LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Cover Page Table of Contents Introduction...………………………………………………………. Content Standard and Performance Standard……………… Objectives………………………………………………………. Program Requirements……………………………………….. Learning Episodes……………………………………………… How to Use this Learner‟s Materials……………………………… Diagnostic Assessment…………………………………………… Personal Entrepreneurial Competencies (PECs)…………….. Environment and Market (EM)……………………………………. 3 4 4 4 5 6 7 12 23 Quarter I Ladies’ Skirt Overview…………………………………………………… Objectives ………………………………………………… Pre-Test 1…………………………………………………. 42 42 43 Lesson 1 Produce Ladies’ Skirt LO 1 Draft and Cut Pattern ……………………... LO 2 Prepare and Cut Materials……………...…. LO 3 Assemble Garment Parts ……………….... LO 4 Apply Finishing Touches ………………..... Enhancement Activity..................................................... Post Test 1 .................................................................... 46 113 127 141 156 163 Quarter II Ladies’ Blouse Overview ......................................................................... Objectives........................................................................ Pre-Test 2........................................................................ 168 168 168 Lesson 1: Produce Ladies’ Blouse LO 1 Draft and Cut Pattern ................................ LO 2 Prepare and Cut Materials ........................ LO 3 Assemble Garment Parts ......................... LO 4 Apply Finishing Touches .......................... Enhancement Activity....................................................... Post Test 2 ...................................................................... 172 219 227 241 266 278 Quarter III Ladies’ Trousers Overview ......................................................................... Objectives......................................................................... Pre-Test 3......................................................................... 282 282 282 1 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Lesson 1: Produce Ladies Trousers LO 1 Draft and Cut Pattern ........................................285 LO 2 Prepare and Cut Materials ................................316 Enhancement Activity............................................................... Post Test 3 .............................................................................317 QUARTER IV Ladies’ Trousers Overview .................................................................................322 Objectives................................................................................322 Pre-Test 4...............................................................................322 Lesson 2: Produce Ladies Trousers LO 3 Assemble Garment Parts ..................................324 LO 4 Apply Finishing Touches ...................................329 Enhancement Activity...............................................................338 Post Test 4.............................................................................. 341 Summative Assessment………………….……………………………………....345 Synthesis……………………….……………………………………………….......347 Glossary…………………….…………………………………………………........348 References……………….……………………………………………………........354 Key to Correction………………………………………………..………….......…356 2 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Introduction Technology and Livelihood Education (TLE) is one nomenclature in the implementation of the K to 12 Basic Education Program (BEP). It is composed of four components, namely, Agri-Fishery Arts, Home Economics, Industrial Arts and Information and Communication Technology. In this learner‟s material, the focus is on a course in Home Economics – Dressmaking. The course provides varied and relevant activities and opportunities to determine your understanding of the key concepts and to demonstrate core competencies as prescribed in TESDA Training Regulation in Dressmaking. Thus, it aims to provide quality service to target clients along side of assessing yourself as to the aspects of business that you may consider to strengthen and safeguard before you become a part of the dressmaking provider sector. The world of work today presents a picture of available jobs that are getting scarcer each year. To address this reality, the Department of Education is stretching its available resources, prioritizing needs, and developing sustainable programs to lead and to prepare the young minds as future skillful dressmaker or any related job. The Department further believes that it is in honing the skills that the learner can have an edge over other job seekers. DepEd endeavors to equip the learners with the appropriate knowledge, attitude, values and skills necessary to become productive citizens of our society. This learning material is specifically crafted to focus on the different activities that will assess your level in terms of skills and knowledge necessary to get a Certificate of Competency and/or National Certification. This learning material will surely make you a certified dress provider. 3 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Content Standard The learner demonstrates understanding of core concepts and principles in dressmaking. Performance Standard The learner independently performs the core competencies in Dressmaking as prescribed in the TESDA Training Regulation. Objectives Learners are expected to become proficient in performing skills on the following competencies: 1. develop personal entrepreneurial skills; 2. produce skirt; 3. produce blouse; and 4. produce trousers. Program Requirements Grade 10 students who will take Dressmaking course as their specialization in Technology and Livelihood Education (TLE) – Home Economics should have successfully taken the exploratory course in dressmaking in grades 7/8 and have successfully completed the competencies indicated in Grade 9. The student of this course must possess the characteristics of a person who are inclined in dressmaking, the common competencies, good visual impact; and or with perfect vision (20/20), and desirable work habits and attitudes towards the completion of output. Learners are expected to develop their knowledge and skills in Dressmaking. They should demonstrate skills Learners are required to demonstrate desirable work habits and attitudes towards the completion of outputs. The learner‟s materials should be taken for one school year for a total of 160 hours. Lessons should be taken one at a time, following the correct sequence being presented and should accomplish the assessment or enhancement activities before proceeding to the next lesson. Along the learning process, learners of this course are required to complete the 25- hour - industry involvement to different dressmaking shops to experience the actual workplace. 4 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Learning Episodes This learning resource is subdivided into four (4) quarters which may serve as the recommended scope and limit for every academic grading period. In every quarter, there are lessons that comprise the learning outcomes. Before exploring the core competencies of Dressmaking, you will be guided on how to assess your own Personal Entrepreneurial Competencies and Skills (PECS) and demonstrate your understanding about the Environment and Market. Quarter I helps the learner demonstrate understanding on the principles of designing and sewing ladies‟ skirt. This will lead the learners to draft and cut patterns, prepare and cut materials, assemble the garment parts and apply finishing touches. The preparation of project plan and rubrics for evaluating the finished products are also presented.. Quarter II discusses how to produce ladies‟ blouse. The lessons in this chapter deal with techniques and processes which will guide the learners in designing and sewing blouse. Learning outcome shows that learners demonstrate how to draft and cut pattern, prepare and cut materials, assemble garment parts, and apply finishing touches. Preparation of project plan and rubrics for evaluating the finished product is given and lessons on how to pack and label the finished product are also discussed. Quarters III and IV deal with the construction of ladies‟ trousers. In this lesson, the learner demonstrates understanding on the principles of designing and sewing ladies‟ trousers. Step-by-step procedures and techniques on how to draft and cut pattern for ladies trouser, prepare and cut materials, assemble garment parts and apply finishing touches on trousers are discussed. Project plan, and rubrics for evaluating the finished output are also given. Goodluck and use this learning material as your guide to become a successful dress provider in the future. 5 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ HOW TO USE THIS LEARNER’S MATERIAL Here are some reminders on how to use this material. 1. Answer the diagnostic assessment before you proceed to the different activities. The diagnostic assessment determines how much you know about the lessons and identifies the areas you ought to learn more. Your teacher will check and analyze your score to determine your learning needs. 2. This learner‟s material contains relevant information and activities. Go over each activity carefully. If you encounter difficulties, do not hesitate to consult your teacher for assistance. Do not skip any topic unless you are told to do so. REMEMBER that each activity is a preparation for the succeeding activities. 3. For every lesson/learning outcomes, perform the enhancement activities to enrich the knowledge and skills. 4. After successfully finished the tasks, answer the post-test to be given by your teacher. Your score will be analyzed and will be used by your teacher for the computation of your grades. 5. Lastly, DO NOT mark the learner‟s material in any way. 6 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 6. DIAGNOSTIC ASSESSMENT 7. A. Multiple Choice Directions: Read the statements carefully. Write the letter that best describes the statement. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. Type of cloth that has the following characteristics: absorbency, heat conduction, strength, and beauty. a. Cotton c. Linen b. Poplin d. Broadcloth 2. Type of cloth which is also called tabinet. a. Gingham c. Linen b. Poplin d. Silk 3. Type of test that is used to determine slippage of threads by pulling the fabric from both sides of the tuck. a. Test by pin c. Test by thumb b. Test for sizing d. Test for straight of grain 4. Type of test that determines the strength and shape-holding qualities of both lengthwise and crosswise of fabrics. a. Test by pin c. Test by Thumb b. Test for sizing d. Test by mercerization 5. Type of skirt which is small at the waist and widens evenly as it reaches the ground. a. Straight skirt c. Pleated skirt b. Gathered skirt d. A-line skirt 6. Skirt style which is gathered at the waist and set into a band to look more fitted to the hips. a. Straight skirt c. Pleated skirt b. Gathered skirt d. A-line skirt 7. The skirt style that has fullness all around the hem where soft ruffles goes up toward the waist from the bottom. a. Gored skirt c. Pleated skirt b. Flared skirt d. Gathered skirt 8. Sewing construction where the fabric sewn is between the fabric edge and the stitched seam line. a. Seams c. Tucks b. Darts d. Gathers 7 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 9. Sewing construction which serves the same purpose as a dart except it releases fullness at the larger parts of the body. a. Seams c. Tucks b. Darts d. Gathers 10. It is the process of joining two pieces of fabric where one is slightly longer than the other to have extra fullness for ease of movement rather than decoration. a. Stitching c. Pleating b. Easing d. Gathering 11. They are folds of fabric which give fashion and interest to clothing. a. Facings c. Pleats b. Darts d. Gathers 12. It is an extra fabric cut with the same shape as the facing and inserted between the facing and the garment to prevent stretching and sagging. a. Interfacing c. Lining b. Underlining d. Interlining 13. The measurement around the smallest part of the body. a. Lower hip c. Waistline b. Skirt length d. Lower hip level 14. It gives the dressmaker a blueprint of what a garment will look like. a. Sketching c. Measuring b. Pattern drafting d. Sewing 15. Darts, buttonholes, pleats, tucks, and pockets placement are examples of a. Grainline markings c. Dots b. Seamline d. Construction marks B. True or False Directions. Write True if the statement is correct and False if the statement is wrong. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. __________1. Construction lines show where to cut the pieces. __________2. Adding extra width along the entire side seam will make the waistline smaller. __________3. Pattern layout helps determine if the patterns are enough for the fabric. __________4. When cutting the fabric, it is advisable to walk around the table instead of pulling the fabric towards you. __________5.After cutting, remove the pins of the patterns immediately from the fabric. 8 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ __________6. In transferring marks onto the fabric, start with the small pattern pieces to finish the job earlier. __________7.Pressing straighten the grain lines and preshrink fabric. __________8. Do not press the seam before cross-stitching it with another seam. __________9. The sequencing for the unit of construction of the different parts of the skirt is basically the same for all skirt types. __________10. Zippers are generally used for placket closure. C. Identification Directions. Identify the words(s) that best describes the statements. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. ________1. What color calls out the silhouette, or outline figure of a human body? ________2. What color is features? used to call attention to your body ________3. The color which best suggests activity, energy, and gaiety. ________4. The color which is produced when yellow and violet color pigments mixed in equal amount. ________5. The family name of a color. ________6. What refers to the brightness or dullness of a color? _______ 7. The color harmony produced when two colors are opposite each other on the color wheel. ________8. What makes red, yellow, and blue in a color scheme? ________9. What group of color is formed when red, yellow, and orange are placed in a group? _______10. What type of fabric makes you look larger because it adds width and size to the apparent size of your figure? D. Matching Type Directions. Match the descriptions given in (Column A) with the types of lines given in Column B. Write the letter of your answer in your quiz notebook. Column A(Descriptions) Column B (Types of Lines) 1. Feminine 2. Masculine a. Curved b. Vertical 9 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Short and/wide 4. Tall and/slender 5. Tall or short depending on the angle. c. Straight d. Diagonal e. Horizontal F. Broken Line E. Identification. Directions. Name the following illustrations of skirts drawn below. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. 2. 3. 4. 10 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 6. 5. 7. F. Identify the body measurements of a skirt 1. 2. . 3. 11 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Personal Entrepreneurial Competencies (PECs) Content Standards The learner understanding of Dressmaking. Performance Standards demonstrates The learner independently creates a one‟s PECs in plan of action that strengthens and or further develops his/her PECs in Dressmaking. Quarter I Time Allotment: 4 hours Module 1 Personal Entrepreneurial Competencies Introduction In this module, you will learn more about entrepreneurship and the entrepreneurial competencies related to Dressmaking. You will have a firsthand experience in educational activities leading to personal assessment of your entrepreneurial competencies and assessment of entrepreneurial competencies of a successful dressmaker in your community. You will also have some activities that will align your competencies with those of a successful practitioners. Moreover, this module will stimulate your mind to think about entrepreneurship, its role in the business community as well as in its economic and social development. Let us know and understand what entrepreneurs and entrepreneurship are. Entrepreneurs are people with skills and capabilities who see and evaluate business opportunities. They are individuals that can strategically identify products or services needed by the community and they have the capacity to deliver these at the right time and at the right place. Entrepreneurs are agents of economic change; They organize, manage and assume risks of a business. Some of the good qualities of an entrepreneur are opportunity seeker, risk taker, goal setter, excellent planner, a confident problem solver, hardworking, persistent, and a committed worker. Entrepreneurship, on the other hand, is not just a simple business activity. It is a strategic process of innovation and new venture creation. Basically, entrepreneurship is both an art and science of converting business ideas into marketable products or services to improve the quality of living. Now that you have a little background knowledge about entrepreneurs and entrepreneurship, can you now walk through in assessing your PECs? 12 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Always remember that successful entrepreneurs continuously develop and improve their PECs. Let us first try to find out the competencies to be mastered at the end of this module. OBJECTIVES At the end of this module, you are expected to: Identify areas for improvement, development and growth; Align your PECs according to your business or career choice; and Create a plan of action that ensures success in your business or career choice. Now that you have an idea about the enabling knowledge and skill that you will develop and master, take the first challenge in this module – the pre-assessment. PRE-ASSESSMENT As part of your activity, you will be challenged to go deeper on the knowledge and previous experiences on the topic. Try to assess what you already know about PECs by answering Task 1. Task 1: Matching Type Direction: Match the entrepreneurial competencies in column A with their meaning in column B. Write the letter of the correct answer on the space provided before each number. A ____1. Creative A. ____2. Profit-oriented ____3. Discipline ____4. Decision Making ____5. People Skill B. C. D. E. ____6. Planner ____7. Self-confidence ____8. Hardworking ____9. Ability to accept change ____10. Committed F. G. H. I. J K. B make a wise decision towards the set objectives strategic thinking and setting of goals trust in one‟s ability adoptable to change innovative to have edge over other competitors solid dedication skillful in record keeping always stick to the plan working diligently effective and efficient communication and relation to people always looking for income 13 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Task 2: Guide Questions Directions: The following are guide questions which summarize the entire module. Write your answers on your assignment notebook, then share these to the class. A. Why are entrepreneurial activities important to social development and progress of the economy? B. What entrepreneurial activities do you know and capable of doing which are related to dressmaking? C. Given the opportunity to own a business that relates with dressmaking, are you confident to manage it? Explain your answer. D. What do you think are the most important competencies must you possess to be successful in running your chosen business? E. Name successful entrepreneurs from your community whose business is related to dressmaking. Be able to share to the class their PECs that made them successful. After answering all the guide questions to the best of your knowledge and skills, share them with your classmates. Compare your insights, personal knowledge, and relevant experiences on the topic to make it more exciting and engaging. LEARNING GOALS AND TARGET Having gone through pre-assessment, and answering the guide questions, set your own personal goals. These goals will further achieve the ultimate objective of this module and motivate you to learn more about PECs. Goals and Targets Learning Activities Ultimate Goal Figure 1: Strategic process to achieve the objectives of this module 14 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ READING RESOURCES AND INSTRUCTIONAL ACTIVITIES After setting your own personal goals and targets in achieving the objectives of this module, check your inherent knowledge of PECs. Answer the following guide questions with your classmates. Task 3: Group Activity Direction: Answer the following guide questions on a separate sheet of paper. Share your answers to the class. 1. Explain the importance of assessing one‟s PECs before engaging in a particular entrepreneurial activity. _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _____________________. 2. Are there other strategies or approaches where you can assess your PECs? Explain how those strategies will become useful in selecting a viable business venture. _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _____________________. 3. What are the desirable personal characteristics, attributes, lifestyles, skills and traits of a prospective entrepreneur? Why are these important? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _____________________. 4. Why is there a need to assess one‟s PECs in terms of characteristics, attributes, lifestyles, skills, and traits before starting a particular business? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _____________________. 15 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5. What is the significance of evaluating PECs as a successful entrepreneur? What helpful insights can you draw from this activity? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________. How was your experience in answering the guide questions with your classmates? Were you able to benefit from them? What insights have you learned? There are different topics that will enrich your knowledge of PECs. Read carefully the important details about the succeeding topic. Know Assessment of Personal Entrepreneurial Competencies (PECs) and Skills visà-vis a Practicing Entrepreneur or Employee in a Province Entrepreneurial Competencies refer to the important characteristics that should be possessed by an individual in order to perform entrepreneurial functions effectively. You will learn some of the most important characteristics, attributes, lifestyle, skills and traits of a successful entrepreneur. Below are characteristics/traits/attributes of a good entrepreneur: Hardworking: This means habitually working diligently for a long period of time. Hardworking people keep on improving their performance to produce good products and/or provide good services. Self-confidence: Entrepreneurs have confidence in one‟s ability and own judgment. They exhibit self-confidence in order to cope with all the risks of operating their own business. Discipline: Successful entrepreneurs always stick on the plan and fight the temptation to do what is unimportant. 16 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Committed: A good entrepreneur accepts full responsibility of everything in his/her business. He/she gives full commitment and solid dedication to make the business successful. Ability to accept change: Nothing is permanent but change. Change occurs frequently. When you own a business, you should cope-up and thrive on changes. Capitalize on positive changes to make your business grow. Creative: An entrepreneur should be creative and innovative to stay in the business and in order to have an edge over the other competitors. Has the Initiative: An entrepreneur takes the initiative. You must put yourself in a position where you are responsible for the failure or success of your business. Profit-Oriented: An entrepreneur enters into the world of business to generate profit or additional income. This shall become the bread and butter for you and for your family as well. Therefore, you must see to it that the business can generate income. Listed below are the important skills of a successful entrepreneur: Planner: Planning is strategic thinking and setting of goals to achieve objectives by carefully maximizing all the available resources. A good entrepreneur develops and applies step-by-step plans to realize goals. A good entrepreneur knows that planning is an effective skill only when combined with action. People Skills: It‟s a very important skill in order to be successful in any kind of business. People skills refer to effective and efficient communication and relation to people working in and out of your business. In day-to-day business transactions, you need to deal with people. A well-developed people skill can spell out the difference between success and failure of the business. Decision Making: Successful entrepreneurs have the ability to think quickly and to make a wise decision towards pre-determined set objectives. No one can deny that the ability to make wise decisions is an important skill that an entrepreneur should possess. Sound decision should spring out from given facts and information and should be towards the pre-determined objectives. 17 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Process In order to firm up what you have learned and to have a better appreciation of the different entrepreneurial competencies, read the PECs checklist presented below, then answer the same. Task 4: PECs Checklist Directions: Using the PECs checklist, assess yourself by indicating a check (/) marking either strengths or development areas column. Interpret the results by counting the total number of check marks in each of the columns. After accomplishing the checklist, form a group and share your insights and experiences why you come up with that personal assessment. Table 1: PECs Checklist Personal Assessment in terms of: Personal Entrepreneurial Competencies of an Entrepreneur Hardworking - Working diligently Self-confidence - Confidence in one‟s ability Discipline - Always stick to the plan Committed - Solid dedication Ability to accept changes - Adoptable to change Creative - Innovative to have edge over other competitors Profit-oriented - Always looking for income Planner - Strategic thinking and setting of goals People Skill 18 Strengths Development Areas LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ - effective and efficient communication and relation to people Decision Making - make a wise decision towards the set objectives TOTAL Interpretation or Insights: ___________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________. Reflect and Understand How was your experience in discovering your strengths and the areas to be developed? Did you gain valuable experience in exchanging insights with your classmates? To learn more and deepen your understanding of PECs, do the Task 5 below. Task 5: Interview Interview successful dressmaker entrepreneurs in your province whose type of business is related with Dressmaking. Focus your interview on PECs and other business-related attributes that helped them become successful. Analyze the result of the interview and reflect on the similarities and/or differences. Write your answer on a separate sheet of paper. Sample Interview Guide Name of Proprietor/Practitioner: ____________________________________ Age: _______________Number of Years in Business: __________________ Business Name: ________________________________________________ Business Address:______________________________________________ 19 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 1. What are your preparations before you engaged in this type of business or job? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ 2. What are your special skills and characteristics that are related with your business or job? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ 3. How did you solve business-related problems during the early years of your business operation? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ 4. Did you follow the tips from a successful businessman or practitioner before you engage in your business? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ 5. What are your best business practices that you can share with aspiring students? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ 6. What are the salient characteristics, attributes, lifestyle, skills and traits that made you successful in your business or job? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ Note: Cull the needed information from the interview to supply answer/s to Row 1 in the table below. Meanwhile, fill out the second row with your PECs. Be honest in answering. 20 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Personal Entrepreneurial Competencies Characteristic s Attributes Lifestyle s Skills Traits Successful Entrepreneur in the province My PECs Using the information on the table above, analyze and reflect on the similarities and differences in your answers. Put your reflection on the table below. Write your conclusion on the space provided. Personal Entrepreneurial Competencies Similarities Differences Characteristics Attributes Lifestyles Skills Traits Conclusion: _________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________. 21 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Transfer After performing the activities on the importance of PECs, let‟s determine how much you have learned. Perform Task 6 to determine how well you have understood the lesson. Task 6: Preparation of a Plan of Action Directions: Using the table below and the information generated from Task 5 (Interview), prepare an action plan that indicates how you would align your PECs to the PECs of a successful entrepreneur dressmaker in your province. Objective To align my PECs with the PECs of a successful entrepreneur in Dressmaking. Area Activities Strategies Time Frame Expected Outcome Characteristics Skills Attribute Traits Task 7: Essential Questions Directions: Read and study the following questions below. You may use a separate sheet of paper or your notebook to write your answers. 1. Why is there a need to compare and align one‟s PECs with the PECs of a successful entrepreneur? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ 22 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ __________________________________________. 2. How does your action plan help sustain your strong PECs and/or address your development areas? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ________________________________________. 3. What plan of action would you do to address your development areas? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ________________________________________. ENVIRONMENT AND MARKET(EM) Content Standards Performance Standards The learner demonstrates understanding of environment and market in Dressmaking in one‟s Province. The learner independently creates a business vicinity map reflective of potential market in Dressmaking in a province. Quarter I Time Allotment: 4 hours Module 2 Environment and Market Introduction People who aspire to start a business need to explore the economic, cultural and social conditions prevailing in an area. Needs and wants of the people in a certain area that are not met may be considered as business opportunities. Identifying the needs of the community, its resources, available raw materials, skills, and appropriate technology can help a new entrepreneur in seizing a business opportunity. 23 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ To be successful in any kind of business venture, potential entrepreneurs should always look closely at the environment and market. They should always be watchful on the existing opportunities and constraints. The opportunities in the business environment are those factors that provide possibilities for a business to expand and make more profits. Constraints, on the other hand, are those factors that limit the business to grow, hence reduces the chance of generating profit. One of the best ways to evaluate the opportunities and constraints is to conduct SWOT (Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats) Analysis. SWOT Analysis is a managerial tool to assess the environment. This gathers important information which in turn is used in strategic planning. Strengths and weaknesses are internal in an organization. Basically, they relate to resources owned by organization, things that you have control over and as well as to the extent of its marketing. Opportunities and threats exist in the external environment. Opportunities relate to the market, to the development of new technologies, and external factors such as government policies, climate, and trends. Threats relate to what the competition is doing as well as legal and other constraints. Now that you have read some important considerations to look into to be successful in any business, you are now ready to explore more about the environment and market. To begin with, let‟s find out the competencies that you will master as you finish this module. OBJECTIVES At the end of this module, you are expected to: identify what is of “value” to the customer; identify the customer to sell to; explain what makes a product unique and competitive; apply creativity and innovative techniques to develop marketable product; and employ a unique selling proposition (USP) to the product and/or service. Now that you have an idea about the things you will learn, take the first challenge in this module – the pre-assessment. 24 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ PRE-ASSESSMENT Task 1: Multiple-Choice Directions: Choose the letter of the best answer. Write your answer on a separate sheet of paper. 1. This is generated by examining the goods and services sold in the community. A. business creation C. business concept B. business pricing D. business idea 2. A process of making a new product to be sold to the customers. A. product analysis C. product development B. product conceptualization D. product implementation 3. These are luxuries, advantages and desires that every individual considers beyond necessary. A. wants C. requirements B. desires D. needs 4. This is the factor or consideration presented by a seller as the reason that one product or service is different from and better than that of the competition. A. unique selling plan C. unique pricing policy B. unique selling proposition D. finding value-added 5. In this stage, the needs of the target market are identified, reviewed and evaluated. A. concept development C. project development B. economic analysis D. refine specification 6. This is the introduction of new ideas to make the product and services more attractive and saleable to the target customers. A. new idea C. product development B. creativity D. innovation 7. A managerial tool used to assess the environment and to gather important information that can be used for strategic planning. A. environmental scanning C. WOTS Analysis B. SWOT Analysis D. survey analysis 8. A marketing practice of creating name, symbol or designs that identifies and differentiate a product from the other products. A. product naming C. branding B. unique selling proposition D. tagline 25 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 9. This is a meaningful and unforgettable statement that captures the essence of the brand. A. product naming C. branding B. unique selling proposition D. tagline 10. These are the things that people cannot live without. A. wants C. requirements B. desires D. needs Task 2: Guide Questions: Directions: Read and study the guide questions below. Use a separate sheet of paper to write your answer. 1. How does one determine the product or services to be produced andor to be offered or delivered to the target customers? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________ 2. How does one select an entrepreneurial activity? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ 3. When can one say that a certain product has a “value”? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ 4. Is innovation and creativity to your product or services important? Why? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________ 5. How can one effectively respond to the needs of the target customer? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________ 6. Express from the viewpoint of business owner the importance of scanning the environment and market in generating business ideas. _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ 26 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 7. Using self-assessment, explain your level of confidence in formulating a business idea. _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ After all the guide questions have been answered and skills have been mastered, share those with your classmates. Discuss your insights, personal knowledge of, and relevant experiences on the topic to make it more exciting and engaging. LEARNING GOALS AND TARGET After reading and understanding the objectives of this module and having gone through the pre-assessment and guide questions, you will be asked to set your own personal goals. These goals will trigger you to further achieve the ultimate objective of this module. In the end, these goals will motivate you to learn more about Environment and Market. Goals and Targets Learning Activities Ultimate Goal Figure 2: Strategic process to reach the objectives of this module READING RESOURCES AND INSTRUCTIONAL ACTIVITIES After setting your own personal goals and targets in achieving the objectives of this module, you will have the opportunity to read and learn more about environment and market. You will also be given a chance to do practical exercises and activities to deepen your understanding of the topic. Know Product Development When we talk of product development, we are referring to a process of making a new product to be sold by a business or enterprise to its customers. The product development may involve modification of an existing product or its presentation, or formulation of an entirely new product that satisfies a newly defined customer‟s needs, wants and/or a market place. The term development in this module refers collectively to the entire process of identifying a market opportunity, creating a product to appeal to the 27 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ identified market, and finally, testing, modifying and refining the product until it becomes ready for production. There are basic, yet vital questions that you can ask yourself about product development. When you find acceptable answers to these, you may now say that you are ready to develop a product and/or render services: 1. 2. 3. For whom are the product services aimed at? What benefit will the customers expect from it? How will the product differ from the existing brand? From its competitor? Likewise, needs and wants of the people within an area should also be taken into big consideration. Everyone has his/her own needs and wants. However, everyone has different concepts of needs and wants. Needs in business are important things that every individual cannot live without in a society. These include: 1. 2. 3. 4. basic commodities for consumption; clothing and other personal belongings; shelter, sanitation and health; and education. Basic needs are essential to an individual to live with dignity and pride in a community. These needs can obviously help you generate business ideas and subsequently to product development. Wants are desires, luxury and extravagance that signify wealth and expensive way of living. Wants or desires are considered above all the basic necessities of life. Some examples of wants or desires: fashion accessories, expensive shoes and clothes, travelling around the world, eating in an expensive restaurant; watching movies, concerts, having luxurious cars, wearing expensive jewelries, perfume, living in impressive homes, among others. Needs and wants of people are the basic indicators of the kind of business that you may engage into because it can serve as the measure of your success. Some other good points that might be considered in business undertakings are the kind of people, their needs, wants, lifestyle, culture and tradition, and social orientation that they belong to. To summarize, product development entirely depends on the needs and wants of the customers. Another important issue to deal with is the key concepts of developing a product. The succeeding topic shall enlighten you about the procedure in coming up with a product. 28 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Concepts of Developing a Product Concept development is a critical phase in the development of a product. In this stage, the needs of the target market are identified and competitive products are reviewed before the product specifications are defined. The product concept is selected along with an economic analysis to come up with an outline of how a product is being developed. Below is a figure that shows the stages of concept development of a product. Identify Customer Needs Establish Target Specifications Generate Product Concepts Select a Product Concept Perform Economic Analysis Analyze Competitive Products Refine Specifications Plan Remaining Developme nt Project Concept Development Figure 3: Concept Development The process of product development follows the following steps: A. Identify Customer Needs: Using survey forms, interviews, researches, focus group discussions, and observations, an entrepreneur can easily identify customers‟ needs and wants .In this stage, the information that can be possibly gathered here are product specifications (performance, taste, size, color, shape, life span of the product, etc.). This stage is very important because this would determine the product to be produced or provided. 29 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ B. Establish Target Specifications: Based on customers' needs and reviews of competitive products, you may now establish target specifications of the prospective new product and/or services. Target specifications are essentially a wish-list. C. Analyze Competitive Products: It is imperative to analyze existing competitive products to provide important information in establishing product or services specifications. Other products may exhibit successful design attributes that should be emulated or improved upon in the new product or services. D. Generate Product Concepts: After having gone through with the previous processes, you may now develop a number of product concepts to illustrate what types of product or services are both technically feasible and would best meet the requirements of the target specifications. E. Select a Product Concept: Through the process of evaluation between attributes, a final concept is selected. After the final selection, additional market research can be applied to obtain feedback from certain key customers. F. Refine Product Specifications: In this stage, product or services specifications are refined on the basis of input from the foregoing activities. Final specifications are the result of extensive study, expected service life, projected selling price and among others are being considered in this stage. G. Perform Economic Analysis: Throughout the process of product development, it is very important to always review and estimate the economic implications regarding development expenses, manufacturing costs, and selling price of the product or services to be offered or provided. H. Plan the Remaining Development Project: In this final stage of concept development, you may prepare a detailed development plan which includes list of activities, the necessary resources and expenses, and development schedule with milestones for tracking progress. Finding Value People buy for a reason. There should be something in your product or service that would give consumers a good reason to go back and buy for more. There must be something that has to make you the best option for your target customers; otherwise they have no reason to buy what you‟re selling. This implies further, that you offer something to your customers that they will make them value or treasure your product or service. 30 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ The value that you incorporate to your product is called value proposition. Value proposition is “a believable collection of the most persuasive reasons people should notice you and take the action you‟re asking for.”Value is created by fulfilling deep desires and solving deep problems. This is what gets people moving, what gets people spending for your product or service. Innovation Innovation is the introduction of something new in your product or service. This may be a new idea, a new method or a device. If you want to increase your sales and profit, you must innovate. Some of the possible innovations in your products are change of packaging, improve taste, color, size, shape and perhaps price. Some of the possible innovations in providing services are application of new improved methods, additional featured services and possibly freebees. Unique Selling Proposition (USP) Unique Selling Proposition is the factor or consideration presented by a seller as the reason that one product or service is different from and better than that of the competition. Before you can begin to sell your product or service to your target customers, you have to sell yourself on it. This is especially important when your product or service is similar to those around you. USP would require careful analysis of other businesses' ads and marketing messages. If you analyze what they say or what they sell, not just their product or service characteristics, you can learn a great deal about how companies distinguish themselves from competitors. Here's how to discover your USP and use it to increase your sales and profit: Use empathy: Put yourself in the shoes of your customers. Always focus on the needs of the target customers and forget falling in love with your own product or service. Always remember, you are making this product or providing for the target customers to eventually increase sales and earn profit and not making this product or service for you. Essential question such as what could make them come back again and ignore competition, should be asked to oneself. Most possible answers may be focused on quality, availability, convenience, cleanliness, and reliability of the product or service. Identify what motivates your customers. It is very important for you to understand and find out what drives and motivates your customers to buy your product or service. Make some efforts to find out, analyze and 31 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ utilize the information what motivates the customers in their decisions to purchase the product or service. Discover the actual and genuine reasons why customers buy your product instead of a competitor's. Information is very important in decision making. A competitive entrepreneur always improve their products or services to provide satisfaction and of course retention of customers. As your business grows, you should always consider the process of asking your customers important information and questions that you can use to improve your product or service. Process In order to firm up your understanding of the topic previously presented, you will be tasked to form a group and conduct an interview with a successful entrepreneur or practitioner. You have to document this interview and present this to the whole class for reflection and appreciation. Task 3: Interview Directions: Selecta successful entrepreneur or practitioner. Conduct an interview using the set of questions below. Document the interview and present this to the class. 1. How did you identify your customers? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ 2. What were your considerations in selecting your customers? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ 3. Explain how your product or service become unique to other products. _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ 4. Did you consult somebody before you engage in this business? Cite sample insights that you gained from the consultation. 32 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ 5. What were your preparations before you started the actual business? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________ 6. What creative and innovative techniques you adopted to your product or service? What was the effect of the innovative techniques to the sales and profits of your business? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________ 7. What strategy did you consider to have a unique selling proposition to your product or service? _________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ Reflect and Understand Task 4: Video Viewing In order to deepen your understanding of the lesson, perform the following tasks: 1. Browse the internet and view the topics related to: a. customers‟ needs and wants b. techniques in identifying customers‟ needs and wants c. creativity or innovations in products and services d. unique selling proposition e. product development 2. Prepare a short narrative report about the aforementioned topics. You may highlight the “aspect” that intensifies your knowledge of product development. 33 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Transfer Task 5: Product Conceptualization Direction: Using the space and figures below, develop your own concept for your product or service. Utilize bullets in every stage of product conceptualization in listing important key ideas. ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ 1. Identify Customers Need 7. Prepare a Development Plan 2. Target Specifications - - - - - - - 6. Refine Product Specification - - - - - - - - - - - 3. Analyze a Competitive Product - - 5. Select A product Concept 4. Generate Product Concept - - - - - - - - - - - 34 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Know Generating Ideas for Business The process of developing and generating business idea is not a simple process. Some people just come up to a bunch of business ideas but are not really feasible. There are two problems that arise; first is the excessive generation of ideas that can forever remain dreaming stage and the second is when they don‟t have ideas and don‟t want to become entrepreneurs. The most optimal way is to have a systematic approach in generating and selecting business idea that will be transferred in real business. Here are some basic yet very important considerations that may be used to generate possible ideas for business: 1. Examine existing goods and services. Are you satisfied with the product? What do other people who use the product say about it? How can it be improved? There are many ways of improving a product from the way it is made to the way it is packed and sold. You can also improve the materials used in crafting the product. In addition, you can introduce new ways of using the product, making it more useful and adaptable to the customers‟ many needs. When you are improving the product or enhancing it, you are doing an innovation. You can also do an invention by introducing an entirely new product to replace the old one. Business ideas may also be generated by examining what goods and services are sold outside by the community. Very often, these products are sold in a form that can still be enhanced or improved. 2. Examine the present and future needs. Look and listen to what the customers, institutions, and communities are missing in terms of goods and services. Sometimes, these needs are already obvious and felt at the moment. Other needs are not that obvious because they can only be felt in the future, in the event of certain developments in the community. For example, a province will have its electrification facility in the next six months. Only by that time will the entrepreneur could think of electricallypowered or generated business such as photo copier, computer service, digital printing, etc. 3. Examine how the needs are being satisfied. Needs for the products and services are referred to as market demand. To satisfy these needs is to supply the products and services that meet the demands of the market. 35 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ The term market refers to whoever will use or buy the products or services, and these may be people or institutions such as other businesses, establishments, organizations, or government agencies. There is a very good business opportunity when there is absolutely no supply to a pressing market demand. Businesses or industries in the locality also have needs for goods and services. Their needs for raw materials, maintenance, and other services such as selling and distribution are good sources of ideas for business. 4. Examine the available resources around you. Observe what materials or skills are available in abundance in your area. A business can be started out of available raw materials by selling them in raw form and by processing and manufacturing them into finished products. For example, in a copra-producing town, there will be many coconut husks and shells available as “waste” products. These can be collected and made into coco rags or doormat and charcoal bricks and sold profitably outside the community. A group of people in your neighborhood may have some special skills that can be harnessed for business. For example, women in the Mountain Province possess loom weaving skills that have been passed on from one generation to another. Some communities there set up weaving businesses to produce blankets, decorative and various souvenir items for sale to tourists and lowland communities. Business ideas can come from your own skills. The work and experience you may have in agricultural arts, industrial arts, home economics, and ICT classes will provide you with business opportunities to acquire the needed skills which will earn you extra income, and should you decide to engage in income-generating activities. With your skills, you may also tinker with various things in your spare time. Many products were invented this way. 5. Read magazines, news articles, and other publications on new products and techniques or advances in technology. You can pick up new business ideas from Newsweek, Reader‟s Digest, Business Magazines, “Go Negosyo”, KAB materials, and Small-Industry Journal. The Internet also serves as a library where you may browse and surf on possible businesses. It will also guide you on how to put the right product in the right place, at the right price, at the right time. 36 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Key Concepts of Selecting a Business Idea Once you have embarked on identifying business opportunities, you will eventually see that there are many possibilities that are available for you. It is very improbable that you will have enough resources to pursue all of them at once. You have to select the most promising one among hundreds of ideas. It will be good to do this in stages. In the first stage, you screen your ideas to narrow them down to about few choices. In the next stage, trim down the choices to two options. In the final stage, choose between the two and decide which business idea is worth pursuing. In screening your ideas, examine each one in terms of the following factors: 1. How much capital is needed to put up the business? 2. How big is the demand for the product? Do many people need this product and will continue to need it for a long time? 3. How is the demand met? Who are processing the products to meet the needs (competition or demand)? How much of the need is now being met (supply)? 4. Do you have the background and experiences needed to run this particular business? 5. Will the business be legal, not going against any existing or foreseeable government regulation? 6. Is the business in line with your interest and expertise? Your answers to these questions will be helpful in screening which ones among your many ideas are worth examining further and worth pursuing. Branding Branding is a marketing practice of creating name, symbol or designs that identifies and differentiates product or services from the rest. It is also a promise to your customers. It tells them what they can expect from your product or service and it differentiates your offerings from other competitors. Your brand is derived from who you are, who you want to be and what people perceive you to be. Branding is one of the most important aspects of any business. An effective brand strategy gives you a major edge in increasingly competitive markets. 37 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ The features of a good product brand are as follows: - Delivers the message clearly - Confirms your credibility - Connects your target prospects emotionally - Motivates the buyer - Concretizes user loyalty Here are some simple tips to publicize your brand: . Develop a tagline. Write a meaningful, unforgettable, and easy to remember statement that captures the essence of your brand. Get a great logo. Create a logo suitable to your business and consistent with your tagline and place it everywhere. Write down your brand messaging. Select key messages you want to communicate about your brand. Be true to your brand. Deliver your brand promise. Be consistent. Be reliable and consistent every time. Process In generating business idea, you should first identify what type of business is suited to your business idea. You should analyze and scan the potential environment, study the marketing practices and strategies of your competitors, analyze the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and the threats in your environment to ensure that the products or services you are planning to offer will be patronized within the easy reach by your target consumers. Bear in mind these simple rules for successful SWOT Analysis: Be realistic about the strengths and weaknesses of your business when conducting SWOT Analysis. SWOT Analysis should distinguish between where your business is today, and where it could be in the future. SWOT Analysis should always be specific. Avoid any grey areas. Always apply SWOT Analysis in relation to your competition‟ i.e. better than or worse than your competition‟. 38 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Keep your SWOT Analysis short and simple. Avoid complexity and over analysis. SWOT Analysis is subjective. Task 6: SWOT Analysis Directions: Utilize the SWOT Analysis table below to list up all your observations. Be guided by the strategies in analyzing and formulating realistic and attainable activities. Write down the activities on the available spaces provided to create the best business idea. Strength (S) Weaknesses (W) - Opportunities (O) Threats (T) - - Strategies: SW-Maximize on the strengths to overcome the internal weakness. OW- Capitalize on the opportunities to eliminate the internal weakness. ST - Maximize on your strengths to eliminate the external threats. OT - Take advantage of the available opportunities to eliminate the external threats. Analysis: ___________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________________ 39 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Activities: ___________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________________ My Best Business Idea: ___________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________________ Reflect and Understand In order to deepen your understanding of the topics previously discussed, you will be asked to perform the following activities: Task 7: Extra Readings and Video Viewing Reading books and watching videos have been considered as one of the most effective educational activities that can help learners deepen their understanding on a certain topic. In this particular task, you will be asked to conduct extra readings and video viewings in the Internet on the following topics: A. B. C. D. Steps in selecting business idea Criteria of a viable business idea Benefits of a good brand Ways on developing a brand After successfully performing the assigned task, make a narrative report about it and share it to the class. 40 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Transfer Task 9: Making My Own Logo Directions: Generate a clear and appealing product brand with a logo and a tagline. Logo Logo ________________________ Tagline 41 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ QUARTER I Overview In this quarter, you will learn how dressmaking becomes a sustainable source of living for the people. The evolution in fashion trends gradually change from time to time. People‟s desire to own stunning and tremendous outfit began since the beginning. It seems an elusive dream for deprived individuals with economic predicament but an everyday fashion to affluent persons. This longing for attractive and fashionable outfit remains unvaried to everyone though season and mode of fashion change from time to time. Progression in clothing closely associated with social, economical and technological aspect and it is happening to everyone all over the world. One is longing to look at his/her best especially in proper grooming and personality development. A pretty lady wearing a lousy dress is not as smart as an ordinary woman wearing well-fitted outfit confidently walking down the street. A man wearing lousy jeans will not be attractive as the man with wellfitted casual wear speaking in a meeting. To have a well-fitted outfit contribute a lot in the personality of the wearer thus, it will make him/her more comfortable and more confident. Do you want to have your own? Do you wish to create and produce garment made and sewn by yours? If you are not well equipped with the knowledge on how to do it, this is your chance to practice making it. Study the techniques and processes in performing every step in doing it and later, you will be proud of what have you done, a quality and a well-fitted garment that will suit you and will make you more appealing than ever. General Objectives At the end of this quarter, learners are expected to: 1. perform how to draft and cut pattern for a skirt; 2. prepare and cut materials for a skirt; 3. demonstrate how to assemble the garment parts; and 4. apply finishing touches on a skirt. 42 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Let’s See What You Know Pre – Test 1 A. Multiple Choice Directions: Read the statements carefully. Write the letter that best describes the statement. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. The principle of design which connotes feeling of rest or equilibrium. a. Balance c. Rhythm b. Proportion d. Emphasis 2. A slender girl wearing big, bulky bag seemed to be over-balanced. What principle of design is emphasized? a. Formal balance c. Vertical balance b. Informal balance d. Horizontal balance 3. Hips and legs of a lady where full, gathered skirt is best suited for. a. Narrow hips c. Thin legs and feet b. Large hips d. Heavy legs and ankle 4. Waistline of a woman where wide belts, broad collars and fullness in blouse is good. a. Short waist c. Prominent abdomen b. Thick waistline d. Long waist 5. Low V-neckline, collarless coats, narrow, flat and pointed collars are best outfit for an individual who has a a. Round shoulders c. Long, thin face b. Short, plump neck d. Long, thin neck 6. The design which refers to the surface enrichment of structural design. a. Structural design c. Decorative design b. Design d. Art 7. It is formed when three colors are in equal distance apart on the color wheel. a. Complementary c. Split complementary b. Triad harmony d. Double split complementary 8. A sturdy cotton twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. a. Denim c. Poplin b. Linen d. Cotton gabardine 9. It is a style of skirt that is made by taking the width of the darts from each side seam and making the panel look like pleated strips. a. Straight skirt c. Gored skirt b. Pleated skirt d. Gathered skirt 10. Body measurements which are taken from side to side in left-to-right direction. a. Horizontal c. Vertical b. Circumferential d. Diagonal 43 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 11. It is taken around certain parts of the body such as bust line, waist line, hip line, armhole, and the like. a. Horizontal c. Vertical b. Circumferential d. Diagonal 12. When the tape measure runs from the waistline level down to the skirt length desired. a. Waistline c. Lower hip level b. Lower hip d. Skirt length 13. A kind of pattern which contains exact body measurements and reflects no definite style. a. Pattern c. Foundation pattern b. Style pattern d. Envelope pattern 14. The fabric fold wherein the fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with selvages together. a. Lengthwise centerfold c. Crosswise centerfold b. Off-center lengthwise fold d. Off-center crosswise fold 15. The label which indicates the brand name or brand logo of company where the garment comes from. a. Brand or main label c. Size label b. Care label d. Flag label 16. The label which includes wash care and ironing instructions and is attached at side seam of the garment. a. Manufacturer label c. Flag label b. Care label d. Brand or main label 17. The label which has specific measurements of human body such as S for small, M for medium, L for large, etc. a. Brand or main label c. size label b. Flag label d. Manufacturer label 18. These are used on parts of the garments subject to strain such as collars, cuffs or sleeves, belts, waistbands, and pants. a. Hooks and eyes c. Zipper b. Buttons d. Snaps 19. The sequencing for the unit method of construction of the different parts of the skirt is the same for all types of skirts. a. True c. False b. not suited for all d. for a particular skirt line only 20. In cutting the front and back skirt on the sewing line, a. Include the zipper allowance of the back skirt. b. Do not include the zipper allowance of the back skirt. c. Leave it as is. d. Cut the allowance and remove it 44 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ B. SEQUENCING Directions. Arrange the steps in attaching or connecting the waistband of a basic straight skirt. Write the number in your quiz notebook. __________1. Pin one side of the interfacing (stiffener) throughout the waistband from end to end, touching the sewing line of one side of the waistband. __________2. Hand baste this for easy machine sewing. Later on, if you master this technique, you can do machine sewing them directly without hand basting. Remove the pins. __________3. Fold up the waistband where the interfacing is connected and with a pencil or tailor‟s chalk, re-line the sewing line. __________4. Fold up the allowance on both ends of the waistband by pinning them. __________5. Machine sew this together 1/8 of an inch (0.3 cm.) away from the sewing line of the skirt. __________6. Starting from the overlap side of the skirt (the left hand side of the skirt), pin the waist band without the interfacing (stiffener) attachment, leaving a ½ of an inch (1.3 cm.) allowance on the waistband on the wrong side of the skirt. Pin until you reach the other end of the skirt. __________7. Fold the center of the waistband as seen in the illustration. Adjust the pins to hold together the other flap of the waistband. Machine sew to close the ends of the waistband. Lock stitch both ends. __________8. Open the zipper of the skirt, then reverse the skirt to its wrong side where you will connect the waistband. __________9. Reverse the fold by pushing the corners in with your index finger. To get a sharp corner, after reversing, gently push the corner withh trhe sharp point of your scissors. __________10. Machine sew together the waistband and the skirt. 45 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ LESSON 1 Learning Outcome 1 PRODUCE LADIES’ SKIRT Draft and Cut Pattern for Ladies’ Skirt Objectives At the end of this quarter, learners are expected to: 1. draft and cut pattern for a skirt; 2. prepare and cut materials for a skirt; 3. assemble the garment parts; and 4. apply finishing touches on a skirt. Principles and Elements of Design To create. recognize, or criticize design or any object of art, one must understand the basic principles of design as well as its elements.To achieve effectively what is pleasing not just to the eyes of the beholder but brings confidence and grace to our personality, the use of principles and elements of design is alligned to the dresses we must be wearing. Understanding better the principles and elements of design is a great factor that will contribute a lot to our personality development. Art and design is the application of skill and taste that make a thing beautiful. It is a fact that our clothes are worn for their artistic qualities which make us more attractive and confident. Clothes are worn to emphasize the good points and hide the defects or imperfection of our physical trait. Principles of Design Good outfit should have proportion, balance, harmony, emphasis and rhythm to express art principles. The law of area states that the division should be ½ and 2/3 of an area, and that equality in proportion should always be avoided. 46 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Standard Proportion 1. Proportion in design involves the relationship of one part to another. Uneven space relationships are more interesting than even ones. Pictures showing proper proportion in dress In choosing accessories, proportion should always be considered. For example, a woman with large facial features would not choose a small bag or a small hat which will make her feature even larger, or vice-versa. There should be balance- either formal or bisymmetrical balance. The heavier weight must be placed nearer the center. If there is proportion and balance in a dress, there is a feeling of harmony. There is uniformity and order in the design, there is unity and similarity rather than contrast. 47 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Balance is the feeling of rest and equilibrium. This is essential to the total design of a costume. a. Formal or Symmetrical Balance is achieved when two sides of a design are alike on either side of its vertical center. Balance in the use of color is essential for a pleasing effect. The Law of Areas requires that the large areas of color should be low in intensity. A small area of intense color will balance a large area of dulled color. A very dark value such as black or charcoal gray may be balanced by a small amount of pure white. Medium gray requires a larger area of a pale gray to achieve balance. b. Informal balance or Asymmetrical Balance is achieved by using space, color, and the varying importance of objects to produce a feeling of rest. It is more difficult to achieve than formal balance, but it lends itself to more interesting arrangements. A dress with side draping on the skirt might have a jeweled pin or a flower on the opposite side of the bodice to produce informal balance. c. Radial Balance When major parts of the garment design radiate from the central part of the garment, creating a sunburst. 48 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Harmony is the pleasing combination of hues, values, and intensities. The color wheel is presented so that you will learn the arrangement and relationship of colors to the proper dress that is best for your feature. Given as follows are illustrations of women wearing monochromatic harmony. 4. Emphasis means that one part of a design must be more important than the other parts. The eye should go first to this part. A repetition of line or placement of color is applied to achieved emphasis. A design which is too “busy” loses its point of emphasis and becomes confusing. Good design in dress leads the eye to the most attractive feature of face or figure. 5. Rhythm is the movement of the eye from one part of the design to other parts. Repetition of a line or shape is one of the most common ways of attaining rhythm. In clothing, curved lines tend to be more rhytmic than straight lines because curved repeat the lines of the figure. Rhythm could be depicted through: 49 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ a. RepetitionRhythm could be achieved by repetition or regular recurrence of motifs of design, shapes, buttons, tucks, pleats, laces, edgings, color, textures, fabric designs etc. This can be done with all parts having the same shaped edges. b. Progression- Rhythm is also created by progression or by gradation. Gradation implies a gradual increase or decrease of similar design elements. The gradual changes provide continuity while giving a feeling of movement. Example: Colors can go from light to dark or textures from fine to coarse or vice versa, shapes may range from small to large, and lines may range from thin to thick. c. Transition- Transition is a fluid rhythm created when a curved line leads the eye over an angle. The curved lines of transition cause the eye to change direction gradually rather than abruptly. Transitional lines and shapes sweep and glide over the figure in an undulating rhythm leading the eye gracefully and easily from one area or direction to another. They are found in dropped shoulder designs, puff sleeves and cap sleeves, etc. 50 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ d. Radiation- Rhythm by radiation creates a feeling of movement in different directions. This organized movement originates from a central point of gathers, folds, tucks, darts, pleats and lines. Direction of radiation may be in a similar or one direction, opposing direction or both the directions, several directions and all directions. e. Continuous line movementThis type of rhythm is obtained by flowing lines of trims, bands of color, fabric designs etc, which make the eye move in a continuous line. This movement also unifies the garment design bringing about harmony. In clothing, the best structural design follows the natural body lines. Decorative design gives emphasis to certain areas. Fact is when we attempt to clarify our figure types, we realize that only few has the perfect or in average figure type. The tall, thin girl seemed to be the ideal fashion figure nowadays. But no matter what figure type we may have, the lines of our figure will determine what designs are most appropriate for us. In determining whether or not some new fashion is suitable for you, consider carefully the design of the garment. Do not wear a garment that does not suit your personality. The color must be appropriate to your skin tone as well as to the kind of ocassion. Understand and apply the design properly, In this manner you will confidently be a well-dressed person. Types of Design a. Structural Design are formed by the arrangement of lines, forms, colors, and textures. If these four elements are carefully arranged and applied on the materials used, they will create beauty to the finished garment. . In a garment of solid-colored fabric, its structural design is its silhouette, neckline, placement of the waistline, sleeves, length, and location and fitting of darts and tucks. 51 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Dress with structural design b. Decorative Design refers to the surface enrichments of a structural design . Its decorative design may consist of unusual buttons, a belt buckle, a contrasting collar and cuffs. Dress with decorative design Structural design is far more important than decorative design since every garment has it, while decorative design may or may not be added. Simplicity is the keynote to beauty. In a good design there should be balance, harmony, rhythm, proportion and emphasis. Their elements are line, form, texture, color and shape. Elements of Design FORM LINE SHAPE TEXTURE COLOR 52 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 1. Line The basic part of any design is formed by lines.The eye tends to follow the direction of the line in a dress design or in the fabric of the dress. Lines may be horizontal, vertical, straight, curved, diagonal, radiating, downsweeping, up-sweeping, or angular, and they are capable of creating interesting illusions. a. Horizontal- gives the impression of shorter and heavier. b. Vertical – gives the impression of height. Within the design of a compositon, there are three main groups of lines: lines of repetition which follow each other, contrasting lines which go at opposite angles or in different directions, and transitional lines which modify or soften contrasting lines. A curved line between two opposing lines illustrates a transitional line. Lines of repetition create the closest harmony, whereas contrasting lines create the least harmony, and transitional lines give a qualifying effect which allow opposing lines to be used together with less startling effect. Lines in dress 2. Form Form refers to the shape of an object as determined by line. In costume design the silhouette is the term used to describe form which may repeat, may contrast, or be transitional. When the lines of a dress repeat the form of the body too closely, they produce an uncomfortable , restricting effect. At the other extreme, a silhouette which is completely opposed to the lines of the figure distorts rather than enhances the total design. A design suggests the contours of the body. Dress Forms 53 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Texture The surface quality of a fabric comprises its texture. It appeals strongly to the sense of touch, whether it is coarse, fine, smooth, rough, wrinkled, sleek, glossy, slippery. Textures are affected by weave, finishes, and the nature of the fibers and yarns used in weaving. Textures as well as lines can create illusions, one must choose textures for clothes that will harmonize with the over-all design. Dresses showing different texture Texture affects color. A soft wool will give a quite different effect from the gloss and sheen of the satin in the evening dress. Texture also affects the apparent size of the design. Bulky, rough fabrics tend to increase the size of a design, whereas smooth fabrics decrease it. A rough texture also dulls color, but a shiny, smooth texture intensifies the hue. Textures used together in a design should be harmonious. Some contrast is desirable to add interest, but too great a contrast creates disunity. A velvet skirt worn with a silk crepe blouse combines textures consistent in purpose. The same velvet skirt worn with a cotton seercucker blouse is unthinkable. Pig skin shoes and gloves worn with a woolen suit create a pleasant costume. Patent leather accessories with an embossed cotton summer dress make delightful accents in a harmonious costume. 4. Shape Clothes reveal or disguise the natural body contour or shape. Choosing the right clothing shapes will make the person more flattering. Wide, full shapes clothes will make you look larger while trim, compact dress will make you look smaller. Straight, tubular shapes will make the wearer look taller while fitted clothes will reveal the natural body contours. 54 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Dresses showing shapes Let’s Do it! Elements of Design (Freehand Drawing) Make a template of eight (8) boxes with the same sizes. Sketch or illustrate dresses of latest fashion with prints or designs of the different kinds of lines. Kinds of Lines 1. Horizontal Line 2. Vertical Line 3. Diagonal Line 4. Concave Line 5. Convex Line 6. Zigzag Line 7. Wave Line 8. Spiral Line Rubrics for Art Grade/Stand ard How well directions are followed Neatness Advanced A+ AEvery direction is followed to the fullest extent Completed artwork is exceptiona lly neat Proficient +B- Basic +C- All directions are followed Many directions are followed Some directions are followed Few directions are followed Directions have not been followed Complete d artwork is very neat Complete d artwork is neat, with some parts less neat Complete d artwork is more messy than neat Artwork is incomplet e or extremely messy Artwork is incomplet e 55 In-Progress D F LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Work Habits Expectations Student worked for entire period with superior focus and did not need reminders to stay on task Student has exceeded expectatio ns of his/her ability level Student worked for entire period and did not need reminders to stay on task Student worked most of the period and needed few reminders to stay on task Student worked part of the period and needed several reminders to stay on task Student has fully met expectatio ns of his/her ability level Student has met most expectatio ns of his/her ability level Student has met some expectatio ns of his/her ability level Student did not work much during the period and needed several reminders to stay on task Student has not met few expectatio ns of his/her ability level Student did not work during the period even with several reminders to stay on task Student has not met expectatio ns of his/her ability level Adapted from: www.pinterest.com 5. Color Color is light, and light contains within itself all the sun‟s rays, and when it is broken into wavelengths of light, a sensation is produced, upon the retina of the eye which is called color. The eye responds to color the same as the ear responds to music. One‟s reaction to color are both physiological and psychological. The varying properties of color can, like skillful use of line and proportion, make a large object appear smaller, or a small object seem larger. Some colors bring an object nearer, and others make it seem farther away. Colors affect the emotions that is why sometimes you do not realize what has made you cheerful, subdued or melancholy. Color is a powerful element in our life. It has vibration, light and energy which affects us. Use of Color in Clothes 1. Black, dark tones or deeply grayed colors tend to make the figure appear smaller or slimmer than bright or light colors. 2. A plain color makes the figure look slimmer than a combination of contrasting colors. A two-tone effect broken across the figure makes it look shorter and broader. A lengthwise contrast helps to give an illusion of slenderness. Large prints or plaids may make the figure appear large or heavier. 3. A very small figure should not wear over large designs in prints, plaids, or stripes; the person with a large figure should avoid them as well as a too-dainty design. This type should choose motifs that are moderate and avoid the conspicuous or too sharply designed. 4. Contrast and accent should be done with care. A little accent, perhaps a touch of red on many blue at the throat or shoulder is smarter than a repeated accent. If you have a particular figure problem, such as large bust or hips, place your color contrast in such a way that it draws away the eye and emphasize a good point. 56 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ The simplest harmony is the dominant harmony. It is a harmony of two or more tones of one color or a harmony in which one color pervades such as tints and shades of brown, tints and shades of green. They are found in nature. Analogous harmony is a harmony of two or more colors alike in some ways but different in others. It is based on the contrast in value. Examples are red, red-violet, and violet. A contrasting harmony is a combination of two colors which are different in hue and which require a third color to bring them together. It is the hardest color to combine. Examples are sage-green, cream, rose and black, black or gold, gray-blue, red with black or gold. The Color Wheel Primary Secondary Intermediate Analogous Complimentary Split Complementary Classifications of Colors According to some fashion designers, in wearing appropriate dress, we should consider the Law of the Dressing Scheme which emphasizes the harmonious combination of colors in costumes and the becomingness of the colors in bringing out the charm of the eyes, hair, and skin tone of the wearer. To bring out the best in our personality, the color of the eyes, hair and complexion should always be considered. This determines that white complexioned prefers the light colors, green is the best color and tints of orange, blue, and red creamy, and white. Avoid brown, yellow and purple. Fair complexioned can wear light or dark colors but should avoid medium values. 57 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Colors which harmonizes with the hair and eyes are becoming like old rose, deep reds, yellow gold. Avoid gray, blue gray, light and dark blue and olive green. Pale faced should avoid brilliant colors. Yellow complexion needs light tan and natural color and dark complexion can wear broken orange which adds life and personality. Purple is hard to wear because it gives the complexion a muddy appearance especially for the young girls but suitable for the gowns of older women. Neutral and bright colors emphasize age, size, feature, complexion and should be selected carefully. Light colors express gaiety and daintiness while dark ones give force and dignity. Let’s Do it! Draw an original version of your color wheel. Collect straps of fabrics and paste them in the color wheel using the color combination of fabric. Rubrics for Art Advanced Grade/Standar d How well directions are followed Neatness Work Habits Expectations A+ A- Proficient +B- Basic +C- In-Progress D F Every direction is followed to the fullest extent Completed artwork is exceptionall y neat All directions are followed Many directions are followed Some directions are followed Few directions are followed Directions have not been followed Completed artwork is very neat Student worked for entire period and did not need reminders to stay on task Completed artwork is more messy than neat Student worked part of the period and needed several reminders to stay on task Artwork is incomplete or extremely messy Student did not work much during the period and needed several reminders to stay on task Artwork is incomplete Student worked for entire period with superior focus and did not need reminders to stay on task Student has exceeded expectation s of his/her ability level Completed artwork is neat, with some parts less neat Student worked most of the period and needed few reminders to stay on task Student has met most expectation s of his/her ability level Student has met some expectation s of his/her ability level Student has not met few expectation s of his/her ability level Student has not met expectation s of his/her ability level Student has fully met expectation s of his/her ability level 58 Student did not work during the period even with several reminders to stay on task LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Interpretation of Color RED an agressive and energetic color. It symbolizes blood and sword. It gives a pleasing effect to the complexion. It lends rosy glow to the skin that gives the appearance of health and vitality. White symbolizes purity and innocence.It increases apparent size and should be used sparingly by stout figures. BLUE denotes the color of heaven. It symbolizes the highest degree of spirituality. It is termed as innocent, quiet, and reserved. It expresses modesty, truth and calmness. Gray ORANGE It denotes pomp, grandeur, magnificence. It reflects a reddish color on the face. denotes refinement and modesty. It is quiet and retiring. It denotes refinement and modesty. It decreases the size of the figure. GREEN bring rest and peace. It is satisfying and relaxing to the tired eyes. It signifies hope, ideals and generosity. When combined to yellow means happiness and gaiety. Black YELLOW expresses rest, peace, sunshine and gaiety. It casts its hue over the face, hair and eyes. It can be used by person with clean freshtinted complexion. WARM COLORS expresses somberness, coldness, mystery, and mourning. It decreases the size of the wearer because it absorbs light and calls less attention to the figure. NEUTRAL COLORS Warm colors are cheerful and stimulating, but when they are very bright, they may become irritating. VIOLET expresses formality, dignity and suggests loyalty and statelines. It expresses truth. It also symbolizes mourning and sadness. COOL COLORS Cool colors are quiet and restful, but as the color becomes darker, they may become depressing. 59 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Read and understand more about Design for Different Figure Types. The following are some of the figure types excerpt from the book of L. Belle Pollard, Experiences with Clothing showing the becoming designs and unbecoming designs to different figure types. Figure Type Short-Thin Becoming Designs Princess lines Full-length coats Short and bolero jackets Narrow, matching belts Skirts with knife pleats, easy gores Delicate, dainty fabrics One-color costumes Short-Stout Vertical or diagonal lines Simple designs Easy-fitting clothes Full-length coats Narrow, matching belts Set-in sleeves Dull surfaced fabrics One-color costumes Tall-Thin Tall-Stout Average Unbecoming Designs Clinging styles and fabrics Large prints Large accessories Long waistline Ruffles, bows, frills Full or very straight skirts Full sleeves Broad collars, wide lapels Wide or contrasting belts Bulky or large figured fabrics Contrasting colors in yokes, Princess styles blouses, and skirts Small accessories Bulky fabrics, plaids, checks Shiny, clinging fabrics Wide belts, patch pockets Vertical stripes Dolman, push-up, or full- Long U necklines sleeves Easy, bloused waistlines Circular, pleated, or gathered skirts Double breasted styles Full or boxy jackets Simple designs, little detail Frilly clothes Balance or horizontal and Large sleeves vertical lines Contrasting and wide Easy fitting, straight and belts slightly flared skirts Bulky fabrics Three-quarter, set-in sleeves Small accessories Dull fabrics Can wear most good designs; specific figure variations may limit. 60 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Design for Individual Face and Figure Variations Figure Variation Becoming Designs Narrow Hips Full, gathered, or pleated skirts Bulky fabrics Overblouses Unbecoming Designs Tight-fitting skirts at and just above hips Large Hips Broad shoulders Skirts with free and easy fit and slight flare Bodice bloused above waistline Dark colors below waist Tight, big belts Skirts made of plaids or bias stripes Sleeves with fullness at hip line Horizontal detail at hips Thin Legs and Feet Full skirts of moderate length Uneven hem line Light hose Heavy Legs and Ankles Longer skirts with some Straps across instep fullness Fancy shoes Even hem line Dull hose 61 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Large Bust Dark colors above waist Skirt with flare Soft fullness over bust V-Neckline Large accessories Straight coats and jackets Broad shoulders Bulky or shiny fabrics Snug belts Fussy detail, bows, pockets Tight, narrow skirts Sweaters Short Waist No definite waistline Narrow belts V-shaped necklines Vertical tucks Low collars Contrasting color blouse and skirt Wide collars Horizontal trim Thick Waistline Princess lines Fullness above waist Interest at neckline Wide or bright belts Short skirts Prominent Abdomen Interest above waistline Two-piece dresses with peplums Straight, finger-tip jacket Loosely fitted blouse Unpressed pleats Tight coat or skirt Short, open jackets Bias skirt Bulky belt Decoration at center front of waistline 62 in LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Sway Back Loosely-fitted, bodice or Tight-fitting skirts dress slightly bloused Princess lines above waistline Long jackets Two-piece dresses Dresses with peplums Review of Learning Outcome 1 Directions. Rearrange the letters in the box to form the word that best describes the statements below. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. N O T P O O R I P R It involves the relationship of one part to another. 2. E B L N A A C A I The feeling of rest and equilibrium. 3. P S E M H S It means that one part of a design must be more important than the other parts. 4. E N I L It is the basic part of any design. 5. X E E T U The surface quality of a fabric. 63 T R LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 6. H T R M Y N It is the movement of the eye from one part of the design to other parts. 7. A N Y O H R M S I The feeling of oneness and unity. 8. T E N T I Y N It is the brightness or dullness of a color 9. M O R F Refers to the shape of an object as determined by line. 10. R O O C L This affects our mood but adds beauty and life in everything that surrounds us. How do you find your review test? Is it doing well? Go on, explore more and enjoy learning! Enhancement activity Activity What‟s In? Latest Trend in Fashion Let the students have a sketch or illustration of their own creation of latest fashion in dress applying the principles and elements of design. Directions: Make a miniature of the different styles of skirt using the appropriate fabric. 64 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Rubrics for Art Grade/Standard How well directions are followed Neatness Work Habits Expectations Advanced 6 5 Every All direction directions is are followed followed to the fullest extent Complete Completed d artwork artwork is is very neat exception ally neat Student Student worked worked for for entire entire period period and with did not superior need focus and reminders did not to stay on need task reminders to stay on task Student Student has has fully exceeded met expectati expectation ons of of his/her his/her ability level ability level Proficient 4 Many directions are followed Basic 3 Some directions are followed Completed artwork is neat, with some parts less neat Student worked most of the period and needed few reminders to stay on task Completed artwork is more messy than neat Student worked part of the period and needed several reminders to stay on task Artwork is incomplete or extremely messy Student did not work much during the period and needed several reminders to stay on task Artwork is incomplete Student has met most expectation of his/her ability level Student has met some expectation of his/her ability level Student has not met few expectation of his/her ability level Student has not met expectation of his/her ability level PERFECT POINTS: In-Progress 2 Few directions are followed 1 Directions have not been followed Student did not work during the period even with several reminders to stay on task 24 PTS. Adapted from: www.pinterest.com Types and Properties of Fabrics Suited for Ladies Skirt Textile designers create plenty of new textiles and novelty designs from time to time. Knowing the current fashion in fabrics and understanding how to use them, beauty and suitability of the garment will be achieved successfully which one will love to wear all the time. Types of Fabric 1..Gabardine Care and Maintenance Gabardine- a hardwearing suiting fabric with a distinctive weave. It has a sheen and is prone to shine. It can be difficult to handle as it is springy and frays badly. 65 Uses Thread: polyester all- purpose thread or 100% cotton thread Needle: machine size 14; Sharps for hand sewing LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Linen Steam iron on a wool setting: Use just the toe of the iron and a silk organza pressing cloth as the fabric will mark and will shine. Use for: men‟s and ladies‟ wear, jackets, pants Linen is a natural fiber that is derived from the stem of the flax plant. It is cool and comfortable to wear; absorbs moisture well; shrinks when washed; does not ease well; has a tendency to wrinkle; prone to fraying; resists moths but is damaged by mildew. Thread: polyester all- purpose thread Steam iron on a cotton setting Avoid pressing in sharp creases. Avoid risk of mildew. 3. Denim Denim is a sturdy cotton twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces the familiar diagonal ribbing of the denim that distinguishes it from cotton duck. An indigo denim that only warp threads are dyed, whereas the weft threads remain plain white. This is why blue jeans show the blue warp threads outside and the other side shows the white weft threads. This type of 66 Needle: machine size 14; sharps for hand sewing Use for: summerweight jackets, dresses, pants, skirts Thread: polyester all-purpose thread with top –stitching thread for detail top stitching. Needle: machine size 14/16; sharps for hand sewing Use for: jeans, jackets, children‟s wear Steam iron on a LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Poplin dyeing also creates denim's fading characteristics, which are unique compared to every other textile. cotton setting; a pressing cloth is not required Poplin, also called tabinet (or tabbinet), is a strong fabric in a plain weave of any fiber or blend, with crosswise ribs that typically gives a corded surface. Thread: polyester all- purpose thread Steam iron on a cotton setting Avoid pressing in sharp creases. Needle: machine size 14; sharps for hand sewing Use for: shirts, trousers, skirts Avoid risk of mildew. 5. Broadcloth 6. Gingham Fantastic, closely woven Thread: polyester cotton that has slight rib all- purpose thread or 100% cotton thread Steam iron on a cotton setting Needle: machine Avoid pressing in sharp size 14; Sharps creases. for hand sewing This is a medium-weight balanced plain woven fabric made from dyed cotton. Its name originates from the Malay adjective, genggang, meaning striped. This is commonly used for school uniform. 7. Sharkskin Sharkskin is a smooth worsted fabric that often has a smooth soft texture and a two-toned woven appearance referred to as a basketweave. This may be made with the use of rayon or acetate or as a 67 Use for: Casual wear, children‟s wear, shirts, skirts Thread: polyester all-purpose thread Needle: machine size 11/12; sharps for hand sewing Use for: children‟s wear, dresses, shirts, home furnishings Thread: polyester all- purpose thread Needle: machine size 14; sharps for hand sewing LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ blend of the two. Use for: apparel, trousers, skirts This may be used for everything from sporting and marine equipment to clothing and accessories. 8. Corduroy Corduroy is describe as a type of fabric that has parallel, lengthwise cords or ridges. The word is derived from the French word for “Cord of the King”. This is originally made of cotton but today, blends of other fabricated fibers including polyester, rayon and acrylic is used. Thread: polyester all-purpose thread Needle: machine size 12/16; sharps or milliners‟ for hand sewing Use for pants, skirts, men‟s wear This can be used in making jacket, blazer, jeans, skirt, shorts, and for upholstery. Determining the Quality and Suitability of the Fabric There are simple tests that you can perform on samples of fabrics that will help you determine their qualities and suitability to your purpose. 1. Test by Thumb Determine the strength and shape-holding qualities both lengthwise and crosswise of fabrics. With both hands, grasp a sample between your thumbs and forefingers. Stretch the fabric by moving your hands back so that the thumbs separate and the fingernails push together. Weak fabrics pull apart or become thin where they are stretched. 2. Test by Pin Determine slippage of threads. Pin a small tuck in a sample. Pull on the fabric from both sides of the tuck, working back and forth as you pull. If the fabric tears or pulls away from the pin it would probably pull at the seams. 68 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Test for Sizing Determine whether stiffening has been added to give a more closely woven look and firmer feel. Rub the fabric between your hands; observe whether a powder-like dust falls out indicating stiffening added. If heavily sized, the rubbed part will look thinner when held to the light and will appear limp and coarse. Sizing dissolves in water. 4. Test for Straight of Grain Examine fabrics to determine whether the fabric grain will need to be straightened. At one end of the fabric, observe whether lengthwise and crosswise threads are at right angles to each other. Designs on printed fabric must be exactly on crosswise grain; otherwise do not purchase. 5. Test for Wrinkle Resistant Crumple a corner of the fabric; release it, and note the degree of wrinkling in it. 6. Test for Ability to Take Pleats Fold the fabric crosswise or lengthwise; press with your hands. Note whether pleats remain or fall out. Enhancement activity Activity Have a research on the following: 1. Make an album of the different kinds of fabric. Identify each fabric. 2. Give several reasons why a manufacturer would blend two or more fibers into one fabric. Tell why the following might be blended. a. Cotton and acrylic b. Cotton and silk c. Cotton and wool d. Cotton and spandex e. Rayon and acetate f. Wool and nylon 69 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Rubrics for Art Grade/Standard How well directions are followed Neatness Work Habits Expectations Advanced 6 5 Every All direction directions is are followed followed to the fullest extent Complete Completed d artwork artwork is is very neat exception ally neat Student Student worked worked for for entire entire period period and with did not superior need focus and reminders did not to stay on need task reminders to stay on task Student Student has has fully exceeded met expectati expectation ons of of his/her his/her ability level ability level Proficient 4 Many directions are followed Basic 3 Some directions are followed Completed artwork is neat, with some parts less neat Student worked most of the period and needed few reminders to stay on task Completed artwork is more messy than neat Student worked part of the period and needed several reminders to stay on task Artwork is incomplete or extremely messy Student did not work much during the period and needed several reminders to stay on task Artwork is incomplete Student has met most expectation of his/her ability level Student has met some expectation of his/her ability level Student has not met few expectation of his/her ability level Student has not met expectation of his/her ability level PERFECT POINTS: In-Progress 2 Few directions are followed 1 Directions have not been followed Student did not work during the period even with several reminders to stay on task 24 PTS. Adapted from: www.pinterest.com Styles of Skirt Skirt is a free hanging part of an outer garment or undergarment extending from the waist down to a particular length of the garment. Ladies skirts are of different styles, types and shapes. The names of the skirt signify its shape or design. They are worn to cover the lower part of the body. A dressmaker can make any style and design on the skirt in different ways based on the figure of the client. However, be careful in wearing skirt which are only suitable for some specific blouses or tops. There are few basic categories of styles of skirt: 1. Straight skirt - referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a straight line with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline. It is a slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut line. Generally the hem falls to, or just below the knee and is tailored for a close fit. It is named for its shape: long and slim like a pencil. 70 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ a. Short Straight Skirt is a skirt style just above the knee and it gives a flattering effect to the wearer. However, there are super short straight skirt such as the micro-mini, which are becoming to those who have slim and long- legged figures. b. Long Straight Skirt is best when they end to the part of the legs that begins to taper. 2. A-Line/ Flared Skirt is a skirt fuller at the hem than at the waist and probably the best style for most women. Its silhouette is narrower at the top, flaring gently wider toward the bottom thereby resembling the letter A. It may be fitted at the waist, high hip, and full hip.It works well on women with small waist and good for those with full-hipped figures. 3. Gored Skirt is a style of skirt consists of four, six, eight or more gores shaped to flare from waist to hem. This is very classic, and is always in fashion. It‟s one of the most flattering styles. Its vertical lines create an illusion of height and slimness. A gored skirt can be either straight or Aline, depending on the contours of the gores. For a slim woman, a gored style which is fitted at the waist and hips and flares at the hem line is best suited. While A-line is best for you, if the skirt with gores flare from waist or high hip which is emphasized by the shaped and curvy gores. 4. Pleated/ Tucked Skirt is a type of skirt which has pleats that create refined vertical line while softening the figure. Skirt with all around pleats are best for slim, narrow-hipped figures. a. A Box pleated skirt – a double pleat having two upper folds facing in opposite directions and two under folds pressed toward each other. b. Fix box pleated skirt- a flat double pleat made by folding under the fabric on either side of it. c. Knife pleated skirt- a sharply creased narrow pleat, usually one of a series folded in the same direction. d. Accordion pleated skirt- a series of narrow, evenly spaced parallel pleats with alternating raised and recessed folds set into skirt usually by a commercial pleating machine. 5. Gathered Skirt usually gathers at the waist and visually adds weight and bulk to any figure. 71 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ STYLES OF SKIRT 72 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ a. b. c. d. e. f. g. h. i. j. k. Other types of skirts: Sheath - a figure-hugging dress with a narrow tapering skirt Pant skirt- a long skirt that resembles the style of pants. Semi-circular skirt – skirt made half the amount of fabric used in circular skirt. Circular skirt - Skirt made in circular shape, often by use of gores, and hanging in unbroken ripples from waist to hem; also made from a fabric circle. Buttoned straight skirt – long skirt with buttons down at the center. Sarong- a loose-fitting skirtlike garment formed by wrapping a strip of cloth around the lower part of the body, worn by both men and women in the Malay Archipelago and certain islands of the Pacific Ocean. Peplum skirt - is a short, gathered, slightly flared strip of fabric attached at the waist of a woman‟s blouse, jacket, skirt or dress. Wrap around skirt – a skirt made to fold around or across the body so that one side of the garment overlaps the other forming the closure. Suit skirt – a skirt that comes along with a suit. Flounced skirt – a skirt consisting of a strip gathered and sewed on by its upper edge around the skirt, and left hanging. Draped skirt – an A-line skirt with extra upward ruffled fabric on both sides usually used as a semi-gown skirt. 73 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Review of Learning Outcome 2 Identification. Directions. Name the following types of skirts. 1. ________________ 3._________________ 2. ________________ 4. _________________ 5.. ______________ Enhancement activity Activity Let the students collect pictures and make an album of the different styles of skirt. Let them label each of them. Give them at least one week to prepare it and collect it. Let them share their experience and their own insight about the importance of the album in relation to their course. 74 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Body Measurements for a Skirt 1. Waistline Measurement. Run the tape measure around the waistline. (A) This is the measurement around the smallest part of your waist. You can tie a string around to find the smallest part. Wrap the tape around first to find your natural waist, then measure. *When measuring a circumference , put two fingers under the tape measure. This will serve as additional allowance. 2. Lower Hip Measurement.. On the other side of the hip, run the tape measure from the waistline level to the level where the buttocks are fullest. This will be where the lower hip level will fall. (B) 3. Lower HipLine. Run the tape measure along the lower hip level where the buttocks are fullest. If the stomach is prominent or rounded add an allowance of 2 or more inches (or 5.1 cm. or more) until the fullness of the stomach is covered. (C) This is done so that the skirt will fall nicely and not bulge around the stomach area 75 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Skirt length. Run the tape measure from the waistline level down to the skirt length desired. (D) Skirt length may vary depending on the skirt style. Note down the varying skirt length that you may desire, like mini length, channel length, midi length, etc. Measurements Needed in Making a Skirt Pattern Body Parts to be Measured Standard Actual Measurements Measurements for Lower Hip Level A. Waistline B. Lower Hip Level a. Extra Small Figure 5½” (14 cm) b. Small Figure 6½” (16.5 cm) c. Medium Figure 7½” (19 cm) d. Large Figure 8½” (22 cm) e. Extra Large Figure 9½” (24.5 cm) f. Lower Hip C. Skirt Length a. Regular Skirt Length b. Mini Skirt Length c. Midi (mid-knee) Skirt Length d. Maxi skirt Length e. Long Gown Length Procedure in Taking Body Measurements for Ladies Skirt Materials Needed: Tape Measure, Personal Measurement Chart (PMC) 76 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ PERSONAL MEASUREMENT CHART (MC) Customer‟s Name ____________ Date Taken: __________ Body Parts to be Actual Body Measurement Computed Measured Measurement Needed Measurement Waist Circumference ¼ Hip1 Circumference ¼ Hip2 Circumference ¼ Skirt Length Enhancement activity Activity A. Directions: Get a partner and measure his/her actual body measurement needed in making the skirt pattern. This will be the actual measurements needed in sewing the ladies skirt. Use separate sheet if necessary. Drafting Basic/Block Pattern of the Skirt Patterns are carefully drafted to give accurate results. They serve as valuable guide in laying, cutting and assembling the different parts during sewing. Pattern drafting gives the dressmaker a blueprint of what a garment will look like. It also serves as a guide for the dressmaker. Two kinds of Patterns 1. Foundation Pattern is a simple pattern which contains the exact body measurements and reflects no definite style, It has five parts: back blouse, front blouse, back skirt, front skirt, and sleeve. Each part has a dart except the sleeve. This pattern serves as a basis for preparing the style pattern. 2. Style Pattern- shows the style of the garment to be constructed. It contains the necessary seam allowances that are found in the finished garment. In drafting the foundation pattern, the following materials should be ready: 1.Pattern paper (positioned on its lengthwise grain) 2.Pencil with eraser 3.Tape measure 4.Ruler 77 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5.Hip guide 6.Scissors To ensure quality output, dressmakers draft pattern before sewing. . Pattern Markings are universal symbols and lines designed to help the sewer put the pattern pieces together quickly, easily and successfully. Every marking is necessary for specific reason. Not every marking is on every pattern because some are specific to a certain style or construction technique. Construction markings are very helpful during the sewing process and transferring them to the fabric is a must. Review of Learning Outcome 2 Identification: Directions: Name the following tools used in drafting pattern. 1. ____________________ 2. _____________________ 78 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. ______________________4. ______________________ 5. _______________________ Project Plan for Ladies’ Skirt Project Planning is the underlying base behind every successful project. This serves as a guide in making a quality and beautiful project. It should be well structured and carefully drafted. It should contain the materials and tools to be used, design and procedure in making the project and the criteria for evaluating the finished output coupled with rubrics designed by the teacher and students. Components of a Project Plan Project Plan No. – reflects the number of projects Date Started – date when the construction of the project will start. Date Finished – the exact date when the project will be completed Name of the Project – a specific description of the job/ project. Objectives - states the purpose why a project should be done. This is usually stated in three learning domains: the cognitive, psychomotor and affective. 6. Tools and Equipment – list of tools and equipment in the accomplishment of the job 7. Materials and Supplies Needed – the itemized list of tools and supplies needed to produce a project. a. Quantity suggests the amount needed. b. Unit is the unit of measure of the quantity. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 79 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ c. Description refers to the features and characteristics of the materials and supply needed. d. Unit Cost is the selling price per quantity and unit of the materials e. Total Cost is the total amount needed per quantity of supply and material needed. f. Total is the over-all total cost of all the supplies and materials to be used. 8. Design Specifications – the photographic representation of the project in two to five views: front, back, right, left and top views. 9. Procedure – the chronological steps or operations involved to accomplish the project. This is divided into two stages: a. Preparation stage – depicts the preparation to be done before the actual execution or performance of the operations. b. Performance stage – the actual procedures involve in the actual making of the project where all tools, supplies, materials and equipment intended to make the project ready. 10. Evaluation – the process of assessing the finished project with its given criteria prepared during planning and evaluating. Enhancement activity Activity Make a Project Plan Directions: Make a project plan for your sleeping garment using the template below. Use separate sheet if necessary. Project Plan No. ___ Name: __________________________Date Started: _____________ Year and Section: _________________Date Finished: _______________ I. Name of the Project: ____________________________________ II. Objectives: 1. ________________________________________________ 2. ________________________________________________ 3. ________________________________________________ 80 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ III. Tools and Equipment: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. IV. Materials and Supplies Needed: Quantity Unit Description V. Design Specifications: VI. Procedure: A. Pre-sewing stage A1. A2. A3. B. Sewing Stage B1. B2. B3. VII. Evaluation: Criteria for Evaluation (Rubrics of Performance) 81 Unit Cost Total Cost LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Congratulations! Project Plan should be filled-in completely and submitted before making the project. In here, you will know what type of project you will make. Drafting the Fundamental Lines for the Skirt A. The Skirt Pattern (front and back) In drafting the skirt (front and back) pattern, locating the four major lines will simplify your drafting activities. Procedure 1. On your pattern paper, draw a perpendicular line T. Mark the midpoint as 1. 2. From 1, measure 1 cm down to get 2. 3. From 1, measure 1½ cm down to get 3. 4. From 1, measure 18 cm to 25 cm down to get 4. 5. From 2, apply the front skirt length down tom get 5F 6. From 3, apply the back skirt length down to get 5B. 7. Square 4 and 5B to the left. 8. Square 4 and 5F to the right. Fundamental Lines in drafting Pattern for Skirt Enhancement activity Activity Directions: Select at least three (3) kinds of drafting the different types of Skirts. Do it within 10-15 minutes only. If you can do it, you are a fast learner, Congratulations! 82 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Use the rubrics in evaluating the output of the students. This will be the indicator if the student will proceed to the next lesson. Rubrics in Drafting the Pattern for the Fundamental Lines of the Skirt Item 1. Use of Tools 5 3 Tools were complete, appropriate and correctly used. Used the correct 2.Procedure method. Procedures correctly followed. All pattern details were 3. Pattern correctly measured and accurately drafted. Finished the pattern ahead 4. Speed of time. 1 Lack of one tool, some were appropriate and correctly used. Lack of two or more tools, some were appropriate and not correctly used. Used the correct method. Procedures partly followed. Some pattern details were inaccurately drafted. Failed to use the correct method. Procedures not followed. All pattern details were not drafted correctly and accurately. Finished the pattern more than the allotted time. Finished the pattern on time. Score 20 points Perfect Score Let’s Do it! Drafting the Back Skirt Pattern 1. On the basic back skirt pattern, from 1 to 6B, use one-fourth waist measurement plus 4 cm. Connect 3 to 6B with a broken line. 83 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. From 4 to 7B, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1.5 cm. Connect 6B to 7B by using a hip curve. 3. From 5B to 8B, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1 cm. Connect 7B to 8B. 4. From 3 to 9B, use one-half bust point width minus 1.5 cm. 5. From 9B to 10B, measure 4 cm. 6. Get the midpoint of 9B and 10B, and mark this 11B. 7. From 11B to 12 B, measure 15 cm. Connect 9B, 10B, and 11B to 12B to form the waist dart. 8. Fold 9B over 10B. Connect 3 to 6B with a slight curve. 9. From 6B to 13B, use the back skirt side length. 10. Connect 5B to 13B with a slight curve. Back Skirt Pattern Let’s Do it! Drafting the Front Skirt Pattern 1. On the basic front skirt pattern, from 1 to 6F, use one-fourth waist measurement plus 2.5 cm. Connect 6 to 6F with a broken line. 2. From 4 to 7F, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1.5 cm. Connect 6F to 7F with a slight curve. 3. From 5F to 8F, use one-fourth hip measurement plus 1 cm. Connect 7F to 8F with a straight line. 4. From 2 to 9F, use one-half bust point width minus 2 cm. 84 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5. From 9F to 10F, measure 2.5 cm. 6. Get the midpoint of 9F and 10F, and mark this 11F. 7. From 11F to 12F, measure 8cm to 13 cm. Connect 9F, 10F, and 11F to form the waist dart. 8. Fold 9F over 10F. Connect 2 to 6F with a slight curve. 9. From 6F to 13F, use the front skirt side length. 10. Connect 5F and 13F with a slight curve. Front Skirt Pattern Use the rubrics in evaluating the output of the students. This will be the indicator if the student will proceed to the next lesson. Rubrics in Drafting the Pattern for Different styles of Skirt Item 5 3 1 Score 1. Use of Tools Tools were complete, appropriate and correctly used. Used the correct 2.Procedure method. Procedures correctly followed. All pattern details were 3. Pattern correctly measured and Lack of one tool, some were appropriate and correctly used. Lack of two or more tools, some were appropriate and not correctly used. Used the correct method. Procedures partly followed. Some pattern details were inaccurately drafted. Failed to use the correct method. Procedures not followed. All pattern details were not drafted 85 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Speed accurately drafted. Finished the pattern ahead of time. Finished the pattern on time. correctly and accurately. Finished the pattern more than the allotted time. 20 points Perfect Score The following are simplified sample patterns for some basic styles of skirts adopted from the book “Pattern-Making and Sewing of Various Skirt Styles by Eloisa R. Francisco, Procedure in Drafting the Different Styles of Skirt The following are some of the styles of skirts which you are familiar with. Choose among these samples which will be your project. 1. The Basic Straight Skirt Pattern 86 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Drafting the Front Basic Straight Skirt Pattern The Front Basic Straight Skirt Pattern Waist Line A From the top edge of the pattern paper, go down 2 inches (5cm.). Mark this point A. From point A, square or extend the line across to 15 inches (38.5cm.). This line will serve as the waistline level. B From point A (which is the waist line level), get ¼ of the waistline measurement by folding the tape measure into four parts. Mark this point B. C From point B, go out 1” (2.6cm). Mark this point C. This allowance will make up for the dart allowance that will be added or marked on the inside of the pattern. D From point A, go down ½” (1.3cm). Mark this point D. D-C Connect point D to point C with a curve ruler. This adjustment on the waistline is to follow the roundness of the curve of the stomach. 87 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Dart Lines E F G H From point A, get 1/8” of the waistline measurement. Mark this point E. Point E will be the center of the dart allowance. From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm) for the dart point. Mark this point F. From point E, go out ½ of an inch(1.3cm) for the other dart point. Mark this point G. From point E, square down for a short figure 5” (13cm), for medium height figure 5 and ½” (14cm.) or a tall figure 6” (15.5cm). Mark this point H. This will be the length of the dart. Connect point H to points E, F, G with straight lines. This will serve as the dart lines. Lower Hip line To get the lower hip level, lay the tape measure from point A down to the lower hip level measurement. Mark this point I. Square of extend the line across to 15” (38.5cm.). This will serve as your lower hip level. If in case you want to determine the upper hip level, it is the center between the waist line level and the lower hip level. J From point I, get ¼of the lower hip measurement, by folding the tape measure into 4 parts. Mark this point J. C-J Connect point C to point J with a curve ruler to shape the hip. Length of the Skirt K From point A, go down to the desired length of the skirt. Mark this point K. From point K, square or extend the line across to 15” (38.5cm.). This line will serve as I 88 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ the hem line level. L From point K, get ¼ of the lower hip measurement, or bring down the measurement from points I-J to point K-L. Mark this point L. M From point K, go down !/2 of an inch (1.3cm.). Mark this point M. This hem line adjustment is a must for the front skirt. M- Connect point M to point L, with a L curve ruler. J- Connect point J to point L, with a L straight line. Drafting the Back Basic Straight Skirt Pattern Zipper Allowance, is attached on the center back of a skirt. Make the zipper allowance from the side edge of the pattern paper, go 1 inch (about 2.5cm.) and make a straight line vertically. The Back Basic Straight Skirt Pattern Zipper Allowance. Generally, the zipper is attached on the center back of a skirt. From the side edge of the pattern paper, go in 1 inch (about 2.5cm) and make a straight line vertically. Print “zipper allowance” on it. Waist Line A From the top edge of the pattern paper on the zipper allowance line, go down 2 inches (5cm). Mark this point A. From point A, 89 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ B C D C-D square or extend the line across to 15 inches (38.5cm.). This line will serve as the waistline level. From point A, get ¼ of the waistline measurement. Mark this point B. From point B, go out 1 inch (2.6cm). Mark this point C. This allowance will make up for the dart allowance that will be added or marked on the patten. From point A, go down ½ of an inch (1.3cm.). Mark this point D. Connect point D to point C with a curve ruler. This adjustment is done on the back skirt pattern to follow the “hollowness” of the upper center hip near the waistline. Dart Lines E From point A, get 1/8 of the waist measurement, then mark this point E. Point E will be the center of the dart allowance. F From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm.) for the center of the dart. Mark this point F. G From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm.) for the end of the dart allowance. Mark this point G. H From point E, square down for a short figure 5 and ½ inches (14cm.) for a medium height figure 6 inches (15.5cm.), for a tall figure 6 and / Inches (16.5cm.). Mark this point H. This will be the length of the dart. Connect point H to points E, F, G, with straight lines. This will serve as the dart lines. Lower Hip Line I To get the lower hip level, lay the tape measure from point A down to the lower hip level measurement. Mark this point I. Square or extend the line across to 15 inches or 38.5cm. This will serve as your lower hip level. (If in case you want to determine the upper hip level, it is the center between the waistline level and the lower hip level). Lower hip level measurement of the front and back skirt is the same. J From point I, get of the lower hip measurement by folding the tape measure into 4 parts. Mark this point J. C-J Connect point C to point J with a curve ruler. 90 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Length of Skirt K From point A, go down to the desired length of the skirt. Mark this point K. From point K, square or extend the line across to 15 inches (38.5cm.). This line will serve as the hemline level. L From point K, get ¼ of the lower hip measurement, by folding the tape measure into 4 equal parts. Mark this point L. J-L Connect point J to point L with a straight line. K-L Connect point K to L with a straight line. After drafting the back pattern of a basic straight skirt, review the measurements. Cut along points D to C to J to L to K, include the zipper allowance. This pattern can serve as your sloper for other skirt types. Label it with the name of the owner and keep it in the envelope together with the front basic straight skirt pattern. Pattern for the Waistband A-B Get the waistline measurement and make a line. Mark this A-B. C From B, add 3 inches (8cm.) for closure allowance. Mark this C, D From A, go down 1 and ¼ inches (3cm.) for the thickness of the waistband. Mark this D. The thickness of the waistband may vary depending on the thickness desired. E From C, go down 1 and1/4 inches (3cm.) for the thickness of the waistband. Mark this E. Make a line from D to E. The line will eventually be folded. F From D, go down 1 and ¼ inches (3cm.) for the thickness of the waisband. Mark this F, G From E, go down 1 and ¼ inches (3cm.) for the thickness of the waistband. Mark this G. Make a line from F to G. Connect all points with a straight line. 91 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Interfacing of the Waistband Get your interfacing (waist band stiffener or Penellon), and draft the pattern on it directly. A-B Get the waistline measuremnt and make a line. Mark this A-B. C From B, add 3 inches (8cm.) for closure allowance. Mark this C. D From C, go out 1 inch (2.5cm.), for extra sewing allowance. Mark this D. E From A, go down 1 and ¼ inches (3cm.) for the thickness of the waistband. Mark this E. There is no need for extra sewing allowance. F From D, go out 1 inch and ¼ inches (3cm.) for the thickness of the waistband. Mark this F. Connect all points with a straighline. Cut along points A, B, C, D, E, and F. Interfacing of the Waistband Use the rubrics in evaluating the output of the students. This will be the indicator if the student will proceed to the next lesson. Rubrics in Drafting the Front and Back of Basic Straight Skirt Pattern Item 5 3 1 Score 1. Use of Tools Tools were complete, appropriate and correctly used. Lack of one tool, some were appropriate and correctly used. 92 Lack of two or more tools, some were appropriate and not correctly used. LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Used the correct 2.Procedure method. Procedures correctly followed. All pattern details were 3. Pattern correctly measured and accurately drafted. Finished the pattern ahead 4. Speed of time. Used the correct method. Procedures partly followed. Some pattern details were inaccurately drafted. Finished the pattern on time. 20 points Perfect Score 2. The Basic A-Line Skirt 93 Failed to use the correct method. Procedures not followed. All pattern details were not drafted correctly and accurately. Finished the pattern more than the allotted time. LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Drafting the Pattern of a Basic A-Line Skirt Drafting the Front Skirt Pattern of an A-Line Skirt 1. Follow the procedure of the front Basic Straight Skirt Pattern or trace the sloper for the Front Basic Straight Skirt and add point N, for an Aline silhouette. 2. For an A-line silhouette, from point L, go out 1 and ½ inches (about 4 cm.) or more depending on the desired width of the hemline. Mark this point N. Zipper Allowance, is attached to the center back of a skirt. Make the zipper allowance from the side edge of the pattern paper, go 1 inch (about 2.5cm.) and make a straight line vertically. 94 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ The Back Basic A-Line Skirt Drafting the Back Skirt Pattern of an A-Line Skirt 1. Follow the procedure of the Back Straight Skirt Pattern, or trace the sloper for the Back Straight Skirt Pattern and add point M. 2. From point L, go out 1 and ½ inches (or 4 cm.) or more depending what was added on the Front Skirt Pattern for an A-Line silhouette on the Back Skirt Pattern. Mark this point M. 3. Connect point M with a straight line towards the hip area where the line connection will be smoothest, or will have the straight line connection. Use the rubrics in evaluating the output of the students. This will be the indicator if the student will proceed to the next lesson. Rubrics in Drafting the Front and Back Skirt Pattern of an A-Line Skirt Item 5 3 1 Score 1. Use of Tools Tools were complete, appropriate and correctly used. Used the correct 2.Procedure method. Procedures correctly followed. All pattern details were 3. Pattern correctly measured and accurately drafted. Finished the pattern ahead 4. Speed of time. Lack of one tool, some were appropriate and correctly used. Lack of two or more tools, some were appropriate and not correctly used. Used the correct method. Procedures partly followed. Some pattern details were inaccurately drafted. Failed to use the correct method. Procedures not followed. All pattern details were not drafted correctly and accurately. Finished the pattern more than the allotted time. Finished the pattern on time. 20 points Perfect Score 95 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. The Four-Darted Skirt with Waistline Facing Drafting the Front Skirt Pattern of a Four Darted Skirt with Waistline Facing Waistline A From the top edge of the pattern paper, go down 2 inches (5 cm.) Mark this point A. From point A, square or extend the line across to 15 inches (38.5cm.). This will serve as the waistline level. B From point A, get ¼ of the waistline measurement by folding the tape measure into four parts. Mark this point B. C From point B, go out 2 inches (5cm.). Mark this point C. This allowance will make up for the two dart allowances that will be added or marked on the inside of the pattern. D From point A, go down ½ of an inch (1.3 cm.). Mark this point D. D-C Connect point D to point C with a curve ruler. This adjustment on the waistline will give way to the roundness of the stomach. Dart Lines E From point A, get 1/8 of the waistline measurement, then mark this point E. Point E will be the center of first dart. F From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm.) for the start of the first dart point. Mark this point F. G From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3 cm.) for the end of the first dart point. Mark this point G. H From point E, go down 5 and ½ inches (14cm.). Mark this point H. 96 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ I J K L This will be the length of the first dart lines. Connect point H, to points E, F, G with straight lines. This will serve as the first dart lines. From point G, go out 1 inch (2.6 cm.) for the start of the second dart. Mark this point I. From point I, go out ½ of an inch (2.6cm.) for the center of the second dart. Mark this point J. From point J, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm.) for the end of the second dart. Mark this point K. From point J, go down 4 and ½ inches (11.5cm.). Mark this point L. This will be the length of the second dart lines. Connect point L, to points I, J, K with straight lines. This will serve as the second dart lines. Lower Hip Line M To get the lower hip line, lay the tape measure from point A down to the lower hip level measurement. Mark this point M. Square or extend the line across to 15 inches (38.5cm.). This will serve as your lower hip level. N From point M, get ¼ o fthe lower hip measurement by folding the tape measure into 4 parts. Mark this point N. C-N Connect point C to point N with a curve ruler. Length of the Skirt. O From point A, go down to the desired length of the skirt. Mark this point O. From point O, square or extend the line across to 15 inches (38.5cm.). This will serve as the hemline level. P From point O, get ¼ of the lower hip measurement, by folding the tape measure into 4 parts. Mark this point P. Q From point O, go down ½ of an inch (1.3cm.). Mark this point Q. This hemline adjustment is a must for the front skirt. Q-P Connect point Q to point P with a curve ruler. N-P Connect point N to point P with a straight line. 3. Now that you have the front pattern of a skirt with four darts. Review your measurements. If everything is all right, then you may cut along point D to C to N to P and to Q. 97 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Drafting the Back Skirt Pattern of a Four-Darted Skirt with Waistline Facing The Back Skirt Pattern of a Four-Dated Skirt with Waistline Facing Generally, the zipper allowance is attached on the center back of the skirt. Thus, from the edge of the pattern paper, go in 1 inch (2.5cm.) and make a straight line vertically. This will serve as your zipper allowance. Waistline. A From the top edge of the pattern paper on the zipper allowance line, go down 2 inches (5cm.). Mark this point A. From point A, square or extend the line across to 15 inches (38.5 cm.). This will serve as the waistline level. B From point A, get ¼ of the waistline measurement. Mark this point B. C From point B, go out 2 inches (5cm.). Mark this point C. This allowance will make up for dart allowances that will be added or marked inside the pattern. D From point A, go down ½ of an inch (1.3cm.). Mark this point D. C-D Connect point D to point C with a curve ruler. This adjustment is done on the back skirt pattern to raise the skirt following the “hollowness” on the upper center of the hip area. Dart Lines E From point A, get 1/8 of the waistline measurement. Mark this point E. Point E will be the center of the dart allowance. F From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm.) for the start of the first dart. Mark this point F. G From point E, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm.) for the end of the fist dart. Mark this point G. H From point E, square down to 6 inches (15.5cm.). Mark this point H. This will be the length of the first dart. Connect point H to points E, F, G, with straight lines. This will serve as the first dart lines. 98 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ I J K L From point G, go out 1 inch (2.5cm.) for the start of the second dart. Mark this point I. From point I, go out ½ of an inch (1.3 cm.) for the center of the second dart. Mark this point J. From point J, go out ½ of an inch (1.3cm. for the end of the second dart. Mark this point K. From point J, square down to 5 inches (13.5cm.). Mark this point L. This will be the length of the second dart. Connect point I, J, K with straight lines. This will serve as the second dart lines. Lower Hip Line. M To get the lower hip level, lay the tape measure from point A to the lower hip level measurement. Mark this point M. Square or extend the line across to 15v inches (38.5cm.) This will serve as the lower hip level. N From point M, get ¼ of the lower hip measurement by folding the tape measure into 4 parts. Mark this point N. C-N Connect point C to point N with a curve ruler. Length of Skirt. O From point A, go down to the desired length of the skirt. Mark this point O. From point O, square or extend the line across to 15 inches (38.5cm.). This line will serve as the hemline level. P From point O, get ¼ of the lower hip measurement, by folding the tape measure into 4 equal parts. Mark this point P. N-P Connect point N to P with a straight line. 4. Now that you have the back pattern of a four-darted skirt. Review the measurements. Cut along points D, C, N, P, to O (include zipper allowance). Draft Pattern for the Waistline Facing a. Cut the front and back skirt on the sewing line. Include the allowance at the back of skirt zipper. 99 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ b. In the dart lines of the front and back skirt to close the darts. This will naturally alter the curve of the waistline. c. Following the altered curve of the waistline due to the closing or pinning of the dart lines, go down 3 inches (7.5cm.) from the center front and center back of the waistline to the side seam of the waistline, and mark with broken lines. This will be the shape of the skirt facing without allowance. d. Get a small piece of pattern paper and pin the pattern paper under the front and back skirt pattern on the facing area. Trace the outline of the facing on the pattern paper. After tracing, remove all the pins. 100 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ e. Cut the outline of the waistline facing for the front and the back skirt. Label front and back facing. Use the rubrics in evaluating the output of the students. This will be the indicator if the student will proceed to the next lesson. Rubrics in Drafting the Front, Back and Waistline Facing of a Four-Darted Skirt Item 5 3 1 Score 1. Use of Tools Tools were complete, appropriate and correctly used. Used the correct 2.Procedure method. Procedures correctly followed. All pattern details were 3. Pattern correctly measured and accurately drafted. Finished the pattern ahead 4. Speed of time. Lack of one tool, some were appropriate and correctly used. Lack of two or more tools, some were appropriate and not correctly used. Used the correct method. Procedures partly followed. Some pattern details were inaccurately drafted. Failed to use the correct method. Procedures not followed. All pattern details were not drafted correctly and accurately. Finished the pattern more than the allotted time. Finished the pattern on time. 20 points Perfect Score 101 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. The Gathered Skirt Drafting the Pattern of Front Gathered Skirt From the edge of the pattern paper, go down 2 inches (5cm.) which will be the waistline level. Ark this Y1. Square or extend the line across to 30 inches (76cm.) Get ¼ of the waist measurement from point Y1. Mark the end of ¼ of the waistline measurement point Z1. Get the length of the skirt. Mark this Y2, and on this level, get 1/3 of the waist measurement. Mark this point Z2. 102 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Make a straight line from Z1 to Z2. This will be where the Front Basic Straight Pattern will be drafted or its sloper wil be pinned and traced. Disregard the dart lines. The silhouette of the gathered skirt may be straight or A-line. From point K, extend the hemline to point L with a straight line. If an A-line silhouette is desired, go out 1 and ½ inches (4cm.) or more. Mark this point N. Connect point N to the area of the hip with a straight line where the line will be smoothest. Drafting the Pattern of Back Gathered Skirt Waist which is gathered doesn‟t need zipper because the waist will stretch enough to pass it on hip part. If an A-line silhouette is desired, go out 1 and ½ inches (4 cm.) or more. Mark this point M. Connect point M to the area of the hip where the line connection will be smoothest. Use the rubrics in evaluating the output of the students. This will be the indicator if the student will proceed to the next lesson. Rubrics in Drafting the Front and Back Gathered Skirt Item 5 3 1 1. Use of Tools Tools were complete, appropriate and correctly used. Lack of one tool, some were appropriate and correctly used. 103 Lack of two or more tools, some were appropriate and not correctly used. Score LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Used the correct 2.Procedure method. Procedures correctly followed. All pattern details were 3. Pattern correctly measured and accurately drafted. Finished the pattern ahead 4. Speed of time. Used the correct method. Procedures partly followed. Some pattern details were inaccurately drafted. Finished the pattern on time. Failed to use the correct method. Procedures not followed. All pattern details were not drafted correctly and accurately. Finished the pattern more than the allotted time. 20 points Perfect Score 5. The All Around Pleated Skirt with Hip Yoke The front and the back pattern have the same procedure. The zipper may be placed on the side of the skirt. 104 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Drafting the Pattern of an All Around Pleated Skirt with Hip Yoke Get two pattern papers and fold each in the middle.Mark one front and the other back. Pin the basic straight skirt pattern or sloper on the center fold of the paper. Trace the basic sloper with the dart lines.DO the same procedure on the other pattern paper. Cut along the sewing lines. Trace the dart oin the other side of the fold pattern. Draw a line on the desired yoke level or 2 inches (5 cm.) above the lower hip level. Mark this line as X. Go up ½ of an inch (1.3 cm.) from point X, and mark Y. Trace the new markings on the other side of the fold pattern. From point X, make a smooth vanishing line towards the center of the yoke. Trace new marking on the other side of the fold of the pattern. Cut out darkened part, and separate the yoke from pleated part of the skirt. Unfold the pattern and draw lines with equal distances to indicate the width of the pleats. Then cut off the yoke removing the vanishing lines from point Y and point X. Number the pleats. 105 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Or, unfold the pattern and cut off the yoke removing vanishing lines from point Y and point X. Then fold the lower skirt on the center and start folding the pattern paper for the pleats. Continue to fold until you get the desired width of the pleats. Unfold and draw straight lines along the folds indicating the pleats. Then number the pleats. Cut along the pleat lines. Use the rubrics in evaluating the output of the students. This will be the indicator if the student will proceed to the next lesson. Rubrics in Drafting the Pattern of an All-Around Pleated Skirt with Hip Yoke Item 5 3 1 Score 1. Use of Tools Tools were complete, appropriate and correctly used. Used the correct 2.Procedure method. Procedures correctly followed. All pattern details were 3. Pattern correctly measured and Lack of one tool, some were appropriate and correctly used. Lack of two or more tools, some were appropriate and not correctly used. Used the correct method. Procedures partly followed. Some pattern details were inaccurately drafted. Failed to use the correct method. Procedures not followed. All pattern details were not drafted 106 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Speed accurately drafted. Finished the pattern ahead of time. Finished the pattern on time. correctly and accurately. Finished the pattern more than the allotted time. 20 points Perfect Score Altering the basic/block pattern Adjustments to the fit of a garment must be made before the pattern is cut out. Once you cut the pieces out of the fabric, it is too late to add extra inches that you may need. If the garment is too large, the extra effort in redoing your work to make the garment fit is tedious and discouraging. General Principles for Pattern Alterations According to Ines Alcantara de Guzman, in her module in Dressmaking I, there are four principles applied to all pattern alterations: 1. Preserve pattern outline whenever possible. 2. Preserve the original grainline whenever possible. 3. Avoid changes that disturb darts or decorations, by making changes between the dart and outside edge whenever possible. 4. When altering adjoining edges, proportional length must be preserved. These are best accomplished by using slash and spread, slash and overlap or pleat method. 1.The Slash and Spread Method a. Skirt is lengthened between hip and hemline b. Position line for increasing width of waist, hip and hemline 107 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ c. Alterations of the waistline must be made on both bodice and skirt 2. The Slash and Overlap or Pleat Method a. Length of skirt is reduced in between hips and hemline b. Position line for reduction in width of waist, hip and hemline Lengthening or Shortening Skirts 1.To lengthen the fitted skirt a. Starting below the hip, slash all sections of the skirt through and at right angles to the grainline. b. Spread the desired amount keeping grainline straight (a to b in the figure below) c. d. Increase width below the spread by extending cutting lines to conform to slant of the upper section on both sides of the pattern (a to c, b to d), and adjust seamlines to parallel. Slash the pattern and spread putting the pieces of paper in between. Pin all sides. 108 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ e. When the enlargement extends only partially through the pattern section, slash, spread and pin to heavy paper. f. If the slash crosses the grainline, be sure this grainline is kept straight when pattern is spread. 1. To shorten the fitted skirt a.Starting below the hipline, fold a pleat, half the desired amount of the skirt keeping approximately parallel to the waistline (a to b in figure below) b.Straighten seamline by trimming excess pattern, tapering from a to c and b to d. 2. To lengthen the flared skirt a.Slash all sections of the skirt through the grainline, approximately parallel to the waistline. b. Spread the desired amount, keeping grainline straight ( a to b in figure below) 109 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ c. When the grainline is in the center, correct cutting line by adding all increased widths to both sides of lower section (a to c, b to d) 3. Making a flared skirt from basic skirt a. Draw a straight line from the hemline to the dart. b. Slash along the straight line extending it to the waistline leaving 1 centimeter away from the top edge. c. Spread the piece with the grainline keeping the centerline straight. d.Insert a piece of paper in between the spread pieces, pin and cut excess. 4. Making a shirred or pleated skirt from the basic pattern: a. Determine needed allowance for pleated or shirred skirt. For pleated skirt, number of pleats x depth of pleats. b. Draw a straight line from the hemline to the dart. c. Cut from hemline to waistline. d. Spread the pieces together. e. Insert the paper. Retrace and cut excess. 110 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Let’s Do it! Pattern Alterations Directions: Select at least one method in pattern alterations and alter the basic/block pattern of classmate‟s skirt. Let the teacher check the work. Techniques in Cutting Final Pattern Before cutting out, sort out all the pattern pieces that are required for the item you are making. Check them to see if any have special cutting instructions. If there are no more alterations to be made, just trim patterns to your size. 1. Identify which size to be used for different areas of your body. Use a colored pen and trace the cutting lines. 2. Use a sharp pair of scissor in cutting the pattern. If you slip and make a cut where you shouldn‟t have, simply tape it back into place. The important thing is that the shape is retained and that you can still read the markings. Cut carefully along the cutting lines. 3. Check for seam allowances. Notice the grain lines. The word “directional” means moving with the grain. In cutting garment pieces from fabric , look at the pattern piece. You will notice that by cutting from wide to the narrow part of a piece, you cut with less pull on the grain of the fabric. This is called directional cutting. 4. Use long, even stroke about 1 inch from the end of the blades of the shears. If you close the blades with each stroke, the result cut edge will be choppy and uneven. 5. As you come to the notches (diamond-shaped marks) on the cutting line, cut them around away from the pattern. 6. Trim multi-size pattern pieces. Single-size pattern pieces do not need to be cut to shape ; just cut around them roughly if there is excess tissue. 111 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Enhancement activity Activity Choose one type of skirt from the different types and draft the basic pattern of it by following the given body measurement.Observe the step-by-step procedure. Waistline: 25 inches 2nd hip: 35 inches Length of dart: 20 inches Materials to be used: 1. pattern paper 2. pencil 3. tape measure 4. L-square/ ruler 12” 5. hip curve 1. Draft the following foundation patterns: a. Front skirt b. Back skirt 2. Style the foundation patterns according to the chosen style of the garment to be constructed. Item 1. Use of Tools Rubrics for Pattern Drafting 5 3 Tools were complete, appropriate and correctly used. Lack of one tool, some were appropriate and correctly used. 112 1 Lack of two or more tools, some were appropriate and not correctly used. Score LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Used the correct 2.Procedure method. Procedures correctly followed. All pattern details were 3. Pattern correctly measured and accurately drafted. Finished the pattern ahead 4. Speed of time. Used the correct method. Procedures partly followed. Some pattern details were inaccurately drafted. Finished the pattern on time. Failed to use the correct method. Procedures not followed. All pattern details were not drafted correctly and accurately. Finished the pattern more than the allotted time. 20 points Perfect Score Learning Outcome 2 Prepare and Cut Materials for Ladies Skirt Objectives At the end of this lesson, you are expected to: 1 2, Prepare the materials before cutting; and Cut the materials accurately. Some of the criteria in judging a finished product are: The garment fits perfectly, holds its shape, and hangs well. This is why there is a need to prepare the fabric first before construction to have perfect output. Steps in Preparing the Fabric before Cutting it 1. Fold the cloth neatly and soak it in a basin of water overnight. 2. Hang the cloth and let it dry. 3. If the cloth is not smooth when it dries, pressing is necessary. 4. If the cloth gets out of shape, straighten it by stretching it diagonally. Stretch and pull gently but firmly until the edge and selvages are even when the material is folded in half lengthwise. 113 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Principles of Laying Out Pattern Pieces on the Fabric Patterns are laid out on the fabric to determine if the cloth is enough for all the pattern pieces. The process is known as pattern layout. In this method, lay out all pattern pieces in various positions on the fabric by trial and error until they all fit on the cloth. When all pattern pieces have been laid out, pin them securely on the fabric. Determining the Right and the Wrong Side of the Fabric Before making a layout, determine the right side and the wrong side of the fabric. Fabric with printed designs is easy to identify but difficult for fabrics with plain colors because they are reversible. Tips to help you determine the right and the wrong side of the fabric: 1. The selvage, or the finished edge of the fabric is smoother on the right side. 2. Loose thread ends can be found on the wrong side of the fabric. 3. Fabrics are folded right side in. 4. Prints are clearer and brighter on the right side. Four Kinds of Fabric Folds Deciding what kind of fold to use is based on the width of the fabric and the design of the garment. 1. Lengthwise centerfold- The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with selvages together. 2. Crosswise centerfold- The fabric is folded crosswise at the center with the raw edges together. 3. Off-center lengthwise fold- The fabric is folded lengthwise with the raw edges meeting at the center. 4. Off-center crosswise fold- The fabric is folded crosswise with the raw edges meeting at the center. 114 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Enhancement activity Activity Let the students perform on how to fold the fabric correctly. Check whether the fabric is in right position. Supervise them while performing the activity. Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students P E R F O R M A N C E Dimension Excellent (4 pts.) Very Satisfactory (3 pts.) Satisfactory (2 pts.) L E V E L Needs Improvement (1 pt.) No Attem pt (0 pt.) No attem pt 1. Use of tools and equipment Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently at all times Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently most of the times Uses tools and equipment correctly and but less confidently sometimes Uses tools and equipment incorrectly and less confidently most of the time 2. Application of procedures Manifests very clear understanding of the step- by-step procedure Manifests clear understandi ng of the step- bystep procedure Manifests understanding of the step-by-step procedure but sometimes seeks clarification Manifests less understanding of the step- by-step procedure seeking clarification most of the time No attem pt Works independently with ease and confidence at all times Works independen tly with ease and confidence most of the time Observes safety precautions most of the time Task is completed following the procedures in the project plan Works independently with ease and confidence sometimes Works independently but with assistance from others most of the time No attem pt Observes safety precautions sometimes Most of the time not observing safety precautions No attem pt Task is nearly completed following the procedures in the project plan Task is started but not completed following the procedures in the project plan No attem pt Work Work completed completed ___(mins./hours/d within ays) beyond allotted time TOTAL POINTS Work completed ___(mins./hours/d ays) beyond No attem pt 3. Safety work habits Observes safety precautions at all times 4.Completen ess of Task Task is completed following the procedures in the activity improvement/innovati ons 5. Time management Work completed ahead of time 115 Point s Earne d LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Laying Out Pattern Pieces Depending on the fabric‟s width, be sure to fold the fabric on grain. Be sure to put in and mark the necessary allowances on all parts of the garment. Mark the allowances with tailor‟s chalk or with colored pencil. These allowances are represented by broken lines in the illustrations. Cut along markings of the allowances. The amount of fabric needed will depend on the width of the fabric and the length and style of the skirt. Pointers in Laying out Patterns 1. Make a temporary pattern layout especially if the fabric is too small. 2. Determine the right side of the fabric. 3. Fold the fabric with the right side in and the wrong side out on a lengthwise centerfold. 4. Always make your layout on the wrong side of the fabric. Pattern markings should not be seen on the right side. 5. Lay out big pattern pieces first. Fit the small pattern pieces in between the large pieces. Fit the pieces close together to avoid wastage. 6. Check that the design and grain line of the pattern correspond to those of the fabric. 7. Pin the pattens in place. Pins should be placed outward perpendicular to the seam line and along the seam allowance space. How to Layout Pattern Pieces of the Basic Straight Skirt Pattern on the Fabric 116 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ How to Layout Pattern Pieces of a Basic A-Line Skirt on the Fabric On a 45-inch width fabric On a 60-inch width Fabric How to Layout the Pattern of the Four Darted Skirt with Waistline Facing and Overlap Slit on the Fabric 1. Fold the fabric with two inches (5cm.) jutting out of the under laying fabric. Layout and pin the patterns of the front and back skirt. The center front of the front skirt pattern is joined on the fold of the fabric. The center back of the back skirt is pinned 1 inch (2.5cm.) away from the edge of the upper fabric. The 1 inch (2.5cm.) allowance is for the fold of the overlap slit. 117 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Mark the needed sewing allowances. Mark the desired length of the overlap 6 to 8 inches long (15.5 to 20.5cm.). 3. Cut along the sewing allowances. 4. For the overlap slit, cut excess fabric as shown the illustration above, and just leave the allowances needed for the overlap slit. 5. Mark the sewing lines. How to Layout Pattern of a Gathered Skirt on the Fabric How to Layout Pattern of an All-around Pleated Skirt with Hip Yoke on the Fabric On a 45 or 60 inch width fabric, with a straight or A-line silhouette. 118 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ *Refold fabric so that the front yoke may be laid out on the fold of the fabric. Enhancement activity Activity Let the students perform how to layout properly the fabric. Check whether the fabric is in right position. Supervise them while performing the activity. 119 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students P E R F O R M A N C E Dimension Excellent (4 pts.) 1. Use of tools and equipment Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently at all times 2. Application of procedures Manifests very clear understanding of the step- by-step procedure Works independently with ease and confidence at all times 3. Safety work habits Observes safety precautions at all times 4.Completen ess of Task Task is completed following the procedures in the activity improvement/innovati ons 5. Time management Work completed ahead of time Very Satisfactory (3 pts.) Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently most of the times Manifests clear understandi ng of the step- bystep procedure Satisfactory (2 pts.) L E V E L Needs Improvement (1 pt.) No Attem pt (0 pt.) No attem pt Uses tools and equipment correctly and but less confidently sometimes Uses tools and equipment incorrectly and less confidently most of the time Manifests understanding of the step-by-step procedure but sometimes seeks clarification Manifests less understanding of the step- by-step procedure seeking clarification most of the time No attem pt Works independently but with assistance from others most of the time No attem pt Most of the time not observing safety precautions No attem pt Task is started but not completed following the procedures in the project plan No attem pt Work completed ___(mins./hours/d ays) beyond No attem pt Works Works independen independently with tly with ease and ease and confidence confidence sometimes most of the time Observes Observes safety safety precautions precautions sometimes most of the time Task is Task is nearly completed completed following following the the procedures in the procedures project plan in the project plan Work Work completed completed ___(mins./hours/d within ays) beyond allotted time TOTAL POINTS Point s Earne d Cutting the Fabric After the pattern pieces have been laid out on the fabric, the next step is to cut the fabric. Be very careful in cutting this. If you cut carelessly, time, effort, and money will be wasted. A good rule to remember is, always cut along the pattern so that your free hand rests on the pattern. For the right-handed person, cut to the right of the cutting line. The fingers of the left hand rest lightly on the pattern along the cutting line. Reverse this if you are left-handed. 120 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Pointers in Cutting the Fabric 1. Place the fabric and pattern flat on the table. Avoid moving or lifting the fabric while cutting. 2. Walk around the table as you cut instead of pulling the fabric toward you because the fabric may slip or stretch out of shape. 3. Use sharp shears for cutting, making long strokes along straight edges and short, even strokes along curved edges. Cut the edge straight since it serves as your guide in sewing. 4. Cut the fabric starting from the widest to the narrowest part of the pattern. Begin cutting at an edge which is easy to reach. 5. Cut with smooth, even strokes. 6. Keep the cutting edge of the top blade of the shears directly above the lower blade. Do not let the blades slant toward the table. 7. Cut similar patterns at the same time by cutting them out from two layers of fabric. 8. Close the points of the shears right up to the notch. Close the points at the exact stopping place. Cut outward from the pattern to the exact tip of the notch. Cut inward to complete the notch at the cutting line. 9. When cutting curves, make your strokes shorter. Keep the free hand close to the cutting line to have smooth curved line. 10. Set aside cut fabric pieces to avoid cutting them accidentally as you work on other parts of the fabric. 11. After cutting, do not remove the pins and patterns because you will need them in marking your fabric. 12. Collect and tie all scraps of cloth together for future use. You may be able to use these for your recycling projects. If you are right-handed, place your left hand on the pattern and fabric and hold them in place, and cut cleanly with the scissor blades at a right angle to the fabric. You can cut a small clip into the fabric to mark the dots that indicate the top of the shoulder on a sleeve. Alternatively, these can be markes With tailor‟s tacks. 121 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Cut the mirror image of the notches out into the fabric, rather than cutting Out each notch separately, cut straight across from one point to point. A small clip or snip into the fabric is a useful way to mark someof the lines that appear on a pattern. Enhancement activity Activity Let the students perform on how to cut the fabric properly. Check whether the fabric is in right position. Supervise them while performing the activity. Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students P E R F O R M A N C E Dimension Excellent (4 pts.) 1. Use of tools and equipment Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently at all times 2. Application of procedures Manifests very clear understanding of the step- by-step procedure Works independently with ease and confidence at all times Very Satisfactory (3 pts.) Satisfactory (2 pts.) L E V E L Needs Improvement (1 pt.) No Attem pt (0 pt.) No attem pt Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently most of the times Manifests clear understandi ng of the step- bystep procedure Uses tools and equipment correctly and but less confidently sometimes Uses tools and equipment incorrectly and less confidently most of the time Manifests understanding of the step-by-step procedure but sometimes seeks clarification Manifests less understanding of the step- by-step procedure seeking clarification most of the time No attem pt Works independen tly with ease and confidence most of the Works independently with ease and confidence sometimes Works independently but with assistance from others most of the time No attem pt 122 Point s Earne d LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Safety work habits Observes safety precautions at all times 4.Completen ess of Task Task is completed following the procedures in the activity improvement/innovati ons 5. Time management Work completed ahead of time time Observes Observes safety safety precautions precautions sometimes most of the time Task is Task is nearly completed completed following following the the procedures in the procedures project plan in the project plan Work Work completed completed ___(mins./hours/d within ays) beyond allotted time TOTAL POINTS Most of the time not observing safety precautions No attem pt Task is started but not completed following the procedures in the project plan No attem pt Work completed ___(mins./hours/d ays) beyond No attem pt Transferring of Marks Onto the Fabric After cutting the garment pieces, you are ready to transfer your pattern marks to the fabric. Use tailor‟s chalk or dressmaker‟s carbon paper aided by a tracing wheel. Whichever tool you decide to use, make sure that you transfer all important pattern marks clearly and accurately. The following are the general details to be marked: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. seam lines along curves and corners position of pockets stitch lines center lines for the front and back opening, facings and interdacings darts location of buttons and button holes points where stitching lines should stop fold lines any other special markings used to construct the garment Guidelines in Transferring Marks Onto the Fabric 1. Details should be marked on the wrong side of the fabric where most construction lines are needed. 2. If you use a tracing wheel and dressmaker‟s carbon paper, mount these on a piece of heavy cardboard to protect table surfaces. 3. Use white tracing paper whenever possible because it is safe and easy to remove. 4. Use a ruler to make straight lines with the tracing wheel. Run the tracing wheel along the edge of the ruler with a firm and steady motion to avoid double lines, which can be confusing. 5. When marking curves, slant the tracing wheel slightly inward toward the center of the curve. 6. Avoid retracing or going over the line twice. 7. There are various methods in transferring pattern marking. Tailor‟s tacks are good for circles and dots, or mark these with a water or airsoluble pen (when using a pen, test it on a piece of scrap fabric first). 123 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ For lines, you can use trace basting or a tracing wheel with dressmaker‟s carbon paper. Methods of Transferring Pattern Marking 1.By Using Tailor’s Tacks Often, dots are of different sizes so it is a good idea to choose different colors of thread for each dot size. It is the easy to match the colors as well as dots. Use double thread in your needle, unknotted. Insert the needle through the dot from right to left, leaving a tail of thread. Be sure to go through the tissue and both layers of fabric. 1. Now stitch through the dot again, this time from top to bottom to make a loop. Cut through the loop, then snip off excess thread to leave a tail. 2. Carefully pull the pattern tissue away. On the top side, you will have four threads marking each dot. When you turn the fabric over. The dot positions will be marked with an X. 3. Gently turn back the two layers of fabric to separate them, then cut through the threads so that thread tails are left in both pieces of fabric. 124 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2.By Using Tracing Paper and Wheel 1. This method is not suitable for all fabrics as the marks may not be able to be removed easily. Slide dressmaker‟s carbon paper against the wrong side of the fabric. 2. Run a tracing along the pattern lines (a ruler will help you make straight lines) 3. Remove the carbon paper and carefully pull off the pattern tissue. You will have dotted lines marked on your fabric. 3.By Using Markers 1. This method can only be used with a single layer of fabric. Press the point of the pen into the center of the dot marked on the pattern piece. 2. Carefully remove the pattern. The pen marks will have gone through the tissue on the fabric. Be sure not to press the fabric before the pen marks are removed or they may become permanent. 4.By Trace Tacking 1. This is a really useful technique to mark center front lines, foldlines, and placement lines. With double thread in your needle, stitch a rwo of loopy stitches, sewing along the line marked on the pattern. 125 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Carefully pull away the tissue. Cut through the loops,, then gently separate the layers of fabric to show the threads. Snip apart to leave thread tails in both of the fabric layers. Enhancement activity Activity Let the students perform how to transfer pattern markings properly onto the fabric. Check whether the fabric is in right position. Supervise them while performing the activity. Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students P E R F O R M A N C E Dimension Excellent (4 pts.) 1. Use of tools and equipment Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently at all times 2. Application of procedures Manifests very clear understanding of the step- by-step procedure Works independently with ease and confidence at all times 3. Safety work habits Observes safety precautions at all times 4.Completen ess of Task Task is completed following the procedures in the Very Satisfactory (3 pts.) Satisfactory (2 pts.) L E V E L Needs Improvement (1 pt.) No Attem pt (0 pt.) No attem pt Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently most of the times Manifests clear understandi ng of the step- bystep procedure Uses tools and equipment correctly and but less confidently sometimes Uses tools and equipment incorrectly and less confidently most of the time Manifests understanding of the step-by-step procedure but sometimes seeks clarification Manifests less understanding of the step- by-step procedure seeking clarification most of the time No attem pt Works independen tly with ease and confidence most of the time Observes safety precautions most of the time Task is completed following Works independently with ease and confidence sometimes Works independently but with assistance from others most of the time No attem pt Observes safety precautions sometimes Most of the time not observing safety precautions No attem pt Task is nearly completed following the Task is started but not completed following the No attem pt 126 Point s Earne d LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ activity improvement/innovati ons 5. Time management Work completed ahead of time Learning Outcome 3 the procedures in the procedures project plan in the project plan Work Work completed completed ___(mins./hours/d within ays) beyond allotted time TOTAL POINTS procedures in the project plan Work completed ___(mins./hours/d ays) beyond No attem pt Assemble Garment Parts for Ladies Skirt Pre-assembling Procedure The quality of clothes that we are wearing is affected by the way they are constructed. Understanding the construction process will help us choose quality clothes. There are various standards on how they are being constructed either for ready-to-wear or custom-sewn clothing. Skirt Unit Front 1.Stay stitch waistline on seamline from sides through center front. 2.Stitch the darts, Slash and press open curved darts. 3.Finish the bottom edge of the facing with the side seams folded out. Back and Side Seams 1.Stay stitch waistline on seam line from side to center. 2. Stitch darts and press toward center. 3. Stitch skirt front to back at side seams. Press seams open. 4.Connect the side seams of the skirt, except where the zipper will be attached. 127 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ A. Pressing Techniques Before Construction Pressing can straighten grain lines and preshrink fabric, and it eliminates wrinkles before laying on the pattern. The center crease line should be pressed out of folded fabrics. Wrinkled tissue pattern pieces may be pressed smooth with a warm iron as an aid to accurate cutting. Skilful pressing may substitute for much of the basting; careful pressing of hems and facings will save much time. Press each piece in the construction procedure: the seams, darts or tuckes, before one piece is joined to another. To avoid imprints of edges on right side, insert strips of paper as necessary between garment and seam allowances, darts or pleats, and then press. Ease or fullness may be shrunk out of some fabrics, such as wool and certain cottons and synthetics, in order to shape a particular piece; shoulder seams, sleeves, caps, and bust-line seems may require this treatment. General Directions for Seams Thoroughly smooth the stitching line of any seam by pressing before opening the seam allowances or turning to one side. Press straight seams over straight pads and curved seams over pressing cushion to give them the correct shape. Always press a seam before cross-stitching it with another seam. 128 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Straight Seams Press seam allowance open with tip of iron for an inconspicuous appearance. For some contruction procedures press both edges of seam to one side. The seam may be pressed open before turning and pressing the edges to one side. This may give a flatter line on some fabrics. Lapped Seams Press the turned edge of the top layer before placing it over the underlayer. Steam press completed seams. Curved Seams 1. Press seams with outward curves open over a seam board or near the edge of pressing board. Press only 2” to 3” at a time. Complete the pressing over a rounded cushion or rolled Turkish towel, taking care not to shrink or stretch the seam line. Shrink edges of allowances to flattened seam for a better fit. 2. Clip seams with inward curves to within ¼” of stitching. Press seams open at seam line over seam board. Do not press beyond seam line at each side. Waistline Seams Press seam allowances open, then press both edges together. Leave the seam allowances open if neither bodice nor skirt is bulky at waistline seam. Darts 1. Press dart along the line of stitching. 2. Press waistline and shoulder darts toward the center front and center back, underarm darts toward the waistline, and elbow darts toward the wrist. 3. Clip darts which taper at both ends at the center to within ¼” of the stitching line, press toward the center front or back of garment. 4. Press darts over a rounded cushion to shape the curve. 5. Clip darts open in heavy fabrics to within 1” of point of stitching line; press flat. Pleats Press pleats from hem to waistline. Zipper Plackets 1. Place the garment at the right side down over a well-padded surface such as a Turkish towel. 2. Place a pressing cloth over a placket. Hold iron lightly over placket and press from smaller part of garment to bigger one, such as from waistline to hip. 129 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Hem Press a skirt hem up from the lower edge to avoid stretching. Hems may be pressed from either side. From the right side, press over a wellpadded ironing board. (Imprint will not come through to right side.) Use a heavy pressing cloth. Hems will lie flatter if fulness is shrunk out with steam before sewing on seam tape. Curve the hem tape for a flared skirt by stretching the outer edge as the tape is pressed in a circle. (Experience Clothing) Procedure in Assembling Ladies Skirt The sequencing for the unit method of construction of the different parts of the skirt will be basically the same for all skirt types. It is a must, that one should master the steps in attaching the seams, zippers, pockets, and waist bands. Mastery is achieved with constant practice. How to Prepare the Basic Straight Skirt and Basic A-Line Skirt for Sewing Construction 1. Stay Stitch the waistline ¼ of an inch (.7cm.) above the waistline‟s sewing line markings. This is done so that the part which is curved will not stretch due to handling since the edge of the waistline will not be finished. 2. If you do not have an over-edging machine to finish the raw edges of the different skirt parts, finish the raw edges of the side seams and back center seam by folding the edge by ¼ of an inch (or 0.7 cm.). Machine stitch on the fold. The edge of the waistline need not be finished for this will be covered with a waistband. The edge of the hemline may be finished after the side seams and zipper seams have been sewn together. 130 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Fold the dart on the center line, and join the outer lines with pins. Sew together. Start sewing from the top of the dart allowance to the bottom. Leave tails of threads at the bottom. Knot these together around three times to prevent the stitches from unraveling. Since the dart is a vanishing line, it is not advisable to lock stitch the end of the dart for this will not achieve a fine point. 4. Pin the center back together. Leave unpinned where the zipper will be attached. Get an 8 inch (20cm.) zipper. If you want a slit at the bottom of the skirt, leave this unpinned, too. Machine sew the center back together and where slit is. Lock both ends by back stitches so that machine sewing will not unravel. 5. Fold both sides of the zipper allowance on the main part of the back skirt. Then hand baste the top portion of the fold with reinforced basting to keep it in place. How to Prepare the Four-Darted Skirt with Waist line Facing for Sewing Construction 1. Finish the bottom edge of the facing with the side seams folded out. 2. Finish the side seams and center seams of the shirt. 3. Close all darts of the front and back skirt. 4. Connect the side seams of the skirt, except where zipper will be attached. 5. Attach the zipper to the skirt. 131 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ How to Sew the Overlap Slit Reverse the skirt to the wrong side. Cut on the zipper allowance 1 inch (2.5cm.) below the zipper on the right (hand) side of the skirt when torn. Fold the whole length of the zipper allowance and slit allowance of the right (hand) side of the skirt when worn towards the other side. Hand baste the slit allowances together. Fold the length of the zipper allowance and slit allowance of the right (hand) side of the skirt when worn towards the other side. Hand baste the slit allowances together. 132 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Reverse the skirt to its right side. Machine sew together on a diagonal line, the overlap slit to the under lap slit. Fold the hemline for finishing How to Prepare the Waistline Facing of the Four-Darted Skirt with Waistline Facing and Overlap Slit 1. Join together the side seams of the skirt by machine sewing them. 2. Working on the wrong side of the facing, finish one side of the facing by folding up ¼ of an inch (.07cm.) and machine sew the fold, with the seam allowances flattened to the waist band proper. How to Connect the Waistline Facing to the Skirt 1. Starting from the center of the waistline of the skirt and the center of the waistline of the facing, pin the centers together. Pin baste along the entire span of the waistline. Fold the zipper allowance of the facing . 133 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Hand baste first, or machine sew directly after pin basting. 3. Machine sew along the sewing lines 4. Cut excess sewing allowances, leaving behind ¼ of an inch (0.06 cm.) allowance. 134 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5. Snip in regular intervals along the waistline, so that the facing and the skirt will follow the curve of the waistline in a relaxed manner. 6. With the right side of the skirt facing you, fold up the facing with the sewing allowances laying on the facing. Pin baste them together. Work from the right side of skirt. 135 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ As seen from the wrong side of the skirt. 7. Hand baste where you have pin basted Work on the right side of the skirt As seen from the wrong side of the skirt. 8. Machine sew on the right side of the skirt. Work on the right side of the skirt. 9. Fold in the facing towards the wrong side of the skirt by pin basting it. Then secure the facing to the skirt by hand stitching connecting the facing to the skirt on the seams and folds of the dart. This way the stitches will not appear on the right side of the skirt. 136 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 10. After all the finishing is done, the reverse of a four darted skirt with waistline facing will look as illustrated below. How to Prepare the Gathered Skirt for Sewing Construction Finish the side seam and if there is a center back seam, finish it too. (If the desired zipper placement is at the back, then a center back seam is needed). Connect the side seams. If there is a back seam, connect this also but leave unsewn where the zipper will be attached. On the waistline, run two parallel stitches on the sewing line of the waistline with a distance of 1/8 inches (.04 cm.) between them. Leave excess threads on both ends which may be referred as tails. With zipper on the center back with zipper on the left (hand) side of the skirt To gather the waistline, pull the tails on both ends belonging to the under stitches. To pull the tails belonging to the over stitches will result in a snag because the stitches om top are looped into the under stitch, while the under stitch just runs straight. 137 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Gather evenly by pulling the tails and distributing the gaters evenly until it reaches the desired waistline measurement. Attach th zipper to the zipper allowance. Attach the waistband to the skirt. Finish the edge of the hemline allowance, and fold the hem line allowance and hem stitch. How to Prepare the All-around Pleated Skirt with Hip Yoke for Sewing Construction Finish the side seams of the yokes and the skirt pieces. Close the darts. Connect one side of the side seams of the skirt proper. Lay open and flatten the side seams by pinning to the skirt proper, then finish the top edge of the skirt proper where the yoke will be connected. Fold and pin the pleats, then machine sew the pleats in place. Connect the sides of the side seams of teh skirt. Connect the side seams of the front and back yoke, except where zipper will be attached. Lay open and flatten the side seams by pinning to the yoke proper, then finish the bottom edge of the yoke where the pleated part of the skirt will be attached. Connect the yoke of the skirt to the pleated part of the skirt. Attach the zipper. Attach the waistband. Finish the hemline by laying open and flattening the side seams by pinning them to the skirt proper. Then hemstitch the hemline. 138 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Kinds of Pleats Pleats are folds or series of folds in fabric. Pleats are made to fit around the waist and hip and then left to fall in crisply pressed folds, giving fullness at the hemline. 1. Box pleat is one of the most common types of pleats. It is formed when two equal folds of fabric are folded away from each other in opposite direstions on the front of a length of fabric. 2. Knife pleats or Accordion Pleats are series of narrow sharply pressed pleats all turned in one direction. 3. Inverted Box Pleats are formed by two equal folds of fabric folded toward one another and they meet at the center of the pleat on the front of the fabric. 4. Kick Pleats are short pleats leading upwards from the bottom hem of garments such as skirts or coats, usually placed at the back. Box Pleats Knife Pleats or Accordion Pleats Inverted Box Pleats Kick Pleat Characteristics of a Well-Fitted Skirt Correct fit is one of the first requirements for a becoming garment. The fabric may be beautiful, the garment design is fashionable, and the construction is perfect, but the appearance can be ruined unless the garment fits you. 139 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Proper fit is necessary for maximum comfort, too. Fitting standards are called “snug,” “easy,” and “loose” with perfect fit described as “easy fit.” Although there are basic guidelines to judge fit, it is an individual matter. Some people insist on wearing only smooth, well-fitted clothing while others are contented with wrinkles, bulges, and binding areas. As you gain more experience, you will be less contented with poorly fitted garments. (Contemporary Clothing, pp.162-163) Judging Fit in Clothing The kind of fit desired in clothing changes with style and fashion as well as personal preference. No definite rules can be set as to the exact way a garment should fit. However, regardless of fashion, style, and personal preference, a well-fitted garment should; a. Appear as if it belongs to you. b. Have ease of movement. c. Be attractive to your figure and appear neither baggy from being too loose nor stretched from being too tight. d. Give you a feeling of ease and comfort with no need to adjust your clothes with every move. It is wise to try on any garment and look at yourself in a full-length mirror. A three-way mirror is even better since it allows you to see the sides and back of the garment without twisting. Here‟s a checklist to see if it really fits you. Checklist of a Well-fitted Garment Criteria 1. Does it flatter your figure? 2. Is the color right for you? 3. Does it hide or disguise a feature you do not want to accent? 4. Does the garment have enough ease to make necessary body movements comfortably? Stretch out your arms. Bend over. Does the garment move with you? 5. Are the darts in the right places? 6. Skirt darts should shape the fullness where it is needed over the hip and stomach areas. 7. Are the seams in the proper places? 8. Does the waistline or belt sit right of the woman‟s body? When a belt is worn, it should not slip above or below the waistline seam. 9. Does the zipper on a garment lie flat against the body without bulging out away from it? 10. Does the hemline falls into an even line around the bottom of the garment? 140 Yes No LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ A skirt should lie smoothly at the waist and hip areas. There should be enough ease so the garment hangs straight from the hips and stomach. Learning Outcome 4 Apply Finishing Touches on Ladies Skirt Finishing Touches Attaching the Zipper 1. With the back skirt facing you, work on the right (hand) side of the back skirt first by pinning the zipper on the skirt. Make sure that the zipper tag is ½ of an inch (1.3 cm.) away from the waistline. This does not prevent the zipper tag to get in the way of the presser foot of the sewing machine. The zipper teeth should be near the fold of the skirt. The head of the pins are positioned up, so that if you will skip hand basting and machine sew at once, it will be easier to pull out the pins. 2. Hand baste the zipper for easy machine sewing. Then remove the pins. 141 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Position the skirt with the end of the zipper facing you in an upside down manner. Machine sew the zipper to the skirt with tje presser foot close to the zipper teeth. It would be ideal if you use a zipper foot instead of a presser foot. 1.Start sewing from the bottom of the zipper, sew until 1 inch (2.5cm.) before the zipper tag. 2.Stop sewing but make sure the machine needle is pressed down on the fabric, then raise the presser foot. 3.Draw up the zipper tag so that the needle will not hit the zipper tag while sewing. Then draw down the presser foot and continue sewing. Make sure both ends of the machine stitches are locked. 4.Work on the left (hand) side of the back skirt by pinning the zipper on the skirt. The pins should be ½ of an inch or (1.3 cm.) away from the fold of the skirt so that zipper teeth will not hit. 142 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5. Hand baste for easy sewing. 6.Machine the zipper from the top of the skirt. 1. Draw down the zipper tag to around 2 inches (5cm.) to avoide the needle from hitting the zipper tag, then machine sew. 2. Stop sewing after 1 inch (2.5 cm.), lift the presser foot up but make sure that the needle is pressed down on the fabric. Draw the zipper tag up, then put down the presser foot and continue sewing. At the bottom, square and put down the presser foot while the needle is pressed down on the fabric and turn the skirt and put down the presser foot and continue sewing to meet the stitches on the other side of the skirt. Make sure both ends are lock stitched. 143 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Waistband Attachment 1. Fold the darts facing the center of the back and front skirts. Pin and hand baste darts in place. 2. Connect the side seams of the front and back skirts together by pinning the side seams together and then machine sewing them. Pin the side seams together from top to bottom. 3. Fold open the side seams of the skirts in such a way that the waistline of both the side seam allowances and the main skirt are aligned. Pin and hand baste these. This is done so that when the waistband is attached to the skirt, the seam allowances may not be sewn up which cause the sides of skirts to be pulled up. 144 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Connecting the Waistband 1. Pin one side of the interfacing (stiffener) throughout the waistband from end to end, touching the sewing line of one side of the waistband. 2. Machine sew this together 1/8 of an inch (0.3 cm.) away from the sewing line of the skirt. 3. Because of the insertion of the interfacing (stiffener), which may occupy extra space, the sewing line of the waistband where the skirt will be connected may need relining. Fold up the waistband where the interfacing is connected and with a pencil or tailor‟s chalk, re-line the sewing line. 145 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Open the zipper of the skirt, then reverse the skirt to its wrong side where you will connect the waistband. 5. Starting from the overlap side of the skirt (the left hand side of the skirt), pin the waist band without the interfacing (stiffener) attachment, leaving a ½ of an inch (1.3 cm.) allowance on the waistband on the wrong side of the skirt. Make sure that the sewing lines of the waistband which may have needed readjustment and the sewing lines of the skirt are aligned when pinned. Pin until you reach the other end of the skirt. Do not cut off the excess waistband, since this will serve as your under-lap allowance. 6. Hand baste this for easy machine sewing. Later on, if you master this technique, you can do machine sewing them directly without hand basting. Remove the pins. 146 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 7. Machine sew together the waistband and the skirt. 8. Fold up the allowance on both ends of the waistband by pinning them. 147 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 9. Fold the center of the waistband as seen in the illustration. Adjust the pins to hold together the other flap of the waistband. Machine sew to close the ends of the waistband. Lock stitch both ends. 10. Cut off the excess allowances. Leaving a ¼ of an inch (0.7cm.) allowance. 11. Reverse the fold by pushing the corners in with your index finger. To get a sharp corner, after reversing, gently push the corner withh trhe sharp point of your scissors. 12. Now, you will be working on the right side of the skirt, so reverse the skirt on its right side. Fold in the waistband allowance and pin the fold on the main skirt. You are now working on the top side or righr side of the skirt. 13. Hand baste where pins are, then, remove the pins. After much practice, there may be no need to hand baste, pin basting may be sufficient before machine sewing. 148 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 14. Machine sew all around the edge of the waistband to close the waistband and finish it neatly. Start machine sewing from one side of the under lap. Lock the end by back stitches. Closing the Waistband with a Button Closure 1. Choose a button and mark the width of the button on the overlap of the waistband where the button hole will be placed on the left (hand) side of the skirt. 2. Make a horizontal line between the side markings. This is where the buttonhole will fall. 3. Machine sew a stitch around the buttonhole to secure the fabric and the interfacing (stiffener) when the buttonhole is cut. 149 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Fold on the center of the buttonhole and pin near the edge of the buttonhole to guard against over cutting. With a pair of scissors, cut along the horizontal line very carefully. 5. Hand stitch the buttonhole to finish it. 6. Close the zipper and lay the overlap of the waistband over the underlap.With a pencil, mark where the button will be attached. 7. Attach the button by hand stitching. How to Make a Buttonhole Stitch 1. Double thread your needle and knot the ends. Thread should just be 10 inches or (25.4cm.) long after it has been knotted. Very long threads tend to knot. 2. Starting from the left, run the needle under the buttonhole slit, and insert the needle out of the fabric. 150 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Pull the needle out until the knot touches the fabric. 4. Run the needle again under the buttonhole slit, and insert the needle out of the fabric. 5. Loop the thread left over right over the needle. 6. Pull the needle outward until the knot is snugly secured on the edge of the buttonhole slit. 7. Continue the stitches using the same procedure, until all the buttonhole slit has been covered with buttonhole stitches. Stitches should be uniform in length and evenly spaced. 8. Lock or secure the buttonhole stitches under the right side of the buttonhole where the knot cannot be seen. Secure back stitching wherein the 151 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ stitches are run over each other for about three times. Cut the excess thread. Folding the Hem with Slit 1. Now that the side seams of the front skirt and the back skirt have been connected, you may finish the edges of the hemline, the way the side seams have been finished. Open the side seam allowances and fold the raw edge of the hemline then machine sew. 2. With the skirt on its right side, fold out the center seams of the back skirt and pin to the skirt. 3. Machine sew on the sewing line to connect the folds to the skirt. Lock by back stitching on both ends to secure the machine stitches. 4. Reverse the bottom hemline allowance by laying your inner finger and pushing in the corner of the fold. 152 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ The edge of a piece of a fabric can be finished with a hem or decorative edge, which is used for crafts and other home furnishings. The style and fabric being used will determine the kind of hem finish. Kinds of Hem Finish How to Hem Stitch 1. Pin baste the fold of the hemline. 2. Hand baste the fold and remove the pins to avoid the thread from getting hooked on the pins while hem stitching. 3. Proceed to hemstitch by using the blanket stitch or the herringbone stitch. (The lower part of the herringbone stitch should not appear on the right side of the skirt. 153 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Knot the end of the stitches by back stitches. This will secure the stitches. Accessories and Accent Suited for Ladies Skirt 1. Belts A belt in a fabric adds beauty as a finishing touch on the garment. Belts should have interfacing, the firmer and more structured the belt, the firmer the interfacing should be. It needs belt loops to support and prevent it from dropping. 2. Tie-belts A tie belt is the easiest of all the belts to make. It can be of any width and made of most fabrics, like cotton for summer dresses, satin and silk for bridal wear. Most tie belts require a light to medium interfacing for support. A fusible interfacing is the best choice as it will stay in place when tied repeatedly. 3. Obi Sash An obi sash is a variation of the traditional sash that is worn with a kimono. This type of sash has a stiffened center piece with softer ties that cross at the back and then wrap to the front and tie. For firm fabric such as silk duplon, satin, or heavy cotton, interfacing is not required for the ties. 154 . . LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Evaluation of Finished Ladies Skirt Threshing out the details of the criteria depends upon class and teacher‟s decision, example of the details are given below. Perfect Student‟s Teacher‟s Score Score Score 1.Materials used (15 points) a. Are the grain lines straight? 5 a. Is the cloth colorfast? 5 c. Do the threads, cloth, zipper, 5 and buttons (if any) match? 2. Style and Color (15 points) a. Is the style appropriate for the 5 wearer? b. Does the color enhance the 5 complexion and flatter the figure? c. Does it follow the Art Principles? 5 3.Worksmanship (35 points) a. Are the seams flat and almost 7 finished? b. Are the darts correctly located 7 and well sewn? c. Are the zipper and other 7 fasteners flat and not shown? d. Are the machine stitches 7 uniform in size and free of snags and tangled? e. Is the hem evenly folded and 7 inconspicuously finished? 4.Fit (15 points) a. Is the garment neither too tight 5 nor too loose? b. Does the shoulder line fall 5 correctly, neither too high nor drooping? c. Is the length appropriate for the 5 wearer? 5.General Appearance (20 points) a. Is the garment becoming to the 10 wearer? b. Does it look like it was made by a 10 professional? TOTAL POINTS 100 155 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Procedure in Pressing the Finished Garment A newly sewn purchased garment or one that is become wrinkled should be presses before wearing. Remove any soiled spots before pressing. The pressed parts of the garment should be moved away from. 1. Press the garment that are free, such as ruffles, ties, sleeves, or collar. 2. Press pockets, collars, cuffs or buttonholes from the right side. 3. Press the under side with details as facings, including pocket linings, and seam allowances. 4. Press the whole garment, the bodice first, then the skirt. 5. Place garment on well-shaped hanger and do not wear until it is well-aired and completely dry. Close the zipper. Remove belt from loops of the garment, and place the belt on the hanger. Good and well-made garments lose the quality if they are wrinkled and untidy. They must be pressed everytime they are worn. Careful pressing and ironing the garments is necessary tobecome attractive and add beauty. Enhancement activity Activity Let the students press the garment parts by following the step-by-step pattern. Supervise them while doing the activity. . Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students P E R F O R M A N C E L E V E L Dimension Excellent (4 pts.) 1. Use of tools and equipment Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently at all times Very Satisfactory (3 pts.) Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently most of the times Satisfactory (2 pts.) Uses tools and equipment correctly and but less confidently sometimes 156 Needs Improvement (1 pt.) Uses tools and equipment incorrectly and less confidently most of the time No Attempt (0 pt.) No attempt Poi nts Ear ned LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Application of procedures Manifests very clear understanding of the step- by-step procedure Manifests clear understandi ng of the step- bystep procedure Manifests understanding of the step-by-step procedure but sometimes seeks clarification Manifests less understanding of the step- by-step procedure seeking clarification most of the time No attempt Works independently with ease and confidence at all times Works independent ly with ease and confidence most of the time Observes safety precautions most of the time Task is completed following the procedures in the project plan Work completed within allotted time Works independently with ease and confidence sometimes Works independently but with assistance from others most of the time No attempt Observes safety precautions sometimes Most of the time not observing safety precautions No attempt Task is nearly completed following the procedures in the project plan Task is started but not completed following the procedures in the project plan No attempt Work completed ___(mins./hours/d ays) beyond Work completed ___(mins./hours/d ays) beyond No attempt 3. Safety work habits Observes safety precautions at all times 4.Completen ess of Task Task is completed following the procedures in the activity improvement/innovat ions Work completed ahead of time 5. Time management TOTAL POINTS Labelling of Garments Labels for fabric serves as the consumer‟s protection for the garment‟s washability, colorfastness, fiber content, and the special knowledge needed to care for garments. Labelling of garments is very important. Customers look at the label first before buying a ready-to-wear garment. It can be seen at the end of the belt, the tag attached to the garment, or information printed along the selvage of the fabric. There are different labels used in garments with their specific purpose. 1. Brand or Main Label – indicates the brand name or brand logo of company where the garment comes from. Customers who like branded items simply look at the label and they easily pick and buy the items. A brand label should have the product quality. Examples of brand labels are Levis, Lee, Tommy Hilfiger for t-shirts, Adidas for shoes, Zara for dresses, and many more. 157 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Size Label- has the specific measurements of human body such as S for small, M for medium, L for large or XL for extra large. Buyers would prefer to look at to the size label to see which one fits his/her size. 3. Care Label – includes wash care and ironing instructions. This is attached at side seam to warn wearers on what to do during washing, drying or ironing to maintain the color, design, shrinkage ability and composition that makes up the garment. Example, 60% cotton, 40% polyester. This also includes the country where it is made like “Made in the Philippines”, “Made in USA”, etc. 4. Flag Label- is a small label attached at side seam with printed brand logo. Some garments especially T-shirts have flag label embroidered or printed at the upper right side of the garment as design feature. 5. Manufacturer Label -includes manufacturer‟s code for the buyers who wants to order the items from different parts of the world. 6. Batch Mark Label – indicates which sewing line or batch had made the particular garment. Only few garment manufacturers add this label for the internal quality inspection process and rectify which line had made the garment and which checker had check the same. This is normally attached at side seam under wash care label. 7. Special Label – is normally attached to draw customer‟s attention at the time of purchase. Examples are 100% cotton, Organic Cotton, etc. Kinds of Packaging Materials When transported by truck, outer clothing is often carried as hanging garments , while other clothing items are generally transported in folding cartons and primarily containerized. Hanging garments must be inserted into tight-fitting individual dust covers, sealed at the bottom. When outer clothing is shipped in folding cartons, it is essential, in particular for higher quality goods, for the folding cartons to be lined with tissue paper or the like, the individual items to be secured and interlayer. The cartons often consist of wet resistant corrugated board. 158 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Types of Packing in Finishing Section 1. Stand up pack: Shirt (90 angle) 2. Flat pack: Sportswears/shirts/trousers 3. Hanger pack: Blazers, coats, pants 4. Semi-stand up pack: shirts 5. Half fold pack: Pants Types of Carton/Plastic Packing 1. Solid color, solid size pack 2. Solid color, assorted size pack 3. Assorted color, solid size pack 4. Assorted color, assorted size pack Packs may be as: 1. 12 pcs/ carton 2. 24 pcs/carton 3. 36 pcs/pack A. Plastic Packaging 159 Figure 4 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ B. Paper-based Packaging C. Combined Plastic and Cardboard Packaging 160 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Procedures in Packing Finished Garment Packing is one of the most important parts in garment manufacturing process. After completing the procedures in making a garment, it is required to be packed in the finishing section. Packing is the last step before storing. The finished garment is placed in a carton as per instruction and delivered to the store for selling. Check points in finishing department consists 1. Initial finishing inspection: The checking is done prior to pressing of the garment at finishing room is known as initial finishing. 2. Final finishing Inspection: After pressing the garments they are checked again and passed for tagging and packing. 3. Internal final audit: After the garments are packed to certain quantity, the quality control team, do the internal final audit of packed garments. Enhancement activity Activity Test student’s skill in the proper packaging of finished product (skirt). A group activity that would encourage them to be competitive, yet observing quality standard in packaging finished output. 161 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Rubrics in Evaluating the Performance of the Students P E R F O R M A N C E L E V E L Dimension Excellent (4 pts.) 1. Use of tools and equipment Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently at all times 2. Application of procedures Manifests very clear understanding of the step- by-step procedure Works independently with ease and confidence at all times 3. Safety work habits Observes safety precautions at all times 4.Completen ess of Task Task is completed following the procedures in the activity improvement/innovati ons 5. Time management Work completed ahead of time Very Satisfactory (3 pts.) Satisfactory (2 pts.) Needs Improvement (1 pt.) No Attem pt (0 pt.) No attem pt Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently most of the times Manifests clear understandi ng of the step- bystep procedure Uses tools and equipment correctly and but less confidently sometimes Uses tools and equipment incorrectly and less confidently most of the time Manifests understanding of the step-by-step procedure but sometimes seeks clarification Manifests less understanding of the step- by-step procedure seeking clarification most of the time No attem pt Works independen tly with ease and confidence most of the time Observes safety precautions most of the time Task is completed following the procedures in the project plan Work completed within allotted time Works independently with ease and confidence sometimes Works independently but with assistance from others most of the time No attem pt Observes safety precautions sometimes Most of the time not observing safety precautions No attem pt Task is nearly completed following the procedures in the project plan Task is started but not completed following the procedures in the project plan No attem pt Work completed ___(mins./hours/d ays) beyond Work completed ___(mins./hours/d ays) beyond No attem pt TOTAL POINTS 162 Point s Earne d LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Let’s See How Much You Have Learned Post Test 1 A. Multiple Choice Directions: Read the statements carefully. Write the letter that best describes the statement. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. Type of cloth that has the following characteristics: absorbency, heat conduction, strength and beauty. a. Cotton Gabardine c. Linen b. Poplin d. Broadcloth 2. Type of cloth which is also called tabinet. a. Gingham c. Linen b. Poplin d. Gingham 3. Type of test that is used to determine slippage of threads by pulling the fabric from both sides of the tuck. a. Test by pin c. Test by thumb b. Test for sizing d. Test for straight of grain 4. Type of test that determines the strength and shape-holding qualities of both lengthwise and crosswise of fabrics. a. Test by pin c. Test by Thumb b .Test for sizing d. Test for sizing 5. A type of skirt which is small at the waist and widens evenly as it reaches the ground. a. Straight skirt c. Pleated skirt b. Gathered skirt d. A-line skirt 6. A type of skirt which is gathered at the waist and set into a band to look more fitted to the hips. a. Straight skirt c. Pleated skirt b. Gathered skirt d. A-line skirt 7. The skirt that has fullness all around the hem where soft ruffles goes up toward the waist from the bottom. a. Gored skirt c. Pleated skirt b. Flared skirt d. Gathered skirt 8. It is the fabric between the fabric edge and the stitched seam line. a. Seams c. Tucks b. Darts d. Gathers 9. They are like darts with a point and serve the same purpose as a dart except they release fullness the larger parts of the body. a. Seams c. Tucks b. Darts d. Gathers 163 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 10. It is the process of joining two pieces of fabric the one is slightly longer than the other to have extra fullness for ease of movement rather than decoration. a. Stitching c. Pleating b. Easing d. Gathering 11. They are folds of fabric which gives fashion and interest to clothing. a. Facings c. Pleats b. Darts d. Gathers 12. It is an extra fabric cut the same shape as the facing and inserted between the facing and the garment to prevent stretching and sagging. a. Interfacing c. Lining b. Underlining d. Interlining 13. The measurement around the waistline. a. Lower hip c. Waistline b. Skirt length d. Lower hip level 14. It gives the dressmaker a blueprint of what a garment will look like. a. Sketching c. Measuring b. Pattern drafting d. Sewing 15.Darts, buttonholes, pleats, tucks, and pockets placement are examples of a. Grainline markings c. Dots b. Seamline d. Construction marks B. True or False Directions. Write True if the statement is correct and False if the statement is wrong. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. __________1. Construction lines show where to cut the pieces. __________2. Adding extra width along the entire side seam will make the waistline smaller. __________3. Pattern layout helps determine if the patterns are enough for the fabric. __________4. When cutting the fabric, it is advisable to walk around the table instead of pulling the fabric towards you. __________5. After cutting, remove the pins of the patterns immediately from the fabric. __________6. In transferring marks onto the fabric, start with the small pattern pieces to finish the job earlier. __________7. Pressing straighten the grain lines and preshrink fabric. __________8. Do not press the seam before cross-stitching it with another seam. __________9. The sequencing for the unit of construction of the different parts of the skirt is basically the same for all skirt types. __________10. Zippers are generally used for placket closure. 164 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ C. Identification Directions. Identify the words(s) that best describes the statements. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. ________1. What color calls out the silhouette, or outline figure of a human body? ________2. What color is used to call attention to your body features? ________3. The color which best suggests activity, energy, and gaiety. ________4. The color which is produced when yellow and violet color pigments mixed in equal amounts. ________5. The family name of a color. ________6. What refers to the brightness or dullness of a color? ________7. The color harmony produced when two colors are opposite each other on the color wheel. ________8. What makes red, yellow, and blue in a color scheme? ________9. What group of color is formed when red, yellow, and orange are placed in a group? _______10. What type of fabric makes you look larger because it adds width and size to the apparent size of your figure? D. Matching Type Directions. Match the descriptions given in (Column A) with the types of lines given in Column B. Write the letter of your answer in your quiz notebook. Column A(Descriptions) Column B (Types of Lines) 1. Feminine a. Curved 2. Masculine b. Vertical 3. Short and/ or wide c. Straight 4. Tall and/ or slender d. Diagonal 5. Tall or short depending e. Horizontal on the angle. F. Broken Line 165 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ E. Identification Directions. Name the following illustrations of skirts below. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 2. 1. 3. 4. 5. 6. 166 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 7. B. Identify the body measurements of a skirt 1. 2. . 3. 167 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ QUARTER II Overview A blouse is usually a loose-fitting garment especially for women, it covers the body from the neck to the waist. It is often a formal shirt. In today‟s generation, dressmakers are very creative in creating different styles of blouses to catch the buyer‟s attention. The never-ending evolution in fashion does not bring changes in the standard procedure in creating and in sewing the kind of blouse a sewer may make. Nevertheless, adding some accents, designs and accessories makes a blouse more attractive and in fashion. This chapter covers the outcomes required in drafting and cutting basic/block patterns for ladies blouse, assembling and applying the finishing touches of the blouse. There are various types of ladies blouse suited to different personalities. The drafting of patterns of the different parts of a blouse are presented for you to have your option in selecting which type or style of blouse you want to have. General Objectives At the end of the module, learners are expected to: 1. 2. 3. 4. perform how to draft and cut ladies blouse; prepare and cut materials for ladies blouse; assemble garment parts for ladies blouse; and apply finishing touches on ladies blouse. Let’s See What You Know Pre- Test 2 A. Multiple Choice Directions: Read the statements carefully. Choose the letter that best describes the statement. Write the answer in your quiz notebook. 1. It generally refers to a tailored shirt. a. Pants b. Trousers c. Blouse d. Shirts 168 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. A kind of blouse that has a great style for most body types and 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. features a surplice collar, which overlaps fabric into a v-shaped neckline. a. Button-Down b. Peasant c. Casual d. Surplice Wrap This type of blouse is popular because its style can be worn by many body types and in various settings. a. Surplice Wrap b. Button-down c. Peasant d. Casual A blouse which emphasizes free-flowing materials. a. Peasant b. Casual c. Surplice Wrap d. Button-down This is egg shaped that is rounded at the top and slightly elongated at the chin. a. Round b. Square c. Triangle d. None of the above The top is wider than the ear side going smaller to the chin. The use of wider necklines is helpful. a. Heart b. Triangle c. Square d. Oval Rounded at the top and slightly curved at the chin like a human heart. The shape fits to almost all kinds of necklines. a. Heart b. Round c. Oblong d. Oval In a round-shaped face, a type of neckline suitable is a. Round, V-Neck b. Round, Square c. Square, Sabrina d. V-necklines A type of neckline suitable for Square-shaped face. a. Round, V-neck 169 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ b. Round, Square c. Square, Sabrina d. V-necklines 10. These are tops that have been tailored to be worn with jeans or trousers. a. Peasant b. Surplice Wrap c. Casual d. Button-down B. Filling the blanks Directions: Fill-in the blanks with the correct word (s) that best describe(s )the statement. 1. Procedure in drafting a Round Neckline. 1. 2. 3. 4. Trace the basic bodice _______ A-B is ___ cm. A-C is ___ cm. D-E is __ cm. Shape the neckline from C, B, and E. 5. Measure ___ cm for the zipper allowance from E. 2. Procedure in drafting V-neckline 1. Trace the ____ bodice pattern 2. A-B is ___ cm. 3. ___ is measuring 16 cm. from shoulder. 4. D-E is ___ cm. 5. From ___ measure 2.5 cm for zipper allowance. C. Identification. Directions: Identify the type described in each statement. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. The type of neckline curve which has the same shape as the neckline of the garment. 2. Part of a shirt, coat, dress, blouse, etc., that encompasses the neckline of the garment and is sewn permanently into it. 3. A collar that stands up slightly from the point of attachment to the neckline of a garment before folding over to lie flat. 170 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. A flat collar with rounded ends that meet at the front. 5. A collar that is found in garment with front openings, can be worn either in an open style or in a closed style. 6. A sleeve that has an arm seam inside the shoulder width. 7. A sleeve that is fitted at the wrist but cut with a deep armhole and resembles a cape from the back. 8. Measurement taken from left to right shoulder tip bone. 9. Measurement taken across the back halfway down the shoulder. 10. A measurement taken around the smallest part of the body. D. True or False Directions: Write T if the statement is true and F, if the statement is false. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. Chest measurement is taken by measuring one arm joint to the other arm joint. 2. Waist measurement is taken around the arm where the sleeve length ends. 3. Lower Arm Girth is taken around the fullest part of the arm 2-3 inches below the armpit. 4. Apex Height measurement is taken from the shoulder neck tip bone down to the apex point 5. Upper Arm Girth is taken around the arm in line with the armpit. 6. Apex Distance is approximately 7 inches down the waistline with the tape measure passing around the hip. 7. Sleeve length is taken around the fullest part of the hip. E. ANALOGY Directions: Supply the measurement needed for a blouse which Matches the given word at the left. Measurements needed for a blouse. 1. Shoulder:________ 2. Figure:________ 3. Bust:______ 4. _________:Sleeve Length 5. _________: Sleeve Width 6. Waist Measure:_______ 7. _______:Hip Measure 8. ________: First Hip 171 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ F. Enumeration Directions: Write what is asked for in the statements below. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1-5 Types of fabrics suited for ladies blouse 1. ______________________________________ 2. ______________________________________ 3. ______________________________________ 4. ______________________________________ 5. ______________________________________ LESSON 1 PRODUCE LADIES’ BLOUSE Learning Outcome 1 Draft and Cut Pattern for Ladies Blouse Objectives At the end of this lesson, you are expected to: 1. 2. 3. 4. draft and cut ladies blouse; prepare and cut materials for ladies blouse; assemble garment parts for ladies blouse; and apply finishing touches on ladies blouse. The garment industry is now in its steadfast process to meet the increasing demand in the latest fashion especially in garment apparel. Textile designers come up with simple and fabulous designs that people around would patronize and buy the product. In everyday walks of life, the trend in fashion will always be developing from time to time. People‟s needs will determine the supply and demand in the garment industy. Kinds of Blouse A blouse is a tailored shirt, usually lightweight, loose-fitting garment for women and children. It covers the body from the neck or shoulders more or less to the waistline, with or without a collar and sleeves. It is worn inside or outside a skirt, slacks for aesthetic purposes and for comfort. 172 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 1. Button-Down Blouses Button-down blouses are popular because their style can be worn by many body types and in various settings. This kind of blouse features a neck collar and buttons attached to the front of the garment (as the name suggests). The button-down style is seen mostly in formal and business settings; it complements dress pants and business suits. However, when worn with a pair or jeans or shorts, button-down blouses are appropriate for casual events. 173 Surplice Wrap Blouses A wrap blouse is another great style for most body types and features a surplice collar, which overlaps fabric into a V-shaped neckline. This vertical neckline gives the appearance of a longer torso. The crisscrossed material breaks up the chest and the stomach area -making the upper body seem smaller than it might actually be. Surplice wrap blouses are made with or without sleeves. They can be worn alone or under another garment such as a denim jacket or work blazer. LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Peasant Blouses Blouses are also available in the peasant style, which emphasizes free-flowing materials. Peasant blouses were fashionable in the 1960s and typically had a square neckline, puffy sleeves and cinched waist. Later, alterations have kept one some or all of these elements portray a careful casual look. A peasant blouse should be matched with tight-fitting clothing for the lower body. The narrowness of skinny jeans or a pencil skirt would balance out the billowing fabric of a peasant blouse. Casual Blouse These are tops that have been tailored to be worn with jeans or trousers. They can also be worn with tights and may be in the form of shirts or tunics. Blouses that go for skirts can be short and plain. Some are formal blouses and are worn with high skirts. Types of Fabrics Suited for Ladies Blouse Fabric is the cloth or textile used in the construction of blouses or any other garment. It is important to choose the best quality of the fabric suited for blouses so that the wearer will be comfortable. Fabric for blouses is selected in consideration to the type of occasion, weather conditions, and with the type of skirt or pants being paired to. Type of Fabric Characteristics Voile is a lightweight, semi-sheer fabric with a great drape. Cotton voile 174 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Rayon challis is a smooth, lightweight fabric. It drapes well and is slightly heavier than other lightweight fabrics, like cotton voile and cotton lawn. rayon challis Silk is a lightweight, delicate fabric that drapes well. It has a slightly shimmery appearance. Silk can be slippery and more difficult to work with. It also makes a great lining fabric. silk Cotton Lawn is very similar to cotton voile but is slightly crispier. cotton lawn Linen is a medium-weight fabric with little elasticity. It conducts heat and is a popular choice for warm weather. linen 175 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Chambray is another smooth, lightweight fabric. It doesn‟t drape as well as rayon challis, cotton voile or cotton lawn. chambray Flannel is a soft, lightweight fabric. It works well for colder-temperature shirts, pants and jackets are more appropriate suits to be worn. Flannel Review of Learning Outcome 1 Identification. Directions. Name the following types of skirt fabrics. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. _______1. It. is a soft, lightweight fabric. It works well for colder-temperature shirts, pants and jackets are more appropriate suits to be worn. _______2. It is a lightweight, semi-sheer fabric with a great drape. _______3. It is another smooth, lightweight fabric. It doesn‟t drape as well as rayon challis, cotton voile or cotton lawn. _______4. It is a medium-weight fabric with little elasticity. But it conducts heat and is a popular choice for warm-weather. _______5. It is very similar to cotton voile but is slightly crisper. Types of Necklines Necklines frame the neck and face, and one of the most noticeable parts of a garment. Neckline styles vary from the simplest plain faced neckline, to the 176 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ more complex bound neckline, to the tailored front placket opening which must be stitched with great accuracy. It is best to work on the neckline when only the garment shoulder seams are joined, so that the neckline can be opened out flat. The neckline is the edge of the garment opening surrounding the neck. There are different types of necklines. In choosing which types are sable for you, consider the shape of the neck and face. Different Shapes of Face Oval/ Oblong This is egg shaped that is round at the top and slightly elongated at the chin. It is the most sought after shape of face among designers. Round This resembles the shape of a moon where necklines should be given careful considerations. Square The top head is equal with the jaw. Close necklines will do justice to the top shape of the face. V-necklines is becoming Round, V-neck Square, Sabrina to this shape. appropriate to neckline is becoming to shape. this shape. is this Heart Triangle Round at the top and slightly curved The top is wider than the ear side at the chin like human heart. The going smaller to the chin. The use of shape is fitting to almost all kinds of wider necklines is helpful. necklines. Please see figure. Round, Square neckline is becoming Round, Square neckline is becoming to this shape. to this shape. 177 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Shape of Necklines . Round Shape The straight or bias binding can bind the neck all the way round or it can be extended to for a small bow tie U-shape A type of neckline that has the shape of a letter “U”. Square : A true square neck which is bound or faced depends upon clipping for success. Sabrina A neckline that appears to be a slit across the top of the shoulders and neck, secured along the collar bone, hence a boat neckline. 178 V-shape A neckline that lies flat and in the shape of a “v”. LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Types of Sleeves Sleeve is the part of a garment that covers the arm, or through which the arm passes or slips. 1. Puff Sleeves is a type of sleeve that are gathered at the shoulders and caught in at the cuff to create an inflated, puffy effect 2. Kimono is a sleeve cut in one piece with the bodice 179 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Raglan Sleeve is a sleeve that has an arm seam inside the shoulder width. 4. Dolman Sleeve A sleeve that is fitted at the wrist but cut with a deep armhole and resembles a cape from the back. 180 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Review of Learning Outcome 1 Identification. Directions. Identify the following that is being described and illustrate to complete the table. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. Name Description 1. A type of neckline that has the shape of a letter “U”. 2. A neckline that appears to be a slit across the top of the shoulders and neck, secured along the collar bone, hence a boat neckline. 3. A sleeve cut in one piece with the bodice 4. A sleeve that is fitted at the wrist but cut with a deep armhole and resembles a cape from the back. 5. The straight or bias binding can bind the neck all the way round or it can be extended to for a small bow tie 181 Illustration LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Collars Collars are made up and attached to the garment before the underarm is sewn or the sleeves are set in. There are three main methods of attaching collars: 1. With a collar that is self-neatening. This is always a simple collar with a straight neck edge , used on a shirt styled neckline 2. With the use of facing, a method suitable for straight or curved collars 3. With the use of a crossway strip, a method generally for curved collars. Shoulder seams should be stitched and neatened before attaching the collar Types of Collars Collar is the part of a shirt, coat, dress, blouse, etc., that encompasses the neckline of the garment and is sewn permanently to it, often so as to fold or roll over. 1. Flat Collar Flat collars have neckline curves that are of the same shape as the neckline of the garment. This allows them to lie flat on the garment with no roll or stand onto neck. Flat collars are popular on children‟s clothes because children have short necks. On adult garments they create a youthful feeling. 2. Rolled Collar A collar that stands up slightly from the point of attachment to the neckline of a garment before folding over to lie flat. 3. Convertible Collar A type of collar that can give a garment a versatile look. Found in garments with front openings, this is a collar that can be worn in either of two ways, in an open style and in a closed style. Convertible collars are attached to the garment neckline, and the collar facing, which incorporates the raw edges during the sewing process. It ensures that the garment looks good whichever way the collar is being worn. This means that there is no right side and wrong side to a convertible collar, but both sides are equally well-finished. 182 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Peter Pan Collar A flat collar with rounded ends that meet at the front of the shirt/blouse. Types of Facing and Interfacing INTERFACING Interfacings are special fabrics used to strengthen or stiffen specific parts of a garment, such as collar, cuffs, facing and pocket tops. They are made in light, medium and heavyweight to match the fabric weights, and can be either fusible or sewn-in. The latter type is preferable on sheer and fine fabrics where fusible adhesive might show through the fabric. For general use, nonwoven interfacings are ideal. For more advanced work and for tailoring, woven interfacing are available. On sheer fabric, matching organza or lawn can be used instead of interfacing. Applying Interfacing to a Facing: All Facing requires Interfacing. The interfacing is to give structure to the facing and to hold it in shape. A fusible interfacing is the best choice and it should be cut on the same grain as the facing. Choose an interfacing that is lighter in weight than the main fabric. INTERFACING FOR HEAVY FABRIC Right side of facing INTERFACING FOR LIGHT FABRIC Right side of facing For a heavy weight fabric use a mediumweight fusible interfacing. Remove the seam allowance on the interfacing on the inner curve to reduce bulk. For a light to medium weight fabric, choose a lightweight interfacing and fuse it over the complete facing 183 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 1. Armhole facing On sleeveless garments, a facing is an excellent way of neatening an armhole because it is not bulky. The facing is made in the same fabric as the garment. 2.Extended Facing A facing is not always a separate unit. Many garments, especially blouses, feature what is known as an extended facing, which is where the facing is an extension of the front of the garment, cut out at the same time. 3. Facing a Slashed Neckline A slashed V-neckline occurs at either thee center front or the center back neck edge. It enables a close-fitting neckline to open sufficiently to go over the head. Review of Learning Outcome 4 Identification Directions. Identify the following being described. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. These collars have neckline curves that are of the same shape as the neckline of the garment. 2. A flat collar with rounded ends that meet at the front. 3. It indicates that a facing is not always a separate unit, and could be an extension of the front of the garment, cut out at the same time. 4. It occurs at either the center front or the center back neck edge. 5. A collar that stands up slightly from the point of attachment to the neckline of a garment before folding over to lie flat. 184 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Types of Pockets Pockets come in lots of shapes and formats. Some, such as patch pockets are external and can be decorative, while others, including front hip pockets, are more discreet and hidden from view. They can be made from the same fabric as the garment or from a contrasting fabric. Whether casual or tailored, all pockets are functional. 1. Patch Pockets The pocket is formed by top stitching a „patch‟ of fabric on to the right side of the garment. The top edge is neatened by: a. Turning a plain hem approx. 1.25 cm on to wrong side and hemming in place. b. Turning a plain or shaped hem on to the right side and top stitching the hem in place. Attaching a straight or shaped facing of self fabric on or of a contrasting decorative fabric Body Measurements for Ladies Blouse The dress you wear should fit well. Proper fit depends greatly upon accurate body measurements. No matter how expensive the dress material is. If the dress does not fit well, you will not look at your best nor feel comfortable in it. On the other hand, the dress material maybe inexpensive, but if the dress fits you well, you will not only feel comfortable but will also look good in it. Measurements Needed for a Blouse: Shoulder Figure Apex Height Apex Distance Bust Chest Across Back Waist Measure Upper Arm Girth Lower Arm Girth Sleeve Length Sleeve Width Blouse Length Hip Measure -First Hip -Second hip 185 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Procedure in Taking Body Measurement for Ladies Blouse Shoulder-Measurement taken from left to right shoulder tip bone. Across Back -Measurement taken across the back halfway down the shoulder. Blouse Length -Measurement taken from the nape down to the desired length Chest-Measurement taken from where the arm joint to the body to the other arm joint Bust -Measurement taken around the body with the tape measure passing over the fullest part of the apex point in front and over the fullest part of the shoulder blade at the back Waist Measure- Measurement taken around the smallest part of the body (waist) Lower Arm Girth -Taken around the fullest part of the arm 2-3 inches below the armpit. Sleeve Width-Measurement taken around the arm from where the sleeve length measure ends. 186 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Figure-Measurement taken from the shoulder neck tip bone with the tape measure passing over the apex point down to the natural waistline. Apex Height -Measurement taken from the shoulder neck tip bone down to the apex point. Sleeve Length-Measurement taken around the arm from the shoulder tip bone down to the desired length Upper Arm Girth-(armhole) Taken around the arm in line with the armpit. Apex Distance-Measurement taken from left to right of the apex point Hip Measure First HipMeasurement taken approximately 7 inches down from the waistline with the tape measure passing around the hip. Second Hip- Measurement taken around the fullest part of the Procedures in Drafting Basic/Block Pattern for Ladies Blouse Front Bodice Basic/Block Pattern for Blouse Draw a construction line and mark the corner as point A. A-B 3 inches A-C front figure measurement A-D is apex height measurement 187 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ A-E is 2 ½ inches A-F is ½ chest measurement A-G `is ½ shoulder measurement A-H is ¼ bust measurement A-M is the blouse length, extend ½ inch . G-I is 1 inch I–J is 4 inches in line with letter F C-P is ½ apex distance minus ½ inch D-O is ½ apex distance C-L is ¼ waistline measurement plus 1 inch H-K From H, measure ½ of the armhole downward P-R is 1 inch Q is the center of P and R M-N is ¼ hip measurement S Measure 5 inches downward for the dart and connect them. Back Part Basic/Block Pattern for Blouse Draw a construction line and mark the corner as point A. A-B A-C A-D A-E A-F 1 inch Back figure measurement is apex height measurement is 2 ½ inches is ½ across back measurement A-G `is ½ shoulder measurement A-H is ¼ bust measurement A-M is the blouse length G-I is 1 inch I–J is 4 inches in line with letter F C-P is ½ apex distance minus ½ inch D-O is ½ apex distance C-L is ¼ waistline measurement plus 1 inch H-K From H, measure ½ of the armhole downward P-R is 1 inch Q is the center of P and R M-N is ¼ hip measurement 188 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ S Measure 5 inches downward for the dart and connect them. Connect points EB, IJK, using French curve KL, EI, MN,using ruler. Enhancement activity Activity Directions: Get your pattern paper, pencil and ruler (L-square and hip curve). Draft the Front and Back Blouse Pattern following your own measurements. Rubrics in Drafting the Front and Back Blouse Pattern P E R F O R M A N C E Dimension Excellent (4 pts.) 1. Use of tools and equipment Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently at all times 2. Application of procedures Manifests very clear understanding of the step- by-step procedure Works independently with ease and confidence at all times 3. Safety work habits Observes safety precautions at all times 4.Completen ess of Task Task is completed following the procedures in the activity Very Satisfactory (3 pts.) Satisfactory (2 pts.) L E V E L Needs Improvement (1 pt.) No Attem pt (0 pt.) No attem pt Uses tools and equipment correctly and confidently most of the times Manifests clear understandi ng of the step- bystep procedure Uses tools and equipment correctly and but less confidently sometimes Uses tools and equipment incorrectly and less confidently most of the time Manifests understanding of the step-by-step procedure but sometimes seeks clarification Manifests less understanding of the step- by-step procedure seeking clarification most of the time No attem pt Works independen tly with ease and confidence most of the time Observes safety precautions most of the time Task is completed following the Works independently with ease and confidence sometimes Works independently but with assistance from others most of the time No attem pt Observes safety precautions sometimes Most of the time not observing safety precautions No attem pt Task is nearly completed following the procedures in the Task is started but not completed following the procedures in the No attem pt 189 Point s Earne d LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ improvement/innovati ons 5. Time management Work completed ahead of time procedures project plan in the project plan Work Work completed completed ___(mins./hours/d within ays) beyond allotted time TOTAL POINTS project plan Work completed ___(mins./hours/d ays) beyond No attem pt The following parts are presented for you to have options on what style of blouse you are going to make. Remember that pattern drafting of various parts of blouses will depend on the style and design of the blouse. Let’s Do it! Drafting Pattern for Various Types of Necklines There are different kinds of necklines which suit different personalities and shapes of face. Knowing how to draft different necklines will help you in the construction of garments for yourself and for others. Procedure in Drafting a Round Neckline 1. Trace the basic bodice pattern 2. A-B is 3.5 cm 3. A-C is 4 cm 4. D-E is 3 cm. Shape the neckline from C, B and E. 5. Measure 2.5 c for the zipper allowance from E. Procedure in Drafting a Square Neckline 1. Trace the basic bodice pattern 2. A-B is 4 cm 3. C is measuring 16 cm from shoulder 4. D is measuring 10 cm from shoulder 5. Shape neckline from C, B, and D 6. From F measure 2.5 cm for zipper allowance 190 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Procedure in Drafting V-neckline 1. Trace the basic bodice pattern 2. A-B is 2.5 cm 3. C is measuring 16 cm from shoulder 4. D-E is 3.5 cm 5. From E measure 2.5 cm for zipper allowance Procedure in Drafting U- neckline 1. Trace the basic bodice pattern 2. A-B is 2.5 cm 3. C is measuring 16 cm from shoulder 4. D is lowering back neckline by 2.5 cm 5. Shape neckline from C, B, and D 6. E from D is measuring 2.5 cm for zipper allowance. Trace the basic front and back bodice pattern Mark the meeting point of the back and the front as point A. A-B measure 2.5 cm A-C measure 16 cm D-E lower the back neckline by 2.5 cm. Shape the neckline from points B, C to E. E-F measure 2.5 cm outward for the zipper allowance. Procedure in Drafting Sabrina Neckline 1. Trace the basic bodice pattern 2. A-B is raising by 2 cm 3. B-C is center of shoulder. Join B to C with a slight curve. 191 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Review of Learning Outcome 5 Filling the blanks. Directions: Write the correct answer in your quiz notebook. _______1. How many cm is being raised from pt A-B in drafting Sabrina neckline. _______2. What is the 1st step in drafting any of the various types of necklines? _______3. How do we connect pt. B to C in drafting Sabrina neckline? _______4. How many cm is intended for the zipper allowance? _______5. What neckline is measuring 16 cm from shoulder to pt C. Rubrics: If you got 1-2; you are good; 2-4 very good; 5 perfect score, outstanding Congrats for a job well done! Let’s Do it! Drafting Patterns for Type of Sleeves To make the sleeves comfortable, it should be well fitted to the wearer. This lies on how accurate and correct sleeves are drafted. Following are steps in drafting the different kinds of sleeves. Inserting a Set-in Sleeve A set-in sleeve should feature a smooth sleeve head that fits at the end of your shoulder accurately. This is achieved by the use of ease stitches, which are long stitches used to tighten the fabric but not to gather it. 192 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Procedure Illustration 1. Sew the side seams and the shoulder seams on the garment and press them open. 2. Sew the seam of the sleeve and press open. Neaten seams. Turn the sleeve to the right side. 3. Around the sleeve head, work two rows of long stitches between the notches – one row at 3/8in (1cm) from the edge and the second row at ½in (1.3 cm). These are the ease stitches. 4. Place the sleeve into the armhole, right side to right side. Match the underarm seams and the notches. 5. Match the highest point of the sleeve to the shoulder. 6. Pull up the stitches until the sleeve fits neatly in the armhole. 7. Pin from the sleeve side. 193 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 8. Sew the sleeve in, starting at the underarm seam, using a 5/8in (1.5cm) seam allowance Sew so that the sleeve is uppermost and sew straight over the shoulder. 9. Overlap the seam at the underarm to reinforce the seam. 10. Sew around the sleeve again 3/8in (1cm) inside the seam allowance. 11. Trim the raw edges of the sleeve. 12. Neaten the seam with a zigzag or serger stitch, then turn the sleeve through the armhole. 194 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Drafting Short Puff Sleeve Short Puff Sleeve Puff sleeves is a type of sleeves of a women's garment that are gathered at the shoulders and caught in at the cuff to create an inflated, puffy effect 1. Trace foundation sleeve pattern 2. Design slashes starting from the girth going to the top part of the sleeve 3. Open the slashes and spread them proportionally up to the desired fullness needed 4. Trace the sleeve with a flared effect. The flare will be in such a way that there is enough fullness necessary to make a puff. 195 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Let’s Do it! Drafting Patterns for Different Kinds of Collars Collars vary in sizes and shapes. These will depend upon the wearer. Regardless of the type of collar you are making, your arm should be an underneath layer which does not show. Different types of collars are drafted in different ways. Drafting Flat Collar 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. On folded pattern paper, draw horizontal line and mark the corner as A. AB is width of collar. Extend point B. AC is ½ neck measurement BD is same as AC. Connect points CD CG is 2 cm Rise D to H by 1 cm. Connect points H and G. Drafting Rolled Collar 196 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. On folded pattern paper, draw horizontal line and mark corner as A. AB is 7cm width of collar AC is ½ neck measurement BD is same as AC. Connect points C,D. BF is 15 cm Connect points B and D. Connect F and D with a slight curve. Drafting Convertible Collar 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. On folded pattern paper, draw horizontal line and mark A. A-B is the width of the collar A-C is ½ of the neck measurement B-D is same as A-C D-E is raising by 1 cm 197 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 6. C-F is 2 cm. Connect points E and F. 7. G is the center of A and C 8. H is the center of Band D 9. F-I is raising by 1 cm 10. Shape the collar fro G to I and H to E. Drafting Mandarin Collar 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Measure the base neck circumference. Then divide by two. Square out both ways from A. A-B is 3 cm A-E is ½ of neck measurement A-D is center of A and E E to E1 is raised by 1.90 cm C to C1 is 2.54 cm Bend A, E1 from point D with a slight curve. Do the same for B, C1. Shape the collar from C1 and E 1 Drafting Peter Pan Collar Trace the basic bodice pattern Lower from shoulder by 2.5 cm C-D is collar width up to back neckline D-E is moving inward by 2.5 cm. F-G is same as C and D From G, shape collar slightly rounded towards C and E. 198 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Making up of a Straight Collar 1. Place the two pieces of collar with right side together and matching fitting line. Pin tack and machine stitch trough the fitting lines on the three sides of the collar, start and finish the stitching at neck fitting line (see illustration below) Alternative method where collar is cut in one piece, fold right side together matching the fitting lines and stitch end lines, finishing at neck fitting line. Remove tacks and press. 2. Trim turning to 0.3 cm and trim off corners 3. Turn collar right side out and bring stitched line up on the fold, tack 199 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ around the edge to the neck fitting line. If fabric is slippper baste the two layers together Note: If the outer edge of collar is curved, snip V-shaped notches out of the turning along the curve. Attaching a Straight Self-Neatening Collar 1. Make up collar as directed. Neaten the raw edge on the front facing. 2. Fold each front facing on to the right side of the garment on the fold line and match center fold lines. Pin and tack on neck fitting lines. Stitch along fitting lines from the fold to the center fold line exactly RS = Right side WS = Wrong side 200 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Snip cross turning at center fold lines (point B) and trim turnings and corners to 0.3 cm above stitched line . Turn facings over to the wrong side and ease out corners gently, bringing stitched line on to the fold and press 4. With upperside of collar against the wrong side of bodice, place edges of collar to the center fold lines. Fold turnings of under collar away towards worker. Matching neck fitting line of bodice and upper collar only, pin, tack, and machine stitch. Fasten off ends securely, remove tacks and press. Trim turnings to 0.6 cm and snip where necessary. 5. Turn the collar up and over turnings. Press collar up from the stitched line so that turnings are enclosed. 6. Working from the right side of garment, fold under the turnings of the under collar and lay the folded edge along the stitched fitting line, so that all turnings are inside, pin and tack into position. Hem the fold on to the machine stitching. Remove all tacks and press Note: When collar is folded in to place,the hemming is concealed 201 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Attaching a Shirt Collar with a Band 1. Neaten the raw edge of the front facing. Fold each front facing onto wrong side of garment along the fold line and tack into position. 2. Baste interfacing to the underside of collar and make up as directed for a straight collar. 3. Baste interfacing to band facing 4. With right side together pin band to underside of collar matching center back and balance marks. 5. Right side together, pin band facing to band, over the collar matching center back balance marks and fitting lines. Tack and machine stitch around three sides of the ban from points AB leaving neck edge free. Remove tacks, press stitching, trim seam and snip where necessary. 6. Turn through right side and bring stitched line up on the fold and tack around the edge. 7. Working from the wrong side of the garment, pin band facing to neck edge matching center back and fitting lines. Tack and machine stitch on neck fitting line. Remove tacks, press stitching, trim turnings and snip curved edges. 202 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 8. Working from right side of garment, fold under the turning on the band and lay folded edge over the stitched fitting line so that the turnings are enclosed. Pin and tack into position. Starting at center back on collar edge, machine stitch round the band, overlapping the stitching for ½ inch at join. Remove all tacks and press. Attaching Collar with the Use of a Shaped Facing 1. Make up the collar as directed 2. Prepare the shaped facing: a) With right side together and matching fitting lines, join back neck and front neck and edge facing at shoulders, with a plain seam; trim turnings and press open (on full length openings a further join in the front facing is often required). b) Neaten the outer edge of the facing all round by folding 0.6 cm turnings to the wrong side. Tack, machine stitch, close to the fold. Remove tacks and press 3. Place underside of collar to right side of garment and bring edges to center fold lines. Matching balance marks and fitting lines and pin and tack the collar in position 4. Place prepared facing over the collar with right side of facing to right side of garment. Matching all balance marks and fitting lines pin, tack, and machine stitch all round. Remove tacks and press. Trim turning to 0.6 cm, trim off corners and snip into seam allowance of the curved neck edge. 5. Fold facing over the wrong 203 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ side and gently ease out the corners. Bring stitched line on to the fold and press carefully. Tack around the edge of facing and base of collar to hold in position until garment s completed 6. Secure the facing by hemming in place on to the seam allowance of the shoulder seam. The front facing will be held in place by buttons, buttonholes and hem. Making a Peter Pan or Shaped Collar Place the two pieces of collar together at the right side. Matching fitting lines, pin, tack and stitch outer edge of collar. Remove tacks and press. Trim turning to 0.3 cm. Snip notches into all curved turnings. Turn collar right side out and bring stitched line on to the fold, press carefully. Tack round the edge to keep the fold in place. If fabric is slippery baste the two layers together. 204 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Attaching a Collar with the Use of a Crossway Strip 1. Make up a collar as directed. Neaten the raw edge of center back or center fold facing extension. Cut a crossway strip 2.5 cm wide and length of neck edge. 2. Place underside of collar to right side of garment and bring edges to meet center fold and center back lines. If two half collars, are used, they should meet exactly on the center fold line at the neck fitting line. Match all balance marks and fitting lines, pin and tack collar in position, easing the bodice on to the collar if necessary 3. Fold on the extension lines and turn facing back on to the right side and over the collar, matching center lines. Pin and tack into position at neck fitting line. 4. Place the right side of crossway strip over collar and garment, placing the raw edge 0.5 cm above the fitting line. Pin and tack so that the crossway overlaps the facing at each side by at least 1.25 cm. 5. Machine stitch from edge of extension. Fasten off ends securely, remove tacks and press. Trim turnings to 0.6 cm, trim corners and snip into curved edges. 6. Turn strip up from stitched line and press. Turn strip edge facing on to wrong side and gently ease out the corners. Crossway strip now forms a narrow facing. Tack against base of collar to hold edge of facing i place 205 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Facing on Armhole 1. With right side together join facing pieces on fitting line with a plain seam at shoulder and underarm. 2. Fold over 0.6 cm turning rom the outer edge of the facing on to the wrong side and tack. Stitch 0.3 cm in from folded edge. Remove tacks and press. 3. With right side of facing to right side of the garment, match balance marks fitting lines and seam lines at shoulder and under-arm. Pin, tack and stitch into position. 4. Trim seam turnings to 1 cm and snip into the curved allowance, snipping more closely at the under-arm, where it is most curved. 5. Turn facing through to wrong side, bringing stitched line exactly on to the fold (or very slightly towards the inside) and tack this fold into position. Turn garment through to wrong side and press folded edge carefully. 6. Attach the facing in position by hemming on to the turning only of shoulder, under-arm and any panel line seams. Remove tacks. If the fabric is very hard and the facings are likely to „roll‟ at the folded edge, this alternatives should be used (see opposite illustration) Note: Before turning through the wrong side, press facing up from the stitched line and against the turning. Stitch the facing on to the seam allowance only about 0.3 cm. from stitched line 206 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Facing a Neck Edge 1. With right side together and matching fitting lines, join front and back neck facings with a plain seam. Press seams open and trim turnings to 1 cm. 2. Fold over 0.6 cm turning from outer edge on to the wrong side and tack (not center back edge). Machine stitch 0.3 cm in from fold. Remove tacks and press. 3. With right side of facing to right side of garment, pin center fold and center back in position. Then, matching shoulder seams, balance marks and fitting lines, pin, tack and machine stitch the neck edge. 4. Remove tacks and press stitching and using a pad press turnings open to ensure a good fold. Trim turning to 1 cm (0.6 cm for fine fabrics) and snip seam allowance of the curved edge and trim off corners at center back. 5. Turn facing to wrong side, bring stitched line to edge of the fold and tack into position. 207 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 6. Turn garment through the wrong side and press edge fold carefully. Pin shoulder seams in place. Turn under center back edges on to the tape of the zip fastener and hem. Hem facing to turnings of shoulder and panel line seams. Remove tacks. Construction of a Facing The facing may be in two or three pieces in order to fit around a neck or armhole edge. The facing sections need to be joined together, prior to being attached. The photographs here show an interfaced neck facing in three pieces. Procedures 1. Baste together the pieces of the facing at the shoulder seams. Illustration Inner edge to be attached to neck Fusible interfacing 2. Sew the shoulder seams and press open 3. Stay stitch around the edge of the inner curve, to prevent stretch. 4. Trim off the outer corners on the shoulder seams. 208 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5. The right side of the facing, ready to attach to the neckline. Neatening the Edge of a Facing The outer edge of a facing will require neatening to prevent it from fraying, and there are several ways to do this. Binding the lower edge of a facing with a bias strip makes the garment a little more luxurious and can add a designer touch inside the garment. Alternately, the edge can be sewn or pinked. Procedure a. Making your own bias strip is easy. Open out one folded edge of the bias strip and place to the outer edge of the facing, right side to right side. b. Sew along the crease line in the bias. c. Wrap the bias around to the wrong side of the work. Baste to hold in place. Illustration d. Working from the right side of the facing, stitch in the ditch made by sewing the bias to the facing. e. On the right side of the facing, the biasbound edge has a neat, professional finish. 209 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ How to Cut Bias Strips Procedure 1. Fold the fabric on to itself at 45 degrees so the selvage edges are at right angles to each other. Pin in place. Illustrations 2. Using tailor‟s chalk and ruler, mark lines 1 ½in (4cm) apart. 3. Cut along these lines to make bias strips. 4. Join the strips by placing them together right side to right side at 90 degrees to each other. 5. Sew across the join. There should be a triangle of fabric at either end of the seam. 6. Press the seam open. 7. Press under the edges of the bias strip with the iron by running the bias strip through a 1in (25mm) tape maker. Other Neatening Methods: The following techniques are alternative ways to neaten the edge of a facing. The one you choose depends upon the ferment being made and the fabric used. Method: Serged – The outer edge neatened with a 3-thread serger stitch. Illustration: 210 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Pinked – Machine stitch 3/8in (1cm) from the edge and the raw edge trimmed with pinking shears. Zigzag – The outer edge neatened with a zigzag stitch. Armhole Facing On sleeveless garments, a facing is an excellent way of neatening an armhole because it is not bulky. The facing is made in the same fabric as the garment. Procedure: 1. Construct the armhole facing and neaten outer edge by the preferred method. 2. Place the facing to the armhole, right side to right side. Match at the shoulder seams and at the underarm seam. 3. Match the notches, one at the front and two at the back. Pin the facing in place. 211 Illustration: LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Sew around the armhole to attach the facing, taking a 5/8in (1.5cm) seam allowance. 5. Trim the facing side of the seam allowance down to half. 6. Clip out some V shapes in the seam allowance to reduce bulk. 7. Turn the facing into position on the wrong side. Understitch by pressing the seam allowance on to the facing and sewing down. 8. On the underarm and shoulder seams, secure the facing to the seam allowance with cross stitches. 9. Press the edge. On the right side, the armhole will have a neat finish. Attaching a Neck Facing This technique applies to all shapes of neckline, from round to square to sweetheart. Procedure: 1. Apply a fusible interfacing to the facing. 2. Lay the neckline area flat, right side up. Place the facing on top, right side to right side. 3. Match the shoulder seams. 212 Illustration: LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Pin the facing in place, matching around the neck edge. 5. Match the shoulder seams on thee facing and the bodice. 6. Machine place using a 5/8in (1.5cm) seam allowance. 7. Trim the facing side of the seam down to half its width. 8. Clip V shapes around the neck edge. 9. Clip into the facing side of the seam as well. 10. Press the seam allowance toward the facing. 11. Understitch by sewing the seam allowance down on to the facing about 3/16in (5mm) from the sewn line. 213 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 12. Press the finished neck edge and turn the facing toward the wrong side. Facing a Slashed Neckline A slashed V-neckline occurs at either the center front or the center back neck edge. It enables a close-fitting neckline to open sufficiently to go over the head. Procedure: 1. Apply a fusible interfacing to the facing. Place the facing right side to right side on garment, to the right side of the neckline. 2. Match the shoulder seams, then pin in place. 3. Sew the facing at the neck edge, pivoting to sew along both sides of the slash between the tailor‟s tacks. Take one stitch horizontally at the bottom edge of thee slash line. 4. Trim the facing side of the seam down to half. 5. Clip V shapes at the neck edge to reduce the bulk. 6. Cut straight down the slash line between the stitching lines 7. Snip off the upper corners. 8. Clip into the corners at the bottom edge of the slash. 9. Turn the facing to the inside of the neckline and press. 214 Illustration: LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Bound Neck Edge Binding is an excellent way to finish a raw neck edge. It has the added advantage of being an alternative method that can be used if you are short of fabric or you would like a contrast or decorative finish. You can use both bias tape or a bias strip cut from the same or a contrasting fabric. A double bias strip is used on fine fabrics. A. Bias-bound Neck Edge Version 1 Procedure: 1. Open out one edge of the bias strip and place the crease line on the 5/8in (1.5cm) stitching line. Pin in place. 2. Sew in place along the crease line. 3. Trim away the surplus fabric from the seam allowance. 4. Clip the neck seam if required. 5. Wrap the bias strip over the neck to the wrong side of the garment. Illustration: 6. Sew the bias strip on the inside of the garment. Press. B. Bias-bound Neck Edge Version 2 Procedure: 1. This technique is used on bulkier fabrics. Cut a bias strip 2 ¾in (7cm) wide. 2. Pin to the neck edge. 3. Sew along the neck edge using a 5/8in *1/5cm) seam allowance. 4. Trim the seam allowance to half on the garment side. 5. Clip the seam allowance on the bias strip. 215 Illustration: LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 6. Fold the raw edge of the bias to the wrong side, to touch the sewn line. 7. Fold again to bring the folded edge of the bias to the same place, and pin. 8. Sew permanently in position using a flat fell stitch. Extended Facing A facing is not always a separate unit. Many garments, especially blouses, feature what is known as an extended facing, which is where the facing is an extension of the front of the garment, cut out at the same time. Procedure 1. Mark the foldline that divides off the facing area and crease by pressing. 2. Apply fusible interlacing to the facing area as far as the foldline. 3. Neaten the edge of the facing. 4. Fold the facing back, right side to right side. Match around the neck and pin. 5. Sew around the neck edge to join the facing of the garment. 6. Trim the facing side of the seam and clip the seam allowance. 216 Illustration LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 7. Turn through to the right side and press. To apply a facing follow general methods and place right side of facing to wrong side of pocket, matching fitting lines of top edge, and tack and machine stitch. Remove tacks, press stitching and turnings, open and trim to 0.6cm. Turn facing to R.S. and turn under 0.6cm along lower edge, tack into position and top stitch. To attach pocket: 1. Complete the top edge as required. 2. Fold turnings of pockets to wrong side on fitting line and tack trim turnings to 0.6cm. On square corners and points pleat, on curved edge snip turnings to reduce bulk. 3. Matching balance marks, place the pocket in position on garment and tack. 4. Following one of the methods shown below, start machine stitching where it is indicated by arrow and work support of corner first, proceed around edge of pocket to finish with the support of second corner. Welt Pocket This pocket insert into the garment with an opening strengthened by an added welt, which is the only section visible when completed. It may be inserted on the straight grain or at an angle to it. The pocket bag is made from two sections, the back cut from the same fabric as the garment and the front from a fine lining fabric. 1. Mark the position of pocket mouth, if not on the straight grain, baste a piece of tape on interfacing to the W.S. Pocket mouth should be at least 9cm wide. 2. Fold the welt in half lengthwise R.S. together, tack and machine stitch the ends on the fitting line. Press, trim and turn R.S. out. 3. Tack the prepared welt into position on the R.S. of the garment so that welt faces downwards and the fitting line is 0.5cm below the position mark for the pocket mouth. 4. Place the front lining section of the pocket over the welt, matching fitting lines. R.S. of lining to R.S. of garment, tack through all four layers. R.S. of lining to R.S. of garment, tack through all four layers. Place the back section of the pocket above the pocket mouth with R.S. together and 217 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5. 6. 7. 8. tack into position with the fitting line 0.5cm above the position mark for the pocket mouth Machine stitch the fitting line each side to exact width of pocket mouth. Ensure that lines are parallel and equal in length. Fasten off all ends very securely. Remove tacks and press. Fold the pocket mouth in half and snip on the fold, open out and cut to within 0.6cm of the ends and then diagonally into the corners. Turn both pieces of the pocket through to the W.S. and press seams so that each piece hangs downward. Press the welt into an upright position on the R.S. to hide the pocket mouth. Tack the front and back of the bag together making them the same width as the welt. Machine stitch along the tack line. Press, trim the turnings to 0.6cm and neaten with over-sewing. Tack welt into position of the R.S. of the garment and blind hem or over-sew both ends from R.S. making both top points very strong as they take the most strain. Techniques in Cutting Final Pattern In cutting the final pattern, there are always standard procedures to be followed to avoid mistakes in cutting the pattern which would affect the shape and style of the blouse. Cut pattern pieces just along the cutting lines. Use sharp shears and avoid cutting the inside part of the cutting lines otherwise the actual measurements will be affected. 218 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Learning Outcome 2 Prepare and Cut Materials for Ladies Blouse Objectives At the end of this lesson, you are expected to: 1. cut and lay out pattern pieces; 2. assemble the garment parts; and 3. apply accessories and accents; A blouse will not be as attractive as it appears is to be when sold in the market without those decorative attachments on it. Decorative embellishments add to the beauty and quality of the garment. For a dressmaker, it is a must that the aesthetic sense should be developed to further enhance the quality of the product especially the blouses. Accessories and Accents for Ladies Blouse Decorative Finishes The method of decoration must be suitable for both the fabric and the style and purpose of the garment. If the garment is to be laundered it is essential that the decoration can be laundered in the same manner. 1. Shell Edging A method of making narrow decorative hems or tucks on blouses and young children‟s wear that is made of soft or fine fabrics that do not fray badly. Use a firm silk or cotton thread without fluff to give a crisp appearance. 1. Turn a narrow hem, not more than 0.6 cm on the W.S., and tack. 2. Work from the right to left on the W.S., fastening on with a double back stitch on to the hem. Pick up three running stitches in the hem without going through to the R.S. 3. Taking the needle over the fold, pass from the R.S. through to the W.S. at base of hem, work a second over-sewing stitch in the same place and pull up tightly to pinch thee hem. Take three running stitches into the hem only and repeat to finish hem. (Diagram opposite). NOTE: Spaces in between the double tight stitches should not be more than 1 cm to achieve the correct pinched effect. 219 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Lace For joining lace use the finest thread available that is suitable for the color and texture of the lace. For applying lace use a firm silk or cotton thread that does not fluff but which handles and looks well. Narrow lace edging To join 1. Match the pattern by overlaying the two layers exactly; the effect will otherwise be blurred. 2. Closely oversew around the corded edge of the design to completely join the lace. 3. Trim away the raw edges close to the stitching on both R.S. and W.S. To shape If less than 1.25cm wide, ease the lace into position: if more than 1.25 cm wide used without gathers, it is necessary to make small darts at corner point. 1. For the central angle of brassiere top slip sew a small dart with its point going into the angle. 2. For the shoulder strap point, reverse the placing of the point. 3. On the W.S. flatten the dart and hem on to the back of the lace. Alternate methods of attachments 1. Oversewing the edge closely to the garment and trimming away the surplus fabric: this is not suitable for gathered lace. 220 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Overlay the lace on to a narrow folded hem and machine stitch. 3. Overlay the fabric on to the lace and make an overlaid seam. 4. Oversew the lace to the edge of a triple-folded hem. Wide lace, shaped insertions and piece lace The repetition of the design may be too large to allow for the pattern to meet exactly; the same method is used to join and shape the lace. 1. Mark the fitting lines on the lace and overlap the sections so that the fitting lines match. 2. Select and mark the best continuous outline of the lace that passes across the fitting line. 3. Oversew very closely on marked line and trim off surplus lace. To attach Either sew stitch or pinstitch the edge of the lace on to the garment, trimming away any surplus fabric. On piece lace do not make a hem but utilize the finished edge of the lace. 221 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3.Braid Flat Braid 1. Tack the braid flat into position, making small mitred seams at the angles and joining the ends if necessary. 2. Machine stitch or backstitch the braid along each edge. Remove the tacks and press. Military Braid and Braid used in Binding On single fabric trim off allowance for turnings. By hand: Guide the braid on equally over the edge and tack through the layers, Stab stitch along the edge of the braid from the R.S. through to W.S. By machine: Open out the braid and tack into position on R.S. with ½” width of braid projecting from the edge. Machine stitch along edge of the braid. Turn the projected edge over on to the W.S. and hem on to the machine stitching. Corners: Wide corners can be negotiated by stretching the middle of the braid and easing the edges. 222 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Ruffles. Ruffles is a single layer or double layer of fabric which are used to give a decorative effect to a garment. The amount of fullness in a ruffle depends on the fabric used. A fine, thin fabric will be needed twice the fullness of a thicker fabric. Laying Out Pattern Pieces for Ladies Blouse In laying out the pattern pieces onto the fabric, study the direction of the fibers that are woven into the fabric. It is the grainline of the fabric. This is where the pattern pieces are laid out. To locate the grainline, one should be familiar with the following parts of the woven fabric. 223 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 13. Selvage. This is the finished side edges of the fabric. It is tightly woven to avoid unraveling. Sometimes, it is where the brand name is printed. This is also spelled selvedge. 14. Lengthwise grain. This is known as the warp which runs parallel to the selvage and the strongest grainline with least amount of stretch. 15. Crosswise grain. This is known as the weft. This runs from selvage to selvage. 16. Bias. This is the line that runs diagonally across the fabric. The true bias is always at a 45-degree angle to the crosswise and lengthwise grains and is the fabric‟s stretchiest point. General Layout of a Pattern 1. Follow the correct layout diagram, fold the fabric as directed and spread squarely and smoothly on the cutting out table. 2. Lay out all the pattern pieces required to ensure that there is sufficient fabric. 3. Check the position of each piece, so that the necessary pieces are placed to the fold and that the straight threads (or print) are parallel with the markings for the straight thread. 4. Pin the pattern in place with the pins near the seam allowance and at the right angles to the edges. 224 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Laying out pattern pieces for the blouse. For One-way Fabrics Note: Extra yardage is usually necessary when using fabrics with: f. One-way print g. One-way arrangement of woven stripes h. With nap- woolen and mixture fabrics with surface fibers lying in one direction only. This should be cut so that the fibers run down towards the hem. i. With a cut pile- silk velvets with the pile lying upwards and velveteen, needle cords and corduroy with the pile running downwards. 1. Lay the patterns in the same direction, main sections can be interlocked for economy of fabric. 2. Fabric may be folded in half-lengthwise but should not be folded across the width as this will reverse the pattern on pile. 225 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ For Checks and Striped Fabrics 1. The fabric should be folded correctly so that all lines are exactly in position one over the other. 2. Place the pieces against the first fold and arrange the other pieces accordingly. 3. Place and join the balance marks, center and hem lines of the sections to be identical position on the checks or stripes. Transferring of Marks onto the Fabric Before transferring the marks onto the fabric, check the correct measurements, follow directions, and set sharp pins or make a chalk mark at the exact point indicated. To mark cutting lines with chalk, lay your ruler or yardstick carefully on perfectly smooth fabric, marking the line exactly from point to point. For circular cutting lines, use tracing wheel to achieve greater accuracy in measurement. An expert sewer need not transfer every single mark onto the fabric, but for beginners like you, there is a need to transfer every mark onto the fabric to avoid confusion and as to where the marks should be properly placed. The following markings should be carefully identified while transferring the marks onto the fabric. 1. Notches. These are small triangular markings which are used to match fabric pieces together. 226 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Darts. Instead of drawing all the lines of a dart on your fabric, snip the ends into the seam allowance of the fabric and mark the point with a pencil or water-or air-soluble fabric marker. 3. Center points. This is the midpoint or center of a piece of garment, such as collar or sleeve. Mark the fabric by snipping into the seam allowance at the centers of your pieces. 4. Buttonhole lines. Marking buttonhole lines should be done during the sewing stage. This is to customize button placement to get the right fit and to avoid mistakes in marking the fabric when alteration should be done. 5. Circles, triangles, and dots. Transfer these markings wisely. Sometimes, a snip on the notches will guide the sewer where to start the ease stitch. 6. Zipper placement. Zippers are marked on patterns with a crosshatched line that ends in a circle. There‟s no need to transfer all the marks. Just mark the end point or the bottom of the zipper. Cutting the Fabric In cutting the fabric, it is best to use good shears with 7” or 8” blades. Always cut with long even strokes, following exactly the cutting lines. Use short strokes and the points of the shears when cutting short spaces and in turning corners as shown by the pattern. Cut the fabric flat on the cutting table which is free of any obstacles. Use the other hand to hold the fabric in position while cutting some parts of it. In cutting folded fabric, place pins within to hold the two pieces firmly. Do not place the pins on the cutting lines. Cut lining and interfacing at the same time. There are times that the fabric is slippery like silk, it is necessary to lay tissue down first to serve as an anchor, pin the silk on top, and place your pattern on top of the silk. Cut through all the layers to have accurate set of fabric pieces. It is a good practice to iron the pieces of tissue pattern before cutting them together with the fabric. 227 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ There are times that the fabric is so delicate and pin holes from pins might ruin the appearance of the fabric, avoid using pins instead use weights and place them at the corners of the pattern pieces. When cutting the pattern pieces, do not lift the scissors from the table; keep the bottom blade fixed, gliding the top blade carefully. Make your cutting continuous. Learning Outcome 3 Assemble Garment Parts for Ladies Blouse Objectives At the end of this lesson, you are expected to: 1. 2. 2. apply the pre-assembling method; assemble the garment parts; and pack the ladies‟ blouse. Pre-assembling procedure for ladies blouse Baste if necessary, then: 1. Sew/finish the raw edges. 2. Join the shoulder seams. 3. Sew the darts. 4. Join the side seams. 5. Prepare sew and attach the sleeves 6. Prepare sew and attach the collar 7. Sew the hemline 8. Make hand worked/machine work buttonholes 9. Attach the buttons 10. Apply finishing touches. Pressing Techniques for Ladies Blouse Pressing Tips: Some things to remember when you press garments: The light touch. Too much pressure can cause shine and overpressing. There‟s no need to press (despite the term pressing) at all. 228 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Let the weight of the iron do it for you. Not only is it effortleess, it‟s effective. The only exceptions are fusing interfacing or using a clapper, both of which require pressure. Cooling. After the cloth is pressed, don‟t move unti it has cooled. While still warm, movement puts all those crinkles back, and you have to go back to the ironing board. It pays to press ahead and hang your warm garment. Pressing as basting. Basting, is a drag. Whenever it is possible, press the hems, edges and place rather than pinning or basting. Pins. Never press with pins on, It leaves a permanenet mark. Plastic pins can melt on to your fabric. Markings. Take care removing any markings, whether they‟re made of chalk or markers. Heat has a tendency to cook the marks into the fabric, making them impossible to ever get off. The same applies to stains. Never iron clothes with stain. Zippers. Never press on zipper coils – they melt! Stay away from hooks and eyes and other plastic pieces. Who wants plastic go on a garment? Edges of Facings, Collars, and Cuffs 1. Press seams in the direction in which they are stitched. 2. Grade the seam allowances and turn section of garment right side out. Roll seam slightly to the wrong side, basting around the edge with fine thread. Press lightly to prevent thread from marking garment. Remove basting and press more firmly. Gathers Press gathers toward the gathering line by sliding the iron into the gathers and lifting it or sliding it straight back. Do not move the iron sideways or press across gathers or press beyond the seam line from the plain side, when it is joined to a gathered side. The pressing of gathers may be made easier by lifting the gathered edge from the board as you press. Body of Sleeves Use a sleeve board and pressing mitt for easier pressing of sleeves. Place the sleeve with wrong side out over the sleeve board with the lower edge of the sleeve at small end of the board. 1. Press underarm seam allowance open. 2. Press from the armhole to the lower edge of the sleeve. 229 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Sleeve Cap Gathers in the sleeve cap may shrunk out before setting in the sleeve. Place wrong side of sleeve cap up over small pressing hem, or use rounded end of sleeve board. Use a steam iron or a sponge in pressing cloth, press from seam edges to the stitching line. Armhole Seam 1. Place the armhole over the edge of the sleeve board. 2. Press the seam allowances of the sleeve and garment together extending away from the garment. Press only 2” to 3” at a time. 3. Continue around the armhole, holding seam line in an inward curved position to avoid stretching. 4. Turn the seam allowances on the upper half of the armhole toward the sleeve and slightly press from either right or wrong side 2” or 3” down on each side of shoulder seam. 5. The seam allowances under half of the armhole are not turned toward sleeve or dress. Lower Edge of Sleeve 1. Place the lower edge of sleeve, right side out, over the small end of the sleeve board and press. 2. Remove sleeve and slip the point of the iron inside the lower edge of the sleeve and press the hem or facing. Procedure in Assembling Ladies Blouse Stayline or Staystitching Stayline is a single line of stitching through one layer of fabric to prevent it from becoming stretched. Let’s Do it! How to Stayline 1. Adjust the seam gauge so the stayline in in the seam allowance, ¼ cm from the seam allowance. 230 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ If you do not have a seam gauge, a piece of adhesive tape can be used to mark the desired seam allowance on the machine. Exceptions to the ¼ cm distance from the stitching line will be: a. Neckline, where directions specify ½ cm. b. Side seams, where seam allowance has been increased to 2-2-1/2 cm. c. One type of zipper placket where directions call for staylining on the seam line. 2. Practice guiding and feeding a sample piece of the fabric into the machine without pulling on it. 3. Stayline in the places and in the directions shown 4. When an interfacing is used, the piece it interface with should be staylined together as one piece. Staylined seam allowance may stitched the grain to make handling easier. Let’s Do it! How to Stitch To Machine Stitch 1. Put the needle on the cloth exactly where the stitching is to start. 2. Lower the presser foot. 3. Start balance wheel in direction it is to go. 4. Begin to stitch with the guiding material as directed. 5. Stitch the garment together with the grain, just as was done in cutting and staylining. 231 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Let’s Do it! Preparing Parts for Sewing Ladies Blouse Back of Blouse 1. Stayline the neckline, shoulder, and armholes. 2. Stitch the darts. They are the only construction details on this part of the garment. 3. Fold and put it aside to be pressed with another piece. Left Blouse Front 1. Stayline the neckline, shoulder and armhole. 2. Mark center front. 3. Stitch darts. 4. Finish edge of the facing with an appropriate finish. 5. Lay this piece aside to be pressed later. Right Blouse Front 1. Repeat as directed for the left front. 2. Baste-stitch to mark buttonholes. 3. Press waist back and fronts 4. Join shoulder seam Collar(only for plain collars) 1. Stayline collar sections 2. Stitch collar to collar facing 3. Press collar and shoulder seams for the blouse 4. Attach collar to blouse 5. Stitch side seams of blouse, and press. Sleeve 1. Stayline sleeves 2. Gather between notches, over top of sleeves or cap, use this stitching to take in the fullness. 3. Stitch underarm seam. 4. Hem sleeves. 5. Set sleeves Into armholes, matching notches. 232 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Unit Method of Assembling Ladies Blouse Let’s Do it! Sewing a Blouse (Back) 1. Use the longest stitch. Baste-stitch along fold lines, center back lines, and buttonhole marking to transfer the traced lines to the right side of the blouse. 2. Change the machine setting to about 154 stitches per 2.5cm, the stitch size you use for most sewing. Make staylines as indicated on the diagram. Stitch in the direction of the arrows slightly closer to the edge of the material than the seam line. 233 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Stitch darts and dart tucks. Match dart lines, pin and stitch from the wide end of the dart to the point. Clip threads, leaving ends 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 cm long or, if you prefer, fasten the stitching line by tying the threads or by retracting. End dart tucks by turning a right angle and stitching across the edge of the fold. This holds the stitching line securely without fastening. Blouse Front 1. Mark staylines as indicated in the diagram as you did on the back. 2. Stitch darts and dart tucks as you did on the back. Joining Shoulder Seams 1. Pin the shoulder seams with the right sides of the blouse front and blouse back facing. Matching notches, first, then seam ends. Be sure that the stitching lines (not raw edges) match at the neckline. Stitch with the grain from the neckline outward . 234 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Stitch the shoulder seams of the facing as you did on the blouse. 3. Finish the blouse shoulder seam by pinking or use another appropriate method. Trim the shoulder seams of the facing to about 1cm. Reduce bulkiness, by clipping away the corners of the allowances on seams that have been stitched on both blouse and facings. Pressing Press darts toward center lines or downward. Press seams open, in the direction they were stitched. Facing the Neckline and Back Closing 1. Staystitch around the unnotched outer edge of the neck facing, 1/2cm from the raw edge. (This is especially helpful around curved edges.) 2. Edge-stitch the outer facing edge. To do this, fold under and crease the facing barely inside the stayline along its unnotched edge. Stitch on the 235 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ right side quite close to the fold line. 3. To join the neck facing the blouse, match the center lines, notches, and shoulder seams, then pin them together. Stitch in a continuous line around the entire neckline and along each side of the closing. 4. Trim seam edges to about 1/2cm in width. Cut away excess cloth at the corners. Clip partially through the remaining seam edge around the neck at 236 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 1 1/4cm intervals. Now turn the facing into position and finger press to shape it. 5. Understitch facing edges to keep the facing from extending beyond the blouse edge. Do this by turning both seam allowances back against the facing, then with the facing side up stitch near the neck seam allowances. Be careful to keep the facing smooth and perfectly shaped as you stitch. Understitch along the closing edges where buttons and buttonholes are used. 6. Tack the edge of the neck facing in place by hand at the shoulder seams and at darts. Use several stitches to make each tack. It is not necessary to attach the entire edge of the facing to the blouse by hand, since button and buttonholes help to hold it in place. 237 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Finishing the Sleeve Edges For hemmed sleeves, edge-stitch the raw hem edges just as you did in the outer edge of the neck facing. For faced sleeves, edge-stitch the unnotched facing edge. Then attach the facing to the sleeves with a plain seam. Under stitch the facing edge as you did in the neck facing. Press the facing back against the sleeves. (Shaped facings – those with curves or corners – have to be seamed to form a circle; then they are attached after the blouse side seams are made). Joining Side Seams Stitch the side seams from the lower edge upward, be careful to extend the sleeve hem or facing as you do. (When in doubt as to the fit, baste-stitch the side seams and try the blouse on before you stitch the seams.) Clip the seam allowances at the waistline so the seam can be pressed flat. Curved underarm seams need clipping, have to be reinforced. One way to do this is to staystitch each curve before stitching the seam. Then clip to the stayline only. Another way is to baste folded seam binding beneath the curved seam just before it is stitched. Then, with seam binding down, stitch the seam and clip almost across the seam allowances. In either case, finish seam edges and press. Finishing the Sleeves Turn the facings or hems under and, after pinning and basting, hand hem them in place with a vertical hemming stitch. Pressing Press the neckline and closing edges. If your pattern calls for sleeve hems, fold them back along the fold lines and press. Finishing the Bottom of the Blouse Finish the lower edge of the blouse. Two rows of stitching 1 cm apart just inside a pinked edge make the flattest finish. Be sure that the facing is held in place and caught with the lines of stitching. If you prefer, you may hem the edge, stitch across the lower facing edge at the time you attach to the blouse, with right sides together. You may do this if you missed the step earlier. 238 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Fastening 1. Use either machine made buttonholes or make worked buttonholes by hand. Sew buttons on, be careful to form a shank or stem under each. 2. When necessary, use either small snaps or tiny, flat buttons, and thread loops to hold the upper part of the closing in place. Use snaps or buttons to hold the blouse together below the waistline. Press the blouse lightly from the right side. Fit in your blouse. This will complete the process. Congratulations! You have just made your masterpiece. Characteristics of a Well-fitted Ladies Blouse The kind of fit desired in clothing changes with style and fashion as well as personal preference. No definite rules can be set as to the exact way a garment should fit. However, regardless of fashion, style, and personal preference, a well-fitted garment should possess. 1. Appears as if it belongs to you. 2. Have ease of movement. 3. Be attractive to your figure and appear neither baggy from being too loose or stretched from being too tight. 4. Gives you a feeling of ease and comfort with no need to adjust your clothes in every move. Try on any garment and look at yourself in a full-length mirror. A three-way mirror is better since it allows you to see the sides and back of the garment without twisting. How does it look? Does it flatter your figure? Is the color right for you? Does it hide or disguise a feature you do not want to accent? 239 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5. Does the garment have enough ease to make the necessary body movements comfortable? Stretch out your arms. Bend over. Does the garment move with you? 6. Are the darts in the right places? 7. All the seams should be in proper places. 8. A waistline or belt should sit right on the waist of the woman‟s body. 9. Upper garments should meet lower garments at the waistline without bulging excessively in the front or back. 10. All buttonhole closings should lie smoothly without any pull or strain on the buttons. If the garment pulls, it is too tight. 11. Any zipper on a garment should lie flat against the body without bulging out away from it. 12. The hemline should fall in an even line around the bottom of the garment. If the garment is full, circular, or draped, the folds should fall into place in an even line. Evaluation of Finished Ladies Blouse CRITERIA Perfect Score 15% 1. Suitability of Material a. Material is suitable to style. 2. Workmanship a. Neat: Right side/wrong side b. Seams well defined c. Even overcasting of hemline. d. Edges are finished correctly. e. Buttons secured tightly/buttonholes neat. 25% 25% 3. General Appearance a. Pleasing combinations of colors (buttons) 25% 4. Fitting a. Neckline fits snugly on neck. b. Shoulder seams on shoulder line. c. Shirt not too tight, not too loose. 10% 240 Student’s Score Teacher’s Score LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5. Speed a. Finished on the deadline. 100% TOTAL Learning Outcome 4 Apply Finishing Touches on Ladies Blouse Objectives At the end of this lesson, you are expected to: 1. apply finishing touches on; 2. sew the garment parts correctly; and 3. pack the finished garment. This is the final stage in making a blouse. Careful application of the finishing touches should be applied to give the nearly finished output a more quality feature. Knowledge on the fasteners to be applied should be well crafted to match them well to the garment. Types of Fasteners Buttons Buttons are one of the oldest forms of fastening. They come in many shapes and sizes, and can be made from a variety of materials including shell, bone, plastic, nylon, and metal. Buttons are sewn to the fabric either through holes on their face, or through a hole in stalk called a shank, which is at the back. Buttons are normally sewn by hand, although a twohole button can be sewn by machine. a. Sewing on a 2-Hole button- This is the most popular type of button and requires a thread shank to be made when sewing in place. A toothpick will help you to sew on this type of button. 1. Position the button on the fabric. Start with a double stitch and double thread in the needle. 241 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Place the toothpick on top of the button. Sew up and down through the holes, going over the stick. 3. Remove the toothpick. 4. Wrap the thread around the thread loops under the button to make a shank. 5. Take the thread to the back of the fabric. 6. Buttonhole stitch over the loop of threads on the back of the work. b. Sewing on a 4-hole button- This is stitched in the same way as for a two-hole button except that the threads make an X over the button on the front. 1. Position the button on the fabric. Place a toothpick on the button. 2. Using double thread, sew up and down through alternate sets of holes, over the toothpick. Make an X shape as you stitch. 3. Remove the toothpick 4. Wrap the thread around the thread loops under the button to make the shank. 242 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5. On the reverse of the fabric, buttonhole sew over the thread loops in an X shape. c. Sewing on a Shanked Button- when sewing this type of button in place, use a toothpick under the button to enable you to make a thread shank on the underside of the fabric. 1. Position the button on the fabric. Hold a toothpick on the other side of the fabric, behind the button. 2. Using double thread, sew the button to the fabric, through the shank 3. Be sure each stitch goes through the fabric and around the toothpick beneath. 4. Remove the toothpick. Work buttonhole stitch over the looped thread shank. 243 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Snap Fastener Snap Fasteners are used where a lightweight fastening is needed. They are available in a black or silver metal finish in a range of sizes. Small, clear plastic snaps may be used on fine fabrics. There are many types of nonsew snap with decorative metal or colored caps, which are attached using a special tool or a hammer. Snap Fastener Made from a nylon or metal, this fastener is formed from a ball and socket, which simply press or snap together and are easily pulled apart. Nonsew Snap Fastener This fastener has a decorative metal cap. The fabric is held between the socket stud and the stud cap. The other edge is held between the ball stud and the rivet. The two sides then snap together. Nonsew covered snap Designed to look like a covered button, this ball-and-socket fastener is available in a kit containing five pieces that snap together. It is covered by a circle of fabric . 244 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Attaching Snap Fastener Ball-and-Socket Fastener 1. Fasten the thread firmly to the wrong side of the overlapping edge. Such the ball stud to this edge, without stitching through to the right side. Finish with backstitches at the stud edge. 2. Close the opening. Pass a pin through the center of the ball stud to mark the position for the socket stud. Mark the point with another pin or a dressmaker‟s pencil. 3. Stitch the Socket Stud firmly to the right side of the underlapping edge in the same way as the ball stud. Use four stitches to secure each hole and backstitches as the base. Hook and Eye Hooks are versatile fasteners that can fit into both straight bars and round eyes, and are strong enough not to open under stress. They are made in different sizes and strengths, and are frequently used on waistbands at the top of the zipper openings. Sew-on snap fasteners are available in range of sizes, and non-sew snaps provide an alternative to buttonholes on casual garments. Hook-and-loop fasteners, usually cut from a strip, are easy to open and close and are often used for garment detail such as cuffs, and in home furnishings. Standard hook and eye These fasteners have looped eye for use on adjoining fabric edges or straight eye for use with lapped fabric edges. Covered hook and eye This set has a looped eye. It is used on coats, jackets and garments made from deep-pile fabrics. 245 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Skirt hook and bar This sturdy set is used on pants and skirt waistbands. The design stop the hook from slipping off the straight eye. Review of Learning Outcome Identification. Directions: Name the following fasteners. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. ____________________ 2. ___________________ 3. ____________________ 4. ___________________ 246 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ . Let’s Do it! Attaching Hook-and-Eye fastener Hook and Looped Eye 1. Stitch around each hole on the hook, without stitching through to the right side.Take two or three stitches over the neck of the hook to secure it. Finish with backstitches near the hook. 2. Position the eye so that the loop projects over the fabric edge by about 1/8 in (3mm). Fasten the thread securely. Stitch around each hole. Stitch over each side of the eye inside the fabric. 3. Fasten the hook and eye. The finished edges of the two parts of the garment should just meet and lie flat, so that no part of the hook or eye is visible on the right side of the garment. Hook and Straight Eye 1. Stitch the hook to the wrong side of the overlapping edge, with their ends about 1/8 in (3mm) in from the edge. Close up the opening, and mark the position of the bears with pins on the right side of the underlap. 247 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Stitch around the first hole on a bar. Slip the needle between the fabric layers, along to the second hole, and stitch around it. Slip the needle to the second bar position and stitch. Finish by fastening the thread securely. Skirt Hook and Bar 1. Position the hook on the wrong side of the waistband overlap, 1/8 in (3mm) in from the fabric so that the bar will be covered when the is fastened. Stitch with several stictches through each hole. 2. Close the opening, and overlap the waistband ends. Position the bar on the right side of the waistband so that it corresponds with the hook. Pin through the holes to hold the bar in place, and secure it with several stitches. Zipper The zipper is the most used of all fastenings. There are many types available, in a variety of lengths , colors, and materials, but they all fall into one of five categories: skirt or pant zippers, metal or jeans zippers, invisible zippers, open-ended zippers, and decorative zippers. a. Lapped Zipper- skirt zipper in a skirt or a dress is usually put in by means of a lapped technique or a centered zipper technique. For both of these 248 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ techniques, you will require the zipper foot on the sewing machine. A lapped features on one side of the seam- the left-hand side- covering the teeth of the zipper to conceal them. Attaching the Lapped Zipper 1. Sew the seam, leaving enough seam open to accommodate the zipper. 2. Secure the end of the stitches. 3. Insert the right-hand side of the zipper first. Fold back the right-hand seam allowance by 1/2 in (1.3cm). This folded edge is not in line with the seam. 4. Place the folded edge against the zipper teeth. Baste. 5. Using the zipper foot, sew along the baste line to secure the zipper tape to the fabric. Sew from the bottom of the zipper to the top. 249 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 6.Fold back the left-hand seam allowance by 5/6in (1.5cm) and press. Place the folded edge over the sewn line of the other side. Pin and then hand baste along foldline. 7. Starting at the bottom of the zipper, sew across from the center seamline and then up the side of the zipper. The finished zipper should have the teeth covered by the fabric. b. Open-Ended Zipper- The open-ended zipper is used on garments to lack the two sides of the zipper into place. The zippers are closed using sliders, and are used on jackets. It needs to be fully opened in order to put the garment on. 1. On both pieces of fabric, turn under the seam allowance at the center front and baste. Neaten by preferred method. 2.Turn up the hem allowance and baste in place. 3. Place the folded edge of the center front about 1/8in (3mm) from the zipper teeth to allow for the pull to move up and down. Pin in place. 250 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Place the button of the zipper at the hem edge. 5. Using the zipper foot, sew the zipper in place. Start with the zipper open. Sew 2in (5cm), then place the needle in the work, raise the zipper foot, and close the zipper. 6. Sew to the end of the zipper tape and secure. 7. Pin the other side of the zipper in place on the other piece of fabric. Make sure the fabric line up top and bottom. 8. Undo the zipper and, using the zipper foot, sew in place you did on the first side. 251 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 9. Once the zipper is sewn in place, check that the hems line up. If they do not, you will have to rip the seam and start again. 10. The zipper should be open completely. c. Centered Zipper- With a centered zipper, the two folded edges of the seam allowance meet over the corner of the teeth, to conceal the zipper completely. 1. Sew the seam, leaving a gap for the zipper. 2. Baste the rest of the seam allowance. 3. Press the seam open lightly. 252 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Center the zipper behind the tacked part of the seam. Pin and then baste in place along both sides. 5. On the wrong side, lift the seam allowance and the zipper tape away from the main fabric. Pin. 6. Sew the zipper tape to the seam allowance. Make sure both side of the zipper tape are secured to the seam allowances. Sew through to the end of the zipper tape. 7. Working from the right side of the work, sew down one side, across the bottom, and up in the other side of the zipper. 8. Remove the tacks and press. 253 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 9. The finished zipper from the right side. d. Invisible Zipper- This type of zipper looks different from other zippers because the teeth are on the reverse and nothing is seen except the pull is seen on the front. The zipper is inserted before the seam is sewn. A special invisible zipper foot is required. 1. Mark the seam allowance with basting stitches/ 2. Place the center of the zipper over the baste line, right side of zipper to right side of fabric. Pin in place. 254 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Undo the zipper. Using the invisible zipper foot, sew from the top of the zipper down as far as possible. Stitch under the teeth. The machine will stop when the foot hits the zipper pull. 4. Do the zipper up. Place the other piece of fabric to the zipper. Match along the upper edge. Pin the other side of the zipper tape in place. 5. Open the zipper again. Using invisible zipper foot, sew down the other side of the zipper to attach to the second piece of fabric. Remove any basting stitches. 255 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 6. Close the zipper. On the wrong side at the bottom of the zipper, the two rows of stitching that hold in the zipper should be finishing in the same place. 7. Sew the seam below the zipper. Use the normal machine foot for this. There will be a gap of about ½ in (3mm) between the line for the zipper and that for the seam. 8. Sew the last 1 ¼ in (3cm) of the zipper tape to just the seam allowances. This will stop the zipper from pulling loose. 256 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 9. On the right side, the zipper is completely invisible, with just pull visible at the top. Apply a waistband or facing the press. Hemming Stitches Machine-sewn On many occasions, the hem or edge of a garment or other item is turned up and secured using the sewing machine. It can be sewn with a straight stitch, a zigzag stitch, or a blind hem stitch. Hems can also be made on the serger. Let’s Do it! SINGLE TURN HEM Procedure: 1. This is a popular technique. Turn up the hem to the wrong side of the work. Press in place. 2. Sew with a straight stitch close to the hem edge. 257 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ DOUBLE TURN HEM Procedure: 1. This hem will add weight at the edge. Fold up the raw edge of the fabric once and then fold again. 2. Press and pin in place. 3. Sew using a straight stitch, close to folded edge. BLIND HEM STITCH Procedure: 1. This is a single turn hem that is secured using the blind hem stitch on the machine. Neaten the raw edge of the fabric. 2. Fold the fabric as indicated for your machine. Pin, but not too close to the fold.. 3. Using the blind hem foot and the blind hem stitch, secure the hem. The sewn line should be just below the neatened edge. 258 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Press lightly on the right side. Hems on Difficult Fabrics Fine fabrics or fabrics that fray badly require more thought when a hem is to be made. This technique works very well on delicate fabrics. Procedure: 1. Turn up the hem with a single turn. 2. Baste to secure. Illustration: 3. Set the machine to a zigzag stitch, width 3.5 length 2.0, and zigzag close to the fld. 4. Trim away surplus hem allowance. Press. Rolled Hems A rolled hem is used on lightweight fabrics. It is often found on home goods as well as garments. To make it, the fabric is rolled to the wrong side by using the rolled hem foot on the sewing machine. STRAIGHT-STITCHED ZIGZZAG-STITCHED ROLLED HEM ROLLED HEM 259 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Use the rolled hem foot on the sewing machine and a straight stitch. Use the rolled hem foot on the sewing machine and a zigzag stitch. Fused Hem A fused hem is useful for a fabric that is difficult to hand sew, as well as for an emergency hem repair. It uses a fusible web that has a fusible adhesive on both sides. Procedure 1. Turn up the hem to the wrong side of the fabric. Baste the hem in place close to the crease line. 2. Neaten the raw edge with a serger or zigzag stitch. Illustration 3. Insert the fusible hemming tape between the hem and the wrong side of the garment. Make sure the tape sits just below the serger or zigzag stitch. Pin the tape in place. 260 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Cover the hem allowance with a pressing cloth and, using a steam iron, press the edge of the hem to stuck in place. Remove the basting stitches and pins. Bias-bound hems A bias-bound hem will give a narrow decorative edge to a garment or an item of home furnishing. It is particularly useful for curved shapes, to finish them neatly and securely. On a chunky or bulky fabric, a double bias is used so that it will be more substantial and hold its shape better. A double bias is used on sheer fabrics as there will be no visible raw edges. The bias strip can be made from purchased bias binding or cut from a matching or contrasting fabric. Single bias-bound hem Procedure: 1. Place the bias strip to the hem edge, right side to right side. 2. Sew the bias to the edge using the edge of the machine foot as a guide. Press as sewn. 3. Turn the bias to the wrong side of the fabric and roll the bias around the edge of the fabric. 4. Baste the bias down on to the wrong side of the fabric. 5. Working from the right side, stitch in the ditch formed by the seam. 6. On the wrong side, Illustration: 261 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ trim the bias back close to the stitches (bias-cut fabric hardly frays). Remove the basting and press. DOUBLE BIAS-BOUND HEM Procedure 1. Cut bias strips that are 3 1/4in (8cm) wide. Join them together until the required length is achieved. 2. Fold the bias in half, wrong side to wrong side. Baste along the bias. Illustration 3. Place the raw edge of the bias to the hem edge of the right side of the fabric. 4. Sew in place, using the edge of the machine foot as a guide. 5. Wrap the folded edge of the bias to the wrong side of the garment. Place the folded edge to the sewn line. 6. Use a slip hem stitch to secure the folded edge to the sewn line. 7. If preferred, sew the bias in place using a stitch in the ditch technique. 262 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Trimming Techniques for Ladies Blouse Attaching a lace trim A lace edge can give a look of luxury to any garment. There are many ways of applying lace, depending on how the lace has been made. A heavy lace trim has a definite edge to be sewn on to the fabric. Lace edging has a decorative edge and an unfinished edge, whereas a galloon lace has decorative scallops on both edges. Let’s Do it! LACE EDGING Procedure: Illustration: 1. Place the lace to the fabric, right side to right side. Align the raw edges. 2. Sew using a straight stitch. 3. Turn the raw edges to the wrong side of the fabric. Press in place on to the wrong side. 4. Working from the right side of the fabric, zigzag stitch close to the fabric edge. 5. Trim away surplus fabric on the reverse side. 263 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ GALLOON LACE Procedure: 1. Place the entire piece of lace to the right side of the fabric. Align the edge of the lace with the raw edge of the fabric. Pin in place. Illustration: 2. Sew along the upper edge of the lace, following the shape. 3. Trim away surplus fabric following the shape of the stitches. 4. The lace trim on the right side. HEAVY LACE TRIM Procedure: Illustration: 1. Pin the lace to the right side of the fabric. 2. Using a small zigzag stitch, sew along the edge of the lace. All the stitches should be on the lace. 3. Trim away surplus fabric behind. 264 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Applying a Flat Trim On some items a flat trim braid or ribbon is added for a decorative effect this may be right on the hem or edge, or placed just above it. To achieve a neat finish, any corners should be mitered. Procedure Illustration 1. Pin the trim to the fabric, wrong side of the trim to right side of the fabric. 2. At the corner point where the trim is to be mitered, fold the trim back on itself and secure. 3. Sew across the trim at 45 degrees from the edge of the fold, through all layers. 4. Remove excess trim from the corner. 265 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5. Open the trim out and press. 6. Sew the inner and outer sides of the trim to the fabric, close to the edge. Be sure the stitches at the corners are shaped. Enhancement activity Activity Piped Edges A piped edge can look very effective on a garment, especially if it is made in a contrasting color or fabric. Piping is also an excellent way of finishing special-occasion wear as well as home goods. The piping may be single, double, or gathered. 266 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Single Piping Procedure: 1. Just one piece of piping is used. Cut a bias strip 1 1/2 in (4cm) wide. 2. Wrap the binding, wrong side to wrong side, around the piping cord. Pin in place. Illustration: 3. Sew along the binding close to the cord, using the zipper foot. 4. Pin the raw edge of the piping to the raw edge of the right side of the work. 5. Sew close to the sewn line on the piping, using the zipper foot. 6. Place the other side of the fabric over the piping, right side to right side. 7. Sew in place close to the piping, using the zipper foot. 267 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 8. On the right side of the work, the piping can be seen at the edge. Press to finish. Enhancement activity Activity Double Piping Procedure 1. Different thickness of piping cord can be used for this. Make up single piping. 2. Cut another bias strip, in a contrasting color if you like. 3. Join the bias strip to the single piping, sewing next to the piping. Illustration 268 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Place a second piping cord to the wrong side of the contrast strip. 5. Wrap the contrast strip around the cord and sew. 6. Attach to the edge of the work as for single piping. On the right side, there is a double row of piping at the edge. 269 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Enhancement activity Activity Gathered Piping Procedure: 1. This is a great technique to try on cushions. Cut a bias strip 2in (5cm) wide. Sew the bias strip loosely around a piece of piping cord. Secure the cord to the bias at one end. 2. Push the bias along the cord to gather. Illustration: 3. Sew the gathers in place. Secure the gathers at both ends of the cord. 270 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Attach to the edge of the work as for single piping. Applying Other Trims There are many kinds of trims – ribbons, braids, beads, feathers, sequins, fringes, and so on – that can be applied to a fabric edge. If a trim is made on a narrow ribbon or braid it can often be inserted into a seam during construction. Other trims are attached after the garment or item has been completed. Let’s Do it! Inserting a Trim in a Seam Procedure 1. Place the trim to the right side of one piece of fabric, with the beaded or other decorative edge pointing away from the raw edge. The edge of the trim should be on the 5/8in (1.5cm) sewn line. Baste in place. 2. Sew along the trim using the zipper foot. Illustration 271 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. Place the other piece of fabric to the first one, right side to right side. Sew again to join them. 4. Turn to the right side. Press carefully. The trim should hang free. Attaching a Trim to an Edge Procedure 1. Pin the trim in a position along the finished edge of the work. Be sure the trim is aligned to the edge. Baste in place. Illustration 272 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Using the zipper foot, sew in place close to the upper edge, leaving the lower edge of the trim free. Hand Stitching a Trim Delicate Trims – are best hand sewn in place because machine sewing the trim may damage it. Place the trim in position and carefully sew down with a flat fell stitch. Procedure in Pressing Ladies Blouse A newly constructed or purchased garment or one that has become wrinkled should be pressed before wearing. Remove any soiled spots before pressing. The pressed parts of the garment should be moved away from you so they will not be crushed. Let’s Do it! a. Press the parts of the garment that are free, such as ruffles, ties, sleeves, or collar. 273 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ b. Press pockets, collars, cuffs, or buttonholes from the right side. c. Press the underside such details as facings, pocket linings, and seam allowances. d. Press the body of the garment, the bodice first then the skirt. e. Place garment on well-shaped hanger and do not wear it until it is well aired and completely dry. Close top fastener and zipper. Remove belt from loops of the garment and place the belt on the hanger by the buckle. Basically good, well-made garments, even expensive ones, lose their quality if they are wrinkled and untidy. Some garments must be pressed each time they are worn. Others which are of better quality or especially treated fabric may need only occasional attention, but you can bring out the best in fabric and fit by knowing how to iron a garment. The time spent on pressing is a valuable investment which gives your garments so attractive on you. Careful pressing of wearing dresses is essential to good grooming. Labelling of Garments Labels are not functional component of a garment but essential for many reasons. Seven common labels that are found in garments are Brand label, Size label, Care label, Flag label, Manufacturer code, Line mark label and special label. Each label has specific purpose and gives information. 1. Brand or Main Label Main labels indicate the Brand name or Brand Logo of the company that originates and sells clothes. Brand labels play a big role to customers because customers know the brand and they buy the branded one. A brand label is associated with the product‟s quality, durability and feel good factor. We prefer to buy Levis jeans and Tommy Hilfiger for shirts and Polo shirts, Zara for dresses. 2. Size Label Size label defines a specific set of body measurements. These Size labels may be printed only a later to denote a specific size. Such as S for Small, M for Medium and L for Large size garments. Customers know which size fit them well. 3. Care Label This label includes care and ironing instructions. For details of wash care instructions. This refers to garment care symbols. Care labels are attached at the side seam. The purpose of care labels is to warn wearers 274 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ on what not to do while washing, drying and ironing to maintain color, specific printed designs, after wash shrinkage and color blending issues. A care label includes few other information such as: a. Fiber contents are also included in care labels. i.e. 40% Poly and 60% Cotton b. Country of origin: Name of country that manufactured the particular product is also written on care label. Like, Made in India, Made in Philippines. 4. Flag Label: A small label attached outside seam. Flag labels are normally made of brand logos and they are used as design features. 5. Manufacturer Label: This label includes manufacturer‟s code given to buyers. Most of the international buyers purchase garments from countries. In case buyers need to track the manufacturer of a particular product, they look for this code. 6. Batch Mark Label: A label that indicates which sewing line or batch had made the particular garment. This label is not asked by buyers or brands. Few garment manufacturers add this label for the internal quality inspection process and rectify which line had made the garment and which checker had check the same. This label is normally attached to the side seam under wash care label. 7. Special Label: 100% Cotton, Organic Cotton are example of such special labels. Special labels normally attached to draw customer attention at time of purchasing. Functions of Packaging 1. Protects the Products and Consumer. Good packaging is designed to protect the product. For example, packages should be designed to withstand humidity, punture, and other types of damage. 2. Contains the Product. Containers make products easy to carry and keep them separately. 3. Identity of the Product. A package would be less useful if it‟ot properly identified. Usually, the contents are identified by the label on the package. However, using a special design or color on the package helps customers identify the contents. 275 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Promotes the Product. The package is the natural place for promotion. It is part of the product which is most visible to the customer. 5, Makes the Product Easy to Use. Cartons with spouts for easy pouring, boxes with zip-strip openings, butter wrappers with measurement marked on them are examples of the conveniences offered by packaging. In each of these examples, the package is designed with the user‟s needs in mind. Packaging Materials 1. Paper and cardboard – are among the most widely used packaging materials. Paper is inexpensive, lightweight, fairly strong, and easy to print on. Cardboard has all the advantages of paper and is heavier and stronger. 2. Wood and glass – are traditional materials for sturdier or more specialized forms of packaging. Wood makes sturdy shipping crates, which are reused many times. Glass is used mainly to hold liquids or products containing liquids. It doesn‟t leak and free from unwanted taste or smell. 3. Plastic – is used in many forms for packaging. It is shaped into jars and bottles; it is molded into boxes, baskets, and trays; it is processed into sheets for packaging toys, bed linens, small articles of clothing and a wide variety of food products. 4. Metal – is a material that has long been used to pack liquids and food products. The most commonly used metal container is the can. At one time, all cans were made of steel with a tin plating. Today, aluminum cans are popular, particularly for soft drinks. 5. Metallic foil – extremely thin sheet metal, is widely used in commercial packaging. It can be folded and wrapped almost like paper and yet has the strength and moisture resistance of metal. Packaging Forms Some of the most familiar forms of packaging are boxes and crates, bottles and jars, and bags and wrappers. 1. Skin packaging – plastic film is molded tightly over a product mounted on a card. 2. Blister packaging – a plastic bubble is preformed in a plastic sheet. The product is placed on a card, and the bubble is placed over it. 3. Aerosol or Dump dispenser – a container that releases its contents in spray or foam when a valve is pressed. 4. Flexible pouch – is a package formed from plastic film or paper that is filled with the product and sealed by heat process. 5. Shrink wrap – is a package made by placing clear film around the product itself. 6. Multipack – is a special package design that groups two or more packaged 276 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ products into a unit for easier display, carry home utility, or user convenience. 7. Aseptic packaging - combines many good qualities of cardboard, metal and glass. These containers are called “aseptic” because they keep germs out of foods that need no refrigeration. 8. Dispensing Closure - is a cap, lid, or seal through which the contents of the container can be dispensed in a controlled manner. Procedure in Packing Procedure in Packaging Finished Garments Finishing Department: Check points in finishing department consists 1. Initial finishing inspection: Checking done prior to pressing of the garment at finishing room is known as initial finishing. 2. Final finishing Inspection: After pressing garments are double checked it is passed for tagging and packing. 3. Internal final audit: After the garments are packed up to certain quantity, quality control team, audit of package garments, This process is carried to ensure handing over to shipment to buyer. Let’s Do it! Directions: Bring at least five (5) items showing different forms of packaging. Present them to your classmates and identify what form of packaging was used. 277 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Let’s See How Much You Learned Post Test 2 A. Multiple Choice Directions: Read the statements carefully. Choose the letter that best describes the statement. Write the answer in your quiz notebook. 11. It generally refers to a tailored shirt. e. Pants f. Trousers g. Blouse h. Shirts 12. A kind of blouse that has a great style for most body types and features a surplice collar, which overlaps fabric into a v-shaped neckline. e. Button-Down f. Peasant g. Casual h. Surplice Wrap 13. This type of blouse is popular because its style can be worn by many body types and in various settings. e. Surplice Wrap f. Button-down g. Peasant h. Casual 14. A blouse which emphasizes free-flowing materials. e. Peasant f. Casual g. Surplice Wrap h. Button-down 15. This is egg shaped that is rounded at the top and slightly elongated at the chin. e. Round f. Square g. Triangle h. None of the above 16. The top is wider than the ear side going smaller to the chin. The use of wider necklines is helpful. e. Heart f. Triangle 278 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ g. Square h. Oval 17. Rounded at the top and slightly curved at the chin like a human heart. The shape fits to almost all kinds of necklines. e. Heart f. Round g. Oblong h. Oval 18. In a round-shaped face, a type of neckline suitable is e. Round, V-Neck f. Round, Square g. Square, Sabrina h. V-necklines 19. A type of neckline suitable for Square-shaped face. e. Round, V-neck f. Round, Square g. Square, Sabrina h. V-necklines 20. These are tops that have been tailored to be worn with jeans or trousers. e. Peasant f. Surplice Wrap g. Casual h. Button-down B. Filling the blanks Directions: Fill-in the blanks with the correct word (s) that best describe(s )the statement. 1. Procedure in drafting a Round Neckline. 6. 7. 8. 9. Trace the basic bodice _______ A-B is ___ cm. A-C is ___ cm. D-E is __ cm. Shape the neckline from C, B, and E. 10. Measure ___ cm for the zipper allowance from E. 279 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Procedure in drafting V-neckline 6. Trace the ____ bodice pattern 7. A-B is ___ cm. 8. ___ is measuring 16 cm. from shoulder. 9. D-E is ___ cm. 10. From ___ measure 2.5 cm for zipper allowance. C. Identification. Directions: Identify the type described in each statement. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 11. The type of neckline curve which has the same shape as the neckline of the garment. 12. Part of a shirt, coat, dress, blouse, etc., that encompasses the neckline of the garment and is sewn permanently into it. 13. A collar that stands up slightly from the point of attachment to the neckline of a garment before folding over to lie flat. 14. A flat collar with rounded ends that meet at the front. 15. A collar that is found in garment with front openings, can be worn either in an open style or in a closed style. 16. A sleeve that has an arm seam inside the shoulder width. 17. A sleeve that is fitted at the wrist but cut with a deep armhole and resembles a cape from the back. 18. Measurement taken from left to right shoulder tip bone. 19. Measurement taken across the back halfway down the shoulder. 20. A measurement taken around the smallest part of the body. D. True or False Directions: Write T if the statement is true and F, if the statement is false. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. Chest measurement is taken by measuring one arm joint to the other arm joint. 2. Waist measurement is taken around the arm where the sleeve length ends. 3. Lower Arm Girth is taken around the fullest part of the arm 2-3 inches below the armpit. 4. Apex Height measurement is taken from the shoulder neck tip bone down to the apex point 5. Upper Arm Girth is taken around the arm in line with the armpit. 6. Apex Distance is approximately 7 inches down the waistline with the tape measure passing around the hip. 7. Sleeve length is taken around the fullest part of the hip. E. ANALOGY 280 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Directions: Supply the measurement needed for a blouse which Matches the given word at the left. Measurements needed for a blouse. Shoulder:________ Figure:________ Bust:______ _________:Sleeve Length _________: Sleeve Width Waist Measure:_______ _______:Hip Measure ________: First Hip F. Enumeration Directions: Write what is asked for in the statements below. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1-5 Types of fabrics suited for ladies blouse 1. ______________________________________ 2. ______________________________________ 3. ______________________________________ 4. ______________________________________ 5. ______________________________________ 281 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ QUARTER III Overview Part III and IV is about producing ladies trouser. This will enable you to learn more and develop skills in drafting and cutting pattern for ladies trousers, prepare and cut materials, assemble garment parts and apply finishing touches, particularly long pants with continental side pockets or front hip pockets. In addition, the process of labelling and packaging the finished output is also discussed. General Objectives: At the end of the quarter, learners are expected to: 1. drafts and cuts pattern; and 2. prepares and cuts materials for ladies trousers. Let’s See What You Know Pre-Test III A. True or False Directions: Read and answer the following statements. Write “True” if the statement states a fact and “False” if it doesn‟t. Write your answer in your quiz booklet. __________1. Knee length is measured along the side seam from the waist to the level of the knee. __________2. Desired knee circumference or knee width is measured around the knee with the desired “tightness” of the sleeves. __________3. Crotch or rise can be measured in two ways: standing position and crouching position. __________4. Sitting position measurement of crotch can be done by sitting erect on a chair that has a flat bottom seat. 282 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ __________5. Standing position is measured without the use of tailor‟s square in crotch measurement. __________6. Length or trouser outseam is measured along the side Seam from the waistline to the hem line or desired length. __________7. Hip 1 is measured from the waist down 3 ½ to 4 ½ inches. __________8. Waist is measured around the area where the hip seam rests. __________9. The desired bottom circumference or bottom width is measured around the hemline which will be the desired leg _________10. Hip 2 is measured 4 to 7 inches below the waist taken around the fullest part of the buttocks. B. Multiple Choice Directions: Choose the letter of the correct answer. Write it in your quiz booklet. 1. The waist fits snugly at waist or at hips if the pants are: a. Waist-huggers c. Leg-huggers b. Hip-huggers d. Fitted block 2. Fabric materials for pants can be of natural fibers and ____. a. Synthetic c. Plastic b. Rubber d. Metal 3. In constructing a pair of long pants, consider the following except: a. Shape of pants legs c. Number of darts or pleats b. Style of the hemline d. Size of the neck 4. What is the first procedure for making the front hip or continental side pockets? a. Trace the top pocket facing from the plan. b. Plan the pocket shape and the depth. c. Surveymaterial d. Trimlines 5. Hip pockets are made up of two pattern pieces: a pocket and a a. Facing block c. Facing wood b. Facing piece d. Facing line 6. It finishes off the pocket opening: a. Facing block c. Facing pieces b. Pocket piece d. Pocket block 283 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ 7. It becomes part of the main garment at the waistline in constructing hip or continental side pockets. a. Pocket face c. Pocket piece b. Facing block d. Facing piece 8. Which of the following is not a natural fiber made? a. Denim c. Ski pants b. Spandex d. Modern twee 9. Which of the following is not a synthetic fiber made? a. Poly linen c. Shantung b. Double knit d. Jacquard fabric 10. Lay out and pin the pattern pieces on the cloth as ________ as possible in prepare for material cutting. a. Economically c. Legitimately b. Probably d. Grateful C. SEQUENCING Directions: Arrange the following procedures chronologically by writing the right number based on their proper order. 1. Prepare the material for cutting ________ Provide seam allowances. ________ Cut the material ________ Preshrink, straighten, and press the cloth ________Lay out and pin the pattern pieces on the cloth as economically as possible. ________ Transfer all construction marks. 2. Attachment of the zipper on the left fly _______ Join the legs. Place the right and the left front crotch seam edges RS together, matching the crotch points and the waist edges. ________ Left fly. Cut the pieces of the fabric and the pocketing same size as the fly extension on the right leg. ________On WS lift the fly pieces free of the trouser and baste the zipper tape to it, keeping it in the position established when basting from RS. ________ Fold the fly piece on the left wide to WS baste with the seam on the edge. ________ Remove the basting and spread out the waist of the left trouser leg with the fly piece extending. ________ Stitch and press inside the leg seams. Baste the crotch seam from the base of the zipper and through the 284 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ backstitch with double thread. ________ Close the zipper; pin the band. Check the stitching line; open the zipper, then machine or prick stitch from the base of the band finishing with a bar tack over the crotch seam. ________On WS make a bar tack between the fly extension and the crotch seam at the base of the zipper Legend: RS – Right Side WS – Wrong Side 3. Hemming and finishing of trouser ________ Cuff or u turn. The trousers should be cut 9 cm/3 ½ longer. ________ Finish the trousers by pressing well. ________ Hem Mark the length, checking that inside leg seams are equal. 4. Order of Assembly for continental side pockets: ________ Join the top pocket facing the right side of the pant together. Clip the seam on curve. Press. Topstitching is necessary. ________Join the rounded edges or corner edges of the pocket, matching the balance marks, right sides together. Trim the edges. Join the side seams of pants. B. ENUMERATION Directions: Enumerate the following: A. Measurements needed in constructing pants: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ B. Hip locations to be measured in constructing pants: 1. _________________________ 2. _________________________ 285 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ C. Two ways in measuring crotch 1. ______________________ 2. ______________________ LESSON 1 Learning Outcome 1 PRODUCE LADIES’ TROUSERS Draft and Cut Pattern for Ladies Trousers Objectives At the end of this lesson, you are expected to: 1. perform how to draft and cut pattern; and 2. demonstrate how to prepare and cut materials for ladies trousers. There might be some confusion between the meaning of trousers, pants, or even slacks. Some maybe asking what is more appropriate to use for ladies? Or which one is for men? Even some dictionaries, the meaning seem to be synonymous or interrelated with each other. In order to come up with a more specific meaning, experts in sewing considered the origin from where these words came from. In most parts of the United Kingdom and Ireland, trousers are the general term for an outergarment which are worn at the hips or waist, and maybe held up by their own fastenings, a belt, or suspenders (braces) while pant, a British word, refer to as men‟s underwears or underpants, plural of which are pantie. But, in some other places, it is also an outergarment covering each leg separately and usually extending from the waist to the ankle- and it comes from the word “pantaloons”. Slacks are trousers especially for casual wear and it is usually used in plural form. Designs of Ladies Trousers Trousers are basically office wear worn by corporate women. They are made up of cotton, polyesters and wool and looking great with a formal blouse and shirt. As fashions change, the lengths of slacks or trousers vary now from very short to knee length, to just below the knee, and on down to the ankle and just below it. The legs of 286 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ trousers may be slightly flared, straight, or tapered. Careful construction of them will enable us to construct a pair of trousers which will be well-tailored and contribute to a neat appearance regardless of specific style or design. To come up with the best trouser that would compliment your body is to understand one‟s body type or shape, the posture of the body and the type of fabric used in making the trouser. There are six main body shapes that will guide you in choosing the best style of trouser to wear: Hourglass, Triangle, Inverted Triangle, Rectangle , Diamond and Rounded shape. Different Shapes of the Body 1. For Triangle shape, it is best to wear a trouser with the straight leg. 2. For Inverted Triangle shape, a peg trouser, with pleats on the top, and has a waistband. Wide leg lining trouser is also good for this body shape. 3. For Rectangle shape, low rise, skinny trousers and wider leg is best for this shape. Avoid big flares and cargo pants and silky flowing trousers for office or night out. 4. For Hourglass shape, high-waist and wide-legged trousers underline the curvaceous body are of great style options. 287 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ 5. For Oval or Diamond shape, trousers should be in classic style with flat fronts, and no extra from zips, pleats or gathers. Low rise trousers should not be worn and waistbands should not be too tight. Boot cuts are best suited for this shape and if tall enough, straight cuts or palazzo is of great choice. 6. For Apple or Rounded shape, a pair of boot cut jeans will help this body shape looks slimmer and create a line waist down. Skinny jeans or trousers should be avoided. Another factor to consider is the type of posture that a wearer has. Posture type can be classified into three categories: 1. Average. When the wearer stands fairly straight and the side seams of pants fall straight and are lined up with the ankle, she has average posture. 2. Forward-tilted hip. When the wearer stands in somewhat slouched manner; fairly flat, low seat, and has high prominent roll below the front waist or high prominent hip bones. This posture causes pants to sag under the seat unless the pattern is altered. Average Forward-tilted hip Different Body Postures 288 Backward-tilted hip LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ 3.Backward-tilted hip. When the wearer stands with the tummy lowered and posterior out and up and the pants hike up over the seat. In here, the pattern crotch length is not corrected. Styles of Trousers 1. Straight Leg Trouser is the style of trousers which can fit any body type. It can be found in different designs and best for business meetings and in casual workplace. It has uniform width from thigh all the way to hem. The straight line help balance out any body type and has the ability to hide wide and bulky thighs. It is ideal for women with wider hips, larger thighs as well as for slender women. a. Gaucho trouser is similar to Capri pants except that it has wider legs with a flare at the bottom. This is ideal for warm weather. The short breathable legs keep the woman cool and the wide and flowing legs can have a similar appearance to a skirt depending on the amount of fabric used and the amount of flare. Women with long legs can wear any style or colour gaucho trousers and women with shorter or heavier legs should wear longer gaucho trousers in a light color. 3. Boot Cut Trouser has similar design to straight leg trousers except that it has a slight flare at the bottom so that it can easily fit over a pair of boots. This works well with any body type. 289 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ 4. Skinny Trouser is the style for women who have skinny, straight legs and slim figures. Skinny trousers hug the legs and the hips very closely and make the lower half of the body look small. It is important that the top half of the body is in proportion. Leggings are usually skin tight and are made up of denim, cotton and lycra. 5. Cropped Trouser is best suited during summertime. It is not as short as capri pants, instead it has a hem that falls between the ankle and the calf. It has straight legs and do not hug the legs too closely. Women with shorter stature should avoid cropped trousers that have a cuff because they will make women shorter than they already are. It is best suited for casual or business casual occasions. Capris are popular among women which are worn during summer. These are made up of cotton, denim and polyester. Wide 6. Wide Leg Trouser has straight legs that is wider and more flowing than straight leg trousers. Tall, slender women are wearing this kind of trousers because it can make the bottom appear larger than the top half. When paired with the right shoes, wide leg trousers can help elongate the legs and slim the figure down. These types of trousers are available as part of a women's suit or as a casual pair of trousers for any occasion. Palazzos are generally loose in fitting and are best suited to lean women and goes well with tank tops and trendy blouses. These are made up of wrinkle free fabric. 290 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ Types of Waistbands for Trousers 1. Super High Rise. Waistband is more than 1 inch above your waist. 2. High Rise Jeans. Waistband is 1 inch above your waist. 3. Medium Rise Jeans. Waistband is located precisely on the waist. 4. Medium to Low Rise Jeans. Waistband is located typically 2-3 inches below the belly button. The most popular rise in most denim brands, especially for women. 5. Low Rise Jeans. Waistband is very low, 3-5 inches below the belly button. 6. Ultra Low Rise Jeans or Brazilian Low Rise Jeans. Brazilian jeans are growing in popularity and are renowned for their daring sexy cuts, high quality and original embellishments. Types of Fabrics Suited for Ladies Trousers Women buy a pair of trousers to add to their wardrobe and wear in the workplace. They choose the best one that suits them and best for their body types. They find the styles of trousers that look most flattering to them aside from this they give comfort and ease of movement in their workplace. There are various styles, designs and colours to match every woman‟s taste when it comes to trousers. But then, to come up with well-fitted and wellconstructed trouser fabrics must be given importance in constructing or buying a pair of trousers to give more flattering and more catching effect to the wearer. 291 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ In choosing the best fabric suited for ladies trousers, choose fabric which is firmly woven to hold its shape and would compliment more to your body shape. Texture and design should be properly examined to avoid scratchy feeling when it is used. There are also fabric types which require lining to prevent undergarments and seam allowances seen through. Choose medium-weight blends fabric for trousers. Types of Fabrics Suited for Ladies Trousers Polyester Gabardine Gabardine is a light wool (or cotton Polyester has the same once in a while) twill weave that's best characteristics as the cotton but may for Spring and Fall. It is usually woven not easily gets dirty as cotton. in 10-12 ounce weights that are warm in the summer and not warm enough in winter. Denim Cotton Cotton has an elegant appearance for women but for women with lots of Denim is a heavy-weight fabric with activities, this is not appropriate very little drape or stretch. because it snags easily and is hard to 292 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ clean and care for when it gets dirty. Corduroy Velveteen Corduroy is a type of fabric that has strips on one side alternating between flat and slightly fluffy, which gives a ribbed effect. Corduroy is quite thick and is often used to make trousers and jackets. Velveteen is a type of imitation velvet. It is normally made of cotton or a combination of cotton and silk. It has a pile that is short (never more than 3mm deep), and is closely set. It has a firm hand and a slightly sloping pile. Unlike true velvet, this type has greater body, does not drape as easily, and has less sheen Satin Flannel Satin is also commonly used in apparel: satin baseball jackets, athletic shorts, women's lingerie, Flannel is a soft, lightweight fabric. It nightgowns, blouses, and evening works well for colder-temperature gowns, but also in some men's boxer shirts, pants and jackets. shorts, briefs, shirts and neckties. It is also used in the production of pointed shoes for use in ballet. Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, 293 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ upholstery, and bed sheets. Linen Linen is a medium-weight fabric with little elasticity (hence it wrinkles). But it conducts heat and is a popular choice for warm-weather. 294 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ Parts of Trousers Parts of Trousers 1. Waistband is a strip of fabric fastened at the top of trousers that fits around the waist. 2. Fly is an opening/placket covering the groin which makes the pants easier to put on or take off. It conceals the mechanism such as zipper, velcro or buttons. 3. Leg(s) or leggings are form-fitting covering for the legs. 4. Seam is a line where two pieces of cloth are joined by sewing near the edge of the fabrics (inseam and outseam). 5. Bottom(s) are the lowest part of trousers. 6. Trouser support the belt loops on the waistband of the trousers where the belt passes on serve as support to the wearer. 295 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ 7. Pocket is usually small cloth bag that is sewn into a piece of clothing which is open at the top or side where little things can be put into it. Review of Learning Outcome 7 Identification Directions. Identify the following being described. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. These are styles of trousers which can fit any body type.It can be found in different designs and best for business meetings or in casual worklplace. 2. These are trousers with skinny legs for women who have straight legs and slim figures. 3. It is usually skin tight and are made up of denim, cotton and lycra. 4. It has the same characteristics as the cotton but may not be that easily gets dirty as cotton. 5. It is a heavy-weight fabric with very little drape or stretch. Types of Pockets A pocket is a bag- or envelope-like receptacle either fastened to or inserted in an article of clothing to hold small items. It is an indispensable part of men and women‟s garments. It is functional. It serves as container for small objects aside from being a decoration. In the construction of long or short pants, different kinds of pockets are used. 1. Patch pockets. These pockets are external and can be decorative. They can be made from the same fabric as the garment or from a contrasting fabric. a. Unlined patch pocket is one of the most popular types of pockets, it can be found on garments of all kinds.On medium and heavier fabrics, it is advisable to apply a fusible interfacing. 296 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ 1. If needed, apply an interfacing to the pocket fabric. 2. Mark the fold lines with tailored tacks. 3. Fold the top of the pocket down, as indicated by the tailor‟s tacks. 4. Use the zigzag stitch to neaten the edge. 5. Sew down the sides of the turned-down top. 6. Sew a long stitch through the corners. This will tighten the curve. 7. Trim away the fabrics in the seam allowance of the curve. 8. Remove the top corner. 9. Turn the top edge over to the wrong side . Press. 10. Pull up the stitches in the curves to tighten. Press. 11. Turn under the curved edges. 12. Baste through the bottom edge and curves to secure. 13. Hand sew the top edge with a herringbone stitch to the wrong side of the pocket. 297 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ 14. Press. The pocket is now ready to be attached. b. Lined patch pocket. This type of pocket is not suitable for heavy fabrics and for medium-weight fabric, a fusible interfacing is required. This needs to be cut with the top edge of the pocket on a fold. 1. 2. 3. 4. Cut the pocket fabric and apply a fusible interfacing if needed. Fold the pocket in half, right side to right side. Pin to secure. Sew around the three open sides of the pocket. Leave a gap of 1 in (3cm) for turning through. Remove bulk from the corners by trimming. 5. Trim one side of the seam allowance down to half its width. 6. Use pinking shears to trim corners. 7. Turn the pocket through the gap to theright side. Press. 8. Hand stitch the gap (using a flat fell or blind hem stitch) in the seam. The pocket is now ready to be attached 298 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ c. Square Patch Pocket. It is possible to have a patch pocket with square corners. This requires mitering the corners to reduce the bulk. Use a fusible interfacing on medium-weight fabrics. 1. Cut the pocket and apply interfacing, if needed. Neaten theupper edge of the pocket withserger or zigzag stitching. 2. Fold over the upper edge and stitchdown the sides. 3. Fold in the other three edges and press to crease. 4. Remove the top corners. 5. Fold in the bottom corners, then fold accross these to give creases for the mitters. 6. Sew the crease lines together in each bottom corner to miter it. 7. Cut off the surplus fabric, then press the corner seam open with the toe of the iron. 8. Turn the edges of the pocket to the wrong side. 9. The finished pocket is now ready to be attached. d. Attaching patch pocket.To attach a pocket well, accurate pattern chalk marking is essential. It is best to do this by means of tailor‟s tacks or even trace basting. If you are using a checker or striped fabric, the pocket fabric must be alligned with the checkered or stripes on the garment. 299 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ 1. Mark the pocket placement lines on the garment with tailor‟s tacks. 2. Take the completed pocket and place it to the fabric, matching the corners with tailor‟s tacks. Pin in position. 3. To make sure the pocket remains in the correct position, baste around the edge along the sides and bottom. Keep the basting stitches close to the finished edge of the pocket. 4. Sew approximately 1/32 in (1mm) from the edge of the pocket. 5. Remove the basting stitches. Press. 6. Alternatively, the pocket can be hand sewn in place, using a hem stitch into the underside of the pocket seam. Do not pull on the thread too tightly or the pocket will wrinkle. e. Reinforcing pocket corners. On any patch pocket, it is essential to reinforce the corners as these take all strain when the pocket is being used. There are several ways to do this, some of which are quite decorative. REVERSE STITCH 1. Reinforce the corner with a reverse stitch. Make sure the stitches lie on top of one another. DIAGONAL STITCH 1. This technique is primarily used on shirts. When sewing the pocket in place, sew along ZIGZAG STITCH 1. Using a small zigzag stitch, width 1.0 and lenght 1.o sew diagonally accross the 300 PARALLEL ZIGZAG STITCH 1. Patch on the wrong side of the garment, behind the pocket corner, to sew into for strength. LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ horizontally for four stitches. 2. Pull the 2. Turn and sew threads to the diagonally back reverse to tie to the side, to off. create a triangular shape in the corner. corner. 2. Make a feature of this stitch by using a thread in contrasting color. 2. Using a small zigzag stitch, width 1.0 and length 1.0 sew a short vertical line next to the straight stitches. Types of Facing and Interfacing Facings are pieces of fabric sewn to the garment edge, turned to the inside, and sewn in place by hand or machine. Garment edges that are commonly faced are necklines collars, cuffs, and sleeveless arms-cyes. There are two styles of facings that are common to the costume shop, fitted and bias facings. 1. Fitted Facings are pieces of fabric that match the area to be faced in shape and grain. 2. Bias Facings utilize the stretch of the bias to shape the facing to the edge being faced. The stetch of bias is limited and are restricted on the curvature possible on the edge to be faced. Interfacing is a supporting fabric that is used to give body, shape and reinforcement to particular areas of a garment, and is hidden between 301 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ plies of fabric. Interfacing in good quality garments is usually found in the following areas: Interfacing is used to provide shaping, reinforcement, firming and support. Collars, cuffs, facings and plackets are the most commonly interfaced areas but far from the only uses for interfacing. Without interfacing buttonholes might rip without the interfacing to strengthen them, facings collars and cuffs would be limp and floppy without interfacing and many creative projects would never happen. Interfacing comes in various weights and sew-in or fusible form. The weight is almost always lighter than the fabric you are sewing but should always have the same care requirement. One exception is something like a baseball hat bill or fabric bowl. That interfacing is much heavier than the fabric to obtain the stiff hat bill or bowl shape. Fuse or Sew-In Interfacing Although the choice ends up being a matter of preference, the fabric is the final decision. Not all fabrics can withstand the heat required for fusible interfacing. Cool fuse. Interfacing is a possibility because it adheres at a lower heat setting. Fusible interfacing also adds a bit more stiffness once it is fused than when it is standing alone. Always pre-wash your fabric to remove any finishes or chemical coatings before attempting to fuse an interfacing to it. When you are sewing fabrics such as vinyl, velvets, beaded, sequin and treated fabrics it is best to use sew in interfacing. Review of Learning Outcome 8 Identification. Directions. Identify the following being described. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. These are pieces of fabric that match the area to be faced in shape and grain. 2. These pockets are external and can be decorative. They can be made from the same fabric as the garment or form of a contrasting fabric 3. It is used to provide shaping, reinforcement, firming and support. 302 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ 4. These are facings which utilize the stretch of the bias to shape the edge. 5. These are pieces of fabric sewn to the garment edge, turned to the inside, and sewn in place by hand or machine. Project Plan for Ladies Trousers Name of the Project: Making a pair of ladies‟ trousers Date Started: _______________ Rating: _____________ Date Finished: ______________ I. II. Objectives: a. b. c. III. Design of the Project: IV. Materials, Tools, and Equipment Needed A. Materials Description Quantity Unit Cost V. B. Tools and Equipment Procedure A. Preliminary Construction Process 1. 2... B. Assembling the Ladies‟ Trouser 1. 2. 3... VI.Evaluation Rubrics for Evaluating the Finished Ladies Trousers 303 Total Cost LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ Body Measurements for Ladies Trousers Body Parts to be Actual Measured Measurements 1. Outside Length (L) 2. Waist (W) 3. Seat/ 2nd Hip (2H) 4. Rise/ Crotch (C) 5. Thigh (T) 6. Knee (K) 7. Bottom (B) 304 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ Body Parts to be Measured in Making Trousers 1.Waist. 2. High hip (3" down at side). 3. Hip at fullest part (7-9" below waist). 4. Distance at side from waist down to fullest part of hip. 5. Pant length (waist to floor). 6. Thigh at fullest part. 7. Knee (1" above center). 8. Distance to knee from waist. 9. Crotch depth. Sit on a flat surface and measure from waist to surface on side. Note: Rise or Tiro meaning “Crotch” 305 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ Procedure in Taking Body Measurements for Ladies Trousers Tips in Taking Body Measurements for Ladies Trousers 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Use a clear and correctly numbered tape measure. Start from number one when taking measurements. Never take your own measurements. Stand straight when being measured. Empty the pockets and remove the belts when measurements are being taken. 6. Follow the correct order of taking the body measurements. 7. Measurements should never be too tight nor too loose. 8. Record all measurements immediately. Needed Measurements A. Vertical Measurements 1.Outside Length – Taken from the waist down to the desired length, this measurement is taken at the side with a tape measure. 2. Rise- Taken from the waist down to the crotch with the use of a tailor‟s square. B. Horizontal Measurements 1.Waist- Taken around the smallest part of the torso or body with a tape measure. 2.Seat or Hip- Taken around the fullest part of the second hip or buttock with a tape measure. 3.Thigh- Measured around the fullest part of the thigh in line with the crotch. 4.Width of knee- Taken from the back creaseline to the front creaseline at the kneeline of the pants. 5.Width of bottom- taken at the bottom of pants desired length. C. Rise Measurement Techniques in taking the rise measurement: 1. Use a ruler and a tape measure. 2. Use a tailor‟s square. 3. Have the person seated and take the measurement at the side, from the waist down to the chair seat. Fundamental Lines Needed in Drafting the Pants Pattern 306 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ Fundamental Lines in Pants Pattern Let’s Do it! A. Front Part (Use red ink in drafting) 1.From 1, measure 7½ cm upward to get A. 2.From 1, apply the rise measurement to get 2. 3.From 1, apply the length measurement to get 3. 4.From 3, measure 3.8cm downward to get 4 for the fold allowance. Square out from1, 2, 3, and 4. 5.From 2, apply ¼ seat measurement plus 1.9cm to the left to get 5. 6.From 2, apply ¼ seat measurement plus 1.9cm to the right to get 6. 7.From 1, measure 1.9cm to the right to get 7. 307 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ 8.From 7, apply ¼ waistline measurement to the right to get 8. 9.From 7, apply ¼ waistline measurement plus 1.9cm to the left to get 9. 10. Get the measurement from 7 to 2 and apply this from 9 to get 10. 11. From 8, measure 1½ cm upward to get B. Using a hip curve, draw a line to connect 7 to B and 9 to 10. 12. From 5, measure 3.8cm to the right on line 2. 13. From 10, measure 3.8 cm upward on line 9 to get 11. Using a french curve, connect 5 and 11. 14. Get the midpoint of 2 and 3 and mark this C. 15. From C, measure 3.8cm upward for the knee cap. 16. From the knee cap point, apply ¼ knee measurement to the right to get 12 and ¼ knee measurement to the left to get 13. 17. From 3, 1pply ¼ bottom measurement to the right to get 14 and the same measurement to the left to get 15. 18. From 4, apply ¼ bottom measuremnt plus 1.9cm to the right to get 16 and the same measurement to the left to get 17. 19. Connect B, 8, and 6 with a hip curve turned outward. Connect 6 and 12 with the hip curve turned inward. 20. Draw a line downward connecting 12, 14, and 16. Draw another line downward connecting 13, 15, and 17. B. Back Part (Use blue ink in drafting) 1. From 6, measure 2½ cm to the right to get 18. 2. Get the midpoint of 8 and 6 and mark this D. 3. From D, measure 3.8cm to the right to get E. 4. From 12, measure 1.9cm to the right get 19. 5. From 14, measure 1.9cm to the right to get 20. 6.From 16, measure 1.9cm to the right to get 21. Connect E, 18, 19, 20, and 21. 7.From F, apply ¼ waistline measurement plus 3.8cm to the left to get 22. 8. From 22, measure 3cm upward to get 23. Connect 23 and F. 9. From 5, measure 3.8cm to the left (outside line) to get 24. 10. From 24, measure 1¼ cm downward to get 25. Draw a line to 10 then connect 11 to 25 using a French curve. 11. From 13 and 15, measure 1.9cm to the left to get 26 and 27, respectively. 12. From 17, measure 1.9cm to the left to get 28. Connect 25, 26, 27, and 28. 308 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ Drafting Basic/BlockPattern for Ladies Trousers LADY’S PANTS SLOPER A. Pants measurements 1.Waist: taken around the smallest part of the waistline. 2.Hip II: 20 1/3 cm below the waistline, measured around the hip with the tape measure over the fullest part of the buttocks. 3.Length of the pants: from the waistline to the ankle. 4.Crotch: with the individual seated, measured around from the waistline down the seat. Let’s Do it! B. Sample measurements Waist = 28 Hip II=38 Length=37 Crotch=10 Knee=18 standard Ankle=16 standard 1. A is the starting point. 2. A to B is equal to crotch measurements. 3. Divide hip by 2. On the other long side/arm of the square, look for 19 under 1/3 division and place B; mark 19 under ½ divisionC; mark under 1/6 division D; and mark 19 under 1/12 division E and mark corner F. 4. F to K is 1 ¼ cm; E to G is 1 ¼ cm. 309 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ 5. H from A = 2/3 cm. Divide waist by 2. On the short arm of the square, look for 14 under ¼ division and place H; mark corner J; and 14 under ½ division L. 6. Connect I to G; F to G =G to L. Draw front crotch from L to K;L to M = ¼ hip II. 7. With the curve, join J, M passing line BC and mark corner T. 8. A to N= length of pants 9.B N/2 + 1 = 0 10.P from O = ¼ knee Q from O = ¼ knee R from N= ¼ ankle S from N= ¼ ankle 11.Connnect P, R, S, Q up to T. With a curve, connect K to P. Back Sloper 1. 1 from P= 1 ¼ cm 2 from R= 1 ¼ cm 3 from S= 1 ¼ cm 4 from Q= 1 ¼ cm 2. Connect 6 to D. 3. F to D = D to G 4. On the short side of the square place 19 under ¼ on D anf mark corner 7.7 to 8= 2/3 cm. Connect to 8 to 1. 5. Draw dart to 4 cm wide and 13 cm long. Cutting the pattern 1. Pin pattern securely. 2. Trace back crotch and back dart. 3. Cut outermost lines first, cut back crotch, then front pattern. 310 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ Manipulating Basic/Block Pattern for Ladies Trousers Enhancement activity Activity A. Lady’s Pants with Sliding Front Pocket Design Sample Measurement: (All in inches) Waistline - 27 Hips - 36 Thigh - 20 Crotch8 Length- 40 Knee - 8 1/2 Bottom - 14 FRONT PART: From 1 to 2 is the crotch measurement, minus 1 ½ inches for waistband. From 1 to 3 is the length, minus 1 ½ inches for waistband From 3 to 4 is 2 inches, and at from 3 to 5 6 is the center of 2 and 3, plus 1 ½ inches upper part From 2 to B is 3 ½ inches From B to E is 2/3 hips (use the square) M is the center of B and E (make a center line) From E to F is 1/8 hips (use the square) minus ½ inch From D to N is the measurement of the bottom From C to O is the measurement of the knee Draw a straight line from O to N, and from C to D From E to 2 is 4-inches down (thigh line) From B to 3 is the measurement of thigh, minus ¼ inch Draw a line from O to 2 up to E Draw a line from C to 3 From B to Y is ½ inch From A to H is ¼ waistline (use the letter x as center) Draw a line from 3 to Y up to A Draw a straight line from H to F 311 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ From F to W is 1 ½ inches Draw a curve line from W to E Front Part: cut on the line BACK PART: From N to P is ½ inch, and from D to Q From O to R is ½ inch, and from C to S Draw a straight line from R to P, and from S to Q From E to I is 1/12 of hips, plus ¼ inch (use the square) From Y to T is 1-inch (more or less) From A to J is ¼ waistline (use the square) From J to K is ¼ waistline measurement (use the tape measure) plus 1 ½ inches From X to K is 1 ½ inches From F to G is ¾ inch (more or less) Draw a line from K to I connecting letter G L- is thecenter of J and K Back Part: Give an ½ inch allow since both sides, and at the back part of waistline is 1 ¾ inches allowance Imaginary line is your back part Enhancement activity Activity B. Lady’sPants with Continental Front Pocket and Patch Back Pocket, with V-Cut Sample Measurement (All in inches) Waistline - 26 Hips - 36 Thigh - 21 Crotch - 9 Length Knee Bottom - 40 9 13 FRONT PART: From 1 to 2 is the crotch measurement, minus 1 ½ inches for waistband. From 1 to 3 is the length, minus 1 ½ inches for waistband From 3 to 4 is 2 inches, and at from 3 to 5 6 is the center of 2 and 3, plus 1 ½ inches upper part 312 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ From 2 to B is 3 ½ inches From B to E is 2/3 hips (use the square) M is the center of B and E (make a center line) From E to F is 1/8 hips (use the square) minus ½ inch From D to N is the measurement of the bottom From C to O is the measurement of the knee Draw a straight line from O to N, and from C to D From E to 2 is 4-inches down (thigh line) From 2 to 3 is is the thigh measurement,minus ¼ inch Draw a line from O to 2 up to E, from C to 3 From B to Y is ½ inch From A to H is ¼ waistline (use the letter x as center) Draw a line from 3 to Y up to A Draw a straight line from H to F From F to W is 1 ½ inches Draw a curve line from W to E BACK PART: From N to P is ½ inch, and from D to Q From O to R is ½ inch, and from C to S Draw a line from R to P, and from S to Q From E to I is 1/12 of hips, plus ¼ inch (use the square) From B to T is 1-inch (more or less) From A to J is ¼ waistline (use the square) minus 1-inch Draw a line from R to I, and from S to T up to J From X to K is 1 ½ inches Draw a straight line from J to K From J to K is ¼ waistline measurement (use the tape measure) plus 3/4 inches From F to G is ¾ inch (more or less) Draw a line from K to I connecting letter G From J to 2 is 1 ¾ inch, and from 2 to 3 is one inch From K to 4 is 3 ¼ inches, and from 4 to 5 is one inch Draw a straight line from 2 to 4, and from 3 to 5 From J to 6 , and at from K to 7 Front Part: cut on the line Back Part: Give an inch ½ inch allowance both sides, and at the back part of waistline is 1 ¾ Imaginary line is your back part 313 LM-Dressmaking / GRADE 10 ___________________________________________________________________________ Enhancement activity Activity C. Ladie’s Pants with Four Pleats, and Sliding Front Pocket Sample Measurements (All in inches) Waistline - 25 Hips - 34 Thigh - 20 Crotch - 8 Length- 39 Knee - 9 Bottom-13 FRONT PART: From 1 to 2 is the crotch measurement, minus 1 ½ inches for waistband. From 1 to 3 is the length, minus 1 ½ inches for waistband From 3 to 4 is 2 inches, and at from 3 to 5 6 is the center of 2 and 3, plus 1 ½ inches upper part From 2 to B is 3 ½ inches From B to E is 2/3 hips (use the square) M is the center of B and E (make a center line) From E to F is 1/8 hips, minus ½ inch (use the square) From D to N is the measurement of the bottom From C to O is the measurement of the knee Draw a line from O to N, and from C to D From E to 2 is 4-inches down From 2 to 3 is is the thigh measurement,minus ¼ inch Draw a line from O to 2 up to E, from C to 3 From H to A is ¼ of waistline measurement, plus 1 ½ inches for pleats Draw a line from 3 to B up to A Draw a straight line from H to F From F to W is 1 ½ inches Draw a curve line from W to E Mark your pleats up to 1 ½ inches only 314 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ BACK PART: From N to P is ½ inch, and from D to Q From O to R is ½ inch, and from C to S Draw a line from R to P, and from S to Q From E to I is 1/12 of hips, plus ½ inch (use the square) From B to T is 1-inch (more or less) From A to J is 1 12 inches (more or less) Draw a line from R to I, and from S to T up to J From X to K is 1 ½ inches Draw a straight line from J to K From J to K is ¼ of waistline measurement, plus 1 ½ inches From F to G is ¾ inch (more or less) Draw a line from K to I connecting letter G L- is the center of J and K Back Part: Give an inch ½ inch allowance both sides, and at the back part of waistline is 1 ¾ inches Imaginary line is your back part Let’s Do it! Directions: Following the procedure in drafting basic/block pattern for ladies‟ trousers, draft or manipulate pants sloper using your own measurements. Techniques in Cutting Final Pattern 1. Cut out the pattern along the dotted guidelines, then put the pattern pieces together to make sure they match before starting to cut your fabric. Correcting any cutting mistakes is essential so that the seam lines will match up. 2. Add seam allowance (at least 1cm) to all edges and 2,5-3cm to the hems. Remember that you can measure and adapt the length of the pants legs to suit your leg length. Depending on your seating posture the pattern length can be more or less suited for you. If you want to make sure, cut the pants slightly longer than you need. It is easier to shorten the leg length than making them longer if necessary. 315 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 3. The waistband is cut as one piece unless the width of the fabric is too short. In this case you have to cut it in two sections (remember to add seam allowance to the edges) and then join it in the back. 4. Place the pattern pieces on top of the underside of the fabric. Cut along the lines of the pattern, leaving 5/8 inch (1.6 cm) space for seams around every part of the pattern pieces. Mark the pattern pieces with a number or letter if you feel you will lose track of which pieces will be sewn together Learning Outcome 2 Prepare and Cut Materials for Ladies Trousers Objectives At the end of this lesson, you are expected to: 1. perform the methods on how to prepare and cut materials for ladies‟ trousers; and 2. follow the procedures correctly in performing the activities. Laying Out Pattern Pieces for Ladies Trousers The fabric for the trouser should be preshrunk and pressed to ensure that there will be no more shrinkage after it has been cut and sewn. The grainline should be straightened. When laying out, cutting, and sewing, pay close attention to the lines and contours of the fabric print or design, and see to it that they align and match at appropriate points for the best appearance of the finished garment. Lay the fabric out on a smooth, hard surface. Use sharp pins to pin the pattern pieces to the fabric. 316 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Cutting the Fabric Let’s Do it! 1. Cut out the fabric using the pattern pieces as a guide. 2. Mark the pattern pieces front and back using a washable marking pen or marking pencil. Also, pin the pieces. Use two pins to mark the front and one pin to mark the back pieces. 3. Use scissors to cut the triangles or waistline markings. Cut them out as this will help match pattern pieces. 4. Cut with the grain. Cut the waistband exactly on grain, twice the width of the Grosgrain plus ¼inch, and 5 inches longer than the waist measurement. The waistband in plaid fabrics may be cut either on the kengthwise or on the crosswise grain, depending on the design. 5. Cut the lining after the first fitting in case the pattern has to be altered. 6. Edge finish then, cut out pattern pieces using a zig zag or serging stitch Transferrring of Marks onto the Fabric Let’s Do it! 1. Use tailor‟s tacks to mark all darts, tucks, crotch seams, and outseams at waistline and hem. Mark original seamsline on crotch seam with hand basting. 2. Stay stitch the waistline ¼ inch outside the seamline. Stay stitch the seamlines at the pocket, the length of the zipper. Do not stay stitch the crotch seam. 3. Baste the lengthwise and crosswise grainlines with contrasting colored thread if the fabric is not a plaid. Put the crosswise grainlines at a right angle to the lengthwise grainline at the seven-inch hipline marking, the crotch, and the knee. 317 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Identify the lines in the plaid that are the lengthwise and crosswise grainlines. Safety pins can be used for this identification. 5. Press the creases before basting the garment together. Fold on the lengthwise grainline and baste. When pressing the crease, lay the fold on a plaid press cloth and use a line in the fabric as a guide to help you keep the crease straight. If you do not have a plaid press cloth, lay the fold against a yard stick and press. In the front, press only to the point of the dart. Let’s See How Much You Learned Post Assessment 3 A. True or False Directions: Read and answer the following statements. Write “True” if the statement states a fact and “False” if it doesn‟t. Write your answer in your quiz booklet. __________2. __________3. __________4. __________5. __________1. Knee length is measured along the side seam from the waist to the level of the knee. Desired knee circumference or knee width is measured around the knee with the desired “tightness” of the sleeves. Crotch or rise can be measured in two ways: standing position and crouching position. Sitting position measurement of crotch can be done by sitting erect on a chair that has a flat bottom seat. Standing position is measured without the use of tailor‟s square in crotch measurement. __________6. Length or trouser outseam is measured along the side Seam from the waistline to the hem line or desired length. __________7. Hip 1 is measured from the waist down 3 ½ to 4 ½ inches. __________8. Waist is measured around the area where the hip seam rests. __________9. The desired bottom circumference or bottom width is measured around the hemline which will be the desired leg _________10. Hip 2 is measured 4 to 7 inches below the waist taken around the fullest part of the buttocks. 318 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ B. Multiple Choice Directions: Choose the letter of the correct answer. Write it in your quiz booklet. 1. The waist fits snugly at waist or at hips if the pants are: a. Waist-huggers c. Leg-huggers b. Hip-huggers d. Fitted block 2. Fabric materials for pants can be of natural fibers and ____. a. Synthetic c. Plastic b. Rubber d. Metal 3. In constructing a pair of long pants, consider the following except: a. Shape of pants legs c. Number of darts or pleats b. Style of the hemline d. Size of the neck 4. What is the first procedure for making the front hip or continental side pockets? a. Trace the top pocket facing from the plan. b. Plan the pocket shape and the depth. c. Surveymaterial d. Trimlines 5. Hip pockets are made up of two pattern pieces: a pocket and a a. Facing block c. Facing wood b. Facing piece d. Facing line 6. It finishes off the pocket opening: a. Facing block c. Facing pieces b. Pocket piece d. Pocket block 7. It becomes part of the main garment at the waistline in constructing hip or continental side pockets. a. Pocket face c. Pocket piece b. Facing block d. Facing piece 8. Which of the following is not a natural fiber made? a. Denim c. Ski pants b. Spandex d. Modern twee 9. Which of the following is not a synthetic fiber made? a. Poly linen c. Shantung b. Double knit d. Jacquard fabric 10. Lay out and pin the pattern pieces on the cloth as ________ as possible in prepare for material cutting. a. Economically c. Legitimately b. Probably d. Grateful C. SEQUENCING Directions: Arrange the following procedures chronologically by writing the right number based on their proper order. 319 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 1. Prepare the material for cutting ________ Provide seam allowances. ________ Cut the material ________ Preshrink, straighten, and press the cloth ________Lay out and pin the pattern pieces on the cloth as economically as possible. ________ Transfer all construction marks. 2. Attachment of the zipper on the left fly _______ Join the legs. Place the right and the left front crotch seam edges RS together, matching the crotch points and the waist edges. ________ Left fly. Cut the pieces of the fabric and the pocketing same size as the fly extension on the right leg. ________On WS lift the fly pieces free of the trouser and baste the zipper tape to it, keeping it in the position established when basting from RS. ________ Fold the fly piece on the left wide to WS baste with the seam on the edge. ________ Remove the basting and spread out the waist of the left trouser leg with the fly piece extending. ________ Stitch and press inside the leg seams. Baste the crotch seam from the base of the zipper and through the backstitch with double thread. ________ Close the zipper; pin the band. Check the stitching line; open the zipper, then machine or prick stitch from the base of the band finishing with a bar tack over the crotch seam. ________On WS make a bar tack between the fly extension and the crotch seam at the base of the zipper Legend: RS – Right Side WS – Wrong Side 3. Hemming and finishing of trouser ________ Cuff or u turn. The trousers should be cut 9 cm/3 ½ longer. ________ Finish the trousers by pressing well. ________ Hem Mark the length, checking that inside leg seams are equal. 4. Order of Assembly for continental side pockets: ________ Join the top pocket facing the right side of the pant together. Clip the seam on curve. Press. Topstitching is necessary. ________Join the rounded edges or corner edges of the pocket, matching the balance marks, right sides together. Trim the edges. Join the side seams of pants. 320 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ B. Enumeration Directions: Enumerate the following: A. Measurements needed in constructing pants: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ B. Hip locations to be measured in constructing pants: 1. _________________________ 2. _________________________ C. Two ways in measuring crotch 1. ______________________ 2. ______________________ 321 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ QUARTER IV Overview Variation of styles for ladies trouser are at stake due to current fashion demand. Industries keep on producing unlimited styles to satisfy customers‟ demand. General Objectives At the end of the quarter, learners are expected to: 1. assemble garment parts of ladies‟ trousers; and 2. sew the garment parts properly. Let’s See What You Know Pre-Test 4 A. True or False Directions: Read the statements carefully. Write T if the statement is true and F if the statement is false. _______1. Flag label is a small label attached at outside side seam. _______2. Snap Fasteners are used where a lightweight fastening is needed. _______3. Machine blind stitch consists of ten to eleven straight stitches that sew the inside hem followed by a sideway stitch that attaches the inside hem to the pant leg by a zipper. _______4. Skirt zipper in a skirt or a dress is usually put in by means of a lapped technique or a centered zipper technique. _______5. Care Label is placed as a design feature. _______6. One of the functions of packaging is to multiply the quantity of product. _______7. Rubber is one of the materials used in packaging products. _______8. Wood and glass are traditional materials for the sturdier or more specialized forms such as for shipping crates or holding liquids. _______9. Initial finishing inspection is done after pressing garments and passed for tagging and packing. _______10. Fiber contents are also included in care labels. 322 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ B. Multiple choice Directions: Read the statements carefully then choose the letter of the correct answer and write it on the space provided. _______1. This label includes wash care and ironing instruction. a. Flag Label c. Black label b. Care Label d. Labeled _______2. It is one of the packaging forms wherein the plastic film is molded tightly over a product mounted on a card. a. Skin packaging c. Aerosol b. Blister packaging d. Dump dispenser _______3. What is the commonly used stitching for jeans or for the lining of dress pants? a. Diagonal Stitching c. Long stitching b. Short stitching d. Straight Stitching _______4. It defines a specific set of measurements of human body. a. Main Label c. Size label b. Packaging Label d. care label _______5. What packaging function is implied on promoting a product? a. Easy to use function c. Promotes the product b. Identifies the product d. protects the product _______6. After garments are packed up to certain quantity, what does the quality control team do? a. Internal final auditing c. Final finishing inspection b. Initial auditing d. external auditing _______7. The following are types of fasteners except: a. Buttons c. Hook and Eye b. Zipper d. clip _______8. A label that indicates which sewing line or batch had made the particular garment. a. Batch Mark Label c. Manufacturer Label b. Flag Label d. Care Label _______9. Which of the following is not a good characteristic of paper and cardboard packaging materials? a. Inexpensive c. Easy to print on b. Light weight d. hydrophilic _______10. At what label the fiber contents are placed? a. Care Label c. Size Label b. Flag Label d. Manufacture label C. Identification Directions: Read the statements carefully. Write the answer on the space provided. _______1. It is a special package made by placing clear film around the product itself. _______2. It is a cap, lid, or seal through which the contents of the container can be dispensed in a controlled manner. _______3. It is a packaging material that has long been used to package liquids and food products and commonly used in a form of can. 323 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ _______4. It is mainly used to package and hold liquids or products containing liquids. _______5. Checking done prior to pressing of the garment at finishing room is known as what? _______6. It is a container that releases its contents in spray or foam when a valve is pressed. _______7. It is a function of packaging wherein it makes the product easy to carry and keep them separated. _______8. Is a package formed from plastic film or paper that is filled with the product and sealed by heat process. _______9. In lapped zipper, when the zipper is finished the teeth should be covered by what? _______10. It is used to indicate brand name or brand logo of the company that sources and sells clothes. Learning Outcome 2 Assemble Garment Parts for Ladies Trousers Objectives At the end of this lesson, you are expected to: 1. perform the procedures involved in assembling garment parts for ladies‟ trousers; and 2. sew the garment parts properly and accurately. You have come to the final stage in assembling the garment parts for ladies‟ trousers. There are standard procedures on how to assemble the parts systematically, but nowadays, dressmakers or sewers have their own standard and own technique in assembling and sewing the garment parts according to their own convenience. Pre-Assembling Procedure for Ladies Trousers Let’s Do it! Preparing for the first fitting 1. Baste darts, outseams, and inseams, in that order. 324 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Put one leg inside the other, right sides of fabric facing, to baste the crotch seam. Do not baste through the seam allowances at the crossing of the inseam and crotch seams. 3. Pin the fitting band to the inside of the garment with the lower edge of the band on the stay stitching. Match the markings on the band to the garment at the center front, center back, and outseams. Place pins on the garment side. Fitting 1. Check the grainlines, ease, balance, and the position of all seams when fitting the garment. Remember, drag lines point to the source of the trouble. 2. Start at the seven- inch grainline first and fit the front, then the back. The crosswise grainline at the seven-inch hipline must be kept parallel to the floor. The creases in each leg must be per- pendicular to the floor. Pants have four centers, whereas skirts only have two. 3. Adjust the darts before fitting the outseams. The darts may be shifted to the area where they are needed. 4. Mini-darts, about two inches long, may be used between the large darts and the side seams. 5. A slight garment bias in the center back seam is acceptable. Sometimes it is impossible to match plaids at the inseams. Just remember these are the least noticeable seams in the garment. Pants may be tapered in the fabric. Indicate the amount tapered on the pattern. Pressing Techniques for Ladies Trousers Pressing Tip: If you worry about shine what you can do is use a piece of thin cloth over the top of your trousers before pressing. Be sure to use a cloth that does not leave bits of fluff. What you will need. 1. An ironing board 2. An iron 3. A bristle brush with a backing/handle that is flat, wooden and unvarnished. Select an iron temperature and settings consistent with the pant fabric. Steam works for most fibers, test on a small hidden area such as the pocket bag or waistband inside before pressing the entire pant. Some fabrics may require the use of a press cloth to prevent shine when pressing on the right side. 325 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Press on a long flat surface, preferably a padded ironing board. Procedure in Assembling Ladies Trousers Let’s Do it! Assembling the Trousers 1. The crotch seam and all leg seams are made before the pocket and placket are constructed. 2. The outside leg seams, pocket and placket are constructed before the inside leg and the crotch seams are made. The first method is common and will be the one that is employed in our slacks. Front of Trousers 1. Stay stitch waistline and side edges, inside leg seam edges, and front crotch seam edges. 2. Machine baste darts and tucks; do not machine stitch until after first fitting. Front Crotch Seam 1. Determine type of seam to be used. A flat-fell seam is strong and appropriate. A plain seam is satisfactory if a finish is used that helps strengthen it, such as binding its edges, or turning under and edge stitching the seam allowances. 2. Stitch permanently after first fitting. Back of Trousers 1. Stay stitch back sections of slacks and machine baste darts in front. Back Crotch Seam 1. Use same type of seam in center front. If flat-fell seam is used, be sure it is made in same direction as front. 2. Baste seam, but do not stitch or complete seam until after fittng. Pinning for Fitting 326 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 1. Pin inner and outer leg seams, wrong sides together. 2. Try on slacks, and pin tape snugly at waistline for fitting. 3. Adjust seams and darts as necessary, allowing hip, thigh, and crotch to fit with enough ease for freedom of movement, enough so that slacks do not droop awkwardly. 4. Fit in sitting and bending positions. 5. Fit waistline in same manner as for skirt. Mark correct hem line. 6. Remove garment and adjust pinning to prepare for stitching. If plain seams are to be used, remove pins from seams, slipping them into a single thickness of garment to show any alteration in seam line. 7. Turn garment in the right sides together and pin-baste new seam line for stitching. 8. If flat-fell seam are to be used, leave seams in the wrong sides together, and pin-baste for stitching. Joining Front and Back Units 1. Stitch and press any darts or tucks and crotch seams. Stitch and press inner leg seams with crotch seams and two inner leg seams exactly. 2. Clip seams on curves and trim seam allowances where seams cross. 3. Leg seams may be reinforced with narrow cotton twill tape extending 2” to either side of crotch seam. Finish seams in same manner as crotch seams. 4. Sttich and press outer leg seams from hem to crotch, leaving the right side open above the pocket marking, and the left seam open for the placket. Pocket in Side Seam The pocket is placed in the right side seam. The pocket in a seam will not open if there is sufficient ease allowance in the fitting of the slacks at the waist and the upper hem line. 1. Baste front pocket section to front of garment side seam, and back pocket section to back of garment side seam on seam lines, right sides together; stitch. Pocket in side seam: In step 1, the front pocket section has been basted to the front of the garment side seam, and the back pocket section to the back of the garment side seam. Step 4 shows that the pocket sections have been stitched together and the pocket top has been pinned to the waistline of the front of the garment so that it will be caught permanently in the waistline seam. 2. Press back seam allowance toward the back of the garment. Press front seam allowances toward front of the garment. 3. Turn pocket front inside, rolling seam just to under side; machine top stitch on front edge of garment ¼ “ from fold to form firm pocket edge. If top stitching is not desired, press seam allowances toward pocket and understitch before pocket is turned inside. 327 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 4. Pin-baste and stitch pocket sections together, beginning at point where sections are joined to side seams, and continue around bottom and sides to waistline edge of pocket. 5. Pin pocket top to waistline of garment front so it will be caught permanently in waistline seam. Bar Tack on Side-Seam Pocket In sports clothes, the side seam pocket should be strengthened at the upper and lower ends of opening by working a bar tack across them. 1. Take several stitches ¼” long across seam at lower end of pocket opening, using buttonhole twist or embroidery thread to match garment. 2. Cover ¼£ stitches with tiny overhand stitches close together, catching a few threads of the fabric at the same time. Work across ends with tiny overhand stitches. 3. Repeat at top of pocket after waistband has been applied to garment. Bar Tack (1)- Several stitches of thread are being sewed across the end of the opening. Bar Tack (2)- These stitches are now being covered with overhand stitches close together, picking up a few threads of the fabric at the same time. Bar Tack (3)- The ends have been finished with small bar tacks. Placket Insert zipper as directed for side zipper. Waistband Construct and apply waistband, using either top-stitched application given for the gathered skirt or the directions of the skirt which feature the invisible stitching and the longer underlap, as well as interfacing. The latter waistband may be top stitched along all edges for a more tailored appearance if desired. Hem for Trousers Women‟s and girls‟ slacks are usually finished with a plain hem rather than cuffs. Finish cut edge by edge stitching or apply seam tape; turn up hem at desired length, press fold, pin-baste, and slip stitch to garment. Be sure the edge is even before edge stitching or applying seam tape. Fasteners Attach hook-and-eye fasteners to waistband as directed for skirt. Pressing Give trousers a final pressing, matching inside and outside leg seams to locate position for front and back creases. 328 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Learning Outcome 2 Apply Finishing Touches on Ladies Trousers Objectives At the end of this lesson, you are expected to: 1. perform the methods and procedures on how to apply finishing touches on ladies trousers; and 2. sew the parts and embellishments on ladies trousers properly. Trousers need not be over-decorated with embellishment except for those pants worn during presentations or shows. There are just some embellishments and decorations which we can employ in our trousers. Trousers are formal wear that is why, there is no need to put many decorations in it. Types of Fasteners Buttons Buttons are one of the oldest forms of fastening. They come in many shapes and sizes, and can be made from a variety of materials including shell, bone, plastic, nylon, and metal. Buttons are sewn to the fabric either through holes on their face, or through a hole in stalk called a shank, which is on the back. Buttons are normally sewn on by hand, although a two-hole button can be sewn on by machine. Snap Fastener Snap Fasteners are used where a lightweight fastening is needed. They are available in a black or silver metal finish in a range of sizes. Small, clear plastic snaps may be used on fine fabrics. There are many types of nonsew snap with decorative metal or colored caps, which are attached using a special tool or a hammer. Hook and Eye Hooks are versatile fasteners that can fit into both straight bars and round eyes, and are strong enough not to open under stress. They are made in different sizes and strengths, and are frequently used on waistbands and at the top of the zipper openings. Sew-on snap fasteners are available in range of sizes, and non-sew snaps provide an alternative to buttonholes on casual garments. Hook-and-loop fasteners, usually cut 329 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ from a strip, are easy to open and close and are often used for garment detail such as cuffs, and in home furnishings. Zipper The zipper is probably the most used of all fastenings. There are many types available, in variety of lengths , colors, and materials, but they all fall into one of five categories: skirt or pant zippers, metal or jeans zippers, invisible zippers, open-ended zippers, and decorative zippers. Finishing Touches Let’s Do it! 1. Hemming Stitches Machine Sewing: Load your bobbin and top spool with the same color of thread. The thread should match as closely as possible with the original thread used on the pants. For a simple hem with straight stitching, set your machine for a small to medium straight stitch. In this picture, notice that the stitch width lever is set to the extreme left position. Fold the hem so that the cut edge is folded in toward the crease. Begin stitching 1/8 inch from the top of the hem and go all the way round. Straight stitching is used for jeans or for the lining of dress pants. The seam side of pant linings normally faces the seam side of the pants so that 330 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ the interior and the exterior of the pants both present the finished side. Pant linings are usually sewn with the pants right side out, but with the pant leg gathered toward the crotch so that the lining extends enough for sewing. For blind stitching, set the stitch width and the stitch pattern to the correct position. Here, the stitch width lever has been set to the middle position. A machine blind stitch consists of three or four straight stitches that sew the inside hem followed by a sideway stitch that attaches the inside hem to the pant leg by just a thread. This picture shows a sewing machine that uses a cam and dial to select the sewing pattern. For cam number 1, the dial has to be set at position B to select the blind stitch which is illustrated in gray color on the side of the machine under the letter B. Read the instruction manual for your own sewing machine to determine how to select the stitch pattern. 331 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Sewing the blind hem stitch. Working with the pants inside out, fold the hem so that the cut edge is folded toward the crease as for the straight hem, but then fold the final edge toward inside of the cuff leaving 1/8 inch to start sewing. The photograph illustrated above is the technique for folding the material. Folding the material for a blind hem stitch. This photograph shows how the cut end of the pants cuff is folded toward the inside of the ironed crease, the pant leg is folded once more leaving a 1/8 inch offset for machine blind stitching. For some materials, it is necessary to iron the fold toward the inside of the previously ironed crease to make the sewing easier and more accurate. 332 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ The material is in position for blind stitching. Notice that the inner seam is offset about 1/8 inch to the right of the fold in the pant leg. 1. Attaching Fasteners 333 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Attaching Hook-and-Eye Fastener Hook and looped eye 1. Stitch around each hole on the hook, without stitching through to the right side.Take two or three stitches over the neck of the hook to secure it. Finish with backstitches near the hook. 334 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 2. Position the eye so that the loop projects over the fabric edge by about 1/8 in (3mm). Fasten the thread securely. Stitch around each hole. Stitch over each side of the eye inside the fabric. 3. Fasten the hook and eye. The finished edges of the two parts of the garment should just meet and lie flat, so that no part of the hook or eye is visible on the right side of the garment. Hook and Straight Eye 1. Stitch the hook to the wrong side of the overlapping edge, with their ends about 1/8 in (3mm) in from the edge. Close up the opening, and mark the positions of the bears with pins on the right side of the underlap. 2. Stitch around the first hole on a bar. Slip the needle between the fabric layers, along to the second hole, and stitch around it. Slip the needle to the second bar position and stitch. Finishh by fastening the thread securely. Lapped Zipper- Skirt zipper in a skirt or a dress is usually put in by means of a lapped technique or a centered zipper technique. For both of these techniques, you will require the zipper foot on the sewing machine. A lapped features one side on the seam- the left-hand side- covering the teeth of the zipper to conceal them. 1. Sew the seam, leaving enough if 335 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ the seam open to accommodate the zipper. 2. Secure the end of the stitches. 3. Insert the right-hand side of the zipper first. Fold back the right-hand seam allowance by 1/2 in (1.3cm). This folded edge is not in line with the seam. 4. Place the folded edge against the zipper teeth. Baste. 5. Using the zipper foot, sew along the baste line to secure the zipper tape to the fabric. Sew from the bottom of the zipper to the top. 6.Fold back the left-hand seam allowance by 5/6in (1.5cm) and press. Place the folded edge over the sewn line of the other side. Pin and then hand baste along foldline. 336 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 7. Starting at the bottom of the zipper, sew across from the center seamline and then up the side of the zipper. The finished zipper should have the teeth covered by the fabric. Evaluation of Finished Ladies’ Trousers Evaluation of trousers may be based on the following criteria. Perfect Student‟s Teacher‟s Score Score Score Indicators 1.Materials used (20 points) a. Is the cloth soft and absorbent enough to provide comfort for which it is intended to be used? Is it colorfast? b. Is the fabric design suitable for pajama trousers? c. Do the thread and buttons match the color of the fabric? d. Was the material preshrunk? 2.Worksmanship (30 points) a. Are the stitches straight or neatly curved in accordance with the edges on which they are applied? b. Are the seams flat and straight? c. Are the trouser legs of equal lengths? d. Is the cord flat and smooth? 3.Fit (30 points) a. Does the waistline fit comfortably? b. Is the hip loose enough to permit ease in movement? c. Is the length adequate? 4.General appearance (20 points) a. Do the pajama trousers look neat and feel comfortable when worn? 337 5 5 5 5 8 8 7 7 10 10 10 20 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ TOTAL POINTS 100 Enhancement activity Activity 1. Choose a classmate-partner and take each other‟s measurements for pajama trousers. 2. Prepare a plan for the project. 3. Draft the patterns. 4. Assemble the parts of the pajama trousers. 5. Present your work to your partner and the class for evaluation. Labeling of Garments Labels are not functional component of a garment but essential for many reasons. 7 common labels those are found in garments are Brand label, Size label, Care label, Flag label, Manufacturer code, Line mark label and special label. Each label has specific purpose and carry some kind of information. 8. Brand or Main Label – indicates the brand name or brand logo of company where the garment comes from. Customers who like branded items simply look at the label and they easily pick and buy the items. A brand label should have the product quality. Examples of brand labels are Levis, Lee, Tommy Hilfiger for t-shirts, Adidas for shoes, Zara for dresses, and many more. 9. Size Label- has the specific measurements of human body such as S for small, M for medium, L for large or XL for extra large. Buyers would prefer to look at to the size label to see which one fits his/her size. 10. Care Label – includes wash care and ironing instructions. This is attached at side seam to warn wearers on what to do during washing, drying or ironing to maintain the color, design, shrinkage ability and composition that makes up the garment. Example, 60% cotton, 40% polyester. This also includes the country where it is made like “Made in the Philippines”, “Made in USA”, etc. 11. Flag Label- is a small label attached at side seam with printed brand logo. Some garments especially T-shirts have flag label embroidered or printed at the upper right side of the garment as design feature. 12. Manufacturer Label -includes manufacturer‟s code for the buyers who wants to order the items from different parts of the world. 338 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 13. Batch Mark Label – indicates which sewing line or batch had made the particular garment. Only few garment manufacturers add this label for the internal quality inspection process and rectify which line had made the garment and which checker had check the same. This is normally attached at side seam under wash care label. 14. Special Label – is normally attached to draw customer‟s attention at the time of purchase. Examples are 100% cotton, Organic Cotton, etc. FUNCTIONS OF PACKAGING 1. Protects the Products and Consumer – good packaging is designed to protect the product. For example, packages should be designed to withstand humidity, punture, and other types of damage. 2. Contains the Product – containers make products easy to carry and keep them separately. 3. Identity of the Product – a package would be less useful if it do not identify its contents. Usually, the contents are identified by the label on the package. However, using a special design or color on the package helps customers identify the contents. 4. Promotes the Product – the package is the natural place for promotion. It is part of the product which is most visible to the customer. 5, Makes the Product Easy to Use – cartons with spouts for easy pouring, boxes with zip-strip openings, butter wrappers with measurement marked on them are examples of the conveniences offered by packaging. In each of these examples, the package is designed with the user‟s needs in mind. Packaging Materials 1. Paper and cardboard – are among the most widely used packaging materials. Paper is inexpensive, lightweight, fairly strong, and easy to print on. Cardboard has all the advantages of paper and is heavier and stronger. 2. Wood and glass – are traditional materials for the sturdier or more specialized forms of packaging. Wood makes sturdy shipping crates, which are reused many times. Glass is used mainly to hold liquids or products containing liquids. It doesn‟t leak and has no smell. 3. Plastic – is used in many forms for packaging. It is shaped into jars and bottles; it is molded into boxes, baskets, and trays; it is processed into sheets for packaging toys, bed linens, small articles of clothing and a wide variety of food products. 4. Metal – is a material that has long been used to pack liquids and food products. The most commonly used metal container is the can. At one time, all 339 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ cans were made of steel with a tin plating. Today, aluminum cans are popular, as containers for soft drinks. 5. Metallic foil – extremely thin sheet metal, is widely used in commercial packaging. It can be folded and wrapped almost like paper and yet has the strength and moisture resistance of metal. Packaging Forms Some of the most familiar forms of packaging are boxes and crates, bottles and jars, and bags and wrappers. 1. Skin packaging – plastic film is molded tightly over a product mounted on a card. 2. Blister packaging – a plastic bubble is preformed in a plastic sheet. The product is placed on a card, and the bubble is placed over it. 3. Aerosol or Dump dispenser – a container that releases its contents in spray or foam when a valve is pressed. 4. Flexible pouch – is a package formed from plastic film or paper that is filled with the product and sealed by heat process. 5. Shrink wrap – is a package made by placing clear film around the product itself. 6. Multipack – is a special package design that groups two or more packaged products into a unit for easier display, carry home utility, or user convenience. 7. Aseptic packaging - combines many good qualities of cardboard, metal and glass. These containers are called “aseptic” because they keep germs out of foods that need no refrigeration. 8. Dispensing Closure - is a cap, lid, or seal through which the contents of the container can be dispensed in a controlled manner. Procedure in Packing Procedure in packaging finished garments Finishing Department: Check points in finishing department consists 1. Initial finishing inspection: checking done prior to pressing of the garment at finishing room is known as initial finishing. 2. Final finishing Inspection: After pressing garments are again checked and passed for tagging and packing. 3. Internal final audit: After garments are packed up to certain quantity, quality control team, do audit of packed garments. This process is carried out to ensure that before handing over shipment to buyer. 340 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Review of Learning Outcome Identification. Directions: Identify the following that is being described. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. This label includes wash care and ironing instruction. 2. A small label attached outside the side seam and are normally made of brand logos and it is primarily used as design features. 3. Packaging form in which the plastic film is molded tightly over a product mounted on a card. 4. Packaging form in which a container releases its contents in spray or foam when a valve is pressed. 5. Is a material that has long been used to package liquids and food products and one of its example is can. Let’s See How Much You Learned Post Assessment 4 A.True or False Directions: Read the statements carefully. Write T if the statement is true and F if the statement is false. 1. Flag label is a small label attached at outside side seam. 2. Snap Fasteners are used where a lightweight fastening is needed. 3. Machine blind stitch consists of ten to eleven straight stitches that sew the inside hem followed by a sideway stitch that attaches the inside hem to the pant leg by a zipper. 4. Skirt zipper in a skirt or a dress is usually put in by means of a lapped technique or a centered zipper technique. 5. Care Label is placed as a design feature. 6. One of the functions of packaging is that it is used to multiply the quantity of product. 7. Rubber is one of the materials used in packaging products. 8. Wood and glass are traditional materials for the sturdier or more specialized forms such as for shipping crates or holding liquids. 9. Initial finishing inspection is done after pressing garments and passed for tagging and packing. 10. Fiber contents are also included in care labels. 341 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ B.Multiple Choice Directions: Read the statements carefully, choose the letter of the correct answer and write it on the space provided. 1. This label includes wash care and ironing instruction. a. Flag Label c. Black label b. Care Label d.Labeled 2. It is one of the packaging forms wherein the plastic film is molded tightly over a product mounted on a card. a. Skin packaging c. Aerosol b. Blister packaging d. Dump dispenser 3. What is the commonly used stitching for jeans or for the lining of dress pants? a. Diagonal Stitching c. Long stitching b. Short stitching d. Straight Stitching 4. It defines a specific set of measurements of human body. a. Main Label c. Size label b. Packaging Label d. care label 5. What packaging function is implied on promoting a product? a. Easy to use function c. Promotes the product b. Identifies the product d. protects the product 6. After garments are packed up to certain quantity, what does the quality control team do? a. Internal final auditing c. Final finishing inspection b. Initial auditing d. external auditing 7. The following are types of fasteners except: a. Buttons c. Hook and Eye b. Zipper d. clip 8. A label that indicates which sewing line or batch had made the particular garment. a. Batch Mark Label c. Manufacturer Label b. Flag Label d. Care Label 9. Which of the following is not a good characteristic of paper and cardboard packaging materials? a. Inexpensive c. Easy to print on b. Light weight d. hydrophilic 10. At what label the fiber contents are placed? a. Care Label c. Size Label b. Flag Label d. Manufacture label C. Identification Directions: Read the statements carefully. Write the answer on the space provided. __________1. It is a special package made by placing clear film around the product itself. __________2. It is a cap, lid, or seal through which the contents of the container can be dispensed in a controlled manner. __________3. It is a packaging material that has long been used to package 342 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ liquids and food products and commonly used in a form of can. __________4. It is mainly used to package and hold liquids or products containing liquids. __________5. Checking done prior to pressing of the garment at finishing room is known as what? __________6. It is a container that releases its contents in spray or foam when a valve is pressed. __________7. It is a function of packaging wherein it makes the product easy to carry and keep them separated. __________8. Is a package formed from plastic film or paper that is filled with the product and sealed by heat process. __________9. In lapped zipper, when the zipper is finished the teeth should be covered by what? __________10. It is used to indicate brand name or brand logo of the company that sources and sells clothes. SUMMATIVE ASSESSMENT A.True or False: Directions: Read the statements carefully. Write T if the statement is true and F if it is false. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. _______1. Good outfit should have the proportion, balance and gloomy appearance. _______2. Proportion in design involves the relationship of one part to another. _______3. Blouse is a cloth or textile used in construction of different garments. _______4. Headline is the edge of the garment opening surrounding the neck. _______5. Interfacings are special fabrics used to weaken or stiffen specific parts of a garment, such as collar, cuffs, facing and pocket tops. _______6. Shoulder measurement is taken from left to right shoulder tip bone. _______7. In pressing techniques, never press on zipper coils. _______8. Snap fasteners are fasteners which can be simply press or snap together and are easily pulled apart. _______9. For diamond-shaped bodies, straight leg is the best trouser to wear. _______10. Country origin is placed on Flag Label. 343 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ B. Multiple choice: Directions: Read the statements carefully, choose the letter of the correct answer and write it on the space provided. 1. It is a natural fiber that is derived from the stem of the flax plant. a. Denim c. Polyester b. Linen d. poplin 2. It is determining the quality and suitability of the fabric wherein you crumple a corner of the fabric; release it, and note the degree of wrinkling in it. a. Test for wrinkle resistant c. Test by thumb b. Test for strain d. test by pin. 3. A double pleat having two upper folds facing in opposite directions and two under folds pressed toward each other. a. Gored skirt c. Pleated skirt b. Knife pleat skirt d. A Box pleat skirt 4. A kind of fabric fold wherein the fabric is folded lengthwise with the raw edges meeting at the center. a. Lengthwise centrefold c. Off-center fold b. Off-center lengthwise fold d. center fold 5. This kind of blouse features a neck collar and buttons attached on the front of the garment. a. Surplice Wrap Blouse c. Button-down Blouse b. Casual Blouse d. Peasant Blouse 6. It is a type of fabric which is very similar to cotton voile but is slightly crisper. a. Linen c. Cotton Lawn b. Silk d. Rayon Challis 7. A type of pocket which is inserted into the garment with the opening strengthened by an added welt, which is the only section visible when completed. a. Welt pocket c. Shear pocket b. Patch pocket d. clause pocket 8. Measurement taken from the shoulder neck tip bone down to the apex point. a. Sleeve length c. Girth length b. Apex height d. Waist measurement 9. This type of zipper looks different from other zippers because the teeth are on the reverse and nothing except the pull is seen on the front. a. Hidden zipper c. Invisible zipper b. Cloaking zipper d. hiding zipper 10. Is a type of packaging form wherein a plastic bubble is preformed in a plastic sheet. a. Bubble package c. Blister packaging b. Skin packaging d. foam packaging 344 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ C. Identification Directions: Read the statements carefully. Write the answer on the space provided. _______1. These are generally loose in fitting and are best suited to lean women and goes well with tank tops and trendy blouses. These are made up of wrinkle free fabric. _______2. These pockets are external and can be decorative. _______3. Is a soft, lightweight fabric which works well for coldertemperature shirts and other cloth? _______4. This solid line with arrows that point to the pattern piece edge, indicates that the piece should be positioned along the fabric fold. _______5. A figure-hugging dress with a narrow tapering skirt. _______6. This is a medium-weight balanced plain woven fabric made from dyed cotton and its name was originated from the Malay adjective, genggang, meaning striped. _______7. It is a free hanging part of an outer garment or undergarment extending from the waist down to a particular length of the garment. _______8. A type of skirt that comes along with a suit. _______9. A flat collar with rounded ends that meet at the front. _______10. These are universal symbols and lines designed to help the sewer put the pattern pieces together quickly, easily and successfully. D. WORD HUNT Directions: Find the following words in the graph. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. A F A Z M S P A G F G U Y W D S X N D O S H G F S E Blouse Skirt Zipper Pants Sheath E G D C B F I D J H S D R R H H V V G U F K J A F A 6. Trousers 7. Kimono 8. Collar 9. Buttons 10. Neckline Y J F B J H Y G A K S N T Y J G N K J S H E A T H Y U S H M X F Q H Q S W R Y I D J L Z Q W J W A E V O O J B K V W E K E S R B Y J K U H B E R L R D T N U K R T F N R Y W T F N M K 345 L W T S C T I S Y G E C H H T O W X Y D X U J C X G G U N R Z U E D U K K Z F F E S T N S K I R T L D D D Q D U U S A E E W I F G S H G O A D S D P E N G G S C L Q D F D C P R E S C F B F W F G F T I T T D U J S D E M H H S Z Y Y F J LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ U Y T R E W Q T T I D S S J P Y U F D D S Y U Y G F F D U I T H G G F I W E J H H N J R W T J K V G Y Q K J E X U R E E K Y N D S R F D U M F Y E D T I C G T Y R R H E K U U D S G T I R J F D F W M R G H G D U O E F G F G G N T D J G J G O L L A R K J T H S V K B D E. Enumeration Directions: List down what is/are being asked in the following statements. 1-2 Types of Pockets 1.____________________ 2.____________________ 3-6 Give at least 3 packaging materials 3.____________________ 4.____________________ 5.____________________ 6.____________________ 7-10 Give at least kind of Blouse 7.____________________ 8.____________________ 9.____________________ 346 R J D B T C S LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Synthesis The government‟s advocacy to produce more productive individuals who can bring progress and better uplift the economic status not just for personal aspect but for the nation as a whole has been the education‟s main target especially the K to 12 program of the Department of Education. There is a demand for a better action to bring about quality education which will make our learners capable and ready to be in the field of global competition. This is why, this learner‟s material is made and it is designed for a Grade 10 student which will lead to National Certificate Level (NC) II in accordance with the training standards set by Technical Education and Skills Development Authority, (TESDA).This learner‟s material is a continuation of the Grade 9 Dressmaking which aims to bring a more comprehensive step by step details of the processes involved in garment production. It aims to enhance the skills, knowledge and attitude to perform tasks on dressmaking. It covers core competencies that a grade 10 Technology and Livelihood Education student ought to possess, namely: (1) produce ladies skirt; (2) produce ladies blouse and (3) produce ladies trousers. It also includes discussion on Personal Entrepreneurial Competencies (PECs), and Environment and Market (EM) to let the students explore more on opportunities for dressmaking as a career. This learner‟s material will help develop further the student‟s skills and knowledge in dressmaking. Advanced and several choices of different styles of skirts, blouses and trousers are provided for the teacher to select what is suitable to his/her learners. Procedures and techniques on how to assemble them are in step-by-step order for the learners to easily follow the sewing processes and techniques. Every lesson is in congruence with learning outcome to assess and evaluate the output as well as the performance of the students. This will help a lot to identify the progress and success in carrying out the objectives to every competency that a learner will accomplish. The success of the projects of the students will contribute a lot in the pursuit of aiming skilled and productive individuals in the field of dressmaking. 347 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ GLOSSARY . Apex. The highest point or tip of the bust. Apex of a Dart. The point at which the dart tapers to an end. Appliqué. These are decorations or embellishments on garments where different types of fabrics are cut and applied to the surface of one type of material to create a design or pattern. Armscye. The armhole of a garment. The armhole part of the pattern Balance. An element of fit. Equality in amount, weight, value, importance, or effect from side to side and from front to back. Bar Tack. A group of overlapping or very closely touching stitches used to reinforce small areas of a garment that might experience strain during normal wear. The tops of pockets are often bar-tacked on each side Basic Block Basic foundation pattern, made of tag board or plastic, that fits the target customer. (Standard size is usually an 8 for Misses sizes.) (See alsoSloper) Baste. A temporary method of holding two or more layers of fabric together by sewing by hand or machine with long stitches. Bias. Any direction that is not the lengthwise or crosswise grain of a woven fabric. Blind Hem. A machine stitched hem made by folding the hem back and using a machine (industrial) or stitch and foot (home machine) designed for producing a hem that does not show on the front. Cap sleeve. A type of sleeve that hits the upper arm between the elbow and the shoulder. Most often found in ladies' garments. Collar stand. The part of a two-piece collar that stands up next to the neck Cotton - A unicellular, natural fiber that grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. Fibers are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1 1/2 inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics. 348 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Dart- A stitched fold in the fabric that tapers from a seam to point to the fullest part of the body. Used to create shape and control fullness. Directional Fabrics- Fabrics having a one-way design or nap that requires all pattern pieces to be laid in a single direction Drafting- A method for making patterns on paper or on the computer using measurements. Ease-Fullness drawn up and stitched in place. Often used on a set-in sleeve, and at the apex of a bodice with princess lines. Edge Stitching- A row of machine stitching placed very close to a seam or garment edge. Stitching may be up to ¼" away from the edge. (see also topstitching.) Embroidery- Decorative stitching, made by hand or machine, used to form designs and patterns. Even Plaid- Plaid that contains a balanced arrangement of stripes on each side of the dominant horizontal and vertical bars of the plaid. Facing - An extra piece of fabric stitched into the inside of a garment for lining purposes or to add strength and structure. Finish - This generally refers to the processes used to make fabrics. Bleaching, mercerizing, steaming, singeing, and dyeing are all finishing processes. Flat Collar- A collar that lies flat, or nearly flat, against the garment all around the wearer's neck (e.g., sailor collar, Peter Pan collar). A flat collar has no collar stand. Full Cut - This is the size scale of the brand. For instance a size large in one brand may be bigger than the same size in a different brand. The larger cut may be said to be a full cut. Gathers- A series of small tucks of fabric, controlled and held in place by stitches and providing visible fullness. Grain- As an element of fit, refers to the need for lengthwise yarns to run parallel to the length of the body (a) at center front and back, (b) down the center of the arm from shoulder to elbow, and (c) down the center front of each pant leg; the crosswise yarns should run perpendicular to the length of the body at bust/chest, hip, and upper arm at bust/chest level. Grainline- A line drawn on the pattern to indicate the direction of pattern placement on the lengthwise grain of the fabric. 349 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Gore- Vertical division within a garment, usually tapered panels, narrower at the upper edge than the lower edge, seamed together to add fullness to a garment. May be functional or decorative. Grommet- Large, metal-edged unit which surrounds a hole in a garment. Many belts have grommets surrounding the belt hole. In-Seam Pocket- Pocket that is set into a seam of the garment, usually the side seam of skirts, pants, dresses, and coats. Interfacing- Supporting fabric usually hidden between the garment and its facing. Lends body, shape and reinforcement to limited areas of the garment such as button and buttonhole plackets, waistbands, collars, and cuffs. Interlining - Support material used to stabilize and support areas of the garment. Referred to as Interfacing in home and custom sewing. Kimono Sleeve- Sleeve cut as one with the body of the garment. Traditionally square in style. Lapels Part of the garment that rolls or folds back above the front closure on both sides; also called revers. Typically found on jackets and coats. Lining - A fabric that is used to cover the inside of a garment to provide a finished look. Generally, the lining is made of a smooth lustrous fabric. Marker- An arrangement of all the pattern pieces of the garment or garments to be cut from a single lay of fabric. A lay may consist of one or many layers of fabric which are all cut at once. Nap - A soft finish given to fabric where the fibers are raised or “fuzzy” by brushing. This produces a soft feel to the surface. Neck tape - An extra band of fabric material sewn over the seam between the body and the collar of a garment for a more comfortable feel. Non-woven fabrics - Fabric or other materials that are produced by interlocking or gluing fabrics together. Notches- Small cuts (slits or wedges) made in the edges of garment pieces to aid in correct assembly. On home-sewing patterns they are shown as dark triangles or diamonds. Off-Grain- Distorted fabric grain. Occurs when the filling yarns (weft) are not perpendicular to the selvage or fabric edge. When a garment is "off-grain," the true grain does not fall perpendicular to the floor. One-Way Design- A fabric with a design or motif that runs in a definite direction. These fabrics are said to have nap and patterns pieces must be cut 350 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ with the tops all facing the same direction. A print with trees all growing in the same direction, for example, is a one-way design. Pad Stitching- Tiny stitches made through the interfacing that barely catch the fashion fabric. Used to softly and subtly shape collars and lapels. Used in collars and hand-tailored jackets. Parallel- Extending in the same direction and at the same distance apart at every point. Patch Pocket- Pieces of fabric attached, like a patch, to the outside of the garment. Also called "applied pocket." Permeability - A textile characteristic which allows air, water, and water vapor to penetrate and pass through it. Pile- A plush or shaggy surface on a fabric resulting from loops or ends of yarn or fiber projecting above or below the surface of the fabric. Fabric with pile has nap. Placket- A finished opening in a garment section, e.g., at the cuff of a shirt or the neckline of a golf shirt. Pleat- Fold of fabric, folded back upon itself so that the pleat is comprised of three layers; occurs vertically only. Pleats may be partially stitched or pressed down. Kinds of pleats include: knife pleats, box pleats, inverted pleats, and accordion pleats. Preshrink- To wash or dry clean the fabric, according to the care instructions, prior to cutting out the pattern pieces to eliminate any potential shrinkage problems after assembly. Ply - The number of single yarns used to create ply yarn. It may also refer to the number of ply yarns used to make cord. Poplin - This is usually a 50% polyester and 50% cotton fabric in a poplin weave. Polyester - A synthetic fiber which is the most commonly used manufactured fiber worldwide. The fiber-forming substance in polyester is any longchain, synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of dihydric alcohol and terephthalic acid. Raglan sleeves - These are sleeves that are all cut from one piece from collar to cuff. Rayon - A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter. 351 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Rise- A measurement from crotch level to the top of the waistband: Also called crotch depth. Running stitch - Sequential stitching that goes in a single direction. Ruffle Decorative, gathered, or pleated strips of fabric or ribbon sewn to the garment. Seam Allowance- Narrow width between the seam line and the raw edge of the fabric. Seam allowances vary depending on where they occur on the garment and the manufacturers' specifications. Home sewing patterns generally have a 5/8" seam allowance except at hems. Commercial patterns generally use 1/4" to1/2". Seam Finish- Any technique used to neaten the edge of seams, prevent raveling, and improve garment durability and appearance. Seam sealing - Here the stitch line of a garment is made sealed by the application of seam tape or glue. Selvages- The narrow, finished edges of the fabric along both lengthwise sides of all uncut woven fabrics. Set-in sleeve - Sleeves made to go from the shoulder to the cuff. Shrinkage - This is the amount in size lost during the washing of cotton Most 100% cotton products have been pre-washed or pre-shrunk. After that a 4-5% shrinkage should be expected. Shirring- Permanent, parallel rows of gathers made in the body of the garment Staystitching- A row of stitching used to stabilize the edge of a single layer of fabric, typically on the bias. Rarely used in mass production. Taffetta - A basic plain weave that is sharp and smooth on both sides. It most often has a sheen. The warp and filling are of approximately same count. Taped seams - A strip of extra fabric stitched into the seam of a garment in order to prevent distortion or with outerwear, aid in waterproofing. Tear strength - The force necessary to tear a fabric, measured by the force necessary to start or continue a tear in a fabric. Texturing - This is the method of blowing a jet of air on a fiber to give it a rough, matte finish. This gives the fabric a feel of being thicker and heavier. Topstitching- Visible, decorative stitching done on the outside of the garment; also called accent stitching. 352 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ True Bias- Fabric direction that occurs at a 45-degree angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grains of woven fabrics. Has the highest degree of stretch of any woven fabric direction. Tuck- A stitched fold of fabric. Decorative tucks are stitched on the right side of the fabric. Tucks used to create shape are stitched on the inside to a designated point and released. Twill - A fabric weave which is made of 2 to 3 warp yarns or threads for each weft. The weave is a diagonal ribbing with many variations. Types are flannels; serges, gabardines, and surahs. Understitching- The stitching, used on enclosed seams, that attaches the seam to the facing and prevents the seam from rolling to the front side. Uneven Plaid- Plaid that varies in the arrangement of stripes on each side of the dominant horizontal and vertical bars of the plaid. Warp - The lengthwise yarn found in woven fabric. The warp is stronger as well as denser than the weft yarns, (crosswise yarns). Water repellent - Fabrics that have been treated with a finish which cause them to shed water and resist water penetration, but are still air-permeable. Water resistant - Fabric treated chemically to resist water or given a "waxcoating treatment" to make it repellent. Weft - The horizontal or crosswise threads that intersect the warp threads in woven fabrics. Wrinkle Free - A resistance to wrinkling created through the use of a variety of finishes and treatments. Yarn - A continuous strand of textile fibers created when a cluster of individual fibers are twisted together. These long yarns are used to create fabrics, either by knitting, plaiting, or weaving. Yoke- Horizontal division within a garment. Small, flat panel of fabric usually at shoulder, waist, or midriff. Often found on the back of Oxford-style shirts. 353 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ REFERENCES Avendano, Emma S., Rondilla, Aida h., et.al. Pinoy Entrepreneur. Diwa Scholastic Press Inc. 2007. Barclay, Marion S., Champion, Frances, et.al., Teen Guide to Homemaking. McGrw-Hill Company Company.1972. Cock, Valerie, Dressmaking Simplified, Third Edition. Blackwell Science Ltd., 1981. Cruz, Duran, et.al. Home Economics IV. Adriana Publishing Co., Inc. 2002. Draper, Wanda and Bailey, Annetta, Steps in Clothing Skills, Revised. Bennett Publishing Company, 1978. Francisco, Chic R., Complete Step-By-Step Guide to Pattern-Making and Sewing of Various Skirt Styles. Golden Ideas Publishing House, Inc., 2000. Lyle, Dorothy S. And Brinkley, Jeanne, Contemporary Clothing. Bennett Publishing Company, 1983. Smith, Alison, SEW Step by Step, DK Publishing, USA, 2011. Suratos, Cesar P., Technology and Livelihood Education III. St. Bernadette Publishing House Corporation, 2010. Tabbada, Epifania, Reyes, Elisa. Dressmaking II. Phoenix Publishing House, Inc. 2008. Wills, Lydia., The Complete Idiot‟s Guide. Pearson Education Asia, Pte. Ltd., Philippines, 2000. Guide Book Ref: Effective THE series IV, Cruz et al pp. 246-247 Manzarate, Freddie. Dressmaking Guide Book. National Book Store, 1983. Web Sites: http://www.primaoutlet.com/product_images/v/925/DSC_0837__23780.JPG https://encryptedtbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQhzuCvQIxjiCEET6nvrATagEDq0etKD-4FHafC0mmZq8EtTB6 http://EzineArticles.com/7647968 http://www.polyvore.com/cgi/img-thing?.out=jpg&size=l&tid=66191077 354 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ http://images.shopmadeinchina.com/p/135/10144135/VANCL-Erika-Plaid-Flannel-Shirt-Women-OrangeBlue_10144135.bak.jpg http://www.kaboodle.com/hi/img/2/0/0/6b/5/AAAAAkL4JQIAAAAAAGtb9A.jpg?v=1189004452000 http://images.qvc.com/is/image/a/94/a201894_e24.102?$uslarge$ http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f__6OYchQJU/T76gF4f48EI/AAAAAAAAFbE/D9NgGS2V00U/s1600/seven-islandsdouble-gauze-dress.jpg (https://fashion2fiber.osu.edu/index.cfm?fuseaction=do.faqShowAll) (https://fashion2fiber.osu.edu/index.cfm?fuseaction=do.faqShowAll) (https://fashion2fiber.osu.edu/index.cfm?fuseaction=do.faqShowAll) (https://fashion2fiber.osu.edu/index.cfm?fuseaction=do.faqShowAll) (https://fashion2fiber.osu.edu/index.cfm?fuseaction=do.faqShowAll) (http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-convertible-collar.htm) ((http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/collar) (https://fashion2fiber.osu.edu/index.cfm?fuseaction=do.faqShowAl l) (http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/kimono%20sleeve) (http://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/puff-sleeves) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sleeve) Reference: Pinoy Entrepreneurship Home Economics pp. 333-336 (http://www.polimoda.com/fileadmin/documenti/Glossari/Capponi/entry477.htm ) http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-mandarin-collar.htm http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/rolled+collar) (https://www.google.com.ph/search?q=description+of+flat+collar&rlz=1C2RNV H_enPH545PH545&biw=1366&bih=653&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=dsoWU4r4A 8T7rAe4kIGIDg&ved=0CAQQ_AU#q=peter+pan+collar+definition http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/list-of-trimmings-for-shirt-trouserand.html#ixzz343IuRPxW 355 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ KEY TO CORRECTION Diagnostic Assessment I. Multiple Choice 1. C 6. B 2. B 7. B 3. A 8. A 4. C 9. D 5. D 10. B III. Identification 1. horizontal line 2. form 3. yellow 4. light color 5. hue II. True or False 1. True 6. False 2. False 7. True 3. False 8. False 4. True 9. True 5. False 10. True 11. C 12. A 13. C 14. B 15. D IV. Matching Type 6. Intensity 1. a 7. Complimentary 2. c 8. primary colors 3. b 9. brilliant colors 4. e 10. Straight, tubular 5. d Shapes V. Identification A. 1. circular skirt 2. button skirt with slide pockets 3. gathered skirt 4. four-darted skirt 5. waistline facing 6. A-line skirt 7. A-line skirt B. 1. waistline measurement 2. lower hip measurement 3. Skirt length Pre-Test 1 A. Multiple Choice B. Sequencing 1. A 11. B II. 1. 1 2. C 12. D 2. 6 3. A 13. C 3. 3 4. D 14. A 4. 8 5. B 15. A 5. 2 6. C 16. B 6. 5 7. B 17. C 7. 9 8. A 18. A 8. 4 9. B 19. A 9. 10 10.A 20. A 10. 7 356 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 357 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Review of Lesson 1 1. Proportion 2 Balance 3. Emphasis 4. Line 5. Texture 6. Rhythm 7. Harmony 8. Intensity 9. Form 10. Color Review of Lesson 3 1. Full Circle Skirt 2. Tube-like Skirt/Straight Skirt 3. Ruffled Petticoat Skirt 4. Pleated Skirt 5. Gathered Skirt Review of Lesson 4 1. E 2. D 3. C 4. B 5. A Quarter II PRE/POST ASSESSMENT 2 A. Multiple Choice 1.C 2.D 3.B 4.A 5.D 6.B 7.A 8.D 9.A 10.C B. Filling the blanks 1. 1. Pattern 2. 3.5 3. 4 4. 9 358 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 5. 2.5 2. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Basic 2.5 C 3.5 E C. Identification 1. Flat Collar 2. Collar 3. Rolled Collar 4. Peter Pan Collar 5. Convertible Collar 6. Raglan 7. Dolman 8. Shoulder 9. Across Back 10. Blouse Length D. True or False 1. True 2. False 3. True 4. True 5. True 6. False 7. False E. 1. 2. 3. . 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Upper Arm Girth Lower Arm Girth Blouse Length. Apex Height APex Distance Second Hip Chest Across back F. Enumeration 46-50. (Any of the following) Cotton Voile Rayon Challis Double Gauze Knit Silk Chambray Cotton Lawn Linen Flannel 359 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ QUARTER III Pre/Post Assessment A. True or False: 1. T 2. T 3. F 4. T 5. F 6. F 7. F 8. T 9. F 10. T B. Multiple Choice 1. B 2. A 3. D 4. C 5. C 6. A 7. D 8. A 9. D 10. A C. Identification 1. Shrink wrap 2. Dispensing Closure 3. Metal 4. Glass 5. Initial Finishing Inspection 6. Aerosol or Dump Dispenser 7. Contains the product 8. Flexible pouch 9. Fabric 10. Brand or Main Label Summative Test: A. True or False 360 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 1. Harmony 2. T 3. Fabric 4. Neckline 5. Strengthen 6. T 7. T 8. T 9. Triangle-shaped 10. Care B. Multiple choice 1. A 2. B 3. D 4. B 5. C 6. C 7. A 8. B 9. C 10. C. C. Identification: 1. Palazzos 2. Patch pockets 3. Flannel 4. Place on fold line 5. Sheath 6. Gingham 7. Skirt 8. Suit Skirt 9. Peter pan Collar 10. Pattern Markings D. Enumeration: 1. Patch Pocket 2. Welt Pocket 3-6: Paper and cardboard; Wood and Glass; Plastic; Metal; Metallic Foil 7-10 361 LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ Word Hunt A F A Z M S P A G F G U Y U Y T R E W Q W D S X N D O S H G F S E T T I D S S J E G D C B F I D J H S D R P Y U F D D S R H H V V G U F K J A F A Y U Y G F F D Y J F B J H Y G A K S N T U I T H G G F Y J G N K J S H E A T H Y I W E J H H N U S H M X F Q H Q S W R Y J R W T J K V I D J L Z Q W J W A E V O G Y Q K J E X O J B K V W E K E S R B Y U R E E K Y N J K U H B E R L R D T N U D S R F D U M K R T F N R Y W T F N M K F Y E D T I C L W T S C T I S Y G E C H G T Y R R H E H T O W X Y D X U J C X G K U U D S G T G U N R Z U E D U K K Z F I R J F D F W F E S T N S K I R T L D D M R G H G D U D Q D U U S A E E W I F G O E F G F G G S H G O A D S D P E N G G N T D J G J G S C L Q D F D C P R E S C O L L A R K J F B F W F G F T I T T D U T H S V K B D Were you able to find the words? How fast did you do it? CONGRATULATIONS! If you found the words in less than five minutes only, meaning you‟re fantastic, inspired and is capable to prove the next level. 362 J S D E M H H S Z Y Y F J R J D B T C S LM-Dressmaking/ Grade 10 ____________________________________________________________________________ 363