The death zone is a portion of the everest above 8000 meters where there is scarcity of oxygen,
to the point where your body will begin to die as minutes pass by. Many climbers who
experienced being in the death zone described it similar to running on a treadmill and breathing
through a straw. Rescues at this extremely high altitude are seldom successful and at times can
be considered to be a suicidal endeavor. Yet, one man manages to do this extremely incredible
feat against all odds, that resulted in the preservation of three other lives. Anatoli Boukreev is a
Russian climbing guide working on Scott Fischer's Mountain Madness team who displayed
tremendous heroism on the night of May 10, 1996. He was a renowned and considerably one of
the most accomplished climbers on Everest during that year’s expedition. Nevertheless, his
most well known accomplishment is saving the lives of three of his fellow climbers: Tim Madsen,
Charlotte Fox, and Sandy Pittman. After summiting the everest, Boukreev immediately returned
to camp 4 to await the return of the climbers. However, with the devastating storm raging on, the
climbers became stranded on their way down to the camp. With no radio in his possession, he
had no way of knowing where the location of the missing climbers. Even then, Boukreev refused
to surrender. He collected supplies and extra oxygen, then ventured out courageously with
almost no visibility to try and find others. He would later describe this experience stating, “It is
like being without eyes, without being able to see, it was impossible to see”. Nonetheless, as
Jon quoted, “Boukreev recognized the futility of his efforts and returned to the tents” Almost
becoming lost himself on the way back and with no way of communication, Boukreev was only
able to wait and regain his strength. Some time later, other guides Neil Biedleman and Mike
Groom along with two more others reached the camp exhaustedly. They informed Boukreev
that there are more stranded not far from the camp. Without hesitation and knowing fully that his
life would be in danger, he nevertheless went out into the ferocious storm and battled the
elements a total of three times. With no one capable enough to assist him, he was able to bring
back Sandy Pittman, Charlotte Fox, and finally Tim Madsen all by himself. Unfortunately, he was
ultimately unable to save two of his fellow climbers, Yasuko Namba and Beck Weathers.
Additionally, the following day, Boukreev set out to make one last effort to save Scott. He was
able to locate Scotts’s body, but was only able to cover his face respectfully. However, despite
putting his own life at stake, as well as displaying undying resolve and will to save his fellow
climbers, many people argued, including Jon Krakuer, that Boukreev was only saving the lives
that he had already endangered. Throughout the novel, Jon at times criticized Boukreev
questionable actions and decisions that may have been a factor to the death of his companions.
Even though he is a guide and had received a significantly more pay from Scott to assist with
the clients, Boukreev seemed to be more individualistic and more focused on his own ascents.
This is exemplified in his decision to not bring bottled oxygen, which the novel described,
“without bottled oxygen he would be severely impaired-both mentally and physically-that he
would be unable to fulfill his professional duties.” Additionally, his decision to immediately go
back to camp 4 instead of waiting for other climbers, was also called into question. Jon believed
that this hasty decision resulted in the climbers unable to descend fast enough, consequently
leaving them stranded as the storm ravaged. Boukreev’s actions remained a controversial topic
within the mountain climbing community and left them with divided opinions. Others sided with
Jon and agree that Boukreev’s irresponsibility and reckless actions was indeed fatal to others.
On the other hand, some believed that his immediate descent into camp four left him with
enough crucial energy to save the others stranded. In spite of Jon’s criticisms, he respects
Boukreev immensely and recognizes the amazing feat he single-handedly accomplished. In the
end, Boukreev greatly displayed heroism by unconditionally risking his life and going out
rescuing the others left in the storm. His refusal to surrender and perseverance against a
formidable force of nature resulted in the preservation of the lives of three people. While some
of his decisions will continue to remain controversial, there is no denying the fact that Boukreev
would go down in history for exhibiting immeasurable act of heroism, in what many others
described to be, “one of the most amazing rescues in mountaineering history performed
single-handedly a few hours after climbing everest without oxygen.” Now, we would like to direct
your attention to….
one of the most amazing rescues in mountaineering history performed
single-handedly a few hours after climbing Everest without oxygen