COMMUNICATING
FOR SUCCESS
Haircutting
1.4
9.1
Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program
HAIRCUTTING
• Haircutting is the single most important service
you must master as a professional
cosmetologist.
• A good haircut serves as the foundation of
almost every other service in the salon.
• Most people avail themselves of regular
haircuts, which makes it a tremendous source of
revenue and repeat business.
PRINCIPLES OF HAIRCUTTING
• You need to develop an understanding of the
important steps of the haircutting process.
• These principles include:
– Sectioning
– Combing
– Elevating
– Cutting the ends
– Expected and predictable results for every
action or technique used.
ANATOMY OF THE SKULL
REFERENCE POINTS
• Understanding the reference points helps ensure
balance with the design.
• The reference points allow you to re-create the
haircut again and again.
• The reference points allow you to know where and
when to change technique, and to make up for
irregularities such as a flat crown.
REFERENCE POINTS
•
•
•
•
Parietal ridge
Occipital bone
Apex
Four corners
PARIETAL RIDGE
• The widest area of the
head
• Found by placing a
comb flat on the head at
the sides
• Where the head starts
to curve away from the
comb
• Also known as the crest
OCCIPITAL BONE
• The bone that
protrudes at the base
of the skull
• Found by feeling the
skull, or placing a
comb flat against the
nape area and
observing where the
comb leaves the head
APEX
• The highest point on
the top of the head
• Located by placing a
comb flat on the top
of the head
FOUR CORNERS
Can be located in two ways:
– Place two combs flat against
side and back; locate the
back corner at the point
where the two combs meet.
– Make two diagonal lines
crossing the apex of the
head, pointing directly to the
front and back corners.
AREAS OF THE HEAD
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Top
Front
Side
Crown
Nape
Back
Fringe (bangs area)
LINES AND ANGLES
• Every haircut is made up
of lines and angles.
• Line is a thin continuous
mark used as a guide.
• Angle is the space
between lines or surfaces
that intersect at a given
point.
• The head is made up of
curved and straight lines
or surfaces.
STRAIGHT LINES
• There are three types
of straight lines in
haircutting:
– Horizontal
– Vertical
– Diagonal
HORIZONTAL LINES
• Parallel to the floor
• Direct the eye from one
side to the other
• Used in one-length and
low-elevation haircuts
• Build weight
VERTICAL LINES
• Up and down
• Perpendicular to the floor
• Used to create graduated
or layered haircuts and
used with higher
elevations
• Remove weight
DIAGONAL LINES
• Between horizontal and
vertical
• Slanting or sloping
direction
• Used to create beveling
(cutting the ends at a
slight taper to create
fullness)
• Used to create stacking
and to blend long layers
to short layers
ANGLES
• Basic geometry is
important to
haircutting because
this is how shapes
are created.
• Angles are important
in elevation and
cutting line.
ELEVATION
• The angle or degree at which a subsection
of hair is held or elevated from the head
when cutting is called elevation.
• Below 90 degrees builds weight.
• Above 90 degrees removes weight or
layers the hair.
CUTTING LINE
• The angle where the fingers are held when
cutting, and the actual line that is being cut.
• It is also called the finger angle, finger position,
cutting position, cutting angle, and shears angle.
GUIDELINES
• Also called a guide
• Section of hair that determines length the
hair will be cut
• Located at either the perimeter or the interior
of the cut
• Usually the first section cut
STATIONARY GUIDE
• Guide does not move.
• All other sections are
combed to this guide
and cut at the same
angle or length.
• A blunt cut is an
example.
TRAVELING GUIDE
• It is also called a movable guide.
• This guide moves as the haircut
progresses.
• When using this type of guide,
take a small slice of the previously
cut section and move it to the next
subsection where it becomes the
new guide.
• Is used often in layered haircuts.
BLUNT or ONE–LENGTH CUT
90-DEGREE ELEVATION
45-DEGREE ELEVATION
OVERDIRECTION
• Overdirection occurs
when hair is combed
away from its natural
falling position.
• It is used in graduated
and layered haircuts.
CLIENT CONSULTATION
• Have a conversation with your client to find out
what the client is looking for.
• You can offer suggestions and professional
advice, and come to a decision about the most
suitable haircut.
• The desired look may include:
–
–
–
–
what the client wants.
time available for maintenance.
client’s lifestyle.
classic or trendy preference.
THE FACE SHAPE
• Pull hair away with clip
• Note length and width of
the face
• Note the balance of
features:
 Weight
 Volume
 Profiles
HAIR ANALYSIS
• Density—number of individual hairs per square inch on
scalp
• Texture—the general quality and feel of the hair
• Wave pattern—amount of movement in the hair
• Hairlines and growth patterns—cowlicks, whorls, and
other growth patterns affect where the hair ends up
once it is dry
Tools
Body Positions
Safety
HAIRCUTTING SHEARS
• Shears are used to
cut blunt or straight
lines as well as for
other techniques.
• The terms shears and
scissors may be used
interchangeably.
THINNING SHEARS
• Used to remove bulk from hair
• Also called texturizing shears, tapering
shears, or notching shears
RAZORS
• Used when a softer
effect is desired on
hair ends
• Can be used for
entire haircuts, to thin,
and to texturize areas
• Can be used with or
without guards
CLIPPERS AND EDGERS
• Clippers are used for
creating short tapers,
short haircuts, fades, flat
tops, or to shave hair off
right to the scalp
• Edgers are a smaller
version of clippers; mainly
used to remove excess or
unwanted hair at the
neckline and around
ears.
COMBS
• Styling or cutting comb is also
called an all-purpose comb.
• Barber comb is used for close
tapers in the nape and sides
when using the shears-overcomb technique.
• Wide-tooth comb is mainly
used to detangle hair.
• Sectioning clips are available
in a variety of shapes, styles,
and sizes.
HOLDING SHEARS
• Proper placement of
fingers and thumb
STILL AND MOVING BLADES
• Practice opening and
closing shears.
• Concentrate on
moving thumb only.
PALMING THE SHEARS
• Remove thumb from
finger grip leaving ring
and little fingers in the
grip and finger rest.
• Curl fingers in to “palm”
the shears to keep them
closed while you comb or
part hair.
PALMING THE SHEARS

While palming shears, hold
comb between thumb,
index, and middle fingers.
TRANSFERRING THE COMB
• Get your fingers in
place at the correct
cutting position.
• Transfer the comb by
placing it between the
thumb and index
finger of your holding
hand.
HOLDING THE RAZOR
METHOD A
• Open razor (handle
should be higher than
shank); place thumb on
thumb grip and the
index, middle, and ring
fingers on shank.
HOLDING THE RAZOR
 Place little finger in
the tang.
 When cutting,
position razor on
top of the
subsection with the
part facing you.
HOLDING THE RAZOR
METHOD B
•
•
Open razor so handle
and shank form a
straight line.
Place thumb on grip
and wrap fingers
around the handle.
HOLDING THE RAZOR
• When palming the
razor, curl your ring
finger and little
finger to palm razor.
• Hold comb between
thumb, index, and
middle fingers.
TENSION
• This is the amount of pressure applied when
combing and holding a subsection.
• It is created by stretching or pulling the
subsection.
• It ranges from minimum to maximum.
• Finer, closer teeth of the comb produce more
tension.
CUTTING OVER YOUR
FINGERS
• This hand position is
used most often when
cutting uniform or
increasing layers.
• Stand to the side of
the section on which
you are working.
CUTTING BELOW FINGERS
• Use a horizontal cutting
line.
• Cut below the fingers
or the inside of the
knuckles.
• Use generally when
cutting a one-length
bob or a heavier
graduated haircut.
CUTTING PALM TO PALM
• The palms of both
hands are facing each
other while cutting.
• Use when cutting a
vertical cutting line.
• Also use when cutting
a diagonal cutting line.
• This helps to prevent
strain on your back as
you work.
SAFETY IN HAIRCUTTING
• Always palm shears and razor when combing or parting
hair.
• Do not cut past second knuckle.
• Take extra care cutting around the ears.
• When cutting bangs or any area close to the skin,
balance shears by placing tip of index finger of
nondominant hand on the pivot screw and the knuckles
of the nondominant hand against the skin.
• Always use razor guard.
• Dispose of razor blades carefully.
SANITATION AND
DISINFECTION PROCEDURES
• Wash hands with soap and water.
• Sweep up cut hair and dispose of properly before
proceeding with service.
• Drape client properly.
• Sanitize combs, brushes, shears, clips, and other
implements after each haircut.
• Replace blade in razor prior to each client.
• Discard blades in puncture-proof container
• Maintain shears properly.
• Sanitize workstation after each haircutting service.
SUMMARY
• It is very important to develop strong haircutting skills.
• A good haircut serves as the foundation for numerous
other services.
• We have the relevance of understanding the anatomy of
the head, elevations, angles, and degrees.
• The five characteristics of hair (density, texture, wave
pattern, hairlines, and growth pattern) play an important
role in your ability to create a quality haircut.
• As in all services, it is important to practice proper
sanitation and disinfection procedures for haircutting
services.
• There is much more to learning how to cut hair.
BASIC HAIRCUTS
BLUNT HAIRCUT
• This is also known as a
one-length haircut, zeroelevation cut, or noelevation cut.
• All hair comes to one
hanging level, forming a
weight line or area.
• Stationary guide is used.
• This is a good cut for fine,
thin hair.
GRADUATED HAIRCUT
• There is a visual
buildup of weight.
• Ends appear to be
“stacked.”
• Traveling guide is
used.
LAYERED HAIRCUT
• Is usually cut at a 90degree elevation
• Has less weight than
graduated cuts
• Creates movement
and volume
• Traveling and
stationary guide can
be used
LONG LAYERED HAIRCUT
• This haircut is cut at a
180-degree elevation.
• It gives volume to
styles.
• It can be combined
with other cuts.
• Layers increase from
short to longer toward
the perimeter.
GENERAL HAIRCUTTING TIPS
• Take consistent and clean partings.
• Take care with crown and neckline.
• Take care around ears.
• Use consistent tension.
• Pay attention to head position.
• Maintain even moisture.
• Always work with the guideline.
GENERAL HAIRCUTTING TIPS
• Always cross-check the haircut by parting the haircut in
the opposite way from which you cut it to check for
precision of line.
• Use mirror to see elevation.
• Stand in front to check side length.
• Remember curly hair shrinkage; it will shrink anywhere
from ½ to 2 inches.
• Maintain correct body and hand posture.
OTHER BLUNT HAIRCUTS
• The A-Line Bob
• A diagonal cutting line
is used.
OTHER BLUNT HAIRCUTS
• Long Blunt Cut
• Hair is held
between fingers
with little tension.
BLUNT CUTS
• Blunt Cut on Curly
Hair
• Hair naturally
“graduates” itself
when dry.
BLUNT CUTS
• Classic Pageboy
• Perimeter is curved,
using a combination
of horizontal and
curved lines.
TIPS FOR BLUNT HAIRCUTS
• Use minimal or no tension.
• Work with natural growth patterns.
• Comb section twice before cutting.
• Maintain even moisture.
• Take precautions around ears.
SUMMARY
• We have learned about one of the simplest and
most popular haircuts you will be expected to
perform on a regular basis in the salon.
• The four basic types of haircuts are blunt,
graduated, layers, and long layers.
• Cross-checking is parting the hair in the
opposite way from which you cut it to check for
precision of line and shape.
THE GRADUATED HAIRCUT
•
•
Also known as the 45-degree
elevation
Implements and materials:
• Towels
• Shampoo cape
• Shampoo and conditioner
• Cutting cape
• Wide-tooth comb
• Cutting or styling comb
• Four sectioning clips
• Haircutting shears
• Water spray bottle

Preparation:
• Perform consultation
• Drape for shampooing
• Shampoo and condition
hair
• Towel-dry hair
• Escort client back to
chair and drape for
haircut
THE CLASSIC GRADUATED
BOB
• Vidal Sassoon made
this cut popular.
• Diagonal sections and
finger angles are
used to create a
rounded or beveled
effect.
THE CLASSIC GRADUATED
BOB
• Begin in the back using
a 45-degree elevation
throughout and gradually
incorporate the sides
and top.
• If hairline grows up, use
the shears-over-comb
technique to blend it.
SHORTER SHAPE ROUNDED
WEIGHT
• This haircut is created
using diagonal partings
that connect at the back
of the ear.
• In front of the ear, the
diagonal partings point
down toward the face.
• Behind the ear, the
diagonal partings point
down toward the back.
SHORTER SHAPE ROUNDED
WEIGHT
• Sides are elevated
and overdirected to
the back of the ear,
producing more
length toward the
face.
• The back is cut using
a traveling guideline,
with each section
overdirected to the
previous section.
TIPS FOR GRADUATED CUTS
• Keep elevation below 45 degrees when working with
coarse textures and curly hair.
• Fine hair responds well to graduation; it builds weight
and can make thin or fine hair appear thicker and fuller.
• If hair is both fine and thin, avoid creating heavy weight
lines
• Softer graduation, using diagonal partings, will create a softer
weight line.
• Check neckline; if hair grows up, leave longer so that it falls below
the hairline; use shears-over-comb technique for tricky hairlines.
• Always use fine teeth of comb and maintain even tension to ensure
a precise line.
90-DEGREE HAIRCUT
• This cut is created with uniform layers.
• All the hair is elevated to 90 degrees and cut at the
same length.
• Your guide for the haircut is an interior traveling
guideline.
• An interior guideline is inside the haircut rather than
on the perimeter.
• The resulting shape will appear soft and rounded with
no built-up weight or corners.
• The perimeter of the hair will fall softly because of the
vertical sections on the interior that reduce weight.
LONG LAYERED 180DEGREE CUT
•
•
•
•
•
This haircut uses increased layering.
It features progressively longer layers.
Your guide is an interior guide.
Start at the top of the head.
All remaining hair will be elevated up to
180 degrees to match the guide.
MEN’S SQUARE
• Keep the “corners” by
keeping fingers
vertical and not
following the head
form, thereby you
create a square
shape.
• This is common in a
man’s basic haircut.
THE “SHAG”
• This haircut is created with longer perimeter
lengths by cutting the top area the same as
for uniform layers.
• Elevate the side and back sections straight
up at 180 degrees to blend with the top
length.
TIPS FOR LAYERED HAIRCUTS
• Cut the interior first, then go back to the perimeter edges and cut
stronger lines, cut around the ears, or texturize where needed.
• Do not cut thin hair too short because it can expose the scalp.
• Do not cut coarse hair shorter than 3 inches; it needs length to hold it
down.
• Do not cut top layers too short; it may take too much hair away from
the rest of the haircut, and may leave you with a collapsed shape
that is stringy at the bottom.
• Use slide cutting to connect top sections to the lengths; it will
maintain maximum length and weight at the perimeter of the haircut.
TIPS FOR CUTTING CURLY HAIR
• For every 1/4 inch you cut when the hair is wet, it
will shrink up to one inch when dry.
• Too much tension will stretch the hair more and
cause more shrinkage.
• Curly hair naturally “graduates” itself.
• Leave lengths longer, which ultimately helps weigh
the hair down and keeps the shape from shrinking
or ending up too short.
• Do not use a razor; it can weaken the cuticle and
cause hair to frizz.
• Choose texturizing techniques carefully.
CUTTING THE FRINGE (Bangs)
• The fringe is the hair
that lies between the
two front corners.
• A stationary guide
may be used.
• Elevate hair to 90
degrees straight up
from head to create
the fringe.
SHORT FRINGE
• It makes a strong
statement.
• It can be combined with a
shorter layered haircut.
• The line can be curved.
• Cut with a low elevation
and it will remain more
solid-looking and not too
heavy.
LONG FRINGE CUT
• Used with slide
cutting, it will create a
wispy effect that
blends with long
layers.
OF
FRINGE AREA
• This keeps hair out of
face.
• You might even use a
razor.
TO BLEND OR NOT TO BLEND
• If working with a blunt
haircut, fringe is
usually one length.
• If working with
layered or graduated
shapes, the length of
the fringe is usually
blended into the sides
and/or top.
RAZOR CUTTING
• A softer appearance is
created when cutting with
the razor.
• Hair is cut with one, fine
blade.
• Good for medium to fine
textures.
• The guide is above the
fingers.
• Razor cutting is an entirely
different experience from
cutting with shears.
Razor-cut and shears-cut strands
RAZOR CUTTING
• Razor cutting parallel
to subsection
• Hand position on
cutting a vertical
section
RAZOR CUTTING TIPS
• Avoid using on coarse, wiry, curly, or damaged
hair.
• Always use a guard.
• Always use a new blade.
• Keep hair wet.
• Work with razor at an angle.
• Never force razor through the hair.
SLIDE CUTTING
• This is a method of
cutting or thinning the
hair.
• Fingers and shears glide
along edge of hair to
remove length.
• It blends shorter lengths
to longer lengths.
• It is useful in texturizing.
• Perform only on wet hair
with razor-sharp shears.
SHEARS-OVER-COMB
• Hair is held in place with comb.
• Tips of shears remove length.
• This creates short tapers.
• It is best on dry hair.
• Lift hair with comb and let comb act
as guide.
• Do not hold hair between fingers.
• Let shears and comb move
simultaneously up the head.
• Strive for continual motion.
SHEARS-OVER-COMB STEPS
• Stand directly in front of
section.
• Use proper comb placement.
• Move comb up the head.
• Angle comb to blend with
longer hair.
• Follow shears-over comb tips:
– Work with small areas.
– Start at hairline and work
up.
– Cross-check your work.
– Use barber comb for close
areas.
TEXTURIZING
• The process of removing excess bulk without shortening
the length
• To cut for effect within the hair length, causing wispy or
spiky effects
• Can be used to add volume, remove volume, make hair
“move,” and blend one area into another
• Used to compensate for different densities that exist
within the same head of hair
• Can be done with cutting shears, thinning shears, or
razor
POINT CUTTING
• This is a technique
performed on the
ends of the hair using
the tips or points of
the shears.
• It can be done on wet
or dry hair.
• Hold hair one to two
inches from ends.
• Point tips into ends
with palm facing away
from you.
NOTCHING
• This is another version of
pointcutting.
• It is more aggressive and
creates a chunkier effect
than point cutting.
• Hold section about three
inches from ends.
• Place tips about two
inches from ends.
• Close shears moving
quickly toward ends.
FREE-HAND NOTCHING
• Also uses tips of shears
• Shears not slid
• Pieces snipped out
randomly
• Generally used
throughout interior of
haircut
• Works well on curly hair
SLITHERING OR EFFILATING
• This process thins the
hair to graduated lengths
with shears.
• Hair strand is cut by a
sliding movement of the
shears, with blades
partially opened.
• It reduces volume and
creates movement.
SLICING
• This removes bulk
and adds movement
through the lengths of
the hair.
• Shears are never
closed completely.
• Use only blade near
pivot.
CARVING
• This creates a visual
separation in the hair.
• Works best on short hair.
• Place still blade into the
hair and rest it on the
scalp.
• Move shears through the
hair; gently open and
partially close shears as
you move.
CARVING THE ENDS
• Add texture and separation to the perimeter
of a haircut by holding the ends of a small
strand between your thumb and index fingers,
and carving a surface of that strand.
• Begin carving three inches from ends toward
your fingers.
TEXURIZING WITH THINNING
SHEARS
• Remove bulk or
weight.
• On coarse hair, stay
farther from scalp.
• Avoid cutting on top
for blunt cuts.
• Technique can be
done on thin and thick
hair; it helps taper the
perimeter.
TEXURIZING WITH THINNING
SHEARS
• Thinning shearsover-comb is useful
for blending weight
lines.
• Any texturizing
technique done with
the shears can be
done with thinning
shears.
TEXTURIZING WITH A RAZOR
• This removes weight; use
on damp hair.
• Can use free-hand slicing
throughout the section or
at the ends, and should
do so on wet hair.
• The more vertical the
movement, the less hair
you remove.
• The more horizontal the
movement, the more hair
you remove.
RAZOR-OVER-COMB
• Both comb and razor
used on hair surface
• Softens weight lines
and causes the area
to lie closer to the
head
• Used mainly on
shorter haircuts
CLIPPERS
Clipper uses:
• Electric devices that cut • To remove hair
hair by using two moving
completely
blades held in place by a
metal plate with teeth
• To taper hairlines from
short lengths into longer
• The blade action faster
lengths
than the eye can see
• Mainly used for shorter
haircuts
• With length guards, to cut
all hair to equal lengths
CLIPPERS
• Available in different sizes and
shapes
• Used with or without
attachments
• Edgers, also called trimmers—
usually cordless and mainly
used to clean necklines and
around ears and hairline
• Clean after each use with a
clipper brush
• Disinfect the detachable blade
and heel after each use as well
TOOLS FOR CLIPPER CUTTING
• Clippers
• Length guard attachments
• Haircutting shears, used mainly for removing length and
detailing the haircut
• Thinning shears, also called blending or tapering shears; great
for removing excess bulk and for blending one area with another
• Combs: wider-spaced teeth for combing and cutting; finerspaced teeth for detailing and shears-over-comb technique
• Barbering comb for the nape, sides, and around ears; also
allows you to cut hair very short and close to head
CLIPPER-OVER-COMB
TECHNIQUE
• Be at eye level with the area you
are cutting.
• Place comb, teeth first, into
hairline, and turn comb so that
teeth are angled slightly away
from head.
• Always work against growth
patterns for even cutting.
• Hold comb stationary.
• Stop to cut section; movements
should be fluid and continuous.
CLIPPER CUTTING WITH
ATTACHMENTS
• Using length guard is a quick and easy way to
create short haircuts.
• Use the ¼-inch guide in nape and sides.
• Switch to 2-inch guide as you reach the parietal
area; this produces more length in the parietal
area and a square shape.
EDGERS AND TRIMMERS
– When cutting around ears, use
both hands to hold the edger
sideways.
– Use outer edge on the skin; arc
the edger up and around the
ear.
– When cutting hair at the
neckline, clean up hair on the
neck that grows below the
design line.
– Edgers also help create more
defined lines at the perimeter.
TIPS FOR CLIPPER CUTTING
• Work against natural growth pattern.
• Work with small sections, no more than 3 inches
wide.
• Angle of comb determines the cutting angle
when using the clipper-over-comb technique.
TRIMMING FACIAL HAIR
• Clippers and edgers can be
used to trim beards and
mustaches.
• The technique is similar to
shears/clippers-over-comb.
• Length guard attachments
may be used.
• Facial hair is very coarse
and may dull your
haircutting shears.
• Ear hair may be trimmed
with caution.
SUMMARY
• You should now be aware that your tools as a
haircutter are every bit as important as the tools
of a great chef or even a surgeon.
• Each tool has a specific purpose.
• Learning how to use these tools effectively and
efficiently will enhance your creative skills in
designing new looks for your clients.
SUMMARY
• Haircutting is a skill requiring imagination and
many hours of practice.
• You must remember that once something is
cut off, you cannot put it back.
• It is important that you begin slowly by
working on mannequins to build your
confidence.
• Practice holding the various cutting
implements until you are comfortable.
SUMMARY
• Begin observing people and pictures, and
try to visualize in your mind’s eye what type
of elevation was used to create the style.
• Drills and timed repetitions will be essential
to your skills development.
• Take pride in your work and shoot for
perfection.
• Once your techniques and skills have
achieved a high level of quality, you can
begin to work on your speed.