1
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1
101
FRAGRANCE
///////////////////
ALL THERE IS TO
KNOW ABOUT
FRAGRANCE:
HISTORY
TECHNIIQUES
OLFACTIVE ANALYSIS
TRENDS
OLFACTIVE
TRAINING
PRESENTED BY SOZIO, INC.
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2
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 2
101
FRAGRANCE
The term perfume is associated with
fragrance - an arousing odor,
pleasant smell, erotica, sensuality.
The French use of the term perfume
dates back to the 16th Century
and is derived from the Latin per"through" + fumare -"to smoke". It
describes the activity used to
spread scent in churches, public
places and homes by burning
aromatic plants -- incense -- and
thus “through smoke”
Today the production of perfume is
part of a multi billion-dollar industry.
In ancient times it also played a
major role in the prosperous trading
of merchandise between the east
and the west.
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3
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 3
101
FRAGRANCE
Smell -- one of the five senses -is the sense that allows us, with the
help of organs in our nose and a
process of memory and associations in
our brain, to recognize our world and
to understand and adapt to our
environment.
It tells us what we like and dislike;
it tells us with whom to fall in love.
It stimulates our appetite and enriches
our eating experience.
It triggers memories and affects our
moods. The lack of it might endanger
our lives or leave us in state of
depression.
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4
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 4
101
FRAGRANCE
Perfume Basics - Perfume is a man
made product, mostly in the form of
liquid, which is composed of several,
sometimes hundreds, of components
that produce a pleasant smell by
having their odor molecules float in the
air. Plants, animals and synthetic
aromatic compounds make up the
source ingredients for the perfume
industry.
The formulas used for creating perfume
are usually carefully guarded secrets –
but almost all perfume manufacturers
have developed a similar technique
that enables the scent of the perfume
to unfold gradually over time.
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5
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 5
HISTORY
&
FRAGRANCE
THE HISTORY OF
PERFUME
The History of Perfume - The history of
the production and use of perfume
stretches back some thousands of
years.
Perfume, incense and the use of scent
were mentioned many times in the
bible, along with remains of records
describing production in ancient
Egypt, the land of Israel, India,
Mesopotamia and in the Far East.
Copyright  2012 Sozio, Inc.
The Greeks, followed by the Romans,
refined the process of production of
aromatic oils and perfumes, and
emphasized the use of them in the
culture of body care.
Islamic scientists, hundreds of years ago,
introduced a process of distilling that
enabled manufacturers to extract
essential oils and fragrances from raw
materials.
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S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 6
SPICE, INCENSE
&
FRAGRANCE
INCENSE
TRADE ROUTES
The Ancient Incense Trade Routes The Perfume and incense trade
route played an important role in
the connection between the East
and the West – providing
commercial activity that also
included the trade of spices and
precious stones.
Fortresses were built in strategic points
along the trade routes in order to protect
the convoys carrying the expensive
merchandise from robbers.
From ancient Arabia and its
neighbors, this route brought
famous aromatic plants such as
frankincense and myrrh to the holy
land, and eventually to the western
world.
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7
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 7
101
FRAGRANCE
Basic classification of perfume is done
using 3 main categories:
•The concentration/dilution level of the
essential oils
•The family to which it belongs
•The notes of the scent
Concentration/Dilution:
Since essential oils are by nature
incredibly concentrated, extremely
toxic and should not be consumed,
inhaled or come in contact with skin,
the mixture of essential oils is diluted
with alcohol and/or with other neutral
odor sources like water, coconut oil,
wax or extracts of jojoba.
This is also done to cut the intensity of
the scent.
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8
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 8
9
101
FRAGRANCE
The Origin/Source of Essential Oils
Plants, animals and synthetic aromatic
compounds make up the source
ingredients for the perfume industry.
Plants – Plants have been the earliest and
the main source of aromatic compounds
in perfume production, primarily because
of their relative ease of accessibility, and
the great variety of odors among them.
The source of aromatic compounds can
come from different parts of the plants.
From flowers like the rose and jasmine,
from resin like frankincense, myrrh and
pine, from bulbs like those of the iris plant,
from bark like cinnamon, from seeds like
Tonka bean, coriander, anise and others,
or from the root like orrisroot. Some
commonly used leaves and twigs are
lavender, sage and rosemary. Cloves are
an example of a flower (in bud form) that
is valued.
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9
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 9
101
FRAGRANCE
Many fruits that elicit enticing odors,
such as cherries and strawberries, are
surprisingly not used in the production
of perfumes. Whenever these
fragrances are achieved they are the
result of synthetic compounds. On the
other hand, the leaves and rind of the
fruit of citrus plants are often used in
the perfume industry.
Copyright  2012 Sozio, Inc.
Some plants have been more difficult
to find or to grow. Plants like myrrh
and frankincense for example were
grown, in the past, only in Somalia and
Southern Arabia; persimmon was
grown in Ein Gedi by the Dead Sea,
some others like cinnamon were
grown in Ceylon and south India,
others in China. Together with the
spices grown in the east, these rare
plants triggered the establishment of
the famous ‘Trade Route’, known also
as the ‘Perfume Route’ or ‘Incense
Route’.
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10
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 0
101
FRAGRANCE
Animals – Animal pheromones have
been used in perfume production for
a number of centuries. Perfumers have
highly valued them for the affect they
have on the perfume compounds,
since they tend to heighten the
intensity of the fragrance. Today,
simulated animal pheromone extracts
are synthetically created in order to
protect endangered animals.
Synthetic compounds – The use of
synthetic aromatic ingredients for
perfume production goes back as far
as the end of the 19th century. The
progress made in the research of
organic chemistry made it possible to
develop new aromatic compounds
that replaced, in many cases, the
more expensive and rare natural
aromatic sources, thus, allowing the
manufacture of perfume for more
reasonable prices.
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11
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 1
101
FRAGRANCE
Aromatic Essential Oils:
Absolutes:
(Derived from flowers, stems, leaves,
barks and fruits)
(Created to remove aromatic
components from a plant which
cannot yield aromatic essential oil)
Examples:
• Orange Oil
• Lavender Oil
• Patchouli Oil
• Sandalwood Oil
Examples:
• Rose
• Jasmine
• Orange Flower
Resins:
Man Made Ingredients:
(Materials which are exuded from a
plant)
Examples:
• Myrrh
• Benzoin
• Fir
• Oakmoss
Commonly called chemicals, varieties
of aromatic sensations, reproduced
synthetically.
Note: Most fragrances are comprised of a combination of natural and synthetic ingredients.
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12
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 2
HOW
FRAGRANCE
IS MADE
METHOD TO
THE MADNESS
Today, fragrance is usually constructed
from a mixture of essential oils and
fragrances, combined with fixatives
and solvents.
The essential oils contain the volatile
fragrance of the component. It is
incredibly concentrated oil which
contains the distinctive aromatic
properties of the plant, in a way, its
essence. The oils are produced usually
through distillation, expression or
solvent extraction.
Copyright  2012 Sozio, Inc.
Copyright  2011 Sozio, Inc.
There are different methods that are
used in order to extract the aromatic
compounds from the raw materials.
The result is often somewhat different
than the original odor since it is
affected by the extracting process.
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13
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 3
101
FRAGRANCE
Perfumes are typically manufactured to
unfold, over time. They are formulated
based on 3 ‘Notes’ – Top Notes, Middle
Notes and Base Notes. Each of these
notes represents a different group of
scents within the perfume’s fragrance.
The fragrance gradually develops over
time as a new note takes over from the
previous note.
Base notes – Are noticed just before
the middle notes fade. They consist
of large and heavier scent
molecules that evaporate slowly
and can be detected even after 24
hours.
The middle and base notes are the
two that are at the core of the
perfume’s fragrance.
Top notes – Give us the first immediate
impression of the fragrance. They are
usually strong, sharp scents. These scents
are made of light molecules and
generally last a matter of 10-30 minutes
before they evaporate.
Middle notes – Are noticed as the top
notes evaporate. They are more
rounded, mellow scents. They usually
appear some 10-45 minutes after
applying the perfume and last longer
than the top notes.
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14
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 4
THE
FRAGRANCE
WHEEL
THE FRAGRANCE
WHEEL
FRAGRANCE FAMILIES:
Each fragrance can be put into a
fragrance family, grouping it with
many other similar fragrances.
Commonly there are Four main
groups (Citrus, Fougere, Oriental and
Chypre), which are then divided into
sub groups.
Feminine fragrances have floral
tones and male fragrances have
Fougere style fragrances.
Copyright
 2011
Sozio,
Inc.
Copyright
 2012
Sozio,
Inc.
www.jesozio.com
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15
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 5
101
FRAGRANCE
Aldehydic
• Aldehyde C-11
• Aldehyde C-12 MNA
Animalic
• Ambrarome Absolute
Aromatic
• Lavender Oil
Balsamic
• Fir Needle Oil
Camphoraceous
• Eucalyptol
Citrus
• Lemon Oil California
• Orange Oil
Green
• Leaf Acetate
Marine
• Calone Solution @10% in DPG
Mint
• Spearmint Oil
Spice
• Eugenol
Sweet
• Vanillin
Wood
• Sandalwood Oil
• Cedarwood Oil
Floral
• Orange Flower
Fruit
• Strawberry Natural Absolute
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16
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 6
101
FRAGRANCE
The common fragrance family groups are listed:
■ Fougère (pronounced ‘foo-jer’): Fougere
fragrances are one of the most popular men’s
families. These will often contain Lavender and
Oakmoss. Examples include: Masculine: Polo Sport
by Ralph Lauren, Platinum Egoiste by Chanel, Cool
Water by Davidoff, Jazz by YSL, Paco Rabanne
pour homme.
■ Floral: The majority of feminine fragrances are
floral. Some are a bouquet of different flowers,
with each individual flower complementing the
others; some use one main flower and
complement it with other notes and accords;
others are very simple and can just be the scent of
a flower alone, which are also called single-note
scents. Examples include: Masculine: Agua
Lavanda by Puig, Insensé by Givenchy Feminine:
Chanel No 19, Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel, L’Air du
Temps by Nina Ricci, Charlie by Revlon.
■ Oriental fragrances are common in both male
and female fragrances. They are often warm,
spicy and sweet and contain ingredients such as
Vanilla and Tonka bean. Sandalwood is also
common in these fragrances. Examples include:
Masculine: Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein,
Joop! Homme by Joop!, Le Male by Jean Paul
Gaultier, Equipage by Hermes, Egoiste by Chanel
Feminine: Jean Paul Gaultier “Classique”, Angel,
Opium by Yves Saint Laurent
Copyright  2012 Sozio, Inc.
■Chypre (pronounced ‘sheep-r’): A Chypre
fragrance contains woody, mossy, and floral
notes. This kind of fragrance will also contain
Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Patchouli,
Bergamot, and Vetiver. Examples include:
Masculine: Givenchy Gentleman, Fendi
Uomo, Vetiver by Guerlain, Aramis, Van
Cleef and Arpels, Quorum by Puig, Antaeus
by Chanel, 212 Men by Carolina Herrera.
Feminine: Cuir de Russe by Chanel, Mitsouko
by Guerlain, Chypre de Coty.
■Marine: The Marine fragrance family is
relatively new and is used to describe scents
that evoke a feeling of the sea air. An
ingredient called calone is used to give the
marine scent.Examples include: Masculine:
Kenzo Pour Homme, L’Eau D’Issey pour
Homme by Issey Miyake, New West for Him
by Aramis Feminine: Escape by Calvin Klein,
Inis by Fragrances of Ireland, Aquawoman
by Rochas.
■Citrus: The earliest colognes were in the
citrus family. Citrus scents are fresh and very
enlivening. Examples include: Masculine:
Eau Sauvage by Dior, D&G Masculine by
Dolce & Gabbana, Happy by Clinique.
Feminine: Cristalle by Chanel, Green Tea by
Elizabeth Arden, Diorella by Christian Dior,
4711 Fragrance by Muelhens.
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17
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 7
101
FRAGRANCE
Drakkar Noir
Created: 1982
by
For: Men
Guy Laroche
Type: Aromatic Fougere
Top Notes
Basil, Rosemary, Verbena,
Lavender
Heart Note
Juniper, Coriander, Cinnamon,
Angelica
Base Note
Oakmoss, Fir, Patchouli, Vetiver
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18
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 8
101
FRAGRANCE
Anais Anais
Created: 1978
by
For: Women
Cacharel
Type: Floral – Muguet
Top notes
Bergamot, Galbanum, Hyacinth,
Honeysuckle
Heart note
Lily, Lily of the Valley, Rose,
Ylang-Ylang
Base note
Cedarwood, Sandal, amber,
Oakmoss
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19
101
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 1 9
FRAGRANCE
Le Male
Created: 1995
by
Gaultier
For: Men
Type: Oriental – Fougere
Top notes
Mint, Lavender, Bergamot
Heart note
Cinnamon, Cumin, Orange,
Blossom
Base note
Vanilla, Tonka, Sandal, Cedar
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20
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 2 0
101
FRAGRANCE
212 Men
Created: 1999
by
Carolina Herrera
For: Men
Type: Chypre
Top notes
Bergamot, Lavender, Green
Heart note
Gardenia, Pepper, Ginger
Base note
Sandalwood, Vetiver, Incense,
Musk
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21
101
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 2 1
FRAGRANCE
L’Eau d’Issey Pour Femme by
Created: 1992
For: Women
Issey Miyake
Type: Marine
Top notes
Lotus, Freesia, Cyclamen, Melon
Heart note
Peony, Carnation, Lily, Lily of the
Valley
Base note
Cedar, Musk, Amber, Sadal
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22
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 2 2
101
FRAGRANCE
4711
by
Created: 1722
Muelhens
For: Unisex
Type: Citrus
Top Notes
Orange Oil, Peach, Basil,
Bergamot And Lemon
Heart Notes
Cyclamen, Lily, Melon, Jasmine
And Bulgarian Rose
Base Notes
Patchouli, Tahitian Vetiver, Musk,
Sandalwood, Oakmoss And
Cedar
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23
THE ABC’S OF
FRAGRANCE
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 2 3
DICTIONARY OF FRAGRANCE TERMS:
An A to Z Glossary of Perfume Lingo
Learn the lingo of fragrance fanatics,
so you can talk like a perfumista.
This glossary defines some commonly
used terms in the world of perfume
and fragrance.
Copyright
 2011
Sozio,
Inc.
Copyright
 2012
Sozio,
Inc.
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28
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 2 8
101
FRAGRANCE
Chanel no.5, an ancient mystery for evermore
history…
“What do I wear in bed? Why, Chanel No. 5, of
course.”
Answered by ever popular with the rich and
sophisticated, Marilyn Monroe.
Interesting and true, the signature fragrance
Chanel No. 5 was created after a fortune teller
told Coco Chanel that her lucky number was five.
It was released on the fifth day of the fifth month
of the year, May 5th 1921. Ernext Beaux also
created four other perfumes for Chanel; they are
the little known Bois d’Illes, No. 22, Cuir de Russie,
and Gardenie. However, Gardenie has recently
been re-released by the House in 2005 with
international acclaim, a scent that fuses jasmine
with musks.
This eighty-something year old fragrance
is one of the best-selling perfumes in the
world. It actually made history as it has
been generated by mixing eighty natural
and artificial scents – and for the first time
people could not identify what it was.
Before Chanel No. 5 was made, perfumes
were just flower scents with poetic names,
and some people consider Chanel No. 5
to be a first real perfume.
The big novelty, however, was the aldehydes. The
legend says that the ‘extensive’ amount of
aldehydes used in Chanel No. 5 was in fact the
result of a mishap in the lab. Whether this is true or
one of many myths created about this icon, who
knows…?
Copyright  2012 Sozio, Inc.
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29
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 2 9
101
FRAGRANCE
Fragrance Collection 11-12
What’s new for 2011-2012? Skin tones and ultra-dark blacks, precious woods, sweet treats, bouquets of white
flowers, optimism…
New for her
Which of the new launches is for you? It’s
true that once again, the fall season offers
an embarrassment of riches. For women
seeking mystery and seduction, Givenchy
unveils Dahlia Noir. For fans of gourmand
scents, the choice is vast: how about
mischief-filled Prada Candy?
INCENSE
TRADE ROUTES
Powdery scents and hues are also in. Check out:
Chanel’s N°19 Poudré, for its blend of iris and
cottony musks. Diesel promises an aphrodisiac effect
for its woodsy-gourmand new fragrance, Loverdose,
which comes in a surprising, multi-facetted heartshaped bottle. Burberry presents Body, a perfume
announced as ‘the most exciting launch we’ve ever
done.’
Several newer luxury houses, like Bottega Veneta and Elie Saab are
entering the world of perfume, and Valentino is making a very visible
comeback, with a perfume christened Valentina.
The stars are back in force, too, including Céline Dion, with Signature;
Beyoncé, with Pulse; Jennifer Lopez, with Love & Light… And let’s not
forget singing sensation Justin Bieber, with his first fragrance for women,
Someday, a huge hit in the USA.
Copyright  2012 Sozio, Inc.
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30
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 3 0
101
FRAGRANCE
Fragrance Collection 11-12
What’s new for 2011-2012? Skin tones and ultra-dark blacks, precious woods, sweet treats, bouquets of white
flowers, optimism…
INCENSE
TRADE ROUTES
For him or for both: what’s new?
For men, the most hyped launch is
probably Jean Paul Gaultier’s Kokorico,
a woody-gourmand scent in a
polymorphous, half-torso, half-face
bottle. Couturiers Dolce & Gabbana
invite men to act ‘Le Fou’ (The Fool);
Hugo Boss suggests smelling ‘Just
Different. And Azzaro has recruited
singer Julian Casablancas for their new
fragrance in a microphone bottle:
Decibel.
There’s also been a lot of attention trained on
the return of Calvin Klein, with ck one shock, a
duo with a rebellious and trendy style. Black
for him; white for her: be careful, these new ck
one’s are not meant to be shared!
The following scents, however, are meant for
him and her to share: Penhaligon’s tonic
Juniper Sling, with its waves of British gin…
Serge Lutens’s angry yet elegant Vitriol
d’œillet, and delicate Eau cHic by Parfums
Nicolaï. As for oud wood, it is still a star in rare
scents. For him or her, Van Cleef’s Precious
Oud reveals oud wood garbed in spicy and
floral tonalities.
The Olfactive Studio has arrived in perfumeries
with a line of photography-inspired unisex
scents christened Chambre Noire (Darkroom),
Still Life and Autoportrait (Self-Portrait). These
fragrances were conceived of collectively,
based on fragranistas’ on-line discussions. A
first!
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31
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 3 1
101
FRAGRANCE
NUDE
FRAGRANCE
TRENDS
Nude & Powdery
Pale beige, skin tones, cream, powder
pink and more: after make-up, nude
tones are coming to perfume. Several
designers have adopted this key color
trend for their bottles or their ads.
For their first fragrances, Bottega
Veneta and Elie Saab, for instance,
respectively went with a somewhat
leathery chypre scent and a whitefloral bouquet.
Copyright  2012 Sozio, Inc.
&
POWDERY
For women who love nude tones,
Valentino has adorned the bottle for
Valentina – a floriental with a white truffle
note – with a floral brooch in a trio of
neutral nude shades. For Givenchy’s
powdery-chypry Dahlia Noir and Nina
Ricci’s L’Air, the shade takes on pinkish
accents.
A chic blend of couture sophistication
and vintage softness emanates from
each of these new scents.
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32
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 3 2
101
FRAGRANCE
FRAGRANCE
TRENDS
Ultra-black
Black is back for men, after an absence of
several years. It’s all over bottles, for everything
from fresh scents to fuller-bodied ones. What’s
new is that designers are pushing the envelope
all the way to absolutely opaque black bottles,
unlike what they were doing until recently.
This ultra-black trend carries a message of
strength and self-confidence, and will suit young
city-dwellers looking for trendy, sexy scents
perfectly. Hugo Just Different, a woody, fresh
and fruity scent, and Armani Code Sport, a
sparkling spicy-citrus scent, are both riding that
wave.
Copyright  2012 Sozio, Inc.
ULTRA
BLACK
But more powerful woody-orientals – like
Gaultier’s Kokorico, Calvin Klein’s ck one
shock for him, and Azzaro’s Decibel, with
cocoa, tobacco and aldehyde facets
respectively – have chosen that color
code, too. Montblanc’s neo-classical
fougère, Legend, also comes in opaque
black.
The intense black trend is still relatively rare
for women. But Cacharel did choose it for
Amor Amor Forbidden Kiss, a coffeeinflected gourmand scent, redolent of the
temptation of forbidden fruit.
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33
S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 3 3
101
FRAGRANCE
OVERDOSE
OF
OPTIMISM
Overdose of Optimism
While economists may say that the crisis isn’t
over yet, designers beg to differ! Fragrance
houses are projecting a massive message of
optimism in their latest launches. Yves Rocher,
for instance, christened their latest perfume
Moment de Bonheur (“Moment of Happiness”).
The gentle, cheerful scent reveals a rose with
green and woody facets. The late-50s, early60s, French New Wave cinema-inspired ad for
Nina Ricci’s L’Air highlights the sense of carefree happiness with charmingly retro music. True
to its name, the more modern and colorful ad
for Kenzo Madly focuses on being madly happy.
Copyright  2012 Sozio, Inc.
Even packaging is all about good cheer
and joie de vivre. Two cases in point:
Prada Candy’s bright pink box with a lighthearted drawing of a young woman, and
the extravagant tulle-topped cap for Vera
Wang’s Lovestruck.
As a trend, optimism is essentially – but not
exclusively – feminine. Paul Smith, has
launched ‘Optimistic’ as a his-and-hers
duo. Twice as many reasons to look at the
bright side!
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S O Z I O , I N C .
P AG E 3 4
101
FRAGRANCE
Fragrance is everywhere. In your
soap, your toothpaste, your
shampoo, your conditioner, your
hairdressing, your deodorant, your
polish, your washing-up liquid, your
washing powder, your make-up,
your hand cream, your lip salve,
your fabric conditioner, your fly
spray, your everything. Even your
fragrance-free things have "odor
neutralizers" in them to take away
their intrinsically nasty smells.
Copyright  2012 Sozio, Inc.
Today the fragrance industry is faced with
so many rules and regulations. What was
once an art is now cripled… but as chemist
and perfume critic Luca Turin wrote:
"Nobody ever died from wearing Mitsouko,
but lots of babies were born as a result of
it.“ With that said enjoy, appreciate and
embrace the world of fragrance!
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101
FRAGRANCE
Odor Identification
This test requires the individual to associate odors with objects or sensations. The
candidate smells the sample and records their odor impression. Partial credit is
given for answers which have an association with the odor, yet do not specifically
identify it. Individuals who score high on this portion of the quiz are good
candidates for panels whose objectives include concept appropriateness,
fragrance modification or preference.
Instructions:
Please identify the odor sample given to you by the instructor. Use as many words
as you need to identify the odor. Partial credit is given for identifying an odor very
similar to the sample.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
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ALL THERE IS TO KNOW ABOUT FRAGRANCE
FRAGRANCE 101
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