Woven Fabric Structure (1)
Plain and Twill
Dr. Jimmy Lam
Institute of Textiles & Clothing
Learning Objectives
What is woven structure?
 Fabric properties of plain weave;
 Fabric properties of twill weave;

Woven Structure




Apart from the fabric density (warp and weft per inch); yarn
count; selvedge and fabric weight, woven structure plays an
important role in fabric quality.
The manner in which groups of warp yarns are raised by the
harness to permit insertion of the weft yarn determines the
pattern of weave is called woven structure.
Weave pattern (woven structure) affects the fabric durability
and appearance.
There are THREE basic weaves used for the majority of
fabrics and they are :1) Plain; 2) Twill and 3) Satin structure
1) Plain Weave
Plain Weave




Plain weave is the simplest and most used weave.
It found in a wide range of fabrics such as gauze,
gingham, taffeta, poplin and canvas.
Plain weave fabrics require only TWO hardness
because the weave repeats every two ends (1/1)
Fabric with a plain weave is reversible (face and back
are the same), unless one side is chosen as the face by
finishing or printing
Plain Weave
1/1 plain weave
Plain weave on graph paper
Plain Weave
Characteristics





Plain weave fabric has firm construction. It wears well and
ravels less than other weaves.
It provides a good background for printed and embossed
design.
Plain weave tends to wrinkle more than other weaves.
Frequently interlacing of plain weave (50% up and 50%
down) does not allow yarns to relieve stress from the bent
fibres/yarns.
Plain weave fabric has lower tear strength than others
because when tearing a plain weave fabric, the yarn breaks
one at a time.
Plain Weave
Ribbed or Corded Plain weave




The ribbed or corded effect is caused by the
variations of plain weave.
The rib may be produced in the warp or weft by
alternating fine yarns with coarse yarns; or by
single yarns with double yarns.
Warp ribbed fabrics are referred as corded effect
Weft ribbed effect is produced when the weft
yarns are thicker than warp weft.
Ribbed Plain Fabric
Warp ribbed (corded) fabric,
coarse warp yarn than weft yarn
Weft ribbed fabric, coarse weft
yarn than warp yarn
Plain Weave
Basket and Hopsack Weave




Basket weave is made by using groups of two or
more warp yarns interlacing as one yarn with groups
of two or more weft yarns as one yarn.
It is a decorative weave and most of them are made
with low yarns per inch and with low twist yarns to
increase the weave effect.
This type of fabrics tends not to be durable and will
easily shrink in washing.
Two well-known basket weave structures are hopsack
and Oxford. Oxford is 2 x 1 basket weave
Plain Weave Derivate: Basket Weave
2 x 2 Basket Weave
Plain Weave Derivate: Basket
Weave
2 x 2 Basket Weave
Plain Weave Derivate: Oxford Cloth
2 x 1 basket weave
2) Twill Weave
Twill Weave





A distinct design for the twill weave is it form a
diagonal line.
In the right-hand twill, the diagonals run towards to the
right.
In the left-hand twill, the lines run towards to the left.
Although there is no advantage of one over the other,
the direction of the diagonal line can aid in recognition
of the face of the fabric.
Denim, gabardine and chino are well-known twill
weave fabrics
Twill Weave: Right and left hand twill line
Balanced 2/2 Right-hand Twill Weave
Warp Face 2/1 Twill Weave
Twill Variations
Fabric A: 2/2 balanced twill
Fabric B:2/1 warp-faced twill
Fabric C:1/2 weft-faced twill
Twill Weave (II)






Twill weaves are named according to the number of hardness
required to make the design.
The simplest twill weave is either ½ or 2/1 twill (three-leaf
twill)
A 3/1 or 1/3 twill are called four-leaf twill.
Twill weaves are classified as balanced or unbalanced
according to the number of warp and weft yarns are visible on
the face of fabric.
The balanced twill, e.g. 2/2 shows an equal number of warp
and weft yarns in the design.
Other twills are unbalanced (warp or weft face), which
produces a more obvious twill line and a more abrasionresistant surface
Twill Weave (III)



The diagonal line of twill fabric can be changed
according to design.
In a twill weave, the succeeding warp yarn to the right
has the corresponding interlacing one weft yarn higher,
the weave is 45 degree right hand twill.
If the corresponding interlacing on the succeeding
warp yarn is two weft yarns higher or lower, a 63
degree twill weave is produced.
Example of 2/1 right hand twill
Yarn interlacing
Point Paper
Degree of Twill Angle
Twill Weave (IV)
A fabric with a 45 degree twill weave has 45
degree diagonal line only when the yarns per
inch in the warp and the weft are the same.
 Usually there are more yarns per inch in the
warp, so that most 45 degree twill weaves have
diagonals of more than 45 degree.
 The steepness of the diagonal can indicate
strength and durability in the fabric.

Discussion
What is basket weave and why they are
normally made by low twist yarns?
 Why plain weave is normally used for printed
fabric?
 What are the fabric characteristics of twill
weave? What are balanced and unbalanced twill
weaves?

Discussion

Other than by dyeing and printing, indicate
three ways by which a fabric woven with the
plain weave may be given added surface
interest.