3rd International Conference on Textiles and Clothing organized by
Institute of Textile & Industrial Sciences, UMT Lahore
with collaboration of
“Society of dyers & Colorists” and “The Textile Institute, UK”.
“THE STUDY OF SHRINKAGE BEHAVIOR OF RIGID
AND STRETCHABLE DENIM FABRICS APPLYING
DIFFERENT WASHING TECHNIQUES”
Nadeem Afraz
Dr. Nabeel Amin
Lecturer (Textile Engineering)
Director/Asst. Professor (Textiles)
Bahauddin Zakariya University
College of Textile Engineering,
Multan.
Institute of Textile and Industrial
Sciences, UMT,
Lahore.
Abstract
 The shrinkage margins of garment before washing are set
in blanket form, and after washing these shrinkage margins
do not meet pre-calculated shrinkage values and ultimately
garment “fit to body” out sizes marginally.
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Objectives of Studies

To control the dimension variations of garments

To control the size chart variations

To improve MARKER efficiency.

To reduce rejection rate .

To identify shrinkage changes with respect to the
type of fabric.
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Shrinkage Behavior

The term shrinkage can simply be defined as a change in
the dimensions of a fabric or garment, there are number
of factors that influence fabrics

One major factor is that fabric Shrink because it under
stresses during manufacturing and in relaxed form while
garment washed.
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Experiment Design
Fabric Selection:
 Denim fabric is manufactured in a number of types but
with the view of preciseness we select its major kinds
which are in 3/1 Right hand twill (RHT) Rigid and
Stretchable with weight range 9 Ozs./yd .
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Shrinkage Test
 Shrinkage percentage was calculated in both warp and
weft directions by using AATCC test method 135-2004.
Conditioning of Samples:
Temperature:
21oC ± 1oC
Relative humidity: 65% ± 2%
Time:
4 hours before and 4 hours after wash
 Two form of denim were used to compare shrinkage:
1.
Blankets
2.
Panels/Leg tubes.
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Stages of Garment Washing Process
Washing
Process
Stone wash
Enzyme wash
Bleach wash
Stage 1
Load of Garment Load of Garment
and stones
Load of Garment
Stage 2
Enzymatic
Desizing
Enzymatic
Desizing
Enzymatic
Desizing
Stage 3
Rinse
Rinse
Rinse
Stage 4
Stone wash
Enzyme wash
Bleach wash
Stage 5
Rinse
Rinse
Rinse
Stage 6
Extract
Extract
Extract
Stage 7
Tumble Dryer
Tumble Dryer
Tumble Dryer
Stage 8
Unload
Unload
Unload
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Recipe for Enzyme De-sizing
Name
Quantity
Enzyme
50ml (1% on the wt of garment)
Antistain
50ml (1% on the wt of garment)
Wetting
Agent
25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment)
De-sizing Procedure
•
•
•
•
•
•
Liquor Ratio 1:10
Temperature @ 140 °F
Process time 15 minutes
Loading Capacity 120 Kgs
Extraction at 450 RPM.
Rinse time 3 minutes
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Recipe for Stone Wash
Name
Quantity
Weight of stone
5kg (Standard weight)
Antistain
25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment)
Chemwet
25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment)
Stone Wash Procedure
•
•
•
•
•
•
Temperature @ 140 °F
Process time 40 minutes
Rinse time 3 minutes
Loading Capacity 120 Kgs
Extraction at 450 RPM
Rinse time 3 minutes
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Recipe for Enzyme wash
Name
Quantity
Valuemax(A326)
50ml
Antistain
25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment)
Chemwet
25ml (0.5% on the wt of garment)
Enzyme Washing Procedure
•
•
•
•
•
Temperature @ 140 °F
Process time 40 minutes
Rinse time 3 minutes
Loading Capacity 120 Kgs
Extraction at 450 RPM
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Recipe for Bleach Wash
Name
Quantity
NaOCl
1 liter
Antichlor
500 gm
Bleach Washing Procedure
•
•
•
•
•
•
Temperature @ 140 °F
Process time 40 minutes
Rinse time 3 minutes
Loading Capacity 120 Kgs
Extraction at 450 RPM
Rinse time 3 minutes
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Warp Shrinkage (Rigid Fabric)
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Weft Shrinkage (Rigid Fabric)
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Warp Shrinkage (Stretchable Fabric)
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Weft Shrinkage (Stretchable Fabric)
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Results and Discussion
 In general Shrinkage is greater in Blanket Form than in
Panels in all washing techniques.
 Enzymatic De-sizing causes minimum Shrinkage in
Stretchable fabric either in Blanket or Panel form.
 Stretchable fabric shrinks more in weft because Lycra is
used in it.
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Recommendations
 It is recommended that in denim garment manufacturing
the shrinkage should be measured in panel form rather
than in blanket form and size chart be made accordingly
based on the shrinkage rate occur in panel followed by
specific washing technique demanded by customer.
 The shrinkage margins may be set in size chart of
garment as per required wash and garment will
ultimately “fit to size” that will ultimately reduce
rejection and alteration rate of the garment unit
 Shrinkage margin may be considered in MARKER Making-that will improve marker efficiency and reduce wastage
while calculating fabric for an order.
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Future works
1.
Study of construction shrinkage of the denim fabric.
2.
Study of processing shrinkage to make formula to
calculate shrinkage on each washing technique.
3.
Study of performance properties of denim fabric/
garment applying different washing techniques.
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