Chapter Two:
Elementary Weaves (Fundamental
Weaves)
2.1 General Characteristics.
2.2 Plain Weave
2.3 Twill Weaves
2.4 Sateen/Satin Weaves
2.1 General Characteristics.
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1. The shift of the weaves is constant.
2. The fundamental weaves are such weaves in
which every warp and every weft thread within
the repeat overlaps or is overlapped only by one
thread of the opposite system. It means that, in
fundamental weaves any weft or warp thread
must have only one warp or weft overlapping
within the repeat.
2.2 Plain Weave
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1）concept: This is the
simplest weave. In this weave
the threads interlace in alternate
order, i.e. the first warp thread
overlaps the first weft thread
(Fig. 2.1) and passes under the
second weft thread, and the
second warp thread passes
under the first weft thread and
overlaps the second one, and so
on.
Fig. 2.1 Plan weave and section diagram
Plain weave
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2）Parameters: Repeat (R)= 2,Shift (S)= 1
3) Weaving plan: straight draft or skip
straight and tappet shedding is enough.
4) Properties: The fabric made from plain
weave is firmer and stronger.
5) Applications: poplin, voile, lawn, flannel,
panama, crepe etc.
course plain
Printed poplin
cotton calico
2.3 Twill Weaves
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1) Concept:
The most characteristic of twill is that they
have diagonal lines on the cloth.
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2）Parameters:
R ≥3; So =Sy =±1
The twill weaves are expressed in the form of a
fraction. The numerator of the fraction is equal to the
number of warp overlaps and the denominator is equal to
the number of weft overlaps within the repeat. The sum of
the numerator and denominator of this fraction is the
repeat of the twill.
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Such as 3/1, 1/3, 2/1, 4/1.
Some concept about the
twill weaves:
warp-face twill,
weft-face twill,
right-hand twill,
left-hand twill.
Weft-face &
right-hand
twill
Warp-face
&left-hand
twill
R=4
R=4
Sy=1
Sy=-1
3) Weave diagram drawn
Example :
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Draw a twill weave
① Calculating the repeat R, of 2/1↗
drawing the outline, and
a: repeat R=3, and draw the outline
giving the number.
② Drawing the first end
according to the fraction
■■
given.
■ ■
■■
③Drawing the other ends
depended on the shift.
b: draw the first end
c: and the other ends
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4) Weaving plan
Straight draft
5) Properties:
Good aesthetic properties;
Used for ornamentation;
Softer than plain weaves
6) Applications:
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denim, jean, flannel, gabardine, whipcord,
glen check, drill.
Same samples
T/C Blended twill
T/C Blended Drill
Home work:
1. Drawing the following weave diagrams, and
indicates the warp face twill or weft face twill.
1/3↗, 4/1↖ 2/1↗ , 3/1↗
2. Listing 5 fabrics made from plain weave and 5
fabrics made from twill weave.
2.4 Sateen/Satin Weaves
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1）concept:
The characteristic of the sateen/satin weave
is that they have a smoothness and lustrous
fabric surface.
Sateen weaves have a weft effect and satin
weaves have a warp effect
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2) parameters:
R ≥5 and R≠6
1 ﹤ S ﹤(R-1)
R and S must be expressed by prime numbers
 The sateen weave is denoted by a fraction. But the
meaning is different from that of twill. The numerator
of this fraction is equal to the repeat of weave. The
denominator is equal to the shift (Sy) of overlaps.
Examples:
Figures A, B represent
sateen 5/3 and 7/3.
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A ―Sateen 5/3
B ― sateen 7/3
And they are also called 5 ends(5 shafts) sateen and 7 ends
(7 shafts) sateen.
3) weave drawn:
①Drawing the outline
according to the repeat,
and giving the number of
the threads.
② Drawing the first end or
pick. (Satin for first end,
sateen for first pick).
③Drawing the other ends or
picks according to the shift
■■■ ■
■ ■■■
■■■■
■■ ■■
■■■■
Here is an example of 5/3 satin
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4) Weaving plan
Straight draft
5) Properties: softness, smoothness, lustrous.
6) Applications: satin-back gabardine,
doeskin cloth, satin-back crepe, satin drill,
light weight linings, slippers, bridal gowns.
Some samples
Home works:
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Drawing the following weave diagram:
5/3 sateen, 8/3 sateen, 5/3 satin, 11/3 sateen.