Jacquard Fabric on Circular
Knitting machine
Part 2: Non-conventional Single
Jersey Jacquard Fabrics
Jimmy Lam
Institute of Textiles & Clothing
Learning Objectives
More Jacquard Fabrics
 Drop stitch jacquard
 Jacquard Fishnet
 Jacquard Inlay
 Jacquard Purl
 Jacquard Terry
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More Jacquard Fabric
So far, our discussion is on conventional jacquard
fabric based on knit, tuck and miss method.
 However, we can create a lot of jacquard fabrics
based on different colour, different material,
different machine gauge and yarn count.
 All those methods require special attachment on the
machine (says, feeding two yarns together, or
making a hole on the fabric), we call this as nonconventional jacquard method.

Drop Stitch Jacquard
A kind of jacquard lace or eyelet fabric on
single jersey machine
 The formation of holes or eyelets is by pressing
off the selected needles and allows the loops to
drop for a predetermined number of courses.

Drop Stitch Fabric
Extra large loop is formed
by pressing off these needles
Drop Stitch
Knitting Sequence
A tightly knitted plain course is used to stop
laddering
 Slack courses for drop stitches
 A feeder with selection mechanism to select
needles to clearing height, and feed no yarn to
these needles. The result is loops will be pressed
off.
 The next feeder is knitting plain course, a latch
opener is used to open all latch on those empty
needles.

Jacquard Fishnet fabrics
Also known as float plating and is used for
girls’ half hose or stocking
 The structure is composed of two different yarns
 One is fine denier “nylon”, the other is thick
cotton
 Both yarns are fed to the needles on same
feeder with nylon fed to all needles, cotton is fed
to selected needles.

Fine yarn as ground
Fishnet is formed by knitting
two yarns at the same time with
different thickness
Coarse yarn as pattern
Jacquard Fishnest Fabric
The result is nylon is knitting plain, forming the
ground and the cotton is knitting knit and miss,
forming the pattern.
 See through/lace effect is obtained on those
needles that miss cotton yarn
 A special sinker top machine is needed

Jacquard inlay and puckerette


For jacquard inlay fabrics, it is the technical back of
the fabric is used as the effective side, showing the
pattern by float of thick or fancy yarn
Puckerette is a fine gauge plain knit fabric with the
insertion of elastic yarn at the back in pre-determined
interval. The fabric when relaxed, shrinked
tremendously on the width and the fabric surface
becomes way and cooked
Puckerette Fabric
Plain Knit with
Elastic Yarn
Eyelet fabric
Special machine is needed to form a eyelet fabric
Jacquard Purl Fabric
A special type of jacquard fabric
 Patterns are composed of technical face loops
and back loops on “the single knit fabric”.
 Because two type of loops give different amount
of light reflection, therefore, patterns are made
of different shade portions in single colour.
 The special machine is called “double
cylinder” machine.

Jacquard Purl fabric
Note: Technical face and back loops are on one side
Jacquard Terry fabric

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Colour jacquard pattern terry; and
Sculptured jacquard pattern terry
It is the extra large sinker loops on the technical back
of fabric that create the pattern
A special terry fabric machine with horizontal sinker
wheel is used.
Jacquard Terry Fabric
Ground yarn
Normal knitting
Terry Loops
formed by special
Sinkers