School of Horticulture, Hairdressing and Applied Therapies
NVQ Level 3 Diploma In Beauty Therapy
B14
Course Notes
UB30B14
Student Name:
Facial Electrical Treatments
Facial therapy has long been one of the most sought after treatments by
clients who wish to improve their skin. Facial electrical treatments can
produce significant skin-enhancing results if performed regularly and
correctly. These results can be achieved faster and more effectively than
those of manual facial treatments.
It is important for the therapist to recognise when it is appropriate to
incorporate a piece of electrical equipment into a facial routine.
Therefore, correct analysis of the skin and a complete understanding of
the effects of all equipment is of the utmost importance to achieve the
optimum results.
Client objectives can range from – improving skin condition, improving
contour and muscle condition and improving skin texture; all of these
can be enhanced by facial electrical treatment.
Health and Safety
Safe and effective methods of work are of the utmost importance when
performing any facial electrical treatment. The following relate
specifically to performing electrical treatments
 Never operate machinery with wet hands.
 Keep machinery away from all sources of water to prevent
electrical shock.
 Ensure leads, plugs and sockets are in safe working order with no
fraying wires.
 Do not overload plug sockets.
 Avoid trailing wires to prevent tripping.
 Place equipment securely on your trolley where intensity dials are
easy to see and reach.
 Ensure all dials are set to zero before introducing any electrical
machinery to the client’s skin.
 Do not come into contact with metal while performing facial
electrical treatments.
 Ensure machinery is kept clean at all times and wipe down with a
sterilising solution before and after use.
 Store machinery correctly and in a safe environment.
Contra indications to Electrical Treatments
Electrical treatments are given to improve specific conditions of the
face/body. The treatment must be beneficial and help the client to
achieve their desired results. During the consultation you must decide
whether the selected treatment is safe and suitable for the client. If the
client is suffering from any condition which could be aggravated or made
worse by the treatment, it must not be carried out. These conditions are
known as contra indications.
PREVENT
Skin infections
Eye infections
Severe eczema and psoriasis
Dysfunction of the nervous system
Heart disease/disorder
Current medical treatment
Pacemaker
During chemotherapy
During radiotherapy
Recent scar tissue
Undiagnosed lumps, inflammations and
swellings
Medication causing thinning or
inflammation of the skin
Recent dermabrasion or chemical peels
History of thrombosis or embolism
RESTRICT
High/low blood pressure
Metal plates and pins
Medication
Pregnancy
Body piercings
Anxiety
Cuts and abrasions
Bruising
Recent IPL or laser treatment
Botox
Dermal fillers
Skin disorders
Hyperkeratosis
Recent epilation
Broken bones
Skin allergies
Product allergies
Diabetes
Epilepsy
Facial Micro dermabrasion
Micro dermabrasion is a controlled mechanical form of exfoliation. It has
been used since the mid 1980s by dermatologists and beauty therapists
to perform a controlled exfoliation of the skin, which treats skin problems
such as pigmentation, acne and signs of ageing.
Diamond peel dermabrasion offers the prospect of superficial peeling by
exfoliating the uppermost layers of the Stratum corneum.
The Diamond Head allows the therapist to address various defects in the
surface of the clients skin including uneven texture, hyper pigmentation,
fine lines, sun damaged skin and the blending of scar tissue. The client
will experience an instantly revived, more glowing complexion, even
after the very first treatment. However, for optimum results, a course of
treatments should be recommended.
Contra indications
 Diabetes
 Raised moles, warts, skin tags
 Skin cancer
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Eczema, psoriasis and seborrhoeic dermatitis
Roseacea and active acne
Asthma
Keloid scarring
Undergoing treatment using Accutane, Retinol or Retin A
Using hydrocortisone creams
Recent botox or dermal fillers
Recent skin peels or ILP treatment
Sunburn
Method of Application
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Thoroughly cleanse the skin.
Ensure the skin is completely dry.
Put on disposable gloves.
Insert a clean filter to appropriate sterilised Diamond Head tip.
Perform a gentle exfoliation to the entire face following the diagram
of strokes. Gently move in a sweeping action across the face,
placing a finger on the skin to keep it taught whilst working.
6. On completion of a gentle exfoliation you can return to areas that
need further attention such as thickened skin, pigmentation marks,
acne scarring.
7. Remove your gloves.
8. Apply a calming mask to the client’s skin.
9. Remove the mask and apply a moisturiser and SPF of at least
factor 30.
10.
Provide thorough aftercare advice.
Aftercare advice
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Avoid sun beds and uv rays
Avoid extremes of temperatures – wind, effects of central heating
Use a minimum SPF factor 30 daily
Do not exfoliate in between treatments
Micro dermabrasion can be performed at intervals of 7 to 10 days to see
optimum results. An intense course of 12 – 15 treatments should be
recommended to clients. Maintenance can then be performed on a
monthly basis thereafter to maintain the treatment effects.
High frequency
The High Frequency machine uses an alternating current of up to
250,000 Hz 9 ) a current which alternates at over 100,000 cycles per
second). The current passes easily through the skin producing a
warming effect. This alternating current is not capable of stimulating
muscle contraction because the duration of the pulse is too short.
There are two different methods of application:
1. The Direct method
2. The Indirect method (Viennese Massage)
Direct high frequency
The direct method is particularly effective on clients who suffer with oily
and congested, seborrhoeic and acne skin, as ozone gas is produced by
this method which is of great benefit to these skin conditions.
This method uses a glass electrode which is gently moved over the
surface of the skin; it is sometimes referred to as effluvation. The
current passes from the electrode and is dispersed over the skin.
There are a number of different glass electrodes that can be used for
direct high frequency:
 Bulb or mushroom electrode - this is the most frequently used and
normally comes in small and large.
 Fulgurator electrode – this is long and thin with a tiny pointed end
used to spark papules and pustules.
 Roller electrode – this can be used on the face or is more
commonly used on the body.
 Horse shoe ( T-shaped) electrode – this is shaped to fit the natural
contours of the neck and across the shoulders.
Benefits and effects of direct high frequency
 Drying effect – ozone is drying
 Germicidal and antibacterial – ozone destroys bacteria and
promotes healing.
 Heat producing – warmth created in the superficial tissues of
the skin.
 Vasodilation – creating an erythema as there is an increase in
blood circulation.
 Mild soothing effect on nerve endings.
 Increases lymphatic circulation.
 Astringent effect of tightening pores.
Method of application
1. After cleansing and skin analysis, apply a thin layer of oxygenating
cream over the face. This will increase the amount of oxygen
present, which, when ionised, will create more ozone for an
enhanced effect.
2. Apply a layer of gauze over the oxygenating cream.
3. Select the appropriate electrode and insert firmly into the holder.
Turn the machine on checking the intensity control is at zero.
4. Apply the electrode to the skin and gradually turn up the intensity
to suit the client tolerance (keep electrode moving at all times).
5. Use small circular movements and cover the whole of the face.
The intensity may need to be adjusted over more bony parts
(forehead).
6. Continue working in circular movements paying particular attention
to any problem areas, for 5-7 minutes.
7. On completion of treatment turn the intensity gradually to zero,
remove the electrode from the client’s face and turn the machine
off.
Health and safety
A shock can be caused easily when using high frequency current. To
prevent this, ensure that all jewellery is removed, metal sections of
couches and trolleys are covered and you place and remove the
electrode to and from the skin correctly.
Indirect high frequency
This method is also referred to as a Viennese Massage, whereby the
client holds the saturator in their hands and the therapist is part of the
circuit. The current flows through the saturator and charges the client
while the therapist massages their skin. The current is transferred from
the client’s face to the therapist’s hands, creating a warming and deeply
relaxing effect.
This treatment improves dry, sluggish and dehydrated skin and
promotes relaxation of tense clients.
Method of application
1. This treatment is performed at the point in the facial where you
would normally massage. Lightly cover the saturator in talc (to
avoid slip) and give it to the client to hold. Ensure they hold one
hand on the glass electrode and one on the black saturator.
2. Apply a massage medium to the client’s skin.
3. Ensure all intensity dials are set to zero and turn the machine on.
4. Place one hand on the client’s face, turn the machine up slightly
and begin to massage.
5. Turn up the intensity to the client’s tolerance level and place your
other hand on the client’s skin.
6. Perform the full facial massage for 15-20 minutes, without losing
contact on the client’s skin at any point, otherwise a shock will be
felt by the client.
7. Warmth will begin to be felt by the client and therapist; erythema
will be present on the client’s skin.
8. On completion of the massage, remove one hand from the client,
turn the intensity down to zero and switch the machine off.
Remove the other hand only when the machine is off.
9. Take the saturator from the client’s hands and remove the excess
massage medium.
Galvanic
Galvanic treatments use a direct (constant) current. This current flows in
one direction only and has polarity. Two electrodes are required to
complete the circuit; one electrode is negatively charged (-) called the
cathode while the other is positively charged (+) and called the anode.
The inactive electrode is held by the client and the active electrode is
applied to the skin by the therapist. The active electrode can be positive
or negative (the anode or cathode).The polarity of the electrodes
depends on the setting on the galvanic unit.
There are two methods of galvanic to the face and these have different
effects:
 Desincrustation – always performed under the negative pole.
This is a deep cleansing treatment; used to remove the build up of
sebum and skin blockages and soften the skin.
 Iontophoresis –this treatment uses specially manufactured
products which are repelled into the skin using appropriate
electrodes.
Specific contra indications to galvanism
1.
2.
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5.
6.
7.
Lack of tactile sensation
Metal plates and pins
Excessive dental work
Acne rosacea
Pregnancy
Hypersensitive skin or highly vascular
Highly nervous client
Precautions
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Check for contra indications
Remove all jewellery from the client
Perform skin sensitivity tests – thermal and tactile
Ensure lint/gauze is folded without any creases to prevent
concentration of current
Lint/gauze and sponge pocket must be evenly damp, not wet.
Ensure the chosen product is applied evenly on the face.
Turn the intensity up slowly and watch the milliamp reading for a
lowering of the skin’s resistance
Turn the current down slowly on completion of the treatment.
Dangers of galvanic current
 Burns – there is danger of burns if the galvanic current is applied
incorrectly. Ensure there is plenty of product on the client’s face
during treatment, that the current intensity is correct for the client’s
skin and that you keep the active electrode moving on the skin at
all times.
 Shock – there is a danger of shock with galvanic current. Ensure
the intensity is adjusted slowly and smoothly and not increased
beyond a safe level. Do not lift electrodes off the skin without the
intensity being turned down to zero first. Also be aware of the
skin’s resistance as this may suddenly drop causing the intensity
to increase.
Desincrustation
In desincrustation treatment the negative cathode (-) is the active
electrode and placed on the client’s skin while the positive anode (+)
is the inactive (indifferent) electrode and is given to the client to hold
to complete the circuit. An electrolyte solution is placed on the skin.
Under the cathode (-) an alkali, sodium hydroxide, is produced
which will have the effect of softening sebum, releasing blockages
and deep cleansing the pores.
Effects of desincrustation
 Alkali (sodium hydroxide) reaction is produced which destroys
the acid mantle
 Deep cleansing
 Increased cell renewal
 Increased circulation
 Increased waste removal
Iontophoresis
Iontophoresis means the “movement of ions”. The treatment is based on
the principles that like charges repel and opposite charges attract. A
wide range of products are available for various skin conditions and are
chosen according to the active ingredients found within it. These
products contain ions which carry either negative or positive charges. A
direct current is applied to the face and the electrodes are used to repel
ions of the active ingredients into the skin. It is normally performed at the
end of the facial with the active elements remaining in the skin and
continues to be active for up to 8 hours.
The introduction of active substances into the skin by iontophoresis is
quicker and more intensive in effect and results in deeper penetration
than by manual application. The polarity used to introduce these
products into the skin is normally the positive pole (anode) as the active
substances are usually positively charged.
Effects of iontophoresis
 Hydrochloric acid is formed which restores normal skin balance
(acid reaction)
 Tightening and firming effect on the skin
 Increase in cell metabolism
 Increase in blood circulation
Treatment procedure
1. Cleanse skin so it is free from make-up and grease.
2. Check for skin sensitivity- thermal using hot and cold test tubes
and tactile using sharp and soft.
3. Check that the intensity control is at zero and the polarity is set on
the negative pole.
Select the appropriate electrodes and plug them into the machine
4. Select the appropriate electrodes and plug them into the machine.
Secure the dampened gauze to the active electrode (cathode (-)).
5. Place a dampened cover around the inactive electrode (anode (+))
and give it to the client to hold.
6. Apply a thin layer of desincrustation gel over the clients face.
7. Explain the sensation to the client and ask her to report any
discomfort.
8. Place the cathode on the client’s skin (cheek or neck area) and
switch on. Turn the current up slowly; moving the electrode on the
face continually. Very low current is needed, up to a maximum of
1.5mA. This must be within the client’s tolerance.
9. Adjust the intensity according to the client’s tolerance turning up
and down very slowly.
10.
Move the electrode slowly over the face and neck using
circular movements for up to 7 minutes.
11.
At the end of the treatment turn the intensity down very
slowly and switch off with electrode still in contact with the face.
12.
Take the electrode off the face. Remove any remaining gel
off the face with warm water and sponges.
13.
Continue with facial routine, massage, mask and tone. Direct
high frequency can be combined with facial galvanic treatments; it
would be performed before the facial massage. The active roller
electrodes and plug them into the machine, again ensure the
intensity control is set at zero.
14.
Select the active roller electrodes and plug them into the
machine, again ensure the intensity control is set at zero. Change
the polarity to positive on the machine as the gel is positively
charged.
15.
Give the covered inactive electrode to the client to hold.
16.
Apply the chosen gel (according to client’s skin type) thinly
and evenly over the face and neck.
17.
Place one roller on to the client’s skin, switch on the machine
and turn up the current slowly until a warmth or tingling sensation
is felt, then place the other roller on the other side of the face. It is
the tolerance of the client which dictates the intensity, the
maximum being 0.5mA
18.
Move the rollers over the face without breaking contact with
the skin and making sure the rollers do not touch each other.
Maintain an even pressure and slow, rhythmical movement. Work
for up to 5 minutes.
19.
Remove one roller and turn the current down slowly and
switch off the current before removing the other roller.
20.
It is not necessary to remove the product from the skin;
however, excess sticky gel should be removed. The active
ingredient will remain active on the skin for up to 8 hours. Do not
apply make-up for 8 hours.
21.
Clean the electrodes – wash them with hot water and
detergent, dry and wipe with surgical spirit.
Vacuum Suction
Next to massage, vacuum suction is one of the oldest treatments known
and evidence is available to show that it dates back as far as Egyptian
times. Vacuum suction treatment is a simulation of the manual massage
movement of cupping. This is applied by means of a machine, which
consists of an electrically driven vacuum pump connected via a flexible
tube to a glass cup (ventouse). The degree of suction created is set by
an intensity control and indicated by a vacuum gauge. You must ensure
the vacuum is not excessive, that is, the tissue lifted into the ventouse
should not exceed 20%.
The vacuum suction machine works by mechanically stimulating the
lymphatic system and increasing the flow of lymph towards the lymph
nodes for drainage. Glass cups/ventouses are placed over the skin, a
vacuum is then created and the tissue raises up into the ventouse. As
the ventouse is then moved towards the lymph nodes the rate of blood
and lymph flow is increased. Vacuum suction treatment enhances
manual massage and improves the appearance of the skin.
Effects of vacuum suction
 Increases blood circulation
 Increases lymphatic circulation and the removal of waste
 It produces vasodilation giving an erythema and improving skin
tone
 It aids desquamation
 Loosens blockages and comedones,cleansing the pores
 Improves overall skin condition
Contra indications
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Delicate sensitive skin
Loose crepey skin
Pustular acne
Areas of broken capillaries
Bruising, undiagnosed swelling
Sunburn/windburn
Method of application
1. Cleanse the skin, steam can be applied.
2. Apply a lubricating product (massage oil) to the skin for slip and
glide.
3. Insert the correct ventouse into the applicator
4. Check the intensity dial is set at zero and turn the machine on
5. Test the machine on the back of your hand to ensure no more than
20% of the ventouse is filled with raised skin
6. Starting at the neck, place the ventouse on the client’s skin and
glide to the nearest set of lymph nodes
7. Break the suction before lifting the ventouse off the skin (use the
release hole)
8. Move on to the next stroke; overlap the previous stroke until the
area is covered. Repeat up to 3 times depending upon the skin
reaction
9. Continue until the whole face has been covered; this should take
approximately 10 minutes
10.
Change the ventouse, depending on the area where you are
working
11.
Remove the oil and continue facial treatment as normal
12.
Wash the ventouse in hot water and detergent
Electro muscle stimulator (EMS)
Faradic
The electro muscle stimulator or EMS is a treatment which stimulates
the superficial facial muscles. It is used to improve facial contours and
loss of muscle tone; it can also be used as a preventative to delay the
visible signs of ageing. The facial electrode consists of a plastic or
rubber holder, which contains both the active and the inactive
electrode. It is placed on the motor point of the facial muscles and
used to stimulate groups of facial muscles rather than individual ones.
EMS uses a low frequency, interrupted direct current to perform a
muscle contraction. The client will feel the muscles contracting and
relaxing, this should be explained to the client during the consultation.
Effects of faradic
 Increases blood circulation and skin colour
 Improves muscle tone and the general condition of the muscle.
This results in improvement of the contours of the face
 The pumping action increases the supply of blood to the skin
and muscle, thus bringing nutrients and removing waste
products. This results in improved condition of the skin and
muscle
 Stimulates sensory nerve endings
 Can be used as a preventative measure to delay the signs of
ageing
Contra indications
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Highly strung or nervous client
Hypersensitive skins
Sinus congestion
High blood pressure
Headaches or migraine
Epilepsy
Diabetes
Excessive dental work, metal plates or pins
Method of application
1.
2.
3.
4.
Cleanse the skin.
Skin sensitivity test – tactile using sharp and soft
Steam to warm the muscles
Ensure all the intensity dials are set to zero and turn the machine
on
5. Dampen discs with saline/collagen gel and ensure they remain
moist throughout the treatment
6. Place the electrode in position on the client’s skin when there is no
contraction present. Turn the intensity up slowly during the surge
until a prickling sensation is felt; continue increasing the intensity
until a contraction is obtained. The client must tell you if the setting
becomes uncomfortable
7. Hold the electrode over each set of muscles for 6 contractions
8. Always turn the intensity down to zero before moving onto a new
muscle group
9. Treat both sides of the face equally; treatment time is
approximately 10-15 minutes
10.
After EMS has been performed, manually massage the
client’s face to break down any lactic acid which may have
accumulated in the muscles during treatment
Reasons for poor contractions
 The intensity is too low (not enough current to initiate a
contraction)
 The discs are too dry or dirty (wet, clean discs are better
conductors of current)
 Grease on the skin (acts as a barrier to the current)
 Incorrect positioning of the electrode
 Poor contact between the skin and electrode
Important
 Talk to the client and reassure her during the treatment.
 Always turn up the intensity during the surge period.
 Do not over treat as this will cause muscle fatigue.
Micro- lance
A trained beauty therapist is able to remove milia with a
disposable/sterile micro-lance. The process of micro-lancing involves the
use of a small sterilised lance to gently scrape the top layer of the
epidermis to unblock congestion in the sebaceous glands.
Wearing gloves, the therapist should clean the area with an antiseptic
wipe and stretch the skin tightly. Gently scrape over the milia until the
skin is slightly broken. Using a rocking and rolling technique with the
fingers the milia is pushed from either side and released. Wipe over the
area with an antiseptic lotion. Occasionally the area can scab over.
Advise the client to leave the scab to heal and shed naturally, as picking
the scab could lead to scarring.
A micro-lance can also be used to release in-grown hairs.
Micro-lances should always be in a sealed, pre-sterilised packet. A new
micro-lance should be used for each client and disposed of correctly
after use (sharps box).