Chapter 15
(2012 Edition)
Scalp Care, Shampooing,
& Conditioning
•client
~ judgments about surroundings
•the shampoo:
~ heavenly
~ forgettable
~ nightmare
•First (preliminary) step for services
Add to the side bar:
has a psychological impact
Nadinesalons.com
Encompases:
• Scalp care
• Massage
• Shampooing
• Conditioning
*Soothing
* pleasurable
•sets the mood
•quality relaxation time
•happy with shampoo
~ happy with entire visit
Read: Why Study….
Nbcaugusta.com
Scalp Massage
•healthy scalp
~ cleanliness
~ stimulation
•Manipulations used
in scalp treatments
and ***shampooing
media.lvrj.com/images/2785958.jpg
Scalp treatments:
• Given with a continuous even motion
• Stimulate the scalp
• Help to relax the client
• Do not massage or manipulate a client’s
scalp if abrasions are present
Scalp massage is performed:
1. Before a shampoo if a scalp condition is
apparent
2. During the shampoo (once the conditioner has
been applied) for relaxation
Procedure 15-11 Page 338
Difference between Relaxation and Treatment:
• Are the products that are used
• Follow all manufacturer’s directions
•Knowing the location of:
~ muscles
~ blood vessels
~ nerve points
scalp and neck
~ areas that benefit
www.bartleby.com/107/Images/small/image378.jpg
from massage movements
Read: FYI
Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Recommended after a hair and scalp
examination
• Given either before or after the shampoo
• Depending on which treatment is given
Dry Hair and Scalp Treatments
• Deficiency of natural oil
• Use scalp preparations with moisturizing
and emollient ingredients
• Avoid: strong soaps, mineral- or
sulfonated-oil base, greasy or high alcohol
content
• Use a scalp steamer or hooded dryer
• Procedure 15-4 page 329
Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Manipulate scalp
• Increases blood circulation to the surface
• Hardened sebum will be removed with gentle
pressing or squeezing
• Procedure 15-5 page 330
Antidandruff Treatment
• Antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and
lotions control dandruff
• Moisturizing salon treatments soften and
loosen scales
• Recommend additional salon treatments and
antidandruff home care
• Procedure 15-5 page 331 Read “Service
Tip”
Brushing the Hair
Correct hair brushing:
1. Stimulates the blood circulation to the
scalp
2. Helps remove dust, dirt and hair spray
buildup from the hair
3. Gives hair added shine
• Include before every shampoo and scalp
treatment
• Examine scalp for abrasions and
infections
Four exceptions to HAIR brushing:
•Do not brush before a chemical service
•Do not brush if the scalp is irritated
Add: Do not brush wet hair
NO brushing, shampooing, or massaging
the scalp prior to:
~ single-process and double-process
haircolor
~ highlighting
~ most chemical relaxers (FMD)
~ some temporary rinses
~ semipermanent haircolor (FMD)
*If recommended, gently shampoo to avoid
scalp irritation (especially prior to
permanent wave)
• Natural (boar) bristle brushes have tiny
overlapping layers
• Cleans and adds luster to the hair
• Nylon bristles are shiny and smooth
• More suitable to hairstyling
Not on test, however important
Add: never use a comb to loosen scales-can tear
off skin and cause bleeding
Understanding Shampoo
•analyze
~ hair and scalp
Check for:
•dry, dehydrated hair
•Thinning
•excessive hair
~ left in the sink
•dry, tight scalp
•oily scalp
www.aderans.com.sg/images/1-p16.jpg
Cme.medscape.com
•abnormal flaking
•open wounds
•scalp irritations
•scalp disorders or diseases
~ tick or lice infestation
www.bosleymedical.com/wp-content/uploads/2009...
•alert the stylist
~ any hair or scalp conditions
•infectious disease is never treated
~ referred to a physician
•cleanse the hair and scalp prior to
services
•home care
•quality hair care products
•remove all:
dirt
oils
cosmetics
skin debris
•cleanse regularly
~ combat oils
~ perspiration
~ dirt
~ breeding ground for disease-producing
bacteria
•shampoo as often as necessary
•excessive:
~ strips protective oil (sebum)
•oily hair shampooed more often
Add to side bar: Shampoo products account
for the highest dollar expenditure in
hair care products
Selecting the Proper Shampoo
•skilled at selecting shampoos
•read the labels
•make informed decisions
•recommend home-care items
•select a shampoo
~ condition of hair and scalp
•oily, dry, normal, or chemically treated
•Be aware:
~ has the hair been treated with a
chemical service
(lightened, colored, permed,
chemically treated)
~ abused by harsh shampoos
~ damaged by improper care
~ exposed to the elements
www.ourvanity.com/images/damaged-hair.jpg
www.enviroblog.org/hair.jpg
•right home-care products
~ makes all the difference
~ looks, feels, and behaves
•wrong product choice
~ good haircut look bad
•affects outcome of chemical services
Alibaba.com
Hairsalon-windsor.co.uk
Sleekhair.com
Duelle.co.za
Tuscanysalon.com
***only professional products
*guaranteed when purchased
in a salon
*can only guarantee your
chemical services if professional
products are used at home.
•client’s
~ good advertising for you
Pure Substances and Physical Mixtures
•All matter classified as a pure substance or a
physical mixture
•Pure substance:
* a chemical combination of matter in
definite proportions
* has unique properties
* example: Distilled water
*tap (faucet) water is not pure water
Physical mixture:
*physical combination of matter in any
proportions
*combined properties of the substances in
the mixture
*example: salt water
Most of the products used by cosmetologists and
nail technicians/estheticians are physical
mixtures
Solutions, Suspensions, and Emulsions
•All physical mixtures
~ difference between:
*size of the particles
*solubility of the substance
Solution:
~ two or more mixable substances
Solute:
~ substance dissolved in a solution
Solvent:
~ dissolves the solute and makes the
solution
Water: the universal solvent
Miscible liquids
~ mutually soluble
* mixed into stable solutions
ex. water and alcohol
• Stays mixed-forms a solution
• They do not separate
• Ex. Salt water
Immiscible liquids
~ not mixed into stable solutions
ex. water and oil
Suspensions
~ unstable mixture of undissolved particles
~ separate over time
*some lotions and creams-needs to be shaken
ex.
glitter nail polish
oil and vinegar salad dressing
calamine lotion
nail polish
www.polyvore.com/cgi/img-thing?.out=jpg&size=...
Emulsions
~ unstable mixture of two or more
immiscible substances
~ plus an emulsifier
* brings two incompatible materials and
binds them into a fairly stable blend
~ separate over time
~ stable for at least three years
*cosmetics should be used within one year
Name two examples of an emulsifier in hair care
products.
Surfactants
~ allow oil and water to mix
The term=“surface active agent”
www.pg.com/.../hair_twh_133/hair_133_02.jpg
• Head of the surfactant molecule is
Hydrophilic = water-loving
•Tail is
Lipophilic = oil-loving
Fig. 12-8
Oil-in-water emulsion
~ oil is emulsified in water
*do not feel greasy
Read “Did You Know”
Ex.
Mayonnaise
~egg yolk emulsifies the oil
and the water
Used in salons: Haircolor, shampoos,
conditioners, hand creams, and facial
creams
www.cachebeauty.com/Body_Drench/body_drench_t...
www.stuff4beauty.com/images2/socolor.jpg
Water-in-oil emulsions
~ water emulsified in oil
* feels greasy
ex. Cold cream, styling creams, foot balms
2.bp.blogspot.com/.../UcgK1KtniDk/s320/ponds.jpg
riggas.com/images/hydrating300.jpg
Other Physical Mixtures
• Ointments, pastes, pomades, and styling
waxes-semi solid mixtures
• Made with petroleum jelly, oil, and wax
• Off-the-Scalp powdered lighteners are
physical mixtures
Other common product ingredients are:
Volatile alcohols
~ evaporate easily
* isopropyl alcohol (rubbing)
*ethyl (hairspray)
Fatty alcohols: (nonvolatile alcohol waxes)
cetyl alcohol
cetearyl alcohol
*Skin and hair conditioners
www.getprice.com.au/.../851/350__1_1499052-1.jpg
Alkanolamines
~ neutralize acids
~ raise pH of products
~ used in place of ammonia
* less odor
www.salonsupplies.co.uk/dyn/product/large_pro...
Ammonia
~ raises pH in products
~ allows solution to penetrate hair shaft
ex. Ammonium hydroxide (chemical relaxer)
ammonium thioglycolate (perm solution)
Glycerin
~ moisturizer in skin and body creams
Silicones
~ type of oil in conditioners and skin, nail
products
~ less greasy
~ does not cause comedones
~ silky smooth feel on skin
~ shine to hair
www.thebeautyshoppe.com/Products/Images/power...
Volatile organic compounds (VOC’s)
~ evaporate very quickly
ex. Hairspray
* SD alcohol (ethyl alcohol)
Volatile organic solvents
*ethyl acetate
*isopropyl alcohols
Ex. Nail polish, base and top coats
polish removers
dailyvitamin.typepad.com/.a/6a010536308b66970...
Potential Hydrogen (pH)
•small p =quantity
•capital H =the hydrogen ion
Add to the side bar: potential hydrogen
Understanding pH
~ affects hair, skin, and nails
~ all salon services
Water and pH
Ion
~ an atom or molecule
~ carries an electrical charge
Ionization
~ separation of an atom or molecule
~into positive and negative
electrical charges
Hairstraightening.net
Anion
~ ion
~ negative electrical charge
Cation
~ ion
~ positive electrical charge
Acid
1
4
Water molecules ionize
Neutral
~ hydrogen ions
~ hydroxide ions
Alkaline
14
pH scale measures these ions
Hydrogen ions are acidic
Hydroxide ions are alkaline (base)
www.blobs.org/science/chemistry/ph1.gif
www.brooklyn.cuny.edu/.../dissociation.gif
*only products that contain water can
have a pH
Add:
oil and wax cannot be dissolved
with water (no pH)
*pure water is neutral pH
-equal balance of acid and alkaline
The pH Scale
•measures
~ acidity (below 7 acidic)
~ alkalinity (base) of a substance
(above 7 alkaline)
•Range from 0-14
•pH of 7 is a neutral solution
Next slide:everyday foods/products
Trc.ucdavis.edu
Below 7
acidic solution
Above 7 alkaline
solution
Note: strengths
•Logarithm
~ multiples of 10
•pH is a Logarithmic scale
•Two whole numbers
10x10=100 times more acidic or
alkaline
pHschool.com
10
10 x 10=100
0
Hair
pure
Skin
water
5 6 7
14
neutral
•Pure water 100 times more alkaline than
hair
Pure water
~ hair to swell as much as 20%
~ drying to the skin
Acids and Alkalis
Acids-below pH 7.0
***turns litmus paper
~ blue to red
Alpha hydroxy acids:
• Derived from plants (mostly fruits)
• Acids used in salons exfoliate the skin and
adjust the pH of lotions and creams
*contract and harden the hair
*thioglycolic acid
~ permanent waving solution
•Alkalis
“alkali” and “base”
~ interchangeable
*hydroxide ion
*pH above 7
~ litmus paper from red to blue
*feels slippery and soapy on the skin
*softens and swells
~ hair, skin, cuticle, and calloused skin
*sodium hydroxide (13 or higher on pH scale)
~ lye
~ very strong alkali
~ drain cleaners
~ chemical hair relaxers
Determine how
many times
stronger sodium
hydroxide is to
hair.
FYI
A chemical relaxer is 100,000,000 times
stronger than the hair
• Same strength as Drain cleaner
•Short processing time
•Drying to the hair
•Can disintegrate the hair if too strong for the
hair’s texture
Follow manufacturer’s directions
• Do not let product touch or sit on the skin
• Where safety glasses to avoid eye contact.
• Consult MSDS
Acid-Alkali Neutralization Reactions
• Acids and alkalis in equal proportionsneutralize each other-forms water
• Neutralizing shampoos and normalizing lotions
(used in chemical relaxers) neutralize hair
relaxers
• Liquid soaps neutralize callous softener
residues
A basic understanding of chemistry will help you
use professional products effectively and safely in
the salon.
Acid-Alkali Neutralization Reactions
•acids and alkalis
~ equal proportions
~ neutralize to form water
•neutralizing shampoos/normalizing lotions
~ neutralize hydroxide relaxers
~ acid-alkali neutralization
reaction
The pH scale page 313
•understanding pH
~ select the proper shampoo
•acidic shampoo
~ 0 - 6.9
•alkaline shampoo
~ pH rating of 7.1 or higher
•more alkaline
~ stronger and harsher
•leaves the hair
~ dry
~ brittle
~ porous
~ cause fading in color-treated hair
•slightly acidic shampoo
~ more closely matches the ideal pH of
hair
Focus On…
The pH Scale
• Acid: 0 – 6.9
•Neutral: 7.0
•Alkaline: 7.1 – 14
Project-Litmus paper test
Acid :turns Litmus paper from blue to red
Alkalis: turns Litmus paper from red to blue
Add to the side bar: page 314
The human body is made up of
approximately 70% water and
water covers almost 75% of the
Earth’s surface
The Chemistry of Water
• most abundant and important element
on Earth
• “universal solvent”
~ dissolves more substances than
any other solvent
• fresh water
~ purified by sedimentation
~ filtration
• chlorine is added to kill bacteria
•Boiling
~ 212 degrees F destroys most microbes
•Distillation
~ heat water to a vapor
~ condense the purified vapor
~ collect as a liquid
Duby.unl.edu/chem
• used in the manufacturing of cosmetics
• Water used for:
~ shampooing
~ mixing solutions
~ many other functions
Review:
The Chemistry of Water
•Purification
– Sedimentation
– Filtration
– Chlorine
– Boiling
– Distillation
•classified as hard or soft
Soft water
~ rain water
~ chemically softened water
~ allows soap and shampoo to lather
freely
~ preferred for shampooing
Hard water
~ contains minerals
~ reduced ability of shampoo to lather
readily
~ may change the results of
haircoloring services
***use demineralizing shampoo
The Chemistry of Shampoos
•understand
~ chemical and botanical
ingredients
~ regularly found in shampoo
•Many shampoos have ingredients in
common
•small differences in formulation makes one
shampoo better than another for a
particular hair texture or condition.
•Water is the main ingredient
~ purified
~ deionized
•Usually the first ingredient listed
•Ingredients are listed in descending order
Surfactants
•Second ingredient
~ surfactant
~ base detergent
~ cleansing
~ “surface active agent”
A surfactant molecule has two ends:
~ hydrophilic
~ water attracting “head”
~ lipophilic
~ oil attracting “tail”
Pg.com/science/haircare/hair twh 120.htm
•creates a push-pull process
~ oils, dirt, and deposits
~ roll up into little balls
~ lifted off in the water
~ rinsed from the hair
Other ingredients added to surfactants
~wide variety
•Moisturizers
•Oils
•Proteins
•Preservatives
•Foam enhancers
•Perfumes
http://www.long-healthy-hairadvisor.com/shampoo-ingredients.html
Shampoo
Types of Shampoo
•shampoo product
~ most $ spent in hair care products
•be knowledgeable
~ products you are selling
•skilled in demonstrating their use
Your credibility
~ will be in question if client is better
informed than you are
•shampoos for every type of hair or scalp
condition
~ dry
~ oily
~ fine
~ coarse
~ limp
~ lightened
~ permed
~ relaxed
~ color-treated
~ chemically treated
~ deposit a slight amount of color
~ cleanse build-up or mineral deposits
List of ingredients determines:
~ shiny and manageable
~ treat a scalp or hair condition
~ prepare hair for a chemical
treatment
www.discounthaircareproducts.com/.../t_296.jpg
pH-Balanced Shampoo
•4.5-5.5
•prevents excessive dryness
•hair damage during cleansing
•close the hair cuticle
•Recommended for color treated or lightened
Conditioning Shampoos
• Known as moisturizing shampoos
•make hair appear smooth and shiny
•improve manageability
•contains protein and biotin (conditioning
agents)
Keune.com
These conditioning agents:
~ restore moisture
~ elasticity
~ strengthen the hair shaft
~ add volume
~ non-stripping
Medicated Shampoos
•reducing excessive dandruff
•relieving other scalp conditions
•some prescribed by physician
•quite strong
•could affect the color of tinted or lightened
hair
•Remains on the scalp longer
•always read manufacturer’s
instructions
Healthinajiffy.co.uk
Clarifying Shampoos
•Active chelating agent-binds to metals-removes
from the hair
•Helps retain moisture
•Makes hair more manageable
•used when buildup
is evident (after swimming)
•Use prior to chemical services
**also called chelate shampoos
Viewpoints.com
Matrixbeautiful.com
Balancing Shampoos
•for oily hair and scalp
•wash away excess oiliness
•prevents the hair from drying out
Southyarrahairdressingsupplies.com
Amazon.com
Searchfolica.com
Dry or Powder Shampoos
•wet shampoo uncomfortable
•hard to manage
•use a dry or powder shampoo
•picks up dirt and oils
•brush or comb it through the hair
•adds volume
•follow manufacturer’s instructions
•never use before a chemical service
Shopaholicsdaily.com
Applying Dry Shampoos
•follow manufacturer’s directions
•apply scalp to the ends
•natural bristle brush
~ remove oil and dirt
Color-Enhancing Shampoos
•surfactant base with basic color pigments
•Similar to temporary color rinses
•attracted to porous hair
•slight color change
•removed with plain
shampooing
Beautystore.com
Shampoos for Hairpieces and Wigs
•prepared wig-cleaning solutions are
available
Add to the side bar:
Liquid dry shampoos were used on
hairpieces and wigs in the 1970’s. It is like a dry
cleaning chemical
cdn-www.expertvillage.com/showImage.aspx?site...
Shampooing Clients With Special Needs
•disabilities or wheelchair
~ will tell you how they prefer to be
shampooed
Options:
~ facing the shampoo bowl
~ bending forward
~ towel to protect their face
•some will arrive freshly shampooed
•others need a dry shampoo
•always ask about their preferences
•make their comfort and safety a priority
Understanding Conditioners
•deposit protein or moisturizers
•Restore hair’s strength
•give body
•protect against possible breakage
•temporary remedy or cosmetic fix
•Can only repair hair to a certain extent
Pauljulian.co.uk
•restores luster
•shine
•manageability
•strength
•grows long enough to be cut off
Matrixhaircare.co.u
Hair-style-secrets-revealed.com
Conditioners
~ reconstructor’s
~ hair masks
Hairproducts.com
1.
Rinse-out
Aurel.com
davidanthonyhairstudio.com
*Finishing rinses or
cream rinses
~ rinsed out after worked
through
~ detangling
2. Treatment or repair
~ deep penetrating conditioners
~15-30 minutes
~ restores protein and moisture
*requires longer processing time
~ under a heated dryer for
deeper penetration
Pobox.ph
3. Leave-in
~ applied, not rinsed out
Mysimon.com
Conditioners contain silicone along with:
~ humectants
~ absorb moisture
~ promote the retention of moisture
Silicone
~ reflects light
~ hair appears shiny
•Other ingredients
~ reduce frizz
~ bulk up the hair
Davidanthonyhairstudio.com
Proteins
~ penetrate the cortex
~reinforce the hair shaft
***can buildup
***heavy and oily
***shampoo unnecessarily
***strips the hair protective oils
***creating a vicious cycle
so…
Senseof beauty.net
Sallybeauty.com
***use a gentle shampoo
***little conditioner
*** pass on to client’s
Healthy cuticle:
~ lies down smoothly
~ reflects light
~ shiny
•Conditioners, detanglers, cream rinses
• smooth the cuticle
~ coat the hair shaft
to achieve healthier looking hair
•The cortex
~ 90 % of the hair strand
~ penetrated with protein conditioners
*reinforce the hair shaft from within
~ TEMPORARILY reconstruct the
hair
NOT IN TEXTBOOK: FYI
Instant Conditioners
•remain 1-5 minutes
•left in (“leave-in”)
•improve dry, brittle hair
•pH of 3.5-6.0
•restores the pH
~ alkaline chemical treatment
Add to the side bar in very small lettering:
**more to add on next two slides
•Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are
common ingredients in instant
conditioners, work as pearlizing
agents with a glossy finish
This conditioner has both ingredients listed
within the first 8 ingredients
naturallycurly.com
Add to side bar:
•Lanolin derivatives are often included
in conditioner formulas for fine
hair because of their light
molecular weight
•Add:
•The size of the molecules, the distribution
of molecular weights, how much salt
the product contains, and how the
protein is hydrolized, all determine a
products effectiveness on the hair
Other Conditioning Agents
*Spray-on thermal protectors
~ applied to hair prior to any
thermal (heat) service
*Scalp conditioners
~ cream base
~ soften and improve the
health of the scalp
www.beautybay.com/assets/uploaded/fck/Image/l...
shop.harveynichols.com/.../xlarge/282095_1.jpg
*Medicated Scalp Lotions
~ promotes healing
Add: control dandruff
*Scalp Astringent Lotions
~ remove oil accumulation
~ after scalp treatment
www.atmedica.com.sg/images/product_04.jpg
www.strawberrynet.com/.../03335776701.jpg
~ before styling
Add to the side bar:
•Acid-balanced rinses prevent the fading of
haircolor
•Color rinses add temporary color to the
hair
www.wwbeautystore.com/shopping/color-perm/rou...
Not in Textbook: FYI
Moisturizers (side bar notes later in P.P.)
•heavier and creamier need for test
•15-30 minutes
•more penetrating
•longer staying power
•Quaternary ammonium compounds are
included to attach to hair fibers
•provide longer-lasting protection
Not in Textbook:FYI
Protein Conditioners
Concentrated protein conditioners (brown
liquid)
• increase hair diameter
need for test
• adding body
• improve the tensile strength (stretching
ability)
• temporarily closes split ends
• passes through the cuticle
• penetrates the cortex
•replaces keratin
•improves appearance
•equalizes porosity
•increases elasticity
•not given immediately following a chemical
treatment
~ may alter the desirable rearrangement of
protein bonds formed by perms, relaxers
or haircolor
Deep Conditioning Treatments
~ hair masks
~ conditioning packs
•concentrated protein
~ heavy cream base moisturizer
•equal degree of moisturizing
and protein
www.girlznight.co.uk/.../matrix/mtt18_b.jpg
Side bar notes:
Moisturizers- heavier, creamier formulation-longer
processing time.
Concentrated protein-recognized by brown liquid
appearance.
Masks/packs-are chemical mixtures of concentrated
protein in the heavy cream base of a moisturizer.
Draping
• Client draping is important
• Contributes to the clients safety and comfort
• Wet clothing/haircolor or perm solution on
clothing…completely avoidable with a
professional draping
Two types of draping:
1. Shampoo draping or wet draping
2. Chemical draping
Wet draping-hair styling or haircutting services
Textbook: one towel under cape/one towel over
cape. Remove after shampoo and replace with
a sanex strip.
Mrs. Mandato’s way: plastic piece on clothingtowel-cape
Chemical draping-haircolor/ lightening,
permanent wave and chemical relaxer
services.
Textbook: towel under cape/one towel over cape,
leave on for chemical service.
Mrs. Mandato’s way: plastic piece-towel-cape
Drape for chemical service prior to applying
chemicals.
•FMD-is a shampoo required before a chemical
product
•If shampoo is required…shampoo gently
•Before chemical service is to begin-redrape for
a chemical service.
Three-Part Procedure
Keeps track of what you are doing:
1. pre-service
2. Actual service
3. Post-service
Part one: Pre-service procedure
•Organized step-by-step plan
•Cleaning and disinfecting tools, implements, and
materials
•Setting up your station
•Meeting, greeting, and escorting your client
Part two: Service procedure
•Organized step-by-step plan
for the actual service
Part three:
•Organized step-by-step plan for caring for
your client after the procedure
•Scheduling
•Payment process
•Prepare for next client
Mrs. Mandato:The rest of the slides are Not in Textbook- Important
With each massage movement
~ place the hands under the hair
~ use length of the fingers
~ balls of the fingertips
~ cushions of the palms
~ stimulate the
muscles, nerves,
and blood vessels of
the scalp area
www.glenaffric.info/images/jpeg/shona_5.jpg
Shampoo Procedures
Good posture
~ protect against muscle aches
~ back strain
~ discomfort
~ fatigue
~ other physical problems that can
result from performing shampoos
Flickr.com
Agendamag.com
Zero-flex.com
Correct posture
~ maintain an attractive image
~ always keep your shoulders back
~ avoid slumping over the client
~ hold abdomen in
Free-standing shampoo bowls
~ allow for healthier body alignment
~ help reduce strain on the back and
shoulders
Voip-forum.tmcnet.com
Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair
•drier and more fragile
•use a mild shampoo
•tends to tangle
•use wide-toothed comb
~ gently remove tangles
~ beginning at the nape
~ work your way up
•use a conditioner if necessary
•relaxed or straightened hair needs
moisturizing before drying