7.2 Stitching double fabrics
Introduction:

Two layers of the double cloth are always stitched
together to produce a principal features, and the
stitching of the back and face fabrics can be effected
in the following five ways:
1) back cloth stitched to face cloth
2) face cloth stitched to back cloth
3) double stitching
4) center warp stitching
5) center weft stitching
1. Method Ⅰ
stitching from back to face( warp stitching)
Means raising the back ends over the face picks
Example 1: construct a stitching double weave.
Face weave: 2/2 Z twill
Back weave: 2/2 Z twill
Arrangement m : n = 1 : 1
Solution :
1) Draw the face and back weaves, see Fig (A):
Face
Back
Fig. (A)
2) Draw the stitching double weave

Considering the appearance of the fabric , these
stitches should be covered by face end floats. the
stitching is arranged as the following fig. (B).
Fig (B)
3) The weaving plan of the stitched double weave, see Fig (C).
Usually, divided draft is employed.
cross-section
Fig (C)
Back end and face pick
intersection
2. Method Ⅱ
stitching from face to back (weft stitching)
Means face ends are lowered below back picks.
Example 2: construct a stitching double weave.
 Face weave: 2/2 Z twill;
Back weave: 2/2 Z twill;
Arrangement m: n=1: 1.
1) Draw the face and back weaves, see Fig (A):
2) Draw the stitching double weave, see Fig (B).
Where:
○ : Stitching points
Fig (B)
3) The weaving plan of the stitched double weave.
See Fig (C):
Cross-section
Fig (C)
Face end and back pick
intersection
3. Method Ⅲ
Double stitching (warp & weft stitching)
Face cloth stitched to back cloth and back cloth
stitched to face cloth.
Example 3:
Construct a double stitching weave:
Face weave: 2/2 Z twill;
Back weave: 2/2 Z twill;
Arrangement m : n=1 : 1.
1) Draw the face and back weaves, see Fig (A):
2) Draw the double stitching weave, see Fig (B):
Fig (B)
Fig (A)
3) The weaving plan of the stitched double weave, see Fig (C):
Cross-section
Fig (C)
Back end and face
pick intersection
Face end and back
pick intersection
Method Ⅳ
Center warp stitching
Face and back cloths are stitched with a centre warp. If the
colours or counts of the yarns for the face and back differ
greatly fine center threads can be used for stitching.
Example 5:
Face weave:2/2 Z twill
Back weave:2/2 Z twill
Arrangement: m : n= 1 : 1
1) Draw the face and back weaves. See Fig. (A)
2) Draw the center warp stitching threads 4,9. See Fig. (B)
Fig. (B)
Fig. (A)
3) The weaving plan of center warp stitching. See Fig. (C):
Fig. (C)
Cross-section
Center warp
Method Ⅴ
center weft stitching
Face and back cloths are stitched with a center weft
Example 6:
Face weave 5 ends sateen
Back weave 5 ends satin
Arrangement: Warp m : n = 1 : 1 ;
Face pick : back pick: center pick : back pick :Face pick = 1:1:1:1:1;
Center weft
Home works:
Construct the following stitching weaves:
 1. A coating cloth, face weave 2/2↗, back weave1/1
plain, arrangement m : n=2 : 1, stitching in plain
order. (use method I)
 2. A coating cloth, face weave 2/2↗, back weave
2/2↗, arrangement m : n in warp way 1 : 1, in weft
way 2 : 2, stitching in 1/3 twill order (use method I)
 3. face weave 2/2 hopsack ,back weave 2/2↗,
arrangement m : n=1 : 1 ,stitching in 1/3 twill order
(use method Ⅱ) and draw the draft and lifting plan.