LESSON – 1 TYPES OF MACHINES USED IN SHIRT MAKING TYPES OF MACHINES USED IN SHIRT MAKING Mainly three sections in a garment factory – cutting section , stitching section and finishing section In cutting section – fabric inspection, spreading and cutting – then sorting and bundling In stitching section – different stitching operation - assemble the parts – In finishing section – various finishes , pressing and packing MACHINES FOR CUTTING SECTION Fabric - inspection machine For inspect / check the fabric– Cloth passed through two roller over lighted glass sheet – use with florescent lights Cloth spreading machine For spreading the cloth –the machine spread the cloth automatically and can count no. of layers END CUTTER To cut the one end of a layer – fixed on the cutting table – a round blade attach with machine – draw with a handle When manual layering has been done , this cutter is useful Straight knife cutter To cut 100 to 150 layers together ( depends on thickness of material ) – has 8” to 10” blade size & cutting capacity is 60% of the blade size. Used for Round knife cutter To cut many layer together – the blade have hexagon shape & have 4” to5” diameter- used to cut small parts of garment For 30 to 40 layers of cloth MACHINES FOR SEWING SECTION Single needle flat bed lock stitch machine For high speedy production – two types – simple & with UBT system – auto oiling system – oil tank under base - Twin needle flat bed lock stitch machine For high speedy production –Two types 1. with split needle bar – especially for corner 2. with fixed needle bar – for straight seams OVER LOCK MACHINE For safety stitch – to stop fraying of cut edge of different parts – many kinds – 2threads, 3 threads, 4 threads, 5 threads , 6 threads for different utility FEED OFF THE ARM MACHINE Double / triple needle chain stitch machine – working with four/ six threads – two / three needles & pullers – used on side seams of shirt – for cylindrical shaped garment COLLAR TURNING & BLOCKING MACHINE For turning the collar – have compressor – can turn collar points safely – can adjust heat and pressure as per fabric CUFF BLOCKING MACHINE For blocking on turned cuffs – operate with a compressor - can adjust heat and pressure as per fabric FUSING MACHINE To stick fusing on fabric – for cuff, collar, placket etc. BUTTONHOLE MACHINE Two types – simple and computerized mechanism – to make different types of buttonhole – designs & size can select from the computer panel board mounted on the top – as per programmed - BUTTONHOLE MACHINE BUTTON STITCH MACHINE For button fixing on garments - two types – computerized & simple mechanism – can change pattern of button fixing design e.g. square, triangle or bar type BEND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE FOUR NEEDLE PLACKET MACHINE To attach front placket on fronthave four needles & 4 loopers - 8 threads – chain stitch machine – MACHINES FOR FINISHING SECTION THREAD SUCKING MACHINE For suck small fibers \ threads stuck on the garment - whole garment put in the machine – by help of compressor, threads are suck - STEAM IRON WITH VACCUME PRESSING TABLE For good quality pressing process – have vacuum table - & steam iron – one mini boiler – While pressing – the fabric suck on the pad - good pressing done – we release steam as per our requirement ( continue…) STEAM IRON WITH VACCUME PRESSING TABLE STAIN REMOVING TABLE WITH GUN To remove stains from garment – have two or three air guns , a boiler & two or three jars for chemical One gun content chemical, while the others have cold/hot airThe machine have a in-built compressor – a Shirt folding table