Jacquard Fabric on Circular
Knitting machine
Part 1: Single Jersey Jacquard
Fabrics
Jimmy Lam
Institute of Textiles & Clothing
Learning Objectives
Definition
 Knit and Miss Jacquard
 Knit and Tuck Jacquard
 Knit, tuck and miss jacquard
 Other Jacquard fabrics

–
–
–
–
–
Drop stitch jacquard
Jacquard Fishnet
Jacquard Inlay
Jacquard Purl
Jacquard Terry
Definition

Jacquard : A general term for fabrics with
knit on pattern

Can you name any non-jacquard fabric ?
Definition (II)

Mini-jacquard/semi-jacquard/intermediatejacquard
– Jacquard with small pattern area eg E18 double
jersey with 2 colours in one square inch

Rib-jacquard
– Double Knit jacquard

Knit and Miss Jacquard
– Single Knit Jacquard

Self colour Jacquard
– Jacquard pattern with surface effect eg tuck eyelets
Definition (III)

Floatless Jacquard
– Single Jersey colour jacquard made by knit and tuck

Accordian Miss Fabric
– Single jersey jacquard with knit, tuck on the same
course. The tuck stitches are used to tie-in the long
floats of unwanted colours.
Knit and Miss Jacquard fabric
Knit and Miss Jacquard
Used for colour pattern on single jersey
machine
 By sharing the loops of a colour yarn on the
fabric surface and hiding those unwanted
colour yarns at the back in the form of float
stitch

Knit + Miss Jacquard Sample
Gauge 5, V-bed Knitting Sample
Technical Face
Technical Back
Knit+Miss Jacquard fabric
Eight Gauge V-bed Knitting
Technical Face
Technical Back
2-Colour Knit and
Miss jacquard
3-Colour Knit
and Miss Jacquard
Characteristics of Knit+Miss
Jacquard Fabric

Narrower width
– The float yarn tends to pull the knit loops closer to each other.
Eg. 20E plain fabric will have 28-30 wpi but 2 colour jacquard
will have 36-37 wpi.


Shorter in length
Heavier in weight
– The fabric density is higher, together with float yarns at the
back. (therefore, 3 or 4 colour is not popular because it is too
heavily)

Fabric thickness
– It will be thicker and becomes bucker because of extra float yarn
Characteristics of Knit+Miss
Jacquard Fabric

Surface Appearance
– Good surface appearance on colour pattern

Dimensional Stability
– High stitch desnity with large amount of float yarn, it is
better in dimensional stability than plain fabric.
Application
The knit and miss jacquard fabric can almost be
produced on any circular sinker top machine.
 However, fabric end uses depends on:

–
–
–
–
–
machine gauge;
material used;
fabric weight;
fabric properties;
colour pattern and structure
End-uses for Single Jacquard fabrics
Yarn Arrangement

Yarn Tension Control
– Positive feed cannot be used, instead the storage feed should
be used. Direct yarn feeding from cone to needles will be
used for low quality fabric product.


Please discuss above statement.
Yarn Set out on knitting feeders
– For 2-colour jacquard patterns, the machine feeders must be
in even number. This is because it takes 2 feeders to make
one surface course on fabric. Similarly, 3 colour jacquard
need the no. of feeders in the multiple of 3.
Knit and Tuck Jacquard Fabrics
It is commonly used to produce single
colour structure with surface effect of
fabric.
Knit+Tuck Jacquard Fabric
Note: No float yarn at the back of the fabric
Technical Face
Technical Back
Knit + Tuck Jacquard fabric
Characteristics

Wider Width
– The tuck stitch will increase the width of fabric
– eg. KTKTKT (fabric A); KKTKKTKKT (fabric B)
– fabric A is wider than B

Shorter length
–
–
–
–
–
The tuck loop will reduce the fabric length
KTKT
KTKKKTK
KTKT (A) KKTKKKT (B)
KTKT
KKKTKKK
fabric A will be shorter than B
Knit + Tuck Jacquard
Characteristics

Fabric thickness and weight
– fabric thickness will increase with the amount of tuck
stitch. The fabric density is lower than knit and miss
but is still heavier than plain

Dimensional Stability
– because of lower fabric density, it is not as stable as
knit and miss fabric
Knit + Tuck Jacquard
Application

Knit and Tuck fabric will never be used for underwear
because it is not smooth enough to contact with the
skin.
Knit, tuck and miss jacquard
Knit + Tuck + Miss Jacquard


Also known as selective accordian or 3-way
technique.
Similar to knit and miss jacquard, except the
insertion of tuck stitch to tie-in the long float
threads at predetermined interval.
– Eg float length of 11 wales can be reduced to 5 wales by
inserting tuck stitch at the middle
– fabric A= XX-----------XX
– fabric B=XX-----T-----XX
Knit + Tuck + Miss Jacquard
Characteristics



Similar to knit and miss except the fabric density is
lower because of tuck stitch.
Also fabric appearance and colour is not as clear as
knit and miss jacquard
Can you tell why ?
Modification of single knit colour
jacquard fabric

Multi-colour by 2 colour jacquard knitting
– On circular machine, only those installed with automatic
striper can change the yarn according to program. Ordinary
machine will have to use yarn set out method

Insertion of plain knit on multi-colour pattern
– Method 1: just knit the horizontal block in plain with one
colour yarn, the fabric thickness will be uneven
– Method 2: Leave the unwanted colour yarns to float and tuck
at the back to maintain the fabric thickness
Multi-colour by 2 colour jacquard
knitting
Modification of 2-colour jacaurd
Knit+Tuck+Miss
2-colour
All Knit
one colour
Color Stripe Single jersey
Technical Face
Technical back
Special Design by mixing of colour yarn, basically
it is a simple plain knit fabric
Printed Fabric
Technical Face
Technical Back
The easy way to distinguish a printed fabric from knitted
jacquard fabric is, the printed fabric only shows the design
on one size.