95 Queens Park Parade
Kingsthorpe
NN2 6LR
Tel: 01604 712070
Veiled/Yemen Chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus) CARE SHEET
The Veiled chameleon also known as the Yemen chameleon is a relatively large chameleon species
originally from Saudi Arabia and Yemen in the Middle East. In its natural range, the Veiled
Chameleon lives in coastal mountain slopes, which experience significant rainfall, and some live in
slightly more arid “wadis” with year-round water and vegetation.
Veiled Chameleons are a colourful species, which are easily recognized by the large casque or helmet
on the top of the head (smaller in females). Males can reach a total length of as much as 2 feet and
females of approximately 18 inches. Adults of this species exhibit colouration including different
shades of green, orange, yellow, blue, browns and black with a combination of strips and spotted
patterns.
Veiled Chameleons can be sexed from the day they hatch. Veiled Chameleon males are born with a
small nub on their back foot called a tarsal spur that females lack. Veiled Chameleon males of this
species tend to exhibit more colours and on average live 6-8 years. Females of this species typically
show less vibrant colours and live on average 3-4 years because even when not bred, they will
produce infertile clutches of eggs, which take a lot of energy.
They are not an ideal as a first reptile pet as they are susceptible to a few problems, need daily
attention and therefore require thorough investigation into appropriate husbandry and diet before
purchase. Also beware in purchasing a female due to the problems they get with regular egg laying.
HABITAT: The aim is to provide as far as possible a recreated wild habitat. This should be to
encourage natural behaviour, maintain good health and minimise any stress associated with
captivity.
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Vivarium Most chameleon species are fairly solitary and intolerant of other individuals being
housed with them. Thus one ADULT animal per cage is the general rule. Though some
people successfully house a male and female together, others just introduce the male to the
female when she is showing receptive colours for breeding. Chameleons are arboreal (i.e.
climbers) so a tall vivarium is required; the smallest size suitable is 24 x 24 x 36 inches/ 60 x
60 x90 cm. It is important that the vivarium has suitable ventilation as the air can become
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stagnant when the vivarium is being sprayed daily. Without ventilation the chameleon can
develop respiratory problems.
Heating: Yemen chameleons require a daytime air temperature of 20-25*C with a basking
area of 30-35*C. A ceramic heater can be used but as they give off no light the chameleon
may be reluctant to bask below it so a heat bulb is better. Heat mats are not suitable. At
night, it is necessary for them to experience at least a 10-15*C drop in temperature with all
lights turned off, the vivarium can be allowed to drop as low as 12*C, therefore in a normal
house, no additional heating is required at night. This allows better resting and simulates
their natural habitat where temperatures drop significantly at night. Wire mesh guards
should be fitted over all heat sources used within the vivarium to prevent thermal burns.
Branches should be positioned to enable the lizard to climb and bask in this area.
Permanently position a thermometer at the basking area and at the cold end to be able to
regularly monitor this temperature. Never assume the temperature on the thermostat is
accurate.
Vivarium Humidity/Water 50 – 60%. In the wild, chameleons lick dew and rain droplets off of
leaves, or are attracted to moving water. This means that in captivity, special watering
techniques need to be used to keep chameleons healthy and hydrated as they will rarely
drink from a dish. Drip systems are the most common form of chameleon watering system.
They generally consist of a container of a water container that sits above the enclosure. A
plastic tube with a flow control clamp runs from the water container and into the chameleon
cage. Water slowly drips out of the end of the plastic tube. Pre-made drip systems are
available and generally include some sort of adjustment to control the rate at which water
drips from the tube. Other, simpler drip systems can also be used. A tub of water with a hole
in the bottom made by a drawing pin works just as well suspended from the ceiling of the
enclosure. If a drip system is used in a chameleon cage, care needs to be taken to prevent
the cage from becoming too wet. This is easily accomplished by placing a container inside
the cage to catch the dripping water. Make sure the chameleon can't tip it over. Covering
the container with mesh will prevent the chameleon or crickets from falling in. The water
can then be emptied every day. Another method of watering your chameleon is to simply
mist the inside of the enclosure several times a day. Chameleons will eagerly lick water off
plants, as well as the sides of the enclosure. With Veiled Chameleons you should mist twice
a day and have a drip system going for about 10 minutes at a time at least once a day. If no
drip system is used increase the spraying to several times a day. After a while you may find
the Chameleon will drink directly from drips from the water spray. Some Veileds rarely drink
water, however, that does not mean it should not be available regularly.
Chameleons like clean warm drinking water. Pre boiled semi-cooled water or mineral water
(warmed up with boiling water) is best. If using tap water leave it to stand for a while to
allow chlorine etc. to disburse. Chameleons with in adequate access to drinking water can
develop kidney problems and gout.
Furniture: The cage should be furnished with branches of different diameters so that the
chameleon can easily navigate the entire cage. Live plants will provide good hiding places
and add to the aesthetic and humidity of the enclosure. Because some chameleons are
known for eating vegetable matter, only non-toxic plants should be planted in their
enclosures. The most common choices among chameleon breeders are Pothos, hibiscus,
Umbrella plants or Ficus benjamani, Ficus "Alii", and Ficus natidia. Plastic plants can also be
used with or instead of real plants and have the advantage that they are easily cleaned.
Substrate: Because of the chameleons very sticky tongue lizards they are at a high risk of
ingesting substrate which may lead to gut impaction. The most hygienic and safe option is
newspaper or paper towel.
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U.V. LIGHT PROVISION: U.V.B provision on a daily basis for 10-14hours is required to allow
the chameleons to produce Vitamin D to ensure they absorb adequate calcium from their
diet to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). U.V lights will need changing on a regular
basis depending on manufacturer’s recommendations, usually every six months. They should
be placed no further than 30cm (12 inches) from the animals to ensure is effective.
CLEANING & DISINFECTION:
Cleaning is not a replacement for disinfection. Many reptile bacteria can become opportunistic
pathogens i.e. cause disease and being in a closed environment a build-up of parasites can occur.
Disinfection is much more effective after thorough cleaning to remove dried organic debris. A
reputable disinfectant (such as F10) should then be used as per instructions. Spot clean every time a
motion is passed, with the vivarium fully cleaned and disinfected at least once every month.
DIET:
The Veiled chameleon feeds mainly on insects, commercially produced black and brown crickets,
locusts, mealworms and wax-worms. Crickets and locusts should be the main livefood offered whilst
mealworms and wax-worms can be offered for variety. The Yemen chameleon will also take some
vegetation such as watercress, rocket, dandelion and grated carrot. Other vegetation can be offered
but they seem to prefer soft leaves.
Gut loading is the term applied to feeding insects prior to feeding to the lizards. This is done to
improve the nutrition and hydration of the insects fed by adding commercial preparations such as
VetArk Professional Bug Grub/Grub Grub or a mix of vegetables. It takes approximately 12-18 hours
for the food to travel through the insects’ guts so it needs to have been fed to the insect in this time
window for the chameleon to benefit. The food should also be dusted with a good quality
vitamin/mineral supplement before being fed. Be aware that when dusting crickets or locusts which
are not eaten within a few minutes of dusting the supplement is often shaken off. The supplement
we recommend is Nutrobal from VetArk. This should be done daily for juveniles whilst reducing to 23 times weekly for adults. Breeding females will also need additional calcium supplementation on
the days they are not receiving Nutrobal. Be aware that loose insects in the vivarium can cause
damage to the lizard through bites, so either feed in a separate container or always try to keep any
left in to a small number and if any are left in to provide an alternative food source e.g. veggies or a
bug grub/gel.
COMMON DISEASES:
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Metabolic bone disease (MBD): due to inadequate vitamin D and calcium, causes
weakness difficulty in eating as can’t use tongue, soft bones, pathological fractures, fatal
if untreated.
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Hypovitaminosis A: Low vitamin A again related to diet. Usually eye and respiratory
problems, can be serious and difficult to resolve (especially eye problems).
Female Egg binding: Stop eating, calcium deficiency (MBD), weakness, fatty liver disease
and often fatal.
Intestinal Parasitism – loss of condition, loss of appetite, intestinal prolapse, potentially
fatal.
Gut Impaction - commonly with substrate from vivarium. Loss of appetite, dehydration,
constipation, potentially death.
Skin abscesses, tail injuries (often from bites from other chameleons or crickets).
Retained skin shed: On feet, and mouth, eye and cloaca with potential secondary
abscesses.
Kidney disease/Gout: Weakness, inappetant, joint swelling. Can be related to kidney
infection, inappropriate husbandry or inadequate provision of water. Fatal if treatment
isn’t started early in the disease.
We recommend a faecal parasite screen is undertaken at the vets as a routine measure and for all
new additions. If your chameleon becomes unwell, we would advise you seek prompt veterinary
advice, chameleons especially, can deteriate quickly in contrast to other reptile species.