National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai
APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT
Suditi Industries Ltd.
Mentored by:
Ms. Kavita Pathare
NIFT Mumbai
Documented By Aprajita Kumari (BFT/19/1623)
Gaurav Kumar (BFT/19/394)
B.F.Tech. 2019-23
Index
Index
Acknowledgment
0
3Company Profile
4Vision
4Mission
4Certifications
4Major customers:
Exhibit: 1 Suditi Industries Ltd.
5
HR
8
Merchandising Department
8
Workflow
8
Production Planning and Control Department
Process Flow of PPC Department:
Responsibilities of PPC Department:
9
10
10
Departmental Study
11
The pre-production processes
GPT
FPT
Lab dip
Proto sample
Strike-off sample
PP sample
11
12
12
12
12
12
13
CAD
13
Job card
14
Warehouse
15
Trim store
16
Spreading, Cutting, and Sorting Department
17
Spreading
18
Cutting
19
Sorting and Bundling
21
Stitching
22
Machine Count
23
Fusing Department
23
1
Finishing
Thread trimming
Repair work and mending
Ironing garments
Tag attachment
Packing garments
24
24Stain remover
25
25
25
25
25
Quality Department
Inline inspection
Final inspection
25
25
26
Dispatch
27
Maintenance
Machine maintenance
Electrical fittings
Building maintenance
Process Flow:
Screen making techniques
28
28
28
29
30
30
Embroidery Department
Process:
Software: Wing’s ethos, Wileom (computerized embroidery machine)
Project 1
31
31
32
33-41
Project 2
42-48
Plant layout
49 -51
Annexure
52 -60
2
Acknowledgment
We would like to express our deepest gratitude to Suditi Industries Ltd., Turbhe, for providing us with the
opportunity to explore and understand the real face of the garment industry and to Ms. Ishika Sharma, HOD
Planning, for pushing us to explore different aspects of the industry and constantly supporting and guiding
us to make sure that we make the most out of this internship by providing us with real-life dilemmas to deal
with.
We would also like to extend our gratitude to the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai, for
giving us this opportunity and to our mentor Ms. Kavita Pathare - Professor, Department of Fashion
Technology, for her invaluable input and guidance. Completing this internship would not have been
possible without the contributions and support of each of the people mentioned above, along with the
unconditional support from our families. We thank you.
3
Company Profile
Suditi Industries Limited - the company was set up in 1991, Pawan Agarwal as its chairman, in MIDC
industrial area, Pawne village, Navi Mumbai. The comprehensive ecosystem covering knitting, dyeing,
printing, finishing, and garmenting are the work areas at Suditi. The company is moving forward with a
belief to deliver only the best quality and value to its partners and operate on the ethos of innovation and
adaptability. By establishing control over all processes in the value chain, they focus on products of
consistent and standardized quality.
Vision
“To be an integral part of every wardrobe in India.”
Mission
“To constantly deliver fashion and quality in all our product verticals with a key focus on providing
customers with value.”
Certifications
Certifications include ISO 9001: 2000, GOTS, and OEKO TEX S-100.
Major customers:
It is a leading manufacturing house for many reputable buyers like MYNTRA and has its retail outlet with
the name SHOP THE ARENA. Suditi vertically integrated into retail with the brand Riot in 2010. In 2014,
they acquired the apparel rights for the FIFA World Cup in India.
Exhibit: 1 Suditi Industries Ltd.
4
Exhibit: 2 Brands
5
6
Exhibit: 3 Overall Process flow
HR
There are, in total, 4 HRs at Suditi Industries. One senior HR and Three assistant HR’s.
The HR Department looked after the areas like compensation and benefits, recruitment, firing, and keeping
up to date with any laws that may affect the company and its employees.
They are also responsible for keeping the monthly records of different departments. MRM (monthly report
meeting) reports are handed over to them after the meeting. They conduct regular audits within the
company.
Merchandising Department
Planning the correct merchandise at the right time, in the right amount, and at the right price to suit the
needs of the company's target consumer is the process of merchandising. The merchandiser communicates
with the producer to obtain the goods the buyer requires while keeping a close eye on the manufacturing
process.
A Merchandiser’s key responsibilities are as follows:
● Product Development
● Market and Product Analysis
● Selling the concept
● Booking orders
● Confirming Deliveries
● Designing and Sampling
● Raw Material
● Flow Monitoring
● Production Follow Ups
● Payments Follow
Workflow
The following is how the merchandising department works in the Suditi industry:
● The buyer provides the concerned merchandiser and the planning department, who handles that
specific order, a tech pack comprising all the order's information, including the style, cloth, trims,
etc.
● The merchandising department completes the most important costing work after receiving the tech
pack.
● The merchandiser must obtain costing information from the following departments to determine the
ultimate cost:
○ The CAD department sends the fabric consumption to the fabric sourcing department, which
then determines the cost of the fabric based on usage.
○ Examining trims' purchase prices.
7
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
○ The merchant will create the cost sheet once they have gathered all the costing information.
As they produce the cost sheet in accordance with the tech pack the buyer gave, the vendor sends
the cost sheet to the purchaser for approval.
The sampling department creates the samples in collaboration with the merchandiser.
Then the sample is prepared and given to the buyer.
If the sample is not approved by the buyer, appropriate changes are made and sent for re-approval.
If it is, the order is taken to be confirmed.
The buyer's feedback is taken into account, and samples are revised.
After the buyer has given the samples his or her approval, a pre-production meeting is held with the
concerned production unit.
The merchandising division then proceeds after receiving order confirmation.
Informs the planning department about fabrics and trims.
The Pre-Production meeting is held in the company.
Implementation of bulk order production.
The merchandiser follows up with the manufacturing staff to ensure everything is going according
to plan. All of these facts are also given to the buyer to keep them informed.
The merchant prepares the apparel for the purchaser's quality examination after the bulk production
is complete.
When every inspection is successful, the order is prepared for shipping.
The merchants additionally monitor the clothing's payment terms.
Production Planning and Control Department
Production planning and control (PPC) plays a significant role in the garment manufacturing industry. Many
industries have started trusting this particular department to smooth the flow of information from the
production unit to the management department. So, this department builds strong relations with all other
departments to achieve a good output from an export order. This department mainly focuses on planning
the garments' production, dispatching the garments to the buyer before the deadline, and achieving on-time
delivery. It does plan not only the production but also controls it. Their job is to provide a sufficient lead
time for production processes to deliver the order in time.
Exhibit: 4 P.P.C. Department
8
Process Flow of PPC Department:
Inquiry → Order grid → Costing → Product Development Sheet Rough entry → Product Development
Sheet entry including cost → providing the order grid and tech pack to the merchandiser → trims are
ordered → the yarn purchase order is made by fabric requisition sheet → knitting plan is made → after
lab dips get approved → dyeing plan is made → fabric status → production status → Dispatch plans
Responsibilities of PPC Department:
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
Providing the information of fabric to the dyeing unit.
Keeping an update on the database of fabric in-house.
Keeping an update on production status.
Reconciliation of the orders.
Error proofing of the system.
Keeping an update on permanent data flow smoothness.
To manage and regulate the system.
To provide updates on the order and production to the buyer.
To provide information on the order from the buyer to the factory.
Maintaining the record of purchase orders.
Keeping the data of PP samples, strike-offs, and proto samples, so that they can keep the status
update of all the orders.
● They also make inspection requests.
● Updates of dispatch.
● They usually focus on troubleshooting and error-proofing the processes of production so that the
production doesn’t get stopped or delayed.
Some of the tasks which are done by the Production Planning Department are as follows:
● Job or task scheduling: A time and action calendar is prepared firstly for each order, from order
receiving to shipment. Then all the tasks needed for a particular style are re-listed in the job
schedule, and the planner mentions each task's starting date and end date, with the name of the
specified person appointed for the respective jobs.
● Material Resource Planning: Preparing a sheet according to the sampling and buyer’s
requirements. As the sample gets ready, the materials that will be required for the production, like
fabric, thread, buttons, twill tape, etc., and their consumption cost is calculated.
● Loading production: The priorities of styles in the production line are decided by the planning
head and merchandising head.
● Line planning: Preparation of detailed line planning to achieve daily production target by
production line.
● Follow up: Whatever plans are made, the planning team keeps an eye on it if it is implemented
accordingly or not and keeps an update on every process to keep the plan on track, and then they
update the styles which are ready to dispatch in their time and action calendar.
9
Departmental Study
Exhibit: 5 Departmental Study
The pre-production processes
Sampling department:
The merchandiser hands over the tech pack and explains the design in detail to the sampling head (Gupta
master). One more tech pack and positive film artwork are sent to Sudeep (printing contractor) if any
printing sample needs to be made.
Exhibit: 6 Sampling Department
Each buyer sets guidelines for what all tests are mandatory at the fabric stage and after the garment stage.
Buyers send this package tests list to their nominated testing labs. Before bulk production, buyers asked for
10
FPT and GPT test reports from their vendors for production approval. The garment manufacturer then sends
the sample (fabric or garment) to the testing labs for FPT and GPT.
● GPT
GPT stands for Garment Package Test
A sample is collected from the bulk production and sent to a testing lab for garment performance
test (GPT). The garment performance tests like seam strength, seam slippage, button pulling
strength, print quality, chemical tests of metals, and dyed and printed colours are done. List tests to
be performed by the lab are given by the buyers.
● FPT
FPT stands for Fabric Package Test.
Under FPT, about 3 metres of fabric is required, and the following tests are conducted:
1. Yarn Count`
2. Construction
3. GSM
4. Fibre Composition
5. Tensile Strength
6. Tear Strength
7. Colorfastness to washing at 40 deg.
8. Colorfastness to rubbing.
9. Colorfastness to perspiration.
10. Colorfastness to Water.
11. Shrinkage.
Following Samples are made during the pre-production process:
● Lab dip
Lab dip is a specimen of dyed fabric or yarns prepared for color approval. Lap dip is an essential
process in fabric development for apparel and fabric manufacturing businesses. Before bulk fabric
dyeing lab dip, approval is taken from the buyer.
● Proto sample
The proto samples are normally made of matching fabric quality (weight and fabric types), as during
proto sample development, the actual fabric is not available with the factory during proto sample
development. The proto sample is made in one size. The number of proto samples to be made
depends on the buyer’s requirement.
● Strike-off sample
During sample development or before production printing, suppliers develop these strike-offs from
a printer (printing house) during sample development or production printing. For strike-off sample
printing, actual production fabric and actual base color are used, like the lab dip approval process.
11
Exhibit: 7 Strike-off sample
● PP sample
A pre-production sample is the first sample made in the actual production line of the factory. It’s
constructed with the actual fabrics intended for the design and trims with all the order specifications
regarding measurements, embroidery, and washes. It’s a test run by the factory, and they can
proceed with the bulk production only when the PP sample is approved by the brand.
Exhibit:8 P.P. sample
CAD
The merchandise sent the tech pack to the CAD department. The CAD department makes the pattern on
their software (Gemini). Then a sample is made using that pattern; if the sample is a perfect fit, the grading
is done for the pattern, and the marker is made. If there is any problem with the pattern, appropriate changes
are made. Sometimes when there is a shortage of time, they scan their old pattern using a camera, then
modify it on their software.
12
Exhibit:9 CAD Department
Job card
The Job Card stores basic production information about a particular operation performed on a particular
Workstation. It is created from the Work Order and given to each workstation on the manufacturing floor
to start the production of an item with a certain quantity in each of the operations defined in the Work Order.
It allows each Operation's workstation to issue a “Material Request” and “Stock Transfer to Manufacture”
for raw material required against a “Job Card.”
They can track the completion of production progress for each of the operations defined in the Work Order
and the quantity of the specific style.
The merchandiser hands over the job to the project and operation head. After that, the project and operation
head verify the details on the job card and hand over the job card to the merchandiser, then it is handed over
to the cutting head. Without the job card, the materials for a style are not allowed to move from one
department to the next. Every department head has to fill in details according to their department. They
have allotted a person who enters the job card details on google sheets.
13
Exhibit: 10 Job card
Warehouse
In Suditi, the department in charge is Zahida khan. They have a storage area on the ground floor to store
moving fabrics (that will be used for production). The warehouse can store about 500 tons of fabric
currently. The storage area is divided into three parts – the area of the rack is used for storing dyed fabric
which will be used for production. The other part is used to store yarns for knitting purposes, and the other
is used to store greige fabric. They have numbers like F1, F2, etc., where “F” stands for fabric and number
id is the unique identity number.
The warehouse in charge keeps records of
● Fabric quantity in kg
● Colour of the fabric
● Gsm of the fabric
● Width of the fabric
● Styles code
● Buyer’s detail
● Time record: When was the fabric brought to the warehouse and house
● Scrap detail: How much quantity is used and how much is left after garment cutting.
● Location detail
● The fabric that was given for matching trims and FPT and GPT
They have four workers for this section. Recently they have implemented a time slot for fabric allotment
from 12 pm. to 2 pm. After that slot, they won’t allow any fabric to anyone.
14
Exhibit: 11 Warehouse
Trim store
The trims are generally buttons, drawcords, labels, threads, polybags, cartons, and waistbands, all locally
sourced from trim suppliers like Kanchipuram, Tirupur, etc. Sometimes, brands themselves provide certain
trims from their personal vendors. They have used My Way software to keep their records. Trims were
issued to sewing workers after they showed the job card in the trims store. Needles were issued frequently
to the worker whenever it got broken down, but first, they had to submit the broken needle to the trim store
worker. They had racks to store their trims.
15
Exhibit: 12 Trim store
Spreading, Cutting, and Sorting Department
The merchandiser handed over the tech pack to the cutting head. There are three cutting contractors, and each
contractor has three helpers. The cutting head decides which contractor will cut which style. The cutting head hands
over the job card to the contractor, and the contractor then brings the fabric that is mentioned on the job card from
the warehouse. The contractors are paid according to the piece rate. The piece rate is fixed by Mr. Vikas Sharma
(merchandising head). The helper has a fixed salary according to their work experience.
16
Spreading
Exhibit: 13 Spreading
Suditi follows a manual spreading procedure with two spreaders on either side of the table. It takes
approximately 30mins to 1hr for the operators to spread the fabric for cutting, sometimes more than that.
First, they spread a single layer of fabric and place all the patterns according to the marker plan given to
them, this gives them the idea of what should be the fabric length for a particular style. They stick the first
layer of the fabric with the table using a regular sellotape. This acts as the lay length reference and helps
prevent the fabric from slipping. They don't use any types of clamps or pins while spreading. Instead of
that, they use weights to hold the fabric. While spreading, they record the weight of the roll and how many
plies are spread with it. After spreading, the fabric is left for relaxing.
17
Cutting
18
Exhibit: 14 Cutting room workflow
19
Exhibit:15 Cutting
The lay of fabric after spreading as per the lay plan is taken for cutting by manual cutters using the straight
knife first for the larger parts and then by band knife for the smaller ones. Per day a minimum of 2 styles
and a maximum of 4 styles are cut. Straight knife Cutting: Large Parts: Ready Cut (Plain Fabrics), Block
Cut (Stripes and Checks)
Small Parts: Block Cut.
Band knife Cutting: Ready Cut of both small and large parts after Relaying.
Sorting and Bundling
After pieces are cut, they are tied into a size-wise bundle. Small fabric pieces are attached to the bundle,
and sizes are mentioned on it. If any kind of print has to be done in a particular style, the pieces are sent to
the printing room, but before sending it to the printing room, size-wise ticketing and counting are done.
After printing, the fabric comes back to the sorting department; the worker of the department sorts them
size-wise and counts them again.
Exhibit:16 Sorting and Bundling
20
Stitching
Exhibit: 17 Stitching workflow
21
Exhibit:18 Stitching
The cutting head hands over the job card to the stitching head. The stitching head decides which stitching
contractor will carry forward the stitching process. There are a total of 4 contractors and a total of 6 stitching
lines. Each contractor has 15 to 20 workers depending upon workload upon workload. A dashboard is
created to maintain the details of the stitching line. The stitching head updated details such as the number
of workers per line, and category-wise quantity stitched out. Per day approx. 2500 garments are being
stitched out.
Machine Count
Single Needle lock stitch:140
Overlock:
77
Flatlock:
45
Bartack :
4
Button Hole: 2
SNAP:
2
Piping:
3
Double needle lock stitch: 1
5T Overlock: 1
PIPING :
3
Button attachment:
1
Fusing Department
Heat set labels are attached to the garment panels. There are separate fusing machines for ready-made
garments and cut panels. Temperature, pressure, and time play a major role in heat settings.
22
Exhibit:19 Fusing Department
Finishing
Stitched garments are handed over to the finishing contractors. There are 3 finishing contractors. Garments
are handed to everyone on a rotation basis. Finishing activities are performed before packing garments into
poly bags. The major activities of a finishing department include thread trimming, checking garments, and
ironing.
Activities of the finishing department are listed below
Exhibit:20 Finishing
23
Thread trimming
Thread chains and trails are not neatly trimmed in the stitching department. Helpers in the finishing
department trim uncut threads and thread tails in clothing. Clothes defects include uncut and loose threads.
Stain remover
Clothes might have stains and blotches. Before pressing, spots are eliminated with a hand spotter or a stain
remover that is white petrol.
Repair work and mending
Defective garments may need to repair for stitching and fabric defects. All repair activities are done in the
finishing department itself. Some operators are a lot in the stitching line for alteration work; defective
garments are sent to the stitching department.
Ironing garments
Garments are ironed using a steam iron. This is done to remove creases in the garment. For knitted garments,
measurements are set by the steam press. Vacuum pressing tables are used for garment pressing. Pressed
garments are folded in a specified dimension.
Tag attachment
Tags, such as price tags and hang tags, are attached to the garment using a thread.
Exhibit: 21 Attaching tags to the garment
Packing garments
Finally, properly folded garments are packed into poly bags as per customer requirements. Individual poly
bags are then packed into bigger cartons.
Quality Department
Inline inspection
There are four people for inline inspection and roving QCs. It is lined. It is their responsibility to check the
output of every operator. They walk along the line and check ten garments of each operator; if any defects
24
are found, they inform them to correct or alter them and keep a record of it. They continue this process after
every two hours.
These are
● Collars & Cuffs matching,
● Sewing threads matching,
● cutting patterns,
● stitching,
● Absence of stitching,
● Needle holes & marks,
● Unbalanced sleeve edge,
● Unbalanced placket,
● Open seam,
● Puckering,
● Garment length,
● Shoulder length,
● Body width,
● Shoulder length,
● Placket width,
● Placket length,
● Armhole,
● Arm Opening,
● Sleeve length,
● Rib or Collar width,
● Incorrect side shape,
● Broken & Missing stitch,
● Bottom hem
● Uneven neck shape,
● Stitching defects,
● Measurements,
● Buttons,
Final inspection
The clothing is again removed from the cartons after packing to be checked for quality in the quality
department. Here, a skilled checker will carefully examine each of the chosen items. The AQL Chart
determines how many cartons should be chosen for inspection. And the AQL Chart also determines if the
lot will be passed or failed. The buyer's requirements will determine whether the AQL is 1.5 or 2.5. The
entire lot is rejected if the checking does not fulfill the necessary AQL.
25
Exhibit: 22 Final Inspection
A quality inspector should ensure different matters according to the buyer’s instruction in the production
stage of garments.
● Shade variation from one part to another part of garments,
● Garments measurement with the allowance from buyers provided measurement chart,
● Collar and sleeves balanced,
● Pockets correct,
● Absence of fabric faults and stains,
● Appearance corrects,
● Patterns matching,
● Absence of miss stitching,
● Seams finished correctly,
● Accessories correctly applied and working,
● Correct labeling.
Dispatch
After the garments are finished and poly-packed their barcodes are scanned and packed into cartons. The
dispatch department receives a purchase order from the buyer which has details of the products, warehouse
address (places where the products will be dispatched), and order quantity (sizewise). Details are mentioned
on the carton. The invoice is attached to the carton giving all the order details. The invoice contains
information like a carton barcode, which tells how many pieces of which size are there in the carton just by
scanning it. It also contains details like value, carton number, PO number, vendor name, sizes, total pieces,
weight, and state in which the carton is going to be dispatched. Apart from that, they also write the name
of the state, the colour of the garment, styles, and the number of pieces under each size. After this, the
carton is dispatched and the database of dispatch products or styles is maintained and updated by the
planning department.
26
Exhibit: 23 Dispatch
Maintenance
The maintenance department practices preventive and breakdown maintenance, which is primarily aimed
toward reduced downtime and increased life, respectively.
● Machine maintenance
Exhibit:24 Maintenance
For this, they have one mechanic. The machines of the parts section of each line are monitored by one
mechanic and all the machines used for assembly are looked upon by one mechanic. For any major issues,
the department head along with the mechanic and the electrician from the brand company fix the problem.
In the case of newly installed machines, the mechanics are trained by special trainers sent by the company.
● Electrical fittings
Electrical fittings and all heat-emitting machines are looked upon by the electrician of the factory. They
have one electrician who is supposed to take care of each of the floors respectively. In this case, breakdown
maintenance is practiced, that is, any repair work is only undertaken when the equipment fails.
27
● Building maintenance
Exhibit: 25 Removing old and un-dispatched goods
Any repair work in the building is the responsibility of the maintenance department. This includes
whitewashing, painting furniture, making various marks in different areas like mending the damaged
structures and cleaning, etc.
Printing Department
Exhibit: 26 Printing Department
28
Process Flow:
Order received
↓
The buyer sends the artwork and positive film with a tech pack.
↓
The merchandiser sends the tech pack and artwork to the printing contractor.
↓
One screen is prepared.
↓
Sampling is done
↓ (after approval)
Rest screen of same prints are prepared
↓
Printing is done
Positive films come from the buyer, and the merchandiser provides them to the Printing consultant.
Exhibit:27 Positives
Screen making techniques
Step 1 - Making the screen using the bolting fabric of nylon and monocoated with a unique emulsion
(Photochemical KK777) of pasteable adhesive and quick-drying thinner that prevents ink from penetrating
the screen when printing.
Step 2 - Kodatrace (film) placed onto a large exposure unit (like a big lightbox).
Step 3 - Placed on the exposed light for 45sec. and put sand for weight on the film for accurate design
Step 4: After rinsing the screen with water, the emulsion will be carefully cleaned away, leaving a clear
mesh that will reveal the design's impression.
Step 5 - The screen is fan dried in a black room, then touched up with the emulsion if needed.
Step 6 - This screen is used for screen print by hand and by advancing technology i.e. Carousel. The carousel
is a clever piece of equipment that can print up to 8 different colours.
Step 7: A big dryer is used to dry the printed item at a predetermined temperature.
29
This bakes the print onto the item which results in a colorfast product.
Step 8 - Checks for print quality and gives final retouch.
Step 9 - Drying.
Step 10 - Fixation of printed colours using securing machine
Exhibit:28 Printing screens
Embroidery Department
Exhibit:29 Embroidery department
The company has a very well-equipped embroidery unit. There are two large embroidery machines with a
total of 24 heads.
Computerised embroidery machines: To construct a design from a preprogrammed digital embroidered
pattern, sewing-embroidery machines use a framing system to hold the framed region of fabric taut under
the sewing needle and move it mechanically.
Process:
● Edit the design.
● Loading of the final design file into the embroidery machine is done after making sure it is in the
right format and will fit in the appropriate hoop.
● Stabilisation of the fabric is done and placed into the machine.
30
● The embroidery machine is turned on and threaded.
● The process is repeated until success is achieved.
Software: Wing’s ethos, Wileom (computerised embroidery machine)
Threads used: cotton, polyester, viscose, lurex
The stitch length varies depending on the fabric/design from 0.7mm to 12mm. Gauge varies depending on
the style of the design.
There are four types of embroidery done on the machine: appliqué, satin, filling, and cross stitch.
31
Project 1
Preventive maintenance
A. Aim
To reduce downtime and have an uninterrupted sewing process. To retain the healthy condition of
equipment and prevent significant breakdowns or failure by the deterioration of facilities. To
maintain a proper database of breakdown.
B. Objectives of the project
Preventive maintenance. To resolve any issue that might occur during machines' functioning for
smoother operation in the production flow.
C. Background of the project
To maintain a proper database of all the machines about their functionality, what is the reason
behind not using them, and list down the reason for failure in good management for making a
proper plan to address those issues.
We used preventive maintenance to prevent costly repair and value losses due to low production
or bad quality, which might occur in the industry.
D. Problem statement
● Excessive downtime - Machine problems that are existing for more than a week and are
avoided, due to which machine stops multiple times resulting in excessive downtime.
● Poor quality products - garments had defects like stains due to machine problems.
● Poor database - records of machine maintenance missing from recond books. Manual
entries are time-consuming.
● Delay in production: - some occasionally used machines were not maintained properly,
which resulted in a delay in the production process when needed.
● Costly repair work - expensive machines are non-maintained frequently, which results in a
complete breakdown of machines, and an excessive amount is
● Missing part - workers complained about the parts missing from the machines during their
absences of long breaks.
E. Review of literature
The heart of the apparel manufacturing industry is the sewing machine. Despite having a
complicated appearance, a sewing machine requires very little upkeep. Every sewing machine
needs to be regularly cleaned and oiled as required. The machine will need to be cleaned and oiled
32
more frequently the more it is used. You can learn how to maintain a sewing machine in this
article.
The study sought to accomplish the following.
● To reduce breakdowns
● To reduce the repair time
● To introduce a preventive maintenance plan
Sewing machine maintenance/servicing checklist
1. Air device
2. Trimmer device
3. Super tension post takes up spring
4. Needle bar, bush and clam condition
5. Needle plate condition
6. Feed dog condition
7. Winder condition
8. Rottery hook or loopers
9. Oil level/ oil filter condition
10. Machine table in good condition
11. Cleaning and blowing
12. The lubricant in equipment (oil and grease cut)
13. Main shaft, connecting rod, bearing condition
14. The machine head has to be balanced with the base plate
15. Knife slide
16. Power on/ off switch
17. Motor and control box condition
18. Abnormal sound Connecting rod and crosshead
F. Research questions
● Is it feasible?
● Is it worth it?
● Is it easy to use?
● What are its requirements?
● Who can use this?
● How can it help the industry?
G. Methodology
33
Phase 1 - Secondary research
We gathered information about preventive maintenance related to the garment industry.
We also acquired the data on the previous maintenance done in the industry.
❖ No proper database of the parts was replaced/repaired or changed. The
maintenance team verbally informs the department of the spare parts at the end of
the month.
❖ Data entry is missing in diaries because the person who maintains the record was
on leave.
Fig. 1 Improper Maintenance of records
Phase 2 - Primary research
We went to the production floor, counted the machines, identified their type, and asked the
operator about the functioning of the machine. We also inquired about the problems faced
by the operator while working on them.
● Calculation of losses incurred to the company due to machine breakdown or
stopping.
34
Fig. 2 Primary research work
● We identified Machine problems that were there for more than a week after
interviewing the 97 workers.
35
Fig. 3 Primary research data
3A SNLS (PDANM03386) - thread cutter not working
3B SNLS (PDANL01727) - machine gets heated up. Need regular oiling.
4B SNLS (PDANL01734)- machine stopping automatically
Fig. 4 Problems spotted by workers
6M Bartrack (2L1Z001320)- Stain found on garment.
36
7J SMOKING (000029) - Only one smoking machine is on the floor, which is not
in regular use, due to which regular maintenance is avoided. When the machine is
required too much time, it takes and
Phase 3 - Prototype Development
1. We assigned di
2. fferent numbers to each sewing line on the production floor.
3. Then we gave a unique identity name to each machine.
Line number
1A SNLS (PDANL01771)
Machine
Machine code
type
4. We made a google spreadsheet containing all the details about the machine and its
functionality.
● Google forms contain questions
●
Machine code
● Working, not working, Under maintenance
● Issues faced
● Image (if proper is critical and not being solved)
● Remarks (how long the machine was not working)
5. We generate QR codes for each machine.
Fig. 5 QR codes
6. QR linked with google forms.
37
Fig. 6 Form details
7. Installation of QR code on each machine
38
Fig. 7 Installation of QR code
8. Briefing the maintenance person on how to use it.
9.
Maintenance work after every 15 days
Fig. 8 Observation of maintenance work
10. Analyzing data
It helps to quickly collect the information by scanning the QR Code and filling out the
form linked to the spreadsheet that stores it. Data is collected on a spreadsheet.
H. Survey (Google forms)
39
Fig. 9 Minimum occurrence of problems after implementing the project
I. Findings and discussion
● Machine breakdown was reduced due to frequent maintenance routines.
● Machines which was not needed frequently were kept maintained. so that if required, it
doesn't take too much time to start, and the production process is smooth
● A proper database recorded the parts replaced. Which resulted in maintaining proper
records of the cost incurred in maintenance.
● Machines that had problems for more than a month were resolved.
● Quality of products was maintained
J. Conclusion
Preventive maintenance consists of routine inspections (daily, weekly, or monthly cleaning,
inspection, oiling, and re-tightening) and service tasks that are intended to identify probable
failures and make small modifications and repairs that will result in significant operating issues
down the road. According to their maintenance calendar or timetable, the sewing maintenance
40
staff performs preventative maintenance. Preventive maintenance maintains the equipment's sound
condition and averts major failures caused by deteriorating facilities. It includes straightforward
chores like cleaning, inspection, determining the condition of the equipment, changing the oil,
water, and air, aligning the machine, re-tightening, etc. To assure continued operation, routine
maintenance includes performing periodic inspections, servicing, lubrication, cleaning, and part
replacements on equipment.
K. Limitations and future scope
The analysis reported in this paper has been carried out for sewing machines in the production
line. In the future, researchers can develop more general maintenance schedules for different
machines across the apparel and textile industry.
● Real-time status
● AI implementation
41
Project 2
Standardization of database of cutting department
A. Aim
To make a proper database for better communication and to keep an appropriate record of the
cutting department.
B. Objectives of the project
Database Management through google spreadsheets. To gather intel with the help of an entry form
to keep a daily digital record of the cutting department. To calculate the productivity of the
department. To get a monthly overview of cutting department production.
C. Background of the project
While collecting the data of every department, we came to know that the records of the cutting
department were not properly documented, there was no proper format for keeping records, and
there were irregularities in the manual entries that were earlier recorded. So, we were given the
project of making a digital database to keep and maintain records for the smooth flow of the
department.
D. Problem statement
No database management system- We found that there was no management system for keeping
records of the cutting department.
Error in entries- The manual entries that were previously done have many errors that we
discovered while studying the data that they provided to us.
No proper record of entries- We found out that the cutting department didn’t maintain a proper
digital record of their production. It was very difficult to conclude anything from the entries that
they provided to us.
E. Research questions
● What’s the need for the project?
● What problem area it’s going to tackle?
● Is it feasible to implement?
● Does it require any particular skill set?
● What’s the central challenge area that you encounter?
● How is it going to help the industry?
F. Methodology
Phase 1 - Secondary research
We studied their cutting ledger, which they have maintained.
We also studied various database management systems already implemented in other industries.
42
Fig. 1 Unclear database of the company
Fig. 2 Incorrect monthly report
Phase 2 - Primary research
We analyzed their data and determined which parameters to include in a proper database
management system.
Phase 3 - Prototype Development
● We made an entry form in which, just by entering a few details, we can get various
information about the particular style. They need to enter the SO number from the drop
down menu.
● Then style names related to the particular SO entered will appear in the drwp down menu
of the style name. They need to select the relevant style name.
43
Fig. 3 Entry form format
● Rest details will related to style will appear listed below.
Style ID
Color
Merchandiser
Contractor
Brand
Accrual gsm
Category
VAN
Order quantity
Fug. 4 Minimal input requirements
● The person just has to fill in the essential cutting department related.
Listed below
Date
44
Count of pieces cut (Size wise ratio)
Fabric utilised
● Some details will be automatically calculated
Total cut piece
Balanced fabric
Actual consumption
● After pressing the button save the data is entered automatically in a google sheet named
database.
Fig. 5 Database to store entries
● To filter out data of a particular date, we have created a separate sheet named daily
updates. In which we just need to enter a particular date, and all the entries of that
particular will appear to the factory manager
Fig. 6 Daily update sheet
● We have also created a dashboard for the cutting department data.
The dashboard works in two way
1. Date wise
45
When we enter a date range the dashboard will show us the total piece cut
(sizewise ratio) along with a pie chart, sum total of the sizewise ratio, total fabric
utilised, productivity, wastage and the difference between the actual fabric
utilization and planned fabric utilization along with a bar graph.
Fig. 7 Monthly observation of cutting detail
2. Style and so wise
When you enter the date SO and Style name from the drop down menu. The cutting
details of the particular style wil be shown as listed below.
total piece cut(sizewise ratio)
sum total of the sizewise ratio
Planned fabric utilization
Actual fabric utilization
Balance fabric according to the actual consumption
Balanced fabric, according to the data entered
46
Fig. 8 Style-wise cutting detail
Finding and Discussion:
We found out that many irregularities among the cutting department records were maintained. We
found that their expected productivity didn’t meet the actual production. They were lagging far
behind their target. We got to know that in some styles, the fabric left was zero according to the
manual entry but according to actual consumption, the fabric should be left. Which clearly
denoted that fabric was being misused or leftover fabrics were not returned. Comparing the
planned and actual consumption denoted that they are using more fabric than planned which is
somehow increasing their cost. Total cut pieces (Size wise ratio) formed a database for the retail
section because they got an idea of how many pieces they should manufacture for their brand shop
in the arena. It created a kind of market survey for the retail section.
Fig. 9 Overall dashboard
Advantages:
47
●
●
●
●
Digital database for all the entries.
Easy to use.
A monthly review report is possible easily
Difference in fabric consumption (planned vs actual)
Challenges
● Dependency on other departments for pulling out the data required for the cutting
department.
● Google sheets take a little longer time to load the data.
● Rejection can’t be calculated because they don’t keep track of rejecting pieces in the
cutting department.
Future scope:
● No dependency on other departments for their database through Better ERP system.
● A detailed review of every style can also be included, with the reason for the rejected
pieces found.
48
Plant Layout
Exhibit: 30 Spreading and Cutting Department
49
Exhibit: 31 Warehouse
50
Exhibit: 32 Printing
51
Annexure
Time study
52
Cutting Department
Spreading
Company
53
*@ signifies Yes
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61