MODULE I
Introduction to Textile Industry
1.1. Industry Infrastructure and its Profile
 India is a traditional textile -producing country with textiles in general, and
cotton in particular, being major industries for the country.
 India is among the world’s top producers of yarns and fabrics, and the export
quality of its products is ever increasing.
 Indian Textile Industry is the second largest textile industry in the world
after China.
 Apart from providing one of the basic necessities of life i.e. cloth, the textile
industry contributes about 14% to the country's industrial output and about
17% to export earnings.
 After agriculture this industry provides employment to maximum number of
people in India employing 35 million people. Besides, another 50 million
people are engaged in allied activities.
 Almost 33 % of its knitwear production and about 20% of its woven –
garment production, both by volume, enters export markets.
 Overall about 25% of the volume of its garment production goes into export
markets, leaving 75% for domestic consumption.
 Fibre-wise, 80% of the production is of cotton garments, 15% of
synthetic/mixed garments and the rest of silk and wool garments.
 In recent times the textile and apparel industry is spread over in all parts of
India.
1.1.1. Textile industry contributes
 4% of GDP
 9% of excise collections
 18% of employment in industrial sector,
 16 % share in the country’s export
 25% share in the world trade of cotton yarn.
 12% of the world’s production of textile fibers and yarn
 23% of the world’s spindle capacity
 61% in world loom
 12% of the country’s total export (Apparels Industry)
1.1.2. Major textiles hubs in India
 NCR
 Gujarat
 Maharashtra
 Uttar Pradesh
 West Bengal
 Tamil Nadu
 Madhya Pradesh
 Rajasthan
1.1.3. Major apparel hubs in India
 Tirupur
 Ludhiana
 Bengaluru
 Delhi / Noida / Gurgaon
 Mumbai
 Kolkata
 Jaipur
 Indore
1.2. Textile Industry – Categories
The textile industry can be broadly classified into two categories,
(1) The organized mill sector
 The organized sector of the textile industry represents the mills.
 It could be a spinning mill or a composite mill.
 Composite mill is one where the spinning, weaving and processing
facilities are carried out under one roof.
(2) The unorganized decentralized sector
 The decentralized sector is engaged mainly in the weaving activity,
which makes it heavily dependent on the organized sector for their
yarn requirements.
 This decentralized sector is comprised of the three major segments
viz., power loom, handloom and hosiery.
 In addition to the above, there are readymade garments, khadi as well
as carpet manufacturing units in the decentralized sector.
1.3. Different Textile Sectors in India
The Man-Made Fiber / Yarn and Power loom Sector
 This part of industry includes fiber and filament yarn manufacturing
units.
 The Power looms sector is decentralized and plays a vital role in Indian
Textiles Industry. It produces large variety of cloths to fulfill different
needs of the market. It is the largest manufacturer of fabric and
produces a wide variety of cloth.
 The sector contributes around 62% of the total cloth production in the
country and provides ample employment opportunities to 4.86 million
people.
The Cotton Sector
 Cotton is one of the major sources of employment and contributes in
export in promising manner. This sector provides huge employment
opportunities to around 50 million people related activities like
Cultivation, Trade, and Processing.
 India’s Cotton sector is second largest producer of cotton products in
the world.
The Handloom Sector
 The handloom sector plays a very important role in the country’s
economy.
 It is the second largest sector in terms of employment, next only to
agriculture.
 This sector accounts for about 13% of the total cloth produced in the
country (excluding wool, silk and Khadi).
The Woolen Sector
 The Woolen Textile sector is an Organized and Decentralized Sector.
 The major part of the industry is rural based. India is the 7th largest
producer of wool, and has 1.8% share in total world production.
 The share of apparel grade is 5%, carpet grade is 85%, and coarse grade
is 10% of the total production of raw wool.
 The Industry is highly dependent on import of raw wool material, due
to inadequate production.
The Jute Sector
 Jute Sector plays very important role in Indian Textile Industry.
 Jute is called Golden fiber and after cotton it is the cheapest fiber
available.
 Indian Jute Industry is the largest producer of raw jute and jute products
in the world.
 India is the second largest exporter of jute goods in world.
The Sericulture and Silk Sector
 The Silk industry has a unique position in India, and plays important
role in Textile Industry and Export.
 India is the 2nd largest producer of silk in world and contributes 18% of
the total world raw silk production. In India Silk is available with
varieties such as, Mulberry, Eri, Tasar, and Muga.
 Sericulture plays vital role in cottage industry in the country. It is the
most labor-intensive sector that combines both Agriculture and
Industry.
The Handicraft Sector
 The Indian handicrafts industry is highly labor intensive, cottage based
and decentralized industry.
 It plays a significant & important role in the country’s economy.
 It provides employment to a vast segment of craft persons in rural &
semi urban areas and generates substantial foreign exchange for the
country, while preserving its cultural heritage.
1.4. Textile Organizations
The following are some governmental, semi-governmental, private bodies
and associations, which are working for the smooth running of the commerce of
textile in India.
 The Ministry of Textiles
 Advisory Bodies
 Export Promotion Councils
 Autonomous Bodies
 Statutory Bodies
 Textiles Research Associations
Ministry of Textiles
The following are the principal functional areas of the Ministry:
 Textile Policy & Coordination
 Man-made Fiber/ Filament Yarn Industry
 Cotton Textile Industry
 Jute Industry
 Silk and Silk Textile Industry
 Wool & Woolen Industry
 Decentralized Power loom Sector
 Export Promotion
Advisory Bodies
 All India Handlooms Board
 All India Handicrafts Board
 All India Power looms Board
 Co-ordination Council of Textiles Research Association
 Cotton Advisory Board
Export Promotion Councils
 Apparel Export Promotion Council, New Delhi
 Carpet Export Promotion Council, New Delhi
 Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council, Mumbai
 Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts, New Delhi
 Handloom Export Promotion Council, Chennai
 Indian Silk Export Promotion Council, Mumbai
 Power loom Development & Export Promotion Council, Mumbai
 Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council, Mumbai
 Wool & Woolen Export Promotion Council, New Delhi
Textiles Research Associations
 Ahmedabad Textiles Industry’s Research Association
 Bombay Textiles Research Association, Mumbai
 Indian Jute Industries Research association, Kolkata
 Man-made Textiles Research Association, Surat
 Synthetic and art silk –Mills Research Association, Mumbai
 Wool Research Association, Thane
 Northern India Textiles Research Association, Ghaziabad
 South India Textiles Research Association, Coimbatore
1.5. SWOT Analysis of Indian Textile & Apparel Industry
 SWOT analysis is a strategic planning method used to evaluate the
Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, and Threats involved in a project
or in a business venture.
 It involves specifying the objective of the business venture or project
and identifying the internal and external factors that are favorable and
unfavorable to achieve that objective.
Strengths
 Strong cotton base
 Strong entrepreneurial class
 Flexibility in production of small order lots
 Ability to handle value additions, embellishments etc.
 Adequate labour supply at relatively competitive wages
 Good "cultural" comfort with US and Europe
 Growing Domestic Market
Weakness
 Poor work practices resulting in higher labour cost
 Rigid government labour policy
 High transaction and power cost
 Too much emphasis on cotton, synthetic fibre base not equally
developed
 Fabric/processing still to gear up to meet international standards
 Technological obsolescence and lower efficiencies
 A lack of strong linkages between raw material supplier and the apparel
manufacturer.
Opportunities
 Quotas carried on in China after 2005.
 Good political equation with EU and US.
 Improvements in infrastructure and regulations.
 Research and product development
 Buyers preference for India, after China
 Understanding buyers need because of language advantage
Threats
 Rupee appreciation/depreciation
 Trade blocs and partnerships at the exclusion of India.
 Location disadvantage: long transit time to key markets.
 Pricing pressure, following opening up of quotas
 Enhanced competition from other countries
1.6. Fundamental Structure of the Industry
Textile producers
Apparel manufacturers
Wholesalers
Retailers
Consumers
 A textile producer purchases the raw material (yarn), produces the product
and sells the finished product (fabric) to apparel manufacturers.
 Apparel manufacturers purchases raw material (fabric), makes the product
and sells the finished product (garment) to wholesalers / or retailers.
 The wholesalers buy apparel goods usually directly from manufacturers.
 The retailers buy apparel goods from wholesalers or directly from
manufacturers.
 The retailers sell the apparel goods to many different consumers.
 Consumer is someone who uses the goods
1.7. Work Flow in a Garment-Manufacturing Unit (Fabric
Inspection to Finishing)
Fabric & Accessories in-house - Raw material Inspection
Spreading
Marker Making
Cutting
- In process Inspection
Sorting and Bundling
Sewing
Pressing and Finishing
Packing
- Final Inspection
Fabric & Accessories in-house
Fabric spreading
 In this stage, fabric is spread on table properly for cutting.
 It is done by manually/computerized.
Marker making
 Marker is a very thin paper which contains all the parts of a particular
garment.
 Marker making process is done by manually/ computerized.
Cutting

The fabric is cut according to the marker dimensions.
 This process is done by manually/computerized.
Sorting and Bundling

The cut fabrics are then sorted and bundled according to their size and
color.
 This process is done by manually.
Sewing

In this section, all the parts of a garment are joined to make a complete
garment.
 Sewing process is done by manually.
Pressing and Finishing

After sewing process, the garments are pressed and are added such as
thread loose cutting, tag attaching etc.
 This process is done by using manually.
Packing

Complete garments are packed by using buyer instructed poly bag and
carton box.
 This process is done manually.
Inspection

It is the visual examination process.
 This process occurs from raw material stage (fabric) to finished product
stage (garment)
1.8. Importance of Design in Production - Designers Role in Producing
Functional and Production Friendly Designs
Functional Designs
 As a Designer, need to take care about the latest trend and creative design
according to the industry demands.
 Unlike Designer, Functional clothing is a big term where, garments were
design according to the requirement of the Customer.
 The requirement can be anything, for comfort, performance or may be
according to the environment, he or she lives in.
 Garments are usually designed with 2 Aspects: Physical Aspect and
Performance Aspect.
 Physical Aspects is how the garment looks like whereas Performance Aspect
is what the garment does.
 Physical aspects of the garment regulate its performance. Therefore,
consumer attracts those garments which they believe will fulfill both aspects.
Production Friendly Clothing
 A large part of product costs is determined by the material and specification
choices of the Designer. Many Designer use double Ply threads to increase
the tendency of the Garments.
 Standardize designs are right tool to identify the design without spec sheet
which reduces the cost while production. For example, ready to wear clothes
have less cost because of the standard design identification.
 Collaborates with Manufacturers, Designers, weavers help in reducing cost
of production. As source the fabric, trims and identify the quality of the
fabric, which helps in reducing cost 5 %.
 When choose Innovative packaging, it reduces the cost of butter paper, collar
support, and back support. This is very important for designer to select
innovative packaging; it attracts customer too.
 Using local trims and fasteners can cut the cost too much; expensive houses
cut their cost like this only. Pockets, underlining and finishing can be
reducing in heavy fabric.
 Capital intensive can reduce the cost by not paying to the labor. In
machinery, production becomes high, where it reduces the cost of the
production.
 Water used in production can be recycled by using that water in dyeing and
other productive use.
 Garments can be reversible. Inner lining could be interesting with the waste
fabric, patch work, and can be use further.
 Labors can be skilled and professional, so that it reduces the wastage of
fabric. A professional labor knows how to cut the cost and create a garment
with less wastage. It becomes very helpful for the designer, not to think too
much about cost cutting.
 Pattern master and flat illustrator should be accurate, so that could help in
cutting less fabric and saving more wastage of fabric.
 By giving fewer seams in the garment, it becomes cheaper as patterns cut
regularly and without a break.
 Patterns should not be cut by hand but by machinery, which helps is
reduction of wastage of paper and fabric and reduces the work of labor.
 By purchasing good quality dyes and fabrics, dyers and instructors, it
becomes less expensive as the wastage is reducing because of the good
quality product.
1.9. Process Involved in Designing a Design Sheet
Process of Product Development
For most factories the process of product development involves seven stages
1. Forecasting
2. Designing
3. Collection Planning
4. Pattern Making
5. Technology
6. Production of sample garments
7. Pattern Grading
1. Forecasting
 This stage commences with the evaluation and interpretation of the market’s
future needs in terms of fashion and price.
 Marketing is a collection of activities that include market research, consumer
surveys, and customer service.
 The objective is to arrive at a collection of products for sale in the future and
then to promote this collection in the market.
 The ultimate goal is a collection that can be produced for minimum risk and
maximum return.
2. Designing
 In practice, the designer starts by preparing some sketches of the core
ideas for the collection and selecting the fabrics and trim to be used for
each design.
 These core designs are garments which contain the main design and
fabric features of the collection and they will be used as the themes for
developing the full range of samples.
 Elements of Clothing Design
 The style, color, decoration, material, trimmings and technique are
fundamental elements of clothing design.
3. Collection Planning
 The collection plan concerns all those sections of the company that are
involved in the development, making and selling of a collection.
 A basic concept for the new season’s collection is developed by the
company Direction together with product managers and designers.
 The collection has to be coordinated to the seasonal and product
requirements of the retail trade.
 Both summer and winter seasons are subdivided into individual segments.
 These segments are given theme names and each will be composed of a
number of items according to the style, fabrics and colors which form a
fashion trend.
4. Pattern Making
 This function connects design to production by producing paper
templates for all the components, such as cloth, lining and fusible, which
have to be cut for a garment.
 Pattern making is highly skilled technique which calls for technical
ability, a sensitivity for design interpretation and a practical
understanding of the process technology used by the factory.
5. Technology
 It is possible that a new style feature requires the use of a special type of
machine which the factory does not possess, and this is the time when
decisions have to be made as whether this particular item of equipment
should be purchased, or whether an acceptable substitute can be found
from what is available in the factory, or whether minor modifications to
the design / pattern will allow existing machinery to be utilized.
6. Production of Sample Garments
 Sample garments are usually produced by a small unit supervised by the
pattern master /maker and/or designer, and this unit has an important role
in determining the results of the forthcoming season.
7. Pattern Grading
 Pattern Grading is a process whereby patterns of different sizes are
produced from the original master pattern. This process can be performed
either manually or automatically by a computer system.
1.10. Predetermined Motion Time System (PMTS)
 A predetermined motion time system (PMTS) consists of a set of time
data for basic human motions and a systematic procedure which analyses
and subdivides any manual operation of human task into motions, body
movements, or other elements of human performance, and assigns to each
the appropriate time value.
 Each system of time data was originally developed from extensive studies
of all aspects of human performance through measurement, evaluation,
and validation procedures.
1.11. Counter Sample
 Counter sample can be defined as the reference sample of the original and
signed sample.
 Counter samples are a copy of the original samples. In case, approved
samples are not available when needed or the sample required by the
different teams at the same time, the factory can refer the counter sample
by giving internal merchandising or quality team.
 Especially the pre-production sample (PP Sample) is a very important one
to factory merchandising team, quality team and production team. At
some point, every department needs to refer to the PP sample. But the
factory gets only one approved PP sample the buyer. So when needed to
share the counter sample with the factory team.
 Secondly, the buyer intimates factory about approvals the sample by mail
after checking and approving the PP Sample. But factory receives the
signed sample after a couple of days. To start the bulk production without
delay factory follow the counter sample.
 Some merchandisers always keep one reference sample in their locker. In
case sealed and signed sample is lost they refer to that counter sample.
 Counter sample is not signed by buyer. Normally counter sample is
locally signed by merchandiser
1.13.0. Pre-Production Process
1.13.1. Materials Sourcing
 Sourcing is the determination of the most cost – effective vendor of
materials and/or production at a specified quality and service level.
 Sourcing processes are rapidly changing to take advantage of
improvements in communication technology and business partnerships.
Primary and Secondary Sources of Fabrics
 In textile trade there are primary and secondary sources of fabrics.

Primary Sources: Mills and Converters

Secondary Sources: Re-salers’ (This includes Jobbers, brokers,
wholesalers, retail stores, and apparel manufacturers.)
1.13.2. Fabric Selection
 Fabrics used in garment manufacturing can be categorized into two
groups:
(1) Properties
(2) Characteristics
Physical Properties of Fabrics
Physical properties are the static physical dimensions of fabric.
 Fibre
 Yarn
 Weight
 Thickness
 Fabric structure
 Finishes
 Fabric width
 Colour
 Fabric density
 Surface contour
Physical Characteristics of Fabrics
 Physical characteristics are the dynamic physical parameters of fabric.
 They are physical changes in the fabric that result from applying
outside forces on the fabric.
 Most of the durability and utility values of fabric are characteristics
and not properties.
 There are four major categories of fabric characteristics that interest
the apparel manufacturer:
1. Style characteristics
2. Utility characteristics
3. Durability characteristics
4. Product production characteristics
1. Style characteristics
 Style characteristics are those changes which affect the emotional appeal,
the fabric imparts to the consumer.
 The three basic categories for style characteristics are:
1. Hand
2. Tactile
3. Visual
2. Utility characteristics
 Utility characteristics are changes in the fit, comfort, and wearing
functions of the garment when the fabric engages a mechanical thermal,
electrical, or chemical force during the utilization of the garment.
 The two major types of utility characteristics are transmission and
transformation.
 A transmission characteristic transmits mass or energy through the
fabric. Transmission characteristics include:
1. Air permeability
2. Heat transmission
3. Light permeability
4. Moisture transmission
 Transformation characteristics change a physical property of the
fabric. The property dimension(s) is altered without destroying the
fabric. Changes which disintegrate the fabric are durability
characteristics. Transformation characteristics include:
1. Colour fastness
2. Crease resistance
3. Crock resistance
4. Dimensional stability
5. Pilling
6. Shrinkage
7. Static electricity etc.
3. Durability characteristics
 Durability characteristics are the capacities of fabric to maintain the style
and utility characteristics during wear.
 It is the measure of stress which destroys the fabric or the fabrics ability
to repeat a desired style or utility characteristic.
 The durability characteristics are:
1. Abrasive strength
2. Bursting strength
3. Launder ability
4. Tearing strength
5. Tensile strength
6. Fire resistance
7. Corrosive strength
8. Dry cleaning durability
4. Product production characteristics
 Product production working characteristics are those characteristics
which affect the quality of production with respect to quality values and
the cost of production method. The working characteristics of a fabric
include:
1. Seam strength
2. Seam slippage
3. Sewing distortions
4. Bond ability strength
1.13.3. Apparel Fabrics for Women and Children
 Discuss about the fabric selection for the following women’s garments
(a) Women’s skirts
 Women's skirts are cut on straight, the bias, or circularly from the
same fabrics that are used for dresses and suits.
 The fit or, more particularly the hang of skirt is important.
 A skirt should not wrinkle below the waistband and should be even
at hem.
(b) Women’s sweaters
 The sweater, a knitted of garment for the upper part of the body,
has long been a staple for both casual and dressy wear.
(c) Blouses
 Wash - and - wear blouses is important in any women's wardrobe.
 Fabrics that resist wrinkling are those made of
 polyesters, and
 Blends of polyester and cotton (65/35 %),
 polyester and rayon (55% or more polyester with rayon),
 50% or more polyester with acrylic
 80% or more acrylic with cotton or 55% or more acrylic with
wool.
 100% rayon and 100% silk
(d) Coats and suits
 When women buy coats they look for style, color, fabric, fit,
comfort and price.
 Coats of cashmere and wool & wool blends, camel's hair, single
and bonded cloths, poplin etc.
 Suits and pantsuits of gabardine, whipcord, tweed faille, covert,
serge, corduroy, knitted fabrics.
 Coats made of fur like fabrics, wool tweed, cashmere ottoman,
covert, cashmere, Melton, wool broadcloth are used in winter
season.
 Suits and pantsuits of knitted fabric (wool and blends), flannel,
tweed boucle.
(e) Women's undergarments
 Women's undergarments consist of soft, lightweight attractive,
minimum.
 Rayon, acetate, nylon, other synthetics elastic fibres (rubber and
spandex) in mixtures or blends, and any kind of lightweight cotton
or blend in plain weaves or knitted. Common fabrics used for
nylon lingerie include nylon tricot (sometimes called jersey) mesh,
crepe and satin.
(f) Sleep wear
 Gowns, pyjamas, and coat - and - gown or coat - and - pyjama sets
can be tailored or lace trimmed.
 Some common fabrics used for gowns and pyjamas are rayon,
acetate, silk or nylon crepe, silk pongee, cotton, pllisse, batiste,
some chiffons and georgettes, cotton knits, and nylon and rayon
tricot.
1.13.4. Apparel Fabrics for Men's and Boy's Wear
Men’s and Boy’s Furnishings
 Shirts, sleepwear, underwear, hosiery,
Men's clothing & Boys clothing
 Suits, topcoats, cover coats,
robes, ties, hand kerchiefs, belts,
jackets and slacks. Boy's
suspenders, garters, muffles and scarf,
clothing includes suits,
sweaters and bathing suits.
topcoats, overcoats, jackets,
 Men's jewellery (non - textile) such as
and raincoats.
cuff links, studs, tie clips and stickpins,
are also commonly included in the
classification.
(a) Shirt
 Shirt may be classified according to the occasion for which they are
worn:
1. Dress
2. Work
3. Sports and
4. Formal.
 Dress shirts are usually all white, solid coloured or stripped. For work
shirts khaki, dark blue or blacked are common colours.
 Sports shirts may be white, solid coloured, plaids, stripes or checks.
Men's dress shirts sizes run 14 to 17 (neckband measurements).
 All cotton or polyester and cotton blends are commonly used for shirting.
 Best quality fabric for shirt is produced from 2 x 2 combed cotton of
count of 144 x 76, mercerized, and shrinkage controlled.
 Poorer grades may have the following weakness: 2 x 1 (two - ply warp
and single filling) or single carded yarns in both warp and filling; a count
as low as 100 x 56; little or no mercerization.
 Work shirts for utility wear are made of sturdy fabrics, such as
mercerized cotton twill, polished cotton, a blend of 65% Dacron polyester
and 35% cotton poplin, blends of 17%
 Nylon and 83% cotton twill, all cotton chino 65% Dacron polyester and
35% combed cotton gabardine, all - cotton denim, and all - cotton drill.
 Shirts for formal wear are usually pleated or plain, with a starched or soft
bosom depending on the current mode. Fabrics include pique, broad
cloth, silk or synthetic fibered crepe, and blends.
1.13.4. Strike-off
 The specimen or swatch submitted to buyer for print colours approval is
known as print strike-off or simply strike-off.
 During sample development or prior to production printing, suppliers
develop these strike-offs from a printer (printing house).
 For strike-off sample printing, actual production fabric and actual base
colour is used.
 Like lab dip approval process, supplier internally matches colours of print
design in light box prior to submitting strike-offs.
MODULE – II
2.1. Trims
 The materials or components except the main fabric used in the garments
are called trims.
 Besides the main fabric, various additional things are used for making the
garments.
 Trims include Sewing Thread, Button, Zipper, Velcro, Label, Shoulder
pad, Linings, Interlinings, etc.
 Trimmings or trims are of two types namely visible trims and invisible
trims.
 Some trims are used for functional purposes and some are for decorative
purposes in garments.
2.1.1. Trims Types
Sewing Threads
It is available in many forms of packages. The threads are wound on these
packages with a minimum of 180 meters (spool) to maximum of 5000 meters
(cone). The count of the sewing thread yarn is generally 2/40S or 3/60S. The
ticket number ranges from 40 to 80 are preferred for garment sewing.
Buttons
One of the most common methods used to join two pieces of a garment is
to apply buttons and button holes. These are especially effective at sleeve cuts,
centre fronts of jackets, coats, blouse and shirts.
In men‟s wear the buttons are place on the right side (the under lap), in
women‟s clothing, the left side is the under lap and buttons are placed on the
left. Buttons are also used for decoration purpose. The button sizes are
mentioned as “Ligne – L” Ex. 18 L, 20L, 24L.
Zipper
The zippers are used extensively as closures in shirts, shorts, skirts etc...
Zippers length varies from 4 inch to 24 inches and it can be cut to any length.
Zippers are available in synthetic material and metals. Plastic zippers used in
various for decorating the outfits. Metal zippers are most commonly found in
heavy duty applications and nylon zippers are found in light weight apparels.
Labels:
Label is an attached component of garment on which important
information regarding the garment are written or printed. No garment can be
sold without some kind of label attached to it. Specially, in case of export
business label on garment is must.
Main label: Main label contains brand name or trade name of buyer
which is registered by the buyer e.g. Levi‟s, Polo, Adidas, GAP, Lewis
Philippe, etc.
Size label: It indicates the size of the garment i.e. S, M, L, XL, XXL, or
collar length of shirt 15, 16, 17, 18, etc.
Care label: It contains the care instructions of the garment by some
internationally recognized signs. It shows the washing, drying, dry-cleaning and
ironing conditions of garments.
Shoulder pad:
Shoulder pad is a standard item in tailored garments for both women and
men. Linings are used on the top and bottom of shoulder pad. As a result, the
appearance becomes more attractive, comfortable and lasts for a long time.
Shoulder pads are used for functional purposes and sometimes for decorative
purposes.
Hangtags
Hangtags are the labels attached to clothing which usually contain the
basic information about the item. Size, price, brand… all this can be found on
the hangtag. A hang tag is a small cardboard or plastic label that hangs from an
item of clothing and gives information such as size, color, fabric, and price.
Snap fastener:
A snap fastener (also called snap, popper, and press stud) is a pair of
interlocking discs commonly used in place of buttons to fasten clothing. A
circular lip under one-disc fits into a groove on the top of the other, holding
them fast until a certain amount of force is applied. Snaps can be attached to
fabric by hammering (using a specific punch and die set), plying, or sewing.
Hook and loop fastener (Velcro):
This item consists of two woven poly-amide tapes; one is covered with
very fine hooks and the other with very fine loops. When pressed together they
adhere (stick) securely to each other. This fastener is also used instead of
buttons or zippers. e.g. shoes, belts, sportswear, children wear, medical textiles,
etc. Velcro is available in roll form in the market which has most common
width of 5/8 to 3/4 inch.
Hook and eye closure:
A hook-and-eye closure is a clothing fastener that consists of two parts,
each sewn to their respective pieces of cloth, one with a small protruding blunt
hook, and the other with a small loop (also known as the “eye” or “eyelet”)
protruding. To fasten the garment, the hook is slotted into the loop. Hook-andeye closures are typically used in groups to provide sufficient strength to bear
the forces involved in normal wear. To construct the garment, sections of hookand-eye tape are sewn into either side of the garment closure. Hook-and-eye
closures are commonly used in corset.
Pocketing Fabric:
A shaped piece of fabric attached inside or outside a garment and forming
a pouch used vis a vis for carrying small articles. For pocketing, cotton fabric is
mostly used in garments.
2.2. Interlinings & Fusing
2.2.1. Interlining
 Interlining is one kind of accessories that is used between the two layers of
fabric in a garment.
 Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. It is made cotton, nylon,
polyester, wool and viscose (woven, knitted or a non-woven fabric)
 Interlining is generally used in collar, cuffs, waist band, front facing of coat,
outerwear plackets, jackets, blazers etc.
 The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics by applying heat
and pressure for a certain time is called Fusible Interlining. Fusible
interlining is used for all kinds of apparel.
 The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics directly by
sewing without heat and pressure is called non-fuse interlining. This type of
interlining is also called sewn interlining or non-fusible interlining.
2.2.2. Fusing
 Fusing means melting. In clothing industry, it refers to the joining of an
interlining material to a fabric component. The interlinings used are called
fusible.
 A base fabric (Interlining material), otherwise called a substrate. Base fabric
surface coated on one side with a thermoplastic adhesive resin melted by
heating into the fabric under pressure and when it becomes cool and hard;
both fabric and interlining are attached strongly.
 The wrong combination of these two parameters can lead to a number of
problems like strike-through, strike-back and thermal shrinkage.
 Fusing is controlled by four processing components such as temperature,
time, pressure, and cooling.
Striking Back
 When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing,
it must have control of the temperature and pressure.
 Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly during fusing
so that the resin is passed through the lower part of the fabric.
Striking Through
 When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing,
it must have control of the temperature and pressure.
 Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly during fusing
so that the resin is passed through the upper part of the fabric.
2.2.2.1. Garment Fusing Process
 Pre-wash the fabric (if necessary) and press it so the fabric is smooth and
flat.
 Place your fabric on the ironing board with the wrong side up.
 Find the adhesive side of the interfacing and place the fusible side of the
interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric.
 Applied required pressure, temperature and time
 Resin coating of interlining is melted by heat into the fabric under
pressure and time
 It becomes cool and hard both the fabric and interlining is attached.
2.2.2.2. Various Types of Resins used and their Wash Instructions
 Polyethylene – At different densities this is suitable for wash and wears
garments or for those which have to be dry-cleaned only.
 Polyamide – All polyamide resins produce full dry-cleanable and
washable bonds but there is a class of this resin which is dry-cleanable
only.
 Polyester – These resins have the same general properties as polyamides
but are generally a little cheaper.
 PVC – Used extensively for siliconised rain wear fabrics.
 Plasticized polyvinyl acetate – A multi-purpose resin which is both
washable and dry-cleanable.
 Plasticized polyvinyl acetate - Mainly used for leather but it is not drycleanable and has very limited wash ability.
2.2.2.3. Equipment used for Fusing/ Operation of Fusing machine
Continuous Fusing Press
 Firstly, interlining is placed between the two layers of fabrics.
 After that, apparel parts and interlining are placed on the revolving feed
sheet of the fusing machine.
 Here, the fusing machine is carried out in the entire fusing chamber.
 The necessary amount of heat is applied in the interlining infusing chamber.
 By using two pressure rollers, the required amount of pressure is also applied
here.
 The fusing chamber controls all the necessary fusing temperature and
pressure and the total fusing time is controlled by controlling the speed of
the feed sheet.
 In this stage, all the fused components are transferred to the delivery
revolving sheet.
 An operator is continuously feeding fused components here on the feeding
side of the fusing machine.
 Another operator continuously receiving the fused components in the
delivery side of the continuous fusing press m/c.
 The production of a continuous machine is high, and the quality of the fusing
is also good.
Flatbed Fusing Press
 In this machine, there are generally two beds; one bed is static called
„BUCK,‟ and the other is moveable called „HEAD.‟
 The interlining and garment component is positioned first and placed on the
BUCK. The top of the BUCK is covered by some soft beads made of fabrics,
blankets, or silicone rubbers.
 The surface buck and head are covered with fabrics having a coating of
PTFE. For this coating, the melted resins, dust, or spots can easily be
cleaned.
 The heating system may be electrical or steam. Application of temperature,
pressure, and time could be pre-set in this machine; hence fusing conditions
are adequately maintained.
 First, the part of the garment, which is for fusing, is placed flatly. Then the
resin surface of the interlining is placed carefully on this.
 Due to switch operation, the HEAD moves downward and comes in contact
with BUCK, and pressure is applied on the component (interlining).
 Temperature is applied through HEAD on the whole surface, and after a
specific time, the HEAD moves upward.
 After applying pressure and heat up to a specific time, the HEAD is
separated from the BUCK.
 Then for cooling of the fused parts, an air sucking fan in the buck is made
operative. For sucking the air within the buck, the fused parts are cooled
very swiftly.
2.3. Inspection of Fabric - 4 Point Fabric Inspection System

Normally 4 point system is used for fabric inspection, also called the
AAMA point grading system for determining fabric quality.
 The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the
size and significance of the defect.

Defect can be in either length or width direction.

Only major defects are considered.

No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.
 Total defect points per 100 yard square are calculated.

If fabric rolls contains less than 40 points per 100 yard square are
considered “first” quality.

If it is more than 40 points, it will be considered „seconds‟.
 Eg: Fabric roll = 120 yards length
Width = 48 inch
 Defective points in the fabric,
2 defects up to 3 inches – 2 x 1 = 2 points
5 defects up to 3” to 6” – 5 x 2 = 10 points
1 defect 6” < 9”
– 1 x 3 = 3 points
1 defect < 9”
– 1 x 4 = 4 points
-------------Total
= 19 points
--------------
Total defect points / 100 sq. yards
Total points in roll x 3600
= -------------------------------------------------Fabric width” x Total yard inspected
19 x 3600
= ----------------------------------------------------48 x 120
= 11.9 defect points / 100 sq. yard
So this roll is accepted.
Highlights

Normally applied for woven and knitted fabric inspection
2.4. Fabric Spreading
 Fabric spreading is a method where piles of unwinding large rolls of
fabric are spread a specific length and width wise according to the
garment marker measurement.
 Fabric spreading is an important task to maintain proper shape of fabric
before cutting of garments.
 Depending upon the fabric and cutting technology, up to 300 layers of
fabric may be cut at one time.
 The cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer.
 The maximum cutting width is the usable fabric width minus selvedge.
2.4.1. Various Methods of Spreading
Manual Method:
 It does not fulfil the basic requirements.
 Fabric is laid completely by hand.
 With the help of mechanical assistance as roll cutter.
 With the help of manually operated spread truck.
 This is the most extensively used for small production because of cheap
labor cost and availability of workers.
Mechanical Method:
a. Semi-automatic spreading machine:
 The cloth is unwound and spread through semi-automatic method. The
spreading head or carriage is moved to and fro and spread fabric over
the table. Movement along the table and fabric pulling can be controlled
by the buttons.
 Produced for less or no lycra fabrics like open knitted fabric roll, woven
fabric roll and tubular fabric roll or less lycra.
 Zigzag spreading or cutting during spreading when required.
 Counting system for every layer on screen.
 Advantages: Fast and economical, Proper selvedge alignment, Ease to
operate with electronic clutch
 Disadvantages: Fabric roll loading, cutting is still manual, No suitable for
larger scale industry, Small role size.
b. Fully automatic spreading machine:
 Easy spreading for all fabrics like open knitted fabric roll, woven fabric
roll and tubular fabric roll and full lycra.
 PLC*(Programmable Logic Controller) controlled full automatic
spreading machine.
 Easy usage with touch screen operator panel.
 Automatic loading/unloading device for fabric rolls.
 Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay.
 Automatic levelling device for edge alignment.
 Automatic cutting device at the end of a run.
 Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension.
 Automatic lay height sensor.
 Different speed options for forward and backward movements.
 Programmable lay length, ply height.
 Spreading speed up to 140 m/min.
 Operator platform.
2.4.2. Requirement of Spreading Process
 Alignment of fabric ply – during fabric spreading, all plies should be spread
according to the marker dimension. Here, the length and width of fabric must
be equal to marker length and width.
 Elimination of fabric defects/flaws - any faults identified on the incoming
fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided.
 Correct ply direction – in spreading time, all plies must be spread in the
same direction (such as all face up or all face down or face to face) and from
one end of the table.
 Correct ply tension – in spreading, all plies must be spread at uniform
tension (as little as possible). Otherwise, it creates various types of faults
during cutting the fabric.
 Fabric must be flat – all plies must be spread in flat from during fabric
spreading. Otherwise different types of faults such as wrinkle and crease are
produced during fabric cutting.
 Avoidance of distortion in spreading – to avoid fusing of fabric plies during
fabric cutting, polythene sheets are used under the bottom ply to resist the
friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife.
 Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting – synthetic spreading, anti-fusion
paper needed to be used between the plies to reduce the fusion between the
fabric and knives. Normally for every 30 – 40 plies needs one anti fusion
paper.
 Matching the checks and stripes – In case of check and stripe spreading,
checks or stripes should be matched.
2.4.3. Different Type of Fabric Spreads
Straight Lay:
In straight lay each ply of fabric is spread according to marker length, i.e.
all plies can have the same length. In that case one marker is used.
Stepped Lay:
Ply of fabric lay is not spread according to marker length, i.e. when the
plies are laid up in different lengths - a step can be formed. Different types of
marker are essential for different steps. Its use is very much less because of
fabric wastage‟s and lay making if difficult as well.
Straight lay
Each
ply
is
spread
Stepped lay
according Ply of fabric lay is not spread
to marker length.
according to marker length.
Mostly used
Rarely used
Fabric wastage is less.
Fabric wastage is more
Fabric spreading is simple.
Fabric spreading is difficult.
One marker is used.
Different types of marker are used.
2.4.4. Concepts of Splicing
 Splice marks are planned into continuous markers to avoid excessive fabric
wastage and incomplete pieces.
 Splice marks are points in marker where fabrics can be cut and the next piece
overlapped to maintain a continuous spread.
 Splice marks may be one inch or several inches depending on the overlap
needed to accommodate the pattern pieces in the area of the splice.

Thus there are two lines in a splice zone: One line shows how far the
previous piece of cloth must extend and one line shows where the next piece
of the cloth must begin, i.e. how much overlap is needed.
 There are two types of splicing methods
 Interlock splice: is pattern pieces are placed inside splicing marks.
 Straight line splice: Pattern pieces are placed away from splicing marks.
2.4.5. Different Types of Spreading Equipment
Spreading machines
Table
Normal Table
Vacuum Table
Conveyor Table
Pinned Table
Fabric Loaders
Fabric Weights / Clamps/ Pins
2.4.6. Marker Planning
 Marker planning is the process of determining the most efficient layout
of pattern pieces for a specific style. The process of arranging pattern
pieces in the most efficient manner requires time, skill and concentration.
 Marker making: After layering of a lay, pre-made paper patterns (or
ready markers made by plotter) are placed on the top layer of the lay. In
manual marker making, marking is done around each pattern shape using
marking chalk. This process is called marker making.
 Methods of marker making
a. Manual method
b. Computerized method
2.4.7. Advantages of CAD Marker
 Suitable for large-scale production.
 Marker efficiency is higher than manual method.
 Least amount of wastage of fabric.
 If required, printout of marker is possible anytime.
 Automatic grading.
 Less time and manpower required, so production is higher.
2.4.8. Marker Efficiency
 It is determined by fabric utilization, the percentage of the total fabric that is
actually used in garment parts.
 One means of determining fabric utilization is by comparing the total area of
the marker with the area of pattern pieces. The area not used by garment
parts is a waste.

It is expressed in percentage (%).
=
Total area of the pattern pieces
………………………………………… x 100
Actual area of the fabric placed
 The higher the marker efficiency, the lower will be the fabric wastage. So
increase in marker efficiency is very important.
2.4.9. Understanding of Pattern
 A pattern can be defined as a model of the various components of a garment.
It can be made of paper or plastic.
 Normally papers are used to make the patterns which cheaper than plastic. In
industries, they are using thick paper or card board.
 Patterns are very useful for pattern grading process. (Enlarging or reducing a
pattern of a particular size proportionately to some other size.)
 Patterns are helpful in making pattern layout. (Manner in which the patterns
are laid out on the fabric for cutting process is called as pattern layout.)
2.4.9.1. Methods if Laying Patterns
1. Layout for asymmetric design
The right and left sides are different from each other. So for these designs
to cut right and left sides separately from a single layer of fabric
2. Layout for striped designs
While using fabrics with bold lengthwise stripes, we have to place the
pattern in a position that one of the prominent lines falls along the centre of the
garment. By this the stripes are identical on the two sides of the fold. Cut the
striped fabric on the bias direction i.e. grain line of the pattern should be at an
angle of 45 to the warp direction. By this can create diagonal effect.
3. Layout for plaid designs
When are using bold designs such as plaids and crosswise stripes to
match the plaids and stripes so that they form continuous lines across the
openings. First s folds the fabrics in such a way that the stripes are match
exactly on the both of layer of fabric.
4. Layout for one way designs
When using one way designed fabrics to place all the pattern pieces in the
same and correct direction, otherwise, the print will look upside down on
sections which have been wrongly also for napped and pile fabrics, to follow the
same way.
2.4.10. Yardage Control in Cutting Room
An amount or length of fabric measured in yards
 1 yard = ---0.91-------meters
 1 meter = ----39.3-----inches
 1 inch = ------2.54---- cm
 1 cm = ------10------mm
 Cutting room is the feeding point to the factory has the massive impact
on all the further processes of garment manufacturing i.e. sewing,
finishing etc.
 Efficient and well planned operations in cutting room ensure smooth
flow of work to all further processes and can definitely lift up the
utilization of the available resources.
 Cutting room controls the utilization of fabric which is the biggest
contributor to the cost of any garment. Even small wastage or saving of
fabric will have a huge effect on the margins of the orders.
 Cutting begins the first operation of garment manufacturing lays the
foundation of quality of the garment to be made. Any imperfection in
cutting process can result in non-conformance of the quality standards
of all further processes.
2.4.11. Spreading Modes
The mode of fabric spreading is the way fabric plies are laid out for
cutting. Two fabric characteristics that determine the spreading mode are the
direction of fabric face and direction of fabric nap.
a. Direction of fabric nap:
 Nap either way (N/E/W)
 Nap one way (N/O/W)
 Nap up and down (N/U/D)
The surface directionality or the view of the fabric is called a nap. Or if
the fabric has surface fibres /short threads (like velvet, corduroy, etc), the
direction that they naturally lay is the nap of the fabric. A nap of the fabric is
created by its structure, a finish, or a directional print.
N/E/W with symmetric, non-directional fabrics, pattern pieces can be
placed on a marker with only consideration for grain line.
N/O/W with asymmetric, directional fabrics all the pattern pieces be
placed on a marker in only one direction.
N/U/D all patterns pieces of one size to be placed in one direction and
another size placed in opposite direction. eg. Corduroy.
b. Direction of Fabric Face:
The fabric face may be positioned in two ways: face-to-face (F/F) or with
all plies facing-one-way (F/O/W) face up or face down.
Face to Face: With this method of spreading the face is up on one ply and
down on the next ply as the spreader goes back and forth. Often
symmetric, non-directional fabrics are spread continuously which places
alternate plies face to face or back to back.
Face One Way: Face up or down is more time consuming and expensive
because must be cut at each end of the spread and the new end is
repositioned. When the face is up operator is able to monitor the face for
flaws. This method is particularly helpful when spreading prints. Pile
fabrics, corduroy and velvet are often spread face down.
2.4.11.1. Concept of Nap (NEW, NOW, NUD)
Nap/ One/ Way
 The Nap/ One/ Way (abbreviated N/O/W) are made with every pattern
placed with the “down” direction of the pattern in the same direction.
 This mode is necessary for fabrics that are asymmetric.
 All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the “down” direction, which is
usually toward the left edge.
 The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but least efficient of the
three nap directions for a marker.
Nap/ Either/ Way
 The Nap/ Either/ Way (abbreviated N/E/W) is made where there is no
restriction of which way the pattern are oriented.
 The patterns may be oriented either “down” or “up”, placed wherever they
fit best, only making sure that the patterns are on-grain.
 The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most efficient mode yielding the
highest fabric utilization.
Nap/ Up/& Down
 The Nap/ Up/& Down (abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient than the Nap/
One/ Way marker, but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way marker.
 In order to get a better fit between the patterns, alternating sizes of patterns
are oriented in opposite directions.
 This method is yields moderately good fabric utilization, and good quality.
2.4.12. CUTTING
Cutting quality is a prime important for quality in a finished product. The
quality of work leaving the cutting room is determined for
 Material or fabric defects in the cut fabric parts
 Shade differences between cut fabric pieces within a bundle.
2.4.12.1. Cutting Machines
Straight Knife
 This machine is called straight knife cutting machine because its cutter is
straight in shape. It is used for both woven and knit fabric.
 It consists of a base plate, vertical blade, motor, handle for moving assembly,
and a sharpening device.
 Two kinds of power are required to operate a straight knife.
 Motor power drives the reciprocating blade
 Operator power drives the knife through the lay
 Normally available blade heights vary from 10 cm to 33 cm and normally
available strokes vary from 2.5 to 4.5 cm.
 The greater the blade movement, the faster the blade cuts the fabric and more
easily the operator can move the machine.
 Operator efficiency is affected by the weight of the motor, shape of machine,
handle height, stroke, sharpness of blade and base plate rollers.
 Wavy edged knifes are used to reduce the heat generation and hence can be
used for cutting synthetic materials without fusing difficulties.
 The speed of the blades can also be adjusted by having variable speed
mechanism.
 It is small band with grinder/sharpening material on it and its main function
is to sharpen the blade.
 The straight knife is a common means of cutting lays in conventional cutting
rooms because it is versatile, portable, cheaper than a band knife, more
accurate on curves than a round knife and relatively reliable and easy to
maintain.
Advantages
 A large number of fabric lays can be cut by the machine due to high
length of knife and r.p.m. of the motor. So, productivity is high.
 Automatic grinding.
 Automatically lubrication.
 Comparatively cheap.
 Can be moved easily by wheel.
 Suitable for straight line and curve line.
 Can be cut high curve line than round knife.
 Fabric can be cut from any angle.
Upper handle,
Electrical cable,
Motor,
Side handle,
Knife sharpener,
Stand,
Presser foot,
Straight knife, and
Base plate with rollers
Round Knife (knife shape round but slightly octagonal)
 The elements of a round cutting machine are base plate, above which is
mounted an electric motor, a handle for cutter to direct the blade, and a
circular blade rotating so that the leading edge cuts downwards into the
fabric.
 Blade diameters vary from 6 cm to 20 cm.
 Round knives are not suitable for cutting curved lines in high lays because
the blade does not strike all the plies simultaneously at the same point as a
vertical blade does.
 Round knife is used only for straight lines or lower lays of relatively few
plies.
 It is naturally much more difficult for a circular blade to cut a tight curve,
such as an armhole.
 The machine has a built-in blade-sharpening system (Gliding grinder,
Normal grinder) that uses replaceable emery stones. It is necessary to stop
the cutting process during the sharpening.
Advantages
 Suitable for cutting single ply as well as multilayer (say 20-30 layers).
 Suitable for straight line rather than curve line cutting.
 Suitable for small scale cutting unit.
 Machine is small in size
 Easy to handle and operate.
 To cut the large and medium size components of simple shape from low
fabric spreads.
 Motor rpm normally 800 – 1600. With a same r.p.m. its efficiency is 10
times greater than the straight knife.
Band Knife
 A band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys powered by an
electric motor, with a continuously rotating steel blade mounted on them.
 One edge of the blade is sharpened. The blade is usually narrower than on
a straight knife. Knife moved in a rotary anti-clockwise.
 The machine has a built-in blade-sharpening system.
 The principle of operation is different from a straight knife, in that the
band knife passed through a slot in the cutting table, in a fixed position
and the section of lay towards the knife.

Fabric place on working surface with the help of floating air ball. Here
the cutting portion is stationary and the materials to be cut are moved.
 Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is
required than can be obtained with a straight knife.
 When small parts such as collars, cuffs and pockets are cut, a template of
metal or board in the shape of the pattern piece may be clamped to the
section of lay on top of the marking which is then drawn past the band
knife blade, cutting exactly along the hard edge.
Advantages
 Suitable for any type of line.
 It has higher productivity for limited products such as collar, cuff and
pocket.
 Automatic grinder grinds the knife instantly.
 Air blower helps to reduce the fabric weight which increases smooth
movement of fabric.
 Possible to cut 90° angle of the lay.
 Intensity of accident is low.
Die Cutter
 Instead of fast moving blades, die cutting involves pressing a rigid blade
through the lay of fabric.
 The die is a knife in the shape of pattern.
 Dies can be of strip steel, manufactured by bending the strip to the shape
required and welding the joint.
 These cannot be sharpened and must be replaced when worn.
 For die cutting, the spreader spreads the lay to the required no. of plies and
may mark the placement of pattern on top to guide the placement of dies; the
die press generally has a cutting arm supported by a single pillar at the back
of machine.
 The downward cutting stroke of the press should be so controlled that the
edge of the die just penetrates surface to the lowest ply are completely
separated.
 Die presses are of two types: Impact, which makes a single press on the die,
and more commonly, hytronic which exerts continuous pressure on the die.
 Die cutters are used to cut the small parts of larger garments such as collars
and cuffs.
 They provide a high standard accuracy of cutting but, because of the cost of
the dies, they are used only when large quantities of the same pattern shape
will be cut.
 Die cutting also offers much faster cutting with greater accuracy than knife
cutting for the same depth of cut.
 One important disadvantages of die cutting is its greater use of fabric.
Advantages
 Very much suitable for accurately cutting the small parts of a garments.
 Suitable for cutting in any shape or in any angle.
 Can be cut comparatively in a lesser time.
 This method is the best for the knitted fabrics.
Notchers:
 Notches are cut into the edges of the garment parts / enable to alignment
during sewing with other garment parts.
 Specialised notching equipment provides greater accuracy of notching with
consistent depth of notch at a consistent right angle to the edge.
 Both straight notches and V- notches are generally cut on garment parts.
 The hot notcher, having a heating element provides to prevent it fraying and
disappearing
 This cannot be used with thermoplastic fibers.
End Cutter
 It is another supplementary tool for cutting section. It mainly used to cut the
edge of the fabric ply an affixed with cutting table.
 It can be fixed to any type of cutting table by compressing bracket, cutting of
extensive stuff with large table options (up to 144″ wide / 3.66m wide), with
an extended handle option or a push/pull handle option for enormously
extended cuts needing more than one operator.
 It exists automatic knife grinding system, easy to operate, and low power
consumption etc. End cutters are available in manually-operated or
automatic configurations.
2.4.13. Different Types of Blades of Cutting Knives
 Straight knife: straight edge, wave edge, sews edge and serrated edge.
 Round knife: waved edge, toothed edge and circular edge.
 Band Knife: Knife edge
2.4.14. Reasons for Quality Problems in Cutting
The following defects that may arise in cutting,
Frayed edges – the amount of fraying depends on fabric construction and finish.
Improper cutting tools or dull knives cause excessive fraying in a pattern as the
section is cut.
Serrated edges – such a condition is caused by faulty knife edges such as burrs,
chips or dullness.
Ply to ply fusion – Adjacent plies are fused together. Fusion occurs due to heat
created by excessively high speed of cutting or by the friction of a dull knife. To
prevent fusion, check knife speed, keep knives sharp, place wax paper between
fabric plies and lubricate cutting table.
4. Single edge fusion – consists of a single ply whose cut yarn ends are fused to
form a hard brittle rim on the cut edge. Sometimes this is desirable to prevent
fraying. But may result in seams uncomfortable to the consumer...
5. Pattern precision – Misshape or distortion of the pattern as cut. To assure
precision in a pattern, check markers before cutting or allow time for the fabric
to relax.
6. Notches – Notch size refers to the depth of a notch. If the depth is too great,
the notch may show after a garment is sewing.
2.4.15. Method of Bundling & Ticketing
1. Position Marking: Where reference marks are needed away from the edge of
a garment part, for the position of pockets, darts and similar features, a hole is
often drilled through all the plies of fabric in the lay.
2. Shade Marking: The components cut from different shades of the same
colour do not get mixed up during the assembly process. Every component for
one garment is marked with a unique number, usually printed on a small ticket
which is stuck on the component.
3. Numbering: Between the cutting and sewing processes cut components may
be passed through other processes like printing and embroidery. There is a
maximum chance of mixing the components. If there is a layer number in each
component then at the time of stitching only correct components will be stitched
together.
2.4.16. Use of Bundling and Ticketing
Bundling:
As per the production line requirement, a certain number of pieces with
all components are tied together. This process is known as bundling. Each
bundle is marked with bundle number, style name, size number and quantity of
pieces in that bundle. At this stage, cuttings are ready to send to a production
line for stitching.
Ticketing:
Bundle tickets identify each bundle and in themselves play an important
role on production planning and control for sewing and finishing sections. The
tickets themselves can be bar-coded, and in both cases they can be computer
generated.
The purpose of bundle tickets is to:
 Monitor the progress of each specific garment,
 Ensure that all the correct parts are assembled together, and
 Compensate operators for their work on each garment.
E.g. such as;
a. Order no.: 0000
b. Bundle no.: 0000
c. Style no.: 0000
d. Qty in bundle: 12 pcs.
e. Size: M
f. Section: Sleeve
g. Date of issue: 00/00/00
Module – 03
SEWING ROOM
Machines – Types & Applications
1. Lock stitch / Plain / Regular sewing machine: this type of machine is used for
all types of garments.
2. Chain stitch machine: it is used for sew both woven and knitted garments.
3. Over lock machine (3-Thread): it is used for knit and woven fabric sewing.
Normally used in side seam, armhole, sleeve portion to prevent raw edges of
fabric.
4. Safety Stitch over lock machine (5-Thread): it is used for give safety sewing
in side seam, armhole, sleeve. Knit and woven both can be sewing by this
machine.
5. Flat lock machine: it is used for covering chain stitch. It is must for producing
knit wear.
6. Feed off the arm: it is used specially for the sleeve inseam joining and inside
seam joining of the pant.
7. Button hole machine: this machine used for make hole in the apparel.
8. Button sewing machine: this machine used for sew the button with the
apparel.
9. Bar lock machine: it is mainly used in pant for belt loop joining, pocket
corner and zipper fly.
Use of Attachments
 Attachments are work aids that can be added or removed from the
machine or work station according to the requirement of a particular
sewing operation.
 Attachments that manipulate materials are used to assist an operator in
guiding, positioning, folding and regulating the materials during the
sewing operation.
 Some commonly used attachments include
1. Binders – attach bias binding to straight or curved edges automatically
in one operation.
2. Edge folders – folders are used, as their name implies, in situations
where fabric must be folded prior to sewing.
3. Tuckers – enables uniform tuck to be repeated at the required distance
apart.
4. Corders
Binders:
 Single fold binder: it is used in conjunction with a compensating foot.
This folder is used for tapes which have a finished edge.
 Double fold binder: it is mounted on the throat plate, at right angles to the
sewing line. A special feed dog set and foot are parts of the unit which
folds in both edges of the tape as it is being bound and sewn.
Folders
 Lap seam folders: used on two or three needle machines, this attachment
folds the edges of the two parts being joined and interleaves them while
being sewn.
 Hem folders: makes a double rolled hem of the type used on scarves and
hand kerchiefs, and a folder to make a hem as narrow as this is easily
contained within space of a presser foot.
 Narrow hem folder
 Wider hem folder
Sewing - Stitch Types and Properties
Stitches are needed for joining the fabric, neatening the edges and decorating
the garments.
 Intra-looping
Passing through another loop of a thread formed by the same thread
 Inter-looping
Passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by the different
thread
 Interlacing
Passing of a thread over or around a different thread or loop
Single Needle Chain Stitch (Class 100)
 Intra-looping forms this class of stitches
 One or more needle threads are used to form stitches.
 The needle passes a thread through the fabric and a loop is prepared which is
connected with the previous loop made of the same needle.

Properties:
- Good elasticity
- Neat
- Easily unravelled
 Uses:
The common use of this stitch is in special sewing processes of button
sewing, button holing and blind hemming.
Stitch Class
No. of Thread
Typical Uses
Class 101
One Thread
Basting
Class 103
One Thread
Blind stitch for Hemming
Class 104
One Thread
Essentially decorative and is known
as saddle stitching.
Used for attaching buttons, snap
fasteners etc.
Hand stitch: (Class 200)
 This stitch class looks like a home-made hand stitch.
 It is crafted from a special type of needle and sewing machine which is
called a sewing machine pick stitch.
 Needle thread is passed from one side to another side in the fabric and makes
a sewn line.
 Properties:
- Medium or average elasticity
- Has neat appearance
- Difficult to unravel
 Uses:
Possible to start and finish at any point. Mostly used in the lapel of jacket,
coat and expensive clothes.
Stitch Class
No. of Thread
Typical Uses
Class 202
One Thread
Basting, Tacking
Class 205
One Thread
Top stitching
Lock stitch: (Class 300)
 The class of stitch is formed with two or more groups / sets of threads.
 One group as the needle thread and the other group as bobbin thread. Here,
one set of threads is interlaced with another set of threads and a bond is
made.
 Fine yarn is preferable for this kind of stitching.
 Type 301 stitches are the most common stitch in the 300 class.
 Properties:
- Does not ravel
- Flat, neat and good looking
- Similar appearance on the top and bottom
- Very limited extensibility
- Minimum use of threads for stich purpose
- Can be started and finished at any point of the fabric
 Uses:
 The most widely used stitch in the clothing (sewing, joining
different components during garments making, topstitching, etc.)
 It is very suitable for pleats and darts
 Can be secured at both ends of seam
 This stitch is also used in knitted sector for stitching pockets to
cardigan.
Stitch Class
No. of Thread
Typical Uses
Class 301
Two Threads
Seaming Multiple Plies
Class 304
Two Threads
Zigzag Stitch - used for
fastening lace, elastic
Multi thread chain stitch (Class 400)
 Stitches are created by two or more threads.
 One thread is called the needle thread, and another thread is called the looper
thread.
 The one thread is passed through the fabric and connected to another thread
formed by interlacing and inter-looping.
 Stitch type 401 is the most common in the 400 range.
 The front of the stitch looks like a lock stitch, and the back of the stitch looks
like a double thread.
 Sometimes this form of chain stitch is called a double locked stitch because
the needle thread is inter connected with two loops of the under thread.
 Properties:
- Construction of knitted fabric
- High elasticity if sufficient thread is introduced.
- Tends to eliminate or reduce puckering problems.
- Good lateral strength.
- This will not unravel rapidly.
 Uses:
The most widely used stitch in the clothing sector. Used for woven suiting
such as waist bands, neck bands and crotch seams of trousers.
Stitch Class
No. of Thread
Class 401
Two Threads
Typical Uses
Seaming Multiple Plies
Used for long stitching in jeans and
pants.
Class 401
Two Threads
Zigzag chain stitch – decorative
stitch
Class 406
Three Threads
Two needle Bottom Cover Stitch
Used to braid, elastic with a
sweater.
Over edge Stitch: (Class 500)
 This class of stitch is formed with one or more groups of threads. At least
one group of thread pass around the edge of the material.
 The most frequently used of these stitch types have one or two needle thread
and one or two looper threads.
 The stitch type shown in figure, is formed from one needle thread and two
looper threads (bottom and top).
 The loop formed by the penetrating needle thread is entered by the first
looper thread, which is turn is entered by second looper and they form a
narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric with threads
intersecting at the edge and preventing the fabric from fraying.
 Properties:
- Very high extensibility up to 300% when suitably adjusted.
- Good lateral strength.
- Upper and lower looper threads interloop to bind the trimmed edge of the
fabric.
 Uses:
This is most widely used stitch type in the hosiery sector and may be found
at any place in cut and sewn garments at which a trimmed and bound edge is
required. Such as sleeve setting, closing side seams on T-shirts and crotch
seaming of tights.
Stitch Class
No. of Thread
Typical Uses
Class 502
Two Threads
One Needle Over Edge Stitch for Serging
Class 504
Three Threads
Over Edge Stitch for Serging and Light Seaming
Flat Lock Stitch (Class 600)
 This class of stitch is formed three groups of thread. The two of the groups
cover the raw edges of both surfaces of the material.
 Loops of the first group of threads (needle thread) the passed through loops
of the third group already cast on the surface of material and then through
the material where they are inter-looped with loops of the second group of
threads on the underside of the material.
 The third and second groups are usually referred to as the top cover threads
and the bottom cover or looper threads respectively.
 Properties:
- Secures cut and folded – back raw edge neatly and securely top and
bottom cover
- Broad, flat and comfortable
- Strong but uses more sewing thread
- Will not unravel easily
- Very good extensibility
 Uses:
 This is most widely used stitch type in the knitted sectors and mainly
used for hems of t-shirts, skirts, trousers and underwear
 Decorative purpose on knitted leisure wear.
Various Techniques of Production in Sewing Room
1. Progressive Bundle System
As name I Production system.
The garments are gradually assembled as they move through successive subassembly and main assembly operations in bundle form.
In this system bundle of garments parts are moved in a sequence from one
sewing machine operator to the next.
The operators specialize in one major component and sew it from beginning
to end.
In the cutting section cut components of one style and in one size are
clubbed and bundled using ties.
Bundle sizes could vary from 2 to 100 pieces according to the requirement of
the production plant.
A ticket number will be allotted to each bundle which represents style, size,
shade of the garments and number of cut pieces etc.
The bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing section via trollies and
given to the operators scheduled to finished the operation and perform same
operation on all pieces in the bundle, retie the bundle and passed on to the
next operator.
There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the interprocess work between each operation.
It is used in shirt factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
Advantages
 It allows high productivity.
 Labors of all levels, ie, unskilled, skilled, semi-skilled labors are
involved in this system.
 Due to bundle system, less chance to lot mix-up, size and shade
variation of cut garment pieces.
 Tracking of bundles is possible, so identifying and solving the
problems becomes easy.
 An efficient production control system could be implemented.
Disadvantages
 Time-consuming due to assembling, moving, tying and untying of
bundles.
 Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may also cause
major bottlenecks within the system.
 Large inventory, extra handling and difficulty in controlling
inventory.
 Inventory cost will be high due to higher WIP in each.
 Balancing the line is difficult and this problem is solved by an
efficient supervisor.
2. Unit Production System
A Unit Production System is a type of layout that uses an overhead
transporter system to move garment components from work station to work
station for assembly.
In UPS, there are hangers. One hanger has multiple clips containing all parts
of the single garment.
All the parts for a single garment are moved forward through the production
line by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor.
The product carrier with the pieces will be routed through the different
operation steps.
Hanging carrier can be moved manually by the operator using button after
completion of single operation or by computerized system that move the
conveyor after a specific fed throughput time.
Completed the product arrives to an unloading station. The empty product
carrier returns to the loading station.
Production operations are completed with / without removing the parts from
the carrier.
Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling,
tying and untying, and manually moving garment parts.
Advantages
 Low WIP.
 Defects can be less.
 Improves lead time.
 Bundle handling completely eliminated.
 Output is automatically recorded.
 Increased Productivity.
 Indirect labor costs are reduced
 Improved quality.
Disadvantages
 Proper planning is required to be effective.
 Highly expensive-buying equipment and cost of installing.
 Specialized training for the system.
3. Modular Production System
Usually U-shaped layout with more workplaces than operators.
This system focuses on a team method of assembly. Modular production
system involves a group of 4-17 people. The members of a team are
responsible for either the entire garment of the assembly process.
The number of teams in a plant varies with the need of the industry, size of
the industry and product line in garments.
In this system, operators help each other to finish the garment quickly and
the team is fully responsible for the production and quality.
Required multi skilled workers and a small set of machines to produce a
finished garment.
Each operator performs approximately 2-4 operations, depending on the
product.
WIP is less and productivity is high in this production system.
The operators stand /sit at their stations and rotate in different sewing
machines to complete the operations.
Time spent per garment is also little; e.g. T-shirt 3 mints, Pull-on pants 6
mints., unstructured jacket 25 mints., lined blazer 40 mints., tailored coat
120 mints.
Advantages
 MPS leads to cost savings.
 The system is highly flexible with style changes and permits better
line balancing.
 Enables fast throughput time, lower WIP, and small batch size can be
achieved.
 High Productivity.
 Required less floor space.
 Improved quality of the product.
 Operators can do more than one operation.
Disadvantages
 High capital investment is needed in initial training workers to deal
with several tasks at one station.
 This system requires a higher degree of communication and
cooperation among operators, mechanics, and supervisors.
 Operators cannot develop the rhythm.
 No harmony between team members can cause problems, thus loss in
production.
 Depend on the team for whole production.
4. Individual System/ Make Through
This is essentially the traditional method of production whereby one operator
assembles the entire garment.
In men's bespoke wear, it is not uncommon for a tailor to perform nearly
every operation required to make the garment, including machining, hand
work and pressing.
Of necessity, the labour required by this system must be highly skilled and
versatile, a combination which is becoming exceedingly rare and
increasingly expensive.
This type of system is effective when a very large variety of garments have
to be produced in extremely small quantities.
A typical application would be in the sewing room of a boutique, which
produces its own merchandise.
5. Whole Garment Production System
There are two types of Whole Garment Production Systems:
(1) Complete whole garment and
(2) Departmental whole garment.
a. Complete whole garment system
 In the whole garment system one individual makes the entire garment
from cutting the cloth to sewing and pressing the garment.
 The garment is ready for dispatch once the operator completes the final
operation.
 This type of system is used in a few places, which are engaged in customwholesale.
 They are normally high priced and exclusively made for a particular
customer.
 They are limited in number and distribution; normally about 10-20
garments are made.
b. Departmental whole garment system
 The departmental whole garment system is also used by custom
wholesale manufacturers as well as high price or better dress
manufacturers.
 In the departmental whole garment system one individual does all the
work with the equipment allocated to a department.
 For example, one person does all the cutting work in cutting department,
second person does all the sewing work in sewing department, and the
third person does the pressing and packing work.
 The workers in this system may use more than one equipment to
complete their respective job.
Advantages (whole garment production system)
 This system is more effective when a very large variety of garments have
to be produced in extremely small quantities.
 In Individual piece rate system the operators will do with full
involvement: To finish more pieces, to earn more money.
 Operator will be specialized in his own working area.
 As the pay depends upon the complication of the operation, the operator
will try to finish the complicated operation also without any difficulties.
 The Work in Progress (WIP) is reduced, at a time one cut garment to one
operator and so the amount as inventory is reduced.
Disadvantages (whole garment production system)
 Highly skilled laborers are used, so the cost of labor is high.
 The operator is more concerned on the number of pieces finished rather
than the quality of work.
 Productivity is less due to lack of specialization.
 For long run/bulk quantity of same style is not effective in this system.
Module – IV
OPERATION BREAKDOWN FOR GARMENTS: T-SHIRT/SHIRT,
DRESS, TROUSER/JEANS
T-Shirt
SL No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
Operation
Label Ready (cut and arrange)
Sleeve hem
Shoulder joint
Neck rib ready & attach
Neck T/S
SEERI Binding
SEERI Binding Cut & Check
Sleeve attach
Sew under arm & side seams with care label
Sleeve peak
Bottom pcs. Turn
Bottom hem
Main label attach
Inline checking
Jeans
SL No.
1
Operation
Back Yoke Join
2
Back Yoke Top Stitch
3
Back Raise Join
4
Back Raise Top Stitch
5
Back Pocket Cut
6
Back Pocket Mouth Rolling
7
Back Pocket Stitch
8
Back Pocket Ironing
9
Back Pocket Join With Back Part
10
Front Rise
11
Front Rise Top Stitch
12
Fly Pieces Stitch
13
Zipper Stitch With Fly Piece
14
Fly Piece Back Attaching
15
Fly Piece Front Attaching
16
Front Pocket Mouth Rolling With Piping
17
Front Pocket Horizontal And Vertical Tack
18
Front Pocket Bag Stitch And Inside Out
19
Front Pocket Bag Top Stitch
20
Front And Back Part Matching
21
Inseam Join
22
Inseam Top Stitch
23
Side Seam Join
24
Safety Stitch
25
Side Cord Stitch
26
Care Label Attaching
27
Loop Measure, Cut And Attach
28
Waistband Mark
29
Waistband Match
30
Waistband Join
31
Waistband Mouth Cut
32
Waistband Mouth Close Inside
33
Loop Tack Down
34
Loop Tack Top
35
Turn Body And Thread Cut
36
Bottom Hem Join
37
Loop Stitch
38
Back Pocket Tack
39
Front Pocket Tack
40
Eyelet Hole Creating
41
Flap Mark
42
Revert Attaching
43
Waist Hole Creating
44
Waist Button Attach
45
Final Thread Cut
Plain Kameez (Dress)
1. Finish the neckline with facing
2. Stitch both the shoulders together with right sides facing each other’s.
3. Finish the sleeve hem.
4. Then stitch the sleeves to the armhole.
5. Then stitch front and back side seam together leaving slit opening on both
sides, (start stitching from the end of sleeves).
6. Fold and stitch the slit open from bottom to slit mark.
7. Place the needle on fabric and lift the pressure foot, turn the fabric stitch on
seam allowances. Then turn and fold the other side of the slit open and
stitch it.
8. Trim the edges of side seam with pinking scissors or give over lock stitch.
9. Finish the slit and fold the bottom by double row of stitches for neat finish.
Plain Salwar (Dress)
1. Fold and finish the bottom hem of each leg.
2. Join the Centre front and center back of crotch line and the waist band
3. Then finish the waist hem by double fold the fabric for casing at the top
of the waist band.
4. Adjust the width of the leg piece with waist band piece by making pleats
in the leg piece. Start stitching pleats near the crotch seam by leaving 1
½” to 2” away from the crotch seam.
5. Similarly make pleats for the other side.
6. Then join the leg pieces to the waist band.
7. Join the inside leg seams starting from the bottom of the leg.
8. Prepare a tying string of ½” to 3/4” width from the balance material.
9. Length of string must be at least 6” longer than waist band width.
10.Finally insert the cloth tape to the waist hem and press the garment.
Finishing Room
Pressing
 Pressing is the application of heat (to soften and thus stabilize the
garment shape), moisture (to aid in fiber swelling and thus shape
stabilization) and pressure (crease retention and permanency) maintaining
actual time to give shape, remove unwanted crease, crease on fabrics,
garments, or garment parts.
 Pressing is done for making the fabric smooth. It is an important finishing
process in apparel industry.
 Pressing or ironing is done during assembly or as a final finishing
process.
Processes involved - Under Pressing, Top Pressing
Under Pressing:
For sewing easily and beautifully, it must need to give minimum pressing
to some parts of garments before sewing is called under pressing.
Specially, under pressing is done to most of the garments industries for
making coat, jacket, and trouser and so on. They also require final
pressing.
Final Pressing:
This is done after making of garments. This is generally done in shirt,
skirt and so on. Pressing or ironing is done here to increase the beauty of
garments and to impart a flat appearance to the clothing. Special type of
pressing machine is used for final pressing.
Equipment: Steam Press, Steam Tunnel, Dolly Press
Steam Press
 The lower surface or bed buck is in fixed horizontal position to support
the fabric or garment during pressing.
 The head is attached to the lower buck but is mobile. The head moves
down when activated by the operator to cover the material as it rests on
the bed buck.
 Steam is released and drawn through the garment by the vacuum system.
 When head is released it returns to an open position. Buck padding serves
to distribute the steam evenly reduces the impact of steam on fabric and
provides a soft resilient surface for the fabric.
 The ironing bed is made by spreading the layers of fabrics on the buck
which is placed in a frame.
 There is provided air suction and steam flow system through the buck.
 Buck presses are mostly used for slacks, skirts and jackets.
 Buck pressing can be used for in process pressing and final pressing.
 Steps
Fabric is placed on the buck
⇓
The HEAD is locked to press the garment
⇓
Further steam may be applied from HEAD
⇓
Head is released
⇓
Vacuum is applied to cool and dry the garment
Tunnel Finisher
 In this process garments are pressed without any pressure.
 Garments are hung on hanger and pushed into a tanner containing
separate chamber through a running rain.
 Garments are heated on first chamber and unexpected crease is removed
from fabric by relaxation and gravitational force.
 Garments are dried by hot air in the 2nd chamber.
 This type of pressing is used for pressing T-shirts and knitted wears
which can carry up to 30 articles at a time through the finishing process.
 Garment forms can be adjusted for different styling and sizes and the
microprocessor controls the processing time, steaming time and the
quantity and steam and air temperature.
 Up to 24 individual pressing programs can be stored.
Foam Finishing (Dolly Press)
 This type of garments finishing machine is known as puffer or dolly
press. Foam pressing equipment is used for the final pressing in garment
production.
 The dolly press contains a frame which contains form and the steam and
compressed air are flowed by pipe through the form.
 The pressing form is generally made by heavy canvas fabric.
 There is no sleeve and the usable form size is made according to the size
of body of garments.
 Steam is forced from the inside of the foam through the garment while
the foam expands to fill all the space inside the garment. This gives the
garment final shape.
 Steam and air are supplied for a predetermined time by using a timer.
 Normally 8 seconds for steam supply and next 8 seconds for hot air
supply.
 This type pressing is used for pressing T-shirts, jeans, pants, blouses, and
sportswear and so on.
Packing
 Packaging means wrapping, compressing, filling or creating of goods for
the purpose of protection of goods and their convenient handling.
 After final inspection & garments folding, the garments are poly-packed
dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the carton.
 The carton is marked with important information in printed form which is
seen from outside the carton easily.
Packing Steps
Types of Folding
 Stand up pack with packing materials like tissue paper, back support,
pins or clips, inner collar patty, outer patty: Shirt
 Flat pack without packing materials: Sport wear/Shirt/Trouser. Mostly
used for ladies garments
 Hanger pack: Blazer, Coats, Pants (packing material: only polybag)
 Dead man pack: Shirts. Here, the sleeves are folded in front of the pack
and pinned with each other. Next, the garments are folded in the center.
As it resembles the appearance of a dead body, it is called a ‘dead man
pack’. It is a simple packing method using only pins or clips and polybags.
Methods of Packing
Packing garment with polybag
 Traditionally garments are packed into poly bags before placing them into
cartons box. Garments may be packed in the poly bags based on buyer
 Single piece packing: a single garment is packed into the polybag.
 Blister packing: In blister packing, more than one garments are packed into
a polybag in a size and color ratio. Later those poly bags are packed into a
carton box.
Packing garment without polybag
 The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the
carton boxes without putting them in the polybag.
Types of Carton Packing
After garment packaging, the process of cartooning is carried out based
on the size of the apparel and its color.
1. Solid color solid size pack
2. Solid color assorted size pack:
3. Assorted color solid size pack
4. Assorted color assorted size pack
Carton pack may be varying according to the buyer’s requirement. Carton
pack may be as –
 12 pcs / carton
 24 pcs / carton
 36 pcs / pack
MODULE - V
Quality Control & Costing
5.0. Fabric to Warehouse
Receiving fabrics from supplier
↓
Receiving invoice & packing list and mill dye lot
↓
Inside container condition checking (temp & humidity)
↓
Physical verification against invoice & packing list
↓
Keeping roll in fabrics warehouse
a. Receiving
 Garment factories receive fabric from overseas textile manufacturers in
large bolts with card board or plastic centre tubes or in plies or bags.
 The fabric typically arrives in steel commercial shipping containers and
unloaded with forklift.
 Garment factory often have a warehouse to stores fabric between arrival
and manufacturing.
b. Warehousing
A warehouse is a commercial building for storage of goods. They are
usually large plain buildings in industrial parts of towns. Two functions namely,
 Movement
 Storage of goods
5.1. Definition of Quality
It means different things to different people. From different people,
 The best money can buy
 Meeting a specification or conformance to specifications
 Craftsmanship
 Degree of excellence
User based quality mean meeting customer requirements and expectations all
the time.
5.1.1. Dimensions of quality:
The quality of a product or service is assessed based on some parameters
which are termed as the dimension of quality.
 Performance
 Durability
 Aesthetics
 Features
 Serviceability
 Conformance
 Reliability
 Perceived quality
5.2. Importance of Testing in Quality
Testing is the way of control or the process to check or verify the nature
of some items. It is the process or procedure to determine the quality of a
product. Testing is governed by 5M: Man, Machine, Material, Method and
Measurement.
 Evaluation of the properties of different forms: fibers, yarns & fabrics.
 To ensure the product quality
 To control the manufacturing process
 For customer satisfaction and retention
 Good reputation (brand image) among consumers
Reasons for textile testing
 Checking the quality, suitability of raw material and selection of material.
 Monitoring of production
 Assessment of final product, whether the quality is acceptable or not
 Investigation of faulty material
 Product development and research.
 Specification testing
5.3. Inspection and Types
It is the visual examination of raw materials, partially finished component
of garment and completely finished garments in relation to some standards
specification.
Types

Raw material inspection (fabric, trims and accessories)

In process inspection (during garment process)

Final inspection (final garment)
5.4. Stages of QC in Apparel Manufacturing Company
5.4.1. Quality control in pre-production
Pre-production apparel quality control is conducted before the production
starts. It includes checking if the fabric meets the required standards for:
a) Fabric quality control through assessing
 Comfort properties
 Colorfastness properties
 Durability properties
 GSM, carded/combed yarn,composition, EPI, PPI, etc.
b) Other trimmings and accessories such as:
 Closure
 Zipper, Button, Hooks, Snap fasteners, Drawstrings, etc.
 Interlinings/interfacing
 Sewing threads
 Elastic waistband
 Other design elements such as: Beads, Sequins, Braids etc.
5.4.2. Quality control in production/online/in-process
The inspection, which is carried out before assembling all the parts of a
garment is known as in-process inspection.
This inspection during production is integral to ensuring that garments
are produced to meet customer expectations and specifications.
These production garment inspections are typically done when around
15-20% of the merchandise has been completed, and they can be done in
different ways, including:
 QC in Spreading
 QC in cutting
 QC in assembling parts
 QC in sewing
 QC in finishing
5.4.3. Quality control in post-production/Final inspection
Quality control of finished garments is an inspection before the
merchandise is shipped to the customer and is done when at least 80% of the
order has been packed for shipping. This process helps to detect any defects and
reduces the risk of complaints from customers.
Technical parameters such as:
 Defects in yarn, fabrics.
 Defects in trims and accessories.
 Stitching defects.
 Seam defects etc.
 Overall appearance.
 Sizing and fit.
5.5. Purpose of Pilot, Mid and Final Inspections
Pilot run inspection
 Purpose of pilot run is to check production and qualityrequirement.
 Pilot run pieces are thoroughly checked by factory quality department.
 Based on the pilot run result bulk production is planned.
 Through pilot run process, production team learns about the critical
operations in the styles, identify potential bottleneck operations.
 Based on their learning in pilot production run they prepare themselves
for bulk production.
 Just after pilot run factory loads bulk production.
Mid inspection
 The main purpose is to stop defect generation at source. Early detective
of defective garment can save time and money for repair work.
 If a defect is not detected when it made and following processes are done
on that defective piece may become more critical.
 This makes more difficult to open the seam again the repair the garment.
Thus repair cost would be high.
 To improve productivity
 Early feedback to cutting department: If garments are checked inline,
defects related to cutting can be detected at the initial 2 to 3 operations.
 Sewing floor can inform the cutting department about the cutting issues if
it exists. Based on the feedback from the sewing line cutting department
take action quickly and cut following lays accordingly.
 Reduce the workload of the end-of-line checker.
Final inspection
 The purpose of a final inspection is to ensure that the products meet the
specifications and safety standards that were agreed upon by the buyer and
seller.
 This is the last quality control check that is done before a product is shipped
out.
 It allows catching any quality control issues that may have been missed
earlier in the manufacturing process.
 A final inspection is usually done on products that are mass-produced.
 All final inspection Inspectors had been provided complete guidelines,
standards, and specifications including packaging and assortment
instructions by the buyer.
5.6. Quality Manual
A quality manual is a document that defines the quality management
system of an organization and demonstrates how the quality
management system should function.
Manual includes information of quality procedures of various
departments, how to measure guide, compliance requirement, code of
contacts, auditprocedures, inspection system with format.
QM main contents
 Quality policy and objectives
 Quality management system
 Management responsibility
 Resource management
 Product realization
 Measurement, analysis and improvement
5.7. Apparel Manufacturer’s Role in Producing Quality Product
 Develop a strong quality management system. This should include
standard operating procedures for all aspects of the manufacturing
process, from design to delivery.
 Train your employees thoroughly on the quality management system, and
make sure they follow it correctly.
 Use accurate and consistent measurements when creating your patterns
and samples.
 Inspect each garment before it goes out the door, and reject any that don‟t
meet your standards.
 Keep track of customer feedback, and use it to continually improve your
product quality.
 Develop accurate measurements for each size and style of garment.
 Create a detailed sewing pattern for each style of garment.
 Use quality fabrics and trimming materials.
 Inspect garments for defects before shipping them out.
 Train your staff on the importance of quality and control in the
manufacturing process.
5.8. AQL
 Generally AQL method is used for final inspection.
 It is referred to as the “Acceptable Quality Level” and is defined as the
percentage of defective pieces which are tolerated/accepted by the buyer
from the manufacturer.
 Garment industry identifies major acceptable quality level standards,
as indicated below:

Acceptable Quality Level 2.5%

Acceptable Quality Level 4%

Acceptable Quality Level 6.5%

Acceptable Quality Level 10%
 Lot or batch size: This means total how many pieces inspector is going to
check or inspect.
 Sample size code letter: This code is indicative a range of batch size.
Sample size: It means that how many pieces will be picked up for
inspection from the total offered pieces (Batch).
 Ac (Accepted): The number in this column denotes that if the inspector
not finds up to that many defective pieces the shipment will be accepted
by buyer.
 Re (Rejected): On the other hand number in this column denotes that if
the inspector finds that much defective pieces or more than the listed
number, the shipment will be rejected by buyer.
 An AQL of 2.5 % and a lot size of 1200 garments and the sample size
is 80 garments.
 If the number of defective garments found are 5 the total lot is
"Acceptable" suppose if the defective garments found is 6, the total lot
is "Reject/ Re-Check".
Costing
5.9. Some Definitions
 Cost is typically the expense incurred for making a product or service
that issold by a company.
 Costing Process of estimating the total resource investment required to
merchandise, produce and market a product.


5.10. Main Factors that Affect Costing – Garment
Fabric
 Fabric is generally the most significant factor in the costing of a garment.
 The parameters that affect the fabric cost:
 UOM: Unit of Measurement (UOM). The UOM for woven fabric is
normally in meters or yard.
 MOQ: Fabric Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ) is smallest quantity
of a product that a fabric manufacturer can supply.
 Order quantity: The cost of fabric may depend on the order quantity.
 Incoterm used: While importing the fabric from another country
merchandiser needs to deal with the supplier for delivery of the fabric
on the basis of incoterms like EXW, FOB, CIF, DDP etc. based on
which it will be decided who covers the cost of transportation and
risk.
Trims

Apart from main fabric garment construction include other materials like
trims, buttons, thread, zippers, elastics, etc. Their quality and quantity
affects the cost of the garment.
Labels and packaging
 The cost of labels depends on size and material is choosing, in mass
production the amount of labels ordered plays a significant role too.
 The cost of poly bags and cartons used for shipping is highly dependent
on thickness, dimension and raw material used.
 Hand tags or price tags are used as packing material, the cost of hand tags
are dependent upon material used, printing on it, and MOQ.
Cost of making
 The cost of making is based on the total cost per hour multiplied by the
number of hours it takes to make the style and divided by the number of
units produced if the making is done by a contractor. The contractor adds
profit on to this amount.
Shipping and logistics cost
 Whether sourcing in own country or abroad, the transport logistics of
goods from the factory to warehouse imply additional costs. These are
usually known as freight and shipping.
Profit of the organization
 This is basically what earn when sell the garment. This amount includes
own pay, helps the business stay afloat and invest into developing new
styles.
5.11. Garment Costing of Apparel
Knitted garment costing basic t-shirt
Men’s basic T-shirt - 100% cotton, 140 GSM S/J and dyed material
Measurements in cm
½ Chest
60 cm
All. 6
Full length
70 cm
All. 6
Sleeve length
24 cm
All. 6
 For body length and sleeve length, approximate sewing allowance (12cm)
should be needed at body hem, shoulder joint, sleeve hem, and armhole
joint.
 ½ Chest widths – 60 cm
 For chest width, an approximate sewing allowance (6cm) should be
needed at both side seams.
Calculate the fabric consumption
I. Fabric consumption in kgs.
(BL + SL + allowance) x (1/2 Chest + allowance) x 2 x GSM
=
100 x 100 x 1000
1 Meter = 100 cm (100 = All measurement are in cm. 100 cm makes 1 meter)
1 Kg = 1000 gram (1000 = convert it to kg. Thus 1000 has inputted as a unit)
Multiply 2 = each item has two part of a T-shirt
(70 + 24 + 12) x (60 + 6) x 2 x 140
=
10000000
(106) x (66) x 2 x 140
=
10000000
1869840
= --------------------- = 0.1959 kg.
1000000
Fabric wastage percentage to be added in calculating fabric consumption, allow
fabric Wastage 5% (depends on factory practice, type of fabric & type of
garment)
= 0.0098 (0.196 x 0.05)
= 0.196 + 0.0098
= 0.206 kg
So, grey fabrics needed per garment are 0.206 kg.
As yarn price per kg is Rs.150/- then, grey fabric cost per garment is (0.206 kg
× 150) = Rs. 30.9
II. Actual fabric cost per kg.
Total grey fabric cost
Rs. 30.9
Knitting cost per kg
Rs. 10.00
Dyeing cost per kg
Rs. 35.00
Compacting charge per kg
Rs. 5.00
Total
Rs.80.9
Actual fabric cost per kg
Rs.80.9
III. Actual fabric cost per garment
= Actual fabric cost per kg x Fabric consumption in kg.
= 80.9 X 0.206
= Rs. 16.67
IV. Garment costing
Fabric cost per garment
Rs. 16.67
CMT charges
Rs. 11.00
Trims per pcs
Rs. 0.85
Accessories per pcs.
Rs. 1.35
Sub total
Rs. 29.87 (16.67 + 11 + 0.85 + 1.35)
Rejection of garment 3%
Rs. 0.90 (= 29.87 x 0.03)
Therefore, Cost of garment
Rs. 30.77 (29.87 + 0.90)
Local transport
Rs. 1.00
Sub total
Rs. 31.77
Profit 15%
Rs. 4.77 (= 31.77 x 0.15)
Sub total
Rs. 36.64 (31.77 + 4.77)
Commission / pc
Rs. 2.00
Total
Rs. 38.64
Garment price in Rs.
Rs. 38.64
1 US Dollar
Rs. 76.7
Rs into $
38.64 / 76.7
Garment price in US dollar
$ 0.48
FOB – (Free on Board) who will bear the cost of transportation & risk) – the
seller is responsible for the product only until it is loaded on board a shipping a
vessel, at which point the buyer is responsible. Buyer must pay the freight
transportation charges when the buyer receives the goods.
5.12. CMT Calculation – Cutting, Making And Trimming of Apparel
Total available capacity/month (in minute) = 26 working days*8 hours/day*60
= 12,480 minutes
Labor cost/minute = (Monthly salary of an operators/Total minutes available
inthe month) at 100% efficiency
= 6000 / 12480
= 0.480 Rs.
Sewing cost = (SAM of garment*Minute cost of labor)/Line efficiency (%)
= 15*0.480/50
= 14.4
Cutting cost = (SAM of cutting*Minute cost of labor)/cutting efficiency (%)
= 7*0.480/50
= 6.72
Trimming cost is considered as 3 as it depends upon how many operators
arethere for trimming.
Production cost of garment (CMT) = sewing cost+ cutting cost + trimming cost
= 14.4 + 6.72 + 3
= Rs. 24.12
5.13. Elements of Apparel Costing
a. Direct material cost
 Direct material is that material which can be easily identified and related
with specific product, job, and process. Eg: Cloth for making garments.
 The direct material cost is approximately 45-60% of the apparel’s cost,
depending on the types of the apparel.
 An example of direct material cost in apparel manufacturing may
include yarn, fabric, zippers, buttons, fabric fillings, hooks, labels, etc.
b. Direct labor cost
 Labor is the main factor of production. For conversion of raw material
into finished goods, human resource is needed, and such human resource
is termed as labor.
 Direct labor is that labor which can be easily identified and related with
specific product, job, process, and activity.
 Direct labor is also known as process labor, productive labor, operating
labor, direct wages, manufacturing wages, etc.
 Thus, direct labor cost means the wages given to the workers who are
directly involved in manufacturing of the apparels and the cost that can be
traced per apparel.
c. Direct expenses
 All cost incurred in the production of finished goods other than material
cost and labor cost are termed as expenses.
 These are expenses which are directly, easily, and wholly allocated to
specific cost center or cost units.
 An example would be a company purchases any license to run a machine
or process or any royalty paid by the company to another company as a
part of business.
 Also, any small contract work involved, such as embroidery, special
finish to an apparel, etc., is treated as direct expense.
d. Indirect cost or overhead
 Another element of cost is indirect cost, the cost that cannot be traced to
apparel in an economic way.

Overhead covers all other cost not associated with direct material and
labor cost. The overhead contributes around 30% to the total cost of the
apparel.
 Other overhead costs may include machinery depreciation, factory
insurance, electricity, overtime and the support department.
 The support departments are not directly involved in production but assist
in production.
5.14. Labor Costing
 Step 1: Determine the gross wages
 Gross wage = annual working hours x gross hourly wage
 Step 2: Determine the actual working hours
 Actual working hours = annual working hours – hours not
working
 Step 3: Factor in all other expenses
 Step 4: Determine the total annual labor cost
 Total annual labor cost = Gross wage + other annual costs
 Step 5: Labor Cost Percentage = (total annual labor cost / gross sales)
x 100
5.15. Basic Calculation of Manufacturing Costs
 Direct material
Direct materials are the costs associated with any raw materials that have
been directly used in production. The result is the cost of direct materials
incurred during the period.
 Total Direct Materials Costs = Beginning Inventory + Added
Purchases – Ending Inventory
 Direct labor
Compile the cost of all direct manufacturing labor incurred during the
period, including the cost of related payroll taxes and employee benefits. The
result is the cost of direct labor.
 Direct labor cost per unit = direct labor hourly rate x time for
producing one unit
 Direct labor hourly rate = labor cost ÷ number of hours worked
 Time for producing one unit = total no. of products ÷ total no. of
direct labor hours
 Manufacturing Overhead
Aggregate the cost of all factories overhead incurred during the period.
This includes such costs as production salaries, facility rent, repairs and
maintenance, and equipment depreciation.
 Manufacturing overhead/unit = total overhead ÷ total units
produced in a given period
 Monthly manufacturing overhead rate = monthly overhead costs ÷
monthly sales x 100
Highlights:
 The cost of grey fabric can be calculated by,
= Yarn cost + fabric manufacturing cost (knitting or woven charge)
 Total cost/apparel
= Fabric cost/apparel + Cutting, Making and Trimming (CMT)/apparel +
Trims or accessories/apparel + Shipment charge
 Woven Fabric Consumption Formula
University Questions
1. What is the significance of ply alignment during spreading process
and how can we maintain that? (2 Marks)
 During fabric spreading, all plies should be spread according to the marker
dimension. Here, the length and width of fabric must be equal to marker
length and width.
 Every ply should comprise the length and width of the marker plan but
should have minimum extra outside those measurements. If alignment of
fabric plies is not appropriate then parts of some pattern pieces would be
missing after cutting.
2. Explain the significance of TOP sample (2 Marks)
 TOP is abbreviated as Top of Production.
 Factory starts bulk production after the PP sample approval.
 After the bulk production start, few garments are picked randomly from the
production output of the first production run for quality checking by the
buyers QA.
 The TOP sample has great importance in achieving certification of the whole
order. If the TOP sample failed to approve its required quality then the whole
order will be resumed.
3. Define and explain the use of sealer sample (4 Marks)
 A sealed sample means approved garment construction, approved trims
attached to the garment. 
 A sample with a red tag is an identification of a sample that buyer attach
coloured tags to approved samples and send back to the suppliers. 
 A buyer uses different colour tags for the different sample type, Red Tag is
used for PP samples (Pre-Production sample). Once attached these tags
cannot be removed easily from the sample garment.
 Secondly, a Red Tag helps merchandisers, production team and quality
personnel to identify easily the correct sealed sample for production from
other samples of the same style. 

 If there is any confusion related to garment construction at the time of
production, the production department just refers to the Red tag sealed
sample.
 At the time of quality inspection, buyer representative refers to the sealed
sample and buyers comments on that sample. Shipment inspection is done
based on the sealed sample.
4. Fusing machine diagram (4 Marks)
(i) Conveyor Fusing Press diagram
(ii) Flat Bed Press
Vertical action
Scissor action
5. Parts of zipper (4 Marks)
�
Teeth – This is the central part of a zipper- The track of the zipper which can
be of plastic or metal. The zipper is opened or closed by using these teeth.
�
Tape – This is the fabric on either side of the zipper teeth. It is usually made
of polyester. This is stitched to the fabric to attach the zipper
�
Pull and slider – This is the metal/plastic piece which opens and closes the
zipper teeth by moving along the teeth track. The pull is used to move the
slider.
�
Stopper – this is the metal thing at the edge of the zipper teeth which stops
the zipper teeth from separating fully. There are stoppers on top of the teeth
and at the bottom.
6. What is the significance of ply tension during spreading process
and how can we maintain that? (2 Marks)
 It is important for the spreading to have correct ply tension i.e. neither slack
nor stretched before cutting the fabric into garment parts.
 If the plies are spread with very low tension they will lie in ridges with
irregular fullness.

If plies are spread in a stretched state they will have tension while held in
the lay, but will contract after relaxation or after cutting or during sewing,
thus it causes shrinking the garment parts to a smaller size than the pattern
pieces.
 This will increase garment rejection as measurements are very important in
export quality garments.
7. What is the significance of ply direction during spreading process
and how can we maintain that? (2 Marks)
 There are various types of fabrics, in terms of surface direction, that are
available in the market which is designed, either way, one way – either way,
or one way only.
 If the fabric doesn’t have any particular nap direction, place the pattern in
any way according to grain line but if the fabric has nap direction, place the
pattern pieces in the same direction in the marker plan, so it is essential that
the fabric is spread in a way that maintains that same direction.
 One garment- One shade-one direction this is been normally followed by
every industry for napped fabric.
 The best examples of such fabrics are velvet where a change in the direction
of pattern placement would clearly show on the garment as different. Parts of
the garment would show the nap of the fabric in different directions.
8. Guide Attachments (2 Marks)
�
Guides are used where sewing must take place in a certain position on a
garment, usually a certain distance from a raw edge in a conventional
superimposed seam where a narrow item such a lace or braid must be
correctly placed on the another such as a patch pocket on a shirt, skirt or
trouser.
1. Edge Guides
2. Stitching Jig
3. Rack Guide
9. Various types of fabrics (Construction Based) – (2 Marks)
�
Fabrics: Sets of yarns are used for formation of fabric, Fabrics are produced
in number of ways which are detailed below:
�
Types of Fabrics
 Woven
 Knitted
 Nonwoven
 Others
�
Woven Fabric: A woven fabric is composed of two basic series of yarn
called warp and weft.
�
Knitted Fabric: Fabric which are constructed by interlocking a series of loop
of one or more yarns by hand or by machine are called knitted Fabrics.
�
Non-woven Fabric: It is produced by mixing fibers and making into the form
of a thick layer of web of width corresponding to desired width of the fabric.
�
Other Fabrics: Braids, Lace, Netting, Felt etc.
10. Salesman sample (4 Marks)
 As the name suggests, the salesman samples or SMS are the samples that are
used for marketing and promotions of the product range.
 Salesman sample is used by the sales team of buyers to enhance the sales of
any garment.
 Buyer sends the sample by a salesman in the market to receive market
feedback from the customers.
 These are generally put on display in retail stores or exhibited at trade shows
to get orders from respective retail channels.
 It is done approximately 200-500pcs depending on the customers and
season.
 The main objects of the SMS sample are to check the market, feedback,
Buyer’s design, etc.
 In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample
yardage need to be used.
 This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer
depends upon this sample presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
 The quality of the sample should be up to the mark of the buyer; hence
merchandiser should aware and make sure that product development team is
well aware about the sample quality parameters.
 The cost of sample production is given by buyer or sometimes buyer may
give 150% of FOB.
11. Size set sample (4 Marks)
 The objective of the size set sample is checking the garment fit of multiple
sizes. The size set samples are normally made for jump sizes.
 Like S, L, XXL. A number of samples required for size set depend on the
buyer's requirement.
 Pattern grading is checked in size set sample.
 If the technical team found some sizes are not giving correct fit, they do
correction on the pattern grading until they get the correct fit.

 After the size set approval, the supplier can develop the PP sample.
 Size set samples are made using actual fabric.
 In case actual fabric is not available, the similar quality fabric can be used.
(Final decision for fabric quality is buyers‟)
12. A purchasing guide to clothing buttons
a. Type of Clothing
b. Type of Fabric
c. Aesthetic or Style
d. Function or Decoration
e. Type of Button
f. Ligne Number
g. Colour Selection
h. Attachment Method
i. Special Requirements
13. Types of zipper (2 Marks and 4 marks)
�
Metal Chain
Metal zippers have been around quite a while. In Metal zippers are available
in four different finishes.
 Aluminum Chain: that is constructed principally from aluminum.
 Brass Chain: that is constructed of brass, typically a combination of
copper and zinc.
 Antique Brass: Chain made from brass that is chemically treated to give
the appearance of worn or tarnished brass.
 Black Oxidized Chain: made from brass that is chemically treated to a
black matte finish.
�
Molded Plastic Chain
 These plastic zippers have individually injected molded teeth, fused
directly onto the tape of the zipper.
 The resins to use to manufacture the molded plastic chain are incredibly
strong.
 These zippers are ideal for many medium and heavy weight garments or
any outdoor application.
�
Coil (Nylon) Chain
 Coil zippers are often referred to as nylon zippers.
 The teeth of these zippers are extruded plastic, sewn onto the zipper tape.
 These zippers are very flexible and are available in a variety of sizes
(gauges).
 Coil zippers have many applications from fashion-wear to all types of
tents and canvas goods and bags.
14. Draw and explain stitch types 401, 406 and 407
401 – A two thread chain stitch, formed with one needle thread and one looper
thread. The threads cross over on the underside of the fabric. It is used for
applications such as joining trouser panels, sewing waist bands and the inseams
of jeans.
406 – A twin needle covers seam stitch. It is formed using two needle threads
and one looper thread. It is often used to cover a raw edge on bottom hems. It
produces a flat and comfortable seam which is useful for cover seaming, sewing
belt loops, binding, and attaching elastic to underwear.
407 – A three needle cover seam which is a variation of stitch 406. It is formed
with 3 needle threads and one looper thread. It is stronger and more elastic and
is also used for undergarments.
15. Direct cost vs. Indirect cost
16. Difference between chain stitch and lock stitch
Chain Stitch
Lock Stitch
Stitches are formed by two or more
There will be at least two types of
groups of threads, needle thread &
threads, one is needle thread and
looper thread.
other is bobbin thread.
The Threads are bound together by
The Threads are only bound by
interlacing and interloping.
interlacing.
Looks like lock stitch at the top side and The visibility look of a lock stitch is
double chain at under.
the same on both sides of the fabric.
Strength is higher than look stitch.
Lower strength than chain stitch.
Possibilities of seam pucker formation
are less compare to lock stitch.
Possibilities of seam pucker are more
than chain stitch.
Extensibilities is 30%
No need of back tacking at finishing
end, but secured by one (cm) thread at
finishing the end.
m/c speed 8000 spm (stitch per min)
Thread consumption is high.
Same, sometimes less than chain
stitch.
Stitches are secured by back tacking at
the starting and finishing the end.
m/c speed 6000 spm.
Thread consumption is less.
17. Stitch 512, 516
Stitch 512
 Also known as a 4-thread mock safety stitch and is created with 2 needle
threads and 2 looper threads.
 In this stitch, the upper side of the stitch resembles the upper side of a true
safety stitch (stitch type 516).
 It is used to create strong seams on the edges of fabric with very good
extension.
 It has high thread consumption but creates a more secure seam than the 504
stitch.
 Seaming Stretch Knits, Wovens.
Stitch 516
 Stitch type 516, or a 5 thread “full safety” stitch, is another combination stitch
type. It is formed with 2 needle threads and 3 looper threads.
 This stitch type combines 401 chain stitch with 504 three thread over edge
(over edge full safety stitch).
 The chain stitch (401) part is what holds the weight while the three-thread
over-edge (504) element covers the edge of the material and provides
additional seam security.
 It is used for joining panels where elasticity and seam security are important.
 Safety Stitch Seaming Wovens & Knits
18. Absorption costing

It is a costing system that is used in valuing inventory.

It not only includes the cost of materials and labor, but also both variable
and fixed manufacturing overhead costs.

Absorption costing is also referred to as full costing.
Direct materials
Direct materials are materials that are included in a finished product.
Direct labor
Direct labor includes the factory labor costs required to construct a
product.
Variable manufacturing overhead
Variable manufacturing overhead includes the costs to operate a
manufacturing facility, which vary with production volume. Examples are
supplies and electricity for production equipment.
Fixed manufacturing overhead
Fixed manufacturing overhead includes the costs to
operate
a
manufacturing facility, which do not vary with production volume.
Examples are rent and insurance.
19. If a fabric roll to roll shade variation what should be the lay
type to be used. Explain the same.
� If find shade variation they have to segregate those pieces into different
shades on the basis of closer shade like Shade# A, Shade# B, Shade# C
etc.
�
Open layout
 In this type of layout, the fabric is not folded at all and the selvedges
will be parallel to each other.
 This is used especially for designs which require right and left halves
to be cut separately. Here the pattern will not be placed on fold.
20. If a fabric end to end shade variation what should be the lay
type to be used. Explain the same.
� Open layout
 In this type of layout, the fabric is not folded at all and the selvedges
will be parallel to each other.
 This is used especially for designs which require right and left halves
to be cut separately. Here the pattern will not be placed on fold.
21.
What should be the type of interlining to be used for a
women’s shirt made of 80s voile fabric? Explain the reason.
Woven interlining
�
It was mainly 100% cotton fabrics made stiff by starch application and
was non-fusible.
�
Normal cotton sheeting fabrics were applied with a layer of adhesive that
can be fixed to the shell fabric by application of heat or pressure. This
formed a composite part of the fused shell part and supported the outer
shell for better drape and look.
�
Woven interlinings are majorly 100% cotton based with a thread density
of variable count as required for the weight or stiffness needed for a
particular use.
21. What should be the type of interlining to be used for a
knitted shirt? Explain the reason.
Knitted interlining
�
Knitted fabrics have a large number of variations in terms of loop
structures to impart flexibility/stretch together with the body (volume)
and strength/stability.
�
They are kept lightweight and soft hand feel of the laminate by using
fine bulked (texturized) filaments.
22. What do you mean by allied fabricators in garment industry?
Material Producer
�
At the mill level, materials are produced and sold to apparels firms such as
fabrics, closures, sewing threads, support materials, trims, and accessories.
�
Some apparel manufacturers are backward vertically integrated with textile
production and therefore may produce in their own plants all or some of the
materials used to make their garments.
�
Some apparel manufacturers buy materials from vendors‟ open stock, and
others with their specification.
23. Explain any two attachments to be used in a sewing line of
trouser manufacturing factory.
a. Belt Loop Folder: It is used for preparing belt loop by using a single needle
lock stitch machine. Here stripe of fabric inserted on the folder.
b. Waist Band Folder: It is used for attaching waistband by using double needle
lockstitch machine. It binds seam on the waistband.
24. Explain any two attachments to be used in a sewing line of shirt
manufacturing factory.
1. Hemming Folder: It is excellent for continuous hemming on automatic
sewing operations. It’s suitable for double needle lockstitch machine. Used to
make narrow hems and straight hemming operations. Output piece seam line
diagram is shown in the image.
2. Sleeve Attaching Folder: It is used for sleeve attaching operation by using a
single needle lock stitch machine. Output piece seam line diagram is shown in
the image.
25. Flow chart for the operation breakdown for knitted trousers in
garment industry
1
Front Rise Take with stripe match
2
Front Rise Join
3
Back Rise Join
4
Front Rise Ts & Fly Shape Stitching W/Deco
5
Care Label Attach
6
Front & back Sticker Match
7
Side Seam Join (Long)
8
Inseam Join (Long)
9
Elastic Open & Give Steam
10
Elastic Measure & Cut
11
Elastic Ring Make &Tk
12
Elastic Mark For Attach
13
Mark Hole Position & Sew
14
Waist Belt Join
15
Elastic Fold &Tk
16
Waist Belt Ts
17
Drawstring Measure & Cut
18
Insert Drawstring & Middling
19
Drawstring Btk
20
Drawstring Mid Btk & Cross Btk
21
Bottom Hem
22
Thread Trimming W/Waist Tk Remove
26.Quality Control
 Quality control (QC) is a process through which a business seeks to ensure
that product quality is maintained or improved.
 Quality control involves testing units and determining if they are within the
specifications for the final product.
 QA primarily focuses on the processes and procedures that improve quality,
including training, documentation, monitoring and audits.