Caring for your new Bunny
Congratulations on your new Bunny.
Here are some basic tips and information to help you and your bunny.
Rabbits make great pets and can easily be trained to be an indoor pet.
Harnesses can also be purchased online or in pet supply shops.
To keep your Rabbit cuddly and tame it is important to handle it as much as possible.
The more you do the better companion it will make.
A rabbit left alone in its cage without being handled for long periods of time will become ‘feisty’ and scratch when
picked up.
The lifespan of a rabbit is approximately 6-14 years. (obviously this also depends on the environment your bunny is
kept in).
FEEDING
Your Bunny will require food and water every day.
To start with do not make drastic changes to your Bunny’s diet as it can upset their tummy and make them very ill.
Introduce new foods gradually. (i.e a new one each week refer below)
Celery, brussel sprouts, carrots and carrot tops. Outer cabbage leaves, parsley, bok choy, alfalfa sprouts, kale, clover,
endive. Rose leaves, strawberry leaves. Wheat grass, broccoli leaves. Dandilions.
To start with feed your Bunny pellets, grass and hay. Your bunny’s current diet has included celery, carrot and
broccoli – TRY TO KEEP THE DIET UNCHANGED FOR THE FIRST WEEK IN THEIR NEW HOME to prevent tummy upset
and stress.
A growing bunny can eat a lot of pellets however from about 6 months of age your bunny should only be fed
approximately 1 cup of pellets per day. This prevents obesity.
You can gradually introduce new fruits and vegetables BUT NEVER LETTUCE.
Foods with high sugar content such as fruits should be fed as a treat to avoid health problems and obesity in your
rabbit.
Your rabbit will need hay/straw regularly. This helps with digestive issues and helps to wear down their teeth and
avoids dental problems. You can’t beat daily grass to help keep you bunny healthy.
Fresh water EVERY DAY is vital.
In hot weather you will need to check the water regularly as rabbits suffer heat stroke easily and will die quickly. A
frozen bottle of water or ice cubes can be placed in the cage for them to lie against or lick to cool down. OR bring
your rabbit inside away from the heat on extreme hot days.
HOUSING
Your Bunny needs a roomy cage with protection from rain, wind and sun AND preditors such as dogs, cats and foxes.
It is also a good idea to protect them from wild rabbits which may carry disease. Ideally the cage should have a
hutched area for protection and a ‘run’ area to sun itself and eat grass. If you do not have a ‘run’ attached to your
cage – puppy play pens make great safe area for your bunnies to exercise and eat grass safely.
It is strongly recommended you protect you rabbit from mozzies and flies using flyscreen on your cage. Another
alternative can be to keep your rabbit indoors in the evening/early morning when mozzies are most active.
Cleaning your cage depends on what it is made of but the best way is to hose it and allow to dry in the sun. Cleaning
chemicals could be used sparingly but may irritate your rabbit.
Change their toilet every second or third day. Perhaps clean daily when more than one rabbit occupy the cage.
During the summer months keep your cage in the shade to reduce heat stress on your rabbit. In extreme heat
conditions it is best for your rabbit to be inside in the cool.
Rabbits have a very active mind. Bird and cat toys can be great at keeping your rabbit entertained. Also cardboard
boxes, toilet rolls stuffed with hay and pine cones. Small tree branches make great chew toys and could save your
cage from being chewed.
GROOMING
Brushing your rabbit with a soft brush as often as you like decreases fur getting on your clothes and furniture and
allows your rabbit to bond with you.
Nails can be clipped using pet nail clippers but be careful not to go too short (it will make their nails bleed).
Lice and mite treatments are available from pet supply store although I have never experienced this problem. A
clean cage = a clean rabbit.
Rabbits do not like being washed and only wash if absolutely necessary. Ensure the rabbit is dried properly to
prevent a chill. Avoid bathing if possible.
VACCINATIONS
Calicivirus vaccinations can be given at 10-12weeks and then a booster every 10months. Calicivirus is spread by
insects and will be fatal. My understanding is the cost is approximately $15 for the vaccination but please check with
your vet.
Myxomatosis is spread by mosquito and is also deadly to rabbits. Unfortunately vaccine is not available in Australia
so it is vital to protect your bunny from mozzies.
PARASITES
Worm, lice, mite and flea treatments are available from pet supply shops.
Rabbits are not susceptible to heart worm.
DESEXING
Rabbits reach sexual maturity at approximately 4-6months of age and can be desexed from this age.
Desexing can help keep your rabbit can make a ‘calmer’ pet and reduces health risks in females in late adulthood.
My understanding is that desexing a rabbit is similar costing to a cat – contact your vet for more info. Female rabbits
can become ‘moody’ when they reach breeding age (5-6months) sometimes desexing is sometimes the only way to
calm them. Another alternative is to mate them.
The above information is advice based on personal experience and research. Ultimately the type of care you provide your rabbit with is your
decision and your responsibility. This is only a basic guide. More information can be found on google or you tube to assist you. Always contact
your vet for serious health concerns. Once your rabbit is in its new home under your care, it becomes your responsibility.
ENJOY YOUR NEW BUNNY
It was wormed on 25/10/13 and will be due for worm treatment again in 3 months
Flea and Mite treatment was administered on 25/10/13 and due again in 6 weeks.
THANK YOU
Bellver Bunnies
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