Jacquard Fabric on Circular Knitting machine Part 1: Single Jersey Jacquard Fabrics Jimmy Lam Institute of Textiles & Clothing Learning Objectives Definition Knit and Miss Jacquard Knit and Tuck Jacquard Knit, tuck and miss jacquard Other Jacquard fabrics – – – – – Drop stitch jacquard Jacquard Fishnet Jacquard Inlay Jacquard Purl Jacquard Terry Definition Jacquard : A general term for fabrics with knit on pattern Can you name any non-jacquard fabric ? Definition (II) Mini-jacquard/semi-jacquard/intermediatejacquard – Jacquard with small pattern area eg E18 double jersey with 2 colours in one square inch Rib-jacquard – Double Knit jacquard Knit and Miss Jacquard – Single Knit Jacquard Self colour Jacquard – Jacquard pattern with surface effect eg tuck eyelets Definition (III) Floatless Jacquard – Single Jersey colour jacquard made by knit and tuck Accordian Miss Fabric – Single jersey jacquard with knit, tuck on the same course. The tuck stitches are used to tie-in the long floats of unwanted colours. Knit and Miss Jacquard fabric Knit and Miss Jacquard Used for colour pattern on single jersey machine By sharing the loops of a colour yarn on the fabric surface and hiding those unwanted colour yarns at the back in the form of float stitch Knit + Miss Jacquard Sample Gauge 5, V-bed Knitting Sample Technical Face Technical Back Knit+Miss Jacquard fabric Eight Gauge V-bed Knitting Technical Face Technical Back 2-Colour Knit and Miss jacquard 3-Colour Knit and Miss Jacquard Characteristics of Knit+Miss Jacquard Fabric Narrower width – The float yarn tends to pull the knit loops closer to each other. Eg. 20E plain fabric will have 28-30 wpi but 2 colour jacquard will have 36-37 wpi. Shorter in length Heavier in weight – The fabric density is higher, together with float yarns at the back. (therefore, 3 or 4 colour is not popular because it is too heavily) Fabric thickness – It will be thicker and becomes bucker because of extra float yarn Characteristics of Knit+Miss Jacquard Fabric Surface Appearance – Good surface appearance on colour pattern Dimensional Stability – High stitch desnity with large amount of float yarn, it is better in dimensional stability than plain fabric. Application The knit and miss jacquard fabric can almost be produced on any circular sinker top machine. However, fabric end uses depends on: – – – – – machine gauge; material used; fabric weight; fabric properties; colour pattern and structure End-uses for Single Jacquard fabrics Yarn Arrangement Yarn Tension Control – Positive feed cannot be used, instead the storage feed should be used. Direct yarn feeding from cone to needles will be used for low quality fabric product. Please discuss above statement. Yarn Set out on knitting feeders – For 2-colour jacquard patterns, the machine feeders must be in even number. This is because it takes 2 feeders to make one surface course on fabric. Similarly, 3 colour jacquard need the no. of feeders in the multiple of 3. Knit and Tuck Jacquard Fabrics It is commonly used to produce single colour structure with surface effect of fabric. Knit+Tuck Jacquard Fabric Note: No float yarn at the back of the fabric Technical Face Technical Back Knit + Tuck Jacquard fabric Characteristics Wider Width – The tuck stitch will increase the width of fabric – eg. KTKTKT (fabric A); KKTKKTKKT (fabric B) – fabric A is wider than B Shorter length – – – – – The tuck loop will reduce the fabric length KTKT KTKKKTK KTKT (A) KKTKKKT (B) KTKT KKKTKKK fabric A will be shorter than B Knit + Tuck Jacquard Characteristics Fabric thickness and weight – fabric thickness will increase with the amount of tuck stitch. The fabric density is lower than knit and miss but is still heavier than plain Dimensional Stability – because of lower fabric density, it is not as stable as knit and miss fabric Knit + Tuck Jacquard Application Knit and Tuck fabric will never be used for underwear because it is not smooth enough to contact with the skin. Knit, tuck and miss jacquard Knit + Tuck + Miss Jacquard Also known as selective accordian or 3-way technique. Similar to knit and miss jacquard, except the insertion of tuck stitch to tie-in the long float threads at predetermined interval. – Eg float length of 11 wales can be reduced to 5 wales by inserting tuck stitch at the middle – fabric A= XX-----------XX – fabric B=XX-----T-----XX Knit + Tuck + Miss Jacquard Characteristics Similar to knit and miss except the fabric density is lower because of tuck stitch. Also fabric appearance and colour is not as clear as knit and miss jacquard Can you tell why ? Modification of single knit colour jacquard fabric Multi-colour by 2 colour jacquard knitting – On circular machine, only those installed with automatic striper can change the yarn according to program. Ordinary machine will have to use yarn set out method Insertion of plain knit on multi-colour pattern – Method 1: just knit the horizontal block in plain with one colour yarn, the fabric thickness will be uneven – Method 2: Leave the unwanted colour yarns to float and tuck at the back to maintain the fabric thickness Multi-colour by 2 colour jacquard knitting Modification of 2-colour jacaurd Knit+Tuck+Miss 2-colour All Knit one colour Color Stripe Single jersey Technical Face Technical back Special Design by mixing of colour yarn, basically it is a simple plain knit fabric Printed Fabric Technical Face Technical Back The easy way to distinguish a printed fabric from knitted jacquard fabric is, the printed fabric only shows the design on one size.