Focus:
The ways in which textile
products are manufactured in
industry.
Processes and Manufacture
Content
• The production systems and their
processes.
• The range of hand tools, equipment and
machines used in textile production.
• CAD/CAM
• Production Flowcharts
• Quality Control and Quality Assurance
The production systems and their
processes
There are three main types of production
system.
• One-off
• Batch
• Mass
Objectives
•Understand what is meant by oneoff, batch, and mass production.
•Understand line production and
subassembly systems
•Consider cost implications when
selecting method of production
One-off
• One-off production is designing and
making a single textile product to a client's
specification. The garment design is
developed from a basic block pattern,
with a prototype made from inexpensive
fabric to test the drape, fit and assembly
of the garment.
One-off
Haute-couture fashion: models at London Fashion Week
Task
•Look in magazines and cut out
pictures to make a collection of
designer outfits from catwalk shows.
Why are these garments made by
one-off production? How much do
these clothes and accessories cost
to buy?
Batch Production
• Batch production is manufacturing set
quantities of a textile product to order. The
prototype is made up in a medium size from the
intended fabric. The prototype is checked for
quality of design and manufacture, then put into
production in a range of standard sizes. The
quantity of products can vary from a set of four
cushions made by a designer-maker, to 20,000
jumpers made for a department store.
Mass production
• Mass production is industrial-scale
manufacture of large quantities of
products, usually on a production line.
Mass production is suitable for products
that seldom need to be redesigned and
are needed in very large numbers, eg
socks or jeans.
Production system
Product market
Design and production
Skill level and cost
One-off
Made-to-measure, eg suit, wedding dress;
Made-to-measure garments are made to
fit the measurements of an
individual client; the garment
design is developed from a basic
block pattern and a toile is
made to test the fabric drape, the
fit and order of assembly
Very high-level skills in design and
manufacture; high-cost materials;
high labour costs
One-off
Haute Couture, eg made by fashion
houses
Fashion designers such as John Galliano
design Haute Couture garments
for individual clients
Very high-level skills in design and
manufacture; high-cost material
and labour costs
Ready-to-wear (RTW) designer label, eg
Designers at Debenhams
Garments are designed to fit a range of
standard sizes and shapes.
Garment patterns are developed
from a basic block using CAD. A
sample garment is made up in a
medium size, from the intended
fabric. Once the design has been
approved it is put into production
in a range of standard sizes. They
are sold through up-market
retailers.
High-level design, pattern making and
sampling skills; cost-effective
materials and lower manufacturing
costs
Mass-market retailers, eg Top Shop
Similar production methods to batch
production: garments produced in
limited range of sizes;
standardised production methods
are used to produce a wide range
of styles. Most fashion products
are batch produced in large
batches eg 20,000. Some classic
products like jeans are mass
produced for a world market.
High-level design, pattern making and
sampling skills; cost-effective
materials; products often made
overseas where labour costs are
low
Batch production
Mass production
Systems and sub-systems
In a production system, a number of different
designing and manufacturing processes or subsystems take place at the same time. Examples
of sub-systems are:
• Lay-planning is the laying out of pattern
pieces of a fabric to work out the quantity
and cost of material required for a product.
• Costing is working out how much each
product costs in terms of including
materials, labour, rent and energy costs.
Just-in-time stock control (JIT)
This is a cost effective method of ordering
components and sub-assemblies to arrive
just before they are needed. Stock storage
time is reduced but any mistakes and
deliveries will hold production up.
Summary
•Hand-crafted, exclusive products are made individually using the one-off production system.
•For a fixed number of identical products, batch production is cost effective.
•Mass production usually includes production lines
•Subassemblies are made separately before they are joined to the main product.
The range of hand tools, equipment and
machines used in textile production.
Plotter/Cutting machines
Computers are used for producing Lay plans which
work out exactly where to place each pattern piece to
best use the fabric. Remember wasted fabric is wasted
money!
A plotter would mark out the pattern pieces and any
construction instructions such as darts.
A CAM cutting machine automatically cuts out the
pieces following the lay plan. It cuts the fabric quickly
and accurately using vertical knives, high pressure
water jets or lasers. Many layers can be cut out at
once which means less labour costs and more
efficiency
A Band saw can be used by a skilled operator. It is
used for cutting through multiple layers of fabric
quickly. Metal chain mail gloves are worn to protect
the workers hands.
Objectives
•Have an understanding of the
variety of machines used in
textile manufacture
•Appreciate the difference
between sewing and the
embroidery machines.
Sewing machines.
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•
•
•
•
These range from simple machines to ones that do specialist tasks
such as buttonholes, overlocking fabric edges or CAD CAM
machines that stitch out motifs
· Lockstitch –Used for sewing seams (Straight stitch)
· Over locker—Stitches, cuts and finishes seams in one process
· Seam cover—Used for sewing belt loops
· Automatic buttonhole—Used for sewing buttonholes
· CAD/CAM—Multihead embroidery machine
Hand tools and equipment
Tools & equipment for
• Designing, colouring and embellishing
• Measuring and marking
• Cutting
• Heating and pressing
Identify and make a list of all the tools and equipment in your
textiles classroom
Summary
•Appropriate tools and equipment should be selected, used correctly and safely, and stored in the
designated place.
•A wide variety of tools and equipment are required when designing and making
•Efficient and accurate use of tools and equipment will help ensure that high-quality products are
made.
Industrial Machinery
Below are some of the main
types of machines used in the
manufacture of textile products.
Digital jet printer
Knitting machine
Band saw
Machinery can be
operated by hand, be
semi-automatic fully
automatic and can
also be computer
controlled
Multi-head
embroidery machine
Objectives
•Have an understanding of the variety of machines used in textile manufacture
•Appreciate the difference between sewing and the embroidery machines.
Industrial sewing machines
In industry a range of different sewing machines are used for stitching seams,
embroidery, buttonholes etc. The main ones are listed in the table below:
Method of control
Joining process
Used for
Lockstitch
Electric
Lockstitch
Straight seams
Lockstitch
Electric
Zigzag stitch
Stretchy knits; finishing
edges
Overlocker
Electric
Stitches, cuts and finishes
seams in one process
Non-fraying seams;
stretchy seams
Seamcover
Electric
Flat seam
Knitted hems; belt loops
on jeans
Linking
Electronic; CAM
Joins knitted fabric stitch
by stitch
Knitted seams
Automatic buttonhole
Electronic; CAM
Lockstitch; chainstitch
Buttonholes
Computer Numerically
Controlled (CNC)
Computer software;
Electronic; CAM
Lockstitch; zigzag;
embroidery
Making collars; labels;
logos; embroidery
Industrial machine
Summary
•Machines speed up the process of making and can be used to ensure high-quality products
•Many machines have fast moving parts and sharp needles. Great care must be taken to follow
safety rules to avoid injury while operating such a machine.
•Machinery can be operated by hand, semi-automatic or fully automatic and can also be computer
controlled.
CAD
• USING COMPUTERS TO DESIGN AND PRESENT
• Computers are used by designers for:
• Writing documents and creating display boards,
including artwork, text, spreadsheets, graphs and tables
• Putting together slide show presentations
• Digital photography and video making
• Designing and sampling
• Supplementing drawing and colouring with use of
specialist fashion software, e.g. Speed Step.
Objectives
•Understand the benefits of using computers in manufacturing.
•Appreciate the link between CAD & CAM
PROGRAMMES USED BY DESIGNERS
These include:
• Microsoft Office - Word, Excel,
PowerPoint, Publisher
• Drawing packages – Paint, Adobe
illustrator, CorelDraw
• Image editing – Photoshop
• Specialist Fashion software, e.g. Speed
Step
DRAWING USING SOFTWARE
• Drawing software can be used to design, illustrate and show
working drawings. Drawn lines and shapes or photographic images
can be imported and edited, or scanned to manipulate and develop
ideas. Collections with a range of coordinating products can be
developed from one initial idea.
• With some specialist software it is possible to get a 3D impression of
the design by rotating the design and seeing it from different
viewpoints. The designer can use the computer to simulate draping
and shadowing to create a realistic image of the design. Also, ideas
for different colourways can be tested and a variety of printed,
knitted or woven fabric designs can be trialled on screen, to see the
effect of each different combination of colour and texture.
USE OF ICT FOR PRESENTATION
The designer can present ideas to the client on screen or
printed on to presentation boards, or via e-mail, and
then quickly modify them according to client feedback.
Promotional material developed from design work can be
adapted for use on websites, business stationery and
advertising and marketing materials, such as point of
sale literature and display posters. Computers make this
development of related design work a quicker process
DESIGNING AND SAMPLING USING COMPUTERS
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Computers can be used to pass detailed design information to machinery
quickly so that samples can be made during the design and development
stages, often without the designers even leaving their workstations.
Designers can use computers to design new woven or knitted fabrics on
screen and then show the new fabric in use on a drawn model, on screen
or on printed copy.
Printed fabric design developed on screen can be digitally printed on to
actual fabric for sampling.
Embroidered motifs and patterns can be designed on the computer and
then stitched directly onto fabric.
A design process that previously took weeks or months can now take less
than 24hrs. The images on colour monitors and those reproduced by colour
printers are so realistic that they can be used to present ideas to fashion
buyers. In the past buyers have demanded to see and touch actual sample
garments, before deciding to place orders, but with the new computer
technology they now have the confidence to buy from screened or printed
presentations.
ICT and CAM
ICT and computer-aided manufacture (CAM)
• ICT and CAM play a vital role in modern textiles production. For
example, they enable :
• designs to be sent electronically to the print manufacturer and stored
on computer to ease repeat printing orders.
• colours to be matched to the design, dyes weighed and dispensed
and the fabric printed automatically
• ICT makes possible the just-in-time ordering of materials and
components so they arrive at the factory as they are needed, ie justin-time for production to start.
• ICT enables companies to transmit information between plants, and
manufacture on a global scale
Objectives
•Understand the benefits of using computers in manufacturing.
•Appreciate the link between CAD & CAM
Mass-produced clothing: jeans in a clothes shop window
Summary
•Computers can be used to increase efficiency and accuracy in manufacturing
•Costs can be reduced if efficiency is increased
•Health and safety of workers can be monitored and working conditions made safer using
computers
•Flexibility is increased as changes in production can be made more rapidly
CNC
• Computer-numerical control
• Computer-aided manufacturing
involves the use of CNC
machines for printing, cutting,
joining and many other textiles
processes. CNC-automated
machines can repeat
processes with accuracy and
reliability, and are easily reprogrammed when changes to
design or production run are
needed. The graphic shows
some of the uses of CNC
machines.
CIM
Computer-integrated manufacturing
(CIM) systems integrate or link CAD and
CAM systems. These combined systems
link design development, production
planning and manufacturing systems
together. Companies that use CIM are
able to design a product in one country
and manufacture it overseas where labour
costs are lower.
Exam Tips
•
•
•
Make sure that you understand the
different roles of clients, designers,
manufacturers and users.
You need to know what a production
plan and work schedule are - and the
difference between them.
Make sure that you know the difference
between one-off, batch and mass
production.
Production Plan
Production planning
• Production plans and work schedules are
important planning tools in batch and
mass production.
• The production plan should set out
information about all the stages of
production, so that every product is made
to the same quality. See example below:
Each production plan should include the following stages:
• The preparation stage details the amount of
materials to buy-in, preparation of garment
patterns, templates and lay plans.
• The processing stage details the fabric spreading,
cutting, labelling and bundling of the fabric
pieces.
• The assembly stage contains instructions for
fusing, joining and pressing the separate product
parts.
• The finishing stage gives instructions for
decorative/functional finishing and final pressing.
• The packaging stage explains how to label, hang,
fold, and cover the product ready for transport to
the retailer.
Some manufacturers use computer software to handle the detailed information in the
production plan. Any changes made to the plan are quickly available to each member of the
production team
Work schedule
A work schedule sets out instructions
about the order of assembly, the stitch
type, the processes to be used, the time
each process will take and the seam
allowance. See the example of a work
schedule below:
Work schedule below for a skirt
Order of
assembly
Stitch type
Process
Process time
in minutes
Seam
allowance
1
Lockstitch
Stitch pockets
2.00
1.00cm
2
Lockstitch
Stitch pockets to
front
2.00
1.00cm
3
Overlock
Join back seam
1.00
1.00cm
4
Lockstitch
Insert zip
2.00
0.20cm
5
Overlock
Join side seams
1.50
1.00cm
6
Lockstitch
Join waistband to
top
2.50
0.60cm
7
Blind
hemming
Turn up hem
1.50
0.20cm
N/A
N/A
Total process time
12.50
N/A