International Fellowships for Early to Mid-Career Urban Scholars from the Global South Report on Sabbatical period: January-June 2013 Dr. Basile Ndjio, University of Douala, Cameroon In 2012, I was a recipient of the International Fellowships for Early to Mid-Career Urban Scholars from the Global South. The fellowship was granted to me by the Urban Studies Foundation, one of the main purposes of which is to foster collaboration between an emerging urban researcher from the global south and an internationally renowned scholar from the global north. The generous funding from the Foundation enabled me to spend a six month-sabbatical in the Department of Human Geography of the University College London (UCL) from January to June 2013. At UCL, I worked on a research project titled, ‘Sex and the Transnational City: Chinese sex workers in a West African city,’ under the mentorship of Dr Ben Page who is a leading expert in the field of transnational migration and African urbanism. This research, which focused on the city of Douala in Cameroon, aimed to provide critical empirical data on the complex networks through which transnational Chinese sex labour migration operates in this West African city, as well as the strategies developed by various actors in order to advance in their business. The research also aspired to shed light on Chinese transnational sex spaces (e.g. Chinese hostels, brothels, Karaoke bars, beauty saloons, and massage and sauna parlours, etc.) through which cheap Chinese commoditized bodies were dumped into Cameroon in the same way as other goods imported from China. The present report summarizes a number of activities I undertook during my academic affiliation with UCL, as well as the benefits I drew from the fellowship. 1- Papers presented On the 30 January 2013, I was a guest speaker at the Centre of African Studies (CAS) of the University of Edinburgh where I gave a public lecture titled, ‘Sex and the Transnational City: Chinese sex workers in the city of Douala’. In the paper, which was drawn from my ongoing research on Chinese sex labour migration in Cameroon, I argued that the growing Chinese geographies of hedonism formed by different Chinese hostels, brothels, Karaoke bars, beauty saloons, and massage and sauna parlours built on the model of Chinese typical traditional architecture, 1 were transnational sex spaces through which cheap Chinese commoditized bodies were dumped into this west African city, in the same way as other goods imported from China. The results of this research have been developed into an article and will be submitted for publication to the peer-reviewed journal Urban Studies. -On 7 May 2013, I gave a presentation at the weekly Departmental Seminar series of the Department of Human Geography at UCL a first draft of my paper entitled, ‘Remaking the African urban space: Chinese architecture of capital in the city of Douala’. This paper aimed to extend scholarly discussions on transnational urbanism and architectural innovations through detailed empirical examination of transnational Chinese architectural imagination and practices in Douala. I do so by focusing my analysis on what I call the ‘architecture of capital’, which offers me a useful theoretical framework to reflect on the increasing process of Sinonization of the built environment in this West African city. Through a brief case-study of some identified Chinese clusters, the paper provided an insight into the critical role played by local Chinese property developers and construction companies, not only in orchestrating the development of a Chinese ‘ethnoburb’, but also in prompting spatial transmutation and architectural innovations in Douala. The paper has been submitted to the peer-reviewed journal IJURR for publication and is currently under review. 2- Writing and research -From January to February 2013, I revised and submitted for publication a draft paper of a research conducted on young urban tricksters from Cameroon and Nigeria. The paper has recently been published in a collective volume edited by Ebenezer Obadare and Wendy Willems under the title, ‘Overcoming socioeconomic marginalisation: Young West African hustlers and the reinvention of global capitalism’ (in Civil agency in Africa: arts of Resistance in the 21st century, James Currey, Oxford 2014). The main objective of this work is to show through the examples of Nigerian advance fee scammers and Cameroonian international swindlers (commonly characterized in Cameroon as feymen) how email scams and confidence tricks have become for some disenfranchised African urban youths a prime means of overcoming socio-economic marginalisation as well as claiming access to full citizenship. The paper also shows how, particularly since the early 1990s, these young African urban tricksters have been endeavouring, not only to make the most of accumulative opportunities provided by the present system of 2 global capitalism, but also to reframe this dominant mode of capitalisation of riches; that is to ‘corrupt’ its conventional norms and system of values. -In other respects, I made use of my stay at UCL to complete a paper on the popular imagination of Chinese migrant sex workers in Cameroon. The paper is titled, ‘Magic bodies and cursed sex: Chinese sex workers and the popular invention of witch-Other in contemporary Cameroon’. Based essentially on ethnographic research conducted among native sex workers from the city of Douala and their Chinese counterparts, the paper proposes to shed light on the various tactics devised by local native sex workers in order to deal with what many now point out as 'Chinese sexual invasion' of their country. The analysis particularly focuses on the production of extremist discourses that not only construe these Chinese migrant sex workers as economic predators, but especially characterize them as dangerous ‘bitch-witches’ (putes sorcières). The paper argues that the pervasive idiom of occultism, embodied by the concepts of ‘magic body’ and ‘cursed sex’ that now permeate much of the popular imagination of Chinese migrant sex labourers in Cameroon, expresses not only the contradictory imagination of Chinese migrants at large but also the paradox at the core of China’s renew relations with Africa. The paper has been accepted for publication by African Affairs. -During my stay at the UCL I started and completed the writing of chapter two of my book manuscript titled, Behind closed doors: Chinese sex labour migration in Africa. This study makes a historical analysis of Chinese sexual labour migration in West Africa with a special focus on Cameroon. It also provides a wealth of information on socio-economic backgrounds of Chinese sex labour migrants, their social aspirations, their mode of operation and the different strategies they deploy in order to advance in their prostitution business, etc. From February to June 2013, I was also involved as consultant in a project sponsored by the Science Museum of London. This project entitled, ‘Cameroon MMC’ (making modern communication) aimed to explain the relationship between tradition forms of communication in Cameroon, such as the talking drum, and mobile phones. The project also explored the status of mobile phones in the Cameroonian society, as people communicate within Cameroon, and between Cameroon and the UK. 3 3-Conferences and seminars attended In addition to my research and writing, I took part in s e v e r a l a c t i v i t i e s a n d a c a d e m i c m e e t i n g s organized either within the UCL or by other academic institutions across the UK. I have in mind the numerous seminars and conferences I attended from February to June 2013 at the Bartlett School of Planning, School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS), King’s College, London School of Economics and Political Sciences(LSE), at the Centre of African Studies of the Oxford University and Cambridge University. 4-Benefits from the Fellowship I benefited a lot from the Urban Foundation Fellowship both intellectually and socially. From the academic and scholarly point of view, the fellowship offered me an interesting opportunity to further my friendship as well as my intellectual collaboration with my mentor, Dr Ben Page, who is one of the leading international experts on transnational social networks of migration from and towards Cameroon. We even planned to develop a collaborative research proposal on a topic that fits into our common research interests. Dr Ben was kind enough to guide me in both my readings and my writing. His insightful comments and pertinent remarks helped me to improve the quality of the various texts I produced during my stay at the UCL. As regards my academic affiliation, working at UCL was for me both an intellectually fruitful and socially enjoyable experience. Indeed, the UCL Department of Human Geography proved to be a hub for a vibrant and cutting edge research on questions related to transnational urbanism and transnational migration. In addition, I gained a wealth of knowledge, not only from my reading of the seminal works produced by members of the Department’s research staff, but also from my interactions with some of the world-class urbanists and geographers with whom I had many stimulating conversations on topics that overlapped with my own research interests. I have in mind my intellectual exchanges with Pr. Fulong Wu from the Bartlett School of Planning from the UCL, who showed some interest in my work on Chinese sex labour migration in Cameroon. We hinted at the perspective of developing a future collaborative research on Chinese-African relations with respect to city restructuration and transnational migration. My regular meetings with Professors Matthew Gandy and Jenny Robinson from the Department of Human Geography offered me 4 opportunities to hold fruitful discussions with these prominent urban theorists on issued relating to comparative urbanism, African urbanism and postcolonial urban theory. All these contacts helped me increase my knowledge on disciplines such as human geography and urban studies, for which I had so far had a biased understanding. More importantly, a wealth of knowledge I gained from my readings of influential works on urbanism and human geography, as well as my intellectual exchanges with these leading urban scholars, helped me to improve the content of my undergraduate course on urban anthropology and my master course on transnational migratory movements taught at the University of Douala in Cameroon. Socially, I particularly appreciated my stay at UCL, not only because I met some sympathetic and caring people who were always ready to provide a helping hand or to assist me in sorting out some administrative or technical problems. At UCL I also enjoyed a sense of friendship and camaraderie that permeated relationships among colleagues and other supporting staff members. While in the UK, I had the opportunity to meet Pr Thandika Nkandawire, Chair in African Development at LSE, who strongly encouraged me to apply for the visiting fellowship offered to Africa-based scholars by the LSE African Initiative. To conclude, I am especially thankful to the Urban Studies Foundation for providing a fellowship which can enable Africa-based scholars to enhance their capacity building as well as their international profile and career path. This fellowship is all the more valuable and appreciable that very few African academic institutions offer such a support permitting their researchers to conduct highquality research. 5