Example Question & Answer AS June 2011 Q8d
Discuss the ethical, social and environmental effects associated with the manufacture of
cotton denim (7)
Note: The question is about the manufacture of cotton denim fabrics – it is not about
product manufacture, use or disposal. Candidates are not asked to suggest ways of
improving the situations described.
The following underlined issues may be included in an answer:
Cotton source:
Area 1(a) Environmental issues: Land and habitats are destroyed to plant cotton crops;
they are treated with vast amounts of pesticides and fertilizers which can pollute
waterways and surrounding land; vast quantities of water are needed which can impact
on the environment if rivers are diverted to water crops, e.g Aral Sea disaster.
Area 1(b) Social/ethical issues: valuable land space could be used for food crops; use of
pesticides and fertilizers can poison drinking water. Surrounding land, where workers
live, may also be affected by fertilisers and pesticides. The pesticides and fertilizers used
on cotton crops can have disastrous effects on the health of farmers and other workers if
they breathe in the spray, or if it comes into contact with their body; people who live
where rivers and seas have dried up may lose access to food, e.g fish, some may lose
their livelihoods because they can no longer fish. Growing cotton uses vast amounts of
water. In many countries where cotton is grown, there is not enough water for the
people to drink.
Processing of cotton:
Area 2(a) Environmental issues Cleaning and preparation require chemicals, eg bleach,
enzymes, pumice which can damage eco- systems if not disposed of properly; dyeing of
denim uses large quantities of water and produces toxic waste which must be treated
before disposal.
Area 2(b) Moral issues: Chemicals used can impact on health of workers if H&S
procedures are not in place; using certain machinery can be dangerous if there are no
safeguards - in the UK, laws protect the health and safety of workers and prevent them
from being exploited by unscrupulous employers. When textile products are made in
other countries, especially less economically developed ones (LEDCs), those laws don’t
apply, workers should be paid fairly.
Energy use:
Area 3(a) Environmental issues: cotton is often grown a long way away from where it
is processed into fabric so has to travel a long way to the factory. This means that fuel
from non-renewable sources is needed for the planes, boats and lorries which deliver it,
and more CO2 fumes and carbon emissions will be released into the atmosphere causing
global warming. There is damage to the road system and need for repair work; electrical
energy is used to power the machines and heat water for the processing using up nonrenewable energy sources.
Area 3(b) Moral issues: Oil is rapidly running out so will cause problems for future
generations; use of nuclear reactors to generate electricity can affect people’s health if
there are radiation leaks
The areas and issues listed above are the main ones relating to cotton fabric
manufacture, but candidates may well discuss other equally valid problems within those
areas. Before awarding extra marks, check that other issues raised are actually different
to the ones which may have already been credited.
In order to qualify for the top mark band, candidates must explain what the problems
are with some precision, e.g. CO2 from exhaust emissions causes global warming, not
lorries give off poisonous gases.
Marks awarded as follows:
0-2 Marks - Very basic information with limited number of points which may not relate
to both areas of concern. Explanation is confused with many inaccuracies and may cover
a very narrow range of issues.
3-5 marks - Sound information covering a range of environmental and moral issues and
which is mostly accurate. Response will possibly cover a narrow range of issues but will
be detailed. Points may cover a number of issues (5+) taken from at least 2 areas
superficially or may cover a few (3+) taken from at least 2 areas in some detail.
6-7 marks - Sound and accurate information covering a range of environmental and
moral issues although they may not be in equal measures. At least 6 issues taken from 3
or more areas will be covered - the candidate will be informed and information will be
accurate and up-to-date.
Response 1:
Cotton denim is not ethical to produce. It is usually grown in hot, less economically
developed countries (LEDCs) and is picked from the cotton plant by workers who are
exploited, as there are no laws preventing this in these countries (e.g. Azerbajan) It
takes a lot of water to produce, as the dyeing and cleaning processes both need water.
This often means that there is not enough water for the workers to drink. These workers
are often young children, which aids immoral cotton manufacturers to exploit them.
Cotton is often mercerized (treated with caustic soda) to remove the tiny upstanding
fibres. It is also usually bleached (for lighter cotton denim as this makes it easier to dye
lighter colours). The bleaching and dyeing and mercerising processes all use water, as it
is needed to clean the cotton afterwards. This water cannot be drunk afterwards, and is
often dumped in rivers nearby. This causes environmental problems, as the animals and
plants in the river are often adversely affected, and in some cases even die, choking on
the dye residues etc in the unclean water. Water is also needed to create lighter faded
areas on cotton denim, which again cannot be reused immediately afterwards and needs
to be extensively cleaned. Once the cotton has been treated, it is transported to factories
all over the world which negatively effects the environment by releasing CO from
exhausts.
This is a very good response which addresses a number of concerns related mainly
to the source and processing of cotton. The emphasis is clearly on the ethical issues.
It was awarded 6 marks; a little more information about environmental impact
would have earned this answer full marks.
Response 2:
By using cotton denim fabrics this is going to have an impact on the environment. This is
because cotton is a very difficult fibre/fabric to maintain. It uses a lot of water, this is the
same for denim. It harms the environment as it is causing pollution due to the fact that
in order to dye the fabric you waste water. Also cotton is grown in hot countries, which
means in order for the cotton to get to the UK it has to be brought by boat which is a
waste and it the fumes add to the pollution. By dying the fabric it can waste water and
this waste water goes back down to the sea, and the toxins in the dye can harm animals,
and this can result to effectively people and the way that they live and what they eat. As
cotton denim is weaved, in hot countries most of the producers of the cotton denim have
back strap weaved it.
This is a simplistic response with little evidence of understanding of the real
issues. Only a very narrow range of issues have been addressed and there are
some elements of confusion, especially in relation to the maintaining of
cotton/denim, and the transportation of cotton. It was awarded 2 marks.
Response 3:
From the start of the fibre cotton requires a very large amount of landspace to grow as
the plants take up a large amount of room They will also require a lot of water to grow.
As a result, a lot of forest land is cut down in order to grow cotton, and water that could
go to people used to water the plants. The cotton then requires picking and being
processed with a cotton gin to remove husks and leaves etc, and then has to be cleaned
and spun, and at some point dyed. Due to cottons absorbency, the dying process
requires a huge amount more water and dye than of polyester, which means more
resources and also wastewater with potentially harmful dying chemicals to be gotten rid
of specifically cotton for denim not only requires indigo dyed yarns, but bleached white
yarns. Once the yarns are ready they must be woven and then the fabric cut and
manufactured into garments, the majority of which takes place half way across the glove
from where it will eventually be sold. The entire process therefore requires a lot of
transportation and therefore carbon emissions, and still a lot of workers producing fibre
yarn, fabric and garment will be working in unfair conditions.
This candidate shows some good understanding of the problems surrounding the
source and processing of cotton. There is a lack of detail about the issues and their
impact, but a number of areas have been covered. It was given 5 marks.
Examiner’s Report Comment
The effect of textiles on the environment is an established topic and candidates are
generally showing good awareness of the issues. 10% of candidates did not gain a mark
on this question. Candidates were asked also to consider the social and moral effects and
again, there was evidence of good knowledge and understanding. Where marks were
lost, it was usually because the effects were not fully explained. Only a narrow range of
issues was covered, or one area was not covered. Some candidates wrote at length about
their perceptions of denim causing religious intolerance and divisions in society.
The most aware understood the combined effects of pesticides and fertilisers on the
environment and health of workers, and how being forced to work in sweatshop
conditions could impact on people’s lives. Centres are advised to study the mark scheme
for this question in order to raise awareness of what is expected in this type of answer.