Chapter 19
Wigs and Hair Additions
•Important role in fashion
•Either a simple retail effort or a highly
specialized field
•Opportunities for stylists to cut, color, and care
for wigs
www.wiggoddess.com/.../thumbrunway%20fashion.jpg
cdn2.ioffer.com/img/item/435/214/36/e131_1_bo.JPG
•Range from clip-on hairpieces to
elaborately applied extensions
•Newest technique, single strands of hair are
meticulously hand-tied onto individual
strands of clients hair
•Requires specialized training
www.sergiossalonandspa.com/images/wigs_before...
www.highdefinitionhair.com/images/sasha_befor.. ..
•Each manufacturer has its own attachment
method
•Take the manufacturer’s class
•Inventory can be a hefty investment
•Clip-on extensions-demand is high
www.galiwigs.co.uk/images/process/DSC_0019.jpg
•Income ranges from a small amount to thousands
of dollars
•Hair-loss clients and medical clients, (cancer
patients) have particular needs for hair
additions
www.internetwigs.com/.../large/shampoo_LG.jpg
www.headcovers.com/uld/mcim/wigs-cancer-patie...
www.creativewigs.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/...
Human Hair versus Synthetic Hair
•Pull a strand of hair from the wig or hairpiece
and burn it with a match
•Human hair will:
* burn slowly
* gives off a distinctive
odor
cancerfairygodmother.com/.../01/vogue-wigs.jpg
•Synthetic hair will:
* “ball up” and melt
*extinguishing itself
*burn out very quickly
*will not give off an odor
hottscizzors.com/images/burning.jpg
Advantages of Human Hair Wigs
•Realistic appearance
•Greater durability
•Same styling and maintenance as natural hair
•Can be custom colored, permed
•Tolerates heat from a blow-dryer, curling iron, or
hot rollers
List price $ 995.00
www.qdhairbeauty.com/images/lace%20wig%209.jpg
Disadvantages of Human Hair Wigs
•May frizz or lose its curl in humid weather
•After shampooing, hair needs to be reset
•Color will fade
•Hair will break and split if mistreated
Advantages of Synthetic Wigs
•Strong and durable-Kanekalon
•Natural, lustrous look and feel
•A great value, less expensive
•Style and texture are set into the hair
•Very easy for clients to maintain
•Shampoo in cold water
img.en.china.cn/0/0,0,205,16063,330,349,a48e4...
www.cjsfulllacewigs.com/.../product/TeriWig.JPG
•Cut according to the latest styles
*cut, color, and texture already set
•You may need to do some detailing or custom
trimming
•Colors are limitless
•Cheaper wigs are more solid in color
•High-end products mixed with many
shades/highlights/lowlights for a natural effect
•Colors will not fade
Disadvantages of Synthetic Wigs
•Cannot be exposed to extreme heat
•Coloring is not recommended
•So shiny may not look natural
•If thick, will look unnatural
on a fine-haired client
24.99
cchairandbeauty.com/.../bally2-1-1-01-01.jpg
Quality and Cost
•Pros and cons, you get what you pay for
•Your success will be determined by the quality of
the product itself
www.beautymajor.com/images/D/lilyB-01-01.jpg
img.diytrade.com/cdimg/486456/7713651/0/12300...
cdn2.ioffer.com/img/item/103/497/312/p71H.jpg
The most expensive wigs are made with human
hair
•European hair
*top of the line
•Hair from India
*lengths from 12”-16”
img.alibaba.com/img/buyoffer/102149322/Indian...
*naturally wavy
• Asia
*lengths from 12”-28”
*naturally straight
www.zarawigs.com/.../56424-lace-front-wigs.jpg
•Human hair mixed with animal hair
*angora, horse, yak, or sheep hair
*Yak from animals belly and is purest of
whites
Great for fantasy colors-attracts the teen market,
often used in theatrical or fashion settings
travelblog.paintedstork.com/image/yak.jpg
www.catscostumes.net/.../catswigsfullcast03.jpg
•Human hair mixed with synthetic hair
(cheapest)
•Often half and half
•Advantages and disadvantages of both
•Good option if best color and texture are
chosen for client
Ask the manufacturer several important questions
when selecting a wig for a client:
•Made from human hair, animal hair, mixture, or
synthetic
•Is the hair colored
•Human hair grading-strength, elasticity, porosity
•Cuticle-intact
•Turned hair or Remi hair
*cuticles of all hair move in the
same direction
*better condition
*easier to work with
*doesn’t tangle easily
*time consuming-increases the cost
Read Focus on
•Fallen hair
*gathered from a hairbrush
*cuticles move in different directions
~tangles
*Remi refined hair-cuticle partially removed
~will not lock or mat
*Fallen hair less expensive than Remi hair
Ask manufacturer:
•Is hair tangle free?
*if cuticle has been removed
*cannot condition-will mat
•Condition of the hair?
•Will it match client’s hair?
•Can it be permed?
•Will it last 4-6 months-continual use?
Wigs
•Wigs are an artificial covering
for the head consisting of a
network of interwoven hair
•The client’s hair is completely
concealed
•Hair piece used to cover the
top or crown of the head
www.wigsandpieces.com/.../bailey-wigs-L.jpg
shop.perimart.com/images/D/08040008-2.jpg
Types of wigs
Cap wigs-constructed with elasticized meshfiber base
•Several sizes
•Require special fittings
•Are hand-knotted
www.todaystylist.com/wig_cap_custom_mine_4.jpg
•Front edge resembles client’s scalp
•Wire support at the temples for a snug fit
•Hand tied to conceal the cap edge
•Side and back edges contain wire supports,
elastic, and hooks for a secure fit
www.todaystylist.com/wig_cap_custom_mine_4.jpg
Capless wigs-are machine made
•Human or artificial hair
•Wefts-long strips of hair with a threaded edge-sewn
•Ready-to-wear and less expensive
•Open points like fish net stockings
•Extremely light and
comfortable to wear
www.ladieswigs.net/.../2009/11/monocap.jpg
www.todaystylist.com/BN27L_wig_cap_open.jpg
•Capless wigs are healthier-allows the scalp to
breathe
•Cap wig:
*best for extremely thin or no hair clients
FYI:
Lace wigs
*new
*more comfortable
www.ladycage.com/zen/images/WAVY.jpg
i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto/Articles/549375..
.
•New innovations=more comfortable
•Lace front wigs
*natural-looking hairline
•Wigs are now well designed and fashionable
•Bought off-the-shelf for immediate wear
Methods of Construction
• Hand-tied or hand-knotted wigs made by
*individual strands of hair
*knotting them with a needle
• Done around the front hairline and the top of the
head
• Has a natural, realistic look
• Combed in almost any direction
jazzyhairfactory.co.uk/images/hand%20tied%201.jpg
farm2.static.flickr.com/1167/775871787_7a25fe...
Hand-tied synthetic wig
$249.00
Machine made-notice length
difference
$105.00
Jordon - Handtied Synthetic Wig - Estetica Designs #123
https:/.../shop/files/master/d_2909.jpg
Semi-hand-tied wigs
•Combination of synthetic hair and hand-tied
human hair
•Reasonably priced
•Natural appearance
•Good durability
www.wigs.uk.net/.../Ella_HH_1_thm.JPG
Machine-made wigs
•Least expensive
•Restricts other styling options
www.todaystylist.com/wig_cap_wefted.gif
•Even after shampooing the style returns
•Wig construction will determine the direction in
which you style the hair
•Machine-made wigs offer no versatility
Taking Wig Measurements
•Use soft tape measure
•Close to the head without pressure
•Keep a written record of head measurements
* forward a copy to the wig dealer of
manufacturer
•Include: hair shade, quality of hair, length of hair,
and type of hair part and pattern
•Ready-to-wear
*no measuring is required
Adjustable
www.zarawigs.com/.../gloss-adjustable-tabs.jpg
Blocking the Wig
•Block is a head shaped form
•Canvas covered or Styrofoam
•Secured for fitting, cleaning, coloring, and
styling
www.alanwhite-anthology.com/.../4092a526cb.jpg
www.larocks.com/clown/images/wigblockL.jpg
•Pin with T-shaped pins at:
*Temples
*Above the ear
*Each corner of the nape
Putting on the Wig
•Instructing the client
*securing her hair under the cap
*flat and even
***Use hair wrap or PIN CURLS
•If wig does not fit properly
*vertical tuck and sew
•Sewing the wig to create a customized fit is a
highly specialized art
Cutting the Wig
•Your goal-make the hair look more realistic
•Taper the ends
•The more solid, the more unnatural
•Same sectioning and elevations as on a real head
of hair
•Cut free-form on dry hair
www.figure.fm/cgm/ecommerce/figure/images/lar...
•Wig is placed on block for cutting
•Comb-out and finishing touches-done on the
client’s head
•Free-form cutting
•Vertical sections
*create lightness
•Diagonal sections
*create rounder beveled edges
•Horizontal sections
*build heavier weight
•Cutting small sections
*observe how the hair falls
•Done on dry hair
•See how the hair will fall
•Razor, thinning shears, standard shears
*tapering methods only
Styling the Wig
•Handle gently
•Human hair, set the styling tool on low heat
•Do not pull
•Use brushes with natural boar-bristles
•Synthetic brushes that have smooth, rounded plastic
teeth
www.marieclaire.com/.../remix.6_11_06-lg.jpg
hair-skin-sun.com/media/catalog/product/cache...
•Be gentle
•Use a block for all coloring, perming, setting, and
basic cut outlining
•Finishing touches-on the client’s head
•Making a wig look believable is very challenging
•Truly an art form
•Most convincing area
*crown, part and the hairline
•General rule:
*follow the direction of the knotting and
weave
Styling Tips for the Hairline
•Styling products-for color-treated hair
•Backcomb gently around the hairline
•Release the client’s hair around the hairline
•Wind test
*gently blowdry around the client’s set at cool
and low
*observe how the hairline looks
•Styling:
*do not make it look perfect
*use your hands
*do not plaster the hair down
www.hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com/buy-wigs...
www.wigsforwomenonline.com/wig7.jpg
www.beautytrends.com/images/dept_ts.jpg
Cleaning the Wig
•Always follow manufacturer’s instructions
•Use gentle shampoo for color-treated hair
•Avoid harsh/dandruff shampoos
www.cocoswigboutique.com/store/images/P/Syn%2...
www.ehairexperts.com/.../2009/04/wash.jpg
Coloring Wigs and Extensions
•Synthetic haircolors
*standardized 70 colors
•Color range from black to palest blonde
•White Yak hair add fantasy colors
•To custom-color the hair
*check with the manufacturer
www.lacebeauty.co.uk/.../images/4524760958.jpg
fabulouslacewigs.net/Color-chart.jpg
•The principles that guide the coloring of natural
hair are applied to the art of coloring wigs and hair
extensions
•Check to see if the cuticle is intact
•If absent
*very porous
*will react to color in an extreme manner
•Strand test
•Use semi-permanent, demipermanent, glaze, rinse,
or colored mousse products
•Use permanent haircolor on human hair wigs
unless hair is porous, then semi-permanent is better
•Color checks every 5-10 minutes
•Remember: hair did not come from one head
*can be unpredictable
Perming the Wigs and Hair Additions
•Human hair only
•Do not perm hair if it has been colored with a
metallic dye
•Performed off of the client’s head
•Cover head form with plastic
•Pin the wig securely
*perm as you would a normal head of hair
Hairpieces
• Hairpiece gives 20-70%coverage
• Sit on top of client’s hair
• Attached by temporary methods
img.diytrade.com/cdimg/800594/6975468/0/12375...
• Many different types:
*integration pieces, toupees,
fashion hairpieces
www.elicecollection.com/category_pics/11.jpg
Fashion hairpieces include:
*falls, half wigs, wiglets, chignons,
bandeaus, cascades, ponytails, bangs, and
fillers (add volume to fine hair)
•Newest fashion hairpieces simply clip on
*pressure-sensitive clips, claw clips, or cpmbs
•Client’s hair prepared
*ponytail or bun
*French twist
•blended with or serve as a base
www.hrweddinghair.com/Hairpieces2.jpg
www.liweddings.com/chat/p/3606748_1.jpg
***Temporary attachments methods include:
*interlocking combs
* flexible wire combs
* elastic
*claw clips
site.voguewigs.com/images/splash/hd-wrap-arou...
*Velcro
www.playwithhair.com/wigs/hairpiece_1.jpg
www.hatandhair.com/_img/hairpieces_liz.jpg
www.humanhairpieces.com/HairBTweenz%20images/...
www.pea.co.il/.../696912696912_1180533574.JPG
***Too much hair
*looks out of balance
***Ill-fitting
*negative attention
www.tomtop.com/images/l/200911/12594738270.jpg
jay3arr.files.wordpress.com/2008/08/hoops_wei...
Integration Hairpieces
•Opening through base
*client’s hair pulled through
•Lightweight
•Natural-looking
•Add length and volume
www.humanhairpieces.com/images/product_images...
•Thinning hair-not total hair loss
Toupees
•Small wig used to cover the top and crown of the
head
•Severe hair loss
•Two ways to attach:
temporary-tape or clips
semi-permanent
www.bicolhair.com/images/MenToupee2.jpg
*weaving, tracks, adhesive, or sewing
www.tradeeasy.com/.../1238055182095_Wig_tape.jpg
www.hairdirect.com/.../scalpprep/scalpprep4a.jpg
www.bargainlacewigs.co.uk/images/justrite.jpg
•Wearers gain confidence
•Authentic-looking hairpiece
*pay a high price for it
www.bicolhair.com/images/MenToupee.jpg
$437
www.hairsetup.com/Human_Hair_Toupee.jpg
Fashion Hairpieces
•Special occasions
*fashion accessory
•Vary in size
•Attached with hairpins, clips, combs, bobby
pins, or elastic
samanthalaurakaye.com/site/wp-content/uploads...
www.farrellandchase.com/tag/fashion/
Three attachment methods:
•Wraparound ponytail
*covers 10-20% of the head
•Useful for the client who can just get her own hair
into a ponytail
•Cascade of curls is attached with combs
•Hair wrap is mounted on an elastic loop, secured to
client’s own hair with hairpins
•Increasingly popular service
Hair Extensions
•Hair additions that add length, volume, texture, or
color
•Can be human hair, synthetic hair, or a blend
•Wefts of hair attached one-by-one pr clip-in
extensions
www.real-hair-extensions.com/wp-content/uploa...
Manufacturers offer training
General guidelines:
•Decide-length and thickness
www.zawaj.com/.../10/clip-in-hair-extensions.jpg
•Map out desired style
•Stay 1” away from:
*hairline-front, sides, nape, and part
•Very thin hair-be careful base does not show
through
•Curly hair-match or add another curl pattern
•Thin hair-may not need as many
Extension methods include:
*braid-and-sew
*bonding (fusion bonding)
*linking
*shrinking
Most important approaches should be
practiced in the following order: Read 1-4
Braid-and-Sew Attachment Method
•Secured by sewing
•Attached to an on-the-scalp braid (cornrow)
*track
www.lace-front-wig.com/.../hair-weave-photo.jpg
Wefts can also be attached by creating a track, using fiber
filler
*filler and hair are braided together
~underhand braiding technique
~creates longer lasting braid
•The angle of the track will determine how the
hair will fall
•Tracks: horizontal, vertical, or diagonal, or along
curved lines
•Partings are determined to the style
•Size of sections by the amount of hair that will
be added
•Plan so the ends are hidden
*1 inch behind the hair line
•When sewing, use only a blunt,
*custom-designed needle
*either straight or curved
•Blunt ends help avoid damage to the hair/client
www.sarahjanespa.com/sewn%20in%20extensions.jpg
Extensions can be sewn to the track using a
variety of stitches
•Lock stitch
*create a loop
*loop and wrap thread
*pull tight to form a lock stitch to
secure
*weft to the track
*entire length/evenly spaced
http://www.hairdobang.com/hair-extensions/braid-in-sew-in-extensions-how-totutorial
Double lock stitch
*thread is wound around the needle
twice
Overcast stitch
*pass needle under both track and the
weft
*bring it back
*repeat the stitch
*complete with a lock stitch for
security
Advantages:
*if done correctly-very safe technique
*requires no special equipment
*with practice-fairly quick
Drawbacks:
*too much tension-client’s hair can be
damaged
*not appropriate for-extremely damaged
hair and baby-fine hair, or clients that
don’t keep their scalps clean
Bonding Method
•wefts or single strands with an adhesive or a
bonding agent
*adhesive applied with an applicator gun
*not the kind available in craft stores!!!
•A special tool created specifically for bonding
www.bjmaka.com/Upload/Pic/200985144744593.jpg
www.changing-styles.com/Application_Methods.html
www.extensionshairstudio.com/images/ba1.jpg
www.bridgat.com/.../Prebonded_hair_extension.jpg
http://www.hair-extension-specialists.co.uk/why-we-do-hair-extensions.php
Bonding-wefts with adhesive:
•Natural hair should be at least
4 inches long
•Sits snugly on the head
•Fast to apply
www.hairtrade.com/.../currency/GBP/page/6
www.ehow.com/how_2160410_apply-temporary-hair...
•Lasts from 2 to 4 weeks
•Salon visits as often as every 2 weeks
•Can shampoo/done gently
***Sticky backing-peel, stick to hairlasts 4-7 days
www.hoobly.com/0/0/1193499.html
•Bonding procedure-section off hair at the nape
•Measure the weft against the parting ¼” to ½”
from the hairline
•Lay weft on flat surface and carefully apply
adhesive along the base
thehairextensionboutique.co.uk
•Use a consistent amount of adhesive; too much
will ooze onto the head; too little will not
adhere
•Lightly press the weft against the clean partings
•Hold 20 seconds
•Use a blow-dryer on low to medium heat to help
seal the bond
•Proceed to the next section, working upward on
the head until the desired length and
volume are achieved
•Avoid working too close to the crown or the
partings
***Caution: do not glue the scalp!!!!
•Work 1 inch away from the hairline
aonehair.com
•Mrs. Mandato prefers to cut the wefts into 2” sections and glue
them in at a staggered (checkerboard) pattern, looks more natural
and all of the weight of the weft is not pulling on the hair in the
same place
•Removed by dissolving the adhesive with oil or
bond remover
•Same technique can be used
with loose hair or wefts cut
very small (called strand bonding)
Advantages:
•Affordable pricing
•Complete service around average haircut appointment
(20 minutes)
•Shampooed gently
www.ehow.com/how_4869873_hair-extension-glue-...
Drawbacks:
•Some clients may have allergic reaction to
bonding adhesive
•Perform patch test
•Not appropriate for severely damaged hair or do
not have enough natural hair to hide the
wefts
•Cannot be exposed to oils-slide off
•Should not attach wefts longer than 12” long
Fusion Method
• Bonded to the client’s own hair with a bonding
material that is activated by the heat from a
special tool
•Expensive-time consuming
*no uncomfortable and unattractive attachment
sites
•Light and comfortable to wear
•Moves like real hair
cambridge.gumtree.com/cambridge/59/52069859.html
loushouseofdesign.com/fusion
price
$450.00 for 18" hair
extensions.
www.silkybeauty.com/Extension.html
•Easy to maintain
•Lasts up to 4 months
•Removal is quick and painless
•Requires certification training
***Best choice for client’s with fine, limp hair
www.ehow.com/how_5416022_care-fusion-hair-ext...
www.delmardemos.com/fusion-hair-extensions.html
•Fusion bonding procedure involves wrapping a
keratin-based strip around both the client’s
hair and the extension or with a special gunapplicator
•Many are pre-tipped or keratin tipped
•Natural strands along a parting are selected and
then isolated with a hair shield
•Extension is positioned under the natural hair
and near the base
•The heating element is applied until the
bonding agent is softened
•The bond is rolled between the fingers,
creating a bead that captures both
natural and the extension strand
use a fusion remover when needed
(breaks down the keratin in the bonding)
Advantages:
•Client’s hair will dry more quickly (less bulk
than full wefts)
•By using slightly different colors-create an
illusion of depth or a highlighted effect
•Allows for style versatility
Drawbacks: time-consuming
pre-tipped extension are expensive
Read rest of the paragraph
Linking
•Hook is used to pick up small amount of hair
•Link is slide on close to scalp with special tool
•Then, an extension is inserted into the link
•Link is pinched flat with pliers
•Removed with a removal tool (pliers)
•Extensions can be reused
<iframe width="420" height="315"
src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Ooi
Vw-exWro" frameborder="0"
allowfullscreen></iframe>
•Natural hair- at least 5 inches long
Advantages:
*styling versatility
*natural hair can be maintained
Drawbacks:
*expensive
*time consuming
*metal links can rust
Tube Shrinking
•Client’s hair and addition strand are
inserted into a tube
•Heated to shrink it
•Special tools and training
Problems can arise:
•Caused by stylist or client (not material)
Stylist
*Must follow logical placement pattern
*pay attention to natural growth patterns
*provide complete home care instructions
Client:
*follow home care instructions carefully
*keep hair neat and clean
*must return to salon regularly for
maintenance
Hair for sale
•Great retail product
*sell themselves
•Substantial income
themeanestmom.blogspot.com/2009/06/manna-at-m...
Guidelines:
•Identify clients needs
•Explain why it’s worthwhile
*features and benefits
*performance and cost
•Choose high-quality
•Work with only the best
•Believe in your recommendations
•Price services accordingly to your time,
materials, and expertise
•Work with one or two companies that offer:
*human and synthetic hair
*high quality products
*good customer service
*first rate support
*education
~training
~seminars
~videos
•Stick with companies that stand by their
products
Practice, Practice, Practice
•exciting, challenging, and lucrative areas of
cosmetology
•Become skilled-practice
•Help people look good and feel good about
themselves
•Great satisfaction in
*working with people who have suffered the
trauma of hair loss