Our AerLingus flight from JFK-NY arrived at Shannon Airport about 7:30 a.m. It was
cool as we knew it would be in Ireland. We picked up our Hertz rent-a-car before
9:00. It was a brand new, never-before-rented, dark blue, 05 Mazda with only 141
kilometers on it. In the next two weeks we would drive it over two thousand
kilometers. Our first stop was Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, only seven miles from
Shannon Airport, just the right distance for me to begin to adjust to driving in Ireland.
Before heading south to Cork, we stopped at Bridgetown, Co. Clare, just north of
Limerick City, to visit Cooney’s bar. At Bridgetown, which was somewhat difficult to
find, we took photos and chatted with the publican, a Cooney, about the Cooneys in
North Carolina. We arrived at Findus farm in Co. Cork about 8:00 p.m. On arrival,
our hostess, Mary O’Sullivan, served us tea and warm scones with custard and fresh
strawberries. The sun did not set until nearly 11:00 p.m. At the Bunratty gift shop we
found the traditional Irish music CD “Happy to Meet” of James and Carol Cullinan
who would be our hosts at their seafood restaurant and beautiful guest house in
Doolin, Co. Clare during our final days in Ireland. We listened to it often on the
excellent CD player in “our” new Mazda. The woman at the gift shop recommended
the CD as the best traditional Irish music CD she knew. James plays fiddle and Carol
piano; they are accompanied by their friend Peter Crotty who died last January, and
was according to some the greatest Irish flute player of all time. We listened to the CD
almost continuously for the next two weeks as it was the only one we had.
On the advice of the O’Sullivans, we drove to Kilarney Town, then on to Muckross
House and Abbey in the Kilarney National Park, and finally over the mountain pass to
Kenmare where we had dinner in a pub. In Kilarney I bought a wool cap at Quills. At
Muckross House we bought Irish Heritage Cards which entitled us, and encouraged
us, to free admittance to dozens of Irish Abbeys and Castles and other sites of interest.
After the requisite visit to Blarney Castle (and stone) and some shopping at the Blarney
Woollen Mills, we returned to Findus House Farm where we had asked Mary
O’Sullivan to prepare us a lamb dinner which turned out to be both delicious and
enormous. At Blarney Castle, Heather kissed the “stone of eloquence” but claims that
I “missed” in my attempt to do same.
Today we traveled over 250 kilometers, from Macroom, Co. Cork to Dunlavin, Co.
Wicklow where we had rented a “self-catering” cottage for the week (Sat.-Sat.). Along
the way, we stopped at Cahir and Kilkenny Castles. We also stopped to buy provisions
at a beautiful and huge Dunnes Stores supermarket in Kilkenny. We arrived at
Dunlavin about 8:00 p.m. The “cottage” turned out to have a large and amply
equipped kitchen, three full bathrooms, fireplace, cable TV, tennis courts, and many
other unnecessary but welcome comforts.
Although it was our first full day in the cottage we decided to go in to Dublin as it was
a Sunday and we figured the big city would be more manageable without the usual
weekday commuters. On the advice and directions of our host, John Lawler, we drove
our car to the park-n-ride at Red Cow and took the LUAS, Dublin’s new electric street
car. First we went to Trinity College where we had a student-guided tour and a look at
the Book of Kells. We found, with some difficulty, Dublin Castle, St. Stephens Green,
and Buswells hotel where we had lunch and took photos for our friend Jean who had
spent time there years ago. We also spent time in the shops, and the huge new St.
Stephens Green enclosed shopping mall.
Today we drove to Kildare Town, Co. Kildare, Irish “Horse Country” and also to
Portlaoise, Co. Laois where we bought some “Portlaoise” souvenirs and sent a
postcard to my nephew Eric whose mother was born here. Heather bought me a
“Prince William” shirt and tie at Pennys (no relation to J.C. I don’t think)
Another “lite” day. We drove to Castletown, Co. Kildare to visit Castletown House.
Today was a full day. We drove from Dunlavin to Avoca stopping at Glendalough both
going and coming. At Glendalough we toured the ruins of St. Kevin’s medieval
monastery and shopped at the Glendalough Woollen [sic] Mills where Heather bought
a sweater she had been looking for. Avoca was a highlight of the trip for Heather and
me who were both great fans of the BBC television series “Ballykissangel” which was
filmed here. The throngs of tourists I had heard once plagued the town when the
series was popular have dwindled and the town has gone back to being just another
small village in the Wicklow Mountains. This made the adventure more fun as we
walked the familiar streets alone. Heather took a picture of me in front of “Asumpta”
Fitzgerald’s Pub, and I took her picture in front of “Kathleen” Hendley’s store. I
think we half expected Brian Quigley, the wheeler-dealer character played by actor
Tony Doyle, to come across the bridge in his Land Rover at any moment. We also
stopped at the Meeting of the Waters outside of town and the home site of Avoca
Handweavers where we had an excellent lunch of smoked salmon salad in their
cafeteria.
The gardens at Powerscourt House are among the finest in Ireland and the world.
Friday was our day of rest, the only day we did not drive anywhere but spent the whole
day in the tiny village of Dunlavin. The stone domed building housed the public
library which provided Internet access. The black painted restaurant is Burke’s pub
where we enjoyed several excellent meals during our stay in Dunlavin. The town
monument to the 30 Irish patriots massacred in 1798 was hit by a car during our stay,
not our car I’m happy to say.
Another long car trip today, we drove from Dunlavin in Co. Wicklow to Drumcliff in
Co. Sligo. Along the way we stopped at Boyle to visit the Abbey, and Sligo Town where
we toured Sligo Abbey. Two Abbeys back-to-back – yikes. We arrived about 7:00 at
Benbulben Farm, Drumcliff, Co. Sligo where we are spending two nights. The views
from this farmhouse are awesome, the front looks out on the Atlantic Ocean and
Benbulben Mountain looms behind the house. Our hostess, Ann Hennigan, made us
tea at what was 10:00 p.m. but felt like 8:00. It’s hard to get used to these days of
endless sunlight. The one-lane road that leads to the house is lined on both sides and
at a height of ten feet with flowering fuchsia hedge.
Today we drove up to Donegal town, stopping along the way at the seaside resort of
Bonduran and the tiny town of Belleek which is just over the border in Northern
Ireland. At Belleek we bought the “delicate teacup with painted Shamrocks” that had
been requested by our friend and neighbor Judi. Crossing into Northern Ireland is a
complete non-issue; there is not even a sign to indicate that you have left the Republic
of Ireland and entered the UK. On our return to Drumcliff we went to visit the grave
of William Butler Yeats at Drumcliff Churchyard where his father was rector. We had
dinner at the nearby and very popular Yeats Tavern which is on the main highway
from Sligo to Donegal.
We drove down to Doolin, Co. Clare, today, another longish road trip. We stopped at
Galway for shopping. Heather found the gold ingot pendant with Irish hallmark-like
symbols that she’s been looking for, and we bought some Galway Irish crystal that we
had shipped home. We arrived about 8:00 p.m. at Cullinan’s Guest House in Doolin
where we are spending two nights. Our room at Cullinans was elegant and spacious
with every comfort of home. The weather has turned summery. At 9:30 p.m. we went
to McGann’s pub for the traditional Irish music and some Guinness, an excellent and
unbeatable combination. Best of all we could walk to McGann’s from Cullinan’s. Up
till now, we’ve been wandering around Ireland wondering where all the other tourists
were. Not so in Doolin; here we are not alone. The Cliffs of Moher Visitor Centre is
crowded daily, and developers are building “holiday condos” at the rate of about five
new blocks per year. I worry about the future of Doolin as it seems fast on its way to
becoming another Torremolinos or Myrtle Beach! Poor Doolin.
Summer is here, warm bright sunshiny days that never end. We took the Doolin Ferry
to Inisheer, the smallest and nearest, but some say the most charming of the Aran
Islands. We walked the island for over four hours and ended with serious sunburns.
We never thought to bring sun block to Ireland. We got back at 5:30 p.m. just in time
to take a shower before our early bird dinner reservations at Cullinan’s. The dinner
was excellent. James is a not only a great fiddle player but a great cook as well.
Before leaving we had the Cullinans sign our copy of their CD.
We left the Cullinans about 10:30 this morning and went into Doolin and then on to
the Cliffs of Moher Visitors’ Centre. We arrived early at Doonagore Farmhouse where
we are spending our last night in Ireland. Our hostess, Mary Sweeny, suggested a long
walk around the back of their farmhouse to view Doonagore Castle. We stopped at
Doolin Pottery and bought a couple of coffee mugs. We had an excellent dinner at The
Stone Cutters, a restaurant on the highway not far from the farmhouse. We got up at
6:00 Thursday morning so that we could return our rent-a-car at Shannon before the
prepaid two weeks’ rental lapsed.