound visiting a number of
castles, all of which have a fascinating story behind them. Each of the six castles
represents a specific ruler. The main castle, built by Emperor Fasiladas in the late 1630s
and early 1640s, is the oldest and grandest of all castles in Gondar. Standing in one of the
dining halls inside this castle, I was told that the men and women ate in separate dining
rooms, which were connected. On the walls I noticed a number of engraved designs, all
representing Indian, Portuguese and Moorish architectural styles. I also learned that this
castle was built during the time when Ethiopia’s architecture was greatly influenced by
Indian, Portuguese and Moorish designs. High on the wall, I saw a few six-branched
stars, known as the Star of David. The guide informed me that this star symbolized the
connection between the Ethiopian royal family and King Solomon. The rulers that
reigned for the 700 years (1270-1974) all believed they had ancestry from King Solomon.
When I walked to the castle of the grandson of Fasiladas, Emperor Iyasu the Great (Iyasu
I), who reigned from 1682 to 1706, I passed by a small water storage area that belonged
to Fasiladas. This 5.5 metres deep storage area collected water from the roof of Fasiladas’
palace during the rainy season. Instead of relying on the water from the lakes and rivers,
which happened to be filled with silt and minerals during the rainy season, the Emperor
enjoyed this rain water that was drained in the storage. When I entered the castle of Iyasu
I, I noticed how it was partly damaged. I was soon told that the first part of the castle was
bombed by the British. This castle used to be well decorated with ivory, mirrors and
paintings, as well as a ceiling covered with gold but I did not see any of this because
much of it is now lost. His most lasting achievement is, however, not the castle he built
for himself, but the church he built; the church of Debra Berhan Selassie that lies outside
the compound. Next to Iyasu’s castle are some ruins of his buildings, namely the concert
and reception halls. Footsteps away, I entered the sauna area, which this Emperor and his
family used on a very regular basis because they had a rare skin disease. Resembling a
modern “Spa/Health Centre,” I saw the area where the royal family enjoyed steam baths
and cold showers. I was also told that outside the royal compound, there used to be a
communal place where people bathed.
On my way out of the compound, I stopped by the buildings built during the reign of
Emperor Bakaffa (1721-1730); the banquet hall and the castle, where he lived with his
wife, Empress Mentawab. Following his death, his son, Iyasu II, was too young to take
the thrown. As a result, Empress Mentawab reigned from 1730 – 1755, but after 12 years
of ruling from the palace in the royal compound, she decided to build her own palace and
church outside the compound. This is because of the gossip that was circulating in the
compound; she had found herself a young lover and this was frowned upon. When I saw
the lion’s cage, which was built during the reign of David III (the son of Iyasu I), I was
surprised to hear that lions were part of everyday life during this time as they symbolized
power. The Abyssinian lions, which are smaller in size and have bigger manes, lived in
the compound with the people and there were no reported attacks. This cage, however,
was built to allow the lions to have their own shelter. What I found particularly
interesting was the fact that many emperors not only built castles for themselves, but
churches as well. It seems that these rulers loved to pray and stay connected to God.
There are over 35,000 churches and monasteries alone in Ethiopia, some of which have
survived from these early times. It is quite extraordinary to find that within one
compound, all these rulers had built something for themselves respectively. They are very
much remembered for what they have left behind.
Links
African History Curriculum
Religion Curriculum
Link to: “Gondar: The Church of Debre Berhan Selassie”
MultiMedia
-Video:
 Overview of the Royal Compound
-Pictures:
 GondarCastle1: The Castle of Emperor Fasiladas
 GondarCastle2: The ceiling of the Castle of Emperor Iyasu
 GondarCastle3: A castle with some ruins
 GondarCastle4: Some of the ruins in the Royal Compound
 GondarCastle5: A castle and a Royal Archive building