COMMUNICATING
FORScalp
SUCCESS
Draping,
Shampooing, and
Massage
1.4
8.3
Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program
UNDERSTANDING
SHAMPOOING
• Purpose
To cleanse the hair and
scalp
• Definition
To subject the hair and
scalp to cleaning and
massaging with a
cleansing agent
SHAMPOO SELECTION
• Hair Type
Dry, oily, normal
• Hair Condition
Overprocessed; chemically treated;
damaged
• Home Maintenance
Inappropriate products used at home can
diminish the quality of the salon service
THE pH SCALE
• Potential hydrogen in a
solution
• pH levels
• Acid—0 to 6.9
• Alkaline—7.1 to 14
• The higher the pH rating,
the harsher the shampoo
CHEMISTRY OF WATER
• Purification—fresh water from lakes and
streams must be purified for domestic use.
• Soft water—rain water or chemically softened
water. It contains small amounts of minerals
and will produce lots of lather.
• Hard water—contains minerals that lessen
the ability of shampoo to lather.
CHEMISTRY OF SHAMPOOS
• Water—the main ingredient in all
shampoos
• Surfactant Molecule
– Hydrophilic end
– Lipophilic end
Hydrophilic
• Is the “head” of the
shampoo molecule
• Attaches to water
molecules
• Causes debris to roll off
Lipophilic
• Is the “tail” of the
shampoo molecule
• Is attracted to oil and
dirt
• Causes oil and dirt to
roll up into little balls
that can be lifted off by
a water rinse
TYPES OF SHAMPOO
• Acid-balanced shampoo (4.5 to 5.5)
• Conditioning or moisturizing shampoo
• Medicated shampoo
• Clarifying shampoo
• Balancing shampoo
• Dry or powder shampoo
• Color-enhancing shampoo
• Shampoo for wigs and hairpieces
CONDITIONERS
• Chemical agents that are applied to the
hair to deposit protein and moisture
 Reconstructor Types
 Rinse-through
 Treatment or repair
 Leave-in
 Formulation
 Silicone and moisturebinding humectants
 Emollients
 Synthetic polymers
 Proteins
HUMECTANTS
• Are contained in
conditioners
• Are substances that
absorb moisture
• Help to retain moisture
• Penetrate the cortical
layer of the hair shaft
CONDITIONERS
• Buildup not good
• Conditioning effects
– Smooth the cuticle
– Penetrate the cortex
• Product Types
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Instant conditioners
Moisturizers
Protein conditioners
Deep conditioning
treatments
 Other conditioning
agents
 Spray-on thermal
protectors
 Scalp
conditioners
BRUSHING THE HAIR
• General Rules
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Brush as part of every shampoo.
Do not brush before chemical service.
Do not brush if scalp is irritated.
Do not brush the scalp.
Never use comb to loosen scales from the scalp.
• Benefits
– Stimulates blood circulation
– Removes dust, dirt, and product buildup from the
hair
– Adds shine
BRUSHING THE HAIR
• Make center part from front to
nape.
• Section half an inch off center
to the crown of head.
• Hold strand of hair in
nondominant hand between
thumb and fingers.
• With dominant hand, lay brush
with bristles close to scalp.
• Rotate brush from scalp to
ends; repeat 3 times.
• Part hair half an inch from first
parting; continue brushing until
entire head has been brushed.
SCALP MASSAGE
• Two basic requisites for a healthy scalp are
cleanliness and stimulation.
• Give massage to stimulate the scalp.
• Give massage with all scalp treatments.
• Give massage with continuous, even motion.
• Massage is most effective in a series of
treatments.
• Thorough knowledge of the muscles and
nerve points of the scalp and neck is
necessary for the stylist.
SCALP MANIPULATION
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Relaxing movement
Sliding movement
Sliding and rotating movement
Forehead movement
Scalp movement
Hairline movement
Front scalp movement
Back scalp movement
Ear-to-ear movement
Back movement
Shoulder movement
Spine movement
SHAMPOOING
• Implements Needed
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Towels
Shampoo cape
Shampoo
Conditioner
Comb and hairbrush
• Shampooing
Chemically Treated
Hair
– Use mild shampoo
– Use conditioner
APPLYING DRY SHAMPOOS
• Seat client comfortably
at station.
• Drape for chemical
service.
• Follow product
directions.
• Apply powder directly
onto hair from scalp to
ends and brush through.
SHAMPOOING CLIENTS WITH
SPECIAL NEEDS
• Clients with disabilities or who are wheelchairbound will usually tell you how they prefer to
be shampooed.
• Some clients in wheelchairs will allow you to
shampoo their hair while they remain seated
in their wheelchairs, facing the shampoo bowl
and bending forward.
• Always ask the clients their preferences and
keep their comfort and safety a priority.
SCALP TREATMENTS
• Keep scalp and hair in a clean and healthy
condition
• Should recommend only after a hair and scalp
examination or analysis
• Can be given before or after the shampoo,
depending on which treatment is given
GENERAL HAIR AND
SCALP TREATMENTS
• Normal hair
• Dry hair
• Oily hair
• Dandruff treatment
SUMMARY
• Cleanliness is the key to attractive hair.
• Proper analysis of hair and scalp is
essential.
• Product knowledge is important.
• Shampooing is the stylist’s opportunity to
put the client at ease and prepare her for
the service she is about to receive.
• Scalp treatments are useful in keeping the
hair and scalp healthy.