3.2.5 Angled twills
1. Concept
The angled twill is constructed by changing the sign of
shift from plus to minus after a given number of threads.
(Recalling that reinforced twill is constructed by extending floats; elongated
twill by changing the shift; curved twill by using an alternating shift)
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The appearance of the fabric like
an angle, so it is called angled
twill. See Fig.3.21.
Angled twill weave can be
divided into vertical angled twill
and horizontal angled twill.
Vertical angled twill
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The vertical angled twill has two
diagonal lines which are symmetrical
about a predetermined warp thread.
How to construct vertical
angled twill:
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First, the size (repeat) of the angle needs to
be determined.
RO= 2K O  2
Where KO is the number of warp threads
after which the sign of shift changes.
2. Weave drawn:
(1) Calculating the repeat:
Ro=2Ko-2
Ry=Ryb
(2) Drawing the ends from 1 to Ko
based on the basic twill
(3) Drawing the others based on
the changing sign of shift.
 Example: construct the angled twill on
the base twill
31
2 2
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3. Weaving plan
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Pointed draft is used for the angle twill.
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4. Applications
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Angled twills are widely used for lady’s fabric, woolen
coat, sheet, various tweeds.
Sample:
vertical angled twill
Applications:
Horizontal angled twill
Notes:
 Short warp or weft floats should be used so as to
avoid overlong floats when the weave is reversed.
 Vertical angled twill weaves are achieved with
point draft.
 Horizontal angled twills are achieved with straight
draft.
3.2.6 Herringbone and
broken twills
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Herringbone
Concept
The twill line of herringbone weaves is broken at
predetermined intervals to continue in the opposite
direction.
Cuts or breaks occur in the fabric where warp floats are
exchanged for weft floats and vice versa.
Clean cuts avoid long floats that can occur in angled
weaves.
See Fig.3.24. The appearance of the fabric likes herring’s
bone, so it is called herringbone.
Weave drawn
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Herringbone weave construction is similar
to angled twill except the repeat
calculation.
Example: construct a herringbone weave based
2
on weave twill , KO = 6.
2
Broken twills
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Concept
Broken twill is formed by a break in the
continuation of the twill line at
predetermined intervals. See Fig. 3.27
Fig.3.27 various broken twills:
“●”(lifts) indicates the sequence of the
rearranged ends or picks.
Construction of broken weave
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The broken twill is constructed by
changing the sequence of the ends
or picks.
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Weaving plan
Broken draft is suitable for herringbone
and broken twills.
Applications
They are used for herringbone tweeds,
sheets, and various decorative fabrics.
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Herringbone weave sample:
3.2.7 Diamond weaves
1. Concept
 Diamond designs are based on angled twill
and can be considered as vertical angled
twill combines with horizontal angled twill.
(See Fig. 3.29)
Fig.3.29 diamond weave
2. Weave drawn
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(1) Choosing base weave:
(2) Determining Ko, Ky: (the size of the
pattern)
(3) Drawing the basic part according to
base weave and Ko, Ky.
(4) Drawing the angled twill.
(5) Drawing the other part by taking the
weft thread Ky as the axes of symmetry.
Example:
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Drawing the diamond weave, base weave
is 2/2↗ twill, KO=4, Ky=4.
◇◇
◇
◇◇ ◇◇
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▲
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Diamond fabric samples:
Diaper weaves
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Diaper designs are based on herringbone twill
combining with a horizontal herringbone twill.
See Fig.3.30
Diamond and diaper weaves are
suitable for pointed draft and
they are widely used for lady`s
cloth, sheet and woollen fabrics.
Fig.3.30 Diaper weave
Homework:
1. Drawing the following angled twills, and adding the weaving plan:
2. Drawing the following Herringbone weaves:
3. Drawing the diamond weave, the basic weave is 2/2↗ ,KO=10, Ky=10