Chameleon Care Sheet
There are more than 160 species of chameleons native to a wide area from sub-Saharan Africa through
southern Europe, the Middle East, southern India, Sri Lanka, some islands in the Indian Ocean and
Madagascar. Chameleons are found in tropical and mountain rain forests, savannas and some deserts
and steppes. While most are arboreal (tree dwelling) there are a few that are partially or mostly terrestrial
(ground dwelling). Uniquely adapted for visual hunting they are known for their long sticky tongues and
separately mobile, stereoscopic eyes. The two most common species seen in the pet trade are the Veiled
Chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus) and the Jackson’s Chameleon (Chamaeleo jacksonii) therefore this
page will focus on caring for these two species. For specific heat, humidity and lighting requirements of
other species please contact our office during regular business hours to speak with a technician.
Diet
Veiled chameleons are omnivorous reptiles; all other chameleons are insectivorous. The diet for all
chameleons should include the animal items listed below. Veiled chameleons require both plant and
insect items.
Animal Items*
Isopods (pill bugs)
Waxworms
Beetles
Grasshoppers
Crickets & Mealworms may be fed, but require
gut-loading 2 days prior to feeding.
*Never offer scorpions or lightning bugs.
Moths
Grubs
Pinky Mice
Plant Items*
Beet Greens
Grape Leaves
Parsley
Dandelion
(Greens & Flowers)
Bok Choy
Kale
Spinach
Chard
Endive
Rose Petals
Hibiscus
(Flowers and Leaves)
Mulberry Leaves
Cilantro
Turnip Greens
Collard Greens
Escarole
Mustard Greens
*For veiled chameleons only
When feeding live insects, only provide as many insects as the animal can eat in a few hours. Vitamin
supplements are unnecessary, and in fact are often harmful. Clean drinking water must be provided at all
times. Veiled chameleons will often drink from a shallow water bowl if an air stone (for fish aquariums) is
used to roil the water and will benefit from occasional misting of the leaves in the cage. All other
chameleons will require a constant drip of water on leaves that are easily accessible.
Temperature and Lighting
Daytime ambient temperature (everywhere in the enclosure) for most chameleons should be maintained
around 78-84 degrees F. Nighttime ambient temperature should be maintained at 72-78 degrees F. One
exception are Jackson’s chameleons which should be maintained at 68-74 degrees F during the day and
room temperature at night.
Chameleons require a good source of UVB light for 10-12 hours every day. Fluorescent lamps with a
strong UVB output, such as Repti-sun 8.0 (ZooMed) or ReptiGlo 8.0 (Exoterra) are appropriate. A
mercury vapor lamp, such as Power Sun by ZooMed or Mega Ray at www.reptileUV.com provides both
heat and UVB. The bulb should be within 18 inches of the animal's body, with no glass or plastic between
them. An incandescent spot bulb should be shined in one part of the cage (6-8 hours per day) to create a
warmer area for the chameleon to bask in.
Housing
It is best to house chameleons individually, as fighting with cage mates can occur between all
combinations of sexes. If breeding is desired, the male and female should be placed so they can see
each other (but not contact each other) until the female is receptive. The female is receptive when she
exhibits light colored rings on her body and spends time on the side of her cage near the male.
When choosing a type of cage to house the chameleon in, it is best not to choose a glass enclosure.
Chameleons can get their tongues stuck on the glass which can result in injury. Mesh or screen cages
usually prevent this problem.
Recommended cage substrates include coarse gravel, dry orchid bark, forest mulch, and folded paper.
The majority of intestinal impactions occur due to sand (including Calci-Sand), crushed walnut shell, or
other substrates composed of small, equal-sized particles; therefore, these are not recommended.
Indoor-outdoor carpeting is also not recommended due to the possibility of carpet threads constricting
toes or being ingested. All chameleons need plenty of hiding places and branches for climbing. Live
plants (such as pothos or ficus) or artificial plants should be used. Live plants also are beneficial because
they increase the ambient humidity in the enclosure.
Gut-Loading
Gut-loading is the practice of feeding insects a diet high in calcium, protein, and other nutrients prior to
offering the insects to reptiles and amphibians. Domestic crickets and meal worms should be fed a
commercial, grain-based calcium enriched cricket diet such as those made by Flukers or ZooMed, or a
diet consisting of four parts chicken or turkey starter mash and one part calcium carbonate for two or
three days before offering them to your pet. The crickets should also be offered water in a shallow dish or
wet sponge. Gut-loading beyond 2-3 days is not beneficial, and can actually decrease the life expectancy
of the insects.
© ORANGE GROVE ANIMAL HOSPITAL, SVG, PC 2014