SCHOOL OF HAIRDRESSING & APPLIED THERAPIES
NVQ Level 2 Beauty Therapy
B4 – Provide Facial Skin Care Treatment
Course Notes
Student Name: ____________________________
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Functions of the Skin
The skin has many functions. An easy way to remember them is by using the word
SHAPES.
S – Sensation
H – Heat Regulation
A – Absorption
P – Protection
E – Excretion
S - Secretion
S – Sensation - The skin contains sensory nerve endings that send
messages to the brain. These nerves respond to touch, pain, cold and
heat and allow us to recognise objects from their feel and touch.
H – Heat Regulation
The skin aids in regulating body temperature by sweating to cool
down when it is too hot and shivering when it is cold. The pores close
when shivering and the hairs stand on end, trap a layer of warm air
next to the skin and heat loss is prevented.
A – Absorption
The skin is largely waterproof and absorbs very little, although
certain substances (some creams and essential oils) are able to pass
through the basal layer. Ultra-violet rays from the sun penetrate
through the skin’s surface layers and activate a chemical found in the
skin called ergosterol, which changes into vitamin D, essential for
healthy bones and eye sight.
P – Protection
The acid mantle is a protective barrier that prevents bacteria and
germs entering the skin. The skin produces melanin (the pigment that
is commonly known as a suntan) as protection when too much UV light
damages the skin.
E – Excretion
The sweat glands secrete waste products and toxins directly onto
the skins surface. Sweat contains water, salts, urea and uric acid.
S – Secretion
Sebum and sweat are secreted onto the skins surface. Sebum is a
fatty surface secreted from the sebaceous gland and it helps to keep
the skin lubricated and soft. (Sweat and sebum together form the
acid mantle).
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The Acid Mantle
The oil form the sebaceous gland and acid from the sweat glands blend together to form
a film known as the acid mantle which covers entire body. This prevents attack from
harmful bacteria and fungi. The pH value of skin is between 5.5 – 5.6. Using products that
are too harsh for the skin will strip the protective pH acid mantle and could allow infection
in, causing damage.
Whether a substance or solution is acid, neutral or alkaline is indicated with a pH number.
Structure of the Skin
The Epidermis
The skin is a very large organ covering the whole of the body. The skin is one of the most
active organs of the body. The skin varies in thickness on different parts of the body (0.05
– 3mm). The skin is thinnest on the lips and eyelids which must be light and flexible. The
skin is thickest on the soles of the feet and palms of the hands where friction is needed
for gripping.
Client’s skin varies in colour, texture and sensitivity – it is these characteristics that make
each client unique.
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The skin can be divided into two distinct layers:The EPIDERMIS – the outer thinner layer.
The DERMIS – the inner thicker layer.
The SUBCUTANEOUS layer is attached to the underlying organs and tissues lies below
the dermis.
The Epidermis
The epidermis is the most superficial layer and is made up of five distinct layers.
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The five layers of the epidermis are:
1. Stratum Corneum.
Cornish
Cornified Layer
2. Stratum Lucidum.
Ladies
Clear Layer
3. Stratum Granulosum.
Grow
Granular Layer
4. Stratum Spinosum.
Special
Prickle Cell Layer
5. Stratum Germinativum.
Geraniums
Basal Layer
The cornified layer is made up of the:



Stratum Granulosum
Stratum Lucidum
Stratum Corneum
The malphigian layer is made up of the:


Stratum Germinativum
Stratum Spinosum
The Epidermis – The Malphigian Layer
Stratum Germinativum – single layer of columnar cells that rests on the
basal layer.
This separates the dermis and the epidermis. Cells divide by mitosis and push the older
cells forward. The process from reproduction to mitoisis lasts about six weeks. Star
shaped melanocytes are found which contain the pigment melanin, giving skin it’s colour.
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Stratum Spinosum - this is known as the prickle cell layer and is formed
of 2 to 6 rows of elongated cells.
Each rounded cell has short projections which make contact with neighbouring cells
giving a prickly appearance. Each cell has a nucleus and is filled with fluid and is capable
of mitotic division.
The Epidermis – The Cornified Layer

The cornified layer consists of three layers which are dying or dead due to the
process of KERATINISATION.

KERATINISATION is the process when cells change from living cells with a
nucleus (essential for growth and reproduction) to dead, cornified cells without a
nucleus.

The KERATINISED cells form a waterproof covering, preventing the penetration
of bacteria and protect the body from minor injury.
Stratum Lucidum – this layer consists of transparent cells which permit light to pass
through. There are 3 or 4 rows of flat dead cells which are filled with keratin (there is no
nuclei as the cells have undergone mitosis.
This layer is very shallow in facial skin but pronounced on soles of the feet and palms of
the hand and usually absent on hairy skin.
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Stratum Corneum – this layer consists of dead, flattened keratinised cells. This outer
layer of dead cells is continually being shed by a process known as DESQUAMATION.
Desquamation
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Melanocytes and Langerhan Cells
These are found in the germinative zone of the epidermis.
Melanocytes
These produce the pigment melanin giving skin its colour.
One melanocyte to ten germinative cell.
The amount of melanocytes varies according to race – white Caucasian has less and
black skin has more allowing less penetration of UV rays.
Carotene is also a pigment found in the epidermis (the amount lessens with the increase
of melanin production).
Langerhan Cells
These absorb and aid the removal of foreign bodies that have entered the skin. These
cells move from the epidermis to the dermis and enter the lymphatic system.
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The Dermis
The dermis is the deepest layer of the skin and its key functions are to provide
SUPPORT, STRENGTH and ELASTICITY.
The dermis consists of two layers:
•
•
The Papillary layer.
The Reticular layer
The Papillary layer.
The superficial papillary layer is made up of adipose connective tissue and is connected
to the underside of the epidermis by cone-shaped projections called dermal papillae.
The dermal papilla contains nerve endings and a network of blood and lymphatic
capillaries. The many dermal papillae of the papillary layer form indentations in the
overlying epidermis, giving it an irregular appearance.
The function of the papillary layer is to provide vital nourishment to the living layers of the
epidermis above.
The Deep Reticular layer.
The deep RETICULAR layer is formed from tough fibrous connective tissue which
contains the following:
•
COLLAGEN fibres which gives the skin its strength and resilience.
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•
ELASTIC fibres which gives the skin its elasticity.
•
RETICULAR fibres which help to support and hold all structures in place.
These fibres all help maintain the skin’s tone.
Blood Supply
Unlike the epidermis, the dermis is highly vascular. Arteries carry oxygenated blood to
skin via arterioles (small arteries) and these enter the dermis from below and branch into
a network of capillaries around active or growing structures. The capillary networks drain
into venules (small veins) which carry the deoxygenated blood away from the skin and
remove waste products.
Lymph
There is a network of fine lymph vessels throughout the dermis allowing the removal of
waste from the skin’s tissue. Lymph capillaries found around the dermal papillae, glands
and hair follicle drain away tissue fluid containing waste products from cell activity and
foreign bodies such as bacteria.
Nerves
Nerves are widely distributed throughout the dermis but some can be found in the
papillary layer.
Most nerves in the skin are sensory nerves: which are sensitive to –
Temperature, Pain, Pressure, Touch and Hair Movement.
a) Temperature – there are separate hot and cold receptors in the skin. They are
stimulated by sudden changes in temperature.
b) Pain (Meissner’s Corpuscle) – These consist of branched nerve endings in the
epidermis and dermis. They are evenly distributed.
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c) Pressure (Pacinian Corpuscle) – These are situated beneath the dermis and are
stimulated by heavy pressure.
d) Touch – These receptors are located immediately below the epidermis and are
most numerous in the surface of the fingertips and the tongue. These enable a
person to distinguish between textures such as rough, smooth, hard and soft.
e) Hair movement – A different type of touch receptor detects hair movement
caused by wind or objects brushing against the skin.
Sweat Glands (sudoriferous glands)
Sweat glands are tubular in nature and begin in the deeper layers of the dermis. The
glandular region is deep in the reticular layer and the long duct passes to the skin
surface, opening at a pore.
The function of sweat glands is to excrete sweat.
There are two types of sweat glands:
Eccrine glands
These are found all over the body and
secrete water and sodium chloride, with
small amounts of urea, ammonia and
lactic acid – SWEAT – waste products
from the skin.
Their function is to regulate body
temperature.
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Apocrine glands
These are slightly larger than eccrine glands.
They are found in the axillae, pubic area and
open into hair follicles.
They produce – thicker milky sweat which is
broken down by bacteria and causes Body
Odour.
Erector Pili Muscle
These are muscles attached to the hair wall at one end and the papillary layer at the
other end. When these muscles contract (via a message travelling along a motor nerve),
they pull the hair follicle upright trapping air next to the body for warmth and pinch up the
surrounding skin causing ‘goose bumps’.
Hair Follicle and Hair
The hair is a depression of epidermal cells pushed deep into the dermis. It is responsible
for the production of a keratinised structure called HAIR. Food and oxygen required for
growth is supplied by blood vessels.
Sebaceous Glands
These are found all over the body, except the palms of the hands and the soles of the
feet. Most are appendages of hair follicles and open inside the hair follicle via a duct
called the Pilo Sebaceous Canal, some open onto the skins surface.
The glands produce oil called Sebum:
 Lubricates the skin. (Keeps soft).
 Prevents moisture loss from dermis.
Sebum and sweat forms an invisible layer over the skin called the ACID MANTLE.
Sub-cutaneous layer
This is a thick layer of tissue found below the dermis. Adipose tissue is present, which
supports delicate structures e.g. blood vessels and nerve endings.
It contains the major arteries and veins which supply the skin (network in dermis). The fat
cells contained within this layer help to insulate the body by reducing heat loss.
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Skin Types
Recognition of Basic Skin Types
Skin types are usually described as:





Normal
Dry
Oily
Combination
Sensitive
In reality, however, most skins show features of more than one type, therefore, it is the
assessment that must direct the treatment given.
Normal Skin
Normal skin has an ideal balance of oil and moisture secretions which keep the skin soft,
supple and flexible. It needs simple protection and maintenance treatment. Texture is fine
and even, with no imperfections present. The skin will feel warm to the touch (due to its
good blood supply) with an even healthy colour.
Dry Skin
Dry skin has reduced oil and moisture balance. This is caused by insufficient secretion of
sebum to lubricate the surface cells and keep them compacted. As a result, the surface
cells curl up and flake.
Skin texture is fine with no visible pores. Premature lines and wrinkles are evident and
the skin has a thin, almost transparent appearance. Dilated capillaries appear commonly
on the cheeks and nose due to lack of protection. The skins appearance can appear dull,
with a matt finish and lack of suppleness.
Oily Skin
Oily skin is characterised with an over-production of oil and low fluid balance. This is
caused by an over-secretion of sebum produced by the sebaceous glands.
Consequently, its surface appears shiny, thick an often dull. A build of sebum in the ducts
and hair follicles stretches and enlarges the pores.
Combination Skin
Any combination of skin types may exist where different areas show different physical
characteristics. The classic combination consists of a central T-zone of oiliness (more
sebaceous glands situated on the centre panel of the face and they are nearer to the
skins surface) with the cheeks and neck showing normal or dry characteristics. The
combination skin is one of the most common skin types.
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Sensitive Skin
All healthy skins to a certain degree show signs of sensitivity. Sensitive skin is often fine
in texture, easily stimulated and has a quick response to treatment. It can be recognised
by high colour, evidence of dilated capillaries and dry, irritated or flaking skin areas.
In addition to the above classifications, skin types can also be dehydrated, mature and
congested.
Dehydrated Skin
Dehydrated means in lacking moisture. The skin looks dull and feels tight. Dry skin is
dehydrated but any skin type may suffer temporary dehydration at any age. Often
dehydration is prematurely caused by neglect (e.g. incorrect protection and care, sun
tanning).
Mature Skin
Mature skin describes skin which has lost the firmness and suppleness of youth.
Whatever its background, as skin ages, certain things occur:
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
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Skin texture changes, becoming coarse and thickened (mouth and chin).
Skin becomes loose and crepey, especially on the neck, lines around the eyes,
mouth and forehead.
The elasticity and plumpness of the skin decreases (collagen fibres).
Vascular damage may be present with broken capillaries on the upper cheeks.
Once these changes have become established, the skin is described as mature.
Congested Skin
Congestion occurs when the pores block and sweat and sebum cannot escape onto the
surface of the skin, leaving a lumpy, coarse feel. Incorrect product choice and poor makeup removal can lead to this skin type.
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Cleansing Products
In order to accomplish effective cleansing without irritation or excessive manipulations,
the correct choice of product must be made. Cleansing products are designed for
different skin types and to perform different tasks. Even prior to detailed skin inspection, it
is important to have some information about the client in order to choose the correct
preparations for effective cleansing. Take guidance from the client’s age, colouring and
type of make-up worn. Tactful questions aid the therapist’s choice of product, thus
avoiding over-stimulation.
Correct product choice is essential as finely pored, easily stimulated skin requires swift
cleansing and blocked or blemished skin needs specific cleansing to remove an oily build
up.
Reason for Cleansing
Reasons
for
Cleansing
To cleanse
the skin
correctly for
an accurate
skin
diagnosis to
be achieved.
To deep
cleanse
the skin
Remove
excess oil,
sweat
secretions
and dirt.
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Remove
Make-up
Prepare
the skin for
further
treatment.
Points to Consider When Choosing a Cleansing Product
Choosing a cleansing product:






Will it cleanse the skin correctly?
Is it suitable for the client’s skin type?
Correct texture for easy application.
Pleasant feel on the skin.
Lightly or un-perfumed.
Economic in use.
Cleansing Products
Soap
The pH value of soap is approximately 7.5 – 9 and is therefore alkaline. Most skins other
than the very oily, feel taut and dehydrated after washing with soap as the skin’s pH
balance is drastically altered. The quality of soap is dependent upon the quality of fat
used and most soap’s today have a far lower pH value. Moisturising the skin is necessary
after washing with soap. Bear in mind that soap does not adequately remove make-up.
Soapless Cleansers (facial washes and gels) and Complexion Soaps
These products are similar to soap but are not quite as drying on the skin and
do not drastically alter the pH balance. Ideally these are used on oily / blemished skin
types and younger adolescent skins to prevent blockages. Soapless cleansers come in
liquid or bar type and sometimes contain almond meal or oatmeal chips to increase the
skin refining effect. These products are washed off with water – not designed for
removing make-up but for cleansing an already clear skin.
Cleansing Milk/Lotions
Most cleansing milks are emulsions and are made of differing proportions of oil and
water. Cleansing milks, being thick with slightly more oil and cleansing lotions being of a
thinner consistency and containing more water. These products are designed to
thoroughly remove make-up, deep cleanse the skin without leaving that taut feeling.
Cleansing Creams
Cleansing creams have a higher percentage of oil to water and have a thicker
consistency which is generally suited for normal to dry, dehydrated and mature skin
types. They are designed to dissolve make-up quickly, making prolonged manipulations
unnecessary and thus avoids over-stimulation to surface capillaries and does not strip the
skin of its natural oils.
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Liquifying Cleansing Creams
These are designed for the fast removal of stage, television and theatrical make-up. They
do not contain water or detergent and are classed as emollients. These are ideal for extra
dry skins. These products are not as popular with clients.
Hypo-allergenic Products
These are suited for very sensitive skins where the products are allergy tested but it is not
always a guarantee that they will not cause a reaction. Hypo-allergenic products include
the full range from cleansers, toners, moisturisers through to make-up. Ideal for sensitive,
dry skins and sensitive oily skin types.
Medicated Cleansers
Medicated cleansers are designed to cleanse but also aid in the prevention of the spread
of infection from spots and pustules. Care must be taken when using these products as
they can be very strong and may over-stimulate the skin, especially areas where there
are no blemishes. Ideal for oily, problem, teenage skin and acnefied skin, if it is not
sensitive.
Facial Toners
Facial toners, Known also as tonics, lotions, astringents are solutions that remove surface
skin cells, soap residue and oil from the skin. They are often heavy on water and alcohol
and sometimes contain other ingredients like salicylic acid, witch hazel, benzoyl peroxide.
A good toner will remove surface oils and debris which may be helpful for oily or acneprone skin.
The strength of the toner will depend on the amount of alcohol it contains as the alcohol
evaporates, the superficial blood vessels contract making the skin feel cold. This has the
effect of tightening the pores and reducing the flow of sebum and sweat onto the skins
surface.
Witch Hazel
Witch hazel is an astringent produced from the leaves and bark of the North American
witch hazel shrub (Hamamelis virginiana). When used as a facial toner, Witch hazel has
a strong astringent effect which is particularly good for greasy, combination and
acnefied skin conditions.
Rose Water
Rose water; itself is a by-product of the production of rose oil for use in perfume.
Classically, rose water is made using damask roses, which are many-petaled and
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fragrant. The alcohol content in Rose water is much less than in Witch Hazel and
therefore is better suited to a dry, sensitive or mature skin condition.
Orange Flower water
When distilled, fresh orange blossoms yield a sweet smelling elixir known as orange
flower water. Along with Rose water this toner has a mild stimulating and toning effect
and is suitable for use on dry, sensitive or mature skin conditions.
Application of Toners
Tonic Patter
1. Fold a piece of dry cotton wool into a finger shape and saturate the top 1/3
with your chosen toner.
2. Support the length of the pad with your middle finger and tap briskly up the
neck, jaw line, cheeks and forehead. Ensure that when you work close to
the eye area that you protect from splashes by placing a yellow sponge in
front of the eyes.
3. Blot off any excess with a tissue before application of a moisturiser.
Tonic Gauze
1. Cut the correct size gauze to fit the client’s neck and facial features.
2. Place the gauze in a small bowl and saturate with the chosen toner.
3. Place tissues at the sides of the neck and damp oval shaped eye pads on
the eyes. Carefully unfold the gauze and smooth over the face and neck
area.
4. Leave the gauze in place for 5 minutes, remove and blot the face and neck
with a clean tissue prior to application of a moisturiser.
Moisturisers
The application of a cosmetic moisturiser helps to maintain the natural oil and moisture
balance by locking in moisture into the tissues offering protection and hydration.
The basic formulation of a moisturiser is oil and water to make an oil-in-water emulsion.
The water content of a moisturiser will help to return lost moisture from the skin’s surface
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whilst the oil content prevents the skin’s natural moisture from evaporating at the surface
of the skin.
Benefits of a Moisturiser




It protects the skin from external environmental damage.
It plumps the skin with moisture, which reduces the appearance of fine lines.
It softens the skin and relieves skin tautness and sensitivity.
Some moisturisers may contain UV filters which protect the skin against sun
damage.
Moisturising Lotions
Lotions contain up to 85-90% water and 10-15% oil. They have a light liquid
formulation and are best suited for:
 Greasy skin
 Young combination skin
 Normal skin types
Moisturising Creams
Creams contain up to 70-85% water and 15-30% oil. They have a thicker consistency and
are best suited for:
 Dry skin types
 Mature skin types
Application
Moisturiser is applied after toning in a facial routine and always before make up
application.
1. Remove the moisturiser from either the tub by using a spatula or apply on
the back of your hand if it is a lotion.
2. Apply an even coverage of small dots over the neck and facial area.
3. Quickly and evenly use a light upward stroking movement to blend in the
chosen moisturiser.
4. Blot excess moisturiser from the skin using a clean tissue
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Recommended products
A good skincare routine is essential for your client to maintain a healthy skin and
it will also prolong the effects of the facial treatment. Clients will turn to you for
advice on the most suitable products for their skin type. As a professional
therapist you will be expected to sell products and to be able to match the skin
type to the right product. Below is some guidance on which products suit which
skin type.
Note: All moisturisers should contain a SPF, or a separate SPF product should be
used – clients should protect their skin from UV rays all the time, even in the
winter.
Normal skin
●
●
●
●
●
●
Eye make-up remover lotion
Light cleansing cream or lotion
Facial wash if preferred
Toner with 10–20 per cent alcohol content
Light moisturising cream or lotion
Eye lotion
Dry skin
Oily/greasy skin
● Eye make-up remover oil or cream
● Cream cleanser
● Low alcohol content toner (or no
alcohol if skin is sensitive too)
● Paraffin wax mask
● Non setting (hydrating) mask
● Eye cream
● Moisturising cream – high oil content
●
●
●
●
Mature skin
Combination skin
●
●
●
●
●
●
● T-zone – follow oily/greasy skin
recommendations
● Dry cheek areas – follow dry skin
recommendations
● Normal cheek areas – follow normal
skin recommendations
● Young congested T-zone – follow
congested skin recommendations with
normal skin recommendations on
cheeks
● Exfoliating cream/gel
● Balancing mask (two masks can be
used, one on the T-zone and one on
the cheeks)
Cream cleanser
Freshening toner
Anti-ageing moisturiser
Exfoliating peel
Eye cream
Neck cream
●
●
●
●
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Eye make-up remover lotion
Cleansing lotion or cleansing milk
Facial wash or foaming gel
Toner with 20–50 per cent alcohol
content
Cleansing grains or peel
Clay-based masks
Moisturising milk
Light eye gel
Congested skin
Sensitive or dehydrated skin
●
●
●
●
These are skin conditions so can be
present on any skin type.
Dehydrated skin:
● Moisturiser should have a high water
content, not oil
Sensitive skin:
● All products should be unperfumed and
hypoallergenic (or use specialist
products)
● Toner should contain 0 per cent alcohol
content
● Check for known allergies
●
●
●
●
Eye make-up remover lotion
Cleansing lotion or cleansing milk
Facial wash or foaming gel
Toner with 25–50 per cent alcohol
content
Cleansing grains or peel
Clay-based masks
Moisturising milk
Light eye gel
Contra-indications
The diagrams below show some of the contra-indications you may come across
during facial treatments. The contra-indications are divided into those that will
prevent a treatment and those that will require you to adapt your treatment.
Contra-indications that will restrict your treatment – treatment can go ahead but
may need to be adapted:
Bruising
Styes
Cuts and
abrasions
Scar tissue
Contra-indications
that will restrict a
treatment
Skin allergies
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Eczema
Psoriasis
Hyper
keratosis
Contra-indications that will prevent a treatment – treatment cannot go ahead until
medical treatment has taken place:
Impetigo
Scabies
Herpes simplex
Herpes Zoster
Warts
Contra-indications that
will prevent a treatment
from taking place
Boils
Acne
Tinea
Conjunctivitus
Severe skin
infections
Eye infections
Allergic Reactions To Cosmetics
Some sensitive skins are very intolerant to certain substances used in the manufacturer
of cosmetics.
Typical signs of a reaction are:
 Itching, usually the first sign.
 Redness (erythema) and increased irritation.
 Rash may sometimes occur.
 Urticaria (hives) i.e raised lumps, swelling or puffiness.
 In severe cases Eczematous reactions, where crusty sores form.
Any of the above can occur as a result of using a certain cosmetic, including nail polish,
on a person with a sensitivity to a substance contained in it.
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What is an allergy?
It is where the body’s immunity system can go wrong. Our blood stream contains
antibodies which protect our body from invasion of harmful substances. The harmful
substances such as bacteria are called antigens and the function of the antibodies is to
destroy them. In an allergic person, however, the antigen (bacteria etc) is known as the
allergen (cause of allergy) and in addition to fighting and attacking the harmful substance
it becomes attached to one or more tissues in the body. If the body is further exposed to
the allergen on another occasion the reaction will occur more quickly and violently.
Despite the fact that many products are now advertised as ‘non-allergic’ or ‘hypoallergenic’ it is virtually impossible to guarantee that a cosmetic ingredient will not set up
a reaction in any person. However, these products will have in them the ingredients that
are least likely to cause an allergic reaction in people with hyper-sensitive skins.
It should also be remembered that a person can develop an allergy after years of using a
certain product, probably due to internal body changes, so it can sometimes be very
difficult to pinpoint a cause and therefore a process of elimination is the only solution.
Skin Diagnosis
The success of the treatment depends on the therapist’s ability to recognise facial
conditions which are present at the time of treatment and her advice to the client.
Most skins change fairly frequently due to internal factors and external factors. The
therapist must give attention to the changes that may occur.
Internal Factors
Stress
Nutrition
Pregnancy
Internal
Factors
Puberty/
Menopause
Emotions
Hormonal
Changes
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External factors
Environment
Central
heating
Air
conditioning
Rain
Internal
Factors
Working
Conditions
Sun
Humidity
Wind
To diagnose a skin correctly, requires a sound knowledge of how the body functions and
an understanding of the many different conditions which may be present at the time of
diagnosis.
Procedure of Skin Diagnosis
Wash hands first:





Cleanse skin thoroughly
Tone- it is important to remove all traces of cleanser and any oiliness left on the
client’s skin- to avoid getting a false impression of the skin’s balance of natural oil
and moisture.
Let the client know exactly what you are doing. Study the entire face and neck
through the magnifying lamp.
Fill in the client’s skin classification on the diagnosis sheet.
Continue with the recommended treatment.
Main Points of Diagnosis







Age
Pigmentation
Skin imperfections
Skin balance (oil/balance)
Skin temperature
Acid/alkaline level
Skin texture
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Age
The age of the client provides the most immediate guide to treatment.
Loss of tone in muscles of facial expression and softening of the skin itself gives the
therapist a clear indication of the client’s age. The softening of the skin and loss of
muscle tone can cause crepey, loose skin on the neck and fine wrinkling around the
eyes and mouth, where facial expressions are constantly repeated. It is evident that
mature women who retain a fuller face, often due to slight overweight, do not suffer so
badly from lines and crepey skin due to the support that the skin obtains from the adipose
tissue of the skin.
Skin tissue ages at different rates. The following factors affect the ageing of the skin:






Genetic factors
The care received
General health of client
Dietary habits
Lifestyle (adequate sleep, stressful workload, career demands, financial problems)
External aggravation (pollution, sun exposure)
Correct professional treatment and home product guidance can considerably delay the
effects of ageing.
Pigmentation
Discoloured skin




This may be due to a physical condition and in this case only corrective make-up is
advisable.
Pregnancy can cause patches of pigmentation on the skin.
Over-exposure to sunlight.
Pigmentation abnormalities such as ephelides (freckles), lentigo, vitiligo, should all
be noted, as the reaction of the skin in the areas of no pigmentation can be
different from that of the normally coloured parts.
Easily Stimulated skin
An increase of colour intensity and reaction brought about by basic skin cleansing is a
vital point of diagnosis. Any evident dilated capillaries visible
should be noted. Diagnosis of this skin type will give the therapist valuable information as
to salon treatments possible and general skin care necessary to prevent the progression
into an irreversible skin imperfection.
Skin Imperfections
Where imperfections are evident, the therapist must attempt to determine the cause of
the condition.
24
Common Imperfections
Dilated capillaries, comedones (blackheads), skin tags, blocked pores, pustules, milia
(white heads) and open pores.
Many minor skin conditions become evident through neglect and the client will rely on the
therapist’s ability to recognise these and advise her on home care to complement the
salon treatment.
Skin imperfections not treated by a Beauty Therapist are: warts, moles, skin tags. The
client may ask your advice and it is your duty to recommend them to seek medical
advice.
Skin Temperature
One important task of body and facial skin is to control body temperature through
vasodilation and constriction of surface capillaries which can be clearly seen. The face
has a pink appearance and is easily stimulated.
If the surface capillaries are well covered and protected, then the body temperature would
have to be considerably increased before a reaction would become evident.
N.B
Blood supplies nourishment to the skin. The blood as it circulates through the skin
contributes essential materials for growth, nourishment and repair of the skin , hair and
nails. In the subcutaneous tissues are networks of arteries which send smaller branches
of hair papillae, hair follicles and skin.
Skin Texture
The texture of the facial skin depends mostly on the oil and moisture balance of the skin.
In a young skin, an over production of sebaceous secretions may cause dilated pores
and give a thickened shiny appearance which often leads to an unevenness of texture.
Rough, dry skin occurs mainly due to the lack of moisture and dead skin cells
accumulate, giving a rough texture. Harsh treatment can strip the skin of its natural
protection, with dilated capillaries on the cheeks and across the nose. These can be seen
through the epidermal layer, great care must be taken and protection always worn.
Acid/Alkaline Level (pH scale) – Acid Mantle
The pH (potential Hydrogen) of a liquid refers to its degree of acidity or alkalinity.
The pH scale goes from 0 – 14. The neutral point is 7.
Acidity
-
Alkalinity -
Anything below 7 is acid. The lower the pH, the greater is the
degree of acidity.
Anything form 7 – 14 is alkaline. The higher the pH the greater
is the degree of alkalinity.
25
The oil from the sebaceous glands and the acid from the sweat glands blend together to
form a film known as ‘The Acid Mantle’ which covers the entire body. The protective film
must be kept correctly balanced for good skin. Too much sebum causes an oily skin and
if the sweat glands are over-active and too much acid is left on the surface of the skin, it
becomes dry. The pH value of normal healthy skin ranges between 5 and 5.6 showing an
acid reaction compared to a neutral pH of 7. Normal skin and hair have an inbuilt ability to
adjust their pH balance back to normal within 20 minutes of washing. This process can be
speeded up by the use of a toner or hair conditioner as these are slightly acidic.
Skin Balance (Oil/Moisture)
Loss of Water – Dehydration
Water evaporates from the skin quickly in an atmosphere with low humidity, in hot or cold,
dry weather, particularly if it is windy, or in a centrally heated room. If the moisture is not
replenished, the skin feels:



Rough and dry.
Becomes less supple.
Has a tendency to crack, which may allow bacteria to penetrate and the skin may
become inflamed.
Another main cause of dehydration is immersion in water. This happens because the
water within the skin moves through the protective membrane in the epidermis in an
attempt to dilute the tap water surrounding the body. The stronger the minerals and salts
in the water, the more water the skin looses so hard water is particularly drying. The best
way to prevent dehydrating is to use moisturiser all year round, not only on the face and
hands. The body needs as much protection as possible since it suffers from exposure
and immersion in water.
A good moisturiser has a very important role of slowing down the rate of dehydration by
acting as a barrier to water loss and evaporation in the same way that sebum does.
Water is replaced from below eventually, so provided evaporation or moisture is slowed
down, the skin works towards dehydrating itself, maintaining its suppleness and softness.
26
Skin Types
It is essential that the skin type is determined and recorded. This will allow the therapist to
use the correct products to suit the client’s skin type and determine the correct treatment
to suit the skin type.
Points to Consider During a Facial Diagnosis
After the initial skin cleansing, we have to analyse the client’s facial area before we can
proceed for the following reasons:









Extent of condition – description of skin, facial problems.
Contra-indications – through visual inspection and question.
Root cause.
Realistic assessment – good and bad points.
Treatments – products, homecare routines, salon treatment, usually combining
manual and electrical applications.
Frequency – how often.
Length of course – e.g. 10 weeks.
Likely results – no false promises. You must be realistic and it is always better to
be conservative in estimation>
Rapport – ideal opportunity to build a good relationship with the client, one of trust
and confidence so that she will:
a)
b)
c)
d)
Divulge necessary information.
Have confidence in the therapist.
Have confidence in the prescribed treatment.
Follow a home care routine.
A further but less obvious point to be considered – is the client
psychologically suitable for treatment.
Exfoliating
Cells that have been on the skin for too long on the surface of the skin are greyish and
dull in tone. They may flake and can clog the sebaceous pores, leading to the superficial
spots and blackheads and giving an uneven patchy look to the face and body. Cosmetic
exfoliation helps to speed up the flaking and shedding process, by taking off the top layer
of dead skin cells to expose the finer, more translucent tissue underneath. It may also
help preserve the youthful bloom of the skin. Some dermatologists now maintain that the
reason why a man’s skin tends to line less rapidly around the mouth and cheeks than a
woman’s because the practice of shaving acts as a natural exfoliant.
27
There are various kinds of exfoliation products on the market:
 Facial peel and facial scrub – contain small grains.
 Cleansing pads.
 Pore grains – a powder which mixes to a paste when water is added. Ideal for
oily/combination skin types to deep cleanse the pores.
 Always follow manufacturers instructions before use.
Use according to the skin type:



Normal/oily/combination skin - once a fortnight/3weeks.
Dry/dehydrated, mature skin - once/twice a week.
Sensitive skin – very rare as it can irritate.
Whatever method used, you should always exfoliate according to your own skin’s
strength. The purpose is to leave the skin glowing, translucent and slightly pink, not red,
inflamed and irritated. Exfoliants should be used with caution on sensitive faces, but the
tougher, body skin can withstand a slightly more vigorous treatment (elbows/knees).
Application for home use:
Apply an exfoliator all over the face and neck and remove using upward movements and
wash off with tepid water. Tone and moisturise accordingly.
A home recipe of ground oatmeal mixed with water – massage over the face and neck for
one minute and rinse off. Tone and moisturise.
Skin Warming Techniques
When using warming techniques on the face, it is an ideal way of maximising treatment
effects.
Warming the skin will:
 Aid in relaxation of the muscles.
 Open the pores.
 Prepare the skin for further treatments.
Methods of Warming the Skin are:



Applying hot towels.
The use of a facial steamer (vapourzone).
Self heating products e.g. thermal masks.
28
Thermal and Sensitivity Tests
Prior to applying heat treatments, it is essential to carry out a thermal and skin
sensitivity tests.
Thermal Skin Tests
Use two test tubes, one with warm water and the other with cold. Alternately place
the tubes on the client and record if they specify which is hot and cold. This
identifies if the nerve endings in the skin are working correctly.
Sensitivity Skin Tests
Alternatively touch the client’s skin with sharp (orange stick) and soft (cottonwool)
objects and record what they feel. This identifies that the sensory nerve ending are
working correctly.
If the client can feel both tests then treatment can be carried out.
Hot Towels
Hot towels require no electrical equipment and are easy and convenient to use – ideal for
mobile work.
Method of use:
 Place towel into hot water. Keep both ends of towel dry for the therapist to remove
from water safely. Towels can also be warmed in a hot towel unit. This warms
damp towels with steam ready for use.
 Wring out excess water. If the towel is too hot to hold, it is too hot to apply to the
clients face.
 Place the towel onto the face, avoid the moth and nose to allow the client breathe
and avoid a feeling of claustrophobia.
 Press the face gently until the towel cools and remove.
 Repeat if necessary (depends on client skin type).
 Blot skin dry and carry out comedone extraction while skin is still warm.
Facial Steaming (Vapourzone)
The use of steam on the skin can form part of any facial treatment. It is applied after
cleansing and exfoliating. Distilled water only is used in the steamer/vapourzone.
Benefits of steaming:
 Relaxing due to the warmth.
 Desqumation – removal of dead skin cells.
 Increased circulation – this causes the pores to open. Perspiration is increased
which increases removal of impurities (dirt, make-up, dead skin cells)
 Comedone removal is easier as pores are open and less risk of marks or scarring.
29


Cell regeneration for dry, dehydrated, mature skin types.
Sebaceous glands are stimulated which improves the amount of moisture in the
skin.
Contra-indications to Vapourzone
Open skin
Hypersensitive skin
Dilated capillaries
Asthma/bronchial conditions
Diabetes – increased (metabolic rate)
Acne rosacea
Sunburn
High blood pressure
Dizziness
Severe cold or hay fever
Eye infections
Claustrophobia
Remember:
 Raise the couch so that the client is upright.
 Cover the eyes with damp cotton wool pads.
 To tell the client to breathe through their mouth during treatment.
 Blot the skin dry after treatment.
 The client may need to blow their nose.
The Use of Ozone
Most steamers are designed so that steam can be produced on its own or combined with
ozone for helping to heal greasy, blemished skin. Ozone is drying and has an antibacterial effect.
The Awarding Body Code of Ethics
Most awarding bodies recommend that ozone is not used at all during treatment.
Many public health authorities and beauty exam boards believe that ozone can be bad for
your health. The inhalation of the ozone in great amount can cause respiratory infections.
Ozone has many benefits when used in small quantities, but can be very destructive
when it is incorrectly used.
30
Effects of Ozone Steaming






Drying.
Healing action on blemished skin.
Anti-bacterial.
Oxygen formation on the skin.
Balances pH of the skin.
Stimulating.
Thermal Masks
Thermal masks come in many different forms, so manufacturers’ instructions must be
followed. The chemical reaction between the ingredients produces thermal or heat
reaction for their effectiveness.
The thermal mask is mixed and applied to the skin over a specific cream (to work in
association with the thermal mask). After a few minutes the paste begins to harden and a
chemical reaction occurs between the ingredients which creates heat and warmth in the
surface tissues. The heat produced increases absorption of the cream applied prior to the
mask’s application, but disperses after 20 minutes. The mask has by then become rigid
and can be eased away from the skin.
The mask has powerful deep cleansing, tightening and stimulating effects. The skin is
toned, will look relaxed, hydrated, with fine lines eased from the heat produced within the
mask.
Clients with a sensitive skin type or a nervous disposition are not suitable for this
treatment.
Comedone Extraction
For comedone extraction always:





Always warm the skin first.
Always wear gloves.
Use sterile metal comedone extractors and apply light pressure to gently remove
the blockage.
Do not be a butcher – no nails. Use covered fingers and roll out the comedones.
Dispose of contaminated waste correctly.
31
Facial Massage
The main purpose of facial massage is to increase the skins capacity to function more
efficiently. The main effects of facial massage are:





Stimulation
Relaxation
Cleansing
Toning
Refining
Skilful massage technique should tone and stimulate the tissues without causing irritation
or loss of relaxation.
Massage therefore can be defined as:
‘A scientific manipulation of the soft tissues of the body, each
designed to affect a particular area of the body.’
There is no substitute for the skilful use of hands with the sensitive touch and the ability to
feel the underlying tissues and adapt the manipulating tissues to suit.
Massage movements fall into specific classifications:






Stroking – Superficial/deep.
Effleurage – superficial/deep.
Petrissage – kneading/picking up. (Wringing/rolling – generally used on the
body).
Tapotement – Tapping.
Frictions – classified as petrissage.
Vibrations – fine trembling movements along a nerve path. Applied with
fingers.
Stroking
Stroking movements can be performed in any direction, pressure may be superficial or
deep. A good linking up movement.
‘It is a gliding movement performed without any deviation in direction’.
Effleurage
Effleurage movements are performed with firm, even pressure, in a rhythmical,
continuous fashion towards the heart. An introductory movement, effleurage prepares the
tissues for deeper massage, links up movements and completes the sequence.
32
Petrissage – ‘Pressure’
Petrissage movements are deep rhythmic manipulations that would only be performed on
relaxed muscle tissue, as the intermittent pressure applied is deeper than effleurage
movements.
These movements are performed slowly and rhythmically with the entire palm surface of
the hands, or fingers and thumbs.
Tapotement – Precussion
Tapotement (or percussion) movements are performed in a light, brisk and stimulating
manner. The rhythm of the movement is performed in a way that the fingers are
continually breaking contact with the skin.
Vibrations
Vibrations are performed within a general facial sequence, where additional relaxation
without over stimulation or surface is required. Vibrations are applied on a nerve centre,
or running along the path of a nerve and are produced by a rapid contraction and
relaxation of the therapists arm muscle so that fine trembling or vibration results.
Massage mediums
The massage medium used will depend on the client’s skin type and client preference. It
is essential to follow manufacturers’ instructions when using massage mediums. Check
that the client does not have a nut allergy. Massage mediums used are:




Cream
Oil
Talcum powder
Pre-blended aromatherapy oils
Massage technique
The most important requirement for massage is to concentrate on client needs and
perform the massage with care and awareness of facial anatomy. The client must be
warm, relaxed and comfortably supported. A quiet atmosphere is required, with talking
discouraged, but if conversation does take place it should be calm and quiet.
Further requirements are:
 Maintain an even rhythm.
 Establish the correct rate of movement.
 Keep the hands flexible, so that they fit the contour of the area.
 Maintain the correct body posture during the massage.
 Regular pressure according to the muscle bulk and specific skin conditions
observed.
 Choose and apply the movements correctly to meet the needs of the skin.
 Select the most suitable medium to ensure that the hands are able to glide and
move smoothly whilst massaging.
33
Contra-actions to Facial Massage
The stimulating effects of the massage may continue up to 48 hours after the massage.
During this time, the skin throws off waste products and toxins which may cause
blotchiness and minor blemishes (pustules, papules). The client should be made aware
that these reactions are likely to occur and that they occur as a direct result of the
cleansing effects of the treatment. This information should be made available at the
consultation stage. The skin should look at its best two or three days after a facial
treatment.
Face Masks
A salon facial is always reinforced by a specific mask application chosen to increase
the cleansing and toning aspects of the treatment. Masks can have different actions
depending on their formulation and the choice relied mainly on skilful skin diagnosis
observation and knowledge of the effects of the basic mask ingredients.
The most important actions of a mask are general refining and stimulation, they
thoroughly cleanse the skin by forming a film and excluding air, this in turn causes the
skin to perspire, helping to remove any ingrained dirt or impurities. A mask is a
preparation that contains various ingredients, to which active substances are added to
form a paste or emulsion.
Types of Masks
Setting masks –
include clay, peel-off masks and thermal masks.
Non-setting masks –
include biological masks (fruit, plant, herbal and vegetable
based). Natural product masks (eggs, fruit, honey etc).
Specialised masks –
include plastic type masks, paraffin wax and hot oil masks.
Actions of a Face Mask
Soothing
Stimulating
Refining
Nourishing
Face Masks
Peeling
Cleansing
34
Setting Masks
Setting masks have one common purpose, refining through increased desqumation.
As the masks set and tighten, the dead horny surface layer (stratum corneum) and
oily secretions (sebum), combine with the mask ingredients and are removed
together.
Indications for Setting Masks
The cleansing, toning and stimulating effects of setting masks give them a wide range
of applications, particularly among the younger age group. The lightening, drying
actions will contra-indicate them on mature and hyper-sensitive skins, where more
specialised forms of mask therapy are preferable.






Cleansing, desqumation action on younger skin conditions.
General stimulation for maintenance of oil, moisture and pH balance.
Refining, toning, stimulating effects on sluggish circulation.
Dehydrated, neglected skin conditions requiring stimulation and an
improvement in cellular functions.
Soothing, stabilising effect on delicate or unstable skin conditions.
Cleansing, drying, stimulating effect on acne skin.
Basic Clay Mask
Dry Mask Ingredients
The ingredients are natural and are found in the earth and are good for drawing out
impurities, deep cleansing, stimulating, improves circulation and soothing.
Calamine (pink)
- produces a soothing action on surface capillaries,
reducing the skins vascular appearance.
- A very mild, gentle effect is achieved.
Magnesium (snow white)
- Is mildly astringent, suitable for refining skin
with open pores.
- It has a slight tightening and firming effect on the skin.
- Has a mild toning effect.
- Mixes well with calamine on delicate skins.
- Used with mild liquid ingredients.
35
Kaolin (off-white)
- brings about a strong response, which cleanses the
skin and removes impurities.
- As improved vascular and lymphatic flow increases
nutrition to the skins surface is increased and hastens
the removal of waste products.
- Gentler than fullers earth.
- Not suitable for dry, sensitive, fine skin.
Fullers Earth (green/grey)
- Strong in action.
- Drying and refining.
- Stimulating caused by a fast vascular
response and inter-action of tissue fluids.
- Oily/seborrhoea skin types and will absorb oilyness.
- Desqumation and cleansing actions suits seborrhoea
conditions.
- Used with stronger liquid ingredients.
Flowers of Sulphur (yellow)
- Extremely strong in action.
- Extremely drawing and refining.
- Ideal for very oily, spotty skin.
- Used with water as it is so strong.
- Can be used for application to individual spots.
- USE WITH CARE.
Liquid Mask Ingredients
Distilled water
- The chemicals are removed from water
(magnesium bicarbonate or calcium
carbonate.
- Ideal for sensitive skin.
Rose Water
- Mild toning effect.
- Increases effects of dry ingredients.
- Ideal for dry/mature skin types.
36
Orange Flower Water
- Mildly astringent, stimulating and toning
action.
- Used in combination with refining mask
ingredients.
Witch Hazel
- Astringent in action.
- Drying and very stimulating.
- A refining effect is achieved.
- Ideal for oily/seborrhoeic/problem skin.
Almond Oil/Grapseed Oil
- Used when a drying action is not required.
- Ideal for dehydrated, neglected younger
skins and mature skin.
Always add dry ingredients to
the oil to ensure correct mixing.
Glycerine
- Mask does not dry out completely.
- Ideal for dry/dehydrated skin types.
Method






The skin should be deep cleansed with excess cream removed.
Ensure that the client’s hair is thoroughly protected by a headband or turban.
The mask should be mixed and applied quickly using a brush.
Application must be even with the minimum number of brush strokes visible.
Avoid the delicate skin around the eye area, the eyebrows, mouth and nostrils.
When application is complete apply eye pads to aid relaxation.
Removal







On completion (usually 10-15 mins) the mask should be softened and removed
using warm damp sponges.
Begin removal at the neck area, then the cheek area and finish at the forehead.
Ensure each area is mask free before going onto the next area.
Use the sponges with flat flowing strokes for swift removal
Wash sponges and change the water as required as the skin will always dry white
if the sponges and water are full of clay mask.
On completion of thorough removal - check all area e.g. around nostril area.
Tone skin after mask removal and blot.
Apply moisturiser to suit the skin type.
37
Skin Type
Powder
Liquid
Time
Calamine
Rose water
7 mins
Sensitive/dry
Calamine &
Magnesium
Rose water
10 mins
Normal
7 mins
Combination
(Dry/normal)
Calamine &
magnesium
(cheeks)
Rose water
Kaolin &
Magnesium
(t-zone)
Oily
Witch Hazel
10-12 mins
Kaolin
Witch Hazel
12-13 mins
Oily (comedones)
Fullers earth
Witch Hazel
15 mins
Seborrhoeic/Acne
Non-Setting Masks
These include:
 Biological masks – fruit, honey, herbal and vegetable based.
 Natural product mask – eggs, honey, fruit juice, cream etc.
These products have a gentle but effective action on the skin. Natural ingredients are used
as fresh as possible and the mask applied immediately. The ingredients are applied
directly onto the skin, or on to gauze for ease of application and removal and to contain the
ingredients. They form a light film on the skin which becomes firm and dry but does not
tighten. It can be left on the skin for up to 20 minutes, removed and the skin wiped gently
with tepid water.
38
Specialised Masks
These include:
 Paraffin Wax Masks.
 Warm Oil Masks.
 Thermal/Mineral Masks.
Paraffin Wax Mask
The purpose of the paraffin wax mask is to ensure deep penetration of a product. The
warmth of the mask relaxes the skin, allows the product to penetrate and forms a vacuum
and causes the skin to perspire. The perspiration cannot escape and is forced into the
stratum corneum layer. When the treatment is completed the skin appears moist, improved
skin colour with superficial lines softened with instant results visible.
Indications for Paraffin Wax Treatment





Dry/dehydrated skin requiring stimulation and correction of oil and moisture balance.
Mature skins needing regeneration.
Crepey, finely lined skin where gentle stimulation is needed and where absorption of
other products is required after the mask therapy treatment.
Normal/slightly uneven texture to deep cleanse and refine skin texture.
Oily/seborrhoea skin conditions to remove surface adhesions, promote or
accelerate desqumation, soften skin and open pores before extraction.
Contra-indications















High blood pressure.
Recent scar tissue.
Hyper-sensitive skin.
Diabetes.
Heart disorders.
Extremely vascular skin.
Active acne.
Sinusitis.
Skin infections/sepsis e.g. impetigo, herpes simplex.
Severe skin conditions e.g. severe eczema.
Loss of skin sensation.
Highly nervous/tense client.
Claustrophobia sufferer.
Excessively loose skin.
Bruising.
39
Precautions








Ensure the wax container is on a solid surface.
Maintain equipment in good working order (PAT tested).
Test the temperature on yourself and then the client – (thermostatic controls
maintain the temperature at 49˚ C.
Explain the procedure to the client.
Protect sensitive areas with moisturiser/damp cotton wool.
Apply eye pads.
Clients keep eyes and mouth closed during application.
Ensure even application over the face with thick edges for swift removal.
Effects of Treatment








Softens the skin and opens the pores.
Surface adhesions are freed.
Perspiration is increased due to an increase in temperature.
Circulation increase and pH balance controlled.
Surface cellular debris is removed.
Increased elasticity and skin tone is improved.
Skin texture is smoother and elasticity is improved.
Skins capacity to absorb products is increased.
Application and Removal















Protect headband with tissues.
Check temperature of the wax on your wrist and the client’s shoulder.
Any sensitive areas can be protected with moisturiser, thus when the mask is
applied the heat will aid its absorption.
Application of eye pads ensures safety and relaxation.
Wax application must be quickly at a temperature as warm as the client can
comfortably tolerate.
Seal the eye pads first.
An even layer of wax is built up with the eyes, lips, nostrils and hairline avoided.
Heat builds up initially within the mask and it sets as it cools.
Apply a hand towel to retain warmth.
Application time is from 10-20 minutes depending on skin types and tolerance to
heat.
Stay with the client throughout the duration to reassure the client and include a
complementary hand and arm massage.
To remove – release the mask around the edges with a spatula. Lift the mask from
the throat upwards (eye pads will remove with the mask).
Remove any bits of wax with warm damp sponges and blot.
Face and neck massage is then carried out.
Toning and moisturiser is applied to complete the facial.
40
Warm Oil Mask
Infra red heat is used in conjunction with almond/grapeseed oil. Perspiration is increased
and the skins capacity to absorb products is improved due to increased circulation. Skin
texture, smoothness, elasticity and colour is improved.
Indications




Crepey, fine lines, mature skin.
Premature ageing of the skin.
Dehydrated skin.
As a preventative treatment for younger, drier skins.
Contra-indications




Extremely vascular conditions.
Hypersensitive skins.
Very nervous, highly strung clients.
Cover sensitive areas/dilated capillaries with damp cotton wool.
Application








Cut the gauze to fit the clients face and neck.
Soak the gauze in the selected oil.
Apply eye pads.
Apply the gauze – ensure no dripping excess onto the client.
Place infra-red lamp at the correct distance and for the appropriate time maximum
20 mins).
Stay with the client for reassurance.
Remove lamp and gauze and apply facial massage.
Remove excess oil, tone and moisturise to complete the facial.
Effects of Local Application of Infra-Red Rays




Infra red rays produce a rise in temperature and erythema is produced.
Sensory nerve endings are calmed.
Sudoriferous (sweat glands) are stimulated
Sebaceous glands are stimulated.
41
Effects of ageing on the face and body
Clients are always searching for ways to slow down or even prevent the ageing
process from occurring, and the beauty therapy industry is constantly developing
new and more advanced anti-ageing treatments.
As we age, changes start to occur in our face and body as early as our 20s. We
cannot stop the ageing process, but we can protect our skin and keep it healthylooking for longer.
How ageing affects us
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Cell renewal and the process of desquamation slow down, so the number of
healthy new skin cells is reduced.
Hormone levels start to decrease.
Collagen and elastin in the skin decline, leading to a lack of support.
Adipose tissue decreases, leaving less support, which causes the skin to start
to sag.
The skin produces less melanin, leading to pigmentation disorders.
The immune system may be less effective.
Muscles lose tone.
Sebum levels decrease, making skin drier.
Anti-ageing treatments
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Products – cleansers, moisturisers and serums stop moisture being lost from
the skin, keeping lines and wrinkles plumped out. They also often provide
protection from the sun’s UV rays.
Treatments – microcurrent and microdermabrasion will improve the
appearance and texture of the skin, but results are temporary.
Face peels – these range in strength; some can be carried out in a salon
while others have to be carried out in a hospital environment. Peels remove
the top layers of the skin but can leave the skin very sensitive.
Laser – growing in popularity, this will improve lines and wrinkles and the
skin’s texture.
Collagen – used to help ‘plump’ out the wrinkles; can also be used on the lips.
It gives the skin a smoother appearance.
Botox – a popular treatment, particularly with celebrities. It works by freezing
the muscles, preventing the skin from wrinkling.
Cosmetic surgery – there is a wide range of surgical procedures available to
improve the appearance of the skin. Many are invasive but can have
permanent results.
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Looking after the skin
Your clients will expect you to advise them on how to improve their skin, not just through
the use of products. They will see you as the professional, and if the client is willing to
make changes to their lifestyle, they should notice big improvements.
Guide to healthier looking skin
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Try to get 8 hours’ sleep a night:
Avoid eating or having stimulants such as coffee before bed.
Use relaxation techniques.
Avoid getting over-stimulated before bed. Avoid, for example, playing
computer games.
Eat a well-balanced diet:
Avoid fried foods – grilling and steaming is a healthier option.
Include 5 portions of fruit and vegetables a day.
Fats, sweets and treats should only appear occasionally in your diet.
Eat a wide range of meats and fish.
Dairy should be limited to 2 servings a day.
Grain products should appear the most frequently in your daily diet; try to
ensure you consume wholegrain products.
Drink plenty of water – 6–8 glasses a day. This may need to be increased
on hot days, or if you are exercising, for example.
Use the right products – check they suit the needs of your skin:
You will need to change your products as you get older.
Maintain a good skincare routine.
Prepare the Work Area and the Client for Treatment of facial
Skin Conditions
The treatment plan should be in agreement with both the therapist and the client. It
should state clearly the benefits and probable outcomes. The client’s expectation of the
treatment must be realistic and if this is not the case, the therapist must tactfully explain
why the client’s wishes are likely to be unrealistic.
Preparation of the working area and the client is of importance, as usually it may be one
of the initial impressions received by the client before treatment itself commences.
A well prepared working area with a well equipped, neat trolley and a clean well laid out
couch will instil confidence in the client about the therapist and subsequently the salons
ability to fulfil a highly effective hygienic treatment.
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Points to note and carry out.
The level of lighting, heating and ventilation should be conducive to the treatment needs
of the client. In addition:
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The couch and trolley should be prepared well in advance, before the client enters
the salon.
Clean, sterilised instruments are taken from the autoclave in view of the client.
Sterilisation should not only be done, it should be SEEN to be done.
The therapist must wash her hands just before she is about to start treatment.
Dispose of all disposable items immediately.
It is imperative that the therapist reinforce and promote her hygiene standards not
only through her work but also in her professional image. A clean, well ironed
uniform, hair tied back, no jewellery (except a wedding ring), short and varnish free
nails. All presents a professional image.
The therapist must explain to the client the treatment requirements, i.e. state of
undress. Jewellery to be removed and appropriate position on the couch. Client
discomfort caused through ineffective positioning can lead to poor treatment
results and risk of injury to the client and therapist (RSI – Repetitive Strain Injury).
All equipment and materials used for each treatment must be placed and position
for ease of use and comply with Health & Safety at Work Act 1974 and COSHH
1992.
A warm, friendly manner is adopted towards the client through the initial
preparation stages and through each treatment given. Full explanations and
procedures must be explained as the therapist is actually performing the
treatment.
All contra-indications to each treatment must also be assessed visually during
consultation, as well as before treatment commences, and contra-actions, if any,
must be explained before hand.
Assess Clients and Prepare Treatment Plans
It is important for a consultation to take place with every client before treatment begins.
Once the therapist has managed to find out why the client has come to the salon,
treatments can be planned accordingly.
The main aims of the consultation are to:
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Put the client at ease.
Establish a good relationship.
Find out what the client wants.
Ensure that there are no contra-actions for treatment.
Discuss treatment options.
Agree a realistic treatment plan.
Answer the client’s questions.
Sell the client appropriate treatments and products.
Clients are unlikely to understand many of the treatments fully, until they are explained by
a professional therapist. The more you explain to a client, the more evidence you provide
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of your technical knowledge, this obviously will result in the client having more confidence
in your advice and faith in your personal judgement.
When a therapist recommends a treatment or a course of treatments, the client must be
informed of why these treatments are necessary, what costs are involved and what the
benefits would be. Frequency of treatments and homecare products can also be
discussed.
Information is usually obtained at the consultation stage by asking questions relevant to
the clients needs and by assessing the area to be treated. Listen carefully to your client,
keeping eye contact and develop the responses they give into perhaps gaining more
information about particular areas that need to be re-addressed e.g. medical history or
medication taken.
Details of the client’s doctor may be needed in an emergency. Health and medication
details are important to know when assessing if the client is suitable for treatment. Such
details are necessary for making accurate treatment decisions in the assessment of the
client’s skin type and in other diagnostic treatment.
Contra-indications need to be asked and recorded immediately. Should the client have a
medical condition that contra-indicates treatment, it is important that the therapist refers
the client to her doctor, without unduly alarming the client.
The therapist should not, under any circumstances, attempt to diagnose any medical
conditions herself and referral to a client’s doctor when seeking clarification that the client
can proceed with treatment should be formally addressed without naming any specific
contra-indications.
Assessment of the client prior to treatment provides the therapist with an accurate
diagnosis and more effective treatment plan.
Assessment can take place immediately after consultation, with treatment following
afterwards or an assessment can take place during a treatment, i.e. skin diagnosis after
cleansing and toning.
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Treating Different Clients
A professional therapist will not perform the same facial treatment on every client.
They will adapt the treatment to suit the needs of each individual client. Below are
some suggestions on how to adapt your treatment for some of the most common
types of client you will see in the salon.
Male clients
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Use sponges, as cotton wool can gather in the facial hair.
Use less perfumed products or a specific male range if available.
Be aware that areas with shaving rash may be sensitive.
Male skins are thicker, so an exfoliation treatment should be included.
You may need to perform massage movements more firmly.
Mature skin
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Use a specific anti-ageing range of products.
When massaging, do not drag very loose skin – use more pressure point
movements.
Apply additional neck and eye products.
Always lift the skin upwards towards the forehead. Never force the skin down,
as this might encourage muscles and skin to drop.
Avoid very abrasive products if the client’s skin has started to thin.
Sensitive skin
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Avoid highly perfumed products.
You may need to carry out a patch test if you are unsure how the client’s skin
will react to a product.
Avoid heat treatments as they will bring blood to the surface, causing further
redness.
Use lighter movements during the massage.
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Facial Treatments
Basic Facial – Sensitive/Normal/Combination Skin Type
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Consultation.
Double Cleanse.
Skin diagnosis.
Facial Massage (20 mins).
Non-setting face mask.
Tone and moisturise.
Homecare.
Time - 1 hr
Paraffin Wax- Mature/Dry/Dehydrated
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Consultation.
Double cleanse.
Skin diagnosis.
Exfoliation (optional).
Paraffin wax face mask.
Facial massage (20 mins).
Tone and moisturise.
Homecare.
Time - 1½ hrs
Deep Cleansing Facial – oily /Combination skin
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Consultation.
Double cleanse.
Skin diagnosis.
Exfoliation (optional).
Steam and extraction.
Facial massage (20 mins).
Clay face mask.
Tone and moisturise.
Homecare.
Time - 1½ hrs
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