NVQ Level 2 Beauty Therapy
Unit B4
Facial Skincare
Sarah-Jayne Coward
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Skincare Services
A professional facial can help improve the appearance and condition of a clients skin by the
application of appropriate skincare services and products. The facial skin services the beauty
therapist offers will include:
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Consultation and skin analysis
Skin cleansing
Specialized skincare services
Manual massage of the face, neck and shoulders
Application of the face masks
The beauty therapist cannot change the underlying skin type, which is genetically determined,
but they can keep the physiological characteristics of each type in check.
Treat
Improve skin condition
Relaxation
Why have a
Facial?
Special Occasion
Sarah-Jayne Coward
Professional advice
Maintanence
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Cleansing the skin
The cleansing procedure is an essential for all facial treatments. Even if a client has arrived
with no make-up on, this is always the first step for any facial.
The aim of cleansing is to improve the efficiency of the skin functioning, allow the therapist to
analyse the skin accurately and to remove:
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All traces of make-up
Surface dirt and bacteria
Pollution from the environment
Top layer of dead skin cells
Congestion in pores
Cleansers
There are many different types of cleansers to suit different skin types. Dirt and bacteria get
trapped by the natural oils in our skin, so they have to be removed by emulsifying them with
detergent or dissolving them with more oil.
Most cleansers are mixtures of oil and water. Which do not mix, so a third ingredient- an
emulsifier- is added, which stabilises the oils and forms an emulsion. Depending on the amount
of water present, the cleanser can vary from liquid to semi-solid.
Cleansers
Cleansing milk
Characteristics
This is an oil-in-water emulsion and can have
up to 90% water. It is a milky liquid most
suitable for normal to dry skins which are
prone to sensitivity.
Cleansing lotion
Recommended for normal to combination
skins. They can also be used to treat oily and
congested skins as some contain alcohol, which
reduces sebum.
Cleansing creams
Vary in texture and consistency and are mainly
water-in-oil emulsions. Suitable for dry and
mature skins.
Liquefying cleanser
This cleanser melts quickly on the skin and
removes make-up quickly and efficiently,
which is ideal for skins which require minimum
amount of manipulation.
Foaming cleansers or facial gel
Usually contain a mild detergent which foam
when mixed with water. Additional ingredients
are added to suit different skin types except
very dry and sensitive skins. Best for
oily/combination skins.
Usually lightweight cleanses which quickly
transform from a solid balm to a fluid. Suitable
for all skin types except oily.
Cleansing balms
Sarah-Jayne Coward
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Cleansing bars
Eye make-up removers
These are a milder alternative to soap which
don’t affect the skins acidic pH of 5.5-5.6.
Suitable for normal to oily skin types which
aren’t sensitive.
Specifically designed to remove eye make-up
without irritating the fine skin around the
eyes. They can be oil based- which removes
waterproof mascara, wax or oil-based eye
shadow. Non-oil eye make-up removers are
suitable for sensitive eyes, contact lease
wearers or clients with false lashes.
Superficial and deep cleansing
Superficial cleanse- the aim of this cleanse is to remove surface make-up, dirt and grease.
Deep cleanse- This follows the superficial cleanse and is a more thorough cleanse which gets
beeper into the skins surface.
Toning
Cleansing is then followed by toning. Toning lotions remove all traces of the cleanser and grease
from the skin. Toning has the following effect on the skin:
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Products a cooling effect on the skin
Has a tightening effect on the skin
Restores the acidic pH balance of the skin
Types of toners:
Toner
Skin Fresheners
Skin tonics
Astringents
Sarah-Jayne Coward
Characteristics
These are the mildest toners which
contain little to no alcohol. They
consist mainly of purified water,
with floral extracts such as rose
water for a mild toning effect
Slightly stronger toning lotions.
Many contain a small amount of
astringent such as orange flower
water.
The strongest of toning lotions with
high proportions of alcohol. They
contain antiseptic ingredients such
as witch hazel or tea tree this
reduces the growth of bacteria and
promote skin healing.
Who is it for
Dry, delicate skin
Sensitive skin
Mature skin
Normal skin
Oily skin with no sensitivity
Mild acne in young skin
DO NOT USE ON DRY SENSITIVE
SKINS
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There are several ways to apply a toner.
Cotton wool- Toner is applied to two damp pieces of cotton wool and then gently wiped
upwards and outwards over the neck and face.
Vaporiser (spray)- by using a vaporiser will create a fine mist of toning lotion over the skin.
Always protect the eyes by placing cotton wool over them. Hold the vaporiser about 30cm from
the skin, directing across the skin and spray in sweeping movements. Best to use on male
clients.
Gauze- Soak the gauze in the toning lotion and apply over the face. Be sure to cut a hole in the
gauze for the nose and cover the eyes with cotton wool pads. Is the most expensive way to tone
so is usually used for luxury facials.
After toning, the skin should be blotted with a soft facial tissue
Moisturising
Moisturisers are the final stage of a facial priding a protective barrier.
The natural moisture level of the skin is constantly being disturbed. The application of a
cosmetic moisturiser helps to maintain the natural oil and moisture balance by locking moisture
into the tissues, offering protection and hydration.
Protects the skin from
softens skin
Environmental damage
Provides barrier/base for
Plumps skin tissue
with moisture
Benefits of
moisturising
Make up
can contain SPF’s to
protect skin from UV damage
Different ones to suit skin types
Day Moisturises
Lotions
Creams
Contain up to 85-90% water and 10-15% oil.
Contain 70-85% water and 15-30% oil. They
They are a light, liquid formulation and are
have a thicker consistency and cannot be
ideal to use under make up. They can be used
poured. They can be used for mature and dry
for oily, young combination, dehydrated and
skins.
normal skins.
Night Moisturises
An emulsion with a higher proportion of oil. In the evening the surrounding air is dry and warm,
which encourages water loss from the skin; oils seals the surface of the skin, preventing water
loss.
Sarah-Jayne Coward
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Exfoliation and Extractions
Exfoliation
The natural process of losing dead skin from the skins surface is called desquamation.
Exfoliation is used within a facial to accelerate this process. It is carried out after cleansing and
toning the skin.
Removes dead skin cells
Fresh new cells are exposed
grease and debris from the
improving the appearance
skins surface.
of the skin
Benefits of
exfoliating
Moisturisers are more
Circulation is
effectively absorbed
mildly stimulated
Appearance of hyperpigmentation is improved
Caution with exfoliatiors:
Exfoliation is beneficial for most skin types, however avoid application to clients who have the
following
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Highly sensitive skins
Vascular skin disorders such as telangiectases or damaged broken veins in the areas of
application
Pustular, blemished skin
Types of exfoliators
Exfoliator
Biochemical skin peels
Characteristics
Contain AHA’s (Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids) which are
derived from fruits, milk and sugar cane and
applied to the skin as a face mask. The AHA’s
dissolve the dead skin cells and stimulate
circulation in the underlying skin.
These types of products product a
tingling/itching effect.
Pore grains
Most popular exfoliators. Have a cream or
liquid base which contain fine exfoliating
particals. This is gently massaged over the
skin.
Sarah-Jayne Coward
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Clay exfoliants
Gentle exfoliators with a clay base which is
applied like a face mask. The clay absorbs the
dead skin and sebum as it dries. The mask is
gently soaked away by the pads of the fingers.
Mechanical exfoliators
Also known as facial brushing. Softens and
cleanses the skin. The soft hair bristles remove
dead skin and sebum from the skins surface.
Be careful to avoid over-stimulating.
HOMECARE ADVICE
Clients are recommended to use and exfoliator in their homecare routine once a week for
normal to dry skins, and twice a week for oily skins. Introducing exfoliation into a skincare
routine will make any other products used more effective.
Steaming
Steaming the skin will produce a warming effect on the skin to achieve
both cleansing and stimulating.
The effects of steaming:
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Opens the pores
Blood flow and lymphatic circulation are stimulated
The surface cells of the epidermis are softened, which helps
desquamation
Helps dry and mature skins by stimulating sebaceous activity
Skin colour is improved
Steam is provided by an electric vapour unit. Distilled water is heated until it boils to create
steam.
The steam is applied as a fine mist over the face area. As the steam settles upon the skin it is
absorbed by the surface epidermal cells. These cells are softened and can be gently loosened
with an exfoliation service.
Sarah-Jayne Coward
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Vascular skin disorders
Claustrophobia
Respiratory problems
Excessive dilated capillaries
Contra-Indications to Steaming
Skin with reduced sensitivity
Diabetes
Rosacea
Steam application
Vapour unitGenerally the vapour unit will be at arm’s length from the clients face and will be applied for 10
minutes.
However, be aware that this may have to be adapted, for example, a sensitive skin will need a
larger application distance and a reduced time.
Towel steamIf a vapour unit is not available, you can use towel steaming as an alternative. Towels are
heated with clean hot water, or a specialized unit, and are applied to the skin. The towels
should not be too hot to handle or you could burn the client’s skin. As the towels cool, remove
and apply a new towel. Repeat for around 10 minutes.
Over-stimulation of the skin
Scalding caused by spitting
Caused by incorrect distance
from a faulty unit or over
Or duration
Contra-actions to
steaming
filling.
Discomfort caused by the steam being too near to the skin, leading
to breathing difficulties, or by treatment being applied for too long
Sarah-Jayne Coward
Page 8
Extractions
After exfoliating the skin, you may want to remove minor skin blemishes such as comedones’
(Blackheads). It is preferable to warm the tissue first as this softens the skin and relaxes the
openings of the skin that are blocked.
Comedone Extractors:
To use a comedone extractor, place the loop end of the extractor and
apply gentle pressure around the comedone.
Comedone removal by therapist:
A comedone can also be removed by the therapist. Wrap the pads of the index fingers with
tissue and apply a gentle pressure around the comedone. Use a ‘rock and roll’ movement to
draw the comedone out from the follicle.
Contra-actions of comedone removal:
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Skin bruising can occur if too much pressure is applied
Capillary damage could result if too much force is used when squeezing the comedone.
The surrounding blood capillaries can rupture, causing permanent skin damage.
Sterilization and disinfection
After using the stainless steel comedone extractor should be cleaned with an alcoholic
preparation and then sterilized in an autoclave
Sarah-Jayne Coward
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