ΓΡΑΦΕΙΟ ΟΕΥ ΣΥΔΝΕΫ
Level 2 / 219-223 Castlereagh Street, SYDNEY, NSW 2000
Tel: +61 2 9264 9130 - Fax: +61 2 9264 6135
Email: ecocom-sydney@mfa.gr
Βαϊανός Ωραιόπουλος-Κελένης, Προϊστάμενος Γρφ. ΟΕΥ
ΜΑΪΟΣ 2015
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ
ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΣΜΗΜΑΤΩΝ
ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑΝΗ ΑΓΟΡΑ
Mε ετήσιο κύκλο εργασιών περί τα Α$2 δισ., 1,400 επιχειρήσεις και 3,500 εργαζόμενους ο
κλάδος της αργυροχρυσοχοϊας στην Αυστραλία αναπτύσσεται με ρυθμό 4.5% ετησίως κατά την
τελευταία πενταετία. Οι λιανικές πωλήσεις του κλάδου αντιπροσωπεύουν περίπου το1.5% των
λιανικών πωλήσεων. Σύμφωνα με τη Jewellers Association of Australia, η μέση τιμή κτήσης
κοσμημάτων ανέρχεται στα Α$200 ενώ οι πωλήσεις σε τεμάχια υπερβαίνουν τα 20εκ.
Περίπου 3,000 καταστήματα λειτουργούν παναυστραλιανά, με τα 680 εξ’ αυτών να ανήκουν
σε μεγάλες αλυσίδες που διανέμουν μαζικό σχεδιαμό και όχι κάτι το ιδιίατερο, τουλάχιστον για εμάς
τους ΑνατολικοΜεσογειακούς με την μακραίωνη ιστορία και πολιτισμό.
Στη μελέτη παρατίθενται κύρια αρθρογραφία από στελέχη του κλάδου σχετικά με την
αναγκαιότητα υλοποίησης εξειδικευμένης επικοινωνιακής στρατηγικής μάρκετινγκ πελατών
κοσμηματοπωλείων (CRM/Customers’ Relations Management Strategy), στρατηγικής πωλήσεων (μη
υπερβολικές εκπτώσεις, αναλόγως εποχής, που καταστρέφουν την εικόνα του κοσμήματος),
ανάδειξη των ιδιαιτεροτήτων των κοσμημάτων, διαφοροποίηση του μοναδικού χειροποίητου
σχεδιασμού από το βιομηχανικό σχέδιο (CAD/Computer Aided Design), ανάδειξη των όποιων
κοινωνικο-ιστορικών επιρροών στο σχεδιασμό του κοσμήματος, στάθμιση παραγόντων της αγοράς
όπως ο κλονισμός της εμπιστοσύνης των καταναλωτών στη διατήρηση της ποιότητας και της
καινοτομίας στο σχεδιασμό των κοσμημάτων, αύξηση του ανταγωνισμού και είσοδος στον κλάδο
βιομηχανικών κολοσσών ή και πλούσιων επιχειρηματιών άσχετων με το αντικείμενο μόνον για
λόγους διαφοροποίησης δραστηριοτήτων, διαφοροποίηση της αναγκαιότητας υποστήριξης των
τοπικών επιχειρήσεων αλλά όχι εις βάρος της ποιότητας ή του σχεδίου, ορθολογική διαχείριση της
επωνυμίας ενός κοσμήματος, αναγκαιότητα υποστήριξης των σχεδιαστών κοσμημάτων ως κλάδου
σημαντικού για την εδραίωση της αισθητικής κουλτούρας σε ένα προϊόν που ναι μεν δεν καλύπτει
βασική ανάγκη αλλά δεν μπορεί να θεωρηθεί εκ των ων ουκ άνευ τουλάχιστον στην ανερχόμενη
μεσο-αστική τάξη.
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΟΙ ΦΟΡΕΙΣ
Jewellers Association
Suite 33, Level 8
99 York Street
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
1
of Australia (JAA)
(Members’ Directory)
Sydney
NSW Australia 2000
P: 02 9262 2862
F: 02 9262 2541
www.jaa.com.au
http://www.jaa.com.au/memberdirectory/search/?command=displayresults
Jewellers Industry
Association
Jewellers &
Watchmakers of New
Zealand (JWNZ)
Jewellers Association
of New Zealand
(JANZ)
Gemmological
Association of
Australia (GAA)
Gem & Jewellery
Institute of Australasia
Gold & Silversmiths
Guild of Australia
http://competitionpolicyreview.gov.au/files/2014/07/JAA.pdf
PO Box 44014
Port Chevalier
Auckland
Auckland, New Zealand 1246
P: 0800 563 691
F: 9537 3919
10A Athelstan Street
Barrington
Christchurch
Canterbury New Zealand 8024
P: 3337 6576
F: 3337 6576
PO Box 41-076
St Lukes
Auckland, New Zealand 1346
P: 9845 3550
F: 9845 3551
www.gem.org.au
New South Wales Division
24 Wentworth Avenue
Darlinghurst
NSW Australia 2010
P: 1300 436 338
127 Kennedy Terrace
Paddington
QLD Australia 4064
P: 1300 883 012
F: 07 3355 6282
GPO Box 379
GPO Melbourne
VIC Australia 3001
P: 03 9654 1338
F: 03 9654 1338
m: 0409934543
http://gsga.org.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=11&Itemid=
11
http://www.gsga.org.au/index.php?option=com_members&Itemid=30
The Gold and Silversmiths Guild of Australia was formed in 1988 by a group of jewellers concerned that
work produced in Australia should be marked as such. Several other attempts, the first going back to the
1890s, have been made but none of these gained industry acceptance in general and duly withered. This
Guild's attempt has been one of the longest standing; our members firmly believe that work produced in
Australia should be appropriately marked. The first requirement of prospective members is that they have
their own Maker's Mark. Our members are all individuals passionately involved in their work and find it
difficult to understand why a person involved in this or any other creative activity would not mark their own
creations. The Guild accepts the time-honoured practice of jewellers and gold and silversmiths to personally
mark their work as desirable, from a position of personal pride, and from the customer confidence point of
view. These members’ marks are struck on fine silver touchplates for posterity, again an old tradition. They
are an integral part of the history of this industry in Australia; no other organization in this profession has
such a record. Acceptance as a member entitles you to the use of the Guild mark. This mark is registered in
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
2
various forms, and therefore protected and cannot be used by anyone not a current member of the Guild,
each punch is numbered and issued to a member on joining. Its use is subjected to strict rules and may be
summarised as such:





The Guild Mark can only be used on metals meeting the Standards now currently set by the Guild.
The Guild Mark cannot be used unless accompanied by the member's mark.
The Guild Mark cannot be used unless accompanied by the appropriate metal purity mark.
The use of the Guild Mark remains optional; all productions need not be marked.
The use of the Date punch is optional, however if it is used it must be accompanied by the Guild Mark.
The Guild system of marking uses a date mark which members purchase each year, commencing on January
1st .The mark exhibits the same letter as that used by The Worshipful company of Goldsmiths - Guildhall in
Britain, but within the shape of the diamond border. This provides ease of recognition of the date of
manufacture, as collectors and others interested have ready access to those images. The use of the date letter
is optional but desirable as it provides full providence of a work. Whilst primarily established to administer a
marking scheme the Guild does undertake other activities on behalf of its members. It is an incorporated
body in the state of Victoria, and has provision for State Branches. A Branch was established in NSW in
2002. The National Council operates out of GAA House in Spencer Street Melbourne, wherein it has a
practical workshop for the development and training of members and the industry in general. The Guild is
also concerned with training of apprentices, and other institutions, which hold related courses, and has over
the years made contributions to curriculum development. From time to time, the Guild holds social events
for members, depending on demand, and usually holds its AGM in conjunction with an annual dinner. One
of the most valuable assets of a member, apart from your punch, is the edition of ‘The Touchplate”. This
journal is produced quarterly and contains informative articles, opinion and reports from Council, thus
enabling members to network with each other on matters of mutual interest. Being a member provides a
feeling of camaraderie and knowledge of belonging to an industry organization that cares about standards of material, workmanship, integrity and consumer protection. It is an organization which respects its industry
traditions, and is, in a very real sense, an integral part of Australian history. In fact, it is difficult to see why a
serious designer/maker in Australia would not be a member of this Guild.
Jeweller Magazine
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΕΣ ΕΝΩΣΕΙΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
Australian Facetors'
Guild Limited
www.facetorsguild.org.au
Blinmans Australian
Jewellers' Directory
www.blinmans.com.au
Diamond Guild
Australia
www.diamondguild.com.au
National Council of
Jewellery Valuers
www.ncjv.com.au
Opal Association of
Australia
www.opal.asn.au
Watch and Clockmakers
of Australia Inc
www.wca.org.au
ΠΑΡΑΔΕΙΓΜΑΤΑ ΙΣΤΟΤΟΠΩΝ ΕΠΙΧΕΙΡΗΣΕΩΝ ΚΟΣΜΗΜΑΤΩΝ
Jewellery Industry
Management & Agency
Company (JIMACO) Ltd
http://www.showcasejewellers.com.au/index.php?mode=find_stores#searchRes
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
3
The Australian company Jewellery Industry Management & Agency Company (JIMACO) Ltd (ABN 22 005
524 863) is the owner of the "Showcase Jewellers" brand. Primarily, JIMACO provides and manages the
strategic direction, marketing, training and ecommerce resources of members located in Australia and New
Zealand. The owners of Showcase Jewellers stores in Australia are members of JIMACO Ltd, and the owners
of Showcase Jewellers stores in New Zealand are members of JIMACO New Zealand Ltd (CN 3074265).
Whilst each are separate companies, JIMACO New Zealand Ltd is a wholly owned subsidiary of JIMACO Ltd.
All members in both countries are shareholders of JIMACO Ltd. The Showcase Jewellers group was
established in Australia in 1981, and over a 30 year period has become one of the largest groups of
independent jewellery retailers in Australasia. Each member owns their own jewellery store - or multiple
jewellery stores in some cases, yet operates their business as a franchisee of the Showcase Jewellers group.
This affiliation with Australasia's premier jeweller buying and marketing group entitles members to access
and utilize world class resources and programmes such as:
 The Showcase Jewellers Staff Induction Training Programme
 The Showcase Jewellers Management Training Programme
 The Showcase Jewellers public website
 The Showcase Jewellers extranet
In some cases, Showcase Jewellers operate as the exclusive jeweller partner in third party programmes
such as: AA Smartfuel (NZ only) and the Hampsta Christmas Savings Programme (NZ only). There is a
JIMACO Support Centre located in Sydney, Australia and a JIMACO Support Centre located in Napier, New
Zealand; which provide key management and administrative functions to members in both countries, and a
contact point for end customers.
Contact Details for the JIMACO Australia Support Centre Phone: 0061 (0)2 8566 1800
Email: Click here to open Customer Contact/ Enquiry Form
Contact Details for the JIMACO New Zealand Support Centre Phone: 0064 (0)6 834-0874
Toll Free Phone: 0508 539357 (JEWELS)
Email: Click here to open Customer Contact/ Enquiry Form
Showcase Jewellers aspire to be the much loved jeweller of first preference by customers around the world.
Showcase Jewellers - 'Your Personal Jeweller'.
Nationwide Jewellers
http://www.nationwidejewellers.com.au/search/results4.php?pageNum_Recordset1
=0&totalRows_Recordset1=320&name=A&Submit4.x=22&Submit4.y=14
Over 500 Independent Jewellery stores across Australia and New Zealand are members of the Nationwide
Jewellers buying group – the largest jewellery group in Australasia. These 500 family owned local jewellery
stores are able to offer their customers exceptional quality and value due to the immense buying power of
the Nationwide Jewellers group. Your local Nationwide Jeweller has access to the latest designs and to a
large range of exclusive brands from around the world including Tolkowsky Diamond Jewellery, Diamond
Delights and Astralis Diamonds®. If you are looking for a quality diamond at great value, contact one of our
Antwerp Diamond Brokers. They have direct access to Antwerp – the diamond capital of the world, where
80% of all diamonds are first traded. Most Nationwide Jewellers stores offer an extensive range of
jewellery and watch repair services. Many stores can also provide a design and manufacturing service, to
help you create an individual item of jewellery. "Quality Jewellery From A Name You Can Trust"
Wedding Accessories
http://www.mediaink.com.au/wedding-jewellery
http://mediaink.com.au/bridal-accessories
ΔΑΣΜΟΛΟΓΙΚΗ ΚΛΑΣΗ
ΣΤΑΤΙΣΤΙΚΟΣ ΚΩΔΙΚΟΣ
#71
ΕΙΣΑΓΩΓΙΚΟΣ ΔΑΣΜΟΣ
ΜΗΔΕΝ (εξαιρούνται τα ψευδοκοσμήματα, όπου ο δασμός
ανέρχεται στο 5%)
ΣΤΑΤΙΣΤΙΚΑ ΣΤΟΙΧΕΙΑ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑΝΩΝ ΕΙΣΑΓΩΓΩΝ ΚΩΔΙΚΟΥ #7113
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
4
ΕΤΟΣ 2014 / ΠΟΣΑ ΣΕ Α$ χιλιάδες
7113 Articles of jewellery and parts thereof, of precious metal or of metal clad with precious metal
All countries
Thailand
India
United States
China
Italy
Hong Kong (SAR of China)
New Zealand
Vietnam
Switzerland
Australia (re-imports)
France
Singapore
Turkey
Germany
Mexico
United Arab Emirates
United Kingdom
Israel
Spain
Indonesia
Denmark
South Africa
Japan
Canada
Sri Lanka
Greece
Austria
Belgium
Malaysia
Republic of Korea
Lebanon
Laos
Nepal
Bahrain
Jordan
Argentina
Poland
Sweden
Netherlands
Philippines
Taiwan
Colombia
Fiji
Niger
Finland
Republic of Congo
Ireland
Peru
Burma
Lithuania
Saudi Arabia
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
972,635
209,736
142,530
139,278
126,605
102,004
42,816
35,539
22,245
19,672
19,570
19,133
17,934
16,690
9,522
8,568
7,692
4,781
4,544
4,283
4,063
3,245
1,735
1,430
1,190
1,100
900
657
574
528
524
508
485
377
337
303
238
229
196
194
86
82
53
43
43
42
39
38
31
22
21
21
5
Brazil
French Polynesia
Norway
Iceland
Cameroon
Macau (SAR of China)
Russian Federation
Seychelles
Namibia
Afghanistan
Czech Republic
Portugal
Bolivia
Cyprus
El Salvador
Egypt
Mauritius
Albania
Bahamas
Burundi
Costa Rica
Dominican Republic
Kenya
Tuvalu
Ukraine
Belize
Georgia
15
15
15
12
10
9
9
9
8
7
6
5
4
4
4
3
3
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
1
Πηγή: Australia Bureau Statistics
ΣΗΜΑΝΤΙΚΕΣ ΟΜΟΓΕΝΕΙΑΚΕΣ ΑΛΥΣΙΔΕΣ ΚΟΣΜΗΜΑΤΟΠΩΛΕΙΩΝ
PASPALEY PEARL JEWELLERY
http://www.paspaley.com/eboutique/?gclid=CLvwlsmoscUCFdgmvQodwwoAqw
KAILIS PEARL JEWELLERY
http://www.kailisjewellery.com.au/en/index.php
ΕΥΡΕΙΕΣ ΑΛΥΣΙΔΕΣ ΚΟΣΜΗΜΑΤΟΠΩΛΕΙΩΝ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
Angus & Coote
customercare@anguscoote.com.au
http://www.anguscoote.com.au/store-locator.html
Michael Hill
inquiry@michaelhill.com.au
https://www.michaelhill.com/default.aspx#findstore
Prouds Jewellers
Τ: 0061 2 9581 6999
F: 0061 2 9581 6953
reception@prouds.biz
http://www.prouds.com.au/stores.php
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
6
Bevilles Jewellers
https://www.bevilles.com.au/Store-Locations/default.aspx
sales@bevilles.com.au
Τ : 0061 3 8665 9900
F: 0061 3 8665 9955
Vina Jewellery
Τ: 0061 2 9713 5486
F: 0061 2 9713 5487
http://www.vinajewellery.com.au/My_Nearest_Stockist.htm
vina@vinajewellery.com.au
ΧΑΡΑΚΤΗΡΙΣΤΙΚΑ ΚΟΣΜΗΜΑΤΟΠΩΛΕΙΑ
SYDNEY
Anania Australia Jewellers Pty Ltd.
02 9299 4251
Level 1, 235 Clarence Street
Sydney NSW, 2000 Australia
www.anania.com.au
sales@anania.com.au
Darryn Kdner Jewellery Design Pty Ltd.
02 9232 2727
Suite 805, Level 8,
155 King Street
Sydney NSW, 2000 Australia
www.dkjewellery.com
darryn@dkjewellery.com.au
Gary Thyregod Pty Ltd.
02 92525535
Suite 1102, 4 Bridge Street
Sydney NSW, 2000 Australia
gary@garythyregod.com.au
Larsen Wedding Rings Pty Ltd.
02 9223 2006
Level 5, The Strand Arcade,
412-414 George Street
Sydney NSW, 2000 Australia
sydney@larsenjewellery.com.au
ΜΕLBOURNE
Collins Street Jewellers Pty Ltd.
03 8060 5153
Suite 306, 220 Collins Street
Melbourne VIC, 3000 Australia
sales@collinsstreetjeweller.com.au
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
7
Ian Murray Jewellery Services Pty Ltd. (Jewellery by Ellissi)
03 9662 1408
Suite 910, 220 Collins Street
Melbourne VIC, 3000 Australia
www.ellissi.com
ellissi@mac.com
Kush Diamonds
03 9602 3337
Suite 717, Level 7,
343 Little Collin Street
Melbourne VIC, 3000 Australia
www.kushdiamonds.com.au
sabrina@kushdiamonds.com.au
PERTH
Christopher Bailey Jewellers Pty Ltd.
08 9367 7577
Shop 3, South Shore Piazza,
Mends Street
South Perth WA, 6151 Australia
www.christopherbailey.com.au
chris@christopherbailey.com.au
ΠΑΡΑΜΕΤΡΟΠΟΙΗΜΕΝΟΣ ΗΛΕΚΤΡΟΝΙΚΟΣ ΚΑΤΑΛΟΓΟΣ ΕΠΙΧΕΙΡΗΣΕΩΝ ΚΟΣΜΗΜΑΤΩΝ
JEWELLERY RETAILERS
https://www.yellowpages.com.au/search/listings?clue=jewellers-retail&locationClue=Sydney%2C+NSW+2000&lat=33.875167119623335&lon=151.2086995785341&selectedViewMode=list
JEWELLERY WHOLESALERS & MANUFACTURERS
https://www.yellowpages.com.au/search/listings?clue=jewellers++wholesalers+%26+manufacturers&locationClue=Sydney%2C+NSW+2000&lat=33.875167119623335&lon=151.2086995785341&selectedViewMode=list
JEWELLERY DESIGNERS
https://www.yellowpages.com.au/search/listings?clue=jewellery+designers&locationClue=Sydn
ey%2C+NSW+2000&lat=33.875167119623335&lon=151.2086995785341&selectedViewMode=list
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΑ ΕΝΤΥΠΑ
AUSTRALIAN JEWELLER
(Report)
http://www.jewellermagazine.com/Jewellery-News.aspx
http://www.jewellermagazine.com/Article.aspx?id=1296
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
8
1/558 City Rd
South Melbourne
VIC Australia 3205
P: 03 9696 7200
F: 03 9696 8313
Jeweller is Australia's leading business-to-business magazine serving the jewellery industry. An
independent survey found that Jeweller is the most widely read industry magazine by far. The print
magazine is distributed nationally to all members of the Jewellers Association of Australia (JAA), paid
subscribers as well as independent jewellery retailers and their suppliers. The magazine keeps readers
informed about trends and developments in the jewellery industry as well as techniques to improve
productivity and increase sales and customer service.
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΕΣ ΑΝΑΦΟΡΕΣ
AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERS STAND STRONG
By Lorna Goodyer
The number of jewellery stores in Australia has remained reassuringly steady in the past three years
and, in fact, many sectors have expanded. Australia’s retail jewellery industry is growing and the
independent sector continues to hold its own against the chain store operators. The findings are part
of Jeweller's 2010 State of the Industry report, a six-month survey into the Australian and New
Zealand jewellery industries.
Jeweller editor Coleby Nicholson posed the following questions;
“Do you think the number of independent jewellery stores in Australia would be increasing or
decreasing? Of all independent stores, what percentage belongs to a buying group? “In fact, perhaps
we should first ask; how many jewellery stores are there are in Australia?”
Nicholson said that although the percentage of independent jewellery stores as a total of the overall
Australian market had remained stable, and healthy, it appears that independent Kiwi jewellery
stores may be in decline when compared with chains stores. Nicholson said that the comprehensive
Report identified some interesting facts. “Would it surprise you to know that Queensland has more
fine jewellery chain stores than Victoria even though Victoria has the larger population? Perhaps you
already knew that, but can you tell me which sector (not product) of the market has grown by 94 per
cent in the past three years?”
“The report goes into great detail about independent jewellery stores, chains stores, buying groups,
shopping centres and a whole range of valuable data. For example, I wonder how many people know
the name of the retailer that opened 35 new jewellery stores in eight months?”
Some of the comprehensive sections include an indepth analysis of;
* Independent Stores
* Buying Groups
* Chain Stores
* Births, Deaths and Marriages
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
9
* Fashion Chain Stores
* Flagship and Brand Stores
* Shopping Centres
* Jewellery Kiosks
* Industry Associations
* New Zealand Jewellery industry statistics
* Future Trends: E-Tail
* Future Trends: Retail in 2020
The 68-page State of the Industry report is a comprehensive analysis of the Australian and New
Zealand jewellery industries and is only available to Jeweller magazine subscribers. It also offers an
insight into the total value of sales for the entire industry last year and the annual turnover for an
average jewellery store in Australia.
* To get your copy click here. (prerequisite to be a member).
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY’S BIBLE: ONE STOP SHOP FOR EVERYTHING JEWELLERY
The 2015 Suppliers Directory has been published and mailed. If
you own or manage a jewellery business then you can’t do
without the industry’s “Bible”. This year’s edition has expanded
“Hard-to-Find” sections. Unlike other directories that simply
publish an endless list of company phone numbers, Jeweller’s
directory is unique because it helps buyers search for those
unique or hard-to-find products.
Are you looking for a medical bracelet or perhaps a monogram
pendant? Maybe a customer needs a nurse’s watch or a
Masonic ring?
It’s all there at your fingertips! Rather than calling every supplier asking the same question, you can go
straight to the Hard-to-Find Index to identify the one that is appropriate – making it the most
comprehensive buying guide in Australia and New Zealand.
Number #1
Jeweller’s annual Suppliers Directory remains the #1 resource for retailers, jewellery buyers and other key
decision makers.
And at just under 1 kilogram in weight and 360 pages, not only is it regarded as the “Bible” of the
jewellery industry but the Suppliers Directory also includes the Annual Watch Guide, which is the most
comprehensive watch directory in Australia and New Zealand.
Any supplier worth their salt is listed and anyone not listed isn’t worth worrying about!
• More than 600 company listings
• 500 jewellery brands
• More than 250 watch brand listings
• 125 individual product categories
• And our unique Hard-to-Find products categories
It’s so easy to find whatever you want, whenever you want!
Interested in getting your hands on a copy?
Click here and email us with the subject line “I'd love to get my hands on the 2015 Suppliers Directory."
Want to be listed in the Suppliers Directory?
Click here and email us with the subject line “How do I get my business listed in the Suppliers Directory?"
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
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SEARCH RESULTS - DIAMOND JEWELLERY
http://www.jewellermagazine.com/SearchArticle.aspx?c=157
Enormous opportunities in diamond industry: De Beers
Stephanie Chan • Journalist • 05/05/2015
De Beers has forecast a period of “heightened opportunity” for the diamond
sector, with industry members being advised to take action now in order to
reap future rewards. Read more >>
Slice of Argyle diamond history hits auction block
Stephanie Chan • Journalist • 05/05/2015
A rare Australian pink diamond believed to be one of the first discovered in the East
Kimberley region will be auctioned next week. Read more >>
Awards mark decade of diamond jewellery excellence
Stephanie Chan • Journalist • 05/05/2015
Jewellers have been invited to help celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Diamond Guild
Australia Jewellery Awards. Read more >>
SEARCH RESULTS – COSTUME/FASHION JEWELLERY
http://www.jewellermagazine.com/SearchArticle.aspx?c=235
Coeur de Lion
29/04/2015
Coeur de Lion makes a statement. Read more >>
South African jewellery range breaks mould in Australia
Emily Mobbs • Assistant Editor • 28/04/2015
As part of an international expansion, a South African jewellery supplier
has announced its official launch in Australia and New Zealand,
pinpointing both markets as being key to its strategy. Read more >>
Australian jewellery retailer ‘invades’ South Africa
Stephanie Chan • Journalist • 31/03/2015
In what is believed to be its first major move since going public, Australian
fashion jewellery chain Lovisa has confirmed a new deal that will
significantly increase the company’s international presence. Read more >>
SEARCH RESULTS - GOLD JEWELLERY
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
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http://www.jewellermagazine.com/SearchArticle.aspx?c=180
Michael Hill makes it in the Big Apple
Stephanie Chan • Journalist • 05/05/2015
Michael Hill International has continued its international expansion
with the opening of a New York store, despite flagging sales in its
largest market. Read more >>
Strong jewellery sales forecast for Mother’s Day
Stephanie Chan • Journalist • 28/04/2015
As jewellery suppliers make preparations to help retailers boost Mother’s Dayrelated sales, two industry bodies are optimistic that the upcoming trading
period will outperform 2014. Read more >>
Jewellery ‘ram raids’ head across country
Emily Mobbs • Assistant Editor • 21/04/2015
As another arrest is made in relation to the recent jewellery store ram raids
that occurred in Canberra, a similar incident has taken place in a shopping centre in Perth. Read more >>
“JEWELLERY REPORT GETS IT WRONG”
By Coleby Nicholson • Editor
A major report on the Australian jewellery industry was released late last month. The only problem is
it’s error-ridden. The 34-page detailed report published by IBISWorld includes information about
companies that no longer trade in the Australian jewellery industry, has wrong store counts and even
has errors in financial analysis. Jeweller obtained a copy of ‘Watch and Jewellery Retailing in
Australia – April 2012’ and began dissecting it. We presented a number of questions to IBISWorld’s
analyst team over the last week in an attempt to get to the bottom of erroneous and misleading
information. The most glaring error pertains to Sunglass Hut, which was attributed with having 160
stores and 2 per cent market share of the Australian watch and jewellery retail market. The only
problem is that the business no longer operates in the jewellery industry, and has not done so since
2009. A spokesperson for Sunglass Hut explained that while the company was winding back its
‘Watch Station’ business in 2008, it was certainly out of the industry by January 2009. The
embarrassing error is made all the worse by the fact that IBISWorld was made aware of errors in its
previous report. However, there was either no attempt to rectify the quality of the report or the
analyst team could not indentify that Sunglass Hut-Watch Station was no longer selling watches. A
simple visit to the company’s website would have highlighted the fact there is no mention of
watches. The error was therefore repeated in the current edition though Mike Estes, IBISWorld’s
production manager, quickly acknowledged the mistake and has updated the report
accordingly. However, Estes had a number of other issues to investigate after being contacted by
Jeweller.
History repeating: A number of other errors have been repeated in the current report after being
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
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included in the previous year’s report:
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Zamels was listed as having a 1.5 per cent market share noting that, “Zamels has grown to
almost 70 stores nationwide”. Zamels store count was listed in Jeweller’s 2010 State of the
Industry Report with 100 stores. It has reached 102 in recent times, though it has fallen to 99
since the business was sold late last year, not 70 stores. IBISWorld could have updated its
information quite easily by visiting the Zamels website which lists all 99 stores.
Salera Jewellers is another retailer that has been wrongly reported. The 2011 IBISWorld report
lists the company as having 0.4 per cent of the market with 18 stores. Unlike Zamels, which was
not updated for the 2012 report, the Salera information was updated - incorrectly.
“Salera
operates around 30 stores across Victoria and Queensland,” the new report states, however
Frank Salera confirmed that he has only 23 stores.
While Estes also confirmed these errors, he had more to contend with when it came to the major
‘players’ in the Australian jewellery industry. IBISWorld will be feeling a great deal of
embarrassment given the company’s website proclaims it prides itself on providing “independent,
accurate, comprehensive, and up to date research on over 500 industries”.
Numbers not adding up: The 2012 IBISWorld report estimated the jewellery industry’s revenue at
$3.8 billion. It also correctly lists Prouds Jewellers, or more correctly James Pascoe Ltd, as the largest
retailer by market share. James Pascoe also owns Angus & Coote and Goldmark Jewellers, however
the company is privately held and therefore its financial data is not on the public record. IBISWorld
therefore estimates James Pascoe’s revenue for the period at $600 million and allocates it 12 per
cent share of the market. However using IBISWorld’s own data, the calculation of its market share is
closer to 16 per cent! Estes’ explanation was, “Prouds is diversified vertically and is involved in
manufacturing, wholesaling and retailing (all of which pertain to different industries). Therefore, we
cannot simply take Prouds’ total revenue and divide this by industry revenue, as not all of Prouds’
revenue is sourced from retailing, and this is the only aspect concerning the industry in question.”
Jeweller pointed out that while that may be so, the report doesn’t offer any explanation or insight
into that point, leaving readers to conclude that the only data to appear in a retail report about the
market share of a retailer is the company’s retail figures. Therefore the estimated retail revenue
figures ($600 million) were wrong or the estimated market share (12 per cent) was wrong, either
way, the matter should have been explained. A similar error occurred with the data published
regarding Michael Hill Jewellers, which was attributed with 8 per cent of the Australian jewellery
market. Unlike Prouds, which is not publically listed, Michael Hill’s financial records are on the public
record, and easily accessible. Nationwide managing director Colin Pocklington: If the revenue for the
period is estimated to be $3.8 billion and IBISWorld’s report estimates Michael Hill as having 8 per
cent of the market then that equates to sales of over $300 million. However, Michael Hill’s revenue in
Australia is around $250 million, which makes its market share less than 6.5 per cent so we asked
Estes to explain the error especially given IBISWorld sells other reports on Michael Hill specifically. To
be fair to Estes, he conducted a thorough investigation on this error and provided a detailed
explanation, but at the end of the day it fell down to, “The analyst has misread the report and used
NZD figures [New Zealand dollars], but is now aware and will amend.” That will come as no surprise
to Philip Taylor, chief financial officer Michael Hill, who was aware of the errors in the report before
Jeweller contacted him. “Yes, I purchased the report only to find that the data about our company
was wrong. I also recognised quite a few other errors which is very disappointing given that we paid
$800 to use the report for market analysis,” Taylor said.
Little knowledge: Colin Pocklington, managing director Nationwide Jewellers, Australia and New
Zealand’s largest buying group representing 513 stores, says he’s been disappointed in the IBISWorld
reports for many years, so much so that he disregards them completely. According to Pocklington,
you only need look at the report’s opening definition to conclude IBISWorld has little knowledge of
the current industry. “They give the industry definition as retailing a ‘broad range of watch and
jewellery products along with tableware, glassware, cutlery, cooking utensils, clocks and other
goods’, which may have been true in the 1960s and 70s, but almost no [jewellery]stores sell
tableware, glassware, cutlery and cooking utensils these days except for a few country stores,” he
said. The observation is correct, but Pocklington points to more substantive errors. Michael Hill
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
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Jewellers has around 140 stores in Australia and IBISWorld records the company as having 8.0 per
cent of the retail market. On the other hand, James Pascoe (Prouds, Angus & Coote and Goldmark)
has over 460 stores and is listed by IBISWorld has having 12 per cent of the market. “So that means
that although Prouds has more than three times as many stores as Michael Hill, the size difference
only translates to an increase in just half the market share of Michael Hill – 12 per cent compared to
8 per cent,” Pocklington said. It implies that Prouds stores have only half the annual revenue of
Michael Hill stores, which Pocklington says would not be accurate.
Questionable data: Pocklington suggests that some of the errors probably stem from the headline
data being wrong. IBISWorld estimates the industry’s annual revenue at $3.8 billion, but Pocklington
believes it to be far greater. According to Pocklington, although the Australian Bureau of Statistics
(ABS) stopped recording jewellery industry data in 2008, its final report had the annual revenue at
$3.3 billion. “The ABS data was also for fine jewellery stores only and did not include fashion
jewellery or accessory stores. If, in June 2008 the ABS estimated $3.3 billion, and you add the
enormous Pandora sales for the last few years which would add around $300 million into the market,
and you add a modest growth especially if you keep in mind the year ending June 2010 was a very
good year for the jewellery industry, I believe the revenue figure is more like $4.1 billion,” he
explained. Pocklington emphasises that the $4.1 billion excluded fashion jewellery outlets, “so I think
the industry revenue is greatly understated,” he concluded. After Jeweller raised the various concerns
with IBISWorld’s Mike Estes, he began an investigation and quickly acknowledged that the report
contained errors and was now making the necessary corrections and updates. Estes responded to
Jeweller’s criticisms by saying, “We are always looking for additional information and resources to
improve the quality of our reports. I look forward to a constructive dialogue in the future and
welcome any additional industry data that you might have which will inevitably make our reports
better.” He added that it might be prudent for IBISWorld in future to have a regular dialogue about
the jewellery industry. Pocklington, who is also a Board member of the Jewellers Association of
Australia, agreed saying, “They should use a panel of industry experts to advise, and lead their
analysts in the right direction.”
“A CHANGING FACE FOR THE JAA”
With an IT and marketing background, Amanda Hunter joined the JAA as
executive director at a time of significant change. Jeweller spoke to her six
weeks into the role.
Jeweller: What have you learned about the Australian jewellery industry in
your short time in the role?
Hunter: The main things surround the JAA Code of Conduct, the need for
ongoing training and a shortage of people with technical skills. The other key issues facing the
industry include crime and overseas competition. The high cost burden of retail space for jewellers
has also been an eye opener – I am pleased to see the JAA already has a number of projects
underway to assist the industry such as our involvement in the retail leasing inquiry, data gathering
plans, webinars and articles to assist retailers when renegotiating leases. The need for education and
to attract new people to the industry is something I now see as being key, and not something I was
aware of before commencing at the JAA. And finally, I have learned just how important the bridal
market is to our industry.
What have your initial impressions been of the industry and its members?
It has been great to see how many passionate people there are who really care about the future of
the industry. After my appointment was announced many responded by welcoming me and offering
their time, which was a lovely way to start a new role. I think coming from “outside the industry”, so
to speak, is also a benefit because along with my own consumer experiences, I am able to provide a
very fresh approach with new ideas. Of course, I will also be able to call on the experience of others.
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
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Have your impressions changed since taking up the position?
I don’t think so. However, it is becoming obvious that there are many issues that are industry wide
and then there are obviously specific needs depending on business focus or location for instance. I
still have a lot of work ahead when it comes to engaging with the different sectors, and after the
Sydney trade fair, I am looking forward to visiting many locations in Australia to continue my
learning and listening. I am aware of the numerous industry bodies within Australia and overseas
now and I’m keen to investigate how we can all work together and share ideas and resources for
maximum industry benefit. I can see that many businesses have had it tough with increasing costs
and competition, not to mention an economy that has not been kind to those in the luxury goods
market, so I am excited to explore how the JAA can assist as much as possible.
What are the JAA’s strengths and why?
The core JAA team is experienced and hard working. There is a great deal of knowledge and passion
among the Board and the wider community we are engaging with, which are fantastic strengths and
provide me with a great starting point. There are great partnerships in place and there is an
opportunity to expand on these for member benefits. Industry integrity and gaining the trust of
consumers is of huge importance to our industry and I can see how the JAA’s assistance and offering
fits in so well with this. I can also see how the JAA assists businesses with everything from guidance
and discounts to helping our professionals gain recognition.
Do you see any weaknesses and why?
I think they are more “opportunities” than “weaknesses” and that is why my skillset has been
brought on-board to the JAA. There is a need for our membership base to grow and be engaged in
our activities so we can be sure we are delivering on industry priorities. Of course we need to look at
developing new revenue streams outside of membership so that there are more funds available to
put back into serving the wider industry to assist our members in making their businesses more
profitable.
How do you intend to deal with these issues?
Growth and relevant project delivery will be achieved through careful strategic planning, strong
financial management, reaching out for input and taking the time to get out and meet the industry.
Also learning from other countries, industries and bodies is important, as is developing new and
creative marketing ideas to reach consumers. Given that different sectors like to receive information
in different ways, we will conduct research to ensure we are using the most effective communication
mediums. We will also call on others where appropriate, making use of all that passion and the
offers of assistance that I received when my appointment was announced.
What are the challenges facing retailers and suppliers?
I think many of the challenges are faced by both sectors. There is increased competition for instance,
amongst suppliers within Australia for precious metal services. There is also increased local and
overseas competition for wedding rings. I am informed that local suppliers are going above and
beyond for retailers, which is affecting their bottom line and that manufacturers have very high
material costs. There is a requirement for both suppliers and retailers to keep up with technology
and the fact that consumers are so much more technically savvy gives rise to the need for industry
members to stand out amongst a crowd and communicate via online. Brand awareness and
conveying the differentiators of offerings are also key factors for businesses to keep in mind.
What are the solutions to these issues?
From my short time in the role, it would seem the key focuses for the JAA include:
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
15
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Assisting with apprentice training and partnering with those in the industry that need these
apprentices the most;
Helping suppliers and retailers stay up-to-date with training on technology, new trends and
communicating with customers;
Promoting the quality offerings and unique items that are Australian-made and supporting
our local businesses both at a national and state level;
To connect with the industry and help the participants connect with each other;
Increasing the brand awareness of the JAA;
Collaborating with other associations and industry bodies, and;
Specific projects such as ensuring our website is easy to navigate and is offering all the
information it can.
Have you received feedback on whether membership benefits are equal for both suppliers and
retailers?
I am not aware of anything specific where the JAA is letting a segment down. I think it is more
an issue of how do we cater for the different experience needs – for example, students versus those
new to the industry versus those that have very established businesses – and I look forward to
considering this and how we can deliver to all segment needs. However, I do feel that many of the
benefits and projects underway are very relevant to both retailers and suppliers as they offer
business discounts and processes that help the whole industry. Some of these include assisting to
resolve consumer complaints or concerns as well as working with the Government and the ACCC on
industry-wide areas of interest.
Prior to your commencement at the JAA, a number of major changes were initiated. Can you explain
the need for these changes and are there any others needed?
It would seem to me that the progressions in the Code of Conduct, proposed changes to the size of
the board and having a National Industry Council focused on the different industry sectors were all
great changes. This, in addition to utilising task forces and project teams as I propose to do going
forward on specific projects, will be great in ensuring we represent the whole industry, are flexible in
our approach, have the best skills where they are most required and guarantee we have efficient
teams that can see projects through to completion. The other changes will be made after our AGM in
September, where we will finalise our board structure and national councillors. I also plan to conduct
a more in-depth member survey than we have used in the past and to get out and meet members
and non-members, which will also provide an opportunity to gain great feedback. Until we have the
full picture it is hard to comment on any other changes that may be needed.
JEWELLERY'S NEXT BEST THING?
By Bianca Mangion
Women don't self-purchase jewellery with anywhere near the same frequency
as other fashion items. BIANCA MANGION thinks it might have something to do
with the seasons.
I love the beginning of summer – the days you make the transition from jackets
and jumpers to sandals and singlets. It fills me with a renewed vigour and
makes me want to update my wardrobe with something fresh from all my
favourite stores. They’re my favourite stores for a reason: they attract me with
exciting product, bold visual merchandising, sexy ad campaigns and windows that scream: “Shop
here!” They’re easy to find, too – shining like gems over the lifeless displays and beige colour
schemes of the many jewellery stores – some still displaying the same out-dated, finger-smeared
pieces I saw last month. Like other like-minded shoppers, I walk on by, unimpressed by another store
choosing conservatism over current chic.
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
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A recent US market research study of 1,346 self-purchasing women conducted by the Jewelry
Consumer Opinion Council found that 65 per cent of respondents will buy new shoes for themselves
between two and five times a year and 12 per cent will exceed that. In the same survey, 45 per cent
respondents said they would purchase a new outfit two to five times per year, and 29 per cent said
they would exceed that. Yet, when asked how many times they would purchase coloured gemstone
or cultured pearl jewellery for themselves in a typical year, 23 per cent of these women said just
once, and a further 23 per cent said not at all. The report concluded that the demographic of selfpurchasing women is “largely under-exploited and ignored by the broad spectrum of the industry”.
Is this because the jewellery industry can be slower to embrace and merchandise fresh trends? Do
jewellery retailers feel safer treading the same path each season?
Imagine how many more sales jewellers could make if they continually refreshed their product
offering. Store staples like gold and diamonds will always sell, but up-to-date fashion jewellery will
sell faster, especially if displayed imaginatively. There are suppliers and designers in this industry
daring not only to invent their own exciting collections, but also to set their own trends, developing
labels that boast their own brand identity and signature style. If the entire trade went to the same
extent as these fashion champions to catapult their product and brand into super-stardom, the
industry would attract trend addicts by the bus-load.
Customers do care for trends. They seek products at shopping destinations that spark their desire to
buy, their hearts quickening each time they approach a new window – alas, this doesn’t happen
enough for jewellery shoppers.
Fashion retailer Sportsgirl was recently commended in the prestigious UK Retail Interior Awards for
its “super-flagship” store in Bourke Street, Melbourne. This was a first for an Australian retailer but it
didn’t surprise me. I’m a long-time Sportsgirl fan who continually pops-in to see what’s new and, let
me say, it’s a true destination. The last time I checked, a dazzling window display was crammed with
a dozen life-sized fabric dolls brightly-painted in the latest street-wear and accessories; an in-store DJ
played boppy dance tunes; and enlarged product images all left me inspired to buy. Given the
tremendous buzz, it’s little wonder the place is always packed with people. Shopping is one of the
great Australian pastimes because of the excitement and wonderment that stores like this provide.
Destination jewellery retailers who position their business as a component of the fashion industry,
delivering fresh, tasty product, sticky marketing that projects a sexy image, and a super-addictive instore experience, could just be the next best thing.
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY GETS VERTICAL
By Coleby Nicholson • Editor
I wonder whether we're seeing the beginnings of another major change to the Australian jewellery
industry. Bevilles announced recently that it had entered into an “alliance” with large Indian
jewellery supplier Tara Jewels.
The news in itself is a little unusual because as we go to press Victorian-based Bevilles has not yet
clarified what this “alliance” actually means, leaving many to believe the Indian company has
acquired a stake in the 75-year-old retailer. This is made all the more
interesting because Tara is the second Indian jewellery supplier to gain a
foothold in Australia following the acquisition of Zamel’s Jewellers just two
years ago by the M Suresh Group. The Zamel’s acquisition means overseas
companies now own Australia’s three major jewellery groups but this is
not what I mean when I speak of a possible industry change. Instead, I
wonder whether we are seeing the first stages of a major shift towards
vertical integration, where the jewellery manufacturer also markets and
sells their product to the jewellery consumer. Of course, a “parent”
company can’t exclusively supply all product – retailers of watches and
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
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branded jewellery lines are good examples of this. Michael Hill has sold its own watches for some
years, after deciding not to stock third-party watches but I’d argue that this isn’t vertical integration,
given that the company does not manufacture the product itself and simply “brands” it with the
Michael Hill name.
Tara is a major supplier to the US retailer Zale Corporation, which has more than 1900 stores, and
the Signet Group, which has 1300 UK retail locations. The new arrangement with Bevilles is
interesting because Tara operates 30 retail stores in India. While that number is small by Asian
standards, it could provide a peek into the future of the Australian jewellery industry when coupled
with the Zamel’s takeover. M Suresh was a supplier to Zamel’s before it acquired the retailer and
Tara was a supplier to Bevilles prior to the announcement of an alliance, which leads some people to
believe that both deals began as outstanding credit issues. This is not an unreasonable proposition,
given that Tara gained a foothold in the US in July 2006 when it announced an alliance with M
Fabrikant & Sons, a New York-based De Beers sightholder. The two companies formed FabrikantTara International LLC. Five months later, Fabrikant & Sons filed for bankruptcy under Chapter 11 of
the US Bankruptcy Code.
Supplier-retailer link
Just as Tara was a long-term supplier to Fabrikant, Bevilles describes Tara Jewels as “a long-standing
supplier to Bevilles”, and an email to existing suppliers states, “All suppliers will be required to ship
orders directly to the Indian jeweller’s Hong Kong office for consolidation and transhipment to
Bevilles.” Clearly, this “alliance” is not a traditional preferred-supplier arrangement; so what does it
mean for the wider industry? Many people will bemoan more “Australian” retailers being taken over
by overseas companies, ignoring the fact that Kiwis already own the two largest jewellery groups.
While I think it preferable that Australian retailers are locally-owned, even in the face of increasing
globalisation, I think a healthy and vibrant jewellery industry is more important. It was no secret that
Zamel’s was in a sorry state under the former owner, private-equity firm Quadrant. When Zamel’s
was acquired by M Suresh in 2011, I hoped the Indian company would reinvigorate Zamel’s. After all,
there would be no sense in acquiring more than 100 stores without a grand plan, and grand plans
require capital investment. While it has taken some time, industry pundits are now saying Zamel’s
stores are looking better. On the other hand, Bevilles announced six stores would close, reducing the
number to 23.
I think it’s preferable to have international investors reinvigorate the local jewellery industry if the
alternative is not so palatable, but I do wonder how a vertically-integrated market might change the
industry for independent jewellers.
GETTING THE BEST OUT OF BRANDED JEWELLERY
By Coleby Nicholson • Editor
Retailers who decide to stock brands must do more than put product in store windows and displays.
COLEBY NICHOLSON chats with suppliers about how best to leverage branded jewellery.
When the branded jewellery mega-trend first became entrenched in Australia – largely courtesy of
Pandora – almost everyone jumped on the bandwagon. Suppliers and retailers alike tried to
understand the phenomenon, given the jewellery industry was late to the party on branded product,
before trying to ensure they had their share of the pie. The problem was that many retailers didn’t
fully understand the need to align branded jewellery ranges with their store’s own brand. Some
thought the international brands were pennies from heaven – easy sales along with an influx of
customers. However, the number of branded ranges soon began to confuse customers.
These days, retailers are more selective in their consumer offering and have come to realise that
stocking branded jewellery means working closely with the supplier to achieve a complete, long-term
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strategy. Likewise, Australian suppliers have focused on collaborating with retailers to offer a point
of difference and ensure that both parties gain from the business’ relationship. Laura Sawade, Peter
W Beck’s marketing manager, advises retailers that those who choose to stock branded jewellery
must stay true to the brand. “To make the most out of having a brand, it’s important to
communicate the brand’s message, whether that be from their website or other advertising and
communications,” she says. “The brand’s look and feel also needs to be communicated in your store.
Consumers will recognise the brand’s own marketing but if it looks different in your store, their
desire for the brand may fade.”
Brand message
It’s a vital point
because
the
strength of any
brand
is
the
message
it
communicates to
the consumer and
it usually has a
considerable
investment
in
marketing. “Allow
the supplier to
help you with
images, displays
and
merchandise,”
Sawade
adds.
“Trust
that
suppliers are there
to assist you to sell their product; they will do what’s best for you at all costs.” Bolton Gems director
Brett Bolton echoes this message: “Build a strong relationship with your brand manager or company
representative. Use them! Brand managers have all the knowledge, are invested in the product and
want to see it work for retailers. Utilise any marketing materials provided by the supplier and don’t
be afraid to ask for help, be that with product, marketing or training.” Leveraging suppliers is only
one part of any retail brand strategy. If a retailer has exactly the same product (brands) as a nearby
competitor and manages that product in exactly the same way, there is no point of difference for the
consumer. This was the conundrum in the ‘early’ days of Australian jewellery branding, which was
only five to 10 years ago. The good news is that the increased number of brands, especially
Australian brands, has made it easier for retailers to find that USP (unique selling proposition) so as
not to be just another ‘me too’ outlet.
Raj Barmecha, managing director at Sparkle Impex, believes, “Retailers should look for ranges that
break the mould. It’s certainly great to stock what seems to be in fashion, but many sophisticated
buyers like the element of exclusivity that comes with buying a product that is not prevalent in every
store.” While TWM Co chief of operations Roberto Ulas offers similar advice, he also points to
profitability. “My advice to retailers is to try something new,” he says. “If all you have to offer
customers is exactly what the next guy’s got then it’s just a matter of who’s going to make the least
money [margin] to get the sale.” It’s an important issue because when too many stores have the
same product – the situation when the branding boom commenced here – consumers simply begin
shopping on price, which is the opposite of what a branding strategy aims to achieve. Many
Australian businesses have since seen gaps in the market and, either through good management or
not having the large advertising and marketing budgets the international companies enjoy, local
suppliers are targeting small niches in which to build successful brands. “Retailers should realise that
while the ‘system’ of selling branded product seems easier, it can cause an issue by not engaging in
the personalisation of the purchase,” Gerrim managing director Gerri Maunder says. “Retailers then
risk the loss of their client to another jeweller just down the road who stocks the same brand.”
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Retain the customer
In other words,
staff must treat
the sale in a way
that
captures
and retains the
brand’s customer
as their own. In
addition, it’s up
to the brand
suppliers
to
ensure
their
product can be
differentiated
from
others.
Maunder says it’s
an issue she
recognised some
time ago and she
now aims to
differentiate her range by offering a choice of precious metal and gemstones. “With slight
alterations of a piece, it can become a bespoke item styled for you [the customer],” she says, adding,
“What could be better? Happy customers. Happy retailer. Happy life!” This kind of brand harmony
can’t be achieved if retail staff aren’t trained to understand and work with a brand’s message and
philosophy, according to Daniel Bentley, co-founder of Daniel Bentley Fine Jewellery. “It’s most
important to ensure the floor staff understand the brand and its philosophy, and that they get that
it’s more than just metal and gems,” he explains, adding that staff must be able to “convey that
brand’s message to their clients”. Bentley believes successful brands are built around stories. “Each
of our ranges has a name and story about the design and the inspiration that lead to it,” he says. “All
pieces come with a card, which contains the story of that particular design.” It’s about linking the
brand to the customer’s experience. “Creating an emotional attachment to a design for a client will
increase the chances of a successful sale and help to ensure they become a repeat customer,” Bentley
concludes.
Clayton Peer, national account manager for Opals Australia, agrees the brand’s story is paramount
and the whole purpose of branded products, and recommends retailers concentrate on wellpresented ranges to communicate this. “I always advise our customers to maintain a selection.
Customers want to see a variety of designs when they visit a store and it’s important to stock a
story,” Peer says. Nerida Harris of Pearl Perfection says a branded range is designed to perform at its
best when marketed as a whole: “If you are deciding to stock branded ranges, then do the whole
story. Diluting a branded range with generic pieces or mixing ranges just negates the whole concept
of branding, damaging the integrity of the range and also compromising the benefit to the retailer
and consumer.”
Increased demand
Barbara Hastings has closely watched the evolution of the Australian jewellery industry. As founder
and director of Pastiche, she has witnessed everything from the shift of jewellery manufacturing
offshore – when everything was only about price – through to the rise of silver jewellery at the
expense of gold and more recently, the brand boom. There is no doubt in Hasting’s mind that the
consumer’s increasing demand for branded products indicates that branding is the way of the future;
however, it’s important for retailers to carefully consider the brands with which they wish to align
their business and then they must fully get behind the brand message. “Retailers should invest their
time in getting to know and identify with the brands they stock,” she insists. “Having sound product
knowledge and knowing the story behind collections gives the consumer confidence in and an
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emotional connection to the brand.” The key message for all retailers is to not only choose brands
that can differentiate their store from competitors, but also to ensure that branded product is used in
a manner that enhances a retail store’s own identity rather than overrides it. Then, and only then,
can a brand partnership be considered successful.
WHEN THE GOING GETS TOUGH THE TOUGH GET CREATIVE
Melissa Harris runs an eponymous store in Sydney.
With consumers now cautious to spend, the Australian jewellery industry has
fallen headfirst into a mire of narrow, conservative design and uninspiring
retail spaces – Melissa Harris says an injection of emerging talent could be just
the ticket. When I returned to Sydney in 1995, after living in the US for 16
years and wholesaling my jewellery there for the last five, I was horrified by
the first jewellery retail advert I came across. It read something like: “Buy
$400 of gold jewellery and we’ll give you a mobile phone!” What a slap in the face. Any sense of
romance and occasion had been stripped away from the Australian jewellery market back then. A
sense of preciousness had gone from it, and with it had gone exciting design.
There really wasn’t anywhere my work would fit in when I moved back. What I wanted was a highend space with a large selection of very interesting modern jewellery – and what I found was a
conservative market bent towards engagement and wedding bands; if you weren’t in the market for
something with white gold and diamonds there just wasn’t anything (with the possible exception of
Bruce Kaldor’s beautiful coloured gemstone jewellery at Rox). So I decided to open a retail store
where I could present my contemporary jewellery designs in a more unique way than existed at the
time in Australia. I wanted to offer the customer a shopping experience similar to that available at
somewhere like Barneys in New York. A place where you could discover a variety of jewellery
designers who used precious materials in exciting ways. Jewellery that was luxurious, exciting,
organic, romantic and desirable. Jewellery that cradled memories and had stories to tell.
Things did get better in Australia, yet recently I think we’ve gone backwards. I have been feeling the
effects of “the new normal” in retail, typified by a customer that is not as focused on spending, so I
have been thinking about ways to re-engage consumers. I still believe two issues, somewhat related,
stifle the industry in Australia: the narrow (safe) focus of what is produced for the market; and the
fact that the demographics of those in the industry are getting older. Over the years we have seen
the closure of independent galleries and stores such as Quadrivium, Makers Mark and, more
recently, Pablo Fanque in Paddington, Sydney. These retail spaces were a welcome alternative to the
more traditional jewellery emporiums. It’s possible that these businesses just weren’t listening to
their customer – but I can’t help but think the industry could still benefit from a wider interpretation
of the types of jewellery available to the consumer. To once again capture the increasingly
challenged attention of a more discerning public, there surely has to be more choice than massproduced product that is seen time and time again? To concentrate too much on the wedding and
engagement ring market only further narrows the experience of what jewellery can be; a celebration
of milestones, an expression of hope, a shared secret.
The costume jewellery market has risen to the fore in recent years in direct response to women’s
desire to express themselves, and the fine jewellery market has many more opportunities to explore
this desire. To combat an aging industry (the JAA’s most recent member survey showed 64 per cent
were over the age of 45) we need to celebrate our emerging designers. Perhaps that includes
showcasing their work in more traditional jewellery stores rather than galleries, exposing the
consumer to a broader experience of what jewellery can be while also infusing the market with new
energy. It would also go a little way to encouraging younger jewellers to explore different ways to
set up their own businesses. I get young designers walking into my store all the time and my
impression is that it’s really hard for them to get their jewellery into stores. If this young talent isn’t
afforded the opportunity to test the retail market, how can they be expected to learn what retail and
supply really mean? There are deadlines that need to be considered, price points that need to be
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thought about, wearability of designs. Granted, in countries like America the enormity of the market
is different, and the breadth and depth of what is available is different to Australia. But that’s
exactly why our relatively small market needs to be constantly challenging itself and educating its
customer with interesting contemporary designs, thereby capturing the imagination and igniting a
passionate audience for all that we have to offer.
THE FUTURE OF A TRADITIONAL APPRENTICESHIP
By Ewen Ryley, handmake jeweller, and works for Stephen Dibb Jewellery in
Brisbane.
As apprentice numbers drop, there isn’t much motivation for young people to
undertake a jewellery apprenticeship. The low award rate is not incentive
enough which means that young people can be deterred from pursuing a
career in jewellery. While the introduction of university courses in jewellery
manufacture and design now offer a viable alternative to the traditional
apprenticeship, they do so in ways that can be more financially, emotionally
and physically demanding for the student, especially if attending from regional areas.
The need for top-quality training should be a high priority for Australia, given the increased amount
of poor-quality imports coming into the country. Exceptional craftsmanship and recognition of our
talented jewellers is pivotal for the success and strength of the Australian jewellery manufacturing
industry. Technology is rapidly catching up with jewellery manufacturing. Computer Aided Design
(CAD) is developing in leaps and bounds with its accuracy and time saving properties. There have
also been advances in printable metal technologies that essentially eliminate the need for casting
jewellery, and touch probe scanners have been introduced to plot the perfect fitted wedding ring.
Any apprentice-based training program needs to keep up with such technological advances and the
demands of the modern jeweller in order to retain its credibility in the industry and compete with
other training options.
Most universities offer a three to four-year full-time degree that addresses both jewellery
manufacturing and jewellery design, making these course options more popular. University
graduates come out of these jewellery courses with seemingly diverse skills and design abilities, but
are they better equipped to the modern age of manufacturing than traditional jewellery
apprentices? A strong brand in jewellery is the current trend and, despite the strong debate, I think
university graduates adapt better to this wave of branded jewellery, given their vast skills and
abilities with design manufacturing. In saying that, I am a strong advocate for manufacturing
jewellers. They have first-hand experience with consumer interaction and I believe they are more
skilled and knowledgeable when it comes to matters of design and manufacturing; however, the lack
of advanced training in Australia’s jewellery industry is something that needs treatment. Setting is a
prime example of a specialised part of the industry that requires more education and priority.
The prospects of a pre-apprenticeship course, new certificate IV and the advanced diploma in
Jewellery Manufacturing are huge! Not only will it help produce skilled tradespeople, but it could
potentially iron out who is in fact best suited to the jewellery industry. In order to see such changes in
jewellery education, the JAA needs to step up and be proactive towards its outlook, despite the
obvious funding issues with such training courses. It is the figurehead of our industry and needs help
in producing adequate advanced training for its members. The JAA needs to create more effective
marketing strategies, to obtain more youth into the industry and form better public awareness of our
quality-crafted, Australian-made jewellery.
I launched a new Facebook group in June called the Young Jewellers Group (YJG) in response to the
call-out for young jewellers to be more active in the industry. As a group we network, and share
ideas, pictures and just about anything in relation to our trade. We are lucky in that there are
experienced and influential members of the industry just a few clicks away. The YJG Facebook group
has steadily grown in popularity and is fast approaching 300 members. Because of the strong
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increase in members, we identified a need for a web-based group and Brett Low and I have
developed an exciting new initiative called Jewellers Collective. This website, which will be in
association with the YJG was based on the same principles of the YJG, but in a more organised and
manageable environment. It will be a fantastic tool and source of knowledge for not only the youth
of the jewellery industry, but for the more experienced members of the trade. Watch this space for
an official launch date of jewellerscollective.com.
A CHANGE IN ATTITUDE
By Nikhil Jogia
Despite the growing power of internet retailing for all sectors, too
many jewellers are still resisting it. NIKHIL JOGIA, Jogia Diamonds calls
for a new approach toward this dominant medium. In the last two
years, e-commerce has skyrocketed. So much so, that Australia's online
advertising spend is now in excess of $1 billion; however, the Australian
jewellery industry is yet to harness the full potential of the internet.
One only has to compare the online diamond market in the US to that
in Australia. In the US, online jeweller Blue Nile now sells more
diamonds than anyone else, bar Tiffany & Co.
The Australian jewellery industry still doesn't fully understand the internet. Unlike traditional media,
the internet has very few barriers to entry. Website templates can be downloaded and installed
within minutes. Domain names and hosting can be bought for less than a cup of coffee. Add to this
the promise from Google that your ad can be on top of the search results in minutes (with the right
bid), and it is very tempting for jewellers to start selling online without any professional advice.
A prime example of this is Gemex.com.au, a blog offering "consumer advice" that has received lots of
attention in the past year. The previous management of Jogia Diamonds paid large sums of money
for a small display ad on this site. As it turns out, the ad brought us between five and fifteen visitors
per month. Because of the low visitor numbers, we cancelled the ad. Still, even more jewellers
advertise without any independent metrics whatsoever.
Similarly, despite numerous complaints and misunderstandings, bidding on competitors' names on
search engines is a perfectly legitimate and ethical practice. This means that one company's
advertisement is displayed when someone types in another company's name. For example, a search
for "Jogia" on Google will yield Diamond Exchange's, and possibly others', advertisement. To stop
these misconceptions, education is needed. The JAA needs to expand its own internet presence to
educate members and to stimulate member participation. One only has to look at Pricescope.com,
with its forum, videos, blog and "webinars", to get an idea of what online learning and discussion
tools are available today. These tools would not only provide a stimulating environment to discuss
issues relating to the jewellery industry, but also an environment free from unfair and unaccountable
moderation and name calling, as seen on many other web forums.
Secondly, jewellers need to understand that just because the
internet is a global resource, it doesn't mean that selling globally
is viable in the long term. Since the internet is so big, carving out a
niche and sticking to it, then expanding your customer-base
naturally is essential. Although Jogia Diamonds sells to clients
across Australia and New Zealand, we are trying to focus our
attention on Perth as local clients are easier to deal with and
more profitable. The internet is changing all the time and the
most successful internet merchants in any industry are forever
pushing boundaries. Marketing strategies and technologies that
ΚΛΑΔΙΚΗ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΑΡΓΥΡΟΧΡΥΣΟΧΟΪΑΣ ΣΤΗΝ ΑΥΣΤΡΑΛΙΑ
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Jogia Diamonds uses, such as localised search campaigns and the ability to phone us from our
website, weren't even available three years ago. What this means is that jewellers can no longer pay
a web designer to design a site and then forget about it. This will not only frustrate users, but more
importantly, allow competitors who do show a strong online commitment to gain an advantage.
A change in attitude is needed. Some say online merchants are "stealing sales". I say they're
"earning sales" by offering a rich user-experience through the use of high-resolution photos, videos,
CAD tools and even simple tools such as the Ideal-Scope. The internet isn't a fad - it is a fundamental
change in how people communicate and interact. Just like urban sprawl has enabled local jewellers
to flourish in shopping centres, the internet has enabled a new type of jeweller to flourish, along with
a new type of attitude.
JEWELLERY MARKETING COMMUNICATIONS STRATEGY
THE ENEMIES WITHIN
John Temelli, director/owner, Temelli Jewellery
Not everything should be sold for a song, says John Temelli. Discounting – both
on- and offline – is ruining consumers’ perception of value in the Australian
jewellery industry. Where has the prestige or the luxury gone in our industry? I
ask, because I’m not sure I can see it anymore. The jewellery industry is supposed
to be driven by luxury and brand ideals such as desire, status, new innovation
and design. But lately I’ve begun to think retailers are losing sight of what makes
it valuable. If this carries on, what was once seen by consumers as a status symbol will quickly lose
that status. Brand ideals will falter and desire will falter with it. There is no doubt many of us are in
this industry because we love it – but there are certainly others who view it as nothing more than a
quick buck, easy money and take advantage of an industry built on trust. In this respect our biggest
enemies are not pressures on the jewellery industry, but pressures from within it. To me, the biggest
evils are internet diamond ‘wholesalers’ and the practice of discounting. These may seem different,
but essentially they do the same damage to the industry and the consumer.
Firstly, an internet diamond retailer advertises nothing except ‘Don’t pay more; buy at cost and save
money’. This is in stark contradiction to the essence of the industry. How do these retailers promote
wealth, status or innovative design? The answer is: they don’t. All they do is tell the consumer: ‘Here
is a cheap diamond; buy it and save money.’
With larger diamonds, in most cases they don’t actually sell them for much cheaper than the usual
retailer anyway. All they do is poison the consumer’s mind to make them believe that diamonds
should be cheap. Lately this is a lesson the industry and consumers have learnt bitterly. If a business
doesn’t make a profit and doesn’t look after its suppliers or customers, EVERYONE will be hurt. We
need to focus on the industry as a true luxury. Why should diamonds be cheap? The price of luxury
cars, for example, is not based on metal or labour costs alone.
Sure there are cheap cars, but if a consumer wants a status symbol they buy a Mercedes or a Ferrari;
a luxury brand. The consumer pays for these products because they present the ideals the consumer
wants to be a part of. Massive chain store discounts do the same disservice to the industry and
consumers. Discounts of 50, 60 or even 70 per cent are ridiculous. Why would a consumer buy your
product at full price if they can wait one month and get it at 70 per cent off? Christmas Sales are the
poster boy of this stupidity. Days before Christmas, consumers are looking for a special piece of
jewellery – a valuable emotional gift. Days after Christmas the same store they felt was providing
this emotional connection and value of love is now selling its jewellery at 70 per cent off! Where is
the value for that customer?
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All it does is teach the consumer there is no value in your product to start with. This starts off hurting
the company that discounts but ends up hurting the whole industry, as consumers think that if the
biggest jewellery companies can go on Sale regularly there must be too much profit in jewellery.
This ideal is wrong. If an online retailer claims they are selling a $16,000 diamond for $4,000, they
are misrepresenting its value. Discounts should be limited to genuine closing down Sales, or stock
liquidation sales. If you have to ‘liquidate’ your stock monthly by going on Sale before you have even
promoted luxury or desire, you are instantly promoting a worthless product. Retailers should always
buy according to what they sell, so there should be no issue of excess stock. Of course we all make
bad stock purchases once in a while, but our stock does not have a use-by date – it can be salvaged
and re-worked or re-designed. The fact is, people don’t buy jewellery every day – I would say an
average of once or twice a year. So why go on Sale more than customers shop?
Our business models shouldn’t be based on weekly turnover. The most successful jewellery
businesses show long-term progressive growth in the value of their brand. Their customers know this
and pay for the desire, the innovation or the status symbol. Every person in our industry needs to
stand back and look at the ideals they advertise. Many businesses will come and go, but the ones
that are here to stay should focus on rebuilding the luxury ideals of our industry; desire, status and
innovative design.
JEWELLERS SHOULD LOOK IN THE MIRROR FIRST
By Coleby Nicholson • Editor
There’s been a growing disenchantment within the jewellery industry.
For many years it has largely been suppliers who have been
disheartened with the industry’s direction but it seems the malaise has
been spreading with some retailers blaming consumers for their woes.
It’s no secret that many suppliers are struggling – and not just because
of the current parlous state of the general retail industry – for some it’s
a longer-term issue. Sadly, the winds of change have been taking their
toll on those who have not adapted to changing consumer demand.
An increasing number of manufacturing jewellers and designers bemoan consumers’ move away
from handcrafted jewellery, preferring instead branded and ‘fashion’ ranges. Perhaps it’s not really a
new issue and they’ve just become more vocal given the current decline in consumer spending. I have
written before about local manufacturers (suppliers) complaining about the shift to overseas
products, criticising local retailers who don’t support local suppliers. Some go as far as saying that
retailers should be ‘forced’ to support Australian or New Zealand jewellery manufacturers via
increased tariffs and trade barriers.
This ‘buy Australian’ attitude has been around a long time, and it permeates across all
manufacturing industries, but recently it has gained momentum after the dramatic impact of the
bead and charm trend upon the jewellery industry. While ‘buy Australian’ is a noble cause, all too
often it’s hypocritical. The same suppliers who call for retailers to support them because they are
Australian can be accused of wanting their cake and eating it too!
For example, a few years ago a supplier complained at length about competing with imported
product. This supplier asked me to write a story about the need for retailers to support local
manufacturers. After listening to him complain for an hour, I asked him to stand up. Somewhat
confused, he stood and I stepped behind and inspected the label of his lovely suit. It read “Made in
Hong Kong”. Of course, he offered a host reasons why he got his suits made in Hong Kong. They had
a wider range of fabric (he was wearing a plain blue suit), it was quicker (how long do you need?)
and the quality was better (it didn’t look like it!). I added for him, “And it’s cheaper!” He looked
rather sheepish, so I asked him what kind of car he drove. You guessed it: it wasn’t a locally-made
Commodore or Ford! Don’t get me wrong, I fully understand the predicament local suppliers find
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themselves in trying to compete on an international stage, but I don’t accept hypocrisy.
Undoubtedly, local jewellery suppliers deserve our support, but in turn, they themselves must learn
to adapt to a rapidly-changing marketplace in which consumer demand is shifting. Consumers’
changing tastes – and the growing popularity of beads and charms – have also been making waves
within the retail sector. Over recent months I’ve received a number of passionate entreaties from
jewellers to protect ‘real’ jewellery from these lower-cost competitors. One concerned reader
recently wrote to tell me that the art of handcrafted jewellery had been “gutted by greed” since the
government removed tariffs, thus allowing companies to “import crap.” Another Kiwi jeweller called
for a negative publicity campaign against the imported beads, asking; “When will the jewellery
industry recognise that these silly little beads are not jewellery and should not be promoted? They
are worthless pieces of silver junk that have no value as soon as they leave the shop door.” He even
agitated, unwisely, for others to support his endeavors to harm the reputation of a particularly
successful brand while, all along, his store sold similar product to that which he described as
“worthless pieces of silver junk”.
Hypocrisy is not restricted to suppliers; retailers can be just as guilty of saying one thing and doing
another! While I sympathise with jewellers’ concerns about how the industry has changed, longing
for the ‘good ol’ days’ won’t change a thing. Ridiculing successful brands for their popularity with
consumers or agitating for government protection of traditional business models is misguided to say
the least. If your business is struggling, the first place to look is in the mirror rather than across the
road! That said, manufacturing jewellers and designers play a vital role in our industry. Despite the
importance of the sector, there’s very little hard data on how many manufacturing jewellery
businesses there are and what’s concerning them.
Do we know how many “bench jewellers” are employed in Australia and New Zealand? No one really
knows! To rectify this situation, Jeweller is about to begin an in-depth study of Australia and New
Zealand’s artisans and skilled trades people.
JEWELLERY STORE SURVIVAL IN A BRANDED WORLD
By Coleby Nicholson • Editor
Last month I wrote about the shift to branded jewellery and noted that because of the speed of
change these days there is almost no ‘norm’; I wrote that after positive change a new negative can
quickly follow. In analysing the branded jewellery evolution and the dramatic change it created, I
suggested that the speed that a business recognises and adapts to a negative is what sets the
successful apart from the not so successful.
That is, many jewellers only saw the positives in branded jewellery; the supplier was driving business
to their store. They did not see the negative; the customer’s relationship was with the brand not the
retailer, and they have not adapted their ways.
Under the ‘old’, unbranded product model the customer relied on the jeweller for product knowledge
and direction, so the relationship was between the store and the customer. But when someone visits
a store to buy Brand X all decisions have been made; the customer knows exactly what they want
and the final place of purchase is often determined by price.
The resulting negative, and what many jewellers failed to recognise, is that the customer was not
‘theirs’. The customer was at the store because of their current, or intended, relationship with the
brand, not the store!
Branded product is great in good times and when there are lots of ‘free’ customers courtesy of the
brand, but what about when sales slow down or customers aren’t returning to your store? Jewellery
has always been an emotional and/or aspirational purchase built on one-on-one customer service
but much of that has been lost with the move towards branded product.
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The positive might be ‘free’ customers but the challenge is to convince them to become loyal to your
store. So how do you do that?
Well, the first thing you need to do is know who this new customer is – after all, you can’t have a
relationship with someone you don’t know. In fact, it’s just like the rules of dating – you have to be
able to contact the (potential) date in order to ‘court’!
Therefore, to begin a relationship with this new customer of Brand X you need to get to know them
and getting their email address is a good start. Personally, I have no problem with providing my
contact details to a trusted and respected business. I won’t hand over any personal details to
businesses that I think will endlessly email or phone me or do not have products I want.
So the key is to show the (new) customer there is a good reason for them staying in contact with your
store. You could start by offering an email voucher for free jewellery cleaning, or perhaps you could
offer to keep them updated about Brand X’s new products and latest ranges.
You need a valid and valuable reason for the new customer to grant you permission to contact them.
But trust is important, so implicit in that ‘permission’ should be that you won’t endlessly hound them
with non-relevant information and offers.
Once you have the initial contact details you can slowly gather more information about the customer
from their age and birthday, through to marriage status, anniversaries and even their favourite
football team. Only when you have this info can you begin to build an unobtrusive relationship with
them, communicating on very specific issues.
While most jewellers conduct some form of mass marketing via advertising and catalogues, email
and internet marketing can be far more personalised and relevant. An ‘old’ world, shotgun approach
is not acceptable in this new digital world. And if you have enough customers of Brand X you could
organise an in-store event in conjunction with the supplier. After all, these are committed and
dedicated customers of the brand that can become loyal to your store’s personalised service. And in
this digital age therein lies the key to turning a negative into a positive: store survival depends on
knowledgeable and personalised service. Nothing else matters.
SECRETS OF JEWELLERY BRANDING SUCCESS
By Naomi Levin
Sure, Tiffany’s little blue box is the most powerful jewellery branding icon in the world – but how can
smaller manufacturers, suppliers and retailers cash in on the cachet of brands? Naomi Levin reports.
That little blue box with its glossy white bow represents what is arguably the most famous jewellery
brand in the world. While the quality and craftsmanship of Tiffany jewellery is not denied, few would
insist Tiffany offers the absolute best, most innovative or finest items available. Similarly, Tiffany is
not that hard to find – it has seven Australian stores, outlets in major international airports and its
website includes a comprehensive online shopping site with inexpensive shipping. Tiffany also has
numerous price points, making it affordable to all.
However, the fact that it is quite common, many of its designs are no longer particularly unique and
it can be purchased by almost anyone does not stop females of all ages gawking through Tiffany
windows and cutting out advertisements from glossy magazines to put on their Christmas,
anniversary or birthday wish lists. So what is it that makes it the most coveted of all jewellery?
Branding.
So entrenched is Tiffany’s appeal that Australian fashion bible Grazia had no qualms bestowing it
with the accolade of Australia’s Favourite Jewellery Store in its inaugural Shopping Awards this May
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– voted for by 20,000 consumers. Grazia editor Kelly Hush attributed the brand’s historic popularity
at least in part to its accessibility: “The collection is aspirational as well as offering more affordable
pieces, so readers feel they too can take part in the Tiffany & Co experience,” she said.
“You may not be in the legendary Fifth Avenue boutique but you are still able to experience the
world-class service and product in Sydney, Melbourne and Perth.” The secret to Tiffany’s continued
success, it would seem, is its ability to present an image of exclusivity while in reality offering
something for everyone, everywhere.
Tiffany has been branding its jewellery since its beginnings in New York in 1837. It first used its blue
colour in marketing – trademarked Tiffany Blue – in 1878. Around the same time, Cartier began
manufacturing in Paris, selling its wares under its house-name to royals and aristocrats, Bulgari did
so from 1884 in Italy. These brands’ prestigious heritage and long-standing popularity no doubt
eases the task of communicating their ‘stories’ and the basis of their worth to consumers.
Michel Hogan, founder of branding consultancy Brandology, calls Tiffany, Cartier and Bulgari
“destination brands” – “People seek them out for not only the product, but the cachet it carries.”
More generally, she says branding has become a way for manufacturers, suppliers and retailers to
encourage customers to step out of their day-to-day transactional buying habits.
The recent boom in branded jewellery signals that there is certainly scope and demand for more
jewellery brands and, done well, stocking brands can result in a real business boost. However,
branding might be easy for global heritage powerhouses like Tiffany – but how can smaller retailers,
manufacturers and suppliers ensure they stand apart from the crowd instead of languishing in a sea
of uninspiring, ‘me-too’ brands? Homogenisation is an ever-present danger.
Good branding, Hogan says, is about influencing buying behaviour and building customer loyalty.
This can be done in two ways: first, by meeting customer expectations and second, through
alignment. “Consistently meeting expectations with your customers is the number one way to build
brand strength. All the great marketing in the world won’t do a thing for you if the promises you are
making are not kept,” she explains. “Also important is aligning what you say and what you do. It is
no good promising a high-quality product and then handing it over the counter – or sending it out –
in a cheap package.”
Pandora
Increasingly important among brands is the internet. Hogan says there are few
businesses that can get away without some sort of web presence. Interestingly,
Tiffany was ranked eighth in a “digital IQ” survey conducted last year by digital
innovation think tank L2 – yet many of the other luxury watch and jewellery
brands lagged behind their counterparts in other retail categories. While big
brands scored poorly for ignoring social media and for having non-existent web presences, research
suggests that small businesses are better placed to take advantage of this branding avenue because
they can offer a more intimate, friendly persona beyond the corporate face.
However, Hogan warns that the internet is just one branding strategy. “Websites, social media and
other online models are just tools,” she says. “What does your brand stand for? Who are you trying
to reach? What is the best way to reach them? These are the questions businesses need to be
considering as they look at their online presence.”
For some suppliers and retailers, a website incorporating an online store may be a golden marketing
strategy, especially considering earrings, pendants, rings and other pieces are small and easy to ship.
But Hogan advises exercising caution in this area. “Let’s say that a key part of your brand is the
personal advice and service you provide in-store at the time of purchase. That can be hard to
replicate online, so that business would need to look at whether selling online was the best way to
support that brand.”
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An increasingly important part of the online commercial sphere is social marketing via Facebook,
YouTube and Twitter. However, the industry is divided as to whether social media can actually
increase sales. Hogan believes it should not be seen as a selling strategy, but a communications
mechanism designed to engage with customers both current and future. She cites US airline Jet Blue
as a company that has benefitted from social media use: “Jet Blue has garnered a lot of attention for
its proactive use of social media to let its followers know about travel problems, special offers and
events, and engage in a conversation about their travel experience,” she explains.
For both jewellery suppliers and retailers, social media offers an opportunity to directly connect with
customers to tell them what’s new, what’s available, where to get it and to give them a reason to
feel positive about the brand.
Kate Sutton’s Uberkate brand does exactly this via Facebook, Twitter and a blog. “Social media has
given us the opportunity to directly communicate with our customers, which enables us to better
understand who our customers are and we really listen to what they are telling us,” she explains.
More than 3,000 people are “fans” of Uberkate on Facebook and these people use the web page to
provide feedback on their favourite pieces. “This form of communication is very empowering for
clients and they feel connected to our brand because they are included in the journey,” she says. “We
also regularly reward our fans by giving away products and offering specials to customers who liaise
with us through social media and this really helps build brand loyalty.”
Karen Walker
Iconic Jewellery has also introduced a major online campaign to help launch
the supplier’s newest line, The Confidante Dolls. “More and more
importance is being placed on a web presence,” Iconic’s Maria Vella says.
“We recognise the power of the media and its influences and we have
decided to rebuild our own website alongside our product sites.”
The Confidante Dolls website provides information about the product: gem-set sterling silver
babushka-style pendants, charms and earrings. However, a sign of the times is the “stories” subsection, which invites customers to share their reason for buying a Confidante Doll and their feelings
about their new piece of jewellery. There are plans to make the site even more interactive. “The
website has the facility to link to The Confidante Dolls Facebook page, and there is work in progress
constructing a Confidante Dolls [smartphone] app,” Vella says. Confidante Dolls designer Sarah-Jane
Adams, who also owns boutique jewellery supplier SJ Jewels, is new to the concept of branding and
has taken a long time to come around to the idea of building a branding strategy into her business.
Increasingly, it would seem, designers are recognising the benefits of marketing an identity for their
jewellery.
What of the future? Although it’s hard to say where branding will go, Hogan believes brands will
have to work hard to keep up demand and maintain integrity in a transparent age. “Brand is the
result of the promises you keep, so as the internet and particularly social media drive greater
visibility of what brands do, over what they just say, more and more businesses will be forced to
consider their brands as integral drivers of the whole business,” she says.
Showcase Jewellers spokesperson Antonia Kratsas believes that for those on the retail side, the
future of branding is a real unknown. “The notion of branding jewellery is still quite new to our
industry so I guess anything is possible,” Kratsas says. “[But] there needs to be some perceived added
value on the consumers’ part if, for example, we’re going to ask them to start paying a premium for
say, a basic gold chain.”
Chris Worth of supplier Worth & Douglas says that if you put yourself in shoppers’ shoes, it’s not hard
to see why branded jewellery could continue to be a money-spinner for retailers: “We know as
consumers ourselves that we can trust the quality of a brand and can easily develop a personal
connection to a brand,” he says. “People love wearing jewellery that receives brand recognition
among their friends or peers and this is one of the main benefits of branded jewellery – it gives a
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range an identity, and a successful brand will bring people back time and time again.”
And if jewellery brands can continue to build on that magic mantra of brand identity, customer
recognition, and repeat business, there’s no reason why this area of the market shouldn’t enjoy
further growth – and not just when it comes to Tiffany’s little blue box.
KNOW YOUR CUSTOMER
By Stuart Braun
In today’s hyper-competitive market, Customer Relations Management systems can help jewellers
learn everything they need to know to keep customers coming back. Stuart Braun discovers new
ways for stores to create a loyal following.
Australian jewellers are facing two problems in 2010’ς: retail confidence is softening (some might
even say melting), while at the same time ever increasing competition is forcing jewellers to diversify
and segment their product offerings. The trick is to carve a niche in the first instance, but then hold
onto it. The latter demands outstanding client loyalty and repeat custom generated via superior
customer relations. As competitors, and discounters, crowd the local jewellery market, establishing
customer loyalty is no easy feat; but the process has been aided by new Customer Relations
Management (CRM) strategies and technologies that can tighten the bond between store and
customer.
CRM is a client data management tool via which jewellers can establish, grow and enhance
relationships with customers – this applies equally to jewellery manufacturers, distributors and
retailers – and thus improve their competitive advantage. Barry Urquhart, a business strategist,
consumer analyst and managing director of Perth-based Marketing Focus, believes those in the
jewellery industry could benefit significantly from such technology. “Regrettably, many jewellery
professionals do not know their customers’ needs, wants and values as well as they think they do,”
he claims. So what exactly does CRM technology entail? “CRM is the systematic and integrated
retrieval, collection, collation, analysis, monitoring, management and utilisation of invaluable and
insightful information,” Urquhart explains. This data can help retailers gain an in-depth
understanding of the preferences, buying patterns and satisfaction factors of existing, prospective
and past clients.
As discounters continue to flood the Australian market, jewellers must build a strong CRM database
of detailed customer information to ensure repeat custom and a “shortening of the purchase cycle,”
argues Brian Walker, managing director of The Retail Doctor Group, a Sydney-based consultancy. For
a jewellery retailer, such information would include, for example, the life events for which a
customer purchases jewellery. “A typical cycle would be engagements, weddings, 21st birthdays and
so on,” notes Walker. “A good CRM program would capture and identify customers who are entering
into that cycle. Once a jeweller has sold a wedding ring, they would have a note in their CRM system,
‘contact in 10 months’ time for anniversary present range’,” he explains.
From ‘herd to hunter’
The CRM mantra demands that customers, and not just product, lie at the core of any jeweller’s sales
strategy. “Customers are changing,” asserts Walker. It is no longer enough for jewellery retailers to
simply push product via catalogues and strong seasonal promotions. Customers now want to feel
special; with so many buying options, they demand a shopping experience that is tailored to their
specific likes and dislikes.
That’s where CRM strategy comes into play, as it can help jewellers gather intimate data on their
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customers’ tastes, lifestyles and so on. “Understanding the needs and psyche of the consumer has
become all too important,” says Walker, adding that retailers have effectively “moved from the herd
to the hunter”.
Cameron Marks, MD of prestige Sydney jeweller Percy Marks, has long used CRM to improve
customer retention amid increasing competition. “CRM has become a more important part of our
business because we know they [the customer] like jewellery, they know they like us, so it’s much
easier to talk to them to get them back in again,” he says.
Percy Marks’ CRM system not only contains customer emails, mobile numbers and postal addresses
for general mailouts, but a wealth of more specific data: anniversaries, birthdates and so on, down
to the date the client first came into the store, and their gemstone preferences. “It has each
customer’s history so we can target customers who have been with us for 20 or 30 years,” Marks
says. “We make an effort to get as much information as possible and make sure it’s accurate.” He
adds that looking after old customers via an accurate CRM can help bring new ones. “We’re always
asking: do you have any friends who would like to get mail from us?” But for Marks, CRM is not only
a customer relations tool, but it feeds into the wider stock and sales reporting process. “We use it
every day. Our database gives us a record of every single purchase and repair; it shows us the
invoices, the manufacturing sheets for each individual sale,” he explains.
CRM solutions
Gathering customer information is one thing; making it pay is quite another. The latest CRM systems
can be designed to inspire repeat custom by allowing you to focus on your most important clientele.
The key is to target “active customers”, says Jason Boles, business development manager at CRM
Logic, a consultancy that customises CRM solutions via the Sugar software platform.
Boles explains that although CRM is an effective tool for organising
customer contacts used in email or mail campaigns, retailers may find
that only 20 per cent of customers regularly respond to such
promotions. “The key is to concentrate on those 20 per cent,” Boles
advises. “The system helps you analyse and use the data to work out
who’s a buyer and who’s not. Next time you send a campaign, target
these people first.”
Marks has recently devised CRM strategies that similarly target ‘active’
clients. “We’re targeting smaller groups more regularly. We’ll search on something that customers
have purchased in the past, like sapphires for example. We inform people on that list that we’re
having a talk and an exhibition on sapphires, and would you like to come along?” If past clients do
express interest, Marks will let them know of other specialised events that might inspire them.
Despite the obvious benefits of CRM, Walker warns that jewellers will need to put a lot of effort in to
reap the rewards. “Typically, some larger scale jewellers would have an employee that looks after
CRM, social media, marketing, that drives business into the shops. It’s not just a launch and leave
thing – you can do a lot of damage that way.”
Marks admits that maintaining a CRM system worthy of the name can be hard work. “It’s very timeconsuming. Every time you see a customer it has to be updated and you have to make sure it’s
correct.” When staff are talking to customers, their information needs to be updated; otherwise it
won’t work for you. A good CRM not only helps retailers plan marketing campaigns, but shows
exactly how well they are received. “With Sugar you can monitor how effective those campaigns are,
and then change your campaign, or add to it, see who’s opted out, who’s forwarded it on, who are
your key people,” Boles explains.
And as technology improves, CRM systems are becoming more sophisticated. Sugar, for example, is a
‘cloud’-based application, which means that the software program and the data are all stored
online. This allows users to access the CRM remotely from any internet connection, and means there
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is no need to purchase and maintain costly servers on the business premises.
Andrew Charlton, CRM Solution Architect at Enabling, another trusted provider of CRM solutions for
a range of Australian and New Zealand businesses, including jewellers, believes remote access is a
boon when it comes to CRM. In his opinion, a “true” CRM system “provides anywhere, anytime
access for management or remote users to view key organisational and customer information”.
Most of these dedicated CRM software solutions also allow clients to link their social media data into
the system, meaning any ‘click-throughs’ from promotions or campaigns on Twitter and Facebook
are saved into the CRM contact data automatically. “The more you put into it the more powerful it
gets, the more user-friendly it gets, so it just snowballs,” explains Boles.
However, retailers need to assess what’s best for their business – many of the companies offering
CRM programs can provide extensive customisation and set-up advice, and Boles says a jeweller’s
incumbent IT staff could easily carry out modifications if necessary. This means jewellery stores
should be able to create a system that fits their business perfectly, and adapt it as they grow.
For jewellers looking to take advantage of a more powerful, off-the-shelf CRM system, it’s easy to
get set up online, as Charlton explains. “You can have a CRM system up and running together with
email and productivity software in under an hour,” he says. All you need is internet access and a
credit card and you’re ready to go. Similarly, Boles says it isn’t necessarily as difficult to switch to a
CRM software program as jewellers might think: “Jewellers right now might be trying to manage all
their CRM on an excel spreadsheet,” he says, “but we can transfer it over to Sugar from any format”.
Customer loyalty
“CRM is no silver bullet to guaranteed repeat custom or loyalty,” warns Charlton. “It is a platform to
facilitate the ongoing process of understanding customers, their needs and how best to serve them.”
The rest comes down to good service – something independent jewellers have long been good at.
“I can’t help but be amused by a lot of the technology jargon when in reality CRM is in so many ways
just systemising fundamental customer record-keeping skills, and relationship skills,” Walker opines.
“Small stores can give that highly personalised service – they’re experts in what they do, incredibly
friendly and they’re very trustworthy.”
Strengthen that trust and personal touch with the customer insight CRM can deliver, and jewellers
will create a persuasive argument for customers to return again and again.
* * *
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