0
VOLUME 1
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
WOMENSWEAR CLOTHING
PATTERN MAKING
FLAT-PATTERN DRAFTING
GLOSSARY
A
C
Adapt: adapting a pattern or garment to specific measurements.
Collar: piece of fabric fixed around the neck and on the neckline of
a garment.
Adjust: checking the proportions of each pattern piece and perfecting
the lines of each piece prior to assembly. This can be done once the
pieces have been made in muslin or beforehand on the flat-pattern
outline.
Assemble: putting together different pattern pieces with the help of
a sewing machine to create a whole.
Appliqué: placing a piece of fabric over another larger piece and
fixing them together.
Armhole: a curved line located at the front and back of the garment
body, allowing the insertion of a sleeve (sleeve cap).
Armscye: a curved line at the top of a sleeve, allowing it to be
assembled to the body of the garment (at armhole level).
B
Back rise (trousers): a curved line and measurement that starts at
centre back waist level and passes between the legs to the inside
leg seam.
Base patterns: is a working pattern using specific body measurements
(with or without ease) to which you can apply transformations to
make other patterns.
Basque: a piece of fabric fixed at waist level that descends more or
less to hip level.
Collar stand: part of the collar that is assembled between the
neckline and the actual collar, if the latter exists. It gives the collar
more structure and height.
Crotch: this curved line and important trouser measurement starts
on the centre front waist, passes between the legs and ends on the
centre back waist.
Crotch seam: a curved seam starting at centre front waist level and
passing between the legs to the inside leg seam.
Cuff: the bottom of a long sleeve ends in a cuff or turn-back cuff etc…
Curve : to shape a line by curving it.
Curved collar stand: a piece of fabric fixed at the base of a suit collar
to give it hold.
Cross grain: is the horizontal or weft grain direction of the fabric,
perpendicular to the warp grain.
Crossover or overlap value: adding enough value at centre front level
so that one side of the garment can cross over the other, usually to
enable buttoning.
D
Dart: V-shaped volume, sewn wrong side facing, allowing a garment
to be correctly fitted to the body.
Bend: curving a line.
Bevel: making small incisions (with the help of scissors) along the
length of a seam to trim it and reduce fabric bulk.
Bias: the bias grain of a fabric is at 45° to its warp and weft threads.
When cut at 45°, « true bias » is referred to. At other angles, « false
bias » is used.
Bias (V): to incline a line of construction or seam on a 45° angle to
obtain a true bias, or on other angles for a false bias.
Bisection: straight line that cuts an angle (eg : a dart) into two equal
parts.
Button: a piece made out of metal, wood, horn, mother-of-pearl,
plastic etc. for closing a garment.
Dart pivot: moving a dart by pivoting it from the base (changing its
direction).
Décolleté or low neckline: a low or open neckine giving more comfort
or expressing a certain style.
Drape: placing fabric in a harmonious way on the body, by forming
supple folds that are more or less regular. The fabric used is generally
cut on the true bias so that it hangs well.
E
Ease: when making a garment in woven fabric, it is vital to add some
allowance to the measurements of the person for whom the garment
is being made for comfort and movement.
Buttonhole: an opening in a garment made manually or by machine
through which a button passes.
Ease out: consists of stretching a fabric with the help of an iron and,
if necessary, a damp cloth, in order to pull it into a precise shape to
assemble with another piece.
Button loop: Small round of woven thread or fabric cut on the true
bias, fixed on the edge of a garment for a button to pass through.
Edging: straight or true bias band or trim placed on the edge(s) of
part of a garment.
88 || dp
dp studio
studio
G
Enlarging: increasing the volume of a construction by adding centimetres.
Excess value: excess fabric value between two notches that needs to
be eased out using an iron and even a damp cloth if the excess value
is significant. The larger the excess value, for example at the top of
a sleeve cap, the better the finished sleeve shape.
F
Facing: piece of fabric used to line a neckline, armhole, pocket
opening etc… to bring a clean and neat finish.
Facing or faced hem: an interior finish made in the same fabric as
the garment, running parallel to the garment edge. A skirt without a
waistband for example, will often be finished this way.
Fall (of a collar): represents the part of the collar that descends onto
the garment.
Flap: a lined piece of fabric placed over another part of a garment,
for example a pocket flap.
Flat area: a plane area or platitude of a few centimetres perpendicular
to the outline to help ensure symmetrical assembly. For example, the
armhole of a suit jacket is outlined on the front with a flat area of
2cm.
Flat-pattern drafting: 2D technique of making patterns for clothes
using paper.
Flare: adding enough material to widen the bottom of a skirt, dress,
trousers…
Folding: action of placing one part of the fabric over another part.
French curve: a plastic and curved ruler allowing the user to draw the
curve shapes represented on a pattern. A longer French curve is used
for trouser curves etc…
French curve: a plastic and curved ruler allowing the user to draw the
curve shapes of any outline. The one most often employed is french
curve n°21.
Frill: band of fabric added to a garment that can be gathered,
pleated, cut on the bias or straight grain, in the form of a circle or
spiral, creating a decorative effect.
Front facing: a piece of fabric attached to the front edge of a garment
before being folded to the wrong side to be hidden. It has exactly
the same shape as the garment edge and contours it perfectly. The
same fabric as the garment can be used or a lining fabric if the main
fabric is thick.
Fullness: represents the given (or extracted) volume of a pattern or
garment.
Gathers: Small puckers made by two parallel rows of running
stitches placed along the edge of the fabric to pull it in and create
extra volume.
Godet: a triangular piece of fabric inset between two pieces of fabric
or in-one with a seam to add volume and shape.
Gore: a typically trapezoid shaped piece or panel sewn to another
garment panel to create a flowing effect, often used in skirts.
Gusset: inset between two or more seams to add more room,
especially under the arm in the construction of a kimono sleeve. This
piece is usually diamond shaped and cut on the true bias.
Grading: a system allowing the increasing or decreasing of volume of
a garment in one size in order to create the other sizes as accurately
as possible. For example, from a size 10 a size 8, 12, 14 etc. can be
obtained.
H
Hang: the impression a garment gives when tried on the body. When
a garment is even, straight and balanced, it hangs well.
Hem: finishing the edge of a garment by folding and sewing it on the
wrong side of the fabric.
I
In-one: refers to a pattern pièce constructed as an intégral part of
another piece, without a seam, for example facing constructed in one
and the same pattern piece as the garment front.
Invisible buttoning tab: system of closing a garment composed of
buttonholes hidden under a band of added fabric or in-one with the
main fabric.
To inset: to insert one pattern piece into another larger piece by
curving in the larger one.
Inside leg: inside length of the leg measured from the front crotch to
the ground (or trouser hem).
L
Lining: generally made out of fine fabric, this interior layer covers
and finishes the inside of a garment, concealing its seams and giving
the garment extra hold.
M
Maintain: suppressing the excess value of a piece of fabric by
creating two gathered stitches to facilitate assembly with another
garment part.
dp studio | 9
0
VOLUME 1
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
WOMENSWEAR CLOTHING
PATTERN MAKING
FLAT-PATTERN DRAFTING
Mitered angle: seam made diagonally and on an angle to avoid
thickness where two flaps of fabric join. This method is to be avoided
if alterations might later be needed (lengthening of the garment, for
example) because a certain amount of fabric is suppressed, making
the lengthening of this part of the garment difficult.
N
Neckline: a curved opening made on upper bust level for the head
to pass through.
Nip: suppressing fabric on a garment, for example at waist level.
This suppression can be carried out by the creation of seams and/
or darts.
Piping: a narrow strip of fabric cut on the true bias and generally
placed on a pocket or buttonhole opening. Piping can be single or
double.
Pivoting darts: moving a dart by pivoting it from the base.
Pleat: a fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself, which is then
secured in place.
Plumb line: a vertical line at right angles with the floor, used for
determining the balance of a garment in relation to the length or
crosswise grain of the fabric. The latter grains are perpendicular and
parallel to the ground, respectively.
O
Pocket: opening incorporated in part of a garment, allowing the hand
to enter. A pocket can either be appliqué or inset. When inset, this
opening is prolonged by the pocket sack.
On fold: when cutting part of a pattern twice, for example a skirt
front, indicate ‘on fold’ for centre front so that the latter will be
placed on the fabric fold and cut twice, eradicating the need for a
centre front seam.
Press-stud or snap: a device for closing a garment made of two
pieces of metal that slot into eachother.
Outline: accurately reproducing the lines and contours of a pattern
on a piece of paper. This can be done :
• using tracing paper to follow the lines with a pencil
• using an awl to dot the pattern lines before pencilling over the
dotted indents.
Overlocking: assembling two pieces using an overlocking machine
that first cuts the excess fabric and then joins the two pieces by
an elastic overlock stitch. This method is used when working with
knitted fabric that requires elasticity, or when edging the different
pieces of a garment before assembly to avoid fraying.
P
Pair of scissors: a shearing tool for cutting fabric, consisting of two
mobile blades joined together by a hand piece.
Parallel: lines moving in the same direction that never touch. For
example, the bust spread line is parallel to centre front.
Pattern: a paper template comprising all the necessary pieces,
finishes, notches and seam allowances for making a garment. The
pattern outline allows the garment to be cut in fabric.
R
Rib: knitted rib band (elastic) used to finish the edge of a garment,
for example the end of a sleeve or the neckline of a jumper. Rib can
have more creative uses and be in-one with the main knitted piece.
Rib can also be added, in other words sewn to the main piece.
Rise: (trousers), the defined length on centre front between the waist
and the base of the front crotch. Also known as the front rise.
Rise: (collar) used also to express how high a collar rises.
Roll line: the line where a collar folds down and the lapel or upper
collar (suit, shawl etc) descends onto the garment.
S
Seam: allowing any part of a garment to be separated into several
pieces to bring creativity or improve a shape or volume.
Seam allowance value: an allowance of extra fabric that is added
parallel to the edge of each pattern piece to facilitate assembly and
when large enough, allow future alterations.
Selvedge: edge of the fabric formed by the ends of the weft threads.
Pattern-making: converting drawings into garment volumes, either
by flat-pattern drafting (2D) or draping (3D).
Pattern notches: notches are small indents used to facilitate the
joining of two pieces of fabric, optimize the assembly process and
obtain the desired volume. A notch is always perpendicular to the
seam.
Perpendicular: a straight line at right angles with another line. For
example, the large hip line is perpendicular to centre front.
10
10 || dp
dp studio
studio
Sheathed assembly: assemble two pieces of fabric, right sides
facing, leaving one seam open to turn back onto the right side.
Shift: rebalancing part of a garment or pattern by changing its
grainline so that it hangs better.
Shoulder pad: wadding cut in a semi circle and placed on the edge of
the shoulder and beginning of the armhole to bring structure to the
garment and lift the shoulder slope.
Z
Spread: a measurement that exists between two points, for example
the bust spread (between the two bust points).
Zip fastener: a fastening system composed of two parts that slot
into eachother with the help of a cursor that enables the closing or
opening of the zip.
Square (V): to adjust a marker point on an outline so as to set it at
right angles to another point or straighten it in the aim of assembling
two pièces accurately.
Standardization: a method to help ensure accurate assembly by
checking and adjusting seam allowance value through the placing
of notches at the end of each seam line. It is vital to check the length
of each seam, two by two, as they must be absolutely identical.
Straight grain: is the selvedge or warp grain direction of a fabric and
the one in which it is rolled out (lengthwise). A garment with a centre
front SG is cut parallel to the fabric selvedge.
Symmetry: the position of two identical parts located either side of
an axis. For example, the left front of a basic skirt can be found by
placing the right side on the left of centre front.
T
Tab: a piece of fabric that is added, usually to dissimulate a slit or opening.
Tape or tying ribbon: fine flat cotton tape, generally red or blue,
cut on the straight grain, allowing a pattern-maker to indicate the
major axis and construction lines on the dummy (bust, waist, large
hip lines etc). This tape can also be used for finding particular shapes
when making a mock-up on the dummy.
Turn-up: a band of fabric folded onto the right side of the garment,
creating a certain style.
U
Underwiring: metal or plastic strip to reinforce or give hold to
different parts of a garment, for example bustiers.
W
Warp: lengthwise grain of a woven fabric, parallel to the selvedge.
Fabric is very often cut on this grain.
Weft: horizontal grain of a woven fabric, perpendicular to the
selvedge. Fabric is less often cut on this grain.
Widen: increase the width of a dart or seam. Open up a neckline or
armhole.
Y
Yoke: a piece of fabric added to a garment and assembled with the
rest of the garment in a way that respects its style.
Yoke (trousers): a piece of fabric added below the back waistband of
a pair of trousers.
dp studio | 11
9. Tracing paper
1. Awl
24. Tracing
wheel
39. Carbon paper
33. Blue and red
tailor’s chalk
10. Compass
17. Pair of paper
scissors
34.Tailor’s ham
2. Hook
25. Pair of fabric
scissors
11. Metal tailor’s square 35x60cm
Graphite and colour
0,5 Criterium leads
35. Sleeve-board
18. Weights
26. Rubber
36. Powder tracer
12. Plastic calibrated 60° set square
with protractor
19. Sheets of white paper
65x100cm
27. Pattern notcher
37. A thimble
4. Criterium
28. 1m metallic ruler
13. Perforator
with a lever
5. Suit curves
20. Cardboard for patterns
21. A grading ruler
29. Pencil sharpener
6. Vary form curve
for trousers and skirts
40. Sellotape
14. Zenith Trapano
30. Muslin
22. 70cm
French curve
7. Adhesive
black tape
31. Tape measure
15. Drawing pins
38. A dummy
8. Red and blue tape
16. Box of pins
23. French curve
n°21
32.Kapok